Chinese heritage cooking

82 Hainanese Chicken Curry CHINESE HERITAGEServes 4–6 Many members of Singapore’s Hainanese community entered t and service industries in the first half of the 20th century. In the who had worked in Peranakan households opened coffee shops serving their own versions of Nyonya dishes. Today, Hainanes establish their reputations on the quality of their curry gravy. Chicken 1, large, about 1.4–1.6 kg (3 lb 1⅔ oz–3 lb 9 oz), cleaned and cut into serving-size pieces Salt 1 tsp Sugar 1 tsp Cooking oil 125 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Star anise 1 whole, small Cinnamon 2 sticks Water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Local potatoes 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), peeled and halved Kaffir lime leaves (optional) 2 Coconut milk 200 ml (6¾ fl oz / ⅘ cup) Evaporated milk (optional) 3 Tbsp Potato starch 2 tsp, dissolved in 1 Tbsp water Spice Paste Dried chillies 6–10, soaked until softened, deseeded if desired Finely sliced lemon grass 2 Tbsp 2. FC i anmtPnoeodgoluylernet tadnhcr hue oaotrr snp t gdop5r eipmndeda s gktaleielnl , ga ian efdgrin dr1ee td hTpiebeansmspttse t .of o( Irtfh sueps imicnego rpataasrt eone Finbey lyo nceh oinp ptheed ogrdarelric l i1st½ed T, bpsopunding each Shinaglloretdsi e2n0t0 u gn ti(l7 f inoez) ,b epfeoerele dad adnindg cthhoep npexdt.) M3e.a t Hceuarrty o pil oinw da ewr o4k Tobvsepr 1m. e d iRuumb- hcihgihck heenat. pieWchees na hll oot,v eard dw sitphic esa plta satned, sstuagr aarn iasned a nsedt aside.

Hainanese Chicken Curry Serves 4–6 Many members of Singapore’s Hainanese community entered the food and beverage and service industries in the first half of the 20th century. In the post-war period, some who had worked in Peranakan households opened coffee shops and small restaurants serving their own versions of Nyonya dishes. Today, Hainanese curry rice stalls still establish their reputations on the quality of their curry gravy. 1, large, about 1.4–1.6 kg ⅔ oz–3 lb 9 oz), cleaned and cut into serving-size pieces Salt 1 tsp 1 tsp Cooking oil 125 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Star anise 1 whole, small Cinnamon 2 sticks 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) Local potatoes 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz), peeled and halved Kaffir lime leaves (optional) 2 Coconut milk 200 ml (6¾ fl oz / ⅘ cup) Evaporated milk (optional) 3 Tbsp Potato starch 2 tsp, dissolved in 1 Tbsp water Spice Paste Dried chillies 6–10, soaked until softened, deseeded if desired Finely sliced lemon grass 2 2. CF i antmPnoeodgoluylernet tadnhcr hue oaotrr snp t gdop5r eipmndeda s gktaleielnl , ga ian efdgrin dr1ee td hTpiebeansmspttse t .of o( Irtfh sueps imicnego rpataasrt eone Finbey lyo nceh oinp ptheed ogrdarelric l i1st½ed T, bpsopunding each ingredi e2n0t0 u gn ti(l7 f inoez) ,b epfeoerele dad adnindg cthhoep npexdt.) M3e.a t Hceuarrty o pil oinw da ewr o4k Tobvsepr 1m. e d iRuumb- hcihgihck heenat. pieWchees na hll oot,v eard dw sitphic esa plta satned, sstuagr aarn iasned a nsedt aside.





84 HAINANESE CHINESE HERITAGEPORK CHOPS Serves 4 In colonial Singapore, many Hainanese cooks worked as chefs private homes of Western officials. The Anglicised restaurant a now call “Western food” largely evolved from these roots. The dish was likely seasoned with very British condiments su Worcestershire sauce. Versions that add tomato ketchup to the common nowadays. Boneless pork chops 450 g (1 lb) Cornflour (cornstarch) 2 Tbsp Eggs 2, well beaten Cream crackers 20, crushed into fine crumbs Cooking oil for deep-frying Potatoes 2, peeled, halved and cut into 1-cm (½-in) thick slices Onion 1, peeled and sliced Frozen peas 150 g (5⅓ oz), thawed Sauce Water or light stock (page 33) 150 ml (5 fl oz) Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp 2H.P sSaauncdew 1ic hTb psoprk chops between 2 sheets of plastic wrap, then pound lightly with a 3W. o rmDceuessattet prmsohrakilr leec hts ooapru scr oeel vl¾ienn gtl sypp iwn iuthn tcilo rmnfelaotu ri sa bnadr elelyt s1i-t Sugacfomrr 1 1( ½ tms-pin)u tteh.i cDki.p pork chops in 4C.o r nbpHfeeoloaarkutt erco nh(i lco eoipngrs gn a,ss tttwaahnroecdknh )fuco on1rat i1ttls 0iwpt misthhini mcurtmaecsek refsor racnrudm ab lsi.g hLet t Salt hc traouz meta bfso tcerom a1st. ot o v Mesrei xti tl.ie nG.gerendtliye nlotsw feorr psoarukce together and csheotp as siindteo. hot oil and deep-fry for 4–5 minutes until golden brown, turning once. 5. FDrrya iinn ablal tbcuhte s3 iTf bnsepc eosils afrroy.m D ow onko.t Rcerohweadt woiol ka.nd

