ISAN CULTURAL ROUTES

ISAN cultural routes





ISAN cultural routes The Northeast Plateau of Thailand, known locally as Isan, is endowed with a great wealth of intriguing cultural treasures, fascinating history, charming way of life, and exquisite local wisdom. Isan’s exceptional culture stems from its long history and multitude of heritage that can be explored as follows:

The Unique Identity of ISAN History Apart from countless archaeological sites that indicate the existent of humans and dinosaurs in this area several million years ago, there are numerous spectacular Khmer sanctuaries that illustrate the glorious history of the Khmer Empire and the influence it had in shaping up Isan into what it is today. Ethnic Groups Isan features a diverse distinctive culture and way of life because it is home to a melting pot of several ethnic groups, each of which has their own beliefs, language, traditions, and way of life. Language and Lifestyle Isan has its own dialect called the ‘Isan dialect’, and it is an integral part in reflecting the unique Isan individuality. The people in Isan are friendly and enjoy a simple and peaceful lifestyle, including an idyllic river-based way of life. 5 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Beliefs and Festivals Isan people have strong beliefs in religion, Naga, and spirits, and their beliefs can be seen in numerous festivals; such as, the Candle Festival, the Naga Fireball Festival, the Rocket Festival, and the Phi Ta Khon Festival. Food Sticky rice is the staple diet of the Isan people, and it is accompanied by dishes with a variety of tastes, particularly spicy. Some of the favourites are Somtam (papaya salad), Lap (spicy ground meat salad), and grilled chicken. Handicrafts Isan boasts a rich collection of handicrafts that showcase the inimitable skills of the artisans that have stood the test of time over many centuries including Matmi silk, Khit silk, pottery, and basketry. 6 ISAN CULTURAL routes

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has produced Isan Cultural Routes as a helpful travel guide for readers to plan a memorable journey in the Northeastern region of Thailand. This guidebook, equipped with 15 routes, takes visitors to retrace the cultural heritage and history of Isan, as well as admire magnificent arts and architecture through visits to temples and historical sites. Visitors are also invited to experience unity amongst diversity and explore the time-honoured cultural legacy by spending time with the locals, learn the local way of life through hands-on activities, and discover their best kept secrets of producing intricate handicrafts. 7 ISAN CULTURAL routes

contents ROUTE 1 ROUTE 2 ROUTE 3 NakHon BURI RAM SI SA KET ratchasima & SURIN & UBON RATCHATHANI p.12 p.24 p.40 ROUTE 4 ROUTE 5 ROUTE 6 UBON RATCHATHANI YASOTHON MUKDAHAN & AMNAT CHAROEN & AMNAT CHAROEN & NAKHON PHANOM p.52 p.62 p.74 8 ISAN CULTURAL routes

ROUTE 7 ROUTE 8 ROUTE 9 SAKON NAKHON NAKHON PHANOM NONG KHAI & NAKHON PHANOM & BUENG KAN & BUENG KAN p.90 p.108 p.120 ROUTE 10 ROUTE 11 ROUTE 12 UDON THANI NONG KHAI UDON THANI & NONG KHAI & LOEI & NONG BUA LAM PHU p.132 p.146 p.162 ROUTE 13 ROUTE 14 ROUTE 15 KHON KAEN CHAIYAPHUM MAHA SARAKHAM, & LOEI KALASIN & ROI ET p.176 p.188 p.200 9 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Me kong River ISAN ROUTE 11 map LOEI ROUTE 12 ROUTE 14 NONG BUA LAM PHU ROUTE 13 KHON KAEN CHAIYAPHUM ROUTE 1 NAKHON RATCHASIMA

Mekong g River erRiv ROUTE 9 BUENG ROUTE 8 KAN NONG KHAI ROUTE 7 UDON THANI ROUTE 10 NAKHON PHANOM SAKON NAKHON ROUTE 6 KALASIN MUKDAHAN ROUTE 15 Mekon ROUTE 5 MAHA ROI ET YASOTHON AMNAT ROUTE 4 SARAKHAM CHAROEN ROUTE 2 ROUTE 3 BURI RAM SURIN SI SA KET UBON RATCHATHANI

ROUTE 1 NAKHON RATCHASIMA The Land of a Brave Heroine, Intriguing Khmer Cultures, Fascinating Earthenware, and Stunning Silk Textiles Introduction: The Nakhon Ratchasima route allows visitors to discover the fascinating cultural and historical heritage of Nakhon Ratchasima province, which is also known as ‘Khorat’. Start the journey at the heart of the province by paying respect to Thao Suranari, a notable heroine of the nation, and then go back to the time when the Dvaravati and Khmer civilisations flourished by visiting Khorat’s many historical sites including the notable Phimai Historical Park. To complete the journey, explore local legacies including the unique local way of life and distinctive local handicrafts, particularly Dan Kwian’s earthenware and Pak Thong Chai’s silk textiles. 12 ISAN CULTURAL routes

To Khon Kaen To Chaiyaphum 1015 9 2 8 206 19 6 2217 Amphoe Non Sung Amphoe 7 Amphoe Phimai Dan Khun Thot 205 201 17 16 14 4 226 18 15 3 Amphoe Sikhio 2 2 Amphoe 1 Sung Noen 20 Amphoe 201 1020 Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima 21 5 10 2 304 224 24 Amphoe Chok Chai 13 2238 11 24 304 23 Amphoe Pak Chong To 24 Buri Ram yy yyy2090 22 To 1016 yyy yyy 12 Saraburi Amphoe Pak Thong Chai yyy 304 Nakhon Ratchasima To Amphoe Dan Khun Thot Prachin Buri 19. Wat Ban Rai Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima 1. Thao Suranari Monument and Amphoe Chok Chai Amphoe Sikhio 10. Dan Kwian Earthenware Village 20. Utthayan Lan Bun Maha Wihan Pratu Chumphon 2. Wat Phra Narai Maharat Amphoe Pak Thong Chai Somdet Phra Phutthachan 3. Wat Sala Loi 11. Nakhon Chai Burin Silk Centre (To Phrommarangsi) 4. Korat Museum and Ruean Khorat 12. Ban Japoh 21. Wat Khao Chan Ngam 5. Northeastern Museum of Petrified 13. Wat Na Phrathat Amphoe Pak Chong Wood, Primitive Elephants and Amphoe Sung Noen 22. Khao Yai National Park Dinosaur 14. Prasat Mueang Kao 23. Wat Vajiralongkorn Wararam 15. Prasat Non Ku Amphoe Phimai 16. Prasat Mueang Khaek Worawihan 6. Phimai National Museum 17. Mueang Sema Historical Site 24. Wat Thepphithak Punnaram 7. Phimai Historical Park 18. Wat Dharmachakra Semaram Amphoe Non Sung 8. Ban Prasat Archaeological Site 9. Ban Prasat Homestay

