Chinese heritage cooking

110 chinese heritage 1. Prepare fish paste. Toss fish meat with salt until well mixed, then cover with plastic 2. wCormapb ianned ccohldil l fiinsh t hmee farte ewziethr uengtgil wfishhi teis icno lad faonodd fpirromc ebsusto rn. oPtu flsroez eunn tislo fliisdh. is finely minced, then add 1 Tbsp of the ice-cold water and process at medium speed. Stop 3. pMroixc epsostiantgo wsthaercnh faisnhd p taasptieo cloao sktsa rscmh otoo tah samndooth cpoahstees iwveit. hS crreampea infiisnhg picaest-eco ilndt ow aater, 4. ctShlceeoanon p p bououpwr flii.ts ho vpears tfeis hw pitahs tae wanetd hkanneda da nind throw it bthaocrko uingthol yt.he bowl to compact it. Repeat this 30–40 times, until paste feels dense 5. aCnodm bfoinrme sin ag rbeadlile. nStcsr afpoer fpilalisntge ainntdo stir until sam polaostthic abnadg ,w perlel sbsl eonudt etdh.e C aoivr,e sr eaanl dthe bag and 6. rcPehrfeirllpi gafeorrea atseta llfteoeard s 2tw 03 a0mt emirn. uiDntuiestsse.osl.ve salt in lukewarm 7. Pwraetpearr ein fias hb obwalll.s. Roll filling into small balls the size of large peas or beans. With wet hands, roll a generous tablespoonful of fish paste into a ball, then make a deep dent in the ball with your thumb. Place a ball of filling 8. iBnrtion gt hae ladregnet ,p poitn cohf wfisaht epr atsot ea tgoentle simmer eovneclro msee tdhiuem b ahlle atn.d A sdeda lf.i sPhl abcael lfsi ntios hpeodt fish ball iann dsa pltoeadc hw afoter r8. –M9a mkein aultle fsis uhn btial llcsooked through. Wlikaetweri sme.ay not return to a simmer until near the end of the cooking—this is fine. NOTSseEcorvoipn go utht efmish i mbamllse.d Iifa tneolyt , utsrainngs foerr fish balls to a •b Doiwffelr eonft ffisrhe csahn bwe aursmed two maateker thaen fdis hl ebatll paste. Among the stmanosdt puonputlial r nareee mdaeckde.rel, yellowtail and lizardfish (sai toh yu). Whichever fish you use, fillet it, then scrape the remaining scraps of flesh off the skin and bones with a sharp-edged spoon or • Fkonri fteh.e P biceks th frlaovuoguhr tahned f lteesxhture, cook and consume the fish balls as saogoanin a tso pmosaskieb lseu areft ethrere are no bones. making them. • The water used for cooking the fish balls can be strained and used as a base for stock.





HOKKIEN DISHES



Char 114 Kway 116 Teow 118 Hokkien 122 Mee 124 Fragrant 126 Glutinous 128

114 CHAR KWAY TEOW chinese heritage Serves 2–3 This dish of fried noodles is difficult to perfect, but the final prod effort! High heat, a well-seasoned wok and lard are stepping st more times you cook this, the more attuned your eye and han short successive frying stages for the different ingredients. traditional, but it helps to flame the noodles in a home kitchen— a hawker wok need no such assistance. Chinese sausage (lup cheong) 1 Kway teow (fresh broad rice noodles) 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Fresh Hokkien noodles 100 g (3½ oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 2-3 Tbsp Garlic 4 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Rice wine 1 Tbsp Shelled and cleaned blood cockles (optional) 100 g (3½ oz) Fried fishcake 100 g (3½ oz), thinly sliced Bean sprouts 200 g (7 oz), tails trimmed Chinese chives (ku cai) 4 stalks, cut into 4-cm (1½-in) lengths All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) 1 Tbsp or to taste Crispy lard cubes (page 32) 2 Tbsp 2. E gTghsin 2ly, slilgichet lCyh bineeastee ns aSuasuacgee Sounp ea ridoiar gtohnicakl, dthaerkn sobyla snacuhc sel ic2e½s iTnb sbpoiling water for 3. S u1Lpo0eo ssreieocnro nkliwdgsha.t y D srtoaeyion w saa naudnc des e1Hto Takbkssiidepen. noodles with 4. F iySsoheut sra a fuiwncgoeek 2 rso tvtseopr svBeerporaywr ahntie gs hau nghyae rac tlou. rmS wcphisro.l plparedd opr aolmil suingtaor wok, then add garlic and fry for 5. ( g2Au0dl ads ebmcooetnhlad ktsy apu) en1sti loT sbfo snfpto eo1nd.e l de sMa aninxd d ab lselt giirni-nfgrnryei ndagbie otnoutts 1for sabmurcoinewu nteo. guenthtiel rn ouondtile su agraer hdeisastoeldv etsh.r oSuegt ha.side. Add rice wine to wok and let it flame up so the noodles scorch a little and take on a