HAINANESE PORK CHOPS In colonial Singapore, many Hainanese cooks worked as chefs in hotels, clubs or the private homes of Western officials. The Anglicised restaurant and hawker dishes we now call “Western food” largely evolved from these roots. The original version of this dish was likely seasoned with very British condiments such as HP sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Versions that add tomato ketchup to the sauce mix are more common nowadays. Boneless pork chops 450 g (1 lb) Cornflour (cornstarch) 2 Tbsp 2, well beaten Cream crackers 20, crushed into fine crumbs Cooking oil for deep-frying Potatoes 2, peeled, halved and cut into 1-cm (½-in) thick slices Onion 1, peeled and sliced Frozen peas 150 g (5⅓ oz), thawed Sauce Water or light stock (page 33) 150 ml (5 fl oz) Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp 2. Sandw 1ic hTb psoprk chops between 2 sheets of plastic wrap, then pound lightly with a 3W. o rmDceuessattet prmsohrakilr leec hts ooapru scr oeel vl¾ienn gtl sypp iwn iuthn tcilo rmnfelaotu ri sa bnadr elelyt s1i-t cfomr 1 1( ½ tms-pin)u tteh.i cDki.p pork chops in 4C.o r npbHfeeoloaarkutt erco nh(i lco eoipngrs gn a,ss tttwaahnroecdknh )fuco on1rat i1ttls 0iwpt misthhini mcurtmaecsek refsor racnrudm ab lsi.g hLet t hc traouz meta bfso tcerom a1st. ot o v Mesrei xti tl.ie nG.gerendtliye nlotsw feorr psoarukce together and csheotp as siindteo. hot oil and deep-fry for 4–5 minutes until golden brown, turning once. 5. FDrrya iinn ablal tbcuhte s3 iTf bnsepc eosils afrroy.m D ow onko.t Rcerohweadt woiol ka.nd





86 HAINANESE CHINESE HERITAGEMUTTON SOUP Serves 5–6 On Hainan Island, this dish is traditionally enjoyed during the co its tonic and warming properties. The authentic Hainanese rec from young animals of the Dongshan goat breed, is a pale, lifestyle of these agile mountain-living goats is thought to endo amounts of collagen and protein. As the mutton available in tasting and more likely to come from sheep rather than goats soup have evolved to use heavier seasonings and more herbs t nCouoaknicnegs .o Tihl 1is Trbescpipe is closer to the Hainan original. Ginger 3 slices, bruised Garlic 1 clove, halved Red dates 10 Chinese angelica (dong kwai) 3 small fragments White peppercorns ½ tsp Fresh sugar cane 2 lengths, each about 12-cm (5-in), washed Black fungus 15 g (½ oz) Dried bean curd sheets 40 g (1½ oz) Chinese wolfberries (kei chi) 2 Tbsp Salt to taste Meat Young goat or spring lamb meat 800 g (1¾ lb) Mashed white fermented bean curd (foo yee) 1½ Tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 2 Tbsp Light soy sauce 2 tsp Sugar 1 tsp Broth Goat or lamb bones 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz)

HAINANESE MUTTON SOUP On Hainan Island, this dish is traditionally enjoyed during the colder winter months for its tonic and warming properties. The authentic Hainanese recipe, made with meat from young animals of the Dongshan goat breed, is a pale, milky hue—the active lifestyle of these agile mountain-living goats is thought to endow their meat with rich amounts of collagen and protein. As the mutton available in Singapore is stronger- tasting and more likely to come from sheep rather than goats, local versions of this soup have evolved to use heavier seasonings and more herbs to cover up any gamey nCouoaknicnegs .o Tihl 1is Trbescpipe is closer to the Hainan original. 3 slices, bruised 1 clove, halved 10 Chinese angelica (dong kwai) 3 small fragments White peppercorns ½ tsp Fresh sugar 2 lengths, each about 12-cm (5-in), washed Black fungus 15 g (½ oz) Dried bean curd sheets 40 g (1½ oz) Chinese wolfberries (kei chi) 2 Tbsp to taste Meat Young goat or spring lamb 800 g (1¾ lb) Mashed white fermented bean foo yee) 1½ Tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 2 Tbsp Light soy sauce 2 tsp 1 tsp Broth Goat or lamb bones 500 g (1 lb

