Chinese heritage cooking

164 YU SHENGCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 5–6 In the 1960s, respected Singaporean chefs Tham Yui Kai, Sin and Hooi Kok Wai were known affectionately as the Four He to create a special Chinese New Year dish, the four chefs to salad common to both Cantonese and Teochew traditions i eaten particularly on the seventh day of the Chinese New Y intentionally symbolic and colourful ingredients, a sweet- communal way of presenting, tossing and enjoying the sal which has in the years since been further transformed a luxurious, not to say over the top, showpiece by posh re Shaaurkceen sF rebsahck r etod tphluem less 2s , ghlaamlveodro uasn db upti ttsetidll “Heavenly” versio Water 5 Tbsp Honey 1½ Tbsp Lemon juice or rice vinegar 1 Tbsp Sugar ½ Tbsp Salt ¼ tsp Fresh Vegetables Carrot 130 g (4½ oz) White daikon radish 130 g (4½ oz) Pink pomelo flesh 75 g (2⅔ oz), flaked apart into sacs Spring onions (scallions) 2 Kaffir lime leaves 3 Red chilli 1, deseeded Seafood Wolf herring (ikan parang) fillet 150 g (5⅓ oz) Salt 1 tsp Prepared jellyfish 60 g (2¼ oz) Preserved Items

SHENG In the 1960s, respected Singaporean chefs Tham Yui Kai, Sin Leong, Lau Yoke Pui and Hooi Kok Wai were known affectionately as the Four Heavenly Kings. Wanting to create a special Chinese New Year dish, the four chefs took a simple raw fish salad common to both Cantonese and Teochew traditions in coastal Guangdong, eaten particularly on the seventh day of the Chinese New Year: they added to it intentionally symbolic and colourful ingredients, a sweet-tangy sauce, and a communal way of presenting, tossing and enjoying the salad. This is yu sheng, which has in the years since been further transformed and elaborated into a luxurious, not to say over the top, showpiece by posh restaurants. This recipe harkensF rebsahck r etod tphluem less 2s , ghlaamlveodro uasn db upti ttsetidll “Heavenly” version. 5 Tbsp 1½ Tbsp Lemon juice or rice vinegar 1 Tbsp Sugar ½ Tbsp ¼ tsp Fresh Vegetables Carrot 130 g (4½ oz) White daikon radish 130 g (4½ oz) Pink pomelo 75 g (2⅔ oz), flaked apart into sacs Spring onions (scallions) 2 Kaffir lime leaves 3 1, deseeded Seafood Wolf herring (ikan ) fillet 150 g Salt 1 tsp Prepared jellyfish 60 g (2¼ oz) Preserved Items

165 1. Prepare sauce. Place ingredients for sauce in a blender and process until smooth. Scrape mixture into a small pot. Cover and bring 2. tPor eap abroei l forevsehr vloewge htaebalte, st.h Peene lo cwaerrrot and daikon. hCueta tb oanthd isnitmo mloenrg f,o trh 5in mjuilnieuntense. Strain sauce into wa ibtho wal .m Leant dcooloinl ec oomr pjuleliteenlyn.e cutter. Soak julienne in cold water for 20 minutes to make them crisp and juicy. Just before serving, drain them and dry them very well 3. iPnr eap asarela sde sapfoinonde. rR ourb wfiisthh wcleitahn s taelta atnodw elelst . sStalinced, lsoporisnegly o cnoiovenrse odn, fao rs h15ar pm diniaugteosn.al iRnitnos es hfoisrht lwenegll,t hpsa. tR dermy,o wvera tph iicnk pvleasintisc fwrormap ,l imaned flereaevzees faonrd 3 c0u mt lienauvteess itnot ofi rhma iru-pfine 4. vtrsfpPehlheeordierrsnteyu ph ud cla.to nesrhUn estiwin ng lt cw ihaotpshe rhnilae irdgafpecii hes mdsahtssh ne.'.h sadn( arSi tpnzsslei .tlcik e ciHnfnreoenig fraafe mitlt.s h hpsfSii nenlaaialcebycen rob ouvcosthe snoi leitlitilhs. eiinnin t gtoaor a vstimeninr ayyin,llto eTudrinb leo fffr ahgemate anntsd. )l eFta nit ocouot lf icsohm splicleetsely. Pour oil 5. oiAnnst soae ams mbolaewl l ylp.u lH asathelve. enR gicn.a sMleam ojueanlnlydsf iic slahimr raoents d.a npda td dariyk.on jPulaliecen ncein inna mthoen c eantdr ew ohfi tae vpeerpyp lear gine paper eplnavtetelor.p Aersr.ange the other fresh items, jellyfish, preserved items and crisp items in 6. sTeop saerravte ysmu ashll emngo,u snqduse aerzoeu ncadl atmhea njuslii elinmnes. Polvaecre fsiasuhc. eR,e fmisho,v eo il,i mcien nsaemedosn ,a npde pmpeixr 7. faSinpshdri nwckaleelal lm cwinainnthas im lilmiomnee asjun idnc e wt,h thehiitere ns pepeplpacrpaeet ref i asdhlli s oshlveiceser so non tmohpeai nota fp bcllaeatr.treort. aDnridz zdlea iksaounc jeu l(ieyonun ed.on’t 8. hGaivvee atoll tuhse dailnl eorfs itl)o nagn dc hooilp astlilc oksv.e Lr emt aeivne rpylaotnter. stand up and toss the yu sheng ingredients together, lifting them high above the 9. dTriashd,i tiuonntaill ley,v edriyntehrisn gin tiso nwee wll imshiexse dfo. r the new Eyveeary aosn eth teh einng rseedrvieenst sth aerme saedldvesd a portion on a samnda ltlo pslsaetde. These may include: lo hei (stirring up luck), nian nian you yu (abundance every year), da ji da li (prosperity and good fortune), bu bu gao sheng (rising success), feng sheng shui qi (luck overflowing), jin yin man wu (gold and silver fill