CHAR KWAY TEOW Serves 2–3 This dish of fried noodles is difficult to perfect, but the final product is totally worth the effort! High heat, a well-seasoned wok and lard are stepping stones to perfection: the more times you cook this, the more attuned your eye and hand will become to the short successive frying stages for the different ingredients. The rice wine is not traditional, but it helps to flame the noodles in a home kitchen—the powerful flames of a hawker wok need no such assistance. Chinese sausage (lup cheong) 1 Kway teow (fresh broad rice noodles) 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Fresh Hokkien noodles 100 g Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 2-3 Tbsp 4 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Rice wine 1 Tbsp Shelled and cleaned blood cockles (optional) 100 g (3½ oz) Fried fishcake 100 g (3½ oz), thinly sliced Bean sprouts 200 g (7 oz), tails trimmed Chinese ku cai) 4 stalks, cut into 4-cm (1½-in) lengths All-purpose chilli sauce page 30) 1 Tbsp or to taste Crispy lard cubes (page 32) 2 2. Thin 2ly, slilgichet lCyh bineeastee ns aSuasuacgee Sounp ea ridoiar gtohnicakl, dthaerkn sobyla snacuhc sel ic2e½s iTnb sbpoiling water for 3. S u1Lpo0eo ssreieocnro nkliwdgsha.t y D srtoaeyion w saa naudnc des e1Hto Takbkssiidepen. noodles with 4. F iySsoheut sra a fuiwncgoeek 2 rso tvtseopr svBeerporaywr ahntie gs hau nghyae rac tlou. rmS wcphisro.l plparedd opr aolmil into wok, then add garlic and fry for 5. g2Au0dl ads ebmcooetnhlad ktsy apu) en1sti loT sbfo snfpto eo1nd.e l de sMa aninxd d ab lselt giirni-nfgrnryei ndagbie otnoutts 1for samucineu teo guenthtiel rn ouondtile su agraer hdeisastoeldv etsh.r oSuegt ha.side. Add rice wine to wok and let it flame up so the noodles scorch a little and take on a





116 HOKKIEN MEE chinese heritage Serves 3–4 Traditional Hokkien mee is made with flat yellow noodles. The S made with round noodles, has a paler gravy based on a rich sto sambal belacan. Known colloquially as Rochor mee, hawkers in the Rochor Road area in the late 1800s and well into many food stalls use fresh laksa bee hoon instead of thin dried the dish a wetter texture. Squid 1, medium Light pork or chicken stock (page 33) or water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Lean pork 100 g (3½ oz) Belly pork 100 g (3½ oz) Prawns (shrimps) 200 g (7 oz) Bee hoon (dried fine vermicelli) 80 g (2⅘ oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 3 Tbsp Garlic 4 cloves, peeled and minced Fresh Hokkien noodles 400 g (14⅓ oz) Eggs 2, beaten Bean sprouts 200 g (7 oz) Chinese chives (ku cai) 10, cut into 4-cm (1½-in) lengths Salt to taste 2G. r o uBnridn gw shtoitcek poer pwpaetre tro t ota as tegentle simmer over Lighpmto esaodciyhu msfoa ruh c1ee0a tt.mo A itndaudst teeles a.G nTau rarnnnis doh fbefes h llCeyra ipts,op cryko vlaaenrrdd p cout bes 3(.p a gaPene de3 l l2ep)tr aapwso nrdkse , sktiraeeneddp iSnfolgirc et1ad5i l srm eindint aucctheti.sl l.Si eeRste mipnro alvwigenhst soy saucapesoirdke f. rAomdd sptoracwk na nhde asldicse a tnhdin slyh.e Sllest taos sidtoec. k. as dBceorsivnierger edtd oS, aafo mbr ob2ial0,l tmchheiinlnlui ltaoesws .d eSert srhaireienad ts atoncdk simmer, half-

HOKKIEN MEE Serves 3–4 Traditional Hokkien mee is made with flat yellow noodles. The Singaporean variation is made with round noodles, has a paler gravy based on a rich stock, and is served with sambal belacan. Known colloquially as Rochor mee, it was popularised by street hawkers in the Rochor Road area in the late 1800s and well into the 1970s. These days, many food stalls use fresh laksa bee hoon instead of thin dried bee hoon, which gives the dish a wetter texture. 1, medium Light pork or chicken stock (page 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Lean pork 100 100 g (3½ oz) Prawns (shrimps) 200 g (7 oz) Bee hoon (dried fine vermicelli) oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 4 cloves, peeled and minced Fresh Hokkien noodles 400 g (14⅓ oz) 2, beaten Bean sprouts 200 g (7 oz) Chinese ku cai) 10, cut into 4-cm (1½-in) lengths Salt to taste 2G. r o uBnridn gw shtoitcek poer pwpaetre tro t ota as tegentle simmer over Lighmpto esaodciyhu msfoa ruh c1ee0a tt.mo A itndaudst teeles a.G nTau rarnnnis doh fbefes h llCeyra ipts,op cryko vlaaenrrdd p cout bes 3. aPnede l leptr aapwso nrdkse , sktiraeeneddp iSnfolgirc et1ad5i l srm eindint aucctheti.sl l.Si eeRste mipnro alvwigenhst soy apsoirdke f. rAomdd sptoracwk na nhde asldicse a tnhdin slyh.e Sllest taos sidtoec. k. as dBceorsivnierger edtd oS, aafo mbr ob2ial0,l tmchheiinlnlui ltaoesws .d eSert srhaireienad ts atoncdk simmer, half-