87 1. Start preparations for meat a day ahead. Cut goat or lamb meat into large chunks, about 4-cm (1½-in) across. Trim off any fat. Wash meat well with lightly salted 2. wMatkeer, btrhoetnh . dWraainsh. Cboomnebsin aen md edarat iwn. itBhr ifnegr ma epnotte dof wbeaatne r ctuor da, brioceil waninde b, llaignhcht sbooynes fsoaru c5e m ainndu tseusg, atrh ean dd rmainx. wCoemll. bCinoeve br oanneds lweaitvhe 3to mlitraersin (a9te6 oflv oezrn /ig 1h2t, creufprsig) efraetsehd. 3. wSeatt ear wino ka oclveearn m peodt.i uBmri nhge atot. aW bhoeiln, cwoovke ri sp ovet,ry hleoatv, inswg ilrild i ns liogihl,t layd adj agri,n lgoewr esrl icheesa,t and stimir-mfrye rf ofro r2 01 ½se hconurdss.. Add marinated meat and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes until cooked on the outside but not browned. Transfer 4. mSoeaakt btola cpko tf uonfg suims imn eteripnigd bwroathe.r until softened, tAhdedn rderda idna atensd, Ctrhimin eosfef anyg ehliacrad, peppercorns and sbuitgsa. rS ocank ed. rCieodv ebre and c usirmd msheerets likewise until 5. soAovdfedtre bnvleadrcy,k tlfhouewnng hudesra, tibn fe oarn 2d c uhcurodtu risnsh.teoets and 5w-oclmfb e(2rr-iiens) tpoi escoeusp. and simmer for 30–45 minutes longer until fungus is soft and tender. Season soup to taste with NOTsaElt and serve hot. • Gourmet supermarkets and butchers may occasionally carry young goat meat, the most suitable kind of meat for this soup. Failing this, pale pink spring lamb is the most appropriate. Leg, shoulder, breast and neck of lamb are all suitable. Goat meat sold at wet markets may be from older animals and more gamey in taste; sheep mutton will • Wreestu mlt ianr kae ht evaevgye, toaiblyle s ostuapll.s sell fresh sugar cane for Chinese soups. ILfa ymobu criabns’ at rfein fdin ite, faodrd the broth. If you can’t get good goat or lamb b1o Tnbessp, ruaswe spuogrka rs otoft t bhoen bersoth instead. • Tinhset eqauda notri tayl toefr nbalatcivke fluyn 3g cuhsi caknedn d craierdca bseseasn. curd sheets may be adjusted as desired. The black fungus makes the soup taste less oily. Use the thicker, opaque, crumpled-looking type of dried • Ibf eyaonu cpurerdfe srh ae estrso, nags ethr ehseerb saola fkla uvpo uar ,l oatd odf sfolamvoeu orr f arollm o ft hthee ssoeup. herbs to taste in step 3

. Start preparations for meat a day ahead. Cut goat or lamb meat into large chunks, about 4-cm (1½-in) across. Trim off any fat. Wash meat well with lightly salted . wMatkeer, btrhoetnh . dWraainsh. Cboomnebsin aen md edarat iwn. itBhr ifnegr ma epnotte dof wbeaatne r ctuor da, brioceil waninde b, llaignhcht sbooynes fsoaru c5e m ainndu tseusg, atrh ean dd rmainx. wCoemll. bCinoeve br oanneds lweaitvhe 3to lmitraersin (a9te6 oflv oezrn /ig 1h2t, creufprsig) efraetsehd. . wSeatt ear wino ka oclveearn m peodt.i uBmri nhge atot. aW bhoeiln, cwoovke ri sp ovet,ry hleoatv, inswg ilrild i ns liogihl,t layd adj agri,n lgoewr esrl icheesa,t and stimir-mfrye rf ofro r2 01 ½se hconurdss.. Add marinated meat and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes until cooked on the outside but not browned. Transfer . mSoeaakt btola cpko tf uonfg suims imn eteripnigd bwroathe.r until softened, tAhdedn rderda idna atensd, Ctrhimin eosfef anyg ehliacrad, peppercorns and sbuitgsa. rS ocank ed. rCieodv ebre and c usirmd msheerets likewise until . soAovdfedtre bnvleadrcy,k tlfhouewnng hudesra, tibn fe oarn 2d c uhcurodtu risnsh.teoets and 5w-oclmfb e(2rr-iiens) tpoi escoeusp. and simmer for 30–45 minutes longer until fungus is soft and tender. Season soup to taste with salt and serve hot. • Gourmet supermarkets and butchers may occasionally carry young goat meat, the most suitable kind of meat for this soup. Failing this, pale pink spring lamb is the most appropriate. Leg, shoulder, breast and neck of lamb are all suitable. Goat meat sold at wet markets may be from older animals and more gamey in taste; sheep mutton will • Wreestu mlt ianr kae ht evaevgye, toaiblyle s ostuapll.s sell fresh sugar cane for Chinese soups. LIfa ymobu criabns’ at rfein fdin ite, faodrd the broth. If you can’t get good goat or lamb b1o Tnbessp, ruaswe spuogrka rs otoft t bhoen bersoth instead. • Tinhset eqauda notri tayl toefr nbalatcivke fluyn 3g cuhsi caknedn d craierdca bseseasn. curd sheets may be adjusted as desired. The black fungus makes the soup taste less oily. Use the thicker, opaque, crumpled-looking type of dried • Ibf eyaonu cpurerdfe srh ae estrso, nags ethr ehseerb saola fkla uvpo uar ,l oatd odf sfolamvoeu orr f arollm o ft hthee ssoeup. herbs to taste in step 3