1. Prepare sauce. Place ingredients for sauce in a blender and process until smooth. Scrape mixture into a small pot. Cover and bring 2. tPor eap abroei l forevsehr vloewge htaebalte, st.h Peene lo cwaerrrot and daikon. hCueta tb oanthd isnitmo mloenrg f,o trh 5in mjuilnieuntense. Strain sauce into wa ibtho wal .m Leant dcooloinl ec oomr pjuleliteenlyn.e cutter. Soak julienne in cold water for 20 minutes to make them crisp and juicy. Just before serving, drain them and dry them very well 3. iPnr eap asarela sde sapfoinonde. rR ourb wfiisthh wcleitahn s taelta atnodw elelst . sStalinced, sloporisnegly o cnoiovenrse odn, fao rs h1a5r pm diniaugteosn.al iRnitnos es hfoisrht lwenegll,t hpsa. tR dermy,o wvera tph iicnk pvleasintisc fwrormap ,l imaned lfereaevzees faonrd 3 c0u mt lienauvteess itnot ofi rhma iru-pfine 4. strvfpPehlheeordierrsnteyu ph ud cla.to nesrhUn estiwin ng lt cw ihaotpshe rhnilae irdgafpecii hes mdsahtssh ne.'.h sadn( arSi tpnzsslei .tlcik e ciHnfnreoenig fraafe mitlt.s h hpsfSii nenlaaialcebycen rob ouvcosthe snoi leitlitilhs. eiinnin t gtoaor a vstimeninr ayyin,llto eTudrinb leo fffr ahgemate anntsd. )l eFta nit ocouot lf icsohm splicleetsely. Pour oil 5. oiAnnst soae ams mbolaewl l ylp.u lH asathelve. enR gicn.a sMleam ojueanlnlydsf iic slahimr raoents d.a npda td dariyk.on Pjulaliecen ncein inna mthoen c eantdr ew ohfi tae vpeerpyp lear gine paper eplnavtetelor.p Aersr.ange the other fresh items, jellyfish, preserved items and crisp items in 6. sTeop saerravte ysmu ashll emngo,u snqduse aerzoeu ncadl atmhea njuslii elinmnes. Polvaecre sfiasuhc. eR,e fmisho,v eo il,i mcien nsaemedosn ,a npde pmpeixr 7. afSinpshdri nwckaleelal lm cwinainnthas im lilmiomnee asjun idnc e wt,h thehiitere ns pepeplpacrpaeet ref i asdhlli s oshlveiceser so non tmohpeai nota fp bcllaeatr.treort. aDnridz zdlea iksaounc jeu l(ieyonun ed.on’t 8. hGaivvee atoll tuhse dailnl eorfs itl)o nagn dc hooilp astlilc oksv.e Lr emt aeivne rpylaotnter. stand up and toss the yu sheng ingredients together, lifting them high above the 9. dTriashd,i tiuonntaill ley,v edriyntehrisn gin tiso nwee wll imshiexse dfo. r the new Eyveeary aosn eth teh einng rseedrvieenst sth aerme saedldvesd a portion on a asmnda ltlo pslsaetde. These may include: lo hei (stirring up luck), nian nian you yu (abundance every year), da ji da li (prosperity and good fortune), bu bu gao sheng (rising success), feng sheng shui qi (luck overflowing), jin yin man wu (gold and silver fill

166 chinese heritage NOTE • Wolf herring is the classic favourite fish for this dish as it has firm and sweet flesh, though it does have a lot of bones. These days, both families and restaurants more often use sashimi-grade fish, especially salmon; however • Itnh teh tea sruten -oufp t htoe Crehsinuletsineg N yeuw s hYeenagr, swuiplle brme qaurkiteet sd aifnfedr ednryt, g aoso sdwseet sahnodp fsa tatlyl- sflteoschke idte smalsm lioken cisr ilsepsys doof uag cho nfltarakests taon tdh eth oet hperer sinegrvreedd iienngtrse.dients. • Yu sheng kits collating all the different preserved and crisp items are by now a familiar sight in supermarkets at Chinese New Year. Be aware that they often go overboard with the candied and pickled items, and are • Yhue nshce nhgig ihs meant to be refreshing, with a good balance of sweet, itna rstu, gar. juicy and crisp flavours and textures.





168 CHINESE ROJAK chinese heritage Serves 3–4 A descendant of Indonesian rujak, this sweet-savoury-tang vegetable salad has now become a popular dish sold by Chi over Singapore. Some versions also include jambu (water appl her) in the mixture. For this dish, the roasted peanuts must be best to roast and grind your own, as even slightly rancid pean good rojak. Yu tiao (fried crullers) 2 Fried bean curd puffs (tau pok) 2 Kangkong (water spinach) 8 stalks Green guava or green mango 1, small Torch ginger bud (bunga kantan) 1 Ripe pineapple ½, small, skinned, cored and cut into bite-size pieces Local cucumber 1, small, deseeded and cut into bite-size pieces Yam bean ½, small, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces Roasted unsalted peanuts 150 g (5⅓ oz), coarsely ground Sauce Tamarind pulp 1 Tbsp Black prawn paste (haeko) 3 Tbsp Grated palm sugar (gula melaka) 2–3 Tbsp Salt 1 tsp Freshly- squeezed calamansi lime juice 2 tsp Red chilli 1, deseeded if desired and pounded finely, or 1 tsp dried chilli paste 1. Prepare 2. s aTuocaes.t Kynoeua dti atoa manadri nbde apnu lcpu rwd itphu f1fs1 0in m al t(o3a⅔ste frl ozo)v wena toerr uunndtiel rp au lgprill until lightly 3. d icsBrsliaosnlpvcye.h s S.k naSiptnr gabkinoo tnhligq i unsittdoa. lkbCsiot eimn- sbbiiznoeeil i pnaigell c weostah tweri tfhor 10 inssgecriecsodsnoiedrnss.t, s St ehfote rna ssdiadruaeci.en and rminisxe wweiltlh, then 4. w rPhueisneknl iingngu atwavmaa taoerrri nmtdo alsnitqgouopi d ac. onAoddk cjiunusgtt . flsCeeusath s ioninntotion 5gb- icttome - tsa(i2zse-te. Thipeni e) sclaeeusnc.g eSt htsrsihp. o uolfdf 6b–e7 sowueteert ,petals