118 FRAGRANT GLUTINOUS RICE chinese heritage Serves 4–6 Also known as Hokkien oil rice (you png), this is a quintesse special occasions and celebrations. This dish tastes good at warm or cooled—and thus makes a good picnic food and sna tempted to use ready-made fried shallots in oil despite the flavour of freshly fried shallots is part of what makes this dish r White glutinous rice 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Dried shiitake mushrooms 8 Dried prawns (shrimps) 40 g (1⅓ oz) Pork shoulder with some fat 140 g (5 oz) Superior light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Superior dark soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp Cooking oil 125 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Shallots 6, peeled and thinly sliced Ginger 4 slices Finely chopped garlic 1 Tbsp Garnishes Sliced red chillies as desired Chopped coriander leaves (cilantro) or Chinese celery leaves as desired Chopped spring onions (scallions) as desired Boiled or stewed peanuts as desired

FRAGRANT GLUTINOUS RICE Also known as Hokkien oil rice (you png), this is a quintessential Hokkien dish for special occasions and celebrations. This dish tastes good at any temperature—hot, warm or cooled—and thus makes a good picnic food and snack as well. Do not be tempted to use ready-made fried shallots in oil despite the convenience, as the flavour of freshly fried shallots is part of what makes this dish really sing. White glutinous rice 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Dried shiitake mushrooms 8 Dried prawns (shrimps) 40 g (1⅓ oz) Pork shoulder with some fat 140 g (5 oz) Superior light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Superior dark soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp Cooking oil 125 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) 6, peeled and thinly sliced 4 slices Finely chopped garlic 1 Tbsp Garnishes Sliced red as desired Chopped coriander leaves (cilantro) or Chinese celery leaves as desired Chopped spring onions (scallions) as desired Boiled or stewed peanuts as desired

119 1. Wash glutinous rice well and drain. Cover with fresh water and let soak for 2. tawCrtoaa vylteee atrro s da td rn4iredy d h so oomuuatruk sss , flhiotgrhroh eo4tnlm0y . dsmr awiinniut hwte seso,llm. Sep rluekaedw oaurtm on a then drain, reserving water. Cut off mushroom 3. sCtoevmers darniedd s lpicraew cnasp sw inittho water and soak for 15 tmhin usttersip, st.hen drain, reserving 4. wCoamtebr.i nCeo asrosaeklyin gch loiqpu sido afrkoemd dmriuesdh rporoawmns sa. nd dried prawns and strain. Measure 5. aSnlicde t oppo ruk pi nwtoit hth finre ssthr ipwsa. tMeri,x i fw niethe dliegdh,t taon gde dtark 6so0y0 smaul c(e2s0 afnl do zr)i cwe awteinr ein, total. 6. stcHeohemvaaeltpl oroe tairslan aitdnun rldaee afsfrvomyer, a2stlotl0 i rp mrmoinatig nro iunvvtaeeetrrsey .m aet dciouoml rhoeoamt. Add frequently, until shallots are golden brown. Scoop 7. sShcoaollopt s5 oTubts pa nodil pfrlaocme fornying shallots into a wok. pSeatp eorv etor wmeelsd ituom d-rhaiignh. heat. 89.. AfaADrndadradgddi r n sagg tniplinurto-g.tfrirenkyro, fuaroesnr s dre1i crg vemai nrtilongic u wmtaeona.kdri nafarnydd ef os. trAi r4d-f5dry sp egoceroknn ttldoys wfuoonr kt1il minute. Add liquid from soaking dried prawns and mushrooms and pork marinade and stir well. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium. Cover wok 10. Taunrdn criocoek o fuotr o5n–t8o ma inseurtveisn gu nptlial tter and sprinkle wnoit hm forried l iqshuaidll oists v aisnibdl eg.a Trunrisnh hees.at to low, cover wSeorkv et ighhotl.y and let rice cook NOTuEntil tender, a further 10–14 minutes. • Instead of cooking the rice directly in the wok, you can steam it, which makes it slightly more moist and sticky. In this case, measure out only 400 ml (13⅓ fl oz) of the combined dried prawns and mushroom soaking liquid and add it to the wok in step 9. Cook uncovered until all the liquid has been absorbed, then scoop

