Chinese heritage cooking

56 LOHKAIYIK CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 Literally translated as braised chicken wings, this very old an popularly sold by itinerant hawkers back in the 1950s and 19 perpetual simmer, their vats of loh kai yik developed an inestim This recipe has been slightly adapted to suit modern taste traditional loh kai yik included pig skin (to give body to the grav intestines and liver) and cuttlefish (joo her). Loh kai yik is of freshly steamed white rice. Kangkong (water spinach) 250 g (9 oz) Fried bean curd puffs (tau pok) 8 Chopped garlic 3 Tbsp Chopped ginger 1 Tbsp Shallots 5, peeled and finely chopped Cooking oil 3 Tbsp Red fermented bean curd (nam yee) 2½ Tbsp, mashed Liquid from jar of red fermented bean curd (nam yee) 1 Tbsp Preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 1 Tbsp, mashed Brown sugar 1½ Tbsp 2H. o i sRinin sea ufcriee d2 bTebasnp curd puffs in warm water and 3O. y s tpPeaortu sndadruy .gc eCau r1lti c eT, abgcsihpn gpeurf fa nind hsahlaf.llots together into a 4C.h ic scSkwoeeatni rra ls le iewn gp oosak is2l ,to ,e tv.heeearcn hm a ecduddti upimnotu ohn ed3ae tod.r Wp4ah speteine cavenesdry hot, Chicfkrey,n s twirrininggs c6o, nesatacnht lcyu, tf oinr t2o– 33 mpainrtust ePso, rukn tbilelly 55.0 0 sAgod fdt(e1 rn elebdd f1ae½nrmd o efzrn)at,g ecrdau ntb tei natnod c ulirgdh, tliyts blirqouwidn,ed. Dproe sneortv eruds hso tyh ibse satne pp. aste and sugar. Cook for 6la. r g e1A –dc2dh muhnoiknissui tnWe saa,n tsedtr iro r7yin5sgt0e rcm osnla su(t2cae4ns tf llya ,no udzn m/ti li 3xp awcsuetpelsl .)c oAodkds

LOHKAIYIK Literally translated as braised chicken wings, this very old and traditional dish was popularly sold by itinerant hawkers back in the 1950s and 1960s. Kept all day at a perpetual simmer, their vats of loh kai yik developed an inestimable depth of flavour. This recipe has been slightly adapted to suit modern taste preferences, but the traditional loh kai yik included pig skin (to give body to the gravy), pork offal (such as intestines and liver) and cuttlefish (joo her). Loh kai yik is best enjoyed with a bowl of freshly steamed white rice. (water spinach) 250 g (9 oz) Fried bean curd puffs (tau pok) 8 Chopped garlic 3 Tbsp Chopped ginger 1 Tbsp 5, peeled and finely chopped Cooking oil 3 Tbsp Red fermented bean curd (nam 2½ Tbsp, mashed Liquid from jar of red fermented ) 1 Tbsp Preserved soy bean paste 1 Tbsp, mashed Brown sugar 1½ Tbsp 2H. o i sRinin sea ufcriee d2 bTebasnp curd puffs in warm water and 3O. y s tpPeaortu sndadruy .gc eCau r1lti c eT, abgcsihpn gpeurf fa nind hsahlaf.llots together into a 4C.h ic scSkwoeeatni rra ls le iewn gp oosak is2l ,to ,e tv.heeearcn hm a ecduddti upimnotu ohn ed3ae tod.r Wp4ah speteine cavenesdry hot, Chicfkrey,n s twirrininggs c6o, nesatacnht lcyu, tf oinr t2o– 33 mpainrtust ePso, rukn tbilelly 55.0 0 sAgod fdt(e1 rn elebdd f1ae½nrmd o efzrn)at,g ecrdau ntb tei natnod c ulirgdh, tliyts blirqouwidn,ed. Dproe sneortv eruds hso tyh ibse satne pp. aste and sugar. Cook for 6la. r g e1A –dc2dh muhnoiknissui tnWe saa,n tsedtr iro r7yin5sgt0e rcm osnla su(t2cae4ns tf llya ,no udzn m/ti li 3xp awcsuetpelsl .)c oAodkds





58 FRIED PRAWNS CHINESE HERITAGEWITH BLACK SAUCE Serves 3–4 This dish reflects the purity of the Cantonese approach to ingredients and bring out their essential flavour with light homestyle dish should be made with the freshest prawns (shrim frying them as an initial step turns them deep red and enhance lard if you have it available, as it gives the prawns a special frag Fresh big prawns (shrimps) 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), about 10–12 prawns Salt 1 tsp Cold water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Liquid lard (page 32) or peanut oil 2 Tbsp Sugar 1 tsp Spring onion (scallion) 1, cut into 4- cm (1½-in) lengths Ginger 3 slices Red chilli 1, deseeded and cut into thin strips Purple onion ½, small, peeled and cut into thin wedges Superior dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp Sesame oil ¼ tsp Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp 1. Wash prawns well. 2. W Citohm kbitinchee sna lstc wissitohr sc, osldn ipw aotfef ra ilnl tah ebior wlel gasn dan sdtir trtimo doisffs otlhvee. Add prawns to bowl, shcaorvpe rp oanindt sc hoinll tfhoer i3r 0h emaidnsu.tes. This step gives the 3. Hperaawt an sw ae lfli-rsmeaesro tneexdtu wreo. kJu osvt er medium-high heat. Pbleafcoere p ryaowu nsst ainrt wcoookk, isnpga, cdinragin prawns well and tphaet mdr oy uwt ietvhe pnalyp. eLre tto fwrye ulsn.disturbed for 45–60 seconds, then flip over each 4. pArdadw lna radn odr froyil faonr d4 5s usgeacor ntod st hmeo wreo. kP raanwdn lse twill bsueg naer amrlye lct oaonkde dc atrharmoueglihs ea ntod a pale 5. bArdodw snpe, rdsint iagrtr ionthngei oo nen,d cggeei nosg.r eTtrrw,a ncichsefile.l irT hapnirsad w oninlsli ootnon latyo p twalakoteek .a faenwd ssteirc-ofrnyd sfo. r 30 seconds. Add