CHINESE ROJAK Serves 3–4 A descendant of Indonesian rujak, this sweet-savoury-tangy-pungent fruit and vegetable salad has now become a popular dish sold by Chinese food vendors all over Singapore. Some versions also include jambu (water apple), and cuttlefish (joo ) in the mixture. For this dish, the roasted peanuts must be absolutely fresh. It is best to roast and grind your own, as even slightly rancid peanuts can totally ruin a rojak. (fried crullers) 2 Fried bean curd puffs (tau pok) 2 (water spinach) 8 stalks Green guava or green mango 1, small Torch ginger bud (bunga Ripe pineapple ½, small, skinned, cored and cut into bite-size pieces Local cucumber 1, small, deseeded and cut into bite-size pieces Yam bean ½, small, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces Roasted unsalted peanuts 150 g (5⅓ oz), coarsely ground Sauce Tamarind pulp 1 Tbsp Black prawn paste (haeko) 3 Tbsp Grated palm sugar gula melaka) 2–3 Tbsp Salt 1 tsp Freshly- squeezed calamansi lime juice 2 tsp Red chilli 1, deseeded if desired and pounded finely, or 1 tsp dried chilli paste 1. Prepare sauce. Kynoeua dti atoa manadri nbde apnu lcpu rwd itphu f1fs1 0in m al t(o3a⅔ste frl ozo)v wena toerr uunndtiel rp au lgprill until lightly 3. d icsBrsliaosnlpvcye.h s S.k naSiptnr gabkinoo tnhligq i unsittdoa. lkbCsiot eimn- sbbiiznoeeil i pnaigell c weostah tweri tfhor 10 inssgecriecsodsnoiedrnss.t, s St ehfote rna ssdiadruaeci.en and rminisxe wweiltlh, then 4. w rPhueisneknl iingngu atwavmaa taoerrri nmtdo alsnitqgouopi d ac. onAoddk cjiunusgtt . flsCeeusath s ioninntotion 5gb- icttome - tsa(i2zse-te. Thipeni e) sclaeeusnc.g eSt htsrsihp. o uolfdf 6b–e7 sowueteert ,petals





170 HUAT KUEH chinese heritage Makes 15–18 pieces There are many different recipes for these fluffy steamed cakes, which are served on celebratory occasions and also used as religious offerings. Some variations are leavened with yeast and some with baking powder. Some are made with ground cooked rice, some with rice flour and some with soft wheat flour. This easy recipe uses a blend oRfic ef lfolourusr 1a7n5d g l(e6a¼ve onzin) gB oailgeedn tasn df ocro olae d fiwnea teyret s1u7b5s tmanl t(ia5l⅘ te xflt uorze). HAuctaivt ek uderhie da rey ebaesstt ½e attsepn Chooot kainngd foriels 2h , Tabss pth +e ym boerceo mfoer gstroedasgiyn gw bhoewn lcso lCda.ke flour 90 g (3¼ oz) Double-acting baking powder 1¼ tsp Syrup Brown sugar or palm sugar (gula melaka) 175 g (6¼ oz) Water 150 ml (5 fl oz) Pandan leaves 2, cut into small pieces 1. Combine ingredients for syrup in a small pot, cover and set over medium-low heat. Cook until sugar has fully dissolved and mixture has just reached a simmer. Strain into a bowl, pressing on the solids to extract all the syrup. Let cool completely. 2. Combine rice flour, water and yeast in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Cover and let 3. sSttairn sdy rfoupr 1a nhdo uori l uinnttiol mbaixttteurr eu nist ilf riontchoyr.porated, then sift cake flour over batter and 4. wMheiasnkw ith iinle ,j ubsrti nugn twil astmero toot ha. Cvoigvoerro uasn db oleilt isnt aynodur 5. sfSotiefrt a 2bm0a ekmri.nign upteosw mdeorr eo.ver batter and whisk in quickly until evenly incorporated. Let the batter stand for 10 minutes so the baking powder





172 TANG YUAN chinese heritage Serves 3–4 One of the oldest of all Chinese foods with a symbolic conno traditionally eaten at the winter solstice in late December to ce and togetherness. In modern Singapore, the stuffed version or below) are now commonly enjoyed at group gatherings or as a Glutinous rice flour 200 g (7 oz) + more for dusting hands Boiling water 150 ml (5 fl oz) Cooking oil 2 tsp Food colouring as desired 1. Sift glutinous rice flour into a bowl. Pour boiling water into flour mixture and stir with a spatula until mixture comes together into a crumbly, shaggy dough. Add oil and knead it in with wet hands. If needed, sprinkle 1– 2 Tbsp more water over dough to make it come together. Leave dough in bowl, cover with a clean, damp tea towel and 2. l e tIf ddoeusgirhe ds,t aknnde afdo ra 1f5e wm dinruotpess .of pink , red or green food colouring into dough to tint it a pastel shade. Dust your hands with glutinous rice flour, pinch off a bit of dough and 3. rBorliln igt ian tpoo ta no fe wveante ro tuon da bsiamll mtheer. sGizeen tolyf ad rgorpape. Stahnagp ey ureamn ainin. iTnhge yta wngil ly euxapna lnikde swliigshetly udnurtinl ga llc othoek indgo,u gsoh piso aucshe dt huepm. in batches as necessary to avoid crowding the pot. 4. Toa nsge ryvuea, nd raarien caonodk esdco woph etann tgh eyyu aflno aint ttoo the sinudrfivaicdeu. aSlc soeorpv itnhge mbo woulst awnidth toap s lwotitehd one of tshpeo ofno llaonwdi ntgra nsosfueprs t.hem to a bowl of fresh cool NOTwEater. • Using 100 per cent glutinous rice flour makes the stickiest, chewiest tang yuan. If you prefer a slightly softer texture, you can use the dough from the recipe for yi buah (page 90) to make • Ttoa nmga ykuea anh. boh leng, the Teochew version of tang yuan, use the