1. Wash glutinous rice well and drain. Cover with fresh water and let soak for 2. tawCrtoaa vylteee atrro s da td rn4iredy d h so oomuuatruk sss , flhiotgrhroh eo4tnlm0y . dsmr awiinniut hwte seso,llm. Sep rluekaedw oaurtm on a then drain, reserving water. Cut off mushroom 3. sCtoevmers darniedd s lpicraew cnasp sw inittho water and soak for 15 tmhin usttersip, st.hen drain, reserving 4. wCoamtebr.i nCeo asrosaeklyin gch loiqpu sido afrkoemd dmriuesdh rporoawmns sa. nd dried prawns and strain. Measure 5. aSnlicde t oppo ruk pi nwtoit hth finre ssthr ipwsa. tMeri,x i fw niethe dliegdh,t taon gde dtark 6so0y0 smaul c(e2s0 afnl do zr)i cwe awteinr ein, total. 6. sctHeohemvaaeltpl oroe tairslan aitdnun rldaee afsfrvomyer, a2stlotl0 i rp mrmoinatig nro iunvvtaeeetrrsey .m aet dciouoml rhoeoamt. Add frequently, until shallots are golden brown. Scoop 7. sShcoaollopt s5 oTubts pa nodil pfrlaocme fornying shallots into a wok. Speatp eorv etor wmeelsd ituom d-rhaiignh. heat. 8. ADdradi ng ipnogrekr, arensde rgvainrlgic manadri nfaryd efo. rA 4d5d speocrokn tdos wuonktil 9. aAnddd sgtliur-tfirnyo fuosr r1ic em tion uwteo.k and stir-fry gently for 1 minute. Add liquid from soaking dried prawns and mushrooms and pork marinade and stir well. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium. Cover wok 10. Taunrdn criocoek o fuotr o5n–t8o ma inseurtveisn gu nptlial tter and sprinkle wnoit hm forried l iqshuaidll oists v aisnibdl eg.a Trunrisnh hees.at to low, cover Sweorkv et ighhotl.y and let rice cook until tender, a further 10–14 minutes. • Instead of cooking the rice directly in the wok, you can steam it, which makes it slightly more moist and sticky. In this case, measure out only 400 ml (13⅓ fl oz) of the combined dried prawns and mushroom soaking liquid and add it to the wok in step 9. Cook uncovered until all the liquid has been absorbed, then scoop







122 HAE MEE CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 Originally from Xiamen in Fujian province, this recipe for not quick or simple to make, but your labour will be rewarded w meal. The ideal hae mee should boast a broth that looks decept but is richly resonant with the flavours of pork and prawns (shrim be dotted with islands of oil tinted red from the prawn shells. Y to the stock in step 1 to give it more body. Pork ribs 250 g (9 oz) Water 1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) Lean pork 250 g (9 oz) Medium-size prawns (shrimps) 300 g (11 oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 2 Tbsp Crushed rock sugar 2 Tbsp Garlic 2 cloves, peeled and sliced White peppercorns ¼ tsp Superior light soy sauce 2 tsp or to taste Superior dark soy sauce 2 tsp or to taste Salt to taste Fresh Hokkien noodles 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) 2B.e a nA dsdp rloeaunts p1o8r0k tgo (p6o½t aonzd) sKiamnmgkeor nfogr (awnaotheer r 30 spinsmatcoihnc)uk t1eco0s o0ul ngint i (l t3lhe½ea npo ozp)to,, rtkh eisn t estnrdaeinr. iLt,e treserving lean 3S.p r i npSgloi tr ckpu. rtaD winscntoas r d4a -lorcinmbgs (itf1h ½tehi-rei nyb) ah claekvsne ga tnhods mrGeamorrneoivshees Crisp- friedtfhl asrvheoaudllrlo.i ktSsel i acbesl a ldceeka sniinr eptedosrtkin tehsin. lRye. move and reserve 4C.h o phahHpneeedaattd d .ss leaW satrp dhnra iedsnon irgds he vooe eiilnlrn lyiis no .t hnWaoes ta la,(rs esrhagcfd raepidgl rl weiapowrornaakntswo ) or bn.avo sehd reid emaesds,e isrpdeaidut mdr-yhigh Crispayn dla srhde cllus bteos w (poak gaen d3 2f)ry a fso rd e1s imreidnute, then add Slicerdoc rke sdu gchari,l ligeasr liicn alingdh tp esoppy esracourcnes .a Ss tidr-esired

HAE MEE Serves 3–4 Originally from Xiamen in Fujian province, this recipe for hae mee or prawn noodles is not quick or simple to make, but your labour will be rewarded with an utterly satisfying meal. The ideal hae mee should boast a broth that looks deceptively plain and brown, but is richly resonant with the flavours of pork and prawns (shrimps). Its surface should be dotted with islands of oil tinted red from the prawn shells. You can add a pig’s tail to the stock in step 1 to give it more body. 250 g (9 oz) 1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) 250 g (9 oz) Medium-size prawns (shrimps) 300 g (11 oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 2 Tbsp rock sugar 2 Tbsp 2 cloves, peeled and sliced White peppercorns ¼ tsp Superior light soy sauce 2 tsp or to taste Superior dark soy sauce 2 tsp or to taste Salt to Hokkien noodles 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) 2B.e a nA dsdp rloeaunts p1o8r0k tgo (p6o½t aonzd) sKiamnmgkeor nfogr (awnaotheer r 30 smtoincuk t1eco0s o0ul ngint i (l t3lhe½ea npo ozp)to,, rtkh eisn t estnrdaeinr. iLt,e treserving lean Sprinpgo rckpu. rtaD winscntoas r d4a -lorcinmbgs (itf1h ½tehi-rei nyb) ah claekvsne ga tnhods mrGeamorrneoivshees Crisp- friedfthl asrvheoaudllrlo.i ktSsel i acbesl a ldceeka sniinr eptedosrtkin tehsin. lRye. move and reserve 4C.h o phhaHpneeedaattd d .ss leaW satrp dhnra iedsnon irgds he vooe eiilnlrn lyiis no .t hnWaoes ta la,(rs esrhagcfd raepidgl rl weiapowrornaakntswo ) or bn.avo sehd reid emaesds,e isrpdeaidut mdr-yhigh Crispayn dla srhde cllus bteos w (poak gaen d3 2f)ry a fso rd e1s imreidnute, then add Slicerdoc rke sdu gchari,l ligeasr liicn alingdh tp esoppy esracourcnes .a Ss tidr-esired