Day 1 Mark the beginning of the trip by visiting the Thao Suranari Monument, which is a significant landmark of Khorat and a memorial, to honour a heroine of the Thai people, named Thao Suranari. Locally known as ‘Ya Mo’ (Grandmother Mo), Thao Suranari led the villagers to fight against Chao Anuwong of Vientiane who had Khorat under siege in 1826. Visitors from all over also come to pay homage to Ya Mo on their visit to Nakhon Ratchasima province. Situated right behind the Thao Suranari Monument, Pratu Chum Phon (Chum Phon Gate) is a city gate built in 1656 when King Narai the Great gave a royal command to make Nakhon Ratchasima an outpost of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Pratu Chum Phon is the only original one out of four city gates that still stands today, whereas the other three gates have been rebuilt. It is believed that whoever walks under Thao Suranari Monument Pratu Chum Phon once, would get to return Festival to Khorat, whoever walks under the gate Thao Suranari Memorial Fair twice, would get to come to work or live The Thao Suranari Memorial Fair takes in Khorat, and whoever walks under the gate three place at the area near the Thao Suranari times, would get to marry a local Khorat person. Monument on 23 March to 3 April of every year to honour Ya Mo’s bravery. Visit Wat Phra Narai Maharat, known by the locals The event includes fireworks displays, as “Wat Klang”, which was built during the reign performances, exhibitions, a light and of King Narai the Great around 300 years ago. sound presentation, a beauty contest, The temple showcases Ayutthaya-style architecture and stalls selling local products. and features a beautiful Ubosot (ordination hall) in the middle of a pond. Inside the Ubosot presents Wat Phra Narai Maharat beautiful murals depicting the life of the Lord Buddha and the Ten Jataka Tales. Then, proceed onto Wat Sala Loi, a temple built by Thao Suranari and her husband in 1827. The Ubosot is in the shape of a boat riding the waves and is decorated with Dan Kwian clay tiles to depict the life of Lord Buddha, while the door is made of metal with raised designs, portraying the Story of Vessantara Jataka (one of the popular Buddhist tales). Visitors can find a statue of Thao Suranari within the temple as well. 14 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Festival Khorat Candle Festival Every year during the Buddhist Lent period (around July), the local Khorat people organise a Khorat Candle Festival that features a Candle Procession and a Candle Competition in which visitors get the opportunity to see the local wisdom of candle carving. Korat Museum Ruen Khorat To understand more about the history and culture of Nakhon Ratchasima, visitors are recommended to visit the Korat Museum, which presents the evolution of history, art, and culture of Nakhon Ratchasima province from the past until present. The Museum is divided into 8 sections; namely, Introduction, Beginning of Civilisation, Dvaravati Period, Lop Buri Period, Ayutthaya Period, Rattanakosin Period, Metropolis of Isan, and Khorat’s Unique Heritage. Situated near the Korat Museum is Ruean Khorat (Khorat House), which is an ancient wooden house raised on stilts and is where visitors can explore how people in Khorat lived in the past through the display of artefacts and tools used in daily life. The uniqueness of Khorat’s traditional house is that even though the house seems to be one storey, the floor is raised in three steps to make the most use of the space in which the highest step is the bedroom. 15 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Enjoy ‘Phat Mi Khorat’ (Khorat-style stir-fried noodles) for lunch before heading to Amphoe Phimai and visit the Phimai National Museum. The Museum exhibits artefacts and objects collected from Nakhon Ratchasima, Chaiyaphum, Buri Ram, Surin, and Si Sa Ket provinces. The highlight is the stone statue of King Jayavarman VII that was found at Prasat Hin Phimai. A short walk from the Museum leads to the grandiose Phimai Historical Park that contains Prasat Hin Phimai or Phimai Sanctuary, one of the most significant Mahayana Buddhist temples found in Thailand. The Phimai Sanctuary is in a rectangular shape with the city wall measuring 565 metres by 1,030 metres. It is believed that Phimai is an ancient town constructed during the Khmer Empire around the 11th to 12th century. The white sandstone main Prasat (tower) is unique, as it faces south instead of east towards the sunrise like other Khmer religious structures. The most important parts are the Garbhagriha (the innermost room of the temple) that houses a sacred image and a Somasutra conduit, a passage way for passing the holy water outside. There are several other structures Phimai National Museum and monuments in good condition; for example, the sandstone Naga Bridge, the L-shaped Gallery made of red sandstone with an inscription in Khmer on the doorframe, and Prang Brahmathat, which is a square-based laterite structure where the sculptures of King Jayavarman VII and a woman believed to be Queen Jayarajathevi were found. Phat Mi Khorat Phat Mi Khorat or Khorat-style stir-fried noodles is similar to the world-famous Phat Thai. Originated from Nakhon Ratchasima province, Phat Mi Khorat is dried rice noodles stir-fried with pork, garlic, shallots, bean sprouts, spring onion, fish sauce, tamarind sauce, sugar, fermented bean paste, black soy sauce, and chili. Phimai Historical Park

Festivals Phimai Mini Light and Sound Organised at the Phimai Historical Park every February, the Phimai Mini Light and Sound features a light and sound performance that depicts the story of Phimai city in the past. Phimai Festival and Boat Races The Phimai Festival and Boat Races is held every 2nd weekend of November to celebrate the glorious past of Phimai. The Festival features a light and sound presentation at the Phimai Historical Park that tells the story of King Jayavarman VII, whereas the Phimai Boat Races is organised at the Chakkarat River to reflect the river-based lifestyle. The event also includes a competition of boat decoration, and stalls selling local products. In the afternoon, travel to Amphoe Non Sung to learn about the pre-historic communities that resided in the area some 3,000 years ago at the Ban Prasat Archaeological Site. The three excavation pits here revealed evidence of cultural development during the Dvaravati and Ancient Khmer periods, and unearthed artefacts including skeletons, grave gifts, pottery, and ornaments. Then, spend time learning the local way of life at Ban Prasat Homestay. Visitors are welcome to enjoy activities including riding on a tractor, learning how to grow and harvest rice, cooking local dishes, and cruising along Than Prasat (Prasat Stream). Day 2 Rise early for the alms-giving activity before leaving Dan Kwian Earthenware Village Ban Prasat and heading off to Amphoe Chok Chai to visit the Dan Kwian Earthenware Village, which is famous for the unique rust-coloured pottery. The properties of Dan Kwian’s clay are the durability and its colour, which is reddish brown or greyish black. Visitors can learn about pottery-making, as well as explore numerous stores that display and sell all kinds of Dan Kwian’s handcrafted earthenware. Wat Na Phrathat Continue the journey to Wat Na Phrathat, also known as Wat Takhu, in Amphoe Pak Thong Chai. It is a temple with an ancient 200-year-old Ubosot with beautiful mural paintings portraying the Jataka tales and local way of life. Within the temple grounds are a Phrathat (stupa) constructed in the Laotian style, and a Ho Trai Klang Nam (Scripture Hall in the middle of a pond) that is used to keep the ancient palm-leaf Tripitaka (Buddhist scripture) from termites. 17 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Amphoe Pak Thong Chai is one of the most famous silk weaving villages in Thailand, and there are numerous shops and outlets selling silk fabric and ready-to-wear clothing. Visitors can learn about silk weaving production at Ban Japoh, a village renowned for hand-woven silk textiles, especially, Matmi silk, Hang Krarok (squirrel’s tail) patterned silk, and the combination of the two. There is also a community museum that showcases local wisdom of producing silk textiles, and a collection of century-old silk fabric and ancient weaving tools. After that, explore and purchase some of the beautiful silk fabric at Nakhon Chai Burin Silk Centre, a silk product distribution centre. There is also an exhibition hall displaying a realm of silk, valuable silk textiles, as well as a presentation of silk production from sericulture to silk reeling and silk weaving. Festival Pak Thong Chai Silk Festival and Khorat’s Products Fair The Pak Thong Chai Silk Festival and Khorat’s Products Fair is held in December and features several activities including stalls selling silk and local products, fashion show, Queen of Silk contest, and a demonstration of the silk making process. If time permits, travel to Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima and visit the Northeastern Research Institute of Petrified Wood and Mineral Resources, which is one of seven museums of its kind in the world. The Museum comprises three main zones; namely, the Petrified Wood Museum, the Ancient Elephant Museum, and the Dinosaur Museum. The Petrified Wood Museum exhibits a collection of fossils and petrified wood discovered in the area, which are approximately 800,000-320 million years old, whereas the Ancient Elephant Museum showcases 8 out of 42 genera of primitive elephants found in the world, all of which were found in Nakhon Ratchasima province, while the Dinosaur Museum displays fossils of dinosaurs also found in the province. Day 3 Spend the morning visiting the Ancient Town in Tambon Khorat or Ancient Khorat, which consists of 3 ancient sites; namely; Prasat Mueang Kao, Prasat Non Ku, and Prasat Mueang Khaek. Begin with Prasat Mueang Kao, an Arokhayasala (hospital) believed to be built under the command of King Jayavarman VII during 1181-1218. The Arokhayasala comprises a main Prasat (tower) and a Bannalai (library), both of which are enclosed by a boundary wall. There is a Gopura (entrance gate) at the front and rectangular-shaped pond lined with laterite found outside the wall. Then, proceed to Prasat Non Ku, a small cluster of ruins believed to be built in the 10th century as a Hindu religious building. Made of bricks and sandstone, Prasat Non Ku comprises 18 ISAN CULTURAL routes

