Lonely Planet Vietnam

June and September. During peak season, fast 399M e ko n g D e lta GH eatTtiienng A r o u n d ferries run extra trips between Ha Tien and Phu limestone formations peppering the area, Quoc. which are home to a network of caves, some Car Ferry From Ha Tien, two car ferries run to of which have been turned into temples. Phu Quoc’s Da Chong port, in the northeast Plantations of pepper trees cling to the hill- part of the island. They depart daily at 8am and sides. On a clear day, Phu Quoc Island is eas- 8.20am from Ha Tien and 1pm from Phu Quoc ily visible to the west. (185,000/80,000/700,000d per passenger/ motorbike/car). Two more car ferries are due to The town itself has a languid charm, with be added to meet demand. crumbling colonial villas and a colourful Superdong (Ha Tien) (% 077-395 5933; www. riverside market. Already bolstered by the superdong.com.vn; per passenger 230,000d) number of Phu Quoc– or Cambodia-bound Fast ferry from Ha Tien departs at 7.30am, 8am travellers, visitor numbers are set to soar and 1.15pm (1½ hours), returning from Phu further with the proposed introduction of Quoc at 8.30am, 9.45am and 1pm. two more car ferries to Phu Quoc to join the Superdong (Rach Gia) (% 077-387 7742; two already in place. per passenger 250,000d) Departs Rach Gia at 8am, 9am, 12.40pm and 1pm (2½ hours). Oh yes, Ha Tien is on the map. And it’s Departures from Phu Quoc run at exactly the occupying a bigger portion of it thanks to same times. major expansion plans that will see the city spread southwest along the coast. Al- 88 Getting Around ready a precinct of markets and hotels has sprung up on land reclaimed from the river TO/FROM THE AIRPORT between the end of Phuong Thanh and the Expect to pay around 70,000d for a xe om to bridge. With development concentrated in Long Beach and 100,000d for a taxi. this neighbourhood, the charming coloni- al shopfronts around the old market have BICYCLE thankfully been left to decay in peace, but Bicycle rentals are available through most lodg- many changes are still afoot. ings from 70,000d per day. History MOTORBIKE For short xe om runs, 20,000d should be suffi- Ha Tien was a province of Cambodia un- cient. Otherwise, figure on around 60,000d for til 1708. In the face of attacks by the Thai, about 5km. From Duong Dong to Bai Vong will the Khmer-appointed governor, a Chinese cost you about 70,000d or so. Agree on a price immigrant named Mac Cuu, turned to the before setting off. Vietnamese for protection and assistance. Mac Cuu thereafter governed this area as a Motorbikes can be hired from most hotels and fiefdom under the protection of the Nguyen bungalows for around 120,000d (semi-­automatic) Lords. He was succeeded as ruler by his son, to 150,000d (automatic) per day. Inspect cheaper Mac Thien Tu. During the 18th century the bikes thoroughly before setting out. area was invaded and pillaged several times by the Thai. Rach Gia and the southern A good paved road now runs south from Duong tip of the Mekong Delta came under direct Dong to An Thoi, the southern tip of the island, Nguyen rule in 1798. and north as far as Cape Ganh Dau, the north- west tip of Phu Quoc. A two-lane highway con- During the American War the area nects Duong Dong with the car ferry port, but around Ha Tien was an important weapon-­ other roads tend to be dirt-and-gravel, potholed smuggling area for the Viet Cong, who and bumpy. transported guns from the deep harbour in Sihanoukville, Cambodia, to the delta in TAXI fishing boats. Mai Linh (% 077-397 9797) is a reliable opera- tor. It costs about 250,000d from Duong Dong During the Khmer Rouge regime, Cam- to the dock at Vong Beach. bodian forces repeatedly attacked Viet- namese territory and massacred thousands Ha Tien of civilians here. The entire populations of Ha Tien and nearby villages (in fact, tens of % 077 / POP 40,000 thousands of people) fled their homes. Also during this period, areas north of Ha Tien Ha Tien may be part of the Mekong Delta along the Cambodian border were sown but lying on the Gulf of Thailand it feels a with mines and booby traps, some of which world away from the rice fields and rivers have yet to be cleared. that typify the region. There are dramatic

400 e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 mile Ha Tien B CD A #æ Ð Mac Tu Hoang Phu Dung Pagoda (550m); 1 1 D Ha Tien #› (1km); Thach Dong Cave Pagoda (4km); Mui Nai (6km); Xa Xia–Prek Chak Border (6km); Chau Doc (112km) 1 ::: Ð Dong Da Ð Mac Cong Du :: Ð Tham Tuong Sanh ::: 2 Ð Bach Dang #Ú Ð To Chau :: ::: Ð Mac Cuu :: M e ko n g D e lta HS iagThitesn ::: #ò Ð Dong Ho Ð Chi Lang #ÿ 4 Ð Chi Lang 2 Ð Lam Son Ky Ð Phuong Thanh 2 Ð Nguyen Than Hien 3 Ha Tien Van Ð Nhat Tao D #› (1.2km) Ð Pham Ð Cau Cau Ð Lam Son 10 ü# Tich ì# 8 #ú Ð Vo Van Y Ð Lam 3 ÿ# Thien 7 #ú Ð9Trú#an Hau Van Quang ï# 11 Mac Ð Ferry Port (1.3km); New #› (1.5km); 3 Ngoc Tien Monastery (1.5km);D 6 ÿ# Hon Chong (32km); Ba Chuc (75km); Rach Gia (92km); Can Tho (194km) CD Ð Khu TT Thuong Mai 5#ÿ AB Ha Tien Am Bo Tat and the two Buddhist monks who founded the temples of this pagoda. æ Sights 1 Mac Cuu Family Tombs ...................... A1 To the left of the entrance is the Stele 2 Tam Bao Pagoda ................................. C1 of Hatred (Bia Cam Thu), shaped like a raised fist, which commemorates the Khmer ÿ Sleeping Rouge massacre of 130 people here on 14 3 Hai Van Hotel .......................................B2 March 1978. 4 Hai Yen Hotel .......................................D2 5 Long Chau Hotel ..................................B3 The wind here creates extraordinary 6 River Hotel............................................B3 sounds as it funnels through the grotto’s passageways. Openings in several branches ú Eating of the cave afford views of nearby Cambodia. 7 Floating Restaurant.............................B3 8 Night Market ........................................C2 Mac Cuu Family Tombs TOMB 9 Oasis Bar ..............................................C3 (Lang Mac Cuu, Nui Binh San; Ð Mac Cuu; h8am- û Drinking & Nightlife 5pm) F Not far from town are the Mac 10 Thuy Tien..............................................D2 Cuu Family Tombs, known locally as Nui Lang, the Hill of the Tombs. Mac Cuu, a ï Information Khmer-appointed 18th-century Chinese 11 Ha Tien Tourism ..................................C3 governor, and several dozen of his relatives are buried here in traditional Chinese tombs decorated with figures of dragons, phoenix- es, lions and guardians. At the bottom of the 1 Sights complex is an ornate shrine dedicated to the Mac family. oThach Dong Cave Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE Tam Bao Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE (Chua Thanh Van; h9am-5pm) Also known as (Sac Tu Tam Bao Tu; 328 Ð Phuong Thanh; hdawn- dusk) Founded by Mac Cuu in 1730, Tam Bao Chua Thanh Van, this Buddhist cave temple Pagoda is home to a community of Buddhist is 4km northeast of town. Scramble through the cave chambers to see the funerary tab- nuns. In front of the splendid, many-tiered pagoda is a statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat lets and altars to Ngoc Hoang, Quan The

401 (the Goddess of Mercy) standing on a lotus Ngoc Tien Monastery BUDDHIST TEMPLE blossom. Within the sanctuary, the largest statue on the dais represents A Di Da (the (Tinh Xa Ngoc Tien; hdawn-dusk) From Ha Buddha of the Past), made of painted brass. Tien’s riverfront, this Buddhist monastery is a striking sight – sprawling up the hill on the Outside in the tranquil grounds are the other side of the river. The buildings them- tombs of 16 monks. Near the pagoda is a selves are unremarkable but it’s worth mak- section of the city wall dating from the early ing the steep climb up here for the sweeping 18th century. views of the town and countryside. Follow your nose to the narrow road at its base. Phu Dung Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE The monastery is reached via a tiny (Phu Cu Am Tu; Ð Phu Dung; hdawn-dusk) This lane at number 48; look for the yellow pagoda was founded in the mid-18th cen- tury by Mac Thien Tich’s wife, Nguyen Thi sign topped with a swastika (symbolising eternity). Xuan. Her tomb and that of one of her fe- M e ko n g D e lta SHlaeTeipeinn g male servants are on the hillside behind the Dong Ho INLET pagoda. Inside the main hall of the pagoda, The name translates as East Lake, but Dong the most notable statue on the central dais is Ho is not a lake but an inlet of the sea. Dong a bronze Thich Ca Buddha from China. Ho is said to be most beautiful on nights To get here, continue north past the Mac when there is a full or almost-full moon. Cuu Tombs and take the first right onto Ð According to legend, on such nights fairies Phu Dung. dance here. Behind the main hall is a small temple, The ‘lake’ is just east of Ha Tien, bounded Dien Ngoc Hoang, dedicated to the Tao- to the east by a chain of granite hills known ist Jade Emperor. Head up the steep blue as the Ngu Ho (Five Tigers) and to the west stairs to the shrine. The figures inside are by the To Chan hills. of Ngoc Hoang (the Jade Emperor) flanked by Nam Tao, the Taoist God of the Southern 4 Sleeping Polar Star and the God of Happiness (on the right); and Bac Dao, the Taoist God of the Hai Yen Hotel HOTEL $ (%077-385 1580; www.kshaiyen.com; 15 Ð To Chau; Northern Polar Star and the God of Longevi- d/tr/q 300,000/370,000/450,000d; aW) Quite ty (on the left). The statues are made of papi- er mâché moulded over bamboo frames. elegantly presented at an empty Ha Tien intersection, this old-timer has a variety of GETTING TO CAMBODIA: HA TIEN TO KEP Getting to the border The Xa Xia/Prek Chak border crossing connects Ha Tien with Kep and Kampot on Cambodia’s south coast, making a trip to Cambodia from Phu Quoc via Ha Tien, or vice versa, that much easier. Several minibus companies leave Ha Tien for Cambodia at around 1pm, heading to Kep (US$9, one hour, 47km), Kampot (US$12, 1½ hours, 75km), Sihanoukville (US$15, four hours, 150km) and Phnom Penh (US$15, four hours, 180km). Bookings can be made through Ha Tien Tourism (p402), which can arrange the Cambodian visa too. It’s a really good idea to have US dollars on you when crossing into Cambodia; you can pay for the Cambodian visa in dong but they’ll get you with a really unfavourable exchange rate. On the Cambodian side, you can withdraw dollars from ATMs. In peak season, when minibuses get booked up way in advance, if you’re travelling light you can go all the way to Kep or Kampot on the back of a xe om (Oasis Bar, p402, can recommend reputable motorbike drivers). If you make an independent arrangement with a xe om driver, do not hand over the money until you reach your destination, or else you risk being abandoned at the border. At the border Cambodian visas officially cost US$30 at research time but be prepared to overpay by around US$5 at the border to join the ‘express line’, or be made to wait indefinitely. Moving on It’s possible to take a local bus to the border and then wait for a local bus on the Cambodian side, but since tourist minibuses cost only slightly more and are far comfier, most travellers opt for a through minibus ticket.

402 cold beer, plunger coffee, impartial travel decent accommodation from simple doubles information and for leafing through cop- to spacious rooms with balcony and river ies of the Evening Standard, the Observer views. and the Daily Mail newspapers. The menu runs to all-day, full-English breakfasts, filled Hai Van Hotel HOTEL $ baguettes, Greek salad, mango shakes and (%077-385 2872; www.khachsanhaivan.com; 55 Ɖ plenty more. Lam Son; s/d from 200,000/250,000d; aW) A favourite with tour groups and conventions, the Hai Van offers clean, smart (if somewhat Night Market MARKET $ featureless) rooms with polished floors. (Ɖ Lam Son; meals from 20,000d; h5-9pm) Some Some English spoken. of Ha Tien’s cheapest and best eats; the grilled seafood is particularly good. Long Chau Hotel HOTEL $ M e ko n g D e lta EHaatiTni egn& D ri n ki n g (%077-395 9189; 36-38 Ɖ Truong Sa; r 350,000d; aW) At this riverfront hotel rooms are Floating spacious, with views of the water from Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, VIETNAMESE $$ (Tran Hau Park; meals from 100,000d; h6am- the balconies. Tell the staff if you want 10pm) Smartly refurbished and sitting by your room cleaned as it won’t happen the River Hotel, this cheery boat is a good automatically. bet on weekends, when a team of chefs is on hand to feed the convention-attending River Hotel HOTEL $$$ masses. The rest of the week the results can (%077-395 5888; www.riverhotelvn.com; Binh San Ward, Ɖ Tran Ha; r/ste from 1,890,000/ be somewhat hit-and-miss. 4,200,000d; aWs) With contemporary, Thuy Tien CAFE spacious and stylish rooms, a towering and (%077-385 1828; Ð Dong Ho; h6am-9pm) Dot- sinuous outline and ample river views, Ha ted with fairy lights and glowing with Chi- Tien’s most glam hotel enjoys an optimum nese lanterns at night, this floating cafe is a position on the waterfront. The staff are breezy choice for a sundowner beer or a cafe helpful in spite of limited English, and the sua overlooking Dong Ho. place is practically deserted midweek, so discounts are negotiable. Karaoke ‘enter- 88 Information tainment’ takes place on the top floor. Oasis Bar is an unofficial wanderers’ hub that 5 Eating & Drinking most travellers funnel into when passing through Ha Tien. Owner Andy is happy to share Ha Tien’s speciality is an unusual variety local info and can help arrange tours of the area of coconut – containing no milk, but with and onward transport. delicate and delicious flesh – that can only Agribank (% 077-385 2055; 37 Ð Lam Son) be found in Cambodia and this part of Vi- Located one block from the waterfront and has etnam. Restaurants all around the Ha Tien an ATM. area serve up the coconut flesh in a glass Ha Tien Tourism (% 077-395 9598; Ð Tran with ice and sugar. Hau; h 8am-5pm) Handles transport book- ings, including boats to Phu Quoc and buses oOasis Bar INTERNATIONAL $ to Cambodia. Also arranges Cambodian visas (%077-370 1553; www.oasisbarhatien.com; Ɖ Tran (US$35). Look for the neon ‘food & drink’ Hau; meals 60,000-150,000d; h9am-9pm; W) sign. Run by Ha Tien’s only resident Western ex- Main Post Office (% 077-385 2190; 3 Ð To pat and his Vietnamese wife, this friendly Chau; h7am-5pm) little restaurant-bar is a great spot for a BUSES FROM HA TIEN DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY DISTANCE Ca Mau 160,000 5-6 several daily 219km Can Tho 180,000 3½ 6 daily 194km Chau Doc 130,000-200,000 3½-4 3 daily 112km HCMC 200,000 9-10 10 daily 317km Rach Gia 60,000 2¼ every 30min 92km

403 PIRATE ISLAND M e ko n g D e lta AGre ottuinndg HTah eTri een& Away This small speck of an island, its hill covered in lush vegetation, has a sordid 500-year history as a pirate haven, which only came to an end during the reunification in 1975. Today the inhabitants make their living from the sea. A paved motorbike trail circles the island; you can hike up to the hill temple and visit the tranquil beach, and if you come with a Vietnamese speaker, you can arrange to go out with the fishermen. Besides the 100 or so inhabitants who reside in the four small, scrappy fishing vil- lages, there’s an army base on top of the hill, keeping a vigilant eye out for potential invaders from Cambodia. Rumours of pirate treasure have circulated for years, and in 1983 the army promptly expelled from Vietnam a couple of foreign treasure-seekers who arrived illegally by boat from Cambodia, equipped with metal detectors. There’s limited electricity until 10pm, after which the only light comes from candles and boat lights. Going out on a fishing boat at night, you may see the sparkly shapes of fish shoot through the water, thanks to the phosphorescence phenomenon. It’s reachable either by green cargo boat (40,000d, 1½ hours) that departs Ha Tien at 2.30pm, returning from the island at 9am, or by passenger boat (100,000d, 1¼ hours), departing Ha Tien at 9am and returning at 4pm. The passenger boat sometimes doesn’t run; otherwise it’s possible to borrow a bicycle in Ha Tien and pop over for the day. If you’d like to stay the night, there are a couple of very simple homestays (60,000d per room) and if you buy some fish or crabs from the fishermen, your hosts can cook you dinner. 88 Getting There & Away canopy of lofty palms. On top is a lighthouse and there are beaches on both sides of the BOAT peninsula, lined with simple restaurants and Ferries (p398) stop across the river from the guesthouses. town. A xe om here should set you back around BUS 60,000d. Trang Ngoc Phat (www.taxihatien.vn) runs the most comfortable buses to Rach Gia. Hon Giang & Nghe Islands Ha Tien Bus Station (Ben Xe Ha Tien; Hwy 80) The bus station is due to relocate to larger, There are many islands along this coast and purpose-b­ uilt facilties 1.5km south of the bridge some locals make a living gathering swiftlet by early 2016. Buses for HCMC depart either nests (the most important ingredient of that between 7am and 10am or 6pm and 10pm. famous Chinese delicacy, bird’s-nest soup) from their rocky cliffs. About 15km from CAR & MOTORBIKE Ha Tien and accessible by small boat, Hon The Ha Tien–Chau Doc road is narrow but in- Giang Island has a lovely, secluded beach. teresting and with light traffic, following a canal along the border. As you approach Ha Tien, the Nghe Island, near Hon Chong, is a favour- land turns into a mangrove forest that is infertile ite pilgrimage spot for Buddhists. The island and almost uninhabited. The drive takes about contains a cave pagoda (Chua Hang) next three hours, and it’s possible to visit Ba Chuc to a large statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat, and Tuc Dup en route. which faces out to sea. Around Ha Tien Hon Chong Mui Nai You’ll pass Khmer pagodas, Cao Dai tem- ples, grandiose churches and karst outcrops The best of the Gulf of Thailand beaches, en route to Hon Chong, home to stone grot- Mui Nai (Stag’s Head Peninsula; admission per- toes, cave shrines and what would be the son/car 2500/10,000d) is 8km west of Ha Tien. nicest stretch of sand on the delta’s main- The water is incredibly warm and becalmed, land if it weren’t for the dirty water, pol- great for bathing and diving. The bay spills luted by discharge from the nearby cement over with stalls selling loud-coloured water factory. rings, swimsuits and beach balls, beneath a After passing through the scrappy village, the road rounds a headland and follows

M e ko n g D e lta AGre ottuinndg HTah eTri een& Away404Dollar Hill’, in reference to the amount of Duong Beach (Bai Duong; per person 5000d) money the Americans sank into securing it. for 3km. The entrance fee is charged only at the far end of the beach, where there There isn’t much to see, but you’ll pass are food stalls, karaoke bars, and pigs and near it if you’re taking the back road through chickens wandering around. From the beach Ba Chuc to Chau Doc. you can see rocky remnants of Father & Son Isle (Hon Phu Tu), several hundred me- Ba Chuc tres offshore. It was said to be shaped like a father embracing his son, but the father was Ba Chuc’s memorial (h8am-5pm) stands as washed away in 2006. Boats can be hired at a ghastly reminder of the horrors perpetrat- the shore to row out for a closer look at the ed by the Khmer Rouge. Between 18 April orphan remains. and 30 April 1978, the Khmer Rouge killed You need to walk through the market 3157 villagers here; only two survived. at the far end of Duong Beach to reach the cave pagoda (Chua Hang; hdawn-dusk), The memorial consists of two parts: the which is set against the base of a stony ossuary housing the skulls and bones of headland. The entry to the cave containing more than 1100 victims, and the memori- Hai Son Tu (Sea Mountain Temple) is inside al room next door, displaying wrenching the pagoda. Visitors light incense and offer post-massacre photos. prayers here before entering the cool grotto itself, whose entrance is located behind the Between 1975 and 1978 Khmer Rouge altar. Inside are statues of Sakyamuni and soldiers regularly crossed the border into Quan The Am Bo Tat, back-lit by neon man- Vietnam and slaughtered innocent civilians. dalas, as well as small cabinets enclosing Over the border, things were even worse, green glass Buddhas. Mind your head on the where nearly two million Cambodians were low-hanging rock roof of the cave leading killed during the period of Pol Pot’s Demo- to the beach. The pagoda is swamped with cratic Kampuchea regime. pilgrims 15 days before and one month after Tet, while another deluge of worshippers ar- In the ossuary, resembling either an rives in March and April. onion or a lotus flower bud (depending on Casual seafood-cooking shacks line the your outlook), the skulls and bones are di- beach. Hon Chong is easily visited as a day vided by age group (including the minute trip from Ha Tien, but should you wish to skulls of toddlers and babies) and gender. linger, well-maintained and friendly Green This collection resembles Cambodia’s Choe- Hill Guesthouse (%077-385 4369; r US$14- ung Ek killing fields, where thousands of 20; a), in an imposing villa on the north- skulls of Khmer Rouge victims are on dis- ern headland of Duong Beach, has spacious play, but as it’s clean, sterile and well-lit, rooms, including the room of choice on the with a spot to leave offerings in the centre, it top floor. appears almost cheerful compared to what confronts you next door. 88 Getting There & Away The memorial room showcases the weap- Hon Chong is 32km from Ha Tien towards Rach ons used by the Khmer Rouge (knives, bayo- Gia. The access road branches off the Rach nets and cudgels) and sticks used for torture, Gia–Ha Tien highway at the small town of Ba particularly of women. Many of the Ba Chuc Hon. Buses can drop you off at Ba Hon, from victims were tortured to death. The photos where you can hire a motorbike to continue the are for strong stomachs only. journey on to Hon Chong (around 80,000d). A motorbike day tour from Ha Tien will cost The bottoms of walls at the Phi Lai Tu around US$15. Temple behind the memorial room are still stained dark with the blood of the Tuc Dup Hill slain; over 300 villagers were slaughtered inside. The Vietnamese government might Because of its network of connecting caves, have had other motives for invading Cam- Tuc Dup Hill (216m) served as a strategic bodia at the end of 1978, but certainly out- base of operations during the American War. rage at the Ba Chuc massacre was a major Tuc dup is Khmer for ‘water runs at night’ justification. and it is also known locally as ‘Two Million Ba Chuc is 4km south of the road running parallel to the Cambodian border between Ha Tien and Chau Doc, somewhat closer to Ha Tien (75km). It’s possible to organise a tour from Chau Doc (US$30) or a xe om from Ha Tien (400,000d).