124 TAUYU BAK CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4–5 This dish of braised pork in soy sauce is a southern Chinese ste simplicity. Different versions can be found in the Chinese dias Asia. Rubbing the pork with five-spice powder before frying allo in the hot oil and caramelised sugar, bringing out their fragran five-spice powder makes a world of difference. Like most stews a day or two old. Pork belly 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Superior thick dark soy sauce 3 Tbsp Five-spice powder (page 31) 1 tsp Cooking oil 2 Tbsp Sugar 2 Tbsp Garlic 4 cloves, unpeeled Superior light soy sauce 2 Tbsp Water 300 ml (10 fl oz / 1¼ cups) Salt to taste 1. Scrape pork belly skin with a sharp knife to remove any bristles. Wash well and pat dry, then cut into chunks about 4-cm (1½-in) wide. Bring a pot of water to the boil and 2b.l a n Hceha pt oorikl abnedll ys ucghaurn tkosg efothr e1r min inau wteo, kt hoer nl adrgraei npot wello. vPeart mcheudniukms dhreya at,n sdw mirliixn gw tehlle wpaitnh 1 Tbinspst ethaidc ko fd astrikr risnogy. sWahuecen asungda fri vhea-ss pciacrea mpoewlisdeedr . to an amber colour, add pork belly 3C.o v ecArhd uadnn krdes m.l eBate inm cinaagrrei ntfhautilc eak s fd oiart rw3k 0isl lom ysp insluaututteceser. aFnryd faolrl 1other in aim ncgoinroeuld tepie,l antcutesr n.tion gth teh ep octh. uBnrkins gt ot oc oaa tb othile, m hwaitlfh- ctohvee rc aarnadm leolw. er heat to maintain a simmer. There should be only just enough liquid

TAUYU BAK Serves 4–5 This dish of braised pork in soy sauce is a southern Chinese stew that is primal in its simplicity. Different versions can be found in the Chinese diaspora across South East Asia. Rubbing the pork with five-spice powder before frying allows the spices to toast in the hot oil and caramelised sugar, bringing out their fragrance. Using home-made five-spice powder makes a world of difference. Like most stews, it tastes better when a day or two old. 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Superior thick dark soy sauce 3 Tbsp Five-spice powder (page 31) 1 tsp Cooking oil 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 4 cloves, unpeeled Superior light soy sauce 2 Tbsp 300 ml (10 fl oz / 1¼ cups) to taste 1. Scrape pork belly skin with a sharp knife to remove any bristles. Wash well and pat dry, then cut into chunks about 4-cm (1½-in) wide. Bring a pot of water to the boil and 2b.l a n Hceha pt oorikl abnedll ys ucghaurn tkosg efothr e1r min inau wteo, kt hoer nl adrgraei npot wello. vPeart mcheudniukms dhreya at,n sdw mirliixn gw tehlle wpaitnh 1 Tbinspst ethaidc ko fd astrikr risnogy. sWahuecen asungda fri vhea-ss pciacrea mpoewlisdeedr . to an amber colour, add pork belly 3C.o v ecArhd uadnn krdes m.l eBate inm cinaagrrei ntfhautilc eak s fd oiart rw3k 0isl lom ysp insluaututteceser. aFnryd faolrl 1other in ami ncgoinroeuld tepie,l antcutesr n.tion gth teh ep octh. uBnrkins gt ot oc oaa tb othile, m hwaitlfh- ctohvee rc aarnadm leolw. er heat to maintain a simmer. There should be only just enough liquid





126 BAK KUT TEH CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 Although there are now different dialectal versions of it—a Teochew rendition is the most widely available in Singapore— a Hokkien dish. Rather than using commercially-prepared which often overdo the pepper, assemble your own spice mix f satisfying result. Cooking oil or liquid lard (page 32) 1 Tbsp Castor sugar 1½ Tbsp Water 3 litres (96 fl oz / 12 cups) Garlic 14 cloves, whole and unpeeled Meaty pork ribs 800 g (1¾ lb) Light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Thick dark soy sauce 2 tsp Salt to taste Spices Broken cinnamon stick fragments 1 Tbsp White peppercorns ¾ tsp Black peppercorns ¾ tsp 2S.i c h Cuoamn bpienpe poeirl caonrdn ss u¼g atsr pin a wok or heavy-based Clovpeost .2 Cook over medium heat for Stars1 au–ng2a ismre hi n4au spt emest,ea sllstwe Gdir alairnnngdis thcheaesr a wmSloieckle isodec dcrae, sdio cnhaillllyie, su nintil 3d.a r kfB olsraomnyci nhsg ap ubocreok warisnb sdg elionsb iraue ldpeos.t Iomf mboeidliinagte wlya atedrd fowra 1ter— Coriasimatpnn iwiddnc eeuidl rtl reb sal,aei izngtazh .vl weBen—ers il ntrl(hi.gn ceA isltnedao dn gua tantr orobdl io)ecs ir pal c,is rcl tuoehdnvdeeen nssibni rrlageon dtwwhd e 1awr.t eih tr heCa oltim gahnbtid naend spicecdosa vraken rs.d oS ytimi es mauuepcr e isng eaann tdmly s ufismolrinm 2 e0br a mgfo irno rua tbaeo spu. itece of 4m. u sf9wTlair0natit ,nh mcts lhfosieneatrhunl t.t r eisaSbtsners,a d tuti noanm stbaioildr rosmeeet. hersv oatityhn rgisos a uttuugecrhnee de aeon rrf. insSAuekdgi-mjaurs ot fsfe eaxscoensisng tmo etsahs tsei.e Tvuer n(l ionfef hweiatht, cclovthe rf opro th teig chltelya raenstd blerotth) astnadn dp ouunrd oisvteur breibds .f oSre 1rv5e mhointu wteisth.