a main Prasat on a high base facing east and 2 Prasat Mueang Kao Bannalai structures facing the main Prasat. All the Wat Dharmachakra Semaram buildings are surrounded by a boundary wall with Gopura on the east and the west. Situated around 500 metres from Prasat Non Ku, Prasat Mueang Khaek is a large ruin made of sandstone and bricks that consist of a main Prasat with two satellite buildings on each side and two Bannalai buildings on the northeast and northwest. The buildings are surrounded by a boundary wall with a Gopura in the middle of the north wall. The details of decorative carvings on the lintels and other objects found here suggests that Prasat Mueang Khaek was a Hindu temple from around the 10th century. Then, move on to Mueang Sema Historical Site, an ancient city from around 2,000 years ago. Surrounded by a moat and a mound, Mueang Sema Historical Site is divided into two parts – the Outer Town and the Inner Town. An example of important artefacts that have been unearthed here includes an inscription that mentioned the name ‘Jayavarman V’, who was the king who ruled the Khmer Empire during 968-1001 A.D. Continue the journey to Wat Dharmachakra Semaram to pay respect to the large reclining Buddha image that dates back to the Dvaravati period. The Buddha image is 13.30 metres long and 2.80 metres high, in which the face is made of four sandstone slabs stacking on top of one another, while the body is made of a big piece of sandstone. Prasat Non Ku

If time allows, make a trip to Wat Ban Rai, located in Amphoe Utthayan Lan Bun Maha Wihan Dan Khun Thot. The most prominent feature of the temple Somdet Phra Phutthachan is Wihan Thep Witthayakhom, a 42-metre-high building (To Phrommarangsi) situated in the middle of a gigantic pond and is built in the form of an elephant with an elephant’s head on the roof. The building is decorated with colourful ceramic tiles and comprises four floors, all of which contains paintings and artworks portraying the Lord Buddha and Dharma stories. In the afternoon, travel to Amphoe Sikhio and call in at Utthayan Lan Bun Maha Wihan Somdet Phra Phutthachan (To Phrommarangsi), which features a stunning Wihan (image hall) topped with a golden Chedi, housing a gigantic golden sculpture of the highly revered monk named Somdet Phra Phuttachan (To Phrommarangsi). The Buddha image measures 8.025 metres wide, 13 metres high, and weighs 61 tonnes. Then, visit Wat Khao Chan Ngam, which features a set of prehistoric rock paintings discovered in the cave. The red paintings, approximately 4 metres above the ground, depict humans, animals, and bows and arrows, which reflect the way of life of the agricultural community that resided in this area around 3,000-4,000 years ago. Visitors can also find a gigantic reclining Buddha image and a replica of the Lord Buddha’s footprint within the temple’s grounds. Khao Yai National Park A trip to Nakhon Ratchasima province would not be complete without visiting Khao Yai National Park, Thailand’s first national park which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. Make a trip to the National Park before nightfall to enjoy the nighttime wildlife viewing activity before enjoying camping out under the stars. 20 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Khao Yai National Park offers nighttime wildlife viewing activities twice a day at 7 p.m. and 8 p.m. Please contact the Khao Yai National Park Headquarters for more information. Day 4 Travel to Amphoe Pak Chong and visit Wat Vajiralongkorn Wararam Worawihan. The highlight of the temple is the marble Mondop (square-based building with pyramidal roof), which is constructed in the Indian Buddhist style, and houses a replica of the Lord Buddha’s footprint. The marble Mondop also contains pictures of the 4 Buddhist Sacred Sites; namely, the Buddha’s place of birth, the place where he attained enlightenment, the place where he delivered his first sermon, and the place that he attained nirvana. Before leaving for Bangkok, visit Wat Thep Wat Thep Phithak Punnaram Phithak Punnaram, a temple that features a gigantic white Buddha image known by locals as Luangpho Khao (White Buddha Image). The Buddha image is 27 metres wide and 45 metres high and sits majestically at 112 metres above ground level. The 1,250 steps of the stairs to and from Luangpho Khao signify the number of monks that spontaneously gathered to hear Lord Buddha’s first sermon without prior appointment on Makha Bucha Day. 21 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Contact Information Amphoe Phimai Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima Phimai National Museum N15° 13.491’ E102° 29.666’ Thao Suranari Monument Tha Songkran Road, Tambon Nai Mueang, N14° 58.490’ E102° 05.886’ Amphoe Phimai, Nakhon Ratchasima Ratchadamnoen Road, Tambon Nai Mueang, +66 (0) 4447 1167 Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima, www.facebook.com/phimainationalmuseum Nakhon Ratchasima Every day 9.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. 100 Baht Wat Phra Narai Maharat N14° 58.494’ E102° 06.422’ Phimai Historical Park Chom Phon Road, Tambon Nai Mueang, N15° 13.267’ E102° 29.628’ Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima, Tambon Nai Mueang, Amphoe Phimai, Nakhon Ratchasima Nakhon Ratchasima +66 (0) 4447 1568 Wat Sala Loi Every day 7.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. N14° 58.840’ E102° 06.993’ 100 Baht Soi Thao Sura 3, Tambon Nai Mueang, Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima, Amphoe Non Sung Nakhon Ratchasima Ban Prasat Archaeological Site Korat Museum and Ruean Khorat N15° 14.741’ E102° 22.262’ N14° 58.986’ E102° 06.798’ Ban Prasat Tai, Tambon Than Prasat, Building 10 (2nd Floor) Amphoe Non Sung, Nakhon Ratchasima Art and Culture Centre of Nakhon Ratchasima Every day 8.30 a.m. – 4.30 p.m. Rajabhat University 340 Suranarai Road, Tambon Nai Mueang, Ban Prasat Homestay Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima, N15° 14.791’ E102° 22.216’ Nakhon Ratchasima 282 Mu 7, Ban Prasat Tai, Tambon Than Prasat, +66 (0) 4400 9009 ext. 1013 or 1020 Amphoe Non Sung, Nakhon Ratchasima www.koratmuseum.com Thiam La-ongklang www.facebook.com/koratmuseum +66 (8) 9581 7870 Every day 9.00 a.m. – 3.00 p.m. (except public Remark: Please make an appointment in advance. holidays) Amphoe Chok Chai Northeastern Museum of Petrified Wood, Primitive Elephants and Dinosaur Dan Kwian Earthenware Village N14° 50.544’ E102° 11.748’ N14° 51.474’ E102° 01.604’ 104 Mu 7, Ban Dan Chai, Tambon Dan Kwian, 184 Mittraphap-Nong Pling Road, Mu 7, Amphoe Chok Chai, Nakhon Ratchasima Ban Krok Duean Ha, Tambon Suranari, Mian Singthalae Amphoe Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima, +66 (8) 7959 4011 Nakhon Ratchasima +66 (0) 4437 0739-40 www.khoratfossil.org www.facebook.com/koratfossil Tuesday – Sunday 9.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. 100 Baht for adults and 50 Baht for children Remark: Please make an appointment 3 days in advance for group visits. 22 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Amphoe Pak Thong Chai Amphoe Sikhio Wat Na Phrathat Utthayan Lan Bun Maha Wihan Somdet N14° 43.421’ E101° 59.117’ Phra Phutthachan (To Phrommarangsi) Mu 1, Tambon Takhu, Amphoe Pak Thong Chai, Nakhon Ratchasima N14° 52.255’ E101° 44.233’ Mittraphap Road, Tambon Sikhio, Amphoe Sikhio, Ban Japoh Nakhon Ratchasimaa N14° 43.105’ E102° 01.613’ 60/1 Mu 2, Ban Cha Po, Tambon Mueang Pak, Wat Khao Chan Ngam Amphoe Pak Thong Chai, Nakhon Ratchasima N14° 49.022’ E101° 35.749’ Wirut Singhawisai Mu 12, Ban Loet Sawat, Tambon Lat Bua Khao, +66 (8) 9917 9748 Amphoe Sikhio, Nakhon Ratchasima Remark: Please make an appointment in advance. Amphoe Pak Chong Nakhon Chai Burin Silk Centre N14° 44.517’ E102° 01.952’ Khao Yai National Park Tambon Mueang Pak, Amphoe Pak Thong Chai, N14° 30.469’ E101° 22.739’ Nakhon Ratchasima Tambon Mu Si, Amphoe Pak Chong, Thatcha Pridawichitkun Nakhon Ratchasima +66 (6) 1619 9642 +66 (8) 6092 6527 Remark: Please make an appointment in advance. http://park.dnp.go.th 400 Baht for adults and 200 Baht for children Amphoe Sung Noen Wat Vajiralongkorn Wararam Worawihan Prasat Mueang Kao N14° 38.725’ E101° 21.345’ N14° 54.514’ E101° 51.671’ Tambon Nong Nam Daeng, Amphoe Pak Chong, Mu 1, Ban Mueang Kao, Tambon Khorat, Nakhon Ratchasima Amphoe Sung Noen, Nakhon Ratchasima Wat Thepphithak Punnaram Prasat Non Ku N14° 37.089’ E101° 15.921’ N14° 54.500’ E101° 50.047’ Tambon Klang Dong, Amphoe Pak Chong, Mu 7, Ban Kok Kok, Tambon Khorat, Nakhon Ratchasima Amphoe Sung Noen, Nakhon Ratchasima Useful contact information Prasat Mueang Khaek in Nakhon Ratchasima N14° 54.747’ E101° 49.954’ Mu 7, Ban Kok Kok,Tambon Khorat, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), Amphoe Sung Noen, Nakhon Ratchasima Nakhon Ratchasima Office (Responsible areas: Nakhon Ratchasima and Mueang Sema Historical Site Chaiyaphum) N14° 55.314’ E101° 47.889’ Tambon Sema, Amphoe Sung Noen, +66 (0) 4421 3666, Nakhon Ratchasima +66 (0) 4421 3030 Wat Dharmachakra Semaram Highway Police 1193 N14° 55.029’ E101° 47.645’ Tourist Police 1155 Mu 3, Ban Khlong Khwang, Tambon Sema, Amphoe Sung Noen, Nakhon Ratchasima Please visit www.tourismthailand.org/Nakhon-Ratchasima Amphoe Dan Khun Thot for more information on accommodation, restaurants, and attractions in Nakhon Ratchasima. Wat Ban Rai N15° 17.958’ E101° 44.227’ Remark: It is recommended that visitors use a tour Tambon Kut Phiman, Amphoe Dan Khun Thot, guide when travelling this route, as there may be a Nakhon Ratchasima language barrier.