Chau Doc 405 and paths, and if you’re interested in getting % 076 / POP 103,000 river-borne, women may approach you here offering rides in small boats. Draped along the banks of the Hau Giang River (Bassac River), Chau Doc sees plenty Floating Houses HOUSE of travellers washing through on the river route between Cambodia and Vietnam. A These houses, whose floats consist of emp- likeable little town with significant Chinese, ty metal drums, are both a place to live and Cham and Khmer communities, Chau Doc’s a livelihood for their residents. Under each cultural diversity – apparent in the mosques, house, fish are raised in suspended metal temples, churches and nearby pilgrimage nets. The fish flourish in their natural river sites – makes it fascinating to explore even habitat; the family can feed them whatever if you’re not Cambodia-bound. Taking a boat scraps are handy. You can get a close-up look trip to the Cham communities across the by hiring a boat. river is another highlight, while the bustling M e ko n g D e lta CS ihgahutsD o c market and intriguing waterfront provide Chau Phu Temple BUDDHIST TEMPLE fine backdrops to a few days of relaxation. (Dinh Than Chau Phu; cnr Ð Nguyen Van Thoai & Ð Gia Long; hdawn-dusk) In 1926 this temple was built to worship the Nguyen dynasty of- ficial Thoai Ngoc Hau, buried at Sam Moun- 1 Sights tain. The structure is decorated with both Floating Market MARKET Vietnamese and Chinese motifs; inside are funeral tablets bearing the names of the de- (h5am-noon) You need to get up at the crack ceased as well as biographical information of dawn to see the best of this floating mar- ket. The action is busiest around 5am to about them. There’s also a shrine to Ho Chi 6am, when locals gather to buy fresh pro- Minh. duce wholesale. Chau Giang Mosque MOSQUE 30 Thang 4 Park PARK Domed, arched Chau Giang Mosque, in the hamlet of Chau Giang, serves the local (Ð Le Loi) Stretching from the main market to Cham Muslims. To get there, take the car the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel, this park is the city’s main promenading place and a super- ferry from Chau Giang ferry landing across lative spot for river gazing. Sculptures and the Hau Giang River. From the ferry landing, a fountain are framed by manicured lawns walk inland from the river for 30m, turn left and walk 50m. FISH FARMING & BIOFUEL Fish farming constitutes around 20% of Vietnam’s total seafood output and is widely practised in An Giang province, in the region near the Cambodian border. The highest concentration of ‘floating houses’ with fish cages can be observed on the banks of the Hau Giang River (Bassac River) in Chau Doc. The fish farmed are two members of the Asian catfish family: basa (Pangasius bo- courti) and tra (Pangasius hypophthalmus). About 1.1 million tonnes are produced by this method annually and much of it is exported, primarily to European and American markets (as well as Australia and Japan). The two-step production cycle starts with capturing fish eggs from the wild, usually sourced in the Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia, followed by raising the fish to a marketable size – usually about 1kg. One of the more interesting developments affecting fish farming is the move to con- vert fish fat, a by-product of processing, into biofuel. One kilogram of fish fat can yield 1L of bio-diesel fuel, according to specialists. It is claimed that the biofuel will be more efficient than diesel, is nontoxic and will generate far fewer fumes. Due to concerns about detrimental environmental effects from fish farming (particu- larly related to waste management and the use of antibiotics and other chemicals), the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) placed farmed Vietnamese pangasius on a red list for envi- ronmentally conscious European consumers to avoid. It was subsequently removed in 2011 and the WWF has devised a set of standards and an accreditation agency to certify sustainable Vietnamese producers.

406 e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles Chau Doc D A Ð Tran ÿ# 9 B C Hung Dao 1 Ngÿ#uye8nÐDTinhÐhuoBCnÐhag1iceD0Dhÿ#uo5aÿ#Dcn#a7g#ìPnÐLhgeuNú#T1gh3uÐ1uyÐú#5Ceú#1Nnh4igH#ÿLuuayu6neg4#CnaVnahn 1 66666666662 Ð Ð M e ko n g D e lta TCohau rusD o c Gia Long 3 #æ H(aBuasGsiaacnRgiRveivr)er Ð Le Cong 2 Thanh #Ú #ò Dong Song (250m); 2 Thoai Murray Guesthouse (600m); Mubarak Mosque (750m); Ð 1 Chau Giang Ferry Landing ÷# Thu Ð PhanÐDiQnhuÐaPPnhhguanTngrVuanngVang (270m); Phu Hiep Ferry Ð Le Loi Khoa Nghia Landing (550m); ›#(950m); Ð Thu Khoa Sam Mountain (5.4km); Tra Su Bird Sanctuary (23km); Tinh Bien-Phnom Den Huan Border Crossing (28km); Ð Cu 3 Ð Trung Nu Vuong Tourist f# Ba Chuc Tri Boats #ÿ (38km). 3 666666DSauHiep(800m) 11ú#12 D ABCD Chau Doc æ Sights 66661 30 Thang 4 Park ..................................C2 2 Chau Phu Temple ................................B2 3 Floating Market....................................C2 on the river bank opposite Chau Doc. Visi- tors are permitted, but you should avoid en- tering during the calls to prayer (five times daily) unless you are a Muslim. Ø Activities, Courses & Tours T Tours 4 Hang Chau............................................ B1 5 Mekong Tours ......................................A2 Xuan Mai CULTURAL TOUR (%0855 8896 11847, 0849 1891 0477; maixuan [email protected]) Friendly English-s­ peaking Mai arranges tours of the area, either on mo- ÿ Sleeping torbike or by car. She also makes bookings 6 Dai Loi Hotel.........................................B2 for speedboat transfers to Cambodia. 7 Hai Chau ...............................................A2 8 Hotel Hung Cuong ...............................A2 Mekong Tours CULTURAL TOUR 9 Thuan Loi Hotel.................................... B1 10 Trung Nguyen Hotel ............................A2 (%076-386 7817; www.mekongvietnam.com; 14 11 Victoria Chau Doc Hotel......................D3 Ð Nguyen Huu Canh; h8am-8pm) Local travel ú Eating agency for booking boat or bus transport to 12 Bassac Restaurant ..............................D3 Phnom Penh, boat trips on the Mekong, cars 13 Bay Bong .............................................. B1 with drivers and day tours that include the 14 Chau Doc Covered Market..................B2 floating market. 15 Memory Delicatessen .........................B2 4 Sleeping û Drinking & Nightlife Since Chau Doc is on the well-trodden trav- Bamboo Bar ................................ (see 11) eller route to Cambodia, some English is Tan Chau Salon Bar.................... (see 11) spoken at most accommodation options. Mubarak Mosque MOSQUE Trung Nguyen Hotel HOTEL $ (%076-356 1561; www.trungnguyenhotel.com.vn; (Thanh Duong Hoi Giao; on river bank, opposite 86 Ð Bach Dang; s/d US$15/17; aW) One of the Chau Doc) The Mubarak Mosque, where chil- dren study the Koran in Arabic script, is also better budget places, with more midrange

407 trim. Rooms are more decorative than the oVictoria Chau Doc Hotel HOTEL $$$ competition, with balconies overlooking (%076-386 5010; www.victoriahotels.asia; 32 Ð the market. It’s situated on a busy corner Le Loi; r from 4,193,000d, ste from 6,128,000d; site, so pack earplugs or ask for a room fac- aWs) Chau Doc’s most luxurious option, ing the rear. the Victoria delivers classic colonial charm, overseen by ao-dai-clad staff. With a strik- Hai Chau HOTEL $ ing location on the riverfront, the grand (%076-626 0066; www.haichauhotel.com; 63 Ð rooms here have dark-wood floors and fur- Suong Nguyet Anh; s US$15, d US$18-28; aW) niture, and inviting bath-tubs. The swim- A decent, central cheapie, Hai Chau has 16 rooms spread over four floors above a res- ming pool overlooks the busy river action taurant, with a lift. Well-kept rooms are and there’s a small spa upstairs. A range of smartly fitted out with dark wooden furni- tours is available to guests. M e ko n g D e lta CEahtaiun gD o c ture; some have a balcony. 5 Eating Thuan Loi Hotel HOTEL $ At night, you can try a variety of cool che (%076-386 6134; [email protected]; 275 (dessert soups) at che stalls on Ð Bach Dang, Ð Tran Hung Dao; r 200,000-280,000d; aW) next to the pagoda. There are also lots of The sole cheapie with a riverside location, other inexpensive stalls with large white- plus a floating restaurant. Rooms are not board menus. so atmospheric, but good value. The cheap- er rooms are cold-water only, so consider a Chau Doc Covered Market VIETNAMESE $ (Ð Bach Dang; meals 20,000-40,000d; h7am- mini-splurge. 9pm) Delicious local specialities, such as oMurray Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ grilled glutinous rice filled with banana and (%076-356 2108; www.murrayguesthouse.com; other stall food. Truong Dinh; s/d US$26/29; naW) Its walls decorated with indigenous art, collected by the Kiwi-Vietnamese owners around the GETTING TO CAMBODIA: world, this wonderful guesthouse raises the CHAU DOC TO PHNOM PENH standard of Chau Doc accommodation dra- BY BUS matically. Boons include a guest lounge with snooker table and honour bar, a rooftop Getting to the border Eclipsed by the terrace drowning in greenery, wonderfully newer crossing of Xa Xia near Ha Tien, comfortable beds and some of Vietnam’s the Tinh Bien/Phnom Den border best pho for breakfast. Owners are happy to crossing is less convenient for Phnom advise and lend bicycles. Penh–bound travellers, but may be of interest to those who savour the Hotel Hung Cuong BUSINESS HOTEL $$ challenge of obscure border crossings. (%076-356 8111; www.hungcuonghotel.com; 96 Ɖ A bus to Phnom Penh (US$25, five to Dong Da; s/d from US$38/42; aW) Stylish hotel six hours) passes through Chau Doc en overlooking a peaceful green square. Rooms route from Can Tho at around 7.30am come with satellite TV and welcome touches and can be booked through Mekong of artwork. The Hung Cuong sleeper buses Tours in Chau Doc; double-check the to Ho Chi Minh City conveniently depart pick-up point. The roads leading to from just outside the hotel. Rooms facing the border have improved but are still the front ‘benefit’ from the ringing of gongs bumpy. at the temple. At the border Cambodian visas can be Dai Loi Hotel BUSINESS HOTEL $$ obtained here, although you may wish (%076-356 6619; [email protected]; 68- to pay US$35 rather than the offical 72 Ɖ Nguyen Van Thoai; r from 450,000d; aW) (at research time) fee of US$30 to be This shiny super-central hotel sparkles with processed quickly. Yes, it’s a mild form myriad Christmas baubles in the lobby. of extortion, but your time may be more Rooms are spotless, spacious, tiled affairs valuable than your money. and the place attracts a mixed crowd of in- ternational travellers and Chinese business- Moving on Most travellers opt for a through bus ticket from Chau Doc. men. English and French spoken.

408 Bay Bong VIETNAMESE $ and more. Garlicky morning glory and vats (22 Ð Thuong Dang Le; meals 50,000-100,000d; of steamed rice make the ideal supporting h9am-8pm) Informal spot with metal tables cast. and chairs, but the food is something, with tasty fish-and-vegetable hotpot, stir-fried oBassac Restaurant FRENCH, VIETNAMESE $$$ rice with seafood, snake-head fish soup, gar- licky morning glory and more. (%076-386 5010; 32 Ð Le Loi; meals 160,000- 450,000d; h6am-10pm; v) Chau Doc’s most Sau Hiep VIETNAMESE $ sophisticated dining experience is at the (398 Ɖ Nguyen Van Thoai; meals 35,000d; h8am- Victoria Chau Doc Hotel where the menu 9pm) On the way to Sam Mountain, 1km veers between wonderful international dish- out of town, this simple eatery makes a es (roast rack of lamb, seared duck breast), great pit stop for roll-your-own nem nuong dishes with a French accent (Provençale tart, M e ko n g D e lta DC hrianukiDnogc (spring rolls filled with spiced pork meat- gratin dauphinois) and beautifully present- balls, cucumber, fresh herbs, pineapple and ed Vietnamese dishes, such as grilled squid beansprouts), dipped in a tangy, spicy sauce. with green peppercorns. The apple pie with cinnamon ice cream makes for a sublime oMemory Delicatessen INTERNATIONAL $$ ending. (57 Ɖ Nguyen Huu Canh; meals 60,000-200,000d; 6 Drinking h7am-10pm; aWv) This sophisticated c­afe-restaurant that attracts local trendies Chau Doc is pretty sleepy. is memorable for its wonderful melange of international dishes, from the excellent piz- Tan Chau Salon Bar BAR zas topped with imported ingredients, to the fragrant vegetable curry with coconut milk (www.victoriahotels.asia; Victoria Chau Doc Hotel, and lemongrass, accompanied by an array 32 Ɖ Le Loi; h6am-11pm) Sip a cocktail amid of fresh juices and imaginative shakes. Skip ­elegant Indochine surroundings. dessert, though, unless it’s the homemade ice cream. Bamboo Bar BAR (www.victoriahotels.asia; Victoria Chau Doc Hotel, 32 Ɖ Le Loi; hnoon-10pm) A stylish place for a tipple. Take your drink outside for a sun- Dong Song SEAFOOD $$ downer overlooking the river. (7 Ɖ Le Loi; mains from 60,000d; hnoon-10pm) The atmospheric riverside setting of this cavernous restaurant is complemented by 88 Information the extensive menu of fish and seafood dish- es, such as squid with chilli and lemongrass, Main Post Office (2 Ð Le Loi; h 8am-5pm) tamarind clams, steamed whole red snapper Vietinbank (% 076-386 6497; 68-70 Ð Nguyen Huu Canh) Foreign currency can be exchanged. GETTING TO CAMBODIA: CHAU DOC TO PHNOM PENH BY BOAT Getting to the border One of the most enjoyable ways to enter Cambodia is via the Vinh Xuong/Kaam Samnor border crossing located just northwest of Chau Doc along the Mekong River. Several companies in Chau Doc sell boat journeys from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh via the Vinh Xuong border. Hang Chau (%Chau Doc 076-356 2771, Phnom Penh 855-12-883 542; www.hangchautourist.com.vn; per person US$25) boats depart Chau Doc at 7.30am from a pier at 18 Ð Tran Hung Dao, arriving at 12.30pm. From Phnom Penh they depart at noon. The more upmarket Blue Cruiser (%HCMC 08-3926 0253, Phnom Penh 855-236-333 666; www.bluecruiser.com) leaves the Victoria Hotel pier at 7am, costing US$55 (US$44 in the reverse direction, leaving Phnom Penh at 1.30pm). It takes about five hours, including the border check. The price includes all-you-can-drink beer and a snack. Delta Adventures advertises a boat transfer to Phnom Penh for just US$15; however, it’s a slower boat with an imperfect safety record and after you reach the border, you have to switch to a minibus to take you the rest of the way. At the border If coming from Cambodia, arrange a visa in advance. If leaving Vietnam, Cambodian visas are available at the crossing, but minor overcharging is common (plan on paying around US$35). Moving on Hang Chau and Blue Cruiser boats take you all the way to Phnom Penh.