BAK KUT TEH Serves 3–4 Although there are now different dialectal versions of it—and in fact, the clear Teochew rendition is the most widely available in Singapore—bak kut teh is originally a Hokkien dish. Rather than using commercially-prepared bak kut teh spice sachets, which often overdo the pepper, assemble your own spice mix for a fresher and more satisfying result. Cooking oil or liquid lard (page 32) 1 Tbsp Castor sugar 1½ Tbsp 3 litres (96 fl oz / 12 cups) 14 cloves, whole and unpeeled Meaty pork ribs 800 g (1¾ lb) Light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Thick dark soy sauce 2 tsp to taste Spices Broken cinnamon stick 1 Tbsp White peppercorns ¾ tsp Black peppercorns ¾ tsp 2S.i c h Cuoamn bpienpe poeirl caonrdn ss u¼g atsr pin a wok or heavy-based pot. Cook over medium heat for 1su–g2a mr hi n4au spt emest,ea sllstwe Gdir alairnnngdis thcheaesr a wmSloieckle isodec dcrae, sdio cnhaillllyie, su nintil 3d.a r kfB olsraomnyci nhsg ap ubocreok warisnb sdg elionsb iraue ldpeos.t Iomf mboeidliinagte wlya atedrd fowra 1ter— Coriaaismtpnn iwiddnc eeuidl rtl reb sal,aei izngtazh .vl weBen—ers il ntrl(hi.gn ceA isltnedao dn gua tantr orobdl io)ecs ir pal c,is rcl tuoehdnvdeeen nssibni rrlageon dtwwhd e 1awr.t eih tr heCa oltim gahnbtid naend spicedcosa vraken rs.d oS ytimi es mauuepcr e isng eaann tdmly s ufismolrinm 2 e0br a mgfo irno rua tbaeo spu. itece of 4m. u s9wfTlair0natit ,nh mcts lhfosieneatrhunl t.t r eisaSbtsners,a d tuti noanm stbaioildr rosmeeet. hersv oatityhn rgisos a uttuugecrhnee de aeon rrf. insSAuekdgi-mjaurs ot fsfe eaxscoensisng tmo etsahs tsei.e Tvuer n(l ionfef hweiatht, cclovthe rf opro th teig chltelya raenstd blerotth) astnadn dp ouunrd oisvteur breibds .f oSre 1rv5e mhointu wteisth.





128 DUCK AND CHINESE HERITAGEKIAM CHYE SOUP Serves 5–6 Savoury, sour and soulful, this soup features in the food repert dialect group—the Teochews and Hokkiens both have their ow Peranakan Chinese. It is a typical southern Chinese strategy to us vegetables as a foil for rich meats. Here, the slow simmering m of the salted vegetable (kiam chye) and the gamy duck, each fla to achieve a deep and soothing result. Duck 1, about 1.75–2 kg (3 lb 14 oz–4 lb 6 oz), cleaned Salt 1 Tbsp Meaty pork ribs 250 g (9 oz) Ginger 3 thick slices, bruised Water 3 litres (96 fl oz / 12 cups) Salted vegetable (kiam chye) 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), washed well, drained and soaked in water for 30 minutes Wet salted plums (sng boey) 3 Dried sour fruit (asam gelugor) 3 slices Firm-ripe tomatoes 5, cut into quarters Salt to taste Sugar to taste 1. With a small, sharp knife, remove tail, skin and as much fat as possible from duck. Cut duck into large serving pieces. Rub duck pieces all over with salt, then rinse very well. Trim off and discard any large fat nuggets from pork ribs. 2. Bring a pot of water to the boil. Blanch pork and duck pieces for 2 minutes, then 3. dCoraminb iwnee lld. uck, pork ribs, ginger and 3 litres (96 fl