90 YI BUAH CHINESE HERITAGE Makes 10 pieces This traditional Hainanese sweetmeat is made and enjoyed on happy occasions such as birthdays and baby’s first month celebrations. Like many Chinese snacks destined for auspicious events, it is decorated with a red dot. Yi buah are made in a few different shapes—round, squarish and pyramidal. There is also a related confection called art buah for which discs of plain dough are steamed or poached and then rolled in the filling mixture. Like yi buah and many other traditional Hainanese cakes, art buah is rarely available commercially today. Banana leaves as needed Red food colouring as needed Filling Ginger 70 g (2½ oz) Water 2 Tbsp Finely chopped palm sugar (gula melaka) or brown sugar 140 g (5 oz) Castor sugar 2 Tbsp Grated skinned coconut 250 g (9 oz) Toasted white sesame seeds 1 Tbsp Chopped roasted peanuts 2 Tbsp Dough Glutinous rice flour 225 g (8 oz) Tapioca starch 20 g (⅔ oz) + more for shaping Rice flour 15 g (½ oz) Sugar 2 tsp Fine salt ¼ tsp 2B.o i liRnegt uwrna tseyr u2p0 0to ma l c(le6a¾n fpl aonz a/n d⅘ s ticru ipn) grated Cookccooinccgoo nnouuittl . 2hC aotsso pak bfsoor rb7e–8d malli ntuhtee ss,y srutiprr ianngd, ufonrtmil ed Coldm woiaste crl u2m Tpbs pa n1d. th Perreep iasr en of ilflrieneg . liPqeueidl and 3fi.n e lcsvPyotir asemgirbpcrplaahelrt e.eea tT nedrgdlaoyi nn,ur gsibgcfeeehrfr ,.o fSfltroihielfluet in rsn gtg ilnr surttqitooniun geaao e uibbnzsoeo tw wrhitcolel e, a soanfenbldostd uaa lermiw,n t tehacaiopsbkoioolucta 50 ml (su1en⅔etidl fswl aoenzlld) m piexaendu. tSst. irK eseugpa cro avnedre sda lutn itnilt on ebeodileindg.

90 YI BUAH CHINESE HERITAGE Makes 10 pieces This traditional Hainanese sweetmeat is made and enjoyed on happy occasions such as birthdays and baby’s first month celebrations. Like many Chinese snacks destined for auspicious events, it is decorated with a red dot. Yi buah are made in a few different shapes—round, squarish and pyramidal. There is also a related confection called art buah for which discs of plain dough are steamed or poached and then rolled in the filling mixture. Like yi buah and many other traditional Hainanese cakes, art buah is rarely available commercially today. Banana leaves as needed Red food colouring as needed Filling Ginger 70 g (2½ oz) Water 2 Tbsp Finely chopped palm sugar (gula melaka) or brown sugar 140 g (5 oz) Castor sugar 2 Tbsp Grated skinned coconut 250 g (9 oz) Toasted white sesame seeds 1 Tbsp Chopped roasted peanuts 2 Tbsp Dough Glutinous rice flour 225 g (8 oz) Tapioca starch 20 g (⅔ oz) + more for shaping Rice flour 15 g (½ oz) Sugar 2 tsp Fine salt ¼ tsp 2B.o i liRnegt uwrna tseyr u2p0 0to ma l c(le6a¾n fpl aonz a/n d⅘ s ticru ipn) grated Cookccooinccgoo nnouuittl . 2hC aotsso pak bfsoor rb7e–8d malli ntuhtee ss,y srutiprr ianngd, ufonrtmil ed Coldm woiaste crl u2m Tpbs pa n1d. th Perreep iasr en of ilflrieneg . liPqeueidl and 3fi.n e lcsvPyotir asemgirbpcrplaahelrt e.eea tT nedrgdlaoyi nn,ur gsibgcfeeehrfr ,.o fSfltroihielfluet in rsn gtg ilnr surttqitooniun geaao e uibbnzsoeo tw wrhitcolel e, a soanfenbldostd uaa lermiw,n t tehacaiopsbkoioolucta 50 ml (su1en⅔etidl fswl aoenzlld) m piexaendu. tSst. irK eseugpa cro avnedre sda lutn itnilt on ebeodileindg.