FRIED PRAWNS WITH BLACK SAUCE This dish reflects the purity of the Cantonese approach to cuisine—find the best ingredients and bring out their essential flavour with light cooking. This classic homestyle dish should be made with the freshest prawns (shrimps) you can get; dry- frying them as an initial step turns them deep red and enhances their aroma. Do use lard if you have it available, as it gives the prawns a special fragrance. Fresh big prawns (shrimps) 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), about 10–12 prawns Salt 1 tsp Cold water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Liquid lard (page 32) or peanut oil 2 Tbsp 1 tsp Spring onion (scallion) 1, cut into 4- (1½-in) lengths Ginger 3 slices Red chilli 1, deseeded and cut into thin strips Purple onion ½, small, peeled and cut into thin wedges Superior dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp Sesame oil ¼ tsp Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp 1. Wash prawns well. 2. W Citohm kbitinchee sna lstc wissitohr sc, osldn ipw aotfef ra ilnl tah ebior wlel gasn dan sdtir trtimo doisffs otlhvee. Add prawns to bowl, shcaorvpe rp oanindt sc hoinll tfhoer i3r 0h emaidnsu.tes. This step gives the 3. Hperaawt an sw ae lfli-rsmeaesro tneexdtu wreo. kJu osvt er medium-high heat. bPleafcoere p ryaowu nsst ainrt wcoookk, isnpga, cdinragin prawns well and pthaet mdr oy uwt ietvhe pnalyp. eLre tto fwrye ulsn.disturbed for 45–60 seconds, then flip over each 4. pArdadw lna radn odr froyil faonr d4 5s usgeacor ntod st hmeo wreo. kP raanwdn lse twill sbueg naer amrlye lct oaonkde dc atrharmoueglihs ea ntod a pale 5. bArdodw snpe, rdsint iagrtr ionthngei oo nen,d cggeei nosg.r eTtrrw,a ncichsefile.l irT hapnirsad w oninlsli ootnon latyo p twalakoteek .a faenwd ssteirc-ofrnyd sfo. r 30 seconds. Add





60 STEAMED WHOLE FISHCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 The success of this dish depends on using supremely fresh fi timing. Diners should be seated and waiting for the fish as it the fish will wait for no one. Every element is designed to preci of the fish in some way—the high heat cooks the flesh q freshness, the acidity of the spring onion (scallion) and ginger b the oils in the fish fat and the final drizzle of sauce over the co (savouriness). This recipe can be used for fish such as sea bass, (Wsohoonle hfoischk )1, ,s anbaopupte r7,0 s0o lge ,( 1an½d lsbo) on. Shaoxing rice wine 1 tsp Salt ⅛ tsp Ginger 4–5 thin slices Spring onion (scallion) 1, cut into 3-cm (1-in) lengths Sauce Rock sugar 25 g (⅘ oz), finely crushed Water 150 ml (5 fl oz) Coriander leaves (cilantro) with roots 1 small sprig, well washed White peppercorns ¼ tsp Dried tangerine peel 1 very small piece Superior light soy sauce 80 ml (2½ fl oz) Superior dark soy sauce ½ tsp Garnishes Spring 2o.n i oiGtn usist (avsnecdary ll citloheniacsnk) , f 2ims, hac,u kteth ieann tfo er iwnfisn esel awsheells a onnd pat dry. If 3s.h r e eLdasyc hR2 e sdoid re c3h o iclrlh i so1lip,t s dittie caskleso enadgcer odits ssa bnaed ls lychu aatl lnoidnw tos po flvaianyle diti sohut. shreRtdhusab tY iots u ajnullgs ot gvbeiingrg gweerirt h4th -rcaimcne t(hw1e½in fe-isi nha).n Ldkan syoa btl,th .epeeled and

STEAMED WHOLE FISH The success of this dish depends on using supremely fresh fish and having precise timing. Diners should be seated and waiting for the fish as it steams, as once done, the fish will wait for no one. Every element is designed to precisely enhance the taste of the fish in some way—the high heat cooks the flesh quickly, preserving its freshness, the acidity of the spring onion (scallion) and ginger balance the richness of the oils in the fish fat and the final drizzle of sauce over the cooked fish adds umami (savouriness). This recipe can be used for fish such as sea bass, grouper, marble goby (Wsohoonle hfoischk )1, ,s anbaopupte r7,0 s0o lge ,( 1an½d lsbo) on. Shaoxing rice wine 1 tsp ⅛ tsp 4–5 thin slices Spring onion (scallion) 1, cut (1-in) lengths Sauce Rock sugar 25 g (⅘ oz), finely 150 ml (5 fl oz) Coriander leaves (cilantro) 1 small sprig, well washed White peppercorns ¼ Dried tangerine peel 1 very small piece Superior light soy sauce 80 ml (2½ fl oz) Superior dark soy sauce ½ tsp Garnishes Spring 2o.n i oiGtn usist (avsnecdary ll citloheniacsnk) , f 2ims, hac,u kteth ieann tfo er iwnfisn esel awsheells a onnd pat dry. If 3. eLayc hR2 e sdoid re c3h o iclrlh i so1lip,t s dittie caskleso enadgcer odits ssa bnaed ls lychu aatl lnoidnw tos po flvaianyle diti sohut. RthuabtY iots u ajnullgs ot gvbeiingrg gweerirt h4th -rcaimcne t(hw1e½in fe-isi nha).n Ldkan syoa btl,th .epeeled and