DUCK AND KIAM CHYE SOUP Serves 5–6 Savoury, sour and soulful, this soup features in the food repertoire of more than one dialect group—the Teochews and Hokkiens both have their own versions, as do the Peranakan Chinese. It is a typical southern Chinese strategy to use pickled or preserved vegetables as a foil for rich meats. Here, the slow simmering mellows the robust tang of the salted vegetable (kiam chye) and the gamy duck, each flavour taming the other to achieve a deep and soothing result. 1, about 1.75–2 kg (3 lb 14 oz–4 lb 6 oz), cleaned Salt 1 Tbsp Meaty pork ribs 250 g (9 oz) 3 thick slices, bruised 3 litres (96 fl oz / 12 cups) Salted vegetable (kiam chye) 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), washed well, drained and soaked in water for 30 minutes Wet salted plums sng boey) 3 Dried sour fruit (asam gelugor) 3 slices Firm-ripe tomatoes 5, cut into quarters to taste to taste 1. With a small, sharp knife, remove tail, skin and as much fat as possible from Cut duck into large serving pieces. Rub duck pieces all over with salt, then rinse very well. Trim off and discard any large fat nuggets from pork ribs. 2. Bring a pot of water to the boil. Blanch pork and duck pieces for 2 minutes, then 3. dCoraminb iwnee lld. uck, pork ribs, ginger and 3 litres (96 fl





130 GREEN BEAN SOUP CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4–6 A classic cooling soup. Feathery fresh rue leaves (chou cao for them at the herb stalls in Chinatown Complex market or in —but they really make a difference to the taste of this swe smells cheesily pungent when fresh, it transforms in the sou peachy aroma to it. Whole green mung beans 200 g (7 oz) Water 2 litres (64 fl oz / 8 cups) Fresh rue (optional) 2 sprigs Dried tangerine peel 2–3 pieces, or about half a tangerine’s worth Finely crushed rock sugar 125 g (4½ oz) or to taste 1. Pick the green beans over to get rid of any grit, then wash well and 2d.r a i nD.r aCionv ebre awnist hwell, then combine with 2 litres (64 ampflle o lzu k/e w8 acrumps )w faretesrh awnadt eler ti ns oaa kla rfgoer 4p ohto. urs. Slowly bring to a boil over medium-low heat. (This will take a while, but will give the soup a better texture.) 3. Cover pot, reduce heat 4. osts1Rotic5imin cr–lrsao2miensw0i ego r rmuna geunaien lndnlauyc tn,sotl eydivums ena mrtodeirlded bu r t fenoboat erinp la asobn nteas o awrtfenhoi tsersh ora2 ftr0tae –nb 2sgu5teta rmrsitntiiinelnlg upw tteeohes o,bl lreae.nadk 5. Addowd nro. cTku rsnu goaffr haenadt swtirh eun ttilh deissolved. Serve hot coor ncsoisldte. ncy is as coarse or smooth as you like it. NOTE • Another traditional addition to this soup is dried kelp, which you can get from Chinese dry goods shops or Japanese supermarkets (where it will be labelled konbu or kombu). Soak 50 g (1⅔ oz) of kelp in lukewarm water for 30 minutes, then drain and cut it into • Ytohuin c satnri pasls wo iathd ds csiossmoers s. aAgdod pite taorls for a delicious textural contrast.

GREEN BEAN SOUP Serves 4–6 A classic cooling soup. Feathery fresh rue leaves (chou cao) aren’t easy to get—look for them at the herb stalls in Chinatown Complex market or in pots at plant nurseries —but they really make a difference to the taste of this sweet soup. Although rue smells cheesily pungent when fresh, it transforms in the soup, imparting a fresh, peachy aroma to it. Whole green mung beans 200 g (7 oz) 2 litres (64 fl oz / 8 cups) Fresh rue (optional) 2 sprigs Dried tangerine peel 2–3 pieces, or about half a tangerine’s worth Finely crushed 125 g (4½ oz) or to taste 1. Pick the green beans over to get rid of any grit, then wash well and 2d.r a i nD.r aCionv ebre awnist hwell, then combine with 2 litres (64 ampflle o lzu k/e w8 acrumps )w faretesrh awnadt eler ti ns oaa kla rfgoer 4p ohto. urs. Slowly bring to a boil over medium-low heat. (This will take a while, but will give the soup a better texture.) 3. Cover pot, reduce heat 4. os1tsRotic5imin cr–lrsao2miensw0i ego r rmuna geunaien lndnlauyc tn,sotl eydivums ena mrtodeirlded bu r t fenoboat erinp la asobn nteas o awrtfenhoi tsersh ora2 ftr0tae –nb 2sgu5teta rmrsitntiiinelnlg upw tteeohes o,bl lreae.nadk 5. Addowd nro. cTku rsnu goaffr haenadt swtirh eun ttilh deissolved. Serve hot coor ncsoisldte. ncy is as coarse or smooth as you like it. • Another traditional addition to this soup is dried kelp, which you can get from Chinese dry goods shops or Japanese supermarkets (where it will be labelled konbu or kombu). Soak 50 g (1⅔ oz) of kelp in lukewarm water for 30 minutes, then drain and cut it into • Ytohuin c satnri pasls wo iathd ds csiossmoers s. aAgdod pite taorls for a delicious textural contrast.