92 Hainanese Kaya Makes about 425 chinese heritage ml (14 fl oz) kaya A staple in any coffee shop, to be served on toast or steamed bread with thin slabs of butter. Tinted a lustrous brownEggs 5 Egg yolks from 3 eggs Coconut cream or thick wcocoinutt mhilk caramelised sugar and140 ml (4⅔ fl oz) Syrup Castor sugar 210 g (7½ oz) rWaetern 150d ml e(5 rfl oez) d smooth by constantSalt ⅛ tsp Pandan leaves 4, washed and stirring, this kayacut into small pieces 1. Prepare syrup. In a heavy- based pan, combine 60 g (2¼ oz) of the sugar with i2s Tb ssp owf eeter and softer than thethe water. Cook over medium heat, swirling the pan more egg-richinstead of stirring, until sugar melts Nyonya kaya fromand forms an amber caramel. Do not let it get too dark. Add remaining water to the which it probablypan–it will bubble up. When the bubbling has died descends;2d.o w mCno,i mlka bdinidn eare emmgiagxiisnn, igne ggb gos wuygol.al kSr,st israa nwltd i tachno daco wnuhti sckream or Hainanese cooks3p.a n duAandntdi l lwesmaavromeos t. hsCy.oruvpe rt oa nedg gs immmixteurr eg eanntdly s tuirn tuiln tsiul gar may have learnt,has wfuellyl bdleisnsdoelvde.d S. trSatrina inm mixtiuxrteu rethrough a and subsequently4in. t o wpfSiaeoni tttebh .-po maow te sl,sop hvpa etrsueri elsavsv,eie nrs ygpin olotooonwn a to hhcreel e awpat hanain,sn dkwda, insdst ceilrr,ea achpoveinneagssvt yat-onbtalysed





HAKKA & FOOCHOW DISHES



Red 96 Wine 98 BraisedLees 100 PCohrickkeAnbacus 102 wiHthakkaBeads 104 MuRiFoicoechow 108 ChoWy ine Fish

96 RED WINE LEES CHICKEN chinese heritage Serves 4–5 This typical Foochow delicacy is called hong jao zi coloured dish is flavoured with thick, aromatic fermented red be purchased from Chinese stores and some supermarkets. chicken (page 98), this braised dish is commonly prepared mothers during the confinement period after childbirth. Cooking oil 2–3 Tbsp Garlic 4 cloves, peeled and chopped Ginger 5-cm (2- in) knob, peeled and shredded Red rice wine lees (page 35) 1–2 Tbsp Chicken 1, small, about 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz), cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces Water 250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) Sesame oil ¾ tsp Salt to taste Sugar to taste 1. Heat oil in a wok over medium- high heat. Fry garlic and ginger until fragrant, then add red rice wine lees and fry for about 1 2m. i n uAtded mchoircek,e unn ptiile cpeass taen ids tforassg rfaonrt .45 seconds, until 3. wAdedll wcoaatteer,d bwrinitgh tpoa sat eb.oil, reduce heat to low and cover. Leave to simmer gently 4. fSoera 3so5n–4 w0 itmh inseusteasm, eu notiill, cshailctk aennd i ss ucgoaork, eadd jaunsdting 5. tsDeeinsahds oeonr.uint ga ntod tsaesrtvee. hot with rice. NOTE • Bottled red wine lees can be found at Chinese dry goods stores and some supermarkets.

RED WINE LEES CHICKEN Serves 4–5 This typical Foochow delicacy is called hong jao zi in Mandarin. The rich, red coloured dish is flavoured with thick, aromatic fermented red wine lees, which can be purchased from Chinese stores and some supermarkets. Like Hakka rice wine page 98), this braised dish is commonly prepared for consumption by mothers during the confinement period after childbirth. Cooking oil 2–3 Tbsp 4 cloves, peeled and chopped Ginger 5-cm (2- in) knob, peeled and Red rice wine lees (page 35) 1–2 Tbsp 1, small, about 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz), cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces Water 250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) Sesame oil ¾ tsp to taste to taste 1. Heat oil in a wok over medium- high heat. Fry garlic and ginger until fragrant, then add red rice wine lees and fry for about 1 2m. i n uAtded mchoircek,e unn ptiile cpeass taen ids tforassg rfaonrt .45 seconds, until 3. wAdedll wcoaatteer,d bwrinitgh tpoa sat eb.oil, reduce heat to low and cover. Leave to simmer gently 4. fSoera 3so5n–4 w0 itmh inseusteasm, eu notiill, cshailctk aennd i ss ucgoaork, eadd jaunsdting 5. sDeisahs oonuint ga ntod tsaesrtvee. hot with rice. • Bottled red wine lees can be found at Chinese dry goods stores and some supermarkets.