ROUTE 2 BURI RAM – SURIN A Journey to Explore the Land of Volcanoes, Amazing Khmer Ruins, Beautiful Silk Textiles, and the Biggest Home of Elephants in Thailand Introduction: The Buri Ram – Surin route begins in Buri Ram province, where visitors are invited to explore the grandeur of an inactive volcano field, get immersed in the beauty of an ancient Khmer sanctuary, and learn about the distinctive local wisdom in silk production. Then continue the journey to Surin province to trace the history of the Khmer civilisation at the province’s many Khmer sanctuaries, discover the beauty of ancient golden brocade silk as well as silverware, and spend time experiencing the unique way of life that is deeply intertwined with elephants. 24 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Amphoe Na Pho 5 4031 4 To Maha Sarakham 202 To Amphoe Nakhon Ratchasima Phutthaisong Amphoe Satuek 2074 Buri Ram Airport 219 Amphoe Mueang 1 Buri Ram 3048 Amphoe 218 3 Huai Rat 226 Amphoe Chamni 226 218 y yy2 y y yyyyyy To Amphoe To Nakhon Ratchasima Phlapphla Chai Surin 24 2445 Amphoe 348 24 Nang Rong 2117 24 Amphoe Chaloem Amphoe To Prakhon Chai Surin Phra Kiat 6 78 4013 9 348 10 To Sa Kaeo Amphoe Na Pho 5. SUPPORT Foundation, Ban Na Pho BURI RAM Amphoe Chaloem Phra Kiat Amphoe Mueang Buri Ram 6. Phanom Rung Historical Park 1. City Pillar Shrine 7. Wat Khao Angkhan 2. Khao Kradong Forest Park 8. Ban Charoen Suk Amphoe Huai Rat Amphoe Prakhon Chai 3. Sanuan Nok Thai Silk Village 9. Prasat Hin Mueang Tam 10. Ban Khok Mueang Amphoe Phutthaisong 4. Hua Saphan Mai Thai Silk Village

To Roi Et 214 7 3027 Amphoe Khwao Sinarin 3027 Amphoe Tha Tum 214 8 6 Amphoe 4026 Samrong Thap 226 To 9 2167 To Buri Ram Si Sa Ket 226 226 10 5 Amphoe Sikhoraphum Amphoe Mueang Surin 214 To 24 24 Buri Ram Amphoe Prasat To 4 Si Sa Ket 2375 214 224 2407 Amphoe 1 Phanom Dong Rak 2 Amphoe Tha Tum 7. Elephant Study Centre cambodia Amphoe Khwao Sinarin 3 8. Ban Khwao Sinarin Silverware and surin Silk Village Amphoe Phanom Dong Rak Amphoe Sikhoraphum 1. Prasat Ta Muean 9. Prasat Si Khoraphum 2. Prasat Ta Muean Tot 3. Prasat Ta Muean Thom Amphoe Samrong Thap 10. Ban A-lue Homestay Amphoe Prasat 4. Prasat Ban Phluang Amphoe Mueang Surin 5. Wat Burapharam 6. Ban Tha Sawang

Day 1 Start the first day of the trip in Amphoe Mueang Buri Ram by visiting the City Pillar Shrine, home of the guardian spirit of the city and the centre of faith for the townspeople. Constructed with the same architectural style as that of the Phanom Rung Sanctuary, the City Pillar Shrine houses two wooden pillars. The first pillar was the City Pillar of ‘Mueang Pae’ and the second pillar was constructed when Mueang Pae city was upgraded as a province and renamed as ‘Buri Ram’. Situated nearby is a Chinese Shrine where the members of the Thai-Chinese community often come to pray and ask for a blessing. Then go to Khao Kradong Forest Park, which has one of the six City Pillar Shrine extinct volcanoes in Buri Ram province. A must-do activity is to walk around the crater of Kradong Volcano, which stands at 265 metres above mean sea level and is the youngest in Thailand at around 3-900,000 years old. Visitors can observe the traces of the volcano’s eruption, which is in a half-moon shape, and enjoy cycling along the bicycle trails or trekking along the 2-kilometre-long nature study trail. Then, walk up the 297 Naga steps to enjoy the panoramic views of the city and pay homage to a giant golden Buddha image, which measures 12 metres at the lap while the head of the Buddha image enshrines holy relics. Visitors can also find Prasat Khao Kradong, a pre-Sukhothai place of worship that now houses a replica of the Lord Buddha’s footprint. Khao Kradong Forest Park 27 ISAN CULTURAL routes