62 Steamed Egg CHINESE HERITAGEServes 4–6 This is an absolute must at every hawker stall selling cooked also a dish that is fulfilling to master cooking at home. The key to avoid bubbles setting around the edge or overcooking the water in the steamer at a steady but low boil. You can use u instead of stock for a different flavour and denser texture. Eggs 3 Light stock (page 33) 450 ml (15 fl oz) Sesame oil ¼ tsp Ground white pepper ¼ tsp Salt ¼ tsp or to taste 1. Whisk all ingredients together until blended. Strain through a very fine mesh sieve— 2th. e Cfianreerf uthllye lmadelesh m, tihxteu rsem ionototh 4e ri ntdhiev idcusatla srde.r vSintrgain a sebcoonwdls tiomr e1. large bowl. Use porcelain bowls rather than metal; the egg must not be 3. mBroinrge thean w 5a-tcemr in(2 y-ionu) r dseteapm wehr attoe vae rvery gentle bowil. l Tyhoeu wuastee.r should tremble rather than bubble. Steam individual bowls together for about 20 minutes: a single large bowl should take 25–30 minutes to reach doneness. When it is done, the egg will look just 4. sSetr,v esl ihgoht,ly w witohb abnlyy ionf tthhee cteonptprein gbsu tb neolotw li.quid. A toothpick inserted into the centre NOTsEhould come out wet but clean. If it has Huenrec aoreo ksoemde etogpgpi ncgl isnugggiensgti otnos foitr, t hsitse daismh: • fTohre ma ofset w mtrianduititoensa l mgaronriseh.es are chopped spring onion (scallion), ground white pepper, sesame oil and a little light soy sauce. • Sprinkle with some coriander leaves (cilantro) and some of the

Steamed Egg Serves 4–6 This is an absolute must at every hawker stall selling cooked dishes with rice. It is also a dish that is fulfilling to master cooking at home. The key to making it right and to avoid bubbles setting around the edge or overcooking the egg, is to keep the water in the steamer at a steady but low boil. You can use unsweetened soy milk instead of stock for a different flavour and denser texture. Light stock (page 33) 450 ml (15 fl oz) Sesame oil ¼ tsp Ground white pepper ¼ tsp ¼ tsp or to taste 1. Whisk all ingredients together until blended. Strain through a very fine mesh sieve— 2th. e Cfianreerf uthllye lmadelesh m, tihxteu rsem ionototh 4e ri ntdhiev idcusatla srde.r vSintrgain a sebcoonwdls tiomr e1. large bowl. Use porcelain bowls rather than metal; the egg must not be 3. mBroinrge thean w 5a-tcemr in(2 y-ionu) r dseteapm wehr attoe vae rvery gentle bowil. l Tyhoeu wuastee.r should tremble rather than bubble. Steam individual bowls together for about 20 minutes: a single large bowl should take 25–30 minutes to reach doneness. When it is done, the egg will look just 4. sSetr,v esl ihgoht,ly w witohb abnlyy ionf tthhee cteonptprein gbsu tb neolotw li.quid. A toothpick inserted into the centre should come out wet but clean. If it has Huenrec aoreo ksoemde etogpgpi ncgl isnugggiensgti otnos foitr, t hsitse daismh: • fTohre ma ofset w mtrianduititoensa l mgaronriseh.es are chopped spring onion (scallion), ground white pepper, sesame oil and a little light soy sauce. • Sprinkle with some coriander leaves (cilantro) and some of the





64 Siew Mai Serves 4–6 CHINESE HERITAGE This classic dim sum item is so spare and simple that o ingredients should be used. Hand-chopping the pork and praw is crucial to achieving a juicy mouthfeel; machine-minced p making the siew mai dense and tough. Using pork that is too dense and tough results, so be sure your pork is marbled with Fresh prawns (shrimps) 180 g (6½ oz) Pork shoulder or leg meat with some fat 210 g (7½ oz) Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Rice wine 1 tsp Potato starch 1 tsp Sugar ½ tsp Salt ¼ tsp or to taste Sesame oil ¼ tsp Ground white pepper ¼ tsp Round wonton skins, about 10-cm 2(4. - i ncDh iiconep pdpiionargmk mewtoietthri)o an2 s5c l–teo2a 8vm esirkn, icntehs e itnF rcueossaehr s recelrpyaeba treode or shrimonp throee c h(optpiionnga bl)oard. Scatter prawns over pork 3L.e t t usaaTtrrnciaeerdn ifsncoifno erse nrogl typyirn eoduseriaekcnu e atcdovne. e,dc g rhpieocretpaa wbwulnein t miell e,pi xaprtvaouwetraesnt oastos an ebeodweld and 1. s tPaerechl p, rsauwgnasr,. s(aFlrte, eszees asmheel los ila anndd hpeeapdpse fr.o rS tuirs ein in stcoooncmek spd, airicfet c dttheioesni r mewdiix.t)th u Srcelhit. o Cpporsavtiwecrkn sbs otoaw lohl newglpith plastic 4th. e irwF obrraampc kasn cadinr cldele t remwmiatrohivn yeao teuth,r rrteehafurdimg-leibkr eaa tnebddla ,f cofkor erifnintegsetirn. eLas.y Rinsaf2elt a wgpvleeoroaanunwserttsor n o1nbsu lhssew kontieuednlra l aosaapnnnnod dtdo o t nphppfre uaea ltfmns e ddroia xrfsybt .puflyiorlel oi2n nb ghi noodunr sit .t oW lietth tthhee stopgoeotnh,e pr.ush down on the filling as you bring the sides of the skin up with your thumb and forefinger, using them to grip and 5. sLhinaep ea tshteea smieewr tmraayi ’ws i‘twha ais tl’a.y Yeor uo fs hleotutludc ee nodr up