TANG YUAN Serves 3–4 One of the oldest of all Chinese foods with a symbolic connotation, tang yuan are traditionally eaten at the winter solstice in late December to celebrate family reunion and togetherness. In modern Singapore, the stuffed version or ah boh leng (see Note below) are now commonly enjoyed at group gatherings or as a sweet anytime snack. Glutinous rice flour 200 g (7 oz) + more for dusting hands Boiling water 150 ml (5 fl Cooking oil 2 tsp Food colouring as desired 1. Sift glutinous rice flour into a bowl. Pour boiling water into flour mixture and stir with a spatula until mixture comes together into a crumbly, shaggy dough. Add oil and knead it in with wet hands. If needed, sprinkle 1– 2 Tbsp more water over dough to make it come together. Leave dough in bowl, cover with a clean, damp tea towel and 2. l e tIf ddoeusgirhe ds,t aknnde afdo ra 1f5e wm dinruotpess .of pink , red or green food colouring into dough to tint it a pastel shade. Dust your hands with glutinous rice flour, pinch off a bit of dough and 3. rBorliln igt ian tpoo ta no fe wveante ro tuon da bsiamll mtheer. sGizeen tolyf ad rgorpape. tSahnagp ey ureamn ainin. iTnhge yta wngil ly euxapna lnikde swliigshetly dunurtinl ga llc othoek indgo,u gsoh piso aucshe dt huepm. in batches as necessary to avoid crowding the pot. 4. Toa nsge ryvuea, nd raarien caonodk esdco woph etann tgh eyyu aflno aint ttoo the sinudrfivaicdeu. aSlc soeorpv itnhge mbo woulst awnidth toap s lwotitehd one of sthpeo ofno llaonwdi ntgra nsosfueprs t.hem to a bowl of fresh cool • Using 100 per cent glutinous rice flour makes the stickiest, chewiest tang yuan. If you prefer a slightly softer texture, you can use the dough from the recipe for yi page 90) to make • Ttoa nmga ykuea anh. boh leng, the Teochew version of tang yuan, use the

173 PANDAN SOUP Pandan leaves 12, cut into short lengths Water 1.5 litres (46 fl oz / 6 cups) water White rock sugar 60 g (2¼ oz), crushed 1. Combine pandan leaves, water and rock sugar in a pot. Cover and bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes. Strain and adjust sweetness to taste. GINGER SOUP Old ginger 75 g (2⅔ oz) Water 1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) Yellow rock sugar or Chinese brown sugar 60 g (2¼ oz), crushed 1. Peel, then thoroughly bruise ginger and coarsely chop. Combine with water and sugar in a pot. Cover and bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes. Strain and adjust sweetness to taste. PEANUT SOUP Skinned raw peanuts 175 g (6¼ oz) Water 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups)

PANDAN SOUP Pandan leaves 12, cut into short lengths Water 1.5 litres (46 fl oz / 6 cups) water White rock sugar 60 g (2¼ oz), crushed 1. Combine pandan leaves, water and rock sugar in a pot. Cover and bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes. Strain and adjust sweetness to taste. GINGER SOUP Old ginger 75 g (2⅔ oz) Water 1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) Yellow rock sugar or Chinese brown sugar 60 g (2¼ oz), crushed 1. Peel, then thoroughly bruise ginger and coarsely chop. Combine with water and sugar in a pot. Cover and bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes. Strain and adjust sweetness to taste. PEANUT SOUP Skinned raw peanuts 175 g (6¼ oz) Water 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups)











178 BEAN CThUeRrDe are CHINESE HERITAGE many kinds of bean curd or tofu used in the Chinese kitchen. Smooth, delicate silken bean curd may be eaten cold or hot. Firm bean curd (tau kwa (top, left) is coarser, and pressed to yield an almost crumbly texture. These two are the plain ‘all- purpose’ bean curd used for stir- fries, soups, braises and so on, and should be used as

SE HERITAGE BEAN CThUeRrDe are many kinds of bean curd or tofu used in the Chinese kitchen. Smooth, delicate silken bean curd may be eaten cold or hot. Firm bean curd (tau kwa) (top, left) is coarser, and pressed to yield an almost crumbly texture. These two are the plain ‘all- purpose’ bean curd used for stir- fries, soups, braises and so on, and should be used as

179 GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS CHINESE HAM, SALTED, AIR-DRIED, UNSMOKED Chinese ham is sold in slabs at dry goods stores. Those from Yunnan and Jinhua are said to be the best. This is used to flavour master stocks and can be sliced and steamed or braised to enjoy on its own. As an artisanal product, it can be erratically available — the closest substitutes are Spanish serrano ham or Italian prosciutto.

RY OF INGREDIENTS CHINESE HAM, SALTED, CHINESE AIR-DRIED, UNSMOKED SKnAoUwSAn GinES Chinese ham is sold in slabs Cantonese at as lup dry goods stores. Those from cheong, Yunnan and Jinhua are said these to be highly the best. This is used to aromatic, flavour chewy- master stocks and can be textured sliced sausages and steamed or braised to come in a enjoy few on its own. As an artisanal different product, versions, it can be erratically available made with — finely or the closest substitutes are coarsely Spanish minced serrano ham or Italian pork and prosciutto. pork fat, liver, Chinese

180 CHINESE HERITAGE DRIED SEAFOOD Dried seafoods are used in southern Chinese cooking for the savoury depth of flavour they add to dishes. The most common include: dried prawns (shrimps) (above, right); dried salted threadfin; dried and cured fish such as anchovies, sole, croaker and such; dried shellfish such as oysters, mussels and clams; dried cuttlefish (above, left), squid, octopus and jellyfish; and premium items such as abalone, scallops, fish maw, shark’s fin and sea cucumber. Each item typically comes in several different grades based on size and quality. Besides their treasured flavours and textures, most of these seafoods have spproepceifricties in traditional Chinese medicine—for eGAxlAasmoLA pkNnleoG, wAdLnri eads lam octopus boosts keong energy in tonic soups, and fish maw improves thoer bcloume pglienxgieorn, .