After lunch, travel to Amphoe Huai Rat to visit Sanuan Nok Thai Silk Village, a Thai-Khmer village where most of the villagers still speak Khmer language. Visitors can explore the hand- woven silk production process, from mulberry cultivation to sericulture, and silk weaving. The distribution centre offers several products; such as, ‘Pha Mai Hang Krarok’ (squirrel’s tail patterned silk), which is this village’s signature product, and Buri Ram’s unique silk fabric called ‘Pha Sin Tin Daeng’ (red-footed wrap-around skirt). Visitors are also invited to visit Lung Phanom’s Bell House that produces cow bells from Siamese rosewood, and an Ancient House, a 150-year-old wooden house that exhibits ancient tools and antiquities. Visitors can also watch a ‘Ruean Trot’ or ‘Ram Trot’ performance, which originates from a local play where the villagers dance around to give all the houses a blessing in April of every year. The uniqueness of silk production at Sanuan Nok Thai Silk Village lies in the traditional silk reeling process in which the silk threads are placed on the weaver’s bare thigh to determine the thickness of the threads. Sanuan Nok Thai Silk Village Hua Saphan Mai Thai Silk Village Festival Isan Kite Festival Held on the first weekend of December of every year, the Isan Kite Festival features a colourful kite parade, Isan Kite Beauty Contest, kite-making competition, kite race, stalls selling local products, and entertainment. The not-to-be-missed activity is watching Wao Aek, a local kite with a wingspan of around 2-3 metres, flying high in the sky. Continue the journey to Hua Saphan Mai Thai Silk Village in Amphoe Phutthaisong to learn about sericulture, observe the mulberry farm, and explore the world of silk making. There is a handicraft centre that exhibits a variety of silk products including the exquisite ‘Pha Sin Tin Daeng Lai Nopphakao Nokyung Yok Thong’, which is a golden brocade red-footed wrap-around skirt with Nopphakao and peacock patterns. Visitors can also purchase silk products; such as, Matmi silk, Pha Sin Tin Daeng, and other products including silk cocoon body scrub. 28 ISAN CULTURAL routes

SUPPORT Foundation, Ban Na Pho Later, travel to Amphoe Na Pho and spend time at the SUPPORT Foundation, Ban Na Pho. The handicraft learning centre was founded to preserve and disseminate the local wisdom to future generations in which visitors can learn the entire process of silk production, all of which is done by hand; such as, silk reeling, degumming and dyeing the silk threads, Matmi tie-dyeing process, and weaving silk on an ancient loom. Examples of the products available for purchase include Pha Sin Tin Daeng, Matmi silk, shawls, necktie, and handbag. Phanom Rung Historical Park Day 2 Early morning, make a trip to Amphoe Chaloem Phrakiat to visit the Phanom Rung Historical Park, one of the most beautiful and best preserved Khmer sanctuaries in Thailand. Situated on top of Khao Phanom Rung, an extinct volcano, the sanctuary comprises many laterite and sandstone structures in which the construction period spans from the 10th to 13th centuries. The sanctuary was built as a Hindu shrine dedicated to God Shiva, while the term ‘Phanom Rung’ was found inscribed on stone in Khmer, which means ‘huge mountain’. At the end of the first Naga Bridge, which symbolises the connection between Earth and heaven, is a stairway of 52 steps, which leads to another 2 Naga Bridges before reaching the 27-metre-high main Prasat (tower), which is constructed of pink sandstone. 29 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Phanom Rung Historical Park One of the most important objects found at the Phanom Rung Sanctuary is the ‘Thap Lang Narai Banthom Sin’, a lintel depicting a reclining Vishnu that is placed above the eastern entrance to the main Prasat and is recognised as one of the most beautiful lintels in the world. Festival Khao Phanom Rung Fair Held for three days around the end of March to the beginning of April of every year, the Fair features several activities including an invocation ceremony, a procession, a light and sound presentation, and a market selling local products and handicrafts. During this time, visitors also get the opportunity to witness the rare and spectacular natural phenomenon when the ray of the sunrise shines through all 15 doorways of the sanctuary. 30 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Call in at Wat Khao Angkhan, a stunning temple that sits atop Khao Phra Angkhan, an extinct volcano. The Ubosot (ordination hall) features a beautiful mix of architecture from various periods, and surrounding the Ubosot are 108 seated Buddha images. On top of the Ubosot enshrines the holy ashes of the Lord Buddha, whereas the walls inside the Ubosot are covered with murals depicting the Jataka tales. Visitors can also find Bai Sema (boundary marker) made of basalt from the Dvaravati period around the Ubosot. Then, visit Ban Charoen Suk, a community that creates the beautiful ‘Phu Akkhani Textiles’. Visitors can observe the steps in producing the Phu Akkhani textiles, from collecting the volcanic soil from Khao Din Daeng, which is one of the satellite hills of Khao Phra Angkhan, to making the dye and weaving to produce a piece of reddish- brown coloured textile. The textiles are Ban Charoen Suk made into a variety of patterns but are mostly woven in a ‘Sai Fon Phu Akkhani’ (Phu Akkhani’s Rain) pattern, which is the community’s signature pattern. Visitors can also support the community by purchasing products made from Phu Akkhani textiles. In 2007, the villagers found red earth particles stuck on their clothes after visiting the forest. They collected the volcanic soil to make dyes for cotton, which resulted in deep brown textiles that was both thick and soft. They named it the Phu Akkhani textile as ‘Phu Akkhani’ literally translates to ‘Fire Mountain’, because the volcanic soil collected from the extinct volcano or fire mountain was used to produce the textiles. After lunch, continue the journey to Amphoe Prakhon Chai to visit Prasat Hin Mueang Tam or Mueang Tam Stone Sanctuary. Believed to be built around the 10th century as a Hindu shrine and dedicated to God Shiva, Prasat Hin Mueang Tam comprises five brick structures, which are a symbol of the divine Sumeru mountain, built on the same laterite base. The main Prasat is in ruins, but the remaining four are still intact. Prasat Hin Mueang Tam

One of the most outstanding features is the L-shaped pond at the four corners between the inner and outer walls, in which the top edge of the pond was made from sandstone in the shape of a Naga’s body with its neck stretching to reveal a five-headed Naga at the pond’s corners. Spend the rest of the afternoon at Ban Khok Prasat Hin Mueang Tam Mueang, a community where life revolves around Ban Khok Mueang organic agriculture and folk culture. Visitors are invited to watch the brown rice ice cream-making demonstration, learn to cook from home-grown vegetables and herbs, and witness the production of Phanom Rung patterned reed mats. 32 ISAN CULTURAL routes

The villagers are involved in sericulture and silk production, and visitors can observe the production process including how to weave a vegetable fern pattern, an imitation of the stone carving beside the doorways at Prasat Hin Mueang Tam. Besides silk textiles and patterned reed mats, there are other products; such as, bags, vases, and tissue boxes that visitors can purchase as a souvenir. Ban Khok Mueang Day 3 After spending the night at Ban Khok Mueang Homestay, begin the third day by travelling to Surin province. Start in Amphoe Phanom Dongrak and explore a group of ancient Khmer ruins known as the Ta Muean Sanctuary Complex that consists of three sanctuaries. Prasat Ta Muean, the smallest of the three sanctuaries, is a laterite and sandstone chapel that was built in the Bayon style of architecture in the 13th century as a rest house for travellers. Located around 350 metres from Prasat Ta Muean, Prasat Ta Muean Tot was also built in the Bayon style of architecture in the 13th century. The sanctuary was one of the 102 Arokhayasala (hospital) that King Jayavarman VII established throughout the Khmer Kingdom. The largest and oldest of the three sanctuaries, Prasat Ta Muean Thom faces south, which is highly unusual for Khmer temples that usually face east. The lingam made of natural rock found inside the main Prasat indicated that this sanctuary was built as a Hindu temple and dedicated to God Shiva. Prasat Ta Muean 33 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Continue to Amphoe Prasat to visit Prasat Ban Phluang, a Hindu sanctuary that showcases several skillfully carved lintels and pediments that suggested it was presumably built around the 11th century in dedication to God Indra. Some important objects include the lintel above the entrance that depicts God Indra on the Airavata (white elephant), and the pediment over the east entrance depicting the scene where God Krishna lifts the Govardhana Hill. Prasat Ban Phluang Wat Burapharam After lunch, travel to Amphoe Mueang Surin to visit Wat Burapharam, a temple presumed to be built around 200 years ago and houses the most sacred Buddha image in Surin province named Luangpho Phra Chi. The Buddha image is in a subduing Mara posture and is believed to be built around the same period as the temple. The temple also houses a wax sculpture of Luangpu Dulaya Atulo, a highly respected monk, measuring 82 centimetres wide and 2.3 metres high, as well as mural paintings portraying several famous Thai monks. Prasat Ta Muean Thom