409 BUSES FROM CHAU DOC DESTINATION COST (D) TIME (HR) FREQUENCY DISTANCE Can Tho 105,000-245,000 3½ hourly 120km Cao Lanh 100,000 3 hourly 90km Ha Tien 130,000-200,000 2¼ 5 daily 88km HCMC 150,000-350,000 7½ every 30min 245km Long Xuyen 65,000-100,000 1½ every 30min 62km Vinh Long 270,000 4 hourly 127km 88 Getting There & Away made cross-border raids and massacred Vi- M e ko n g D e lta SGae mttiMnogu Tnhtaeirne & Away etnamese civilians. BUS The most comfortable long-distance buses to Along with the shrines and tombs, the Can Tho and HCMC are Phuong Trang (www. steep path to the top is lined with the un- futaexpress.com), which depart from the main holy clamour of commerce and there are bus station, and Hung Cuong (www.hungcuong plenty of cafes and stalls in which to stop hotel.com), which depart from in front of Hung for a drink or a snack. Walking down is Cuong Hotel. Book tickets in advance via your easier than walking up (a not particularly lodgings. scenic 45-minute climb), so you can get a Chau Doc Bus Station (Ben Xe Chau Doc; Ð motorbike to drop you at the summit (about Le Loi) The bus station is on the eastern edge 30,000d from the base of the mountain). of town, around 2km out of the centre, where Ð The road to the top runs along the east side Le Loi becomes Hwy 91. All buses depart from of the mountain. Veer left at the base of the here, with the exception of the Hung Cuong mountain and turn right after about 1km buses to HCMC. where the road begins its climb. The moun- tain is open 24/7, with lights on the road for 88 Getting Around nocturnal climbs. Boats to Chau Giang district (across the Hau 1 Sights Giang River) leave from two docks: vehicle fer- ries depart from Chau Giang ferry landing (Ben oCavern Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE Pha Chau Giang), opposite 419 Ð Le Loi; smaller, more frequent boats leave from Phu Hiep ferry (Chua Hang; h4am-9pm) Also known as landing (Ben Pha FB Phu Hiep), a little further Phuoc Dien Tu, this temple is halfway up the southeast. western (far) side of Sam Mountain, with Private boats (around 100,000d for two TRA SU BIRD hours), which are rowed standing up, can be SANCTUARY FOREST hired from either of these spots or from 30 Thang 4 Park, and are highly recommended for Twenty-three kilometres west of Chau seeing the floating houses and visiting nearby Doc, the immense 800,000-hectare Cham minority villages and mosques. Motor- Tra Su Bird Sanctuary (admission boats (around 140,000d per hour) can be hired 120,000d; boat rides per person 75,000d; in the same area. h7am-4pm) is home to an astounding number of wading birds. Much of the Sam Mountain wetland is off-limits to visitors so that the birds’ breeding grounds are not dis- A sacred place for Buddhists, Sam Moun- turbed, but visits include a short speed- tain (Nui Sam, 284m) and its environs are boat ride and a tranquil 20-minute crammed with dozens of pagodas and tem- paddle along narrow channels through ples. A strong Chinese influence makes it the gnarled and green sunken forest. particularly popular with ethnic Chinese The best time to visit is December to but Buddhists of all ethnicities visit here. January, when the babies hatch. Motor- The views from the top are excellent (weath- bike tours from Chau Doc cost around er permitting), ranging deep into Cambodia. US$20 per person. There’s a military outpost on the summit, a legacy of the days when the Khmer Rouge

M e ko n g D e lta S iagmhtMso u n tai n410 road as Tay An Pagoda. Originally a simple amazing views of the surrounding country- affair of bamboo and leaves, the temple has side. The lower part of the pagoda includes been rebuilt many times, blending mid- monks’ quarters and two hexagonal tombs 20th-­century design with Vietnamese Bud- in which the founder of the pagoda, a female dhist decorative motifs and plenty of neon. tailor named Le Thi Tho, and a former head monk, Thich Hue Thien, are buried. The up- The statue itself is possibly a relic of the per section has two parts: the main sanctu- Oc-Eo culture, dating from the 6th century, ary, and an astounding complex of caverns and is also possibly that of a man – but don’t and grottoes. suggest that to one of the faithful. The main sanctuary features the statues of A Di Da (the Buddha of the Past) and According to one of several legends, Thich Ca Buddha (Sakyamuni, the Histori- the statue of Lady Xu used to stand at the cal Buddha), while in the caverns and grot- summit of Sam Mountain. In the early 19th toes you’ll find a host of deities, including century Siamese troops invaded the area a 1000-arm and 1000-eye Quan Am. There’s and decided to take it back to Thailand. But also a mirror room of Buddhas and an ef- as they carried the statue down the hill, it figy of Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen became heavier and heavier, and they were Buddhism. forced to abandon it by the side of the path. According to legend, Le Thi Tho came from Tay An Pagoda to this site half a centu- One day some villagers who were cutting ry ago to lead a quiet, meditative life. When wood came upon the statue and decided to she arrived, she found two enormous cobras, bring it back to their village in order to build one white and the other dark green. Le Thi a temple for it; but it weighed too much for Tho soon converted the snakes, which there- them to budge it. Suddenly, a girl appeared after led pious lives. Upon her death, the who, possessed by a spirit, declared herself snakes disappeared, but remain in statue to be Lady Xu. She announced to them that form in one of the dark cavern passages. nine virgins were to be brought and that they would be able to transport the statue Tay An Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE down the mountainside. The virgins were then summoned and carried the statue (Chua Tay An; h4am-10pm) Although found- down the slope, but when they reached the ed in 1847 on the site of an earlier bamboo plain, it became too heavy and they had to shrine, Tay An’s current structure dates from set it down. The people concluded that the 1958. Aspects of its eclectic architecture, par- site where the virgins halted had been se- ticularly its domed tower, reflect Hindu and lected by Lady Xu for the temple construc- Islamic influences. tion and it’s here that the Temple of Lady Xu Its main gate is of traditional Vietnamese stands to this day. design, and on its roofline romp figures of li- ons and two dragons fighting for possession Offerings of roast whole pigs are fre- of pearls, chrysanthemums, apricot trees quently presented to the statue, which is and lotus blossoms. dressed in glittering robes and adorned with If you’re coming from Chau Doc on Hwy an astonishing headdress. Once a month a 91, Tay An Pagoda is located straight ahead creation of vegetables representing a drag- at the foot of the mountain. on, tortoise, phoenix and qilin is also prof- The temple itself is guarded by statues of fered to the effigy. The Chinese characters a black elephant with two tusks and a white in the portal where worshippers pray are 主 elephant with six tusks. Inside are arrayed 处聖母, which mean ‘the main place of the fine carvings of hundreds of religious fig- sacred mother’. A further couplet reads 爲国 ures, most made of wood and some blinged 爲民, which means ‘for the country and for up with disco-light halos. Statues include the people’. The temple’s most important fes- Sakyamuni, the 18 a-la-han (arhat) and the tival is held from the 23rd to the 26th day of 12 muoi hai ba mu (midwives). The temple’s the fourth lunar month, usually late May or name – Tay An – means ‘Western Peace’. early June. During this time, pilgrims flock here, sleeping on mats in the large rooms of the two-storey resthouse next to the temple. Temple of Lady Xu BUDDHIST TEMPLE Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau TOMB (Mieu Ba Chua Xu; h24hr) Founded in the (Lang Thoai Ngoc Hau; h5am-10.30pm) A 1820s to house a statue of Lady Xu that’s be- come the subject of a popular cult, this large high-ranking official, Thoai Ngoc Hau (1761–1829) served the Nguyen Lords and, temple faces Sam Mountain, on the same later, the Nguyen dynasty. In early 1829

411 Thoai Ngoc Hau ordered that a fine tomb be tween humans and the Supreme Being. Un- M e ko n g D e lta GL oe nttgi nX ug yTehne r e & Away constructed for himself at the foot of Sam til 1956 the Hoa Hao had an army and con- Mountain. The site he chose is nearly oppo- stituted a major military force in this region. site the Temple of Lady Xu. The town’s other claim to fame is being The steps are made of red ‘beehive’ stone the birthplace of Vietnam’s second presi- (da ong) brought from the southeastern part dent, Ton Duc Thang. If you’re a scholar of of Vietnam. In the middle of the platform Vietnamese history, you can visit his birth- is the tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau and those place and childhood home in My Hoa Hung of his wives, Chau Thi Te and Truong Thi village on Tiger Island by taking the ferry Miet. There’s a shrine at the rear and several from My Hoa Hung ferry port (Ben Pha O dozen other tombs in the vicinity where his Moi; Ɖ Nguyen Hue). The Ton Duc Thang Mu- officials are buried. seum (Khu Luu Niem Bac Ton Duc Thang; off Ɖ Nguyen Hue; h7-11am & 1-5pm) F showcas- 88 Getting There & Away es the leg irons he wore when serving his 16 years in Con Dao prison for plotting against Many people get here by rented motorbike or the French. on the back of a xe om (about 50,000d one way from Chau Doc). The most rewarding way to get The An Giang Museum (Nha Bao Tang here, however, is to rent a bicycle and to take An Giang; 11 Ton Duc Thang; admission 15,000d; the new road that runs towards the Cambodian h7.30-11am & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun) is also well border through peaceful rice paddy scenery. worth a look for its collection of Oc-Eo ar- tefacts, including pottery, fine gold jewellery Long Xuyen and a giant phallus. % 076 / POP 255,000 If overnight you must, large rooms with polished wooden floors, friendly service and The capital of An Giang province has little a decent breakfast served on the roof terrace to detain travellers, especially since Can Tho make Hotel Hoa Binh 1 (%076-385 7227; 130 and Chau Doc are an easy bus ride away. Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; r from 350,000d; aW) a good Long Xuyen was once a stronghold of the option. Hoa Hao sect. Founded in 1939, the sect emphasises simplicity in worship and does Hungry? Try the ultra-fresh fish and sea- not believe in temples or intermediaries be- food served grilled and steamed with a vari- ety of sauces at the professionally run Lang Long Xuyen e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles An Giang Museum (500m); Hotel Hoa Binh 1 (500m); Phuong Trang #›Terminal (2km); Bang Lang (15km); Chau Doc (62km); 66666RachGia(72km) Ton Duc Thang Museum (7km); H(aBuasGsiaacnRgiRveivr)er Duy Tan Ð Le T An Hoa Bridge Ð Le Minh Ng Ferry Ð Pham Hong Thai LoRingverXuyen#òÐ VHaunÐynHNagyohi Nhien f# My Hoa Hung Terminal D Ð Ly Thai Toì# ÐuonFerry Port NGgiauÐTyueNngVuaynenCHunuge f# Co-Op Ð BacLhoMngarXkueyten Ð Nguyen Trai Hoang Dieu 66666Bridge Dang Ð Chu VanÐADnien Bien Phu Ð ThoÐaHiaNi BgaoTcruHnagu Ð Pham Thanh Long MaÐr›#Ntgì#u(y1e.n5kTÐmraLyi)Ð;TuOThTcir-MoEniongh(K3h7aki m#ú);NLÐÐgaÐuTTnyrrDaeagnannnTHNgaohDniauÐtnDgLyuaTthai To Sa Dec (43km); Can Tho (62km) 666666ÐHaÐ Tran Hung Dao Ð Luong Van Cu 666 66HoangHo Ð Hung Vuong D Ð Thoai Ngoc Hau

412 BUSES FROM LONG XUYEN DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY DISTANCE Cao Lanh 60,000 1½ hourly 46km Can Tho 105,000 1½ hourly 62km Chau Doc 65,000-100,000 1½ hourly 62km Ho Chi Minh City 125,000 5 hourly 187km Rach Gia 130,000 2 hourly 72km M e ko n g D e lta GC ae ottiL annghT h e r e & Away Toi (33 Ɖ Tran Nhat Duat; meals from 90,000d; CAR & MOTORCYCLE h 11am-10pm). To get to Cao Lanh or Sa Dec you’ll need to take the car ferry from An Hoa ferry terminal. 88 Getting There & Away BOAT Cao Lanh All buses bound for Ho Chi Minh City (passing by the Cao Lanh ferry dock) currently cross the % 067 / POP 101,000 river using ferries from the An Hoa ferry termi- nal (Pha An Hoa; Ɖ Ly Thai To). A newish town carved from the jungles and swamps of the Mekong Delta region, Cao BUS Lanh is big for business, but draws few tour- The most comfortable buses to HCMC, Can Tho ists; in fact, you may double the foreigner and Chau Doc are Phuong Trang (www.futa population just by turning up (the only oth- express.com) and Hung Cuong (www.hung er foreigner when we visited was teaching cuonghotel.com); both depart from their own at the local college). Cao Lanh’s main appeal respective terminals. Phuong Trang terminal is is as a base to explore Rung Tram (Tram around 2.5km north of central Long Xuyen; Hung Forest) and Tram Chim National Park, both Cuong office is about 1km south of the centre, on reachable by boat, but it’s also a suprisingly the main highway. All HCMC-bound buses take walkable, pleasant city that’s refreshingly the car ferry across the river and pass by Pha untouristy. Cao Lanh en route. Long Xuyen Bus Station (Ben Xe Khach Long 1 Sights Xuyen; opposite 96/3b Ð Tran Hung Dao) Long Xuyen bus station is a roadside terminus about Van Thanh Mieu PARK 1.5km down Ð Phan Cu Luong, off Ð Tran Hung Dao, at the southern end of town. At the heart of the city and encompassing a lake with a topiary outline of Vietnam in the middle, this lush park is a wonderful place OC-EO During the 1st to 6th centuries AD, when southern Vietnam and southern Cambodia were under the rule of the Indian-influenced Cambodian kingdom of Funan, Oc-Eo (Hwy 943; 37km southwest of Long Xuyen) was a major trading city and important port. In the late 1990s the site was excavated to find skeletons in burial vases, elaborate gold jewellery, weaponry, a wealth of pottery and more. Little remains except building foundations, but it’s a beautiful back-country ride to get there. Much of what is known about the Funan empire, which reached its height during the 5th century AD, comes from contemporary Chinese sources and the excavations at Oc-Eo and Angkor Borei in neighbouring Cambodia. The excavations have uncovered evidence of contact between Oc-Eo and what is now Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia, as well as Persia and the Roman Empire. An elaborate system of canals around Oc-Eo was once used for both irrigation and transportation, prompting Chinese travellers of the time to write about ‘sailing across Funan’ on their way to the Malay peninsula. Most of the buildings of Oc-Eo were built on piles and pieces of these structures indicate the high degree of refinement achieved by Funanese civilisation. Artefacts found at Oc-Eo are on display at the History Museum and Fine Arts Museum in HCMC and at the History Museum in Hanoi.

413 Cao Lanh e#0 400 m 0 0.2 miles ABCD HÐuPuhLaaum DTram Chim National #÷ 3 Park (40km) #á 4 1 Ð CÐÐaTLoRreaiLvnDaeHnrhung Dao 6666666ü#10 ÿ# Ngo Thoi Nham Du an 666662 6 Ð Nguyen Trai Vo Truong Toan Dinh Trung Sa Dec 1 8 ú# Bridge (27km); ÿ#Ð Nú#gÐu9ÐHyeuNÐnnggHLuÐVeyuLueAeeonnnLVhgoaXinuTarnoi Xeo Quyt Ð Ð ÿ# Ð TrDuionnhg Forest (35km); 7 #ì Vinh Long (44km); Le Chau Doc (99km); #ò Ð 30 Thang 4 Qui Don 12›#ÐÐLÐVyoTLTuyhTTirhSouanougng Ho Chi Minh City (141km) M e ko n g D e lta CS iagohLtasn h 2 Ð 5 6666ï# 11 â# 1 KDoiectBinhÐKHieÐauiNBgauyTÐeruCnnaDgcihnÐhMNCagnhugieyTuehnanTghTaaimHoc 36662÷# ChauDoc(99km),Cao Lanh Ferry 3 Terminal (4km); Duc Bridge Long Xuyen (46km); DCan Tho (82km); 11 AB 111 D 11 111 1 1C 111 66to observe local life: from early-morning ex- Cao Lanh ercise on the strange-looking contraptions to the twinkling lights after dark, when lo- æ Sights cal lovers gather on the benches around the 1 Dong Thap Museum ............................B3 lake, staring at the water and keeping physi- 2 Tomb of Nguyen Sinh Sac ..................A3 cal contact to a minimum. 3 Van Thanh Mieu ................................... B1 4 War Martyrs Monument...................... D1 Dong Thap Museum MUSEUM ÿ Sleeping 5 Hoa Anh................................................C2 (226 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30- 6 Huong Sen Hotel.................................. B1 5pm) F The Dong Thap Museum is 7 Nha Khach Dong Thap ........................ B1 among the Mekong’s best museums, despite having no English captions. The ground ú Eating floor displays an anthropological history of 8 A Chau .................................................. B1 Dong Thap province, with exhibits of tools, 9 Ngoc Lan ..............................................C2 sculpture, models of traditional houses and a few stuffed animals and pickled fish. Up- û Drinking & Nightlife stairs is devoted to war history and Ho Chi 10 Cau Vua Coffee .................................... A1 Minh. ï Information War Martyrs Monument MONUMENT 11 Dong Thap Tourist...............................B2 On the eastern edge of town off Hwy 30, ï Transport the War Memorial (Dai Liet Si) is Cao 12 Cao Lanh Bus Station..........................C2 Lanh’s most prominent landmark, a Social- ist R­ ealist–style sculpture featuring a large white concrete statue of a decorated soldier holding flowers in front of a stylised star. Tomb of Nguyen Sinh Sac PARK The rear of the statue is illustrated with (Lang Cu Nguyen Sinh Sac; off Ð Pham Huu Lau) The tomb of Ho Chi Minh’s father, Nguyen storks, a symbol of the Mekong. Sinh Sac (1862–1929), is the centrepiece of Within the grounds are the graves of 3112 VC who died fighting in the American War. a pretty 9.6-hectare park and model herit- age village of wooden houses peopled by

414 some staff speak a little English and the ad- manikins depicting traditional pursuits. The joning cafe is the town’s evening hot spot. tomb itself is located under a shell-shaped shrine set behind a star-shaped lotus pond. 5 Eating & Drinking The complex is located at the southwest approach to town; turn right after Hoa Long Cao Lanh is famous for chuot dong (rice-field Pagoda and follow the fence around until rats) so come with room in your stomach to you get to the entrance. sample the local delicacy; the tender white Although various plaques (in Vietnam- meat is reminiscent of – you’ve guessed it! – ese) and tourist pamphlets extol Nguyen chicken (or possibly quail). At the very least, Sinh Sac as a great revolutionary, scarce it’ll make a great story when you get back evidence confirms that he was involved home. in the anticolonial struggle against the M e ko n g D e lta SClaeoeLpiannghFrench, and the tomb receives few domestic oA Chau VIETNAMESE $ visitors. His son more than made up for it, (%067-385 2202; 42 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; mains howe­ ver: next to the shrine is a small mu- 40,000-95,000d; h11am-10pm) Probably the seum (h8am-5pm) devoted to Ho Chi Minh nicest restaurant in town, serving such lo- consisting mainly of photographs with Viet- cal fare as banh xeo (fried pancakes filled namese captions. with crayfish, pork, mung beans and bean sprouts), field-rat platters and sweet-and- 4 Sleeping sour soup that is overflowing with dingding flowers. Hoa Anh HOTEL $ (%067-224 0567; [email protected]; 40 Ð Ly Tu Trong; r from 250,000d; aW) For the Ngoc Lan VIETNAMESE $ (210 Ɖ Nguyen Hue; dishes from 45,000d; h8am- cheapest price you’ll get a tidy, smallish dou- 9pm) The ‘Magnolia’ is a bright and inviting ble with a small bathroom at this fresh-faced hotel near the bus station. The two-bed choice, that offers fresh and tasty pot-cooked pork and mixed-vegetable soup. It’s illumi- rooms are spacious, while the pricier rooms nated with a red-and-green LED sign at would fit a family. night. Nha Khach Dong Thap HOTEL $ Cau Vua Coffee COFFEE (%067-387 2670; 48 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; r from 400,000d; aW) A Communist Party special (cnr Nguyen Thi Luu & Thien Ho Duong; h7.30am- 9pm) With a leafy courtyard, comfy chairs on and a favourite with the army, with large, the patio and a tranquil water feature, this is airy, OK rooms, a reception dripping in marble, and a quiet location, set back from one of the nicest cafes to savour a ca phe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk). the main street. However, very little English is spoken and it has an institutionalised feel. 88 Information Huong Sen Hotel BUSINESS HOTEL $$ Dong Thap Tourist (% 067-387 3026; www. (%0128 294 5104; www.huongsenhoteldt.com; 18 dongthaptourist.com; 2 Ð Doc Binh Kieu; h7- Ɖ Vo Truong Toan; r 730,000d; aW) The smart- 11.30am & 1.30-5pm) A friendly, helpful outfit est of Cao Lanh’s lodgings, and the tallest that can arrange rather pricey boat and other building in town, Huong Sen overlooks the tours of the surrounding area. park. Rooms are compact but comfortable, Main Post Office (85 Ð Nguyen Hue) Vietinbank (% 067-382 2030; Ð Nguyen Hue) You can also exchange cash here. BUSES FROM CAO LANH DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY DISTANCE Can Tho 50,000 2¼ daily 82km Chau Doc 100,000 3½ hourly 99km HCMC 100,000 3½ every 30min 141km Long Xuyen 60,000 2 hourly 46km Sa Dec 13,000 45min several daily 27km Vinh Long 30,000 1¼ several daily 44km