Siew Mai Serves 4–6 This classic dim sum item is so spare and simple that only the best quality ingredients should be used. Hand-chopping the pork and prawns to a coarse mince is crucial to achieving a juicy mouthfeel; machine-minced pork binds too tightly, making the siew mai dense and tough. Using pork that is too lean leads to similarly dense and tough results, so be sure your pork is marbled with a little fat. Fresh prawns (shrimps) 180 g (6½ oz) Pork shoulder or leg meat with some fat 210 g (7½ oz) Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp 1 tsp Potato starch 1 tsp ½ tsp Salt ¼ tsp or to taste Sesame oil ¼ tsp Ground white pepper ¼ tsp Round wonton skins, about 10-cm 2(4. - i ncDh iiconep pdpiionargmk mewtoietthri)o an2 s5c l–teo2a 8vm esirkn, icntehs e itnF rcueossaehr s recelrpyaeba treode or shrimonp throee c h(optpiionnga bl)oard. Scatter prawns over pork 3L.e t t uaasTtrnrciaeerdn ifsncoifno erse nrogl typyirn eoduseriaekcnu e atcdovne. e,dc g rhpieocretpaa wbwulnein t miell e,pi xaprtvaouwetraesnt oastos an ebeodweld and 1. s tPaerechl p, rsauwgnasr,. s(aFlrte, eszees asmheel los ila anndd hpeeapdpse fr.o rS tuirs ein in stcoooncmek spd, airicfet c dttheioesni r mewdiix.t)th u Srcelhit. o Cpporsavtiwecrkn sbs otoaw lohl newglpith plastic 4th. e irwF obrraampc kasn cadinr cldele t remwmiatrohivn yeao teuth,r rrteehafurdimg-leibkr eaa tnebddla ,f cofkor erifnintegsetirn. eLas.y Rinsfa2elt a wgpvleeoroaanunwserttsor n o1nbsu lhssew kontieuednlra l aosaapnnnnod dtdo o t nphppfre uaea ltfmns e ddroia xrfsybt .puflyiorlel oi2n nb ghi noodunr sit .t oW lietth tthhee tsopgoeotnh,e pr.ush down on the filling as you bring the sides of the skin up with your thumb and forefinger, using them to grip and 5. sLhinaep ea tshteea smieewr tmraayi ’ws i‘twha ais tl’a.y Yeor uo fs hleotutludc ee nodr up





66 Spring Rolls CHINESE HERITAGEMakes 12–14 pieces This is a perennially popular snack item sold at many food stalls and dim sumPork 175 g (6¼ oz), sliced into thin shreds rLigeht ssoty saaucue 2 rtspants. CShaooxinng ricte rwinoe 2 ltspling the hSugaer a½ ttsp during deep- Dried shiitake mushrooms 4 frying isCornflour (cornstarch) 1 Tbsp Cooking oil as needed important tofor frying and ensure that thedeep-frying Minced ginger 2 tsp spring rolls areMinced garlic 2 tsp Yam bean 150 g (5⅓ oz), fpereleid eandd fin etly o an even golden brownshredded Carrot 150 g (5⅓ oz), peeled and finely colour. Theshredded Cooked bamboo shoots 100 g (3½ oz), 2fi.n e lSyo ashkr eddrideedd m Buesahnro ospmrso uints w5a5r mg (w2a toezr) ,u ntatiills spring rolls willtrimmsoeftde,ned, then drain, reserving soaking dasa trhkeeny csloioghl, tsloy43rtsi..np s eAawvHMdeseda iiraxddtwyt e e 3girt.1t. hi h nTRiT bngebbslemysopr.pi ol saionvoneigadl k imwnign auagarst lehiwwcrr aooaatoknen mdrod v wssedttiirretr a-hmmfi rncyseeo ddfaroni nurfSdmleo ssu-lhari cimgaenh ecd ah opseiesla tt1. do not over-frySalt 3t0o steasctoends, then add marinated pork. Fry for 30 trhoellms. aSrpre ibnegst5Gro.r lo l usmysAsnteakdidicrmind-n ofu w srnctyb,deah esr,afi arot,bto enrhtot h e 1pauaen5netn dpds s2 pate 0fibderc- yadroci nm nmftm oodcbr souo .t2sr aonAh s mfrdstloeohdio nuo Lmbruoa ettssresal g usnaae.rn nr syddsp q rasountuaidrtr-sef r ays npfdorrin 1g (8-ins)e swamidee o1i2l –a1n4d ssktinr-sfr yP flaoirn 4 5(a slle-pcounrpdosse) flour 1





68 Steamed Radish Cake Serves 4–6 CHINESE HERITAGE Lusciously soft when fresh from the steamer and crispy-crusted w day, steamed radish cake is equally good either way. You can s coarsely-grated radish with grated pumpkin, sweet potato, c radish, to add a touch of colour to the steamed cake. Cooking oil 2 tsp Chinese sausages (lup cheong) 2, skin removed and diced Shallots 3, peeled and minced Garlic 1 clove, peeled and minced Dried prawns (shrimps) 70 g (2½ oz), soaked in warm water for 15 minutes, drained and coarsely chopped Shaoxing rice wine 2 tsp Rice flour 200 g (7 oz) Sago flour 15 g (½ oz) Wheat starch or potato starch 20 g (⅔ oz) Lukewarm water 900 ml (30 fl oz) 2G.r o uAnddd wshhailtleo tsp eapnpde gr a½rli ct stpo pWahni taen dd asitkiro-fnry rfaodri s1h 350 mgi n(u1t2e½. A odzd) ,d prieedl epdrawns and fry for 3a.n d alSicqnifuuott it rdhiicn ehe ra hf1sal o lemfu vrSi,an apsulaottger a1o. t¼ Aefdld o.td us Dprr ii aschGen daow runwinti hsetheo eaa pnts ld saC ttafehrryoc hpu pnoetridl sprinpwgoi thaot noCi hosintna er(scsehc astloaliguoesnat)hgeers ianntod as elat ragseid me.ixing 4C.r i s pbF-ionfwreiely.d W gsrhhaitasekll ohintas lwf tahte rd aanikdo np eapnpde rc ouanrtsile lsym goroathe. ChopsCthapoelvet e.do rL t ehraeten drsd t hacleahnltdif l.l s iuMtanindxd isg tfruoarrtb e3ed0d d mfaoirkn o2un0te wsm.iitnhutes. Drain 5C.h o pwCpoaemtedbr icnforeor imdaan didkaeoinrk o lanen,a dvt hereiscn e( csfqilloauuneret rbzoea) twteer liln t oa wok or Lightrltaehlyrmeg neto o vspaqeosu tteee.x edSczt eeiwrs sdch orliiytnqe sua tigasdean. istnRlay.imn oseev e wsre emeldle swd i1iut.hm -f rHeeshat woailter,