Spend the rest of the afternoon at the Chansoma Ancient Gold Brocade Silk Weaving Group in Ban Tha Sawang, a village notable for producing the exquisite Yok Thong (gold brocade) textile. Visitors can uncover the secrets behind the making of gold brocade silk here by exploring the production process in which the uniqueness of Ban Tha Sawang’s textiles is the results from the fine silk threads taken from the innermost part of the silk cocoon. The silk threads are then dyed using natural colours and woven into a piece of textile. The textile is called ‘Yok Thong’ or ‘gold brocade’ because real gold is made into fine threads that are then hand-spun with silk threads and woven to create elaborate and sophisticated patterns. Four people have to work together on one loom for around 2 months to complete weaving one piece of gold brocade silk fabric, making Ban Tha Sawang’s gold brocade silk even more special and sought-after. Visitors to Amphoe Mueang Surin can also purchase a variety of hand-woven basketry made from rattan at the Ban Buthom Basketry Village. The special characteristic of the basketry here is the use of thin rattan vines to produce sturdy and shiny basketry products; such as, baskets and containers. Day 4 Ban Tha Sawang Start the last day of the trip by travelling to Amphoe Tha 35 Tum to visit the Elephant Study Centre at Ban Ta Klang, ISAN CULTURAL routes the biggest home of elephants in Thailand. The Centre allows visitors to experience the unique bond between elephants and the Kui people. Originally migrating from Cambodia to Thailand several hundred years ago, the Kui people lead a simple life and elephants are an integral part of the Kui culture where almost every household has one as a family member.

The Centre was established to pass on the culture of the Kui, their knowledge about elephants, and to show the loving relationsthip between the Kui and the elephants. Elephant Study Centre Festival Amazing Surin Elephant Round-up On the third week of November of every year, the Amazing Surin Elephant Round-up is organised in Amphoe Mueang Surin and features an elephant parade, elephant shows, as well as the demonstration of elephant training techniques and Kui’s ritual. Travel to Amphoe Khwao Sinarin and take some time to explore the Ban Khwao Sinarin Silverware and Silk Village. Ban Khwao Sinarin is home to several well-known silversmiths in Thailand, and visitors can learn the traditional techniques of making silverware and purchase products; such as, bracelets, belts, rings, and earrings. Apart from silverware, Ban Khwao Sinarin is also known for the beautiful Hol silk, which is produced only in Surin province and has a specific kind of tie-and-dye technique, similar to that of Matmi silk. Visitors can also observe the Hol silk-weaving process and buy silk products as souvenirs. Ban Khwao Sinarin Silverware and Silk Village 36 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Continue the journey to Amphoe Sikhoraphum and visit Prasat Si Khoraphum, a stunning Khmer sanctuary that features 5 brick structures on the same laterite base measuring 25 metres wide, 26 metres long and 1.5 metres high and are surrounded by a U-shaped pond. The carvings on the lintels and doorframes indicated that Prasat Si Khoraphum was built around the 12th century in dedication to Hinduism. However, other evidences found at the site show that the temple was renovated and converted into a Buddhist temple in the 17th century. Prasat Si Khoraphum Complete the trip by visiting Ban A-lue in Amphoe Samrong Thap. Ban A-lue is home to a group of Kui people, who do not raise elephants like at Ban Ta Klang, but raise silkworms and weave silk fabric instead. Ban A-lue offers a homestay experience to visitors, which enables visitors to discover the ancient Kui traditions and customs. A visit to the village allows visitors to explore an ancient Kui house and ancient tools at Ban A-lue the Wat Takhian Kui Cultural Learning Centre and learn to make ‘Wan Pro Hom’, a necklace made from herbs that the Kui people usually wear in important ceremonies. Visitors can also learn about sericulture, natural colour-dyeing, and silk-weaving in which the distinctive pattern of the silk fabric here is the black-footed Hol silk with Prasat pattern (castle pattern), which is inspired by Prasat Si Khoraphum. 37 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Contact Information Amphoe Chaloem Phra Kiat Buri Ram Phanom Rung Historical Park N 14° 31.912’ E 102° 56.416’ Amphoe Mueang Buri Ram Mu 2, Tambon Ta Pek, Amphoe Chaloem Phra Kiat, Buri Ram City Pillar Shrine +66 (0) 4466 6251 N 14° 59.772’ E 103° 06.827’ Every day 6.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. Chira Road, Tambon Nai Mueang, Amphoe Mueang Buri Ram, Buri Ram Wat Khao Angkhan Every day 6.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. N 14° 32.059’ E 102° 50.070’ Tambon Charoen Suk, Amphoe Chaloem Khao Kradong Forest Park Phra Kiat, Buri Ram N 14° 56.430’ E 103° 05.654’ Ban Nam Sap, Tambon Samet, Ban Charoen Suk Amphoe Mueang Buri Ram, Buri Ram N 14° 33.298’ E 102° 51.404’ Ronnaphop Narong Mu 12, Tambon Charoen Suk, Amphoe Chaloem +66 (8) 1470 1022, +66 (0) 4463 7349 Phra Kiat, Buri Ram Samruai Simarueang Amphoe Huai Rat +66 (8) 9526 6071, +66 (8) 5632 7629 Remark: Please make an appointment in advance Sanuan Nok Thai Silk Village for group visits. N 14° 56.191’ E 103° 10.998’ Mu 2, Tambon Sanuan, Amphoe Huai Rat, Amphoe Prakhon Chai Buri Ram Suttha Koriram Prasat Hin Mueang Tam +66 (9) 5801 1693 N 14° 29.785’ E 102° 58.948’ Remark: The village offers an English-speaking Ban Khok Mueang, Tambon Charakhe Mak, guided tour service. Please make an appointment Amphoe Prakhon Chai, Buri Ram in advance for group visits. +66 (0) 4466 6251 Every day 6.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. Amphoe Phutthaisong Ban Khok Mueang Hua Saphan Mai Thai Silk Village N 14° 29.733’ E 102° 58.725’ N 15° 32.918’ E 103° 03.489’ Ban Khok Mueang, Tambon Charakhe Mak, Mu 3, Tambon Ban Yang, Amphoe Phutthaisong, Amphoe Prakhon Chai, Buri Ram Buri Ram Ampai Chanwong Panya Sitthananon +66 (9) 3551 1130 +66 (0) 4466 6247 ext.8089 Ruchapha Nianthaisong +66 (8) 7961 1261 Remark: Please make an appointment in advance Every day 8.30 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. for group visits. Remark: Please make an appointment in advance for group visits. SURIN Amphoe Na Pho Amphoe Phanom Dong Rak SUPPORT Foundation, Ban Na Pho Prasat Ta Muean N 15° 38.408’ E 102° 57.366’ N 14° 21.325’ E 103° 15.513’ 119/4 Mu 1, Tambon Na Pho, Amphoe Na Pho, Ban Nong Khan Na, Tambon Ta Miang, Buri Ram Amphoe Phanom Dong Rak, Surin Saengduean Channuan +66 (8) 4960 4291, +66 (0) 4468 6044 Monday – Saturday 9.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Remark: Please make an appointment in advance for group visits. 38 ISAN CULTURAL routes Phimai Historical Park