E HERITAGE DRIED SEAFOOD FISH Dried seafoods are used in southern Chinese cooking for the savoury TABhANeLDsLeS are mFISaHdCeAKES flavour they add to dishes. The most common include: dried prawns from white fish (above, right); dried salted threadfin; dried and cured fish such as meat, sometimes sole, croaker and such; dried shellfish such as oysters, mussels and blended with dried cuttlefish (above, left), squid, octopus and jellyfish; and cuttlefish premium items or such as abalone, scallops, fish maw, shark’s fin and sea cucumber. prawns (shrimps), typically comes in several different grades based on size and quality. ground to a paste their treasured flavours and textures, most of these seafoods have with salt and flour, properties in traditional Chinese medicine—for eGAxlAasmoLA pkNnleoG, wAdLnri eads lam then octopus boosts seasoned keong and energy in tonic soups, and fish maw improves thoer bcloume pglienxgieorn, . moulded

181 GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS LOTUS SEEDS NOODLES, RICE These oval-shaped seeds come Fresh rice noodles made from lotus-flower pods. Sold dried from soaked or precooked and then canned or and ground rice include laksa vacuum-packed, they are used in noodles both sweet and savoury dishes. (round rice noodles) (right), They have a starchy, firm texture kway and delicate flavour reminiscent teow (broad rice noodles) of both peas and lotus root. Dried (left), hor lotus seeds must be soaked and fun (flat noodle sheets), bee peeled before use and any internal hoon sprouts must be removed, as they (fine vermicelli), and bee tai are bitter. mak (mouse-tail noodles) which are short and thick. Dried rice noodles include broad rice noodles and vermicelli of varying widths and thicknesses. Chinese noodle dishes typically employ a specific texture of

RY OF INGREDIENTS LOTUS SEEDS NOODLES, RICE NOODLES, These oval-shaped seeds come Fresh rice noodles made WChHinEeAsTe from lotus-flower pods. Sold dried from soaked wheat or precooked and then canned or and ground rice include laksa noodles vacuum-packed, they are used in noodles may be both sweet and savoury dishes. (round rice noodles) (right), round They have a starchy, firm texture kway or flat, and delicate flavour reminiscent teow (broad rice noodles) thin or of both peas and lotus root. Dried (left), hor thick, and lotus seeds must be soaked and fun (flat noodle sheets), bee plain peeled before use and any internal hoon white sprouts must be removed, as they (fine vermicelli), and bee tai or tinted mak yellow (mouse-tail noodles) which with are short alkaline and thick. Dried rice noodles water include and/or broad rice noodles and eggs. vermicelli They of varying widths and include thicknesses. mee pok Chinese noodle dishes (flat typically noodles) employ a specific texture of (left),

182 CHINESE HERITAGE PRESERVED MUSTARD CAAlsBo BkAnGowE n as mui choy, preserved mustard greens are made from a different and leafier variety of mustard greens than that used for salted vegetable (kiam chye). This comes in varieties cured with salt alone or salt plus sugar. Leathery and tough, they must be well soaked and slow-cooked to bring out their flavour. RED YEAST RICE RICE WINE Made by inoculating rice with Chinese rice wines vary in monascus moulds which turn the hue from

E HERITAGE PRESERVED MUSTARD RED CAAlsBo BkAnGowE n as mui choy, DThAeTsEeS small, preserved wrinkly, brick-red mustard greens are made jujubes are from a typically sold pitted different and leafier variety and dried. They have of mustard a powerful greens than that used for sweetness and salted somewhat assertive vegetable (kiam chye). This fruity, musty comes in aroma. They are varieties cured with salt mSAoLsTtElyD uAVsElseGodE TinABLE alone or salt kCnhoinwense as plus sugar. Leathery and tough, they must be well soaked and slow-cooked to bring out their flavour. RED YEAST RICE RICE WINE Made by inoculating rice with Chinese rice wines vary in monascus moulds which turn the hue from

183 SEAFOOD CAO fNewDIMENTS GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS condiments SESAME OIL Extracted from sesame seeds, its based on flavour varies depending on the seed cured seafood are indigenous to Southern China’s coastal regions. Oyster sauce, made of seasoned reduced oyster juice, has the most global recognition; there are similar variations made from abalone. Salted prawn (shrimp) sauce ( cheong SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS (top), is a Widely used in both freshwet lavender- and dried

SEAFOOD CAO fNewDIMENTS condiments Y OF INGREDIENTS based on tracted from sesame seeds, its cured avour varies depending on the seed seafood are indigenous to Southern China’s coastal regions. Oyster sauce, made of seasoned reduced oyster juice, has the most global recognition; there are similar variations made from abalone. Salted prawn (shrimp) sauce (har cheong) SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS (top), is a SICHUAN Widely used in both freshwet TPhEePsPeE rReCdO-RNS lavender- brown and dried

184 CHINESE HERITAGE SOY SAUCE, DARK SOY SAUCE, LIGHT There are a few different kinds of Used primarily as a table dip

HERITAGE SOY BEAN TChOeN CDhIMineENseTS SOY SAUCE, DARK SOY SAUCE, LIGHT transform here are a few different kinds of Used primarily as a table dip soy beans into various condiments by salting, fermenting and seasoning them. Preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) (top) are fermented with salt, and in their many incarnations are a common seasoning. They are sold whole, mashed, sweetened with red TdWMhaEIitNsLe OsTg,ENreRen-

185 MENU SUGGESMTIONESNU SUGGESTIONS CNY Reunion Dinner Casual FamilyCongee Yu Sheng (page 164) Chilli Crab (page 160) TMeeocahl ew Steamed Whole Fish (page 60) Char Siew (page 50) MSeweaetls Duck and Kiam Chye Soup (page 128) Hokkien Mee (page 116) TeoPcohteawto Ngoh Hiang (page 146) SteCaomnegdee Tang Yuan (page 172) Pom(pfaregte Orh Nee (page 152) C(paas1gu3ea8l) OMH1a4nek4eoak)rla PRlaicien Birthday Celebration WBrianCiseoendgee CPhoirckken Fragrant Glutinous Rice (page 118) or Hokkien Mee (page 116) (wpiathg eM 9u8i Steamed Whole Fish (page 60) CWCahosonuytaoln Fried Prawns with Black Sauce (page 58) TMES(1(ppwgto0eeaagu0oaaggp)mlee e7d2 Teochew Braised Duck (page 142) S(Optyeasagtmeered Tang Yuan (page 172) 6oOr2m )Setlier-tte Sf(rpwieaedgeet Dim Sum Party av1en4gd0e) tables Siew Mai (page 64) PotluckHSPaolaiuninra nreicsee Soon Kueh (page 148) PartyPorCkhicken Steamed Radish Cake (page 68) Stuffed Yu Tiao (page 70) (ApbaaCgcueursry Spring Rolls (page 66) 5B2e)a(dpsage Yong Tau Foo (page 102) W(pian8gt2ee)r Foochow Fish Balls (page 108) M10e4olo)rn SBoeueCpfh iHcokren