Steamed Radish Cake Serves 4–6 Lusciously soft when fresh from the steamer and crispy-crusted when fried up the next day, steamed radish cake is equally good either way. You can substitute some of the coarsely-grated radish with grated pumpkin, sweet potato, carrot or green daikon radish, to add a touch of colour to the steamed cake. Cooking oil 2 tsp Chinese sausages (lup cheong) 2, removed and diced Shallots 3, peeled and minced 1 clove, peeled and minced Dried prawns 70 g (2½ oz), soaked in warm water for 15 minutes, drained and coarsely chopped Shaoxing rice wine 2 200 g (7 oz) 15 g (½ oz) Wheat starch or potato starch 20 g (⅔ oz) Lukewarm water 900 ml (30 fl oz) 2G.r o uAnddd wshhailtleo tsp eapnpde gr a½rli ct stpo pWahni taen dd asitkiro-fnry rfaodri s1h 350 mgi n(u1t2e½. A odzd) ,d prieedl epdrawns and fry for 3a.n d alSicqnifuuott it rdhiicn ehe ra hf1sal o lemfu vrSi,an apsulaottger a1o. t¼ Aefdld o.td us Dprr ii aschGen daow runwinti hsetheo eaa pnts ld saC ttafehrryoc hpu pnoetridl sprinpwgoi thaot noCi hosintna er(scsehc astloaliguoesnat)hgeers ianntod as elat ragseid me.ixing 4C.r i s pbF-ionfwreiely.d W gsrhhaitasekll ohintas lwf tahte rd aanikdo np eapnpde rc ouanrtsile lsym goroathe. ChopsCthapoelvet e.do rL t ehraeten drsd t hacleahnltdif l.l s iuMtanindxdi sg tfruoarrtb e3ed0d d mfaoirkn o2un0te wsm.iitnhutes. Drain 5C.h o pwCpoaemtedbr icnforeor imdaan didkaeoinrk o lanen,a dvt hereiscn e( csfqilloauuneret rbzoea) twteer liln t oa wok or Lighrlttaehlyrmeg neto o vspaqeosu tteee.x edSczt eeiwrs sdch orliiytnqe sua tigasdean. istnRlay.imn oseev e wsre emeldle swd i1iut.hm -f rHeeshat woailter,





70 STUFFED YOU TIAO CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4–5 This traditional dish remains a popular menu item at Chinese re now likely to be served with modern accompaniments such a although simple dips of sweet sauce and chilli sauce are h preparing this dish, make sure to use the freshest prawns (s ensure the tastiest results. Prawns (shrimps) 350 g (12 oz) Squid 150 g (5 oz) Pork fat 20 g (⅔ oz), finely diced Salt ¾ tsp Egg white from 1 egg Ice-cold water 90 ml (3 fl oz) Rice wine 1 Tbsp Potato starch 2 tsp Ground white pepper ½ tsp Sugar ½ tsp Yu tiao (fried crullers) 2 2Ta. p iTooc ac lsetaanr cshq uaisd ,n peueldl eodut tentacles and head and Cookcaiunntdg o moffi olh ufeotahr dpd aberteeslp,o -wsfary vtiihnnegg eCoyonenlysd. i tmDhiees cntatesrnd t Cahhceillealisd .s Paeuecel 3to. t asCskotieanr soeflfy b doidcey tpurbawe na nadn d iscqaurid, falelosnhg, twheitnh mix 4sSh.w e e lltpwebwCeseovul taihn etamtsih tfrnttanlye boidcpot,iu l hnotecbhr ierso nfaek r slggoa padaf dzrn auiaaewnsdtcwn n s eaafdi pnod tns taer etfod tairr f, eun ftdst.ersudaariezbcys le et.ste.ieq n.fw P uo R1lisriadi.nt n co 3e semc0 e, kP i ipsnmxes,otq euiatiunlafr ieutrpddoet r eew satsessuwti iabtaruhneleran csd beth.a) ilgl,.ne( gFfdSirrleimteze prawpnesp paelor nagn dth seuirgar in a blender or food processor. 5b.a c kBfcSsiocnl ehraeanen pddsde i vcu repen amtapislnat oemdsv t eeisnx .tttiuorh r rieaen atbodeo -tcwlhiokelme. pCebuaslsta tacpe ko.s mriWkn otifetoahstth iin,netos. vReirnyse prawwnest whaenll dasn, dsc poaotp durpy. the paste and throw it back 6. iSnetpoa trhaete b yoowul tioa oco imntpoa hcat livte. sR espoe yaot ut hgiset 4 sticks. M20a–k2e5 at imlenegs tuhnwtils ep asslitte dfoewelns dtheen sme idadnlde sticky. of each stick. Dust the inside of the slit with a