Prasat Ta Muean Tot Amphoe Khwao Sinarin N 14° 21.293’ E 103° 15.689’ Ban Nong Khan Na, Tambon Ta Miang, Ban Khwao Sinarin Silverware and Silk Village Amphoe Phanom Dong Rak, Surin N 14° 59.706’ E 103° 35.835’ 68 Mu 3, Ban Chok, Tambon Khwao Sinarin, Prasat Ta Muean Thom Amphoe Khwao Sinarin, Surin N 14° 21.013’ E 103° 15.987’ Puan Chiaothong Ban Nong Khan Na, Tambon Ta Miang, +66 (8) 1309 4352, +66 (8) 9043 6794 Amphoe Phanom Dong Rak, Surin Remark: Please make an appointment in advance for group visits. Amphoe Prasat Amphoe Samrong Thap Prasat Ban Phluang Ban A-lue Homestay N 14° 36.622’ E 103° 25.512’ N14° 58.949’ E103° 55.359’ Tambon Kang Aen, Amphoe Prasat, Surin Mu 4, Ban A-lue, Tambon Samrong Thap, Amphoe Samrong Thap, Surin Amphoe Mueang Surin Saphrang Withunat +66 (6) 2171 9052 Wat Burapharam Please check with the Ban A-lue Homestay for N 14° 53.047’ E 103° 29.626’ more information on accommodation and Tambon Nai Mueang, Amphoe Mueang Surin, activities fees. Surin Remark: Please make an appointment in advance. Ban Tha Sawang Useful contact information N 14° 57.389’ E 103° 28.345’ in Buri Ram and Surin Chansoma Ancient Gold Brocade Silk Weaving Group, Ban Tha Sawang, Tambon Tha Sawang, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), Surin Office Amphoe Mueang Surin, Surin (Responsible area: Surin) Niran Sailekthim +66 (8) 4458 6099, +66 (8) 4962 3439 +66 (0) 4451 4447-8 Every day 8.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. (closed on Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), Buri Ram Office public holidays) (Responsible area: Buri Ram) Remark: Please make an appointment in advance for group visits. +66 (0) 4463 4722-3, +66 (6) 2595 8030 Amphoe Tha Tum Highway Police 1193 Tourist Police 1155 Elephant Study Centre N 15° 15.973’ E 103° 29.848’ Please visit Ban Ta Klang, Tambon Krapho, Amphoe Tha Tum, www.tourismthailand.org/Buri-Ram Surin for more information on accommodation, +66 (0) 4414 5050 restaurants, and attractions in Buri Ram. Every day 8.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. www.tourismthailand.org/Surin 100 Baht for more information on accommodation, Remark: The elephant show runs twice a day at restaurants, and attractions in Surin. 10.00 a.m. – 11.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m. – 3.00 p.m. Remark: It is recommended that visitors use a tour Amphoe Sikhoraphum guide when travelling this route, as there may be a language barrier. Prasat Si Khoraphum N 14° 56.649’ E 103° 47.943’ Ban Ra-ngaeng, Amphoe Sikhoraphum, Surin Every day 7.30 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. 50 Baht 39 ISAN CULTURAL routes

ROUTE 3 SI SA KET – UBON RATCHATHANI The Trail of Exquisite Buddhist Arts, Glorious History of the Khmer Empire, and the Time-honoured Local Wisdom of the Northeast Introduction: The Si Sa Ket – Ubon Ratchathani route begins in Si Sa Ket province, where visitors are invited to explore several magnificent temples, trace the glorious history of the Khmer Empire through Khmer ruins visit, and observe the incredible thousand-year-old stone carvings at Pha Mo I Daeng. Continue the journey to Ubon Ratchathani province and spend time following the trails of devotion to Buddhism of the local people through temple visits and complete the trip by learning about the centuries-old local wisdom of brassware making. 40 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Amphoe Uthumphon Phisai 2 5030 3 2373 5 226 226 4 294 1 To 226 294 Ubon Ratchathani To Surin 220 221 Amphoe Amphoe Huai Thap Than Mueang Si Sa Ket 2167 24 To 221 Ubon Ratchathani 6 7 24 2167 Amphoe Amphoe Prang Ku Kantharalak 220 24 To Surin 2111 8 221 2335 Amphoe Khun Han 9 SI SA KET Amphoe Prang Ku 6. Prasat Prang Ku Amphoe Mueang Si Sa Ket 7. Prasat Ban Samo 1. Wat Maha Phuttharam 2. Wat Phrathat Suphannahong Amphoe Khun Han 8. Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaeo Amphoe Uthumphon Phisai 3. Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Noi Amphoe Kantharalak 4. Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Yai 9. Khao Phra Wihan National Park and Pha Mo I Daeng Amphoe Huai Thap Than 5. Prasat Ban Prasat

To Amphoe Khueang Nai 8 2075 23 7 Ubon Ratchathani 5 231 23 Airport 4 To 6 Amphoe Sawang Wirawong 231 2 Mun River 3 Amphoe Mueang 217 Ubon Ratchathani Mun River To 226 24 231 Si Sa Ket 1 2178 Amphoe To Warin Chamrap Amphoe Det Udom To Amphoe Samrong UBON RATCHATHANI 6. Wat Maha Wanaram 7. Wat Phrathat Nong Bua Amphoe Warin Chamrap 8. Ban Pa-Ao Brassware Handicraft 1. Wat Nong Pah Pong Preservation Centre Amphoe Mueang Ubon Ratchatani 2. Wat Thung Si Mueang 3. Ubon Ratchathani National Museum 4. Wat Burapharam 5. Wat Si Pradu

Day 1 Start the trip at Wat Maha Phuttharam in Amphoe Mueang Si Sa Ket, which is the centre of faith for the local community. Also known as Wat Phra To (Big Buddha Image Temple), the temple houses Luangpho To, a Buddha image in a subduing Mara position measuring 3.50 metres wide and 6.85 metres high. Then, visit Wat Phrathat Suphannahong to witness the spectacular Ubosot (ordination hall) sitting on a Suphannahong (Golden Swan) Boat that floats in the middle of a pond. Measuring 5 metres wide and 13.60 metres long, the Ubosot not only showcases remarkable architecture, but also enshrines the relics of the Lord Buddha in which visitors can pay homage. Wat Phrathat Suphannahong Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Noi Make a trip to Amphoe Uthumphon Phisai and visit Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Noi, a Khmer ruin that comprises the main Prang (tower), a Bannalai (library), and a laterite pond that is situated outside the boundary wall. The Baphoun-style lintels found at the Sanctuary suggest that the structures were constructed in the 11th century for religious purposes and the Bayon architecture in some parts of the Sanctuary show that it was renovated as the Arokhayasala (hospital) during the reign of King Jayavarman VII in the 13th century. After taking a lunch break, visit Prasat Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Yai Sa Kamphaeng Yai, the biggest and best preserved Khmer ruins in Si Sa 43 Ket province, which is located within ISAN CULTURAL routes the grounds of Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai. Surrounded by a 54-metre-wide and 62-metre-long cloister, this Khmer sanctuary comprises three Prangs on the same platform, in which the main Prang in the middle is made of sand- stone while the other two Prangs are made of bricks, one other Prang, and two Bannalais. An ancient Khmer inscription found at the cloister near the entrance and the Baphuon style of architecture suggested that Prasat