MENU SUGGESMTIONESNU SUGGESTIONS CNY Reunion Dinner Casual FamilyCongee Yu Sheng (page 164) Chilli Crab (page 160) TMeeocahl ew Steamed Whole Fish (page 60) Char Siew (page 50) MSeweaetls Duck and Kiam Chye Soup (page 128) Hokkien Mee (page 116) TeoPcohteawto Ngoh Hiang (page 146) SteCaomnegdee Tang Yuan (page 172) Pom(pfaregte Orh Nee (page 152) C(paas1gu3ea8l) MOH1a4nek4eoak)rla PRlaicien Birthday Celebration WBrianCiseoendgee CPhoirckken Fragrant Glutinous Rice (page 118) or Hokkien Mee (page 116) w(piathg eM 9u8i) Steamed Whole Fish (page 60) CWCahosonuytaoln Fried Prawns with Black Sauce (page 58) MT(S1(Eppwgto0eeaagu0oaaggp)mlee e7d2) Teochew Braised Duck (page 142) SO(ptyeasagtmeered Tang Yuan (page 172) oO6r2m )Setlier-tte f(Srpwieaedgeet Dim Sum Party v1aen4gd0e) tables Siew Mai (page 64) PotluckHPSaolaiuninra nreicsee Soon Kueh (page 148) PartyPorCkhicken Steamed Radish Cake (page 68) Stuffed Yu Tiao (page 70) A(pbaaCgcueursry Spring Rolls (page 66) B52e)a(dpsage Yong Tau Foo (page 102) (Wpian8gt2ee)r Foochow Fish Balls (page 108) 1M0e4olo)rn BSoeueCpfh iHcokren

186 CHINESE HERITWAGEEIGHTS & MEASURES Quantities for this book are given in Metric, Imperial and American (spoon) measures. Standard spoon and cup measurements used are: 1 tsp = 5 ml, 1 Tbsp = 15 ml, 1 cup = 250 ml. ALilql umide aasnudre Vso alurem lev Mele uansluersess otherwise stated. Metric Imperial American 5 ml ⅙ fl oz 1 teaspoon 10 ml ⅓ fl oz 1 dessertspoon 15 ml ½ fl oz 1 tablespoon 60 ml 2 fl oz ¼ cup (4 85 ml 2½ fl oz tablespoons) 90 ml 3 fl oz ⅓ cup 125 ml 4 fl oz ⅜ cup (6 180 ml 6 fl oz tablespoons) 250 ml 8 fl oz ½ cup 300 ml 10 fl oz (½ pint) ¾ cup 375 ml 12 fl oz 1 cup 435 ml 14 fl oz 1¼ cups 500 ml 16 fl oz 1½ cups 625 ml 20 fl oz (1 pint) 1¾ cups 750 ml 24 fl oz (1⅕ pints) 2 cups 1 litre 32 fl oz (1⅗ pints) 2½ cups 1.25 litres 40 fl oz (2 pints) 3 cups 1.5 litres 48 fl oz (2⅖ pints) 4 cups O2.v5e lnit rTeesmperatu8re0 fl oz (4 pints) 5 cups 6 cups

WEIGHTS & MEASURES Quantities for this book are given in Metric, Imperial and Dry American (spoon) measures. MMeetarsicures Standard spoon and cup measurements used are: 1 tsp = 5 30 grams ml, 1 Tbsp = 15 ml, 1 cup = 250 ml. 45 grams LAilql umide aasnudre Vso alurem lev Mele uansluersess otherwise stated. 55 grams 70 grams Imperial American 85 grams Imperial 100 1 ⅙ fl oz 1 teaspoon grams ounce 110 1½ ⅓ fl oz 1 dessertspoon grams ounces 125 2 ½ fl oz 1 tablespoon grams ounces 140 2½ 2 fl oz ¼ cup (4 grams ounces 280 3 2½ fl oz tablespoons) grams ounces 450 3½ 3 fl oz ⅓ cup grams ounces 500 4 4 fl oz ⅜ cup (6 Lgeranmgtsh ounces 700 4½ 6 fl oz tablespoons) ounces 5 8 fl oz ½ cup ounces 10 10 fl oz (½ pint) ¾ cup ounces 12 fl oz 1 cup 14 fl oz 1¼ cups 16 fl oz 1½ cups 20 fl oz (1 pint) 1¾ cups 24 fl oz (1⅕ pints) 2 cups 32 fl oz (1⅗ pints) 2½ cups 40 fl oz (2 pints) 3 cups 48 fl oz (2⅖ pints) 4 cups Oven Temperatu8re0 fl oz (4 pints) 5 cups 6 cups

187 RESOURCES RESOURCES Books & Online Publications Cheng, Lim Keak. “Patterns of Social Alignment: A Case Study of Hakka Associations inFrost, Mark Ravinder. “Transcultural Diaspora: The Straits Chinese in S Research Institute, Working Paper Singapore”. Southeast AsianHhattcpk:,/ /wwwK.aarrli.. nus.edu“C.shgin/adtoocws/nw ps/wapss 03_010a. pdf Microcosm Studies, Vol. 32 No. 4, Marchhttp://www.hsse.nie.edu.sg/staff/blackburn/ ChinatownHistory.pd Lai, Chee Kien. “Multi-ethnic Enclaves Around Middle Road: An 1995.Settlement in Singapore”. BiblioAsia, Vol. 2, Is http://www.cseas.kyoto-http://www.microsite.nl.sg/PDFs/BiblioAsia/ BIBA_0202Jul06.pdf u.ac.jp/edit/publications/seas/National Library Board, Singapore. “Singapore Story: Early Chinese http://mms. elibraryhub.com/shc/NLBHB/SS/SingaporeStory/Early index_en.htm.Tan, Chee-Beng, ed. Chinese Food and Foodways in TSaonu,t hTehaosmt aAss iTa. Wan. de dB. eCyhoinnde.s eS iDnigaalepcotr eG: roNuUpSs : PTrreasitss, Ta2o0nn1dg1 T,. radeCsh. eSein gapKoiroen: gO.p inio“nC hBionoeksse, 199i0n. Singapore”. http://www.upf.edu/mon/assig/xialmo/mat/kiong_3.pdf Museums Asian Civilisations Museum 1 Empress Place Singapore 179555Chinese Heritage Centre 12 Nanyang Drive Singapore 637721