STUFFED YOU TIAO This traditional dish remains a popular menu item at Chinese restaurants today, but is now likely to be served with modern accompaniments such as wasabi mayonnaise, although simple dips of sweet sauce and chilli sauce are heaven enough! When preparing this dish, make sure to use the freshest prawns (shrimps) and squid to ensure the tastiest results. Prawns (shrimps) 350 g (12 oz) 150 g (5 oz) 20 g (⅔ oz), finely diced from 1 egg Ice-cold water 90 ml (3 fl oz) 1 Tbsp Potato starch 2 tsp Ground white pepper ½ tsp ½ tsp (fried crullers) 2 2Ta. p iTooc ac lsetaanr cshq uaisd ,n peueldl eodut tentacles and head and Cookaciunntdg o moffi olh ufeotahr dpd aberteeslp,o -wsfary vtiihnnegg eCoyonenlysd. i tmDhiees cntatesrnd t Cahhceillealisd .s Paeuecel 3. sCkoianr soeflfy b doidcey tpurbawe na nadn d iscqaurid, falelosnhg, twheitnh mix 4sSh.w e e llwbtpweCeseovlu tahin etamtsih tfrnttanlye boidcpot,iu l hnotecbhr ierso nfaek r slggoa padaf dzrn auiaaewnsdtcwn n s eaafdi pnod tns taer etfod tairr f, eun ftdst.ersudaariezbcys le et.ste.ieq n.fw P uo R1lisriadi.nt n co 3e semc0 e, kP i ipsnmxes,otq euiatiunlafr ieutrpddoet r eew satsessuwti iabtaruhneleran csd beth.a) ilgl,.ne( gFfdSirrleimteze prawpnesp paelor nagn dth seuirgar in a blender or food processor. 5b.a c kcBfSsiocnl ehraeanen pddsde i vcu repen amtapislnat oemdsv t eeisnx .tttiuorh r rieaen atbodeo -tcwlhiokelme. pCebuaslsta tacpe ko.s mriWkn otifetoahstth iin,netos. vReirnyse prawwnest whaenll dasn, dsc poaotp durpy. the paste and throw it back 6. iSnetpoa trhaete b yoowul tioa oco imntpoa hcat livte. sR espoe yaot ut hgiset 4 sticks. M20a–k2e5 at imlenegs tuhnwtils ep asslitte dfoewelns dtheen sme idadnlde sticky. of each stick. Dust the inside of the slit with a





72 Wonton Soup Serves 4CHINESE HERITAGE A Cantonese classic. The shape of the uncooked dumplings ausp old Chinese gold ingots, plump bellies surrounded by a high ri yellow or white wonton skins for these, depending on your pr taste faintly alkaline but are more resilient than white skins. Prawns (shrimps) 180 g (6½ oz) Coarsely minced pork with some fat 150 g (5 oz) Oyster sauce ¾ tsp Sesame oil ¼ tsp Salt to taste Ground white pepper to taste Wonton skins 24–30 sheets Light chicken, pork or seafood stock (page 33) 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) Choy sum (Chinese flowering cabbage) 21.8 0 Cgo m(6b½in eo zp)r,a wanssh wedit ha nmdi nsceepda rpaoterkd, ionytoster sauce, singslee ssatmalkes oGili,n sgaeltr a2n5d gp e(4p/p5e r.o zS)t,ir pweietlhed and thinly 3sl.i c e ccsPdokhlaivoncep.e rs Detaidacb,bk os fuoe utrd ng13te 0itls s wmpo efifn ilsllul kibtnienlges .nwindi tethdh .ea L ceet nmtrear ionfa ate w, onton Garldica m1 pcelonveed, fpineegleerdti pa, ntdh esnli cfeodld skin in half Sprinsdegiaa glo.o nBniorailnnlygs, (tehsnceca lltolwisoionn gss) hf a2ilrl,i pnceghr.o ePpdrpegesedss e1od.f g te hPse e tetorliangle 4p.r a w tConogsme atbhnineder , r eroesvseeerrvrlvaeep d ht ehpaerdamsw sanln ighdhe taslhdye sa llansn.d dS lsith eplrlasw , ns alonpsitgnotr o ettachshk seeb ,i torgom iil bn.is adgeLcdoeaklwlres. aeTaonrhnf di hdst eh gwraeaet irm lwllai cnomo vdinnae t kosaienm .pt mhoMete a arkf niefllod inar bgl1lr 5ibn ugmncinhu uteps, 5th. r e awtBhdroei-nnlnigkt o seatn r sbap liolaniktc ebko wrfoi nitfsthre .sinthitn owe sa. t ceRlrei natsone a pp osrta ewaannddsy , wgenll tlaend pat sfhdoieormryat . s1m ooD½veniec–r .e2rw A mipmtdhredai nd wswuiauntloemts ns a-,tw nlooudinwtn hstp iihlean ept hcapbelteae.ytrac vfthloeoe ras,ta ta suntepd. acKnoedoe kpb osbtock 6th. e naB bluaosnuect h.r e Acphse otayht esdyu machr eoin pd ptohineeg ,s malimfot ettih obenomsi l itnogu m tw winaictteehr tuhnetmil

Wonton Soup Serves 4 A Cantonese classic. The shape of the uncooked dumplings auspiciously echoes that of old Chinese gold ingots, plump bellies surrounded by a high rim. You can use either yellow or white wonton skins for these, depending on your preference. Yellow skins taste faintly alkaline but are more resilient than white skins. Prawns (shrimps) 180 g (6½ oz) Coarsely minced pork with some fat 150 g (5 oz) Oyster sauce ¾ tsp Sesame oil ¼ tsp to taste Ground white pepper to taste Wonton skins 24–30 sheets Light chicken, pork or seafood stock 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) Choy sum (Chinese flowering cabbage) 21.8 0 Cgo m(6b½in eo zp)r,a wanssh wedit ha nmdi nsceepda rpaoterkd, ionytoster sauce, singslee ssatmalkes oGili,n sgaeltr a2n5d gp e(4p/p5e r.o zS)t,ir pweietlhed and thinly 3. cPhlaocpes taicbkosu ut n1t itl swp efillll ibnlge nind etdh.e L ceet nmtrear ionfa ate w, onton csokivne. rDeda,b foerd g3e0s mofin suktiens .with a da m1 pcelonveed, fpineegleerdti pa, ntdh esnli cfeodld skin in half Sprinsdegiaa glo.o nBniorailnnlygs, (tehsnceca lltolwisoionn gss) hf a2ilrl,i pnceghr.o ePpdrpegesedss e1od.f g te hPse e tetorliangle 4p.r a w tConogsme atbhnineder , r eroesvseeerrvrlvaeep d ht ehpaerdamsw sanln ighdhe taslhdye sa llansn.d dS lsith eplrlasw , ns alonsptignotr o ettachshk seeb ,i torgom iil bn.is adgeLcdoeaklwlres. aeTaonrhnf di hdst eh gwraeaet irm lwllai cnomo vdinnae t kosaienm .pt mhoMete a arkf niefllod inar bgl1lr 5ibn ugmncinhu uteps, 5th. r e atwBhdroei-nnlnigkt o seatn r sbap liolaniktc ebko wrfoi nitfsthre .sinthitn owe sa. t ceRlrei natsone a pp osrta ewaannddsy , wgenll tlaend pat shfdoieormryat . s1m ooD½veniec–r .e2rw A mipmtdhredai nd wswuiauntloemts ns a-,tw nlooudinwtn hstp iihlean ept hcapbelteae.ytrac vfthloeoe ras,ta ta suntepd. acKnoedoe kpb osbtock 6th. e naB bluaosnuect h.r e Acphse otayht esdyu machr eoin pd ptohineeg ,s malimfot ettih obenomsi l itnogu m tw winaictteehr tuhnetmil