Sa Kamphaeng Yai was constructed as a shrine dedicated to God Shiva in the 11th century and converted into a Buddhist temple in the 13th century. Thirteen lintels have been found at the sanctuary, most of which are in good condition and illustrate the exquisite artwork created by the artisans thousands of years ago. Visitors can also visit other places of interest within the temple’s grounds including the Ubosot that features beautiful murals, as well as pay respect to the body of Luangpu Khrueang Suphattho, former abbot of the temple, which is kept inside a glass coffin. A visit on a weekend enables visitors to learn more about Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Yai and other places within the temple’s grounds, as there are young local guides who will provide comprehensive information while taking visitors around the site. Continue to Amphoe Huai Thap Than and visit Prasat Prasat Ban Prasat Ban Prasat, which is located in the grounds of Wat Prasat Phanaram. Prasat Ban Prasat comprises three brick Prangs on the same laterite base and one Gopura (entrance gate) on the east. The mixture of Khlang and Bapoun styles of architecture indicate that this sanctuary may have been built around the 11th century. The renovation with the addition of the Lan Xang style of art in the later period has made Prasat Ban Prasat distinctively different from other Khmer ruins. Late afternoon, travel to Amphoe Prang Ku to explore the other two interesting Khmer sanctuaries of Si Sa Ket province. Start with Prasat Prang Ku, a Brahmin temple from the 11th century that comprises three Prangs standing on a same laterite base in which the first two prangs are made of brick while the other prang is made of laterite. Artefacts worth noting are the lintels with elaborate designs depicting God Indra Prasat Prang Ku riding the three-headed elephant, God Vishnu riding on a Garuda that stands on two Singhas, and a scene from the Ramayana epic. Move on to Prasat Ban Samo, one of the Arokhayasala built around the 13th century. The small redented main Prang is made of laterite, while the Bannalai is situated on the southeast of the main Prang, and a Barai (pond) is located outside the enclosure wall. 44 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Day 2 Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaeo Early morning, go to Amphoe Khun Han to witness the unique Ubosot of Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaeo, which is also known as Wat Lan Khuat or Million, Bottles Temple. The temple has got its name from the Ubosot that is decorated with millions of colourful bottles. Not only is the Ubosot creatively and skillfully adorned with glass bottles, but all the structures in the temple including walls, pillars, and bell tower were decorated with bottles. Even the murals on the wall were crafted from bottle caps. Then, make a trip to Amphoe Kantharalak to the Khao Phra Wihan National Park, which is home to several viewpoints that offer panoramic views of the Phanom Dong Rak Mountain Range and the surroundings. Visitors who visit the Park early in the morning can catch a breathtaking sight of the sea of fog on some lucky mornings, especially around September to November. One of the most famous and most visited places in the National Park is Pha Mo I Deang, a rock plateau on a high cliff that Pha Mo I Deang overlooks the Thai-Cambodian border in which visitors can also enjoy the view of Preah Vihear Sanctuary. To the south of Pha Mo I Deang is a set of ancient bas reliefs carved on the surface of the red sandstone cliff depicting three Khmer-style gods believed to be carved some 1,500 years ago, even before the construction of the Preah Vihear Sanctuary. Pha Mo I Deang

After spending time at the Khao Phra Wihan National Park, depart Si Sa Ket province and head to Ubon Ratchathani province, where the first destination is Wat Nong Pah Pong in Amphoe Warin Chamrap. Founded by the highly revered Phra Bodhiyana Thera, also known as Luangpu Chah Subhaddo, Wat Nong Pah Pong is one of the best known forest temples and has branch temples in several countries around the world. After Luangpu Chah passed away, his body was cremated within the temple’s grounds and that location has now become a stunning golden Chedi that contains his relics where visitors can come to pay respect. Visitors are also recommended to visit the Phra Bodhiyana Thera Museum, which contains a collection of Luangpu Chah’s belongings, a wax figure of Luangpu Chah, as well as displays of articles and items that tell the story of Luangpu Chah and his teachings. Day 3 Wat Nong Pah Pong Wat Thung Si Mueang Begin the last day of the trip at Wat Thung Si Mueang, an ancient temple situated in the heart of Amphoe Mueang Ubon Ratchathani. The temple houses a magnificent wooden Ho Trai Klang Nam or Tripitaka Library that is constructed on stilts in the middle of the pond, with the purpose of protecting the Tripitaka from insects and termites. The four-room wooden hall showcases a beautiful mixture of Thai, Burmese, and Laotian architectural styles, making it one of the most attractive Tripitaka Libraries in the country. Located within the temple’s grounds is an Ubosot that features murals depicting scenes from the Vessantara Jataka (one of the popular Buddhist tales). 46 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Then, spend time getting to know more about Ubon Ratchathani province by visiting the Ubon Ratchathani National Museum. Constructed in 1918 to serve as the Ubon Ratchathani City Hall, the Museum building now features exhibitions that explains the history, geography, archaeology, folk culture, and ethnology of Ubon Ratchathani. The Museum also conserves and promotes local cultural heritage through displays of archaeological finds, as well as local textiles and crafts. Festival Illuminated Boat Procession To mark the end of Buddhist Lent, the Illuminated Boat Procession is held around the end of the Buddhist Lent Period (usually around October). Visitors can enjoy witnessing the beautiful sight of glowing boats illuminating the Mun River at night. Wat Burapharam The next place to visit is Wat Burapharam, a temple that was once a residence of several famous meditation monks including Achan Sitha Chayaseno, Achan Man Phurithatto, and Achan Sao Kantasilo, in which visitors can find life-sized stone statues of these venerable monks inside a Wihan (image hall). The temple houses an ancient Sim (ordination hall built in the Northeastern style) facing the Mun River, and twin Ho Trai (Tripitaka Library) on stilts, both of which are made of wood and have gable roofs. After lunch, call in at Wat Si Pradu, a temple Wat Si Pradu that features a beautiful Ubosot with remarkable murals of the Lord Buddha’s life painted by local artists. Located within the temple is a Buddhist Lent Candle Museum that showcases Buddhist Lent candles produced by local artists for the annual competition. Situated across the road from the temple is the Si Pradu Buddhist Lent Candles Learning Centre where visitors can learn the art of candle-crafting, which is a cultural heritage that represents Ubon Ratchathani province and has been passed on for many generations. 47 ISAN CULTURAL routes

About Buddhist Lent Candles Buddhist Lent lasts 3 months and in this time, the monks are confined to their temple grounds and dedicate their time to study, meditation, and prayer. Originally, a bundle of small candles was presented to the monks along with other basic essentials to use during this period. Over time, people started to carve the candles into beautiful shapes and in the reign of King Rama V the Great, the Candle Festival and competitions associated with it were established to find the most beautiful candle. The majority of the Buddhist Lent candle decorations are based on Buddhism, inspired by the story of the Lord Buddha’s life or reflected in the Buddhist teachings. Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival Festival Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival Ubon Ratchathani province is renowned for one of the biggest and most spectacular candle festivals in Thailand. The Festival takes place around July of every year to mark the beginning of Buddhist Lent. This festival illustrates the people’s devotion to the Buddhist tradition as well as their skills in carving magnificent candles. Some of the highlights of the Festival includes the Candle Procession, the Candle Competition, a Light and Sound Presentation, cultural shows, and displays of local artisan’s candle sculptures. Visit Wat Maha Wanaram, also known as Wat Pa Yai, to pay homage to Prachao Yai In Paeng, one of the most highly revered Buddha images of Ubon Ratchathani province. Crafted in 1807 in the Laotian style, Prachao Yai In Paeng is a stucco Buddha image covered with gold leaf, measuring 4 metres wide and 5 metres high in the subduing Mara position. A visit to Ubon Ratchathani province on the full moon day of the 5th lunar month, which usually falls in April, enables visitors to join in the annual celebration that is held to honour Prachao Yai In Paeng. 48 ISAN CULTURAL routes

Wat Phrathat Nong Bua Next, visit Wat Phrathat Nong Bua to see the Bodh Gaya-style pagoda named ‘Phrathat Chedi Si Maha Bodhi’, which was built in 1957 to mark the 25th century of Buddhism. The impressive white and gold Pagoda, measuring 17 metres wide and 56 metres high, houses the relics of the Lord Buddha and is surrounded by four smaller chedis at each corner. Complete the trip in Ubon Ratchathani province by learning about the time-honoured local wisdom at Ban Pa-Ao Brassware Handicraft Preservation Centre. The villagers at Ban Pa Ao practise the craft of making brassware using the traditional methods handed down for over 200 years. The said-method is called the ‘lost-wax casting technique’ in which the casting mould is made of wax covered with clay and once the casting mould is heated, the wax is melted to create a space for the liquid brass to fill in the mould. Visitors can observe all the steps of the brassware making process as well as purchase handcrafted brassware; such as, bell, bowl, keychain, and container as souvenirs before travelling back home. Ban Pa-Ao Brassware Handicraft Preservation Centre 49 ISAN CULTURAL routes