415 88 Getting There & Away periodically dropped some bombs on it to M e ko n g D e lta GA re ottuinndg CTahoe rLea n&hAway reassure themselves, but the VC remained While there are no direct services to Chau Doc safe in their hideouts. from Cao Lanh, comfortable sleeper buses Tram Chim National Park NATURE RESERVE from HCMC to Chau Doc (via Long Xuyen) pass (h7am-4pm) Tram Chim National Park is the Cao Lanh Ferry Terminal (Pha Cao Lanh) situated around 40km due north of Cao along the main road across the river from Lanh and is notable for its rare red-­headed the town at least hourly. If possible, reserve cranes (Grus antigone sharpii), though your seat in advance with Phuong Trang at more than 220 species of bird live within the Cao Lanh bus station, take a xe om to the the reserve. passenger ferry, cross the river and wait. Sa Dec–bound services take you as far as the The cranes nest here from about De- ferry; you connect to a different bus across cember to May; from June to November the river. they migrate to northwest Cambodia. Seeing them requires a considerable com- BUS mitment (time, effort and money), with Cao Lanh Bus Station (Ben Xe Cao Lanh; 71/1 Dong Thap Tourist organising expensive Ð Ly Thuong Kiet) Conveniently located in the trips by car and small boat (5,000,000d); centre of town. it’s cheaper to go if you make friends with locals. Around Cao Lanh Sa Dec 1 Sights % 067 / POP 77,000 oXeo Quyt Forest NATURE RESERVE The drowsy former capital of Dong Thap (Xeo Quyt, Xeo Quit; admission 5000d; h7am- province, Sa Dec is a comparatively peace- 4.30pm) Around 35km southeast of Cao Lanh ful city of tree-lined streets and fading colo- is the magnificent 52-hectare Xeo Quyt For- nial villas, ringed with orchards and flower est near My Hiep village. One vast swamp markets. You can visit the nurseries (Vuon beneath a beautiful thick canopy of tall trees Hoa; h7am-5pm) F lining the river and and vines, it hides the remains of Viet Cong canals a short xe om ride (30,000d) out of bunkers, which can be seen both on a canoe the centre. The town is particularly famous tour inside the forest and on foot along the for its roses; the best time to visit is just walking trails. before Tet, to watch a riot of flowers loaded A taxi from Cao Lanh, including waiting onto boats. time, costs around 800,000d. For much of the year, a marvellous The town’s biggest attraction (though 20-minute canoe tour (15,000d) takes you it’ll only take up about 20 minutes of your past old bunkers and former mine fields time) is the Huynh Thuy Le Old House along a narrow canal loop beneath the (Nha Co Huynh Thuy Le; %0939 533 523; 225a Ð forest canopy and choked with water hy- Nguyen Hue; admission 30,000d; h8am-5pm), a acinths (luc binh). It’s an exquisite experi- wonderfully atmospheric 1895 residence on ence but splash on the repellent. A walking the riverfront that was once the residence trail parallels the canal and allows you to of Huynh Thuy Le, the 27-year-old son of a duck into the Z- and L-shaped Viet Cong rich Chinese family who Marguerite Duras bunkers (if you’re compact enough) and to had an affair with in 1929 when she was admire the expertly hidden, tiny trapdoors only 15 – she immortalised the romance in through which the Viet Cong disappeared the semi-autobiographical novel, The Lov- underground. er, which was eventually made into a film During the American War the VC had a by Jean-Jacques Annaud. The house is a base here, where top-brass VC lived in un- Sino-French design with intricate interior derground bunkers. Only about 10 VC were woodwork, mother-of-pearl inlaid doors, here at any given time; they were all gener- heavy wooden furniture and original floor als who directed the war from here, just 2km tiles, made in France. In the entrance hall from a US military base. The Americans nev- there are photos of the Le family, as well as er realised that the VC generals were living those of Marguerite Duras herself, and stills right under their noses. Naturally, they were from the film. suspicious about that patch of forest and

416 e# 0 200 m Sa Dec 0 0.1 miles Sa Dec B æ Sights A 1 Huynh Thuy Le Old House ..................B3 Nurseries (2km) D D11 ÿ Sleeping Ð TraÐnNHguuyÐSnÐeagnHLDDuHenaeuLcgoeoRViuivonerg 2 Phuong Nam ........................................A4 662 Ð NguyD5Ðeunú#Do ChXieÐuuaHnoHuong Ð Tran Phu 3 Thao Ngan Hotel..................................B4 ú# 4 ú Eating 4 Night Market ........................................B2 5 Quan Com Thuy...................................A2 M e ko n g D e lta S laeDeepicn g & Eati n g 2 Phuong Nam HOTEL $ (%067-386 7867; www.khachsanphuongnam.com; 384a Ð Nguyen Sinh Sac; r 180,000-370,000d; aW) This decent minihotel is situated on Ð Ho ‚ Ð Hoang Dieu the main road. Xuan Huong 1 #âÐ CCaanoaLlanhÐ Ph an Boi Chau (45km) Nguyen 6663 Night Market VIETNAMESE $ (Ɖ Nguyen Hue; meals around 50,000d; h5-10pm) Hue The hopping night market that is situated Ð Ly Thuong Kiet Ð Ð Nguyen Tat Thanh Tran 3 riverside has a lively string of hotpot restau- Ð Le Hung rants come evening, as well as stalls that sell Thanh Ton all manner of grilled things. Ð Lac Dao Quan Com Thuy VIETNAMESE $ Long Quan Market ÿ# (%067-386 1644; 439 Ð Hung Vuong; mains ÿ# 2Ð Ð Au Co 3 50,000-90,000d; h9am-9pm) This reputable Nguyen Sinh Sac D meat-and-rice joint offers aluminium furni- ›# (700m); 4 Vinh Long (25km); 4 ture, bright lights and a menu filled with the local specialities, such as claypot eel Can Tho (52km) with rice. AB 88 Getting There & Away 4 Sleeping & Eating From the bus station (Ben Xe Sa Dec; Hwy 80) behind the hospital, frequent buses leave Thao Ngan Hotel HOTEL $ for Ho Chi Minh City (58,000d to 95,000d, (%067-377 4255; 4 An Duong Vuong; r 350,000d; 3½ hours, hourly), Vinh Long (15,000d, one aW) The cleanest and nicest of the local hour, several daily) and Cao Lanh (13,000d, 45 hotels, this one is very centrally located minutes, several daily). Some of the latter may near the market and one of the receptionists drop you at the Cao Lanh ferry port across the speaks good English. river from town.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor (Cambodia) Includes  Why Go? Siem Reap................... 418 Where to begin with Angkor? There is no greater concentra- Temples of Angkor......426 tion of architectural riches anywhere on earth. Choose from Angkor Wat.................426 the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat; one of the Angkor Thom.............. 427 world’s weirdest, Bayon; or the riotous jungle of Ta Prohm. Around All are global icons and have helped put Cambodia on the Angkor Thom...............431 map as the temple capital of Asia. Today, the monuments Further Afield.............. 432 are a point of pilgrimage for all Khmers, and no traveller to the region will want to miss their expressive architecture. Best Temples Siem Reap was always destined for great things and of- ¨¨Angkor Wat (p426) fers everything from backpacker party pads to hip hotels, ¨¨Bayon (p431) world-class wining and dining, and sumptuous spas. ¨¨Ta Prohm (p432) ¨¨Banteay Srei (p432) Despite the headline act that is Angkor and the sophis- ¨¨Beng Mealea (p432) tication of Siem Reap, Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, but they Best Eating & have prevailed with a smile and no visitor comes away from Drinking this kingdom without a measure of admiration and affec- tion for its inhabitants. ¨¨Marum (p422) ¨¨Cuisine Wat Damnak When to Go Rainfall inches/mm (p423) 16/400 ¨¨Haven (p422) Siem Reap ¨¨Charlie’s (p423) ¨¨Laundry Bar (p423) °C/°F Temp 40/104 30/86 12/300 20/68 8/200 10/50 4/100 0/32 0 JF MAM J J A S OND Nov–Feb Humid- Mar–Jun Temper- Jul–Oct The wet ity is low, there atures rise and in season: Angkor are cool breezes May or June the is surrounded by and little rain. monsoon brings lush foliage and Peak season for rain and humidity. the moats are full visitors. of water.

418 PREAH PREAH D#4 Banteay Srei (15km) KHAN DAK CHAU ANGKOR Eastern Baray SREI VIBOL Western THOM Bayon #2 #3 Ta Prohm Baray ·/NH6 #1 Angkor Wat Airport Rd SIEM REAP #5 /·NH6 ROLOUS Psar Char area BAKONG Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap ·/NH6 e# 0 10 km 0 5 miles Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor Highlights 1 Seeing the sun rise over enigmatic faces staring out delicate carvings adorning one of the world’s most into the jungle. Banteay Srei (p432), the iconic buildings, the one and 3 Witnessing nature finest seen at Angkor. only Angkor Wat (p426). running riot at the mysterious 5 Exploring the Psar Chaa 2 Contemplating the ruin of Ta Prohm (p432), the (Old Market) area (p422) serenity and splendour of Tomb Raider temple. of Siem Reap, home to the Bayon (p431), with its 216 4 Staring in wonder at the funkiest restaurants and bars in town. SIEM REAP galleries. After a short presentation, visitors enter the Zen-like ‘Gallery of a Thousand % 063 / POP 175,000 Buddhas’, which has an excellent collec- tion of images. Other exhibits include the Life-support system for the temples of Ang- pre-Angkorian periods of Funan and Chen- kor, Siem Reap (pronounced see-em ree-ep) la; the Khmer kings; Angkor Wat; Angkor is part of the new, cool Cambodia, a pul- Thom; and the inscriptions. sating place that’s one of the most popular destinations on the planet right now. At Artisans Angkor – its heart though, Siem Reap – whose name rather undiplomatically means ‘Siamese Les Chantiers Écoles ARTS CENTRE Defeated’ – is still a little charmer, with old French shophouses, shady tree-lined boule- (អា ទីសង់អងរ្គ ; www.artisansdangkor.com; vards and a slow-flowing river. h7.30am-6.30pm) SF Siem Reap is the epicentre of the drive to revitalise Cambo- dian traditional culture, which was dealt a 1 Sights harsh blow by the Khmer Rouge and the oAngkor National Museum MUSEUM years of instability that followed its rule. Les Chantiers Écoles teaches wood- and stone- (សារ​មនរទី្ ​អងរគ្ ; %063-966601; www.angkor carving techniques, traditional silk painting, nationalmuseum.com; 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd; adult/child under 1.2m US$12/6; h8.30am-6pm, lacquerware and other artisan skills to im- poverished young Cambodians. Free guid- to 6.30pm Oct-Apr) Looming large on the road ed tours explaining traditional techniques to Angkor is the Angkor National Museum, a state-of-the-art showpiece on the Khmer are available daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm. Tucked down a side road, the school is well civilisation and the majesty of Angkor. signposted from Sivatha St. Displays are themed by era, religion and roy- alty as visitors move through the impressive

Cambodia Landmine Museum MUSEUM 419 Khmer Organisation, which supports educa- %សា0រ12ម5ន9ទីរ្8គ9្រ5ា1;បw់មwីនw.កcaមmុពជ្ bាodនialងិ anមdmលូ inនemធិ uសិ seuងm្គ.o្រ rោgះ;; tion and vocational training. donationUS$3; h7.30am-5pm Established by DIY Cambodia Vespa Adventures TOUR de-miner Aki Ra, this museum has excellent (%012 861610; www.cambodiavespaadventures. com; tours per person from US$60-99) The mod- displays on the curse of landmines in Cam- ern Vespa is a cut above the average moto bodia. The collection includes mines, mor- tars, guns and weaponry, and there is a mock and is a comfortable way to explore the tem- ples, learn about local life in the countryside minefield where visitors can attempt to locate or check out some street food after dark, all the deactivated mines. Proceeds from the museum are ploughed into mine-awareness in the company of excellent and knowledge- able local guides. campaigns. The museum is about 25km from Siem Reap, near Banteay Srei. Quad Adventure Cambodia ADVENTURE TOUR Cambodian (%092 787216; www.quad-adventure-cambodia. com; sunset ride US$30, full day US$170) The Cultural Village CULTURAL CENTRE original quad-bike operator in town. Rides around Siem Reap involve rice fields at sun- (%063-963836; www.cambodianculturalvillage. set, pretty temples, and back roads through com; Airport Rd; adult/child under 1.1m US$9/free; traditional villages. h8am-7pm) It may be kitsch, it may be kooky, but it’s very popular with Cambodians and Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap provides a diversion for families travelling with children. This is the Cambodian Cul- Bodia Spa SPA tural Village, which tries to represent all of (%063-761593; www.bodia-spa.com; Pithnou St; h10am-midnight) Sophisticated spa near Psar Cambodia in a whirlwind tour of re-created Chaa offering a full range of scrubs, rubs and houses and villages. The visit begins with a wax museum and includes homes of the natural remedies, including its own line of herbal products. Cham, Chinese, Kreung and Khmer people, as well as miniature replicas of landmark Cooks in Tuk Tuks COOKING COURSE buildings in Cambodia. (%063-963400; www.therivergarden.info; River Rd West; per person US$25) Starts at 10am daily Angkor Centre for Conservation with a visit to Psar Leu market, then returns of Biodiversity WILDLIFE RESERVE to the River Garden for a professional class. (ACCB; www.accb-cambodia.org; donation US$3; htours 9am & 1pm Mon-Sat) Conveniently lo- Angkor Golf Resort GOLF cated near the base of the trail to Kbal Spean (%063-761139; www.angkor-golf.com; green fees US$115) This world-class course was de- is the Angkor Centre for Conservation of signed by British golfer Nick Faldo. Fees rise Biodiversity, committed to rescuing, rehabil- itating and reintroducing threatened wild- to US$175 with clubs, caddies, carts and all. life to the Cambodian forests. Tours of the centre are available daily at 9am and 1pm, taking about 90 minutes. The 9am tour is the better option as animals are fed at this CAMBODIA FAST FACTS time and are more lively than during the heat of the day in the afternoon. Area 181,035 sq km Border Crossings with Vietnam Seven 2 Activities Capital Phnom Penh Phone Country Code %855 There is an incredible array of activities on Head of State King Sihamoni offer in Siem Reap, including Flight of the Population 16 million Gibbon Angkor (p422), a zipline adventure Money US$1 = 4000r (riel) through the jungle. National Holiday Chaul Chnam or Khmer New Year, mid-April KKO (Khmer for Khmer Phrases sua s’dei (hello), lia suhn hao-y (goodbye), aw kohn (thank you) Organisation) Bike Tours BICYCLE TOUR (%093 903024; www.kko-cambodia.org; cnr St 20 & Wat Bo Rd; tours US$35-50) S Good-cause cycling tours around the paths of Angkor or into the countryside beyond the Western Baray. Proceeds go towards the Khmer for

420 Siem Reap e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles ABCD Cooks Tuk Tuks (350m); Street 7 Angkor Charles de Gaulle Blvd Dâ# The Lane#û#û2274#û25 National D #û 28 Museum 1 Hanuman Cambodia Vespa Wat Bo RdAlaya (1km) 1 Pithnou St Adventures (1.6km) 1 20 #ý 30 #Ø 3 #ú St 22 Pu18b #ú Alley' ÿ# 12 #ú PokaAmvebor 'AWlleesyt' 'The 9 #û 26 þ# 36 Street #þ 35 GRarodyeanl s 2 0 100 m 2 ·/NH6 D Senteurs d'Angkor Botanic Garden (1km); #ÿ 9 D D Cambodian Cultural æ# Village (3.3km); Royal #– (8.3km) Residence Pithnou St #ú 14 ·/23 #ú D D3 Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap Funky Flashpacker (100m) Taphul St Oum Khun St St 3 NH6 Sivatha St ÿ# 10 Oum Chhay St8 St 20 ›# St 14ÿ# / Taxi Rank 3 SiemPoRkeaapmbRiovreArvRed (1.7km) #4 St 21 17 #ú Tep Vong St ÿ# 7 4 16 #ú Tep Vong St Wat Bo 31 33 ÿ# 6 St 22 #Ú 4 þ# þ# Wat Preah St 23 #ý 29 5 My Home Prohm Roth Tropical Villa See Enlargement #Ú (600m) Sivatha St Wat Bo RdSt 24 ÿ# 11 Sok San St 5 St 25 ÿ# 13 15S#útþ#2634 #ú æ# 2 21 þ# 32 PoSkieammRbeoarpARviever #Ú St 27 6 Psar Krohm St Wat Dam 7 Makara St Nak Tonlé Sap Rd DHaven 6 (350m) Phare the Cambodian Circus (1.8km) #ú 19 7 #5 7 ABCD

421 Siem Reap 17 Bugs Cafe................................................A4 Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap 18 Cambodian BBQ..................................... A1 æ Top Sights 19 Cuisine Wat Damnak..............................D7 1 Angkor National Museum ......................C1 20 Marum..................................................... D1 21 Pages Cafe..............................................C5 æ Sights 22 Red Piano................................................ A1 2 Artisans Angkor – Les Chantiers 23 Sugar Palm .............................................A3 Écoles .................................................. A5 û Drinking & Nightlife 24 Asana ...................................................... A1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 25 Charlie's .................................................. A1 3 Bodia Spa ................................................ B1 26 Laundry Bar ............................................B2 4 KKO (Khmer for Khmer 27 Miss Wong .............................................. A1 Organisation) Bike Tours ................... D3 28 YOLO Bar ................................................ B1 5 Quad Adventure Cambodia .................. B7 ý Entertainment 29 Plae Pakaa ..............................................D4 ÿ Sleeping 30 Temple Club ........................................... A1 6 Ivy Guesthouse 2 ................................... C4 þ Shopping 7 La Résidence d'Angkor ......................... C4 31 Angkor Night Market .............................A4 8 Mad Monkey .......................................... B3 32 Artisans Angkor......................................A5 9 Rosy Guesthouse .................................. D2 33 Rajana .....................................................A4 10 Shinta Mani ............................................ C3 34 Samatoa..................................................C5 11 Soria Moria Hotel................................... C5 35 Senteurs d'Angkor .................................B2 12 Steung Siem Reap Hotel ........................ B1 36 Smateria .................................................A2 13 Viroth's Hotel ......................................... C5 ú Eating 14 Angkor Market ....................................... B3 15 Banllé Vegetarian Restaurant .............. C5 16 Blossom Cafe......................................... B4 4 Sleeping Rosy Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%063-965059; www.rosyguesthouse.com; Siem Siem Reap offers everything from cheap Reap River Rd; r US$9-35; aW) S A Brit-run shacks with dorms to five-star luxury palaces. establishment whose 13 rooms come with oIvy Guesthouse 2 GUESTHOUSE $ TV and DVD. The lively pub downstairs has great grub and hosts regular events to sup- (%012 800860; www.ivy-guesthouse.com; Psar port community causes, including a popular Kandal St; r US$6-15; aiW) An inviting guesthouse with a chill-out area and bar, the quiz night. Ivy is a lively place to stay. The restaurant is oSoria Moria Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ good, with a huge vegetarian selection and US$1 ‘Tapas Fridays’. (%063-964768; www.thesoriamoria.com; Wat Bo Rd; r US$39-63; aiWs) S A hotel with a heart, promoting local causes to help the Mad Monkey HOSTEL $ community, this boutique place has attrac- (www.madmonkeyhostels.com; Sivatha St; dm US$7-9, r US$16-26; aiW) The Siem Reap tive rooms with smart bathroom fittings. outpost of an expanding Monkey business, There’s a fusion restaurant downstairs, sky this is a classic backpacker crashpad with hot-tub upstairs and a new swimming pool. several dorms, good-value rooms for those Half the hotel was transferred to staff own- wanting privacy, and the obligatory rooftop ership in 2011, a visionary move. bar, only this one’s a beach bar! Viroth’s Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%063-766107; www.viroth-hotel.com; St 24; r Funky Flashpacker HOSTEL $ from US$86; aiWs) The new Viroth’s is (%070 221524; www.funkyflashpacker.com; Funky Lane; dm US$7, r US$16-35; aiWs) This an ultra-stylish, retro-chic property with 30 upscale backpackers has a funky vibe – the rooms fitted out with classy contemporary entire downstairs courtyard is taken up with furnishings. Behind the impressive facade a swimming pool where regular bouts of wa- lies a 30m swimming pool, a gym and a spa. ter polo take place. A great hostel, but not The original seven-bedroom hotel is still op- ideal for recovering partyholics as there’s erating as Viroth’s Villa. always a buzz about the place.