74 Winter Melon CHINESE HERITAGESoup Serves 4–5 Aromatics like garlic and spring onion (scallion) are not used in gentle, mellow flavours of the stock and melon to shine throug obtain Chinese dry-cured ham, which can be tricky to find some ham or Italian parma ham make acceptable substitutes. Pork ribs 300 g (11 oz) Chicken carcass bones 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Chinese ham 75 g (2⅔ oz), cut into slivers Water 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) Ginger 1 thin slice Winter melon 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), skinned, deseeded and cut into 3-cm (1-in) cubes Salt to taste Ground white pepper to taste 1. Blanch pork ribs and chicken bones in boiling water for 30 seconds, 2th. e nC odmrabinin we erilbl.s, bones, ham and 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) fresh water in a clean pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover, 3. lSetaraviinn gs tloidc ks liingthot lay caljeaar.n L opwote. rI fh deeast iraendd, you can spiimckm oeurt gtheen tplyo rfko rr i1b½s ahnodu rhsa, moc cpaiesicoensa tloly sekirmvem winigth o tfhf ea nsyo ufpo.a Bmr inthga st tfoocrkm tso. a boil over medium heat and add ginger and winter 4. mLifet lomne clounb epsi.e cLeosw oeur th oefa ts oaunpd wsiimthm ae rs,l ohtatelfd- scopvoeorne,d r,e omvoevr elo twhe hire sakt info, rt h4e0n– 4r5e tmurinn uflteessh, 5. toSoer asusonoutnipl .smoeulpo nw pitihe cseasl t aaren dt rpaenpslpuecre. nSte arvned hot. meltingly tender. NOTE • Cooking the melon pieces with their skin on prevents their fragile flesh from falling apart.

Winter Melon Soup Serves 4–5 Aromatics like garlic and spring onion (scallion) are not used in this soup, to allow the gentle, mellow flavours of the stock and melon to shine through. If you are unable to obtain Chinese dry-cured ham, which can be tricky to find sometimes, Spanish serrano ham or Italian parma ham make acceptable substitutes. 300 g (11 oz) Chicken carcass bones 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Chinese ham 75 g (2⅔ oz), cut into slivers 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) 1 thin slice Winter melon 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), skinned, deseeded and cut into 3-cm (1-in) cubes Salt to Ground white pepper to taste 1. Blanch pork ribs and chicken bones in boiling water for 30 seconds, 2th. e nC odmrabinin we erilbl.s, bones, ham and 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) fresh water in a clean pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover, 3. lSetaraviinn gs tloidc ks liingthot lay caljeaar.n L opwote. rI fh deeast iraendd, you can psiimckm oeurt gtheen tplyo rfko rr i1b½s ahnodu rhsa, moc cpaiesicoensa tloly sekirmvem winigth o tfhf ea nsyo ufpo.a Bmr inthga st tfoocrkm tso. a boil over medium heat and add ginger and winter 4. mLifet lomne clounb epsi.e cLeosw oeur th oefa ts oaunpd wsiimthm ae rs,l ohtatelfd- csopvoeorne,d r,e omvoevr elo twhe hire sakt info, rt h4e0n– 4r5e tmurinn uflteessh, 5. otSoer asusonoutnipl .smoeulpo nw pitihe cseasl t aaren dt rpaenpslpuecre. nSte arvned hot. meltingly tender. • Cooking the melon pieces with their skin on prevents their fragile flesh from falling apart.





HAINANESE DISHES



Chicken HainaneseRice 78 HCahinicakneense HaCSCiunMohraurouynpptH et Ps8ao8s o2ine68nrk4anBeuseaYhi Kaya 9920

78 Chicken Rice Serves 4–6CHINESE HERITAGE Back on Hainan Island, a local breed of fowl called wen chang dish. Hainanese cooks favour hens of a certain age: not so yo bland, but not so old and tired from egg-laying that their mea meat should have a slight resilience to it and both meat and Kampong chickens and capons both work well. Chicken 1, large, about 1.4–1.6 kg (3 lb 1⅔ oz–3 lb 9 oz), cleaned Water 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) Ginger 2 thick slices Garlic 2 cloves, peeled and left whole Sesame oil 1 Tbsp Rice Long-grain rice 600 g (1 lb 5ⅱ oz), washed until water runs clear and drained Garlic 8 cloves, peeled and minced Old ginger 35 g (1¼ oz), peeled and minced Shallots 5, peeled and minced Pandan leaves 2, washed and tied into a knot Salt ½ tsp Chilli Sauce Large red chillies 8 Red bird’s eye chillies to taste Garlic 4 cloves, peeled and chopped Young ginger 25 g (⅘ oz), peeled and chopped Sugar to taste Salt to taste Freshly-squeezed calamansi lime juice 1 Tbsp Ginger Sauce Old ginger 100 g (3½ oz), peeled and chopped Cooking oil 1 Tbsp Water 2 tsp Sesame oil ½ tsp