98 HAKKA RICE WINE CHICKEN chinese heritage Serves 4–5 This simple yet potent dish is redolent of sweet Chinese w aromatic ginger. Hakka women often eat this during the conf natal care after childbirth) as the wine warms the body and the dispel wind from the body and prevent aches and pains later wine added can be adjusted depending on your taste preference Ginger 100 g (3½ oz), peeled and sliced Chicken 1, small, about 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz), cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces Sesame oil 3– 4 Tbsp White rice wine 250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) Water as needed Home-made yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34) 375 ml (12 fl oz / 1½ cups) 1. Using a mortar and pestle, pound ginger slices to a paste, then squeeze out as much 2ju. ic eH efraotm o ilt hine ap wasotek oavs eyr omu ecdaiunm. R-heisgehr vhee atht.e A gdidnger ginger pulp and stir-fry for about 3p.u lp 1A admndd inc huruitcebk eujnun itcpile ie fracaelgls r oaavnnetd.r scthiri-cfkrye nfor 4–5 minutes, 4p.i e c ueAnsd.td ilC wothvheiytre a rrniecde b lrweotiw ncenh eiacdnk edon nb rmainlla gsr itndoae tsae. ,b oreilf.r iTgrearnastfeedr, for 2co0n mteinntus teosf .wok to a pot and add 5. eConvoeurg hp owt awteitrh t oa cliodv aenr dc hbicriknegn .to a boil. Turn heat to low and simmer for about 6. 2A0d dm hinoumtees-.made yellow glutinous rice wine and continue to simmer for another

HAKKA RICE WINE CHICKEN Serves 4–5 This simple yet potent dish is redolent of sweet Chinese wine, sesame oil and aromatic ginger. Hakka women often eat this during the confinement period (post- natal care after childbirth) as the wine warms the body and the ginger is said to help dispel wind from the body and prevent aches and pains later in life. The quantity of wine added can be adjusted depending on your taste preference. 100 g (3½ oz), peeled and sliced Chicken 1, small, about 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz), cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces Sesame oil 3– White rice wine 250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) as needed Home-made yellow glutinous rice 375 ml (12 fl oz / 1½ cups) 1. Using a mortar and pestle, pound ginger slices to a paste, then squeeze out as much 2ju. ic eH efraotm o ilt hine ap wasotek oavs eyr omu ecdaiunm. R-heisgehr vhee atht.e A gdidnger ginger pulp and stir-fry for about 3p.u lp 1A admndd inc huruitcebk eujnun itcpile ie fracaelgls r oaavnnetd.r scthiri-cfkrye nfor 4–5 minutes, 4p.i e c ueAnsd.td ilC wothvheiytre a rrniecde b lrweotiw ncenh eiacdnk edon nb rmainlla gsr itndoae tsae. ,b oreilf.r iTgrearnastfeedr, for 2co0n mteinntus teosf .wok to a pot and add 5. eConvoeurg hp owt awteitrh t oa cliodv aenr dc hbicriknegn .to a boil. Turn heat to low and simmer for about 6. 2A0d dm hinoumtees-.made yellow glutinous rice wine and continue to simmer for another