422 HanumanAlaya BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ Mani has won several international awards (%063-760582; www.hanumanalaya.com; 5 Krom for responsible tourism practices and hosts 2, Phoum Treang, just off Charles de Gaulle Blvd; r a regular ‘Well Made in Cambodia’ market. US$60-100; aiWs) The most traditionally Cambodian of the boutique hotels in town, 5 Eating HanumanAlaya is set around a lush garden and pretty swimming pool. Rooms are dec- Noteworthy restaurants are sprinkled all orated with antiques and handicrafts but around town but Siem Reap’s culinary heart include modern touches such as flat-screen is the Psar Chaa area, whose focal point, the TV, minibar and safe. Alley, is literally lined with mellow eateries offering great atmosphere. Steung Siem Reap Hotel HOTEL $$ (%063-965167; www.steungsiemreaphotel.com; There are some good restaurants that near Psar Chaa; r from US$65; aiWs) In support worthy causes or help train Cam- keeping with the French colonial–era leg- bodia’s future hospitality staff with a subsi- acy around Psar Chaa, this hotel has high dised ticket into the tourism industry. ceilings, louvre shutters and wrought-iron balconies. Three-star rooms feature smart For self-caterers, markets have fresh pro- duce. Angkor Market (Sivatha St) has inter- national treats such as olives and cheeses. Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap wooden trim. The location is hard to beat. oMarum INETRNATIONAL $ oLa Résidence d’Angkor RESORT $$$ (www.marum-restaurant.org; Wat Polanka area; mains US$3.25-6.75; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; (%063-963390; www.residencedangkor.com; Wv) S Set in a delightful wooden house Siem Reap River Rd; r from US$220; aiWs) The 54 wood-appointed rooms, among the with a spacious garden, Marum serves up lots of vegetarian and seafood dishes, plus most tasteful and inviting in town, come some mouth-watering desserts. Menu high- with verandas and huge Jacuzzi-sized tubs. The gorgeous swimming pool is perfect for lights include red-tree-ant fritters and gin- ger basil meatballs. Marum is part of the laps. The newer wing is ultra-contemporary, Tree Alliance group of training restaurants; as is the sumptuous Kong Kea Spa. the experience is a must. Shinta Mani RESORT $$$ oHaven FUSION $ (%063-761998; www.shintamani.com; Oum Khun St; r US$140-305; aiWs) S With a con- (%078 342404; www.haven-cambodia.com; Choc- olate Rd; mains US$3-7; h11.30am-2.30pm & temporary chic design by renowned archi- 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat; W) S A culinary haven tect Bill Bensley, Shinta Mani Resort features an inviting central pool, while Shinta Mani indeed, dine here for the best of east meets west; the fish fillet with green mango is par- Club offers more exclusive rooms. Shinta ticularly zesty. Proceeds go towards helping young adult orphans make the step from institution to employment. It recently relo- FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON cated to the Wat Dam Nak area, just near ANGKOR Angkor High School. Angkor is the ultimate backdrop for Bugs Cafe INSECTS $ a zipline experience in Asia, although (%017 764560; www.bugs-cafe.com; Steung Thmei you won’t actually see the temples St; US$2-8; h5pm-midnight; W) Cambodians while navigating the course. Flight of were on to insects long before the food sci- the Gibbon Angkor (%096 9999101; entists started bugging us about the merits www.treetopasia.com; near Ta Nei Temple, of critters. Choose from a veritable feast of Angkor; per person US$109; h7am-5pm) crickets, water bugs, silkworms and spiders. is inside the Angkor protected area and Bee cream soup, feta and tarantula samosas, the course includes 10 ziplines, 21 tree- and pan-fried scorpions – you won’t forget top platforms, four skybridges and an this menu in a hurry. abseil finish. A conservation element is included in the project with a family Blossom Cafe CAFE $ of gibbons released in the surrounding (www.blossomcakes.org; St 6; cupcakes US$1.50; forest. The price includes a transfer to/ h10am-5pm Mon-Sat; W) S Cupcakes are ele- from any Siem Reap hotel, plus a lunch vated to an art form at this elegant cafe, with before or after the trip near Sra Srang. beautiful creations available in a rotating array of 48 flavours. Creative coffees, teas

423 HEARTBEAT OF CAMBODIA The largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, Tonlé Sap is an incredible natural phenom- enon that provides fish and irrigation water for half of Cambodia’s population. The lake is linked to the Mekong at Phnom Penh by a 100km-long channel, the Tonlé Sap River. From June to October (the wet season), rains raise the level of the Mekong, backing up the Tonlé Sap River and causing it to flow northwest into the Tonlé Sap Lake. During this period, the lake swells from 2500 sq km to 13,000 sq km or more, its maxi- mum depth increasing from about 2.2m to more than 10m. Around the start of October, as the water level of the Mekong begins to fall, the Tonlé Sap River reverses its flow, draining the waters of the lake back into the Mekong. This extraordinary process makes the Tonlé Sap one of the world’s richest sources of freshwater fish and an ideal habitat for waterbirds. The Tonlé Sap is located just 11km from Siem Reap town. It is possible to visit the float- ing village of Chong Kneas, and the stilted village and flooded forests of Kompong Pluk, as half-day trips. Or you can visit Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary as a long day trip from Siem Reap. and juices are also on offer and profits assist Cambodian BBQ BARBECUE $$ Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap Cambodian women in vocational training. (www.restaurant-siemreap.com/html/cambodian bbq.php; The Alley; mains US$5-9; h11am-11pm; Pages Cafe CAFE $ W) Crocodile, snake, ostrich and kangaroo (%092 966812; www.pages-siemreap.com; St 24; US$2-6; h6am-10pm; W) This hip little hide- meat add an exotic twist to the traditional phnom pleung (hill of fire) grills. Cambodi- away is no longer so hidden with the new Vi- an BBQ has spawned half a dozen or more roth’s Hotel opposite. Exposed brickwork and designer decor make it a good place to linger copycats in the surrounding streets, many of which offer discount specials. over the excellent breakfasts or light tapas bites. On Saturdays it offers an outdoor grill oCuisine Wat Damnak with and pool access. Rooms also available. CAMBODIAN $$$ (www.cuisinewatdamnak.com; Wat Dam Nak vil- lage; 5-course menu US$24, 6-course menu US$28; Banllé Vegetarian Restaurant VEGETARIAN $ h6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, last orders 9.30pm) Set (%085 330160; www.banlle-vegetarian.com; St 26; in a traditional wooden house is this highly US$2-4; h9am-9.30pm, closed Tue; Wv) Set regarded restaurant from Siem Reap celeb in a traditional wooden house with its own chef Joannes Riviere. The menu delivers a vegetable garden, this is a great place for a contemporary Khmer dining experience. healthy bite. The menu offers international Seasonal set menus focus on market-fresh and Cambodian dishes, including a vegetable ingredients and change weekly; vegetarian amoc, and zesty fruit and vegetable shakes. options are available with advance notice. Sugar Palm CAMBODIAN $$ 6 Drinking (www.sugarpalmrestaurant.com; Taphul St; mains US$5-9; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Sat; Siem Reap is now firmly on Southeast Asia’s W) Set in a beautiful wooden house, the nightlife map, with many of the most inter- Sugar Palm is the place to sample tradition- esting places situated in the vicinity of Psar al flavours, including delicious char kreung Chaa, on or near Pub St. (curried lemongrass) dishes. Owner Kethana showed celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay how to oCharlie’s BAR prepare amoc (baked fish). (www.charliessiemreap.com; 98 Pithnou St; h10am-1am; W) A cracking retro America- Red Piano ASIAN, INTERNATIONAL $$ na bar with cheap drinks and a convivial (www.redpianocambodia.com; Pub St; mains US$3- 10; W) Set in a restored colonial gem, Red crowd. This is the missing link between the more sophisticated bars around the alley- Piano has a big balcony for watching the ac- ways and the madness unfolding nightly on tion unfold below. The menu has a selection of Asian and international food, all at decent Pub St. Food optional, shots obligatory. prices. Former celebrity guest Angelina Jolie oLaundry Bar BAR has a cocktail named in her honour. (St 9; h4pm-late; W) One of the most chilled bars in town thanks to low lighting and

424 3 Entertainment discerning decor, this is the place to come for electronica and ambient sounds. It Classical dance shows take place all over heaves on weekends or when guest DJs town, but only a few are worth considering. crank up the volume. Happy hour until 9pm. Miss Wong BAR Plae Pakaa PERFORMING ARTS (www.misswong.net; The Lane; h5pm-late; W) (%099 516580; www.cambodianlivingarts.org; Artisans Angkor - Les Chantiers Écoles; adult/child Miss Wong carries you back to the chic of US$15/6; h7pm Mon-Sat) S Plae Pakaa is a 1920s Shanghai. The cocktails are a draw here, making it a cool place to while away an series of traditional dance performances hosted by the talented dancers of Cambodi- evening, with a new menu offering dim sum. an Living Arts. Originating in Phnom Penh, Gay-friendly and extremely popular with the well-heeled expat crowd. the show now runs at Artisans Angkor dur- ing high season from November to the end of March, but there may also be a reduced Asana BAR schedule during the low season. (www.asana-cambodia.com; The Lane; h11am- late; W) Also known as the wooden house, this is a traditional Cambodian countryside Temple Club DANCE home dropped into the backstreets of Siem (Pub St; W) Temple Club stages a free tra- Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap ditional dance show upstairs from 7.30pm, Reap, which makes for an atmospheric place providing punters order some food and to drink. Lounge on capok (fibre)-filled rice sacks over a classic cocktail made with in- drink from the reasonably priced menu. fused rice wine. Khmer cocktail classes with 7 Shopping Sombai spirits available at US$15 per person. Siem Reap has an excellent selection of YOLO Bar BAR Cambodian-made handicrafts. Psar Chaa is well stocked with anything you may want to (Wat Prohm Roth St; h5pm-late; W) A popular buy in Cambodia, and lots you don’t. There backpacker bar down a side street, YOLO are bargains to be had if you haggle patient- specialises in cheap cocktails by the bucket- ly and humorously. Angkor Night Market load (quite literally) and DIY tunes played (www.angkornightmarket.com; h4pm-midnight) through its open table laptop. Give it a try... is packed with silks, handicrafts and sou- after all, you only live once. venirs. Up-and-coming Alley West is also a great strip to browse. ROLL UP, ROLL UP, THE CIRCUS HAS COME TO TOWN A number of shops support Cambodia’s disabled and disenfranchised. Cambodia’s answer to Cirque du Soleil, Artisans Angkor ARTS & CRAFTS Phare the Cambodian Circus (%015 499480; www.pharecambodian (www.artisansdangkor.com; h7.30am-6.30pm) circus.org; west end of Sok San Rd; adult/ S On the premises of Les Chantiers Écoles child US$18/10, premium seats US$35/18; (p418) is this beautiful shop, which sells h8pm daily) is so much more than a everything from stone and wood reproduc- conventional circus, with an emphasis tions of Angkorian-era statues to household on performance art. Phare Ponleu furnishings. There’s also a second shop Selpak, Cambodia’s leading circus, opposite Angkor Wat in the Angkor Cafe theatre and performing arts organisa- building, and outlets at Phnom Penh and tion, stages nightly shows at its big top Siem Reap international airports. and several past stars have gone on to perform in international shows around Rajana ARTS & CRAFTS the world. It’s an inspiring night out for adults and children alike and Phare re- (%063-964744; www.rajanacrafts.org; Sivatha St; invests all proceeds into Phare Ponleu h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) S Sells quirky wooden Selpak activities. Animal lovers will be and metalwork objects, well-designed silver pleased to note there are no animals jewellery and handmade cards. Rajana pro- used in any performance. motes fair-trade employment opportunities for Cambodians. Samatoa CLOTHING (%063-965310; www.samatoa.com; St 26; h8am- 11pm) S If you find yourself in need of a party frock, this designer dress shop offers

425 original threads in silk, with the option of SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES a tailored fit in 48 hours. Samatoa employs ONLINE fair-trade practices. ConCERT (www.concertcambodia.org) Senteurs d’Angkor HANDICRAFTS Siem Reap–based organisation ‘con- necting communities, environment and (%063-964860; Pithnou St; h8.30am-9.30pm) responsible tourism’. S Opposite Psar Chaa, this shop has an ec- lectic collection of silk and carvings, as well Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ as a superb range of traditional beauty prod- cambodia) Information on travelling to ucts and spices, all made locally. It targets and within Cambodia, the Thorn Tree rural poor and disadvantaged Cambodians Travel Forum and up-to-date travel news. for jobs and training, and sources local prod- ucts from farmers. Visit its Botanic Garden Angkor – Unesco World Heritage (Airport Rd; h7.30am-5.30pm) on Airport Rd, a Site (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/668) sort of Willy Wonka’s for the senses, where Information, images and videos on the you can sample infused teas and speciality world’s top temples. coffees. Phnom Penh Post (www.phnompenh Smateria ACCESSORIES post.com) The online version of Cambo- Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) S i e m R e ap dia’s newspaper of record. (www.smateria.com; AlleyWest; h10am-10pm) S Recycling rocks here with bags made from Sam Veasna Center (www.samveasna. construction nets, plastic bags, motorbike org) The best source of information on seat covers and more. Fair-trade enterprise sustainable bird-watching trips in the employing some disabled Cambodians. Siem Reap and Angkor area. 88 Information west of the town centre. Vietnam Airlines (and its partner airline Cambodia Angkor Air) offers Pick up the free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide up to six daily connections between Siem Reap (www.canbypublications.com) or the handy Din- and HCMC, up to four daily connections with ing & Drinking and Out & About guides produced Hanoi, and one daily flight to/from Danang. by Pocket Guide Cambodia (www.cambodia There are also three flights a week connecting pocketguide.com). Siem Reap with the popular island of Phu Quoc. There are ATMs at the airport and in banks and BUS minimarts all over central Siem Reap, especially Most travellers use international buses between along Sivatha St. There are also a few internet HCMC and Phnom Penh, crossing at the Moc Bai shops along Sivatha St. (Vietnam)–Bavet (Cambodia) border. Buses take Royal Angkor International Hospital (% 063- about six hours or so, including border-crossing 761888; www.royalangkorhospital.com; Airport formalities. Tickets usually cost US$10 to US$15. Rd) This international facility affiliated with the Regular services run throughout the day between Bangkok Hospital is on the expensive side as 6am and about 3pm in both directions. Buses it’s used to dealing with insurance companies. leave from the Pham Ngu Lao area of Ho Chi Minh Tourist Police (% 012 402424) Located at the City. In Phnom Penh, they arrive and depart from main ticket checkpoint for the Angkor area, this various bus offices around the city, including the is the place to lodge a complaint if you encoun- offices of the following popular operators: ter any serious problems while in Siem Reap. Capitol Tour (% 023-724104; 14 St 182) Mekong Express (% 023-427518; http://cat 88 Getting There & Away mekongexpress.com; 2020 NH5) Sapaco (% 023-210300; www.sapacotourist. There are two main options for travelling between com; 309 Sihanouk Blvd) Vietnam and Cambodia. Air travel is more con- venient, with daily flight connections between Ho It is possible to connect the same day changing Chi Minh City (HCMC), Hanoi and Siem Reap, plus buses in Phnom Penh, but it’s easier travelling less frequent flights from Danang. Road travel is a from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap rather than more daunting prospect as it takes an entire day travelling in the other direction, as Phnom Penh to to travel direct between HCMC and Siem Reap, Siem Reap services operate later in the afternoon. including a change of bus in Phnom Penh. How- ever, it is easy enough to break the journey in the Tickets between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh lively Cambodian capital for a night or two. (six hours) cost US$6 to US$15, depending on the level of service (air-con, leg room, a toilet, a AIR host). There are also several night buses Siem Reap International Airport (% 063- 761261; www.cambodia-airports.com) is 7km

426 Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) TAGenmtgptklionergsWAoarftoAunngdkor boasted a population of nearly one million, while London was still an insignificant town VISAS FOR CAMBODIA of just 50,000. The houses, public buildings and palaces of Angkor were constructed For most nationalities, one-month tourist of wood – now long decayed – because the visas (US$30) are available on arrival at right to dwell in structures of brick or stone Siem Reap and Phnom Penh airports, was reserved for the gods. as well as all land border crossings. One passport-sized photo is required. Angkor is one of the most impressive an- One-month tourist e-visas (US$30 plus cient sites on earth, the eighth wonder of the a US$5 processing fee) are available at world, with the epic proportions of the Great www.mfaic.gov.kh. They take three busi- Wall of China, the detail and intricacy of the ness days to issue and are valid for entry Taj Mahal, and the symbolism and symmetry to Cambodia at the airports and the Bavet– of the Egyptian Pyramids, all rolled into one. Moc Bai border crossing with Vietnam. Angkor Wat Anyone planning to take a side trip to the temples of Angkor and then return The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat to Vietnam will need a multiple-entry Vietnam visa or will need to arrange (អងគ្រវត្ត; admission to all of Angkor 1 day/3 days/ another visa while in Cambodia. 1 week US$20/40/60; h5am-5.30pm), the ulti- between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, which mate expression of Khmer genius, is stag- could be useful for those in a hurry. gering, matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Peru’s Machu Picchu or In Siem Reap, all buses depart from the bus Jordan’s Petra. station, which is 3km east of town and about 1km south of NH6. Tickets are available at Soaring skyward and surrounded by a guesthouses, hotels, bus offices, travel agen- moat that would make its European castle cies and ticket kiosks. Some bus companies counterparts blush, Angkor Wat is one of the send a minibus around to pick up passengers at most inspired and spectacular monuments their place of lodging. Be prepared for a rugby ever conceived by the human mind. It is a scrum of eager moto (motorbike taxi) drivers sumptuous blend of form and function, a when you get off the bus in Siem Reap. spellbinding shrine to Vishnu, its captivating image replicated in the reflective pools below. 88 Getting Around Like the other temple-mountains of From the airport to the centre of Siem Reap, an Angkor, Angkor Wat replicates the spatial official taxi costs US$9, while remork-motos (tuk universe in miniature. The central tower tuks) cost US$7. From the bus station, a moto to is Mt Meru, with its surrounding smaller the city centre should cost about US$1, while a peaks, bounded in turn by continents (the remork will be around US$3. lower courtyards) and the oceans (the moat). The seven-headed naga (mythical serpent) Short moto trips around the centre of town cost serves as a symbolic rainbow bridge for hu- 2000r or 3000r (US$1 at night). A remork should mans to reach the abode of the gods. be about double that, more with lots of people. Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat, TEMPLES OF ANGKOR 190m wide, which forms a giant rectan- gle measuring 1.5km by 1.3km. Stretching Angkor is, quite literally, heaven on earth. It around the outside of the central temple is the earthly representation of Mt Meru, the complex is an 800m-long series of incredible Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode bas-reliefs that are designed to be viewed in of ancient gods. Angkor is the perfect fusion an anticlockwise direction. Rising 31m above of creative ambition and spiritual devotion. the third level (and situated 55m above the The Cambodian ‘god-kings’ of old each strove ground) is the central tower, which gives the to better their ancestors in size, scale and whole ensemble its sublime unity. symmetry, culminating in the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat was built by Suryavarman II (r 1112–52), who unified Cambodia and The hundreds of temples surviving to- extended Khmer influence across much of day are but the sacred skeleton of the vast mainland Southeast Asia. He also set himself political, religious and social centre of the apart religiously from earlier kings by his de- ancient Khmer empire. At its zenith Angkor votion to the Hindu deity Vishnu, to whom he consecrated the temple – built, coincidentally,

427 Temples of Angkor e# 0 5 km AB 0 2.5 miles C D Banteay Angkor Thom Ú# 7 Ú# 8 DSrei (23km) North Gate Dykes Angkor Thom Victory Gate ANGKOR # 1 THOM 11 #ä Ø#15 Eastern Baray 1 Angkor Thom 4 Þ# ä# 10 # Angkor Thom West Gate# East Gate # Western Baray 2 #ÚBayon SieRmivReerap 3 #Ú Ta Prohm Angkor Thom South Gate# 6 Þ# 2 Siem Reap LittGleraCnirdcuCiitrcuit 2 #– International 1 Airport Þ# Angkor Wat Royal Angkor Dykes Airport International ï#17 Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) GTAenmtgptklionergsTAohrfooAmunngdkor Hospital #ñ Rd #î 3 5 æ# D 13# SIEM ›#(6km); Bakong (13km); 3 Tonlé Sap Lake (13km); REAP D Phnom Krom (13km) æ# DRoluos Temples (13km); #Ø 9 16 ÿ# Preah Ko (14km) 12 # 14 C A See Siem Reap Map (p420) B Temples of Angkor Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 12 Angkor Golf Resort.................................A3 æ Top Sights 13 Cambodia Vespa Adventures ...............B3 1 Angkor Wat ............................................ B2 14 Cooks in Tuk Tuks ..................................B3 2 Bayon....................................................... B1 15 Flight of the Gibbon Angkor .................. C1 3 Ta Prohm.................................................C1 ÿ Sleeping æ Sights 16 HanumanAlaya .......................................B3 4 Baphuon .................................................. B1 5 Cambodian Cultural Village .................. A3 ï Information 6 Phnom Bakheng .................................... B2 17 Angkor Ticket Checkpoint .....................B3 7 Preah Khan.............................................. B1 8 Preah Neak Poan ....................................C1 9 Senteurs d'Angkor Botanic Garden ..... B3 10 Terrace of the Elephants ....................... B1 11 Terrace of the Leper King ...................... B1 around the same time as European Gothic ca- demons and 54 gods engaged in an epic tug thedrals such as Notre Dame and Chartres. of war on the causeway. Each of the gates – North, South, East, West and Victory – tow- The upper level of Angkor Wat, known ers above the visitor, the magnanimous faces as Bakan, is once again open to modern of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara staring out pilgrims, but visits are strictly timed to 20 over the kingdom. Imagine being a peasant in minutes. the 13th century approaching the forbidding capital for the first time? It would have been Angkor Thom an awe-inspiring yet unsettling experience to enter such a gateway and come face-to-face It is hard to imagine any building bigger or with the divine power of the god-kings. more beautiful than Angkor Wat, but at Ang­ kor Thom the sum of the parts add up to a The last great capital of the Khmer em- greater whole. It is the gates that grab you pire, Angkor Thom – set over 10 sq km – first, flanked by a monumental representa- took monumental to a whole new level. It tion of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, 54 was built in part as a reaction to the surprise