Chicken Rice Serves Back on Hainan Island, a local breed of fowl called wen chang chicken is used for this dish. Hainanese cooks favour hens of a certain age: not so young that their flesh is bland, but not so old and tired from egg-laying that their meat is tough. Ideally, the meat should have a slight resilience to it and both meat and fat must be flavourful. Kampong chickens and capons both work well. 1, large, about 1.4–1.6 kg ⅔ oz–3 lb 9 oz), cleaned Water 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) 2 thick slices 2 cloves, peeled and left whole Sesame oil 1 Tbsp Rice Long-grain rice 600 g (1 oz), washed until water runs clear and drained Garlic 8 cloves, peeled and minced Old ginger 35 g (1¼ oz), peeled and minced 5, peeled and minced Pandan leaves 2, washed and tied into a knot ½ tsp Chilli Sauce Large red chillies 8 Red bird’s eye chillies to taste 4 cloves, peeled and chopped Young ginger ⅘ oz), peeled and chopped Sugar to taste to taste Freshly-squeezed calamansi lime juice 1 Tbsp Ginger Sauce Old ginger 100 g (3½ oz), peeled chopped Cooking oil 1 Tbsp 2 tsp Sesame oil ½ tsp

79 1. Cut off excess skin and fat from chicken and 2. rBersinegrv we athteers, eg.inger and garlic to a rolling boil in a deep pot. Gently submerge chicken in water. Bring to a vigorous simmer and cook, partially covered, for 12 minutes. Cover tightly, turn off the heat and 3. lPerte pstaarned r iucen.d iSspturerbaedd w faosrhed rice out on a tray 4. 2aFin0nd–e2 ll5ye tcm hstionapun tdree sus.en Rrtviele mddro ycv.hei cckheinck feant afrnodm s kthine; hot scotomckb.i nReu bw sitkhin 2 a Tllb ospv ewr awteitrh in a nseosna-mstiec ko ipl aann da nsde tc oaosikd eo.ver medium-low heat for 10–15 minutes until fat has rendered. Strain fat and make up to 100 ml (3½ fl oz) with cooking oil, if 5. nTreacnessfsear ryri.c Hee taot ac hpicokte, na dfdat pinan ad awno lke aovveesr, msaeltdium hanedat .7 0W0h menl h(2o3t⅓, a dfld o gza) rclihci,cken sotlodc gk.in Bgreinr ga ntod as hbaolliol,t sth aennd tfurryn fhoer a1t– 2to mloinwu, tceosv, er utingthilt lyso aftnedn eledt acnodo kf rfaogrrant. 6. 1ACo5dm dm briiincneue t aeansl ld ui nstgtiirrl- efrdricyie f noitsrs oafnoblroy uc jthu i2sllt i mtseainnuudcteer .si n Tu uanrnti loff hbglreeaanitnd sae ntru dar nnle dtt rparnoostc luestcsaesn nudtn., tcilo vfienree.d, 7. AfBodlred n1 d25 –a32l 0l T ibnmsgpirne uhdtoieets n cthsoi cfckooerm ng pisnltegotecekr csaoanoudkc iebn lgwe.nitdh u1n tTibl sp 8. hsToaou ts cesetr ovicse k,a ft lobu rfaifg hcfiotn oeok repadan sgrteiec..e with chopsticks; adjust salt to your taste. Chop chicken into serving pieces and serve with rice, sauces and garnishes. Serve any NOTreEmaining hot stock as soup, sprinkled with •c hThoep fipnieshde ds pchriicnkegn oshnoiuoldn h. ave fully cooked, tender flesh, but may not be cooked through within its bones. If this is a concern for you, simmer it for 15–16 minutes rather than 12 minutes in step 2.

. Cut off excess skin and fat from chicken and . rBersinegrv we athteers, eg.inger and garlic to a rolling boil in a deep pot. Gently submerge chicken in water. Bring to a vigorous simmer and cook, partially covered, for 12 minutes. Cover tightly, turn off the heat and . lPerte pstaarned r iucen.d iSspturerbaedd w faosrhed rice out on a tray . 2aFin0nd–e2 ll5ye tcm hstionapun tdree sus.en Rrtviele mddro ycv.hei cckheinck feant afrnodm s kthine; hot scotomckb.i nReu bw sitkhin 2 a Tllb ospv ewr awteitrh in a nseosna-mstiec ko ipl aann da nsde tc oaosikd eo.ver medium-low heat for 10–15 minutes until fat has rendered. Strain fat and make up to 100 ml (3½ fl oz) with cooking oil, if . nTreacnessfsear ryri.c Hee taot ac hpicokte, na dfdat pinan ad awno lke aovveesr, msaeltdium hanedat .7 0W0h menl h(2o3t⅓, a dfld o gza) rclihci,cken ostlodc gki.n Bgreinr ga ntod as hbaolliol,t sth aennd tfurryn fhoer a1t– 2to mloinwu, tceosv, er utingthilt lyso aftnedn eledt acnodo kf rfaogrrant. . A1Co5dm dm briiincneue t aeansl ld ui nstgtiirrl- efrdricyie f noitsrs oafnoblroy uc jthu i2sllt i mtseainnuudcteer .si n Tu uanrnti loff bghlreeaanitnd sae ntru dar nnle dtt rparnoostc luestcsaesn nudtn., tcilo vfienree.d, . fABodlred n1 d25 –a32l 0l T ibnmsgpirne uhdtoieets n cthsoi cfckooerm ng pisnltegotecekr csaoanoudkc iebn lgwe.nitdh u1n tTibl sp . shToaou ts cesetr ovicse k,a ft lobu rfaifg hcfiotn oeok repadan sgrteiec..e with chopsticks; adjust salt to your taste. Chop chicken into serving pieces and serve with rice, sauces and garnishes. Serve any remaining hot stock as soup, sprinkled with •c hThoep fipnieshde ds pchriicnkegn oshnoiuoldn h. ave fully cooked, tender flesh, but may not be cooked through within its bones. If this is a concern for you, simmer it for 15–16 minutes rather than 12 minutes in step 2.