100 BRAISED PORK WITH MUICHOY chinese heritage Serves 4–5 There are two things that Hakka cuisine is indisputably famou the use of preserved and pickled ingredients. This rich and comf both. Combining both sweet and salty kinds of preserved musta yields a more balanced flavour. You can use pork shoulder for the depth of flavour will not be quite the same. This dish taste cooking. Sweet preserved mustard cabbage (teem mui choy) 200 g (7 oz) Salty preserved mustard cabbage (harm mui choy) 200 g (7 oz) Pork belly 600 g (1 lb 5⅓ oz) Cooking oil 1 Tbsp Garlic 4 cloves, peeled and chopped Ginger 3 slices Sugar 1 Tbsp Home-made yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34) 4 Tbsp Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp Sesame oil ½ tsp 2. W Saette ra 5d0ry0 nmoln -(s1t6ic kfl poazn /o v2e rc umpes)d i1u.m hSeoaatk. Wswheeent anhdo ts, aaltdyd pbroetshe rsvwede emt aunstda rsda lctyabbage in separate 3. b2C ha–sputSpCh3soteunrliaie epratnthtr si resilpseo n i n apcorugoaavtmor fonkebsr c dek .wdob sb n aDmssdaemgstertrlrtaaeleytuiay pilr nls na nl sito fstns oaolaoiotytdrnrrnokdn ie-pdsf so.s csa tatr.arilr cli bi n4klpsibs– tsitpe5da laea g emwnb esd o eiiortnunilovelut, e rtp.2etr ah -Tsmcnream nena dnss(fidq¾ue umrd- eitrn eoyh)z- eefawra ytdi,d,rey. until pork is lightly browned. It will 4. nSeott ab ela crogoek celde atnh rpooutg ho.v eLer tm peodrkiu cmo ohl efaotr. aA dfedw oil manidn ustteirs-,f rtyh egna rslilcic aen sdt rgipins gaecrr ofsosr into 5. 1lAa–dr2gd e ms buingituaetr-e sasizn, edu npgtileiul ctseionsfo.tuesn eridc ea nwdi nfera ganradn ts.tir-fry for a few seconds, until wine has

BRAISED PORK WITH MUICHOY Serves 4–5 There are two things that Hakka cuisine is indisputably famous for: pork dishes and the use of preserved and pickled ingredients. This rich and comforting stew showcases both. Combining both sweet and salty kinds of preserved mustard cabbage (mui choy) yields a more balanced flavour. You can use pork shoulder for a less fatty result, but the depth of flavour will not be quite the same. This dish tastes better the day after Sweet preserved mustard cabbage teem mui choy) 200 g (7 oz) Salty preserved mustard cabbage harm mui choy) 200 g (7 oz) Pork belly 600 g ⅓ oz) Cooking oil 1 Tbsp 4 cloves, peeled and chopped 3 slices Sugar 1 Tbsp Home-made yellow glutinous rice wine page 34) 4 Tbsp Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp Sesame oil ½ tsp 2. Set a 5d0ry0 nmoln -(s1t6ic kfl poazn /o v2e rc umpes)d i1u.m hSeoaatk. Wswheeent anhdo ts, aaltdyd pbroetshe rsvwede emt aunstda rsda lctyabbage in separate 3. b2C ha–stSpupCh3soteunrliaie epratnthtr si resilpseo n i n apcorugoaavtmor fonkebsr c dek .wodb sb n aDmssdaemgstertrlrtaaeleytuiay pilr nls na nl sito fstns oaolaoiotytdrnrrnokdn ie-pdsf so.s csa tatr.arilr cli bi n4klpsibs– tsitpe5da laea g emwnb esd o eiiortnunilovelut, e rtp.2etr ah -Tsmcnream nena dnss(fidq¾ue umrd- eitrn eoyh)z- eefawra ytdi,d,rey. until pork is lightly browned. It will 4. nSeott ab ela crogoek celde atnh rpooutg ho.v eLer tm peodrkiu cmo ohl efaotr. aA dfedw oil amnidn ustteirs-,f rtyh egna rslilcic aen sdt rgipins gaecrr ofsosr into 5. 1lAa–dr2gd e ms buingituaetr-e sasizn, edu npgtileiul ctseionsfo.tuesn eridc ea nwdi nfera ganradn ts.tir-fry for a few seconds, until wine has





102 YONG TAU FOO chinese heritage Serves 4–6 Different styles of yong tau foo are available in Singapore. T popular type, often found in hawker centres and food courts stuffed into various kinds of bean curd and fresh vegetables chillies and aubergines (eggplants/ brinjals), which are poache broth. Traditional Hakka yong tau foo is stuffed with a mixtur fish, then deep-fried and braised. Some recipes for the filling in added flavour dimension. Firm bean curd (tau kwa) 6 pieces Cooking oil for frying Water 375 ml (12 fl oz / 1½ cups) Spring onion (scallion) 1, chopped Meat Paste Dried prawns (shrimps) 1 Tbsp Pork belly 400 g (14⅓ oz) Mackerel fillets 200 g (7 oz) Finely chopped shallots 1 Tbsp Garlic 3 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Salt to taste Ground white pepper to taste 2C.h in Perseep arriece m weiante p 1a sTteb.s pSoak dried prawns in Lighltu kseowy asramu cwe a1t eTrb fsopr 15 minutes, then drain, Cornapfnalotd u ddrr iys( ccaaonrrddn socthra orscpahv )fei n2 fe otlrys .p a SnSlioacteuh ceoerf fuO psyeos.rt keD rbi ceselalyu csek i2n Tbspp oCrokr nbfelollyu rw (ictohr nas ctaleracvhe) r,2 thtsepn, musiex erde pweaitthed 2 Tbccshhpoo ppwppaiinnteggr mb1o.o at ri doC.n uRst eteoma omchvi enb cseeka iinnt ccaounarddr s besoqlynu eaosrn e f rtiohnme half 3d.i a g mWonaitachlk lyea retsoml fgailellet tss1h,2a t rhptre iknan digfielce,e s s flilnte satho ptaaonlc.d kS emet tia nalcosenidge .the ilto ning ethste ssidaem oef weayc.h C boemabni nceu rdm itnricaendg lpeo. rk and Efinshsu irne ap obcokwetl, itsh leanrg aed edn doruiegdh ptora swtunfsf, but do not schuta ltloots daenedp gianrtloic baenadn mcuixrd e ovre riyt thing thoroughly. 4. AmHedaadyt sboarilet ,ai nkp .ea W plpaiterhgr, e ar i wcteoa kws poinoveo,nr l,mi gshceotd oisupom ys-ohmigeh mheeaatt.