Temples of CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES © Angkor MICK ELMORE / GETTY IMAGES © THREE-DAY EXPLORATION Bayon The surreal state temple of legendary king Jayavarman VII, The temple complex at Angkor is simply where 216 faces bear down on pilgrims, asserting religious enormous and the superlatives don’t do and regal authority. it justice. This is the site of the world’s largest religious building, a multitude of Terrace of the temples and a vast, long-abandoned walled Leper King city that was arguably Southeast Asia’s first metropolis, long before Bangkok and Preah Singapore got in on the action. Palilay Starting at the Roluos group of temples, West Gate Phimeanakas one of the earliest capitals of Angkor, Angkor Thom Temple Tep Pranam move on to the big circuit, which includes the Buddhist-Hindu fusion temple of Baphuon Terrace 1 Preah Khan and the ornate water Temple of the temple of 2 Preah Neak Poan. Elephants On the second day downsize to the small 7 circuit, starting with an early visit to 3 Ta Prohm, before continuing to the temple South Gate pyramid of Ta Keo, the Buddhist monastery Angkor Thom of Banteay Kdei and the immense royal bathing pond of 4 Sra Srang. Phnom Baksei Bakheng Chamrong Next venture further afield to Banteay Srei temple, the jewel in the crown of 5 Angkorian art, and Beng Mealea, a remote jungle temple. Angkor Wat The world’s largest religious building. Experience Saving the biggest and best until last, sunrise at the holiest of holies, then explore the experience sunrise at 5 Angkor Wat and beautiful bas-reliefs – devotion etched in stone. stick around for breakfast in the temple to discover its amazing architecture without ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES © the crowds. In the afternoon, explore JOHN BANAGAN / GETTY IMAGES © 6 Angkor Thom, an immense complex that is home to the enigmatic 7 Bayon. Three days around Angkor? That’s just for starters. TOP TIPS » Dodging the Crowds To avoid the hordes, try dawn at Sra Srang, post sunrise at Angkor Wat, and lunchtime at Banteay Srei. » Extended Explorations Three- day passes can be used on non- consecutive days over the period of a week but be sure to request this.

ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES © ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES © CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES © Angkor Thom Preah Khan Preah Neak The last great capital of the Khmer empire A fusion temple dedicated to Buddha, Brahma, Poan conceals a wealth of temples and its epic Shiva and Vishnu; the immense corridors are If Vegas ever adopts proportions would have inspired and terried like an unending hall of mirrors. the Angkor theme, in equal measure. this will be the swim- North Gate, 1 ming pool; a petite Angkor Thom tower set in a lake, surrounded by four smaller ponds. Preah 2 Pithu Prasat Thommanon Suor Prat Temple East Gate Angkor Thom 6 Victory Ta Nei Gate Angkor Temple Thom Chau Say Ta Keo Tevoda Temple Banteay Srei 3 Banteay Kdei Temple Roluos, 4 Beng Mealea Ta Prohm Prasat Bat Chum Nicknamed the Tomb Raider temple; Indiana Jones Kravan Temple would be equally apt. Nature has run riot, leaving iconic tree roots strangling the surviving stones. Sra Srang Once the royal bathing pond, this is the ablutions pool to beat all ablutions pools and makes a good stop for sunrise or sunset. ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / GETTY IMAGES © ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES ©

Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) GT e mtptli negs AorfoAunngdkor430 EXPLORING THE TEMPLES Itinerary If you have only one day to visit Angkor, arrive at Angkor Wat in time for sunrise and then stick around to explore the mighty temple in the post-sunrise quiet. From there continue to the tree roots of Ta Prohm before lunch. In the afternoon, explore the tem- ples within the walled city of Angkor Thom and the beauty of the Bayon in the late- afternoon light. If you have three days, follow up the first action-packed day by beating the tourists to beautiful Banteay Srei, with a quick stop at Preah Khan along the way. Then make your way to the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean. On the third day, head out to the Roluos area and then on to the massive jungle temple of Beng Mealea. Or reverse the order and build up to the biggest temples. For those with a week, continue the three-day itinerary with a visit to the remote tem- ple of Koh Ker. Tickets The ticket checkpoint is on the road from Siem Reap to Angkor. Visitors have the choice of a one-day pass (US$20), a three-day pass (US$40) or a one-week pass (US$60). The three-day passes can be used over three non-consecutive days in a one-week period. Tickets issued after 5pm (for sunset viewing) are valid the next day. Tickets are not valid for Phnom Kulen, Beng Mealea or Koh Ker. Get caught ticketless in a temple and you’ll be fined US$100. Eating All the major temples have some sort of nourishment near the entrance. The most ex- tensive selection of restaurants is opposite the entrance to Angkor Wat. Some excellent local Khmer restaurants line the northern shore of Sra Srang, the royal bathing pond. Transport Bicycles are a great way to get to and around the temples, which are linked by good, flat roads. Various guesthouses and hotels rent out White Bicycles, (www.thewhitebicycles. org; per day US$2) proceeds of which go to local development projects. Motos are a popular form of transport around the temples (around US$10 per day, more for distant sites). Drivers accost visitors from the moment they set foot in Siem Reap, but they’re often knowledgeable and friendly. Remorks (around US$15 a day, more for distant sites) take a little longer than mo- tos but offer protection from the rain and sun. Even more protection is offered by cars (about US$30 a day, more for distant sites), though these tend to isolate you from the sights, sounds and smells. Hiring a car will cost about US$50 to Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei, and about US$70 to Beng Mealea. Tours Most visitors are in Siem Reap to tour the temples of Angkor and there are a number of tour operators ready to guide you around. The Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Associa- tion (%063-964347; www.khmerangkortourguide.com) can arrange certified tour guides in 10 languages for US$25 to US$50 a day. Beyond (www.beyonduniqueescapes.com) Responsible operator offering tours to Beng Mealea and Kompong Pluk, plus cycling trips and cooking classes. Buffalo Trails (%012 297506; www.buffalotrails-cambodia.com) Ecotours and lifestyle adventures around Siem Reap.

431 sacking of Angkor by the Chams, Jayavar- ed by multi-tiered parasols and attended by man VII (r 1181–1219) decided that his empire mandarins and handmaidens bearing gold would never be vulnerable at home. Beyond and silver utensils. the walls is a moat that would have stopped all but the hardiest invaders in their tracks. Terrace of the Leper King ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE 1 Sights (ទីលាន​ព្រះ​គមង្ល )់ The Terrace of the Leper 1 Bayon King is just north of the Terrace of the Ele- phants. Dating from the late 12th century, it At the heart of Angkor Thom, the 12th-century is a 7m-high platform, on top of which stands a nude, though sexless, statue. The front re- Bayon (បាយន័ ; h7.30am-5.30pm), the mes- taining walls of the terrace are decorated with at least five tiers of meticulously executed merising, if slightly mind-bending, state carvings. On the southern side of the Terrace temple of Jayavarman VII epitomises the of the Leper King, there is access to a hidden creative genius and inflated ego of Cam- terrace with exquisitely preserved carvings. bodia’s most celebrated king. Its 54 Gothic towers are famously decorated with 216 gar- Around Angkor Thom Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) TSAeirgmohputlnsedsAonfgAknogrkTohrom gantuan smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara that bear more than a passing resemblance 1 Sights to the great king himself. Phnom Bakheng HINDU TEMPLE It’s known as the ‘face temple’ thanks to its iconic visages; these huge heads glare (ភន្ បំ ាខែង; h5am-7pm) Located around down from every angle, exuding power with 400m south of Angkor Thom, the main a hint of humanity – precisely the blend re- attraction at Phnom Bakheng is the sun- quired to hold sway over such a vast empire, set view over Angkor Wat. For many years ensuring the disparate and far-flung popula- the whole affair turned into a circus, with tion yielded to the king’smagnanimous will. crowds of tourists ascending the slopes of the hill and jockeying for space. Numbers are The Bayon is decorated with 1.2km of ex- restricted to just 300 visitors at any one time, traordinary bas-reliefs incorporating more so get here early (4pm) to guarantee a sun- than 11,000 figures, depicting everyday life set spot. The temple, built by Yasovarman I in 12th-century Cambodia. (r 889–910), has five tiers, with seven levels. 1 Elsewhere in Angkor Thom Preah Khan BUDDHIST TEMPLE Baphuon HINDU TEMPLE (ពរ្ ះខន័ ធ្ ,SacredSword; h7.30am-5.30pm) The temple of Preah Khan (Sacred Sword) is (បាពួន; h7.30am-5.30pm) Some have called one of the largest complexes at Angkor, a Baphuon the ‘world’s largest jigsaw puzzle’. Before the civil war the Baphuon was pains- maze of vaulted corridors, fine carvings and lichen-clad stonework. It is a good counter- takingly taken apart piece-by-piece by a team point to Ta Prohm and generally sees slightly of archaeologists, but their records were de- stroyed during the Khmer Rouge regime, fewer visitors. Like Ta Prohm it is a place of towered enclosures and shoulder-hugging leaving experts with 300,000 stones to put corridors. Unlike Ta Prohm, however, the back into place. After years of research, this temple has been partially restored. On the temple of Preah Khan is in a reasonable state of preservation thanks to the ongoing western side, the retaining wall of the second restoration efforts of the World Monuments level was fashioned, in the 16th century, into a reclining Buddha 60m in length. Fund (WMF; www.wmf.org). Terrace of the Elephants ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE Preah Neak Poan BUDDHIST TEMPLE (ទលី ានជ​ ល​ដ់ ំរ)ី The 350m-long Terrace of the (ព្រះនាគព​ ័ន,ធ្ Temple of the Intertwined Nagas; h7.30am-5.30pm) The Buddhist temple of Elephants was used as a viewing stand for Preah Neak Poan is a petite yet perfect tem- public ceremonies and served as a base for ple constructed by Jayavarman VII in the the king’s audience hall. Try to imagine the late 12th century. It has a large square pool grandeur of the Khmer empire at its height, surrounded by four smaller square pools. Sit- with infantry, cavalry, horse-drawn chari- uated in the central pool is a circular ‘island’ ots and elephants parading across Central encircled by the two nagas whose inter- Square in a procession, pennants and stand- twined tails give the temple its name. ards aloft. Looking on is the god-king, shad-

432 TA PROHM The ultimate Indiana Jones fantasy, Ta Prohm (តាព្រហម្; h7.30am-5.30pm) is cloaked in dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems. If Angkor Wat is testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm reminds us equally of the awesome fecundity and power of the jungle. There is a poetic cycle to this venerable ruin, with humanity first conquering nature to rapidly create, and nature once again conquering humanity to slowly destroy. Built from 1186 and originally known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, closed courtyards and narrow corridors. Ancient trees tower overhead, their leaves filtering the sunlight and casting a greenish pall over the whole scene. It is the clos- est most of us will get to the discoveries of the explorers of old. Ta Prohm is at its most impressive at dawn before the crowds arrive. It’s located about 2km east of Angkor Thom. Si e m Re a p & th e Te m ple s o f A n g ko r (Ca m bo d ia) STF uei gmrhpttlhse sr oAff i Ae lndgkor Further Afield when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a hermit. 1 Sights Phnom Kulen MOUNTAIN Bakong HINDU TEMPLE (ភគ​្នំ លូ ែន; US$20) Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia, (បាគង; h7.30am-5.30pm) Bakong is the largest, Phnom Kulen is a popular place of pilgrim- most interesting of the Roluos group of tem- ples. Built and dedicated to Shiva by Indra- age on weekends and during festivals. It played a significant role in the history of the varman I, it’s a representation of Mt Meru, Khmer empire, as it was from here in AD and it served as the city’s central temple. The east-facing complex consists of a five-tier 802 that Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king), giving birth to the central pyramid of sandstone, 60m square at Cambodian kingdom. Attractions include a the base, flanked by eight towers of brick and sandstone, and by other minor sanctuaries. giant reclining Buddha, hundreds of lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive water- A number of the lower towers are still partly fall and some remote temples. covered by their original plasterwork. oBanteay Srei HINDU TEMPLE Beng Mealea BUDDHIST TEMPLE (បន្ទា យ​ស្រី; h7.30am-5.30pm) Considered by (បឹងមាលា; admission US$5; h7.30am-5.30pm) A sight to behold, Beng Mealea, about 68km many to be the jewel in the crown of Angko- northeast of Siem Reap, is one of the most rian art, Banteay Srei is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well and truly run riot. it’s built to the same stone carving anywhere on earth. Begun in floorplan as Angkor Wat, and exploring this AD 967, it is one of the smallest sites at Ang- kor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for titanic of temples is Angkor’s ultimate Indi- ana Jones experience. Built in the 12th cen- in stature. Banteay Srei is a Hindu temple tury under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is dedicated to Shiva; it’s wonderfully well pre- served and many of its carvings are three- enclosed by a massive moat measuring 1.2km by 900m. dimensional. Kbal Spean HINDU SHRINE Koh Ker HINDU TEMPLE (ក្បាលស​្ពា ន; h7.30am-5.30pm) A spectacular- (កោះ​កេរ; admission US$10; h7.30am-5.30pm) Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh ly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean is set deep in Ker, capital of the Angkorian empire from the jungle to the northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘Riv- AD 928 to 944, is now in day-trip distance of Siem Reap. Most visitors start at Prasat er of a Thousand Lingas’, the name actually Krahom where stone carvings grace lintels, means ‘bridgehead’, a reference to the natu- ral rock bridge at the site. Lingas have been and doorposts. The principal monument is Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, elaborately carved into the riverbed, and im- 40m-high sandstone pyramid whose seven ages of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. Kbal Spean was ‘discovered’ in 1969, tiers offer spectacular views across the forest. Koh Ker is 127km northeast of Siem Reap.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Understand Vietnam VIETNAM TODAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 The Vietnamese economy continues to grow, while the nation grapples with a changing tourism scene and uneasy relations with its neighbours. HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Vietnam’s history has been a near-endless task of taking on and repelling invaders from the east and west. PEOPLE & CULTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 Perhaps the most diverse country in Southeast Asia, Vietnam is home to an incredible blend of people and cultures. ARTS & ARCHITECTURE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 A fascinating heritage, drawing on influences from China, India and France to form something uniquely Vietnamese. FOOD & DRINK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 With everything from crunchy spring rolls to fresh beer, you’ll never go hungry or thirsty in Vietnam. ENVIRONMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Vietnam is endowed with stunning landscapes, but environmental awareness is in its infancy.

4 34 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Vietnam Today A period of rising, sustained growth has transformed Vietnam. Change is most apparent in the big cities, where steel-and glass highrises define skylines and a burgeoning middle class now has the spending power to enjoy air-conditioned living and overseas travel. Yet, in rural areas the nation’s new-found prosperity is less evident, and up the highlands, life remains a day-to-day struggle for millions of minority people. Best in Print The Big Picture The Quiet American (Graham Greene) Classic novel set in the 1950s Forty years since the end of the American War, Vietnam as the French empire is collapsing. has made giant strides. A victorious, though bankrupt, The Sorrow of War (Bao Ninh) The nation has worked around the clock, slogging its way North Vietnamese perspective, retold forward, overcoming a series of formidable hurdles (in- in novel form via flashbacks. cluding a 19-year US trade embargo). Per-capita income Vietnam: Rising Dragon (Bill Hayton) has grown from US$98 in 1993 to over US$2000 by A candid, highly insightful assessment 2015, and today Vietnam is one of the 10 fastest-growing of the nation. economies in the world, boosted by strong manufactur- Catfish & Mandala (Andrew X ing. Start-up business numbers are booming. And yet Pham) Beautifully written and this rapid development is disjointed. The state sector thought-provoking biographical tale of remains huge, controlling around two-fifths of the econ- a Vietnamese-American who returns omy – 100 of the 200 biggest Vietnamese companies are to his homeland. state owned (including oil production, shipbuilding, c­ ement and coal). Best on Film Apocalypse Now (1979) The Ameri- The spectre of corruption casts a shadow over develop- can War depicted as an epic ‘heart of ment every step of the way. Transparency Intern­ ational darkness’ adventure. ranked Vietnam the lowest of all the Asia-­Pacific coun- The Deer Hunter (1978) Examines tries it measured in 2014. Corruption s­candals emerge the emotional breakdown suffered by on a daily basis, such as the nine Vinashin shipbuilding small-town servicemen. execs jailed following the company’s near collapse under Platoon (1986) Based on the first- US$4.5 billion of debt. For most Vietnamese people cor- hand experiences of the director, ruption is simply a part of day-to-day life, as they have Oliver Stone, it follows idealistic to pay backhanders for everything from securing a civil volunteer Charlie Sheen to ‘Nam. service job to an internet connection. Cyclo (Xich Lo; 1995) Visually stun- ning masterpiece that cuts to the core Tourism Woes: a Blip or a Trend? of HCMC’s underworld. The Quiet American (2002) Atmos- In mid-2015, the Vietnamese government did what its pherically set in Saigon during the tourism industry had been urging them to do for years – French colonial period, with rebellion it (partially) relaxed visa regulations, allowing easier in the air. a­ccess to the country for several European nationali- ties. After years of exponential growth, tourist arrivals were on the slide, with a knock-on effect for the nation’s important service sector. Further visa reforms may or may not boost tourism. The reasons for the down- turn, and whether it’s a blip or a long-term trend, are

­complex. Falling visitor numbers from Russia (due to 435 the collapse of the rouble) and China (due to political POPULATION: 94.3 MILLION t­ensions) were particularly evident. LIFE EXPECTANCY: 71 FOR MEN, 76 FOR WOMEN As tourism chiefs pondered the stats, an EU-­ INFANT MORTALITY: 18 PER funded study found that just 6% of tourists surveyed 1000 BIRTHS said they would want to return to Vietnam, provok- GDP GROWTH: 6.3% ing a barrage of newspaper headlines. The clearly INFLATION: 1.3% alarmed Vietnam Tourism authority quickly ordered ADULT LITERACY RATE: 93% a counter-­survey (which suggested higher approval ratings). But an underlying message was clear: over- if Vietnam were seas visitors considered road transport dangerous 100 people and the nation’s infrastructure poor, felt hassled by street vendors and overcharged by shopkeepers, and were frustrated by the lack of reliable travel infor- mation. There’s clearly work to be done, not least by Vietnam Tourism, which critics allege is far too con- cerned with pedalling tours for profit than dispensing independent advice to travellers. Uneasy Neighbours 86 would be Kinh 2 would be Tay 3 would be Thai & Muong 1 would be Hoa On the surface, Vietnam and its northern neighbour 2 would be Khmer Krom 6 would be Other China have much in common, with a shared heritage, common frontier and all-powerful ruling ­Communist belief systems parties. But for the Vietnamese, China represents something of an overbearing big brother (and 1000 (% of population) years of subordination). The nations fought a recent on-off border war that rumbled on for years, only 80 10 6 ending in 1990, and there are concerns that anoth- None Buddhist Catholic er conflict could erupt over offshore islands in the South China Sea (always the ‘East Sea’ in Vietnam). 2 1 1 China claims virtually the whole area, and is busy Hoa Hao Cao Dai Other constructing port facilities and airstrips. In May 2014, anti-C­ hinese riots erupted in several provinces, resulting in at least 21 deaths, in response to China deploying an oil rig in the Paracel Islands. Thousands of Chinese nationals fled the country. By November 2015 tensions remained, but the situation had calmed enough for President Xi Jinping to visit Hanoi as the countries sought to repair ties. The two nations have plenty of mutual ground. Trade has continued to boom (though more one-way than the Vietnamese would like) reaching US$58 ­billion in 2014 and Chinese is the second most pop- ular foreign language studied in Vietnam. Ultimately, Presidents Trong and Xi signed various cooperation agreements concerning investment and infrastruc- ture but little progress was evident over territorial disputes. population per sq km VIETNAM UK USA ≈ 30 people

4 36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd History The Vietnamese trace their roots back to the Red River Delta where farmers first c­ ultivated rice. Millennia of struggle against the Chinese then followed. Vietnam only became a united state in the 19th century, but quickly faced the ignominy of French c­olonialism and then the devastation of the American intervention. The Vietnamese n­ ation has survived tempestuous, troubled times, but its strength of character has served it well. Today, the signs are it’s continuing to grow with some promise. Archaeologists To get an idea of Vietnam’s turbulent history all you have to do is stroll conducting through any town in the country and take at look at the street names. Then try it again somewhere else. You’ll soon get déjà vu. The same excavations at names occur again and again, reflecting the national heroes who, over Oc-Eo discovered the last 2000 years, have repelled a succession of foreign invaders. If the a Roman medal- street borders a river, it’ll be called Bach Dang (after the battles of 938 lion dating from and 1288); a principal boulevard will be Le Loi (the emperor who defeat- AD 152, bearing ed the Chinese in 1427). the likeness of The Vietnamese, in the backyard of a giant neighbour, have first and Antoninus Pius. foremost had to deal with China. They’ve been resisting Chinese domi- nation from as far back as the 2nd century BC and had to endure a 1000- year occupation. The struggle to nationhood has been immense. Sure, the American War in Vietnam captured the attention of the West, but for the Vietnamese the Americans were simply the last in a long line of visitors who had come and gone. As far as Ho Chi Minh was concerned, no matter what was required or how long it took, they too would be vanquished. In centuries past, the Khmers, the Mongols and Chams were all de- feated. There was a humbling period of colonialism under the French. As recently as 1979, just after the cataclysmic horrors of the American War, with the country on its knees, Vietnam took on an invading Chinese army – and sent them home in a matter of weeks. Inevitably all these invaders have left their mark. The Chinese brought Buddhism, Taoism and the principles of Confucianism (community above individual and a respect for education and family). The French 2789 BC 2000 BC 300BC The Van Lang kingdom, The Bronze Age Dong Vietnamese people of considered the first in- Son culture emerges the northern region dependent Vietnamese state, is founded by the in the Red River were culturally divided Hung Vuong kings. It’s Delta around Hanoi, between Au Viet (high- referred to by both the renowned for its rice land Vietnamese) and Chin and Tang Chinese cultivation and the pro- Lac Viet (Vietnamese duction of bronzeware, dynasties. including drums and of the plains) who settled the Red River gongs. basin.