OURCES ooks & Online Publications heng, Lim Keak. “Patterns of ocial Alignment: A Case Study f Hakka Associations inost, Mark Ravinder. “Transcultural Diaspora: The Straits Chinese in Singapore, 1819-1918”. Asia search Institute, Working Paper Series, No.10. ingapore”. Southeast Asiancpk:,/ /wwwK.aarrli.. nus.edu“C.shgin/adtoocws/nw ps/wapss 03_010a. pdf. Microcosm of Singapore”. tudies, Vol. 32 No. 4, Marchp://www.hsse.nie.edu.sg/staff/blackburn/ ChinatownHistory.pdf. , Chee Kien. “Multi-ethnic Enclaves Around Middle Road: An Examination of Early Urban ttlement in Singapore”. BiblioAsia, Vol. 2, Issue 2, July 2006. ttp://www.cseas.kyoto-p://www.microsite.nl.sg/PDFs/BiblioAsia/ BIBA_0202Jul06.pdf. tional Library Board, Singapore. “Singapore Story: Early Chinese Immigrants in Singapore”. .ac.jp/edit/publications/seas/p://mms. elibraryhub.com/shc/NLBHB/SS/SingaporeStory/Early_Chinese.pdf. ndex_en.htm.n, Chee-Beng, ed. Chinese Food and Foodways in nu,t hTehaosmt aAss iTa. Wan. de dB. eCyhoinnde.s eS iDnigaalepcotr eG: roNuUpSs : PTrreasitss, ng, Ch eSein gapKoiroen: gO.p inio“nC hBionoeksse, 199i0n. Singapore”. p://www.upf.edu/mon/assig/xialmo/mat/kiong_3.pdf. Museums Asian ivilisations Museum 1 mpress Place ingapore 179555inese Heritage Centre 12 Nanyang Drive ngapore 637721

188 INDEXCHINESE HERITAGE Abacus Beads 104 choy All-purpose Chilli Sauce 30 sum aubergine (eggplant/brinjal) 162 (Chinese flowering Bak Chor Mee 134 cabbage) Bak Kut Teh 126 44, 72 bean curd dried sheets 86 Chwee dried skin 146 cKruaebh 1 16500 firm 102, 142 cCrlaeya mPot fried, puffs 56, 168 cRriaceck 4e6rs red, fermented (nam yee) 50, 56 8co4conut white, fermented (foo yee) 86 sd1wrdcLLaCLC9sg9mcakoaiaururnrra620qehdiaiiirrutbids4,elnuddatk tiikpretsld1eniom eedyh3sf86denfr ,2 2i26,uds9,i8h2t, (dariseadm 104 bean sprouts 66, 114, 116, 122, 136 fgieshlugor) Beef Hor Fun 42 s1a2u8ce black fungus 86 1dr0i4e,d black prawn paste (haeko) 168 1ta1n4g, e1r3in4e Braised Pork with Mui Choy 100 fpieshecl a6k0e, 111304, 142 Char Kway Teow 114 Fdirvieed- Char Siew 50 chicken 46, 56, 74, 77–78, 82, 95–96, 98, 148 Chicken Rice 78 Chilli Crab 160 chilli bird’s eye 30, 78 green 30, 162

188 INDEXCHINESE HERITAGE Abacus Beads 104 choy All-purpose Chilli Sauce 30 sum aubergine (eggplant/brinjal) 162 (Chinese flowering Bak Chor Mee 134 cabbage) Bak Kut Teh 126 44, 72 bean curd dried sheets 86 Chwee dried skin 146 cKruaebh 1 16500 firm 102, 142 cCrlaeya mPot fried, puffs 56, 168 cRriaceck 4e6rs red, fermented (nam yee) 50, 56 8co4conut white, fermented (foo yee) 86 wdrdscLL1aCLC9sg9mcaokaiaururnarr206qehdiaiiirrutbids4,elnuddatk tiikpretsld1eniom eedyh3sf86denfr ,2 2i26,uds9,i8h2t,, d(ariseadm 104 bean sprouts 66, 114, 116, 122, 136 gfieshlugor) Beef Hor Fun 42 1sa2u8ce black fungus 86 d1r0i4e,d black prawn paste (haeko) 168 t1a1n4g, e1r3in4e Braised Pork with Mui Choy 100 fpieshecl a6k0e, 113140, 142 Char Kway Teow 114 Fdirvieed- Char Siew 50 chicken 46, 56, 74, 77–78, 82, 95–96, 98, 148 Chicken Rice 78 Chilli Crab 160 chilli bird’s eye 30, 78 green 30, 162

189 INDEX goat 86, 87 Ngoh Green Bean Soup 130 Hiang 146 noodles Hae Mee 122 bee hoon Hainanese Chicken Curry 77 (dried fine Hainanese Chicken Curry 82 vermicelli) Hainanese Kaya 92 116 Hainanese Mutton Soup 86 Hokkien Hainanese Pork Chops 84 114, 116 Hakka Rice Wine Chicken 98 O12rh2 Nee haw flakes 52 1ho52r fun 42 hoisin sauce 56 Okwysatyer HHookmkeie-nm Madeee Y1e1ll6ow Glutinous Rice Wine Otemowel e1t1te4 1la4k0sa 44 (Hakka-Style Yellow Rice Wine) 34, 46, pomyaesnetde akrnia 98, 100 ls1ea3au4vc,ee 1s36 HP sauce 84 74m82e,, e49 62p,,ok Huat Kueh 170 15523,4 ,5 61,7306 17273, 102, jellyfish 164, 165 p1e4a0nuts, boyosilteedrs or kai lan (Chinese broccoli) 42 s1t4e0wed kangkong (water spinach) 56, 122, 168 118 ppoeamneultos, ladies fingers 162 1ro6a4sted lamb 86, 87 lemon grass 82, 160, 162