TEOCHEW DISHES

Bak Chor Mee 134 Noodles with Fish balls 136 Teochew

134 BAK CHOR MEE CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4–5 A humble dish that ascends to heaven when all its components the condiments in the sauce mix to suit your palate; the dressed sour-spicy and fragrant from the lard. If you are able to find pieces (tee poh), wipe these with damp paper towels to remo until browned and crispy to make a wonderful garnish for the Minced pork with some fat 180 g (6½ oz) Lean pork 150 g (5⅓ oz), thinly sliced Pork liver 100 g (3½ oz), well washed and thinly sliced Mee pok or mee kia 450 g (1 lb) Pork Stock Pork bones with some meat 400 g (14⅓ oz) Water 1.25 litres (40 fl oz / 5 cups) Braised Mushrooms Dried shiitake mushrooms 6 Warm water 220 ml (7⅓ fl oz) Superior light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Superior thick dark soy sauce 2 tsp Brown sugar 1½ tsp Sauce All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) 3 Tbsp or to taste Chinkiang black vinegar 3 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 2 Tbsp Fish sauce 2 tsp Liquid lard (page 32) 2 tsp 2G.r o uPnredp awreh itbera piseepdp meru ½sh rtosopm Gsa. rSnoisahke ds rieSldiced red chillmieus shoro boimrds’ si ne wyea rmch iwlliaetser for 15 minutes, Crispthye nla rddr acinu,b reess e(prvaigneg s3o2a)king water. Cut off

BAK CHOR MEE Serves 4–5 A humble dish that ascends to heaven when all its components are in balance. Adjust the condiments in the sauce mix to suit your palate; the dressed mee should be salty- sour-spicy and fragrant from the lard. If you are able to find good dried sole fish tee poh), wipe these with damp paper towels to remove dust, then deep-fry until browned and crispy to make a wonderful garnish for the mee. Minced pork with some fat 180 g (6½ oz) 150 g (5⅓ oz), thinly sliced Pork liver 100 g (3½ oz), well washed and thinly sliced Mee pok or mee kia 450 g (1 lb) Pork Pork bones with some meat 400 g (14⅓ oz) 1.25 litres (40 fl oz / 5 cups) Braised Mushrooms Dried shiitake mushrooms 6 Warm water 220 ml (7⅓ fl oz) Superior light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Superior thick dark soy sauce 2 tsp Brown sugar 1½ tsp Sauce All-purpose chilli sauce 3 Tbsp or to taste Chinkiang black vinegar 3 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 2 Tbsp 2 tsp Liquid lard (page 32) 2 tsp 2G.r o uPnredp awreh itbera piseepdp meru ½sh rtosopm Gsa. rSnoisahke ds rieSldiced red chillmieus shoro boimrds’ si ne wyea rmch iwlliaetser for 15 minutes, Crispthye nla rddr acinu,b reess e(prvaigneg s3o2a)king water. Cut off





136 DRY NOODLES WITH FISH BALLS CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 Many food stalls selling this dish no longer add lard to the sau reasons. But if you only indulge once in a while, try it the old- lard adds immeasurable flavour. If you like, you can shape h patties, deep-fry them until golden, then slice them into the no two different textures of fish balls. Mee kia or mee pok 400 g (14⅓ oz) Fish Balls Fish paste (page 108) Salt 2 tsp Lukewarm water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Sauce Light soy sauce 3 Tbsp or to taste All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) 1½ Tbsp or to taste Liquid lard (page 32) 2 tsp Dark soy sauce 1 tsp Black vinegar 1 tsp or to taste Sesame oil ½ tsp Garnishes Bean sprouts as desired, blanched for 3 seconds in boiling water and drained Salted preserved cabbage (tung chai) as desired, rinsed, patted dry and chopped Crispy 2la. r d D ciussboelvse ( psaaglte i n3 2lu)k aesw adremsi rweda tCehr oinp pae wd idcoer,iander leavsehsa l(lociwla nbtorwo)l. Lightly oil your hands. Grab as dayeo shuiarre ntddh fuCumhl oobpf apfniesddh fspoparresitfneing gi noe nro intooen fsho ar(mnscd a,a lltihoenns )c uasrl desitriegdht O shape and squeeze some paste through

DRY NOODLES WITH FISH BALLS Serves 3–4 Many food stalls selling this dish no longer add lard to the sauce mixture for health reasons. But if you only indulge once in a while, try it the old-fashioned way, as the lard adds immeasurable flavour. If you like, you can shape half the fish paste into patties, deep-fry them until golden, then slice them into the noodles, so there will be two different textures of fish balls. or mee pok 400 g (14⅓ oz) Fish Balls Fish page 108) Lukewarm water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Sauce Light soy sauce 3 Tbsp or to taste All-purpose chilli page 30) 1½ Tbsp or to taste Liquid lard (page 32) 2 tsp Dark soy sauce 1 tsp Black vinegar 1 tsp or to taste Sesame oil ½ tsp Garnishes Bean sprouts as desired, blanched for 3 seconds in boiling water and drained Salted preserved cabbage (tung chai) as desired, rinsed, patted dry and chopped Crispy 2la. r d D ciussboelvse ( psaaglte i n3 2lu)k aesw adremsi rweda tCehr oinp pae wd idcoer,iander leavsehsa l(lociwla nbtorwo)l. Lightly oil your hands. Grab as dyaeo shuiarre ntddh fuCumhl oobpf apfniesddh fspoparresitfneing gi noe nro intooen fsho ar(mnscd a,a lltihoenns )c uasrl tight O shape and squeeze some paste through