437 IN THE BEGINNING… H is to ry T he E arly D ay s Every country has a creation myth and Vietnam is no exception. The Vietnamese are supposed to have descended from a union of Dragon Lord Lac Long Quan and the fairy Au Co. Their relationship was fruitful, producing 100 sons, 50 migrating with their mother to the mountains and the other half travelling with their father to the sea. These sons founded the first Vietnamese dynasty, the Hung, who ruled over the kingdom of Van Lang, whose people were the first to be known as the Lac Viet. introduced railways, and bequeathed some grand architecture and The people of the f­abulous cuisine. And though the Americans left a devastated nation, Bronze Age Dong Vietnamese pride remained intact. Son period were major traders in In recent years, progress has been remarkable, as Vietnam has become the region, and a key member of ASEAN and its economy has boomed – though systemic corruption, creaking infrastructure and an anti-democratic ruling party bronze drums remain. But the country is united and prospering, its borders secure, and from northern the Vietnamese people can look forward to a lasting period of stability ­Vietnam have and progress. been found as far afield as The Early Days the island of Alor, in eastern Humans first inhabited northern Vietnam about 500,000 years ago, though it took until 7000 BC for these hunter gatherers to practise ru- ­Indonesia. dimentary agriculture. The sophisticated Dong Son culture, famous for its bronze moko drums, emerged sometime around the 3rd century BC. The Dong Son period also saw huge advances in rice cultivation and the emergence of the Red River Delta as a major agricultural centre. From the 1st to 6th centuries AD, southern Vietnam was part of the In- dianised Cambodian kingdom of Funan – famous for its refined art and architecture. Based around the walled city of Angkor Borei, it was prob- ably a grouping of feudal states rather than a unified empire. The people of Funan constructed an elaborate system of canals both for transpor- tation and the irrigation of rice. Funan’s principal port city was Oc-Eo in the Mekong Delta, and archaeological excavations here suggest there was contact with China, Indonesia, Persia and even the Mediterranean. Later on, the Chenla empire replaced the Funan kingdom, spreading along the Mekong River. The Hindu kingdom of Champa emerged around present-day Danang in the late 2nd century AD. Like Funan, it adopted Sanskrit as a sacred language and borrowed heavily from Indian art and culture. By the 8th century, Champa had expanded southward to include what is now Nha Trang and Phan Rang. The Cham were a feisty bunch who conducted 250 BC 225–248BC 111 BC AD 40 Van Lang is conquered Female warrior, Trieu The Han emperors of The Trung Sisters (Hai by a Chinese warlord Thi Trinh, described as China annex the Red Ba Trung) vanquish the and a new kingdom River Delta region of known as Au Lac is a giant who rode war Chinese and proclaim established at Co elephants to battle, Vietnam, heralding themselves queens Loa, close to the confronts the Chinese 1000 years of Chinese of an independent for decades until defeat rule. Confucianism pre- Vietnam. modern-day capital of and her suicide in 248. vails as the governing Hanoi. philosophy.

438 H is to ry O ne T ho u sand Years of C hinese O cc u pation raids along the entire coast of Indochina, and thus found themselves For a closer look in a perpetual state of war with the Vietnamese to the north and the at China’s 1000- Khmers to the south. Ultimately this cost them their kingdom, as they year occupation found themselves squeezed between these two great powers. of Vietnam, which was instrumental One Thousand Years in shaping the of Chinese Occupation country’s outlook and attitude The Chinese conquered the Red River Delta in the 2nd century BC. Over today, try The the following centuries, large numbers of Chinese settlers, officials and Birth of Vietnam scholars moved south, seeking to impress a centralised state system on by Keith Weller the Vietnamese. Taylor. In the most famous act of resistance, in AD 40, the Trung Sisters (Hai Ba Trung) rallied the people, raised an army and led a revolt against the Chinese. The Chinese counter-attacked, but, rather than surrender, the Trung Sisters threw themselves into the Hat Giang River. There were numerous small-scale rebellions against Chinese rule – which was char- acterised by tyranny, forced labour and insatiable demands for tribute – from the 3rd to 6th centuries, but all were defeated. However, the early Vietnamese learned much from the Chinese, i­ncluding the advancement of dykes and irrigation works – reinforcing the role of rice as the ‘staff of life’. As food became more plentiful the pop- ulation expanded, forcing the Vietnamese to seek new lands. The Truong Son Mountains prevented westward expansion, as the climate was harsh and the terrain unsuited to rice cultivation, so instead the Vietnamese moved south along the coast. During this era, Vietnam was a key port of call on the sea route b­ etween China and India. The Chinese introduced Confucianism, Tao- ism and Mahayana Buddhism to Vietnam, while the Indian influence brought Theravada Buddhism and Hinduism (to Champa and Funan). Monks carried with them the scientific and medical knowledge of these two great civilisations and Vietnam was soon producing its own doctors, botanists and scholars. Liberation from China In the early 10th century, the Tang dynasty collapsed, provoking the Vietnamese to launch a revolt against Chinese rule. In AD 938, popular patriot Ngo Quyen defeated Chinese forces by luring the Chinese fleet up the Bach Dang River in a feigned retreat, only to counter-attack and impale their ships on sharpened stakes hidden beneath the wa- ters. This ended 1000 years of Chinese rule (though it was not to be the last time the Vietnamese would tussle with their mighty northern neighbour). 166 446 602 938 First contact between Relations between the Rebellions by leaders The Chinese are kicked Rome and China as kingdom of Champa including Ly Bon and out of Vietnam after and the Chinese 1000 years of occu- envoys pass through deteriorate. China Trieu Quang Phuc pation, as Ngo Quyen the Gulf of Tonkin. against Chinese rule leads his people to invades Champa, sacks ultimately fail as the Sui the capital of Sim- dynasty reconquers Vi- victory in the battle of etnam, with its capital the Bach Dang River. hapura and plunders Dai La Thanh (Hanoi). a 50-tonne golden Buddha statue.

439 STREET NAMES IN VIETNAM H is to ry C hina B ites B ack All Vietnamese street names are controlled by an intensely patriotic Communist party. These reflect important dates, battles, heroes and heroines. 30 Thang 4 The date (30th April) Communist forces captured Saigon. Hai Bai Trung Two sisters who lead a revolt against Chinese rule in AD 40. Le Loi Robin Hood–style rebel leader; vanquished the Chinese in 1426. Nguyen Thai Hoc Lead the Yen Bai revolt against the French. Quang Trung Ruthless 18th-century military leader, emperor and reformer. Tran Hunh Dao Defeated Kublai Khan and invading Mongol forces. From the 11th to 13th centuries, Vietnamese independence was consol- The coastal idated under the emperors of the Ly dynasty, founded by Ly Thai To. This Champa king- was a period of progress that saw the introduction of an elaborate dyke system for flood control and cultivation, and the establishment of the doms were country’s first university. During the Ly dynasty, the Chinese, the Khmer predominantly and the Cham launched attacks on Vietnam, but all were repelled. Mean- Hindu, their cul- while, the Vietnamese continued their expansion southwards and slowly ture and religion but surely began to consolidate control of the Cham kingdom. heavily influenced by India. Shiva Bach Dang Again and the earth goddess Lady Po Mongol warrior Kublai Khan completed his conquest of China in the Nagar were two mid-13th century. For his next trick, he planned to attack Champa and principal deities. demanded the right to cross Vietnamese territory. The Vietnamese re- fused, but the Mongol hordes – all 500,000 of them – pushed ahead. They met their match in the revered general Tran Hung Dao. He defeated them at Bach Dang River, utilising acute military acumen by repeating the same tactics (and location) as Ngo Quyen in one of the most celebrat- ed scalps in Vietnamese history. China Bites Back The Chinese took control of Vietnam again in the early 15th century, taking the national archives and some of the country’s intellectuals back to Nanjing – a loss that was to have a lasting impact on Vietnamese civilisation. Heavy taxation and slave labour were also typical of the era. The poet Nguyen Trai (1380–1442) wrote of this period: ‘Were the water of the Eastern Sea to be exhausted, the stain of their ignominy could not be washed away; all the bamboo of the Southern Mountains would not suffice to provide the paper for recording all their crimes’. 1010 1010–1225 1076 1288 Thang Long (City of Under the 200-year Ly The Vietnamese The Mongols invade the Soaring Dragon), dynasty Vietnam main- military, led by General Dai Viet but General known today as Hanoi, tains many institutions Tran Hung Dao repeats is founded by Emperor Ly Thuong, attack the history by spearing and traditions of the Sung Chinese and win the Mongol fleet on Ly Thai To and be- Chinese era including a decisive battle near sharpened stakes on comes the new capital Confucianism and its the Bach Dang River. civil service structure. the present-day city of Vietnam. of Nanning, and later Wet rice cultivation defeat Cham forces. remains vital.

440 H is to ry E nter L e L oi INDEPENDENT, CIVILISED & HEROIC Following the successful 15th-century Le Loi rebellion against Chinese rule, poet Nguyen Trai issued a stirring nationalist declaration that is still quoted in Vietnamese school books and used by politicians today. The Great Proclamation (Binh Ngo Dai Cao) articu- lates the country’s fierce spirit of independence: ‘Our people long ago established Viet- nam as an independent nation with its own civilisation. We have our own mountains and our own rivers, our own customs and traditions, and these are different from those of the foreign country to the north…We have sometimes been weak and sometimes powerful, but at no time have we suffered from a lack of heroes’. Dynasties Enter Le Loi of Vietnam In 1418, wealthy philanthropist Le Loi sparked the Lam Son Uprising Ngo 939–965 AD by refusing to serve as an official for the Chinese Ming dynasty. By 1425, Dinh 968–980 AD local rebellions had erupted in several regions and Le Loi travelled the countryside to rally the people, and eventually defeat the Chinese. Early Le 980–1009 AD Le Loi and his successors launched a campaign to take over Cham Ly 1010–1225 lands to the south, which culminated in the occupation of its capital Tran 1225–1400 Vijaya, near present-day Quy Nhon in 1471. This was the end of Champa Ho 1400–1407 as a military power and the Cham people began to migrate southwards as Vietnamese settlers moved into their territory. Post-Tran 1407–1413 The Coming of the Europeans Chinese rule 1414–1427 The first Portuguese sailors came ashore at Danang in 1516 and were Later Le soon followed by a party of Dominican missionaries. During the follow- 1428–1524 ing decades the Portuguese began to trade with Vietnam, setting up a Mac 1527–1592 commercial colony alongside those of the Japanese and Chinese at Faifo Trinh Lords of the (present-day Hoi An). With the exception of the Philippines, which was North 1539–1787 ruled by the Spanish for 400 years, the Catholic Church has had a greater Nguyen Lords impact on Vietnam than on any country in Asia. of the South 1558–1778 Lording It over the People Tay Son 1788–1802 Nguyen 1802–1945 In a dress rehearsal for the tumultuous events of the 20th century, Viet- nam found itself divided in two throughout much of the 17th and 18th centuries. The powerful Trinh Lords (later Le kings), ruled the North. To the South were the Nguyen Lords. The Trinh failed in their persistent efforts to subdue the Nguyen, in part because their Dutch weaponry was matched by the Portuguese armaments supplied to the Nguyen. By this time, several European nations were interested in Vietnam’s potential and were jockeying for influence. For their part, the Nguyen expanded southwards again, absorbing territories in the Mekong Delta. 14th century 1427 1471 16th century Cham forces led by Le Loi triumphs over The Vietnamese inflict HCMC begins life as king Che Bong Nga kill the Chinese, declaring a humbling defeat humble Prey Nokor, Viet Emperor Tran Due on the kingdom of a backwater Khmer himself emperor, the village in what was then Tong and lay siege to first in the long line Champa, killing more the eastern edge of his capital Thang Long than 60,000 Cham of the Le dynasty. He Cambodia. in 1377 and 1383. is revered as one of soldiers and capturing 36,000, including the the nation’s greatest king and most of the heroes. royal family.

Tay Son Rebellion 441H is to ry Tay S on R ebellion Ho Chi Minh City In 1765, a rebellion erupted in the town of Tay Son near Qui Nhon, (HCMC) began o­ stensibly against the punitive taxes of the Nguyen family. The Tay Son life as humble Rebels, as they were known, were led by the brothers Nguyen, who Prey Nokor in the ­espoused a sort of Robin Hood–like philosophy of take from the rich and 16th century, a redistribute to the poor. It was clearly popular and in less than a decade backwater of a they controlled the whole of central Vietnam. In 1783, they captured Sai- Khmer village in gon and the South, killing the reigning prince and his family. Nguyen what was then Lu became king of the South, while Nguyen Nhac was crowned king of the eastern edge central Vietnam. of Cambodia. Continuing their conquests, the Tay Son Rebels overthrew the Trinh Lords in the North, while the Chinese moved in to take advantage of the One of the most power vacuum. In response, the third brother, Nguyen Hue, proclaimed prominent early himself Emperor Quang Trung. In 1789, Nguyen Hue’s armed forces over- missionaries was whelmingly defeated the Chinese army at Dong Da in another of the greatest hits of Vietnamese history. French Jesuit Alexandre de In the South, Nguyen Anh, a rare survivor from the original Nguyen Rhodes (1591– Lords – yes, know your Nguyens if you hope to understand Vietnam- 1660), widely ese history! – gradually overcame the rebels. In 1802, Nguyen Anh pro- lauded for his claimed himself Emperor Gia Long, thus beginning the Nguyen dynasty. work in devising When he captured Hanoi, his work was complete and, for the first time quoc ngu, the in two centuries, Vietnam was united, with Hue as its new capital city. Latin-based pho- netic alphabet in The Traditionalists Prevail which Vietnamese is written today. Emperor Gia Long returned Vietnam to Confucian values in an effort to consolidate his precarious position, a calculated move to win over con- servative elements of the elite. Gia Long’s son, Emperor Minh Mang, worked to strengthen the state. He was profoundly hostile to Catholicism, which he saw as a threat to Con- fucian traditions, and extended this antipathy to all Western influences. The early Nguyen emperors continued the expansionist policies of the preceding dynasties, pushing into Cambodia and Lao territory. Clashes with Thailand broke out in an attempt to pick apart the skeleton of the fractured Khmer empire. The return to traditional values may have earned support among the elite at home, but the isolation and hostility to the West ultimately cost the Nguyen emperors as they failed to modernise the country quickly enough to compete with the well-armed Europeans. The French Takeover France’s military activity in Vietnam began in 1847, when the French Navy attacked Danang harbour in response to Emperor Thieu Tri’s im- prisonment of Catholic missionaries. Saigon was seized in early 1859 1516 1524 1651 17th century Portuguese traders A period of instability The first quoc ngu Ethnic Vietnamese land at Danang, and warfare ensues as ­(Romanised Vietnam- settlers arrive in the sparking the start of feudal conflicts rage ese) dictionary, the Mekong Delta and European interest in between the Trinh Dict­ionarium Anna- Saigon region, taking miticum Lusitanum et advantage of Khmer Vietnam. They set from the north (Thang Latinum, is produced, weaknesses, who are up a trading post in Long) and the Nguyen following years of work torn apart by internal Faifo (present-day from the South (based by Father Alexandre Hoi An) and introduce strife and Siamese around Hue). de Rhodes. invasions. Catholicism.

442 H is to ry I ndependence A spirations and, in 1862, Emperor Tu Duc signed a treaty that gave the French the Buddhism three eastern provinces of Cochinchina (the southern part of Vietnam during the French-colonial era). However, over the next four decades the flourished during French colonial venture in Indochina faltered repeatedly and, at times, the 17th and 18th only the reckless adventures of a few mavericks kept it going. centuries and In 1872, Jean Dupuis, a merchant seeking to supply salt and weap- many pagodas ons via the Red River, seized the Hanoi Citadel. Captain Francis Garnier, were erected o­ stensibly dispatched to rein in Dupuis, instead took over where Dupuis left off and began a conquest of the North. across the country. However, A few weeks after the death of Tu Duc in 1883, the French attacked Hue and the Treaty of Protectorate was imposed on the imperial court. it was not pure A struggle then began for royal succession that was notable for its Buddhism, but palace coups, the death of emperors in suspicious circumstances and heavy-handed French diplomacy. a peculiarly Vietnamese The French colonial authorities carried out ambitious public works, blend mixed with such as the construction of the Saigon–Hanoi railway and draining of ancestor worship, the Mekong Delta swamps. These projects were funded by heavy govern- animism and ment taxes which had a devastating impact on the rural economy. Such operations became notorious for the abysmal wages paid by the French Taoism. and the appalling treatment of Vietnamese workers. Independence Aspirations Throughout the colonial period, the desire of many Vietnamese for in- dependence simmered below the surface. Nationalist aspirations often erupted into open defiance of the French. This ranged from the publish- ing of patriotic periodicals to a dramatic attempt to poison the French garrison in Hanoi. The imperial court in Hue, although allegedly quite corrupt, was a centre of nationalist sentiment and the French orchestrated a game of musical thrones, as one emperor after another turned against their pa- tronage. This culminated in the accession of Emperor Bao Dai in 1925, who was just 12 years old at the time and studying in France. Leading patriots soon realised that modernisation was the key to an independent Vietnam. Phan Boi Chau launched the Dong Du (Go East) movement which planned to send Vietnamese intellectuals to Japan for study with a view to fomenting a successful uprising in the future. Phan Tru Chinh favoured the education of the masses, the modernisation of the economy and working with the French towards independence. It was at this time that the Roman script of quoc ngu came to prominence, as educators realised this would be a far easier tool with which to educate the masses than the elaborate Chinese-style script of nom. 1765 1802 1862 1883 The Tay Son Rebellion Emperor Gia Long Following French at- The French impose the erupts near Quy Nhon, takes the throne and tacks on both Danang Treaty of Protectorate the Nguyen dynasty and Saigon, Emperor led by the brothers Tu Duc signs a treaty on the Vietnamese, Nguyen; they take is born, ruling over ceding control of the marking the start of control of the whole Vietnam until 1945. The Mekong Delta provinc- 70 years of colonial country over the next es to France, renaming control, although active country is reunited for resistance continues 25 years. the first time in more them Cochinchina throughout this period. than 200 years. (Cochinchine).