189 INDEX goat 86, 87 Ngoh Green Bean Soup 130 Hiang 146 noodles Hae Mee 122 bee hoon Hainanese Chicken Curry 77 (dried fine Hainanese Chicken Curry 82 vermicelli) Hainanese Kaya 92 116 Hainanese Mutton Soup 86 Hokkien Hainanese Pork Chops 84 114, 116, Hakka Rice Wine Chicken 98 O12rh2 Nee haw flakes 52 1h5o2r fun 42 hoisin sauce 56 Okwysatyer HHoomkkeie-nm Madeee Y1e1ll6ow Glutinous Rice Wine Otemowel e1t1te4 1la4k0sa 44 (Hakka-Style Yellow Rice Wine) 34, 46, mopyaesnetde akrnia 98, 100 1slea3au4vc,ee 1s36 HP sauce 84 m4728e,, e49 26p,,ok Huat Kueh 170 51325,4 ,5 61,3706, 71723, 102, jellyfish 164, 165 1pe4a0nuts, obyosilteedrs or kai lan (Chinese broccoli) 42 s1t4e0wed kangkong (water spinach) 56, 122, 168 118 ppeoamneultos, ladies fingers 162 1ro6a4sted lamb 86, 87 lemon grass 82, 160, 162

190 CHINESE HERITAGE prawns (shrimps) 33, 58, 62, 64, 68, 70, Steamed 72, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 116, 118, 119, 122, 134, 146, 148 Radish dried 68, 102, 104, 118, 148 Cake 68 preserved salted radish (chai poh) 150 preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 50, Steamed 56, 160 Whole sFwispehre e6ts0erved red rice wine lees 35, 96 Stumffuesdtard Red Wine Lees Chicken 96 tYaomcua abTribainaodge red yeast rice 34 p7u0(ltpeem rice flour 68, 90, 148, 150, 170 1Sw6m2e,ue 1it68 rice wine 52, 64, 70, 114, 140, 160 PTYaauno1cnadrhk0gn o S05oy2)ur s1w72eet Shaoxing 42, 44, 46, 50, 58, 60, 62, ptaortoa t6o8, 66, 68, 86, 104, 118, 144, 148 110384, white 34, 98 106, rue 130 v1i4n6e,gar salted black beans 42 b1l5a2c,k 1 17326 salted prawn (shrimp) sauce (har cheong) 1Ta5u8yu CBhaikn k1i2a4ng, 54 bTelaocckh e1w34 salted preserved cabbage (tung chai) 136 wrBicroaeni s3teo0dn, skin salted vegetable (kiam chye) 128, 144 65D24u,,c k71264 salty preserved mustard cabbage (harm W14o2nton Soup mui choy) 100 7Te2ochew sambal chilli 116 sausage Chinese 46, 114 liver 46

CHINESE HERITAGE prawns (shrimps) 33, 58, 62, 64, 68, 70, Steamed 72, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 116, 118, 119, 122, 134, 146, 148 Radish dried 68, 102, 104, 118, 148 Cake 68 preserved salted radish (chai poh) 150 preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 50, Steamed 56, 160 Whole sFwispehre e6ts0erved red rice wine lees 35, 96 Stumffuesdtard Red Wine Lees Chicken 96 Ytaomcua abTribainaodge red yeast rice 34 7pu0(ltpeem rice flour 68, 90, 148, 150, 170 S1w6m2e,ue 1it68 rice wine 52, 64, 70, 114, 140, 160 aTPYaunoc1nadrhk0gn o S05oy2)ur 1sw72eet Shaoxing 42, 44, 46, 50, 58, 60, 62, ptaortoa t6o8, 66, 68, 86, 104, 118, 144, 148 110348, white 34, 98 106, rue 130 v1i4n6e,gar salted black beans 42 b1l5a2c,k 1 17326, salted prawn (shrimp) sauce (har cheong) 1Ta5u8yu CBhaikn k1i2a4ng, 54 bTelaocckh e1w34 salted preserved cabbage (tung chai) 136 wrBicroaeni s3teo0dn, skin salted vegetable (kiam chye) 128, 144 56D24u,,c k71264 salty preserved mustard cabbage (harm W14o2nton Soup mui choy) 100 7Te2ochew sambal chilli 116 sausage Chinese 46, 114 liver 46

191 PHOTOPHOTO CREDITS CREDITS All photographs by Hongde Photography except aBse rindaricda tGeod: bpealgoews: 6 (bottom: toy lion dance lions), 9, 10 Chinese chess), 11 (all except top right image), 20, 21, stall), 41 (left: dim sum), 113 (left: a traditional steamboat made of enamel) and 157 (left: dried melon seeds and pe nCherwis tyoepahre cra Tkaens:) pages 6 (top left: egg tarts), 10 (left: fryin 11 (top right: a fish stall at a wet market), 29 (left: bott sauces at a Chinese grocery stall), 35, 76 (a Hainanese fo breakfast spread of kaya toast and soft-boiled egg; right: t rKi cFe Wdounmgp lCinoglles cwtioranp/pNeadti oinn awl Aorvcehniv epsa lomf Slienagvaepso) rea:n Tdh i1rd3 ofrmonetl ectotvee or r( ao rC lhuianke;s rei gchotf:f eae T eshoochpe iwn Cohpinearato pwenrf,o 1rm96a5n)ce) Ministry of Information, Communications and the Arts/N Singapore: pages 16, 22 and 27 National Archives of Singapore: First, second and fourth i front cover (a roadside vegetable stall, 1950; a fishmong the Singapore River, 1946; eating at an itinerant hawke cover (an itinerant noodle seller, 1950), pages 13 Singapore Tourism Board/National Archives of Singapore: page 25