443 UNCLE OF THE PEOPLE H is to ry I ndependence A spirations Father of the nation, Ho Chi Minh (Bringer of Light) was the son of a fiercely nationalistic scholar-official. Born Nguyen Tat Thanh near Vinh in 1890, he was educated in Hue and adopted many pseudonyms during his momentous life. Many Vietnamese affectionately refer to him as Bac Ho (‘Uncle Ho’) today. In 1911, he signed up as a cook’s apprentice on a French ship, sailing to North America, Africa and Europe. While odd-jobbing in England and France as a gardener, snow sweep- er, waiter, photo retoucher and stoker, his political consciousness began to develop. Ho Chi Minh moved to Paris, where he mastered a number of languages (including Eng- lish, French, German and Mandarin) and began to promote Indochinese independence. He was a founding member of the French Communist Party in 1920 and later travelled to Guangzhou in China, where he founded the Revolutionary Youth League of Vietnam. During the early 1930s, the English rulers of Hong Kong obliged the French govern- ment by imprisoning Ho for his revolutionary activities. After his release he travelled to the USSR and China. In 1941, he returned to Vietnam for the first time in 30 years, and founded the Viet Minh, the goal of which was the independence of Vietnam. As Japan pre- pared to surrender in August 1945, Ho Chi Minh led the August Revolution, and his forces then established control throughout much of Vietnam. The return of the French compelled the Viet Minh to conduct a guerrilla war, which led to victory against the colonists at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. Ho then led North Vietnam until his death in September 1969 – he never lived to see the North’s victory over the South. The party has worked hard to preserve the reputation of Bac Ho. His image dominates ­contemporary Vietnam – no town is complete without a Ho statue, and most cities have a mu- seum in his name. This cult of personality is in stark contrast to the simplicity with which Ho lived his life. For more Ho, check out Ho Chi Minh, the excellent biography by William J Duiker. Rise of the Communists The most successful of the anti-colonialists were the communists, who were able to tune into the frustrations of the population – especially the peasants – and effectively channel their demands for fairer land distribution. The story of Vietnamese communism, which in many ways is also the political biography of Ho Chi Minh, is convoluted. The first Marxist group- ing in Indochina was the Vietnam Revolutionary Youth League, founded in 1925 by Ho Chi Minh in Canton, China. This was succeeded in February 1930 by the Vietnamese Communist Party. In 1941, Ho formed the Viet Minh, which resisted the Vichy French government, as well as Japanese forces, and carried out extensive political activities during WWII. Despite its nationalist platform, the Viet Minh was, from its inception, dominated by Ho’s communists. However, as well as being a communist, Ho appeared pragmatic and populist and understood the need for national unity. lacteen1tu9rthy 1925 1930–1931 1930s The Romanised quoc Ho Chi Minh moves Nghe Tinh rebellion Marxism gains in ngu alphabet for towards organised against French rule popularity with the political agitation, features strikes and formation of three Vietnamese grows in establishing the Revo- protests by Vietnamese communist parties, popularity as a means lutionary Youth League farmers, workers and which later unite to of Vietnam in southern intellectuals against form the Vietnamese of eradicating illiter- China, an early incarna- the French regime and Communist Party with acy and promoting tion of the Vietnamese Tran Phu as the first education. Traditional Communist Party. local landowners. Secretary General. Chinese-style scripts are phased out.

444 H is to ry W W I I & Famine WWII & Famine Between 1944 When France fell to Nazi Germany in 1940, the Indochinese government and 1945, the Viet of Vichy France–collaborators acquiesced to the presence of Japanese Minh received troops in Vietnam. The Japanese left the French administration in charge of the day-to-day running of the country and, for a time, Vietnam funding and arms was spared the ravages of Japanese occupation. However, as WWII drew from the US to a close, Japanese rice requisitions, combined with floods and breach- Office of Stra- es in the dykes, caused a horrific famine in which perhaps two million tegic Services North Vietnamese people starved to death. The only force opposed to both the French and Japanese presence in Vietnam was the Viet Minh, (OSS; today the and Ho Chi Minh received assistance from the US government during CIA). When Ho this period. As events unfolded in mainland Europe, the French and Jap- Chi Minh declared anese fell out and the Viet Minh saw its opportunity to strike. independence in 1945, he had OSS A False Dawn agents at his side and borrowed By the spring of 1945, the Viet Minh controlled large swathes of the coun- liberally from try, particularly in the north. In mid-August, Ho Chi Minh called for a the American general uprising, later known as the August Revolution. Meanwhile in Declaration of central Vietnam, Bao Dai abdicated in favour of the new government, Independence. and in the South the Viet Minh soon held power in a shaky coalition with non-communist groups. On 2 September 1945, Ho Chi Minh declared The 1945 Pots- independence at a rally in Hanoi. Throughout this period, Ho wrote eight dam Agreement letters to US president Harry Truman and the US State Department ask- fails to recognise ing for US aid, but received no replies. Vietnam as an in- dependent state A footnote on the agenda of the Potsdam Conference of 1945 was but partitions the disarming of Japanese occupation forces in Vietnam: Chinese Vietnam at the Kuomintang would accept the Japanese surrender north of the 16th Par- 16th parallel (just allel and the British would do so in the south. north of Danang). When the British arrived in Saigon, anarchy ruled with private militia, the remaining Japanese forces, the French, and Viet Minh competing for hegemony. When armed French paratroopers reacted to Ho’s declaration of independence by attacking civilians, the Viet Minh began a guerrilla campaign. On 24 September, French general Jacques Philippe Leclerc arrived in Saigon, declaring, ‘we have come to reclaim our inheritance’. In the north, Chinese Kuomintang troops were fleeing the Chinese communists and making their way southward towards Hanoi. Ho tried to placate them, but as the months of Chinese occupation dragged on, he decided to accept a temporary return of the French, deeming them less of a long-term threat than the Chinese. The French were to stay for five years in return for recognising Vietnam as a free state within the French Union. 1940 1941 mid-1940s 1944–1945 The Japanese Ho Chi Minh forms the The combination of The Viet Minh receive occupation of Vietnam Viet Minh (short for the Japanese rice requisi- funding and arms from tions and widespread begins, as the pro– League for the Inde- flooding leads to a dis- the US Office of Stra- Vichy France colonial pendence of Vietnam), astrous famine in which tegic Services (OSS; government offers the a liberation movement 10% of North Vietnam’s use of military facilities seeking independence population (around two today the CIA). in return for the from France and million people) dies. continued control over fighting the Japanese administration. occupation.

War with the French 445H is to ry War with the F rench In May 1954, the The French had managed to regain control of Vietnam, at least in name. Viet Minh dug a However, following the French shelling of Haiphong in November 1946, tunnel network which killed hundreds of civilians, the détente with the Viet Minh began to unravel. Fighting soon broke out in Hanoi, and Ho Chi Minh and his under French forces fled to the mountains to regroup, where they would remain for defences on Hill the next eight years. A1 at Dien Bien Phu and rigged it In the face of determined Vietnamese nationalism, the French proved with explosives. unable to reassert their control. Despite massive US aid to halt com- Comrade Sapper munism throughout Asia, for the French it was ultimately an unwinnable Nguyen Van Bach war. As Ho said to the French at the outset: ‘You can kill 10 of my men for volunteered him- every one I kill of yours, but even at those odds you will lose and I will win’. self as a human fuse in case the After eight years of fighting, the Viet Minh controlled much of Viet- detonator failed. nam and neighbouring Laos. On 7 May 1954, after a 57-day siege, more Luckily for him it than 10,000 starving French troops surrendered to the Viet Minh at Dien didn’t and he is Bien Phu. This defeat brought an end to the French colonial adventure today honoured in Indochina. The following day, the Geneva Conference opened to nego- tiate an end to the conflict, but the French had no cards left to bring to as a national the table. Resolutions included an exchange of prisoners; the ‘temporary’ hero. division of Vietnam into two zones at the Ben Hai River (near the 17th Parallel) until nationwide elections could be held; the free passage of In Hanoi and the people across the 17th Parallel for a period of 300 days; and the holding North, Ho Chi of nationwide elections on 20 July 1956. In the course of the Franco–Viet Minh created a Minh War, more than 35,000 French fighters had been killed and 48,000 very effective wounded; there are no exact numbers for Vietnamese casualties, but police state. they were certainly higher. The regime was A Separate South Vietnam characterised by ruthless police After the Geneva Accords were signed and sealed, the South was ruled by power, denunci- a government led by Ngo Dinh Diem, a fiercely anti-communist Catho- ations by a huge lic. His power base was significantly strengthened by 900,000 refugees, network of secret many of them Catholics, who had fled the communist North during the informers, and 300-day free-passage period. the blacklisting of dissidents, Nationwide elections were never held, as the Americans rightly feared their children and that Ho Chi Minh would win with a massive majority. During the first their children’s few years of his rule, Diem consolidated power fairly effectively, defeat- ing the Binh Xuyen crime syndicate and the private armies of the Hoa children. Hao and Cao Dai religious sects. During Diem’s 1957 official visit to the USA, President Eisenhower called him the ‘miracle man’ of Asia. As time went on Diem became increasingly tyrannical, closing Buddhist monas- teries, imprisoning monks and banning opposition parties. He also doled 1945 1946 late 1940s 1949 Ho Chi Minh proclaims Strained relations While the Viet Minh re- The Communist victory Vietnamese independ- between the Viet Minh treat to the mountains in China sees increased forces and the French to regroup, the French ence on 2 September attempt to forge a Vi- arms supplies flow in Ba Dinh Square in colonialists erupt etnamese government across the border to into open fighting in Viet Minh forces, who central Hanoi, but the Hanoi and Haiphong, under Emperor Bao score notable battle French aim to reassert marking the start of the Dai, last ruler of the successes against the eight-year Franco–Viet their authority and Nguyen dynasty. French. impose colonial rule Minh War. once more.

446 H is to ry A N ew N orth V ietnam out power to family members (including his sister-in-law Madame Nhu, The 2002 who effectively became First Lady). remake of The In the early 1960s, the South was rocked by anti-Diem unrest led by Quiet American, university students and Buddhist clergy, which included several highly starring Michael publicised self-immolations by monks that shocked the world. The US Caine, is a must- began to see Diem as a liability and threw its support behind a military see. Beautifully coup. A group of young generals led the operation in November 1963. Diem was meant to go into exile, but the generals executed both Diem shot, it is a and his brother. Diem was succeeded by a string of military rulers who classic introduc- continued his policies. tion to Vietnam A New North Vietnam in the 1950s, as the French The Geneva Accords allowed the leadership of the Democratic Republic disengaged and of Vietnam to return to Hanoi and assert control of all territory north the Americans of the 17th Parallel. The new government immediately set out to elimi- moved in to take nate those elements of the population that threatened its power. Tens of their place. thousands of landlords, some with only tiny holdings, were denounced to security committees by their neighbours and arrested. Hasty trials re- Viet Cong and sulted in between 10,000 and 15,000 executions and the imprisonment of VC are both thousands more. In 1956, the party, faced with widespread rural unrest, abbreviations recognised that things had spiralled out of control and began a Cam- for Viet Nam paign for the Rectification of Errors. Cong San, which means Vietnam- The North–South War ese communist. American soldiers The communists’ campaign to liberate the South began in 1959. The Ho nicknamed the Chi Minh Trail reopened for business, universal military conscription VC ‘Charlie’, as in was implemented and the National Liberation Front (NLF), later known ‘Victor Charlie’. as the Viet Cong (VC), was formed. As the NLF launched its campaign, the Diem government quickly lost control of the countryside. To stem the tide, peasants were moved into fortified ‘strategic hamlets’ in order to deny the VC potential support. For the South it was no longer just a battle with the VC. In 1964, Ha- noi began sending regular North Vietnamese Army (NVA) units down the Ho Chi Minh Trail. By early 1965, the Saigon government was on its last legs. Desertions from the Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN) had reached 2000 per month. The South was losing a district capital each week, yet in 10 years only one senior South Vietnamese army officer had been wounded. The army was getting ready to evacuate Hue and Danang, and the central highlands seemed about to fall. Enter the Cavalry The Americans saw France’s war in Indochina as an important element in the worldwide struggle against communist expansion. Vietnam was 1954 1955 1960 1962 French forces Vietnam is ‘temporar- The National Liberation Cuc Phuong National surrender to Viet Minh ily’ divided at the 17th Front (better known as Park, just west of the fighters as the siege of the Viet Cong) launch Dien Bien Phu comes Parallel into North a guerrilla war against city of Ninh Binh is Vietnam and South the Diem government declared Vietnam’s to a dramatic close Vietnam and people in the South, sparking first national park as on 7 May, marking the are given 300 days to Ho Chi Minh declares end of colonial rule in relocate to either side the ‘American War’. ‘forest is gold.’ Indochina. of the border.

447 the next domino and could not topple. In 1950, US advisers rolled into The War in H is to ry T he T u rning P oint Vietnam, ostensibly to train local troops – but American soldiers would Numbers remain on Vietnamese soil for the next 25 years. As early as 1954, US military aid to the French topped US$2 billion. 3689 US fixed-wing aircraft lost A turning point in US strategy came with the August 1964 Gulf of Tonkin 4857 US incident. Two US destroyers claimed to have come under unprovoked at- tack off the North Vietnamese coast. Subsequent research suggests that ­helicopters downed there was a certain degree of provocation: one ship was assisting a secret 15 million tonnes South Vietnamese commando raid, and according to an official National of US ammunition Security Agency report in 2005, the second attack never happened. expended However, on US president Lyndon Johnson’s orders, 64 sorties un- Four million leashed bombs on the North – the first of thousands of such missions that Vietnamese killed would hit every single road and rail bridge in the country, as well as 4000 or injured of North Vietnam’s 5788 villages. A few days later, the US Congress over- whelmingly passed the Tonkin Gulf Resolution, which gave the president the power to take any action in Vietnam without congressional control. As the military situation of the Saigon government reached a new na- dir, the first US combat troops splashed ashore at Danang in March 1965. By December 1965, there were 184,300 US military personnel in Vietnam and 636 Americans had died. By December 1967, the figures had risen to 485,600 US soldiers in the country and 16,021 dead. There were 1.3 million soldiers fighting for the Saigon government, including the South Vietnamese and other allies. US Strategies The American War in Vietnam By 1966, the buzz words in Washington were ‘pacification’, ‘search and claimed the lives destroy’ and ‘free-fire zones’. Pacification involved developing a pro-­ government civilian infrastructure in each village, and providing the of countless soldiers to guard it. To protect villages from VC raids, mobile search-and- journalists. For a destroy units of soldiers moved around the country hunting VC guerrillas. look at the finest In some cases, villagers were evacuated so the Americans could use heavy weaponry such as napalm and tanks in areas declared free-fire zones. photographic work from the These strategies were only partially successful: US forces could control the countryside by day, while the VC usually controlled it by night. Even battlefront, without heavy weapons, VC guerrillas continued to inflict heavy casual- Requiem is an ties in ambushes and through extensive use of mines and booby traps. Al- anthology of though free-fire zones were supposed to prevent civilian casualties, plenty work from fallen of villagers were nevertheless shelled, bombed, strafed or napalmed. These correspondents attacks turned out to be a fairly efficient recruiting tool for the VC. on all sides of the conflict and a fitting tribute to their trade. The Turning Point In January 1968, North Vietnamese troops launched a major attack on the US base at Khe Sanh in the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ). This battle, 1963 1964 1965 1967 South Vietnam’s pres- Although the US is To prevent the total By the end of the year, ident Ngo Dinh Diem is not officially at war, it collapse of the Saigon there are 1.3 million overthrown and killed regime, US President soldiers fighting for launches Operation in a coup backed by Pierce Arrow and Lyndon Johnson the South – nearly half the USA, which brings intensifies bombing a million of these are a new group of young bombs North Vietnam of North Vietnam and from the US. military commanders for the first time in approves the dispatch of American combat into power. retaliation for the Gulf troops to the South. of Tonkin incident.

448 H is to ry N i x on & H is D octrine the single largest of the war, was in part a massive diversion from the The poignant Tet Offensive. wartime diaries The Tet Offensive marked a decisive turning point in the war. On the of a young doctor evening of 31 January, as the country celebrated the Lunar New Year, who volunteers the VC broke an unofficial holiday ceasefire with a series of coordinated strikes in more than 100 cities and towns. As the TV cameras rolled, a VC for the Viet commando team took over the courtyard of the US embassy in central Cong, Last Night Saigon. However, the communists miscalculated the mood of the popu- lation, as the popular uprising they had hoped to provoke never materi- I Dreamed of alised. In cities such as Hue, the VC were not welcomed as liberators and Peace: The Diary this contributed to a communist backlash against the civilian population. of Dang Thuy Although the US were utterly surprised – a major failure of military Tram were only intelligence – they immediately counter-attacked with massive firepower, published 35 bombing and shelling heavily populated cities. The counter-attack devastat- years after her ed the VC, but also traumatised the civilian population. In Hue, a US officer bitterly remarked that they ‘had to destroy the town in order to save it’. death. The Tet Offensive killed about 1000 US soldiers and 2000 ARVN Oliver Stone, troops, but VC losses were more than 10 times higher. never one to shy away from politi- The VC may have lost the battle, but were on the road to winning cal point-scoring, the war. The US military had long been boasting that victory was just earns a maximum a matter of time. Watching the killing and chaos in Saigon beamed into 10 with Platoon, their living rooms, many Americans stopped swallowing the official line. While US generals were proclaiming a great victory, public tolerance of the first of his the war and its casualties reached breaking point. famous trilogy about Vietnam. Simultaneously, stories began leaking out of Vietnam about atroci- It is a brutal ties and massacres carried out against unarmed Vietnamese civilians, and cynical look including the infamous My Lai Massacre. This helped turn the tide and a at the conflict coalition of the concerned emerged. through the eyes of rookie Charlie Nixon & His Doctrine Sheen, with great performances Once elected president, Richard Nixon released a doctrine that called on Asian nations to be more ‘self-reliant’ in matters of defence. Nixon’s strat- from Tom egy advocated ‘Vietnamisation’ – making the South Vietnamese fight the Berenger and war without the support of US troops. Willem Dafoe. Meanwhile, the first half of 1969 saw the conflict escalate further as the number of US soldiers in Vietnam reached an all-time high of 543,400. While the fighting raged, Nixon’s chief negotiator, Henry Kissinger, pursued peace talks in Paris with his North Vietnamese counterpart Le Duc Tho. In 1969, the Americans began secretly bombing Cambodia in an at- tempt to flush out Vietnamese communist sanctuaries. In 1970, US ground forces were sent into Cambodia and the North Vietnamese moved deep- er into Cambodian territory. By summer 1970, they (together with their Khmer Rouge allies) controlled half of Cambodia, including Angkor Wat. 1968 1969 1970 1971 The Viet Cong launches After a lifetime dedi- Nixon’s national The ARVN’s Operation the Tet Offensive, a sur- cated to revolution, Ho security advisor, Henry Lam Son, aimed at Chi Minh dies in Hanoi prise attack on towns in September 1969, of Kissinger, and Le Duc cutting the Ho Chi Minh and cities throughout heart failure. He’s suc- Tho, for the Hanoi trail in Laos, ends in the South. Hundreds ceeded by a ‘collective government, start calamitous defeat as of Vietnamese civilians leadership,’ headed by are killed in the My Lai talks in Paris as the US half its invading troops Le Duan. begins a reduction in are either captured or Massacre. troop numbers. killed.