YONG TAU FOO Different styles of yong tau foo are available in Singapore. The simplest and most popular type, often found in hawker centres and food courts, has white fish paste stuffed into various kinds of bean curd and fresh vegetables such as bitter gourd, chillies and aubergines (eggplants/ brinjals), which are poached and eaten dry or in broth. Traditional Hakka yong tau foo is stuffed with a mixture of minced pork and fish, then deep-fried and braised. Some recipes for the filling include salted fish for an added flavour dimension. Firm bean curd (tau kwa) 6 pieces Cooking oil for frying 375 ml (12 fl oz / 1½ cups) Spring onion (scallion) 1, chopped Meat Paste Dried prawns (shrimps) 1 Tbsp 400 g (14⅓ oz) Mackerel fillets 200 g (7 oz) Finely chopped shallots 1 Tbsp Garlic 3 cloves, peeled and finely chopped to taste Ground white pepper to taste 2C.h in Perseep arriece m weiante p 1a sTteb.s pSoak dried prawns in Lighltu kseowy asramu cwe a1t eTrb fsopr 15 minutes, then drain, Cornpafnalotd u ddrr iys( ccaaonrrddn socthra orscpahv )fei n2 fe otlrys .p a SnSlioacteuh ceoerf fuO psyeos.rt keD rbi ceselalyu csek i2n poCrokr nbfelollyu rw (ictohr nas ctaleracvhe) r,2 thtsepn, musiex erde pweaitthed 2 Tbccshhpoo ppwppaiinnteggr mb1o.o at ri doC.n uRst eteoma omchvi enb cseeka iinnt ccaounarddr s besoqlynu eaosrn e f rtiohnme half 3d.i a g mWonaitachlk lyea retsoml fgailellet tss1h,2a t rhptre iknan digfielce,e s s flilnte satho ptaaonlc.d kS emet tia nalcosenidge .the ilto ning ethste ssidaem oef weayc.h C boemabni nceu rdm itnricaendg lpeo. rk and Efinshsu irne ap obcokwetl, itsh leanrg aed edn doruiegdh ptora swtunfsf, but do not cshuta ltloots daenedp gianrtloic baenadn mcuixrd e ovre riyt thing thoroughly. 4. mAHedaadyt sboarilet ,ai nkp .ea W plpaiterhgr, e ar i wcteoa kws poinoveo,nr l,mi gshceotd oisupom ys-ohmigeh mheeaatt.





104 ABACUS BEADS chinese heritage Serves 6–8 Also known as suan pan zi in Chinese, these dimpled doppelgä beads in a Chinese abacus are an emblematic Hakka specialty. Chinese New Year for both family meals and offerings, but round, these abacus beads have a unique fudgy-soft-chew combination of mashed taro and tapioca starch. When buying very fresh and firm as old or poor-quality taro may make the in texture. Mature taro that is already quite starchy will nee Ppoerkh a1p5s0 h ga lf( 5t⅓he omz)ashed taro’s weight in tapioca starch, instead Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp Dried shiitake mushrooms 8 Dried cuttlefish 80 g (2⅘ oz) Dried prawns (shrimps) 2 Tbsp Cooking oil 2 Tbsp Shallots 2, peeled and finely chopped Garlic 3 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Abacus Beads Taro 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Tapioca starch as needed Salt ½ tsp Sugar ¾ tsp Ground white pepper ½ tsp Cooking oil for kneading Sauce Light stock (page 33) or water 150 ml (5 fl oz) Light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Fish sauce 1 Tbsp Sugar 1 tsp

ABACUS BEADS Also known as suan pan zi in Chinese, these dimpled doppelgängers for the clacking beads in a Chinese abacus are an emblematic Hakka specialty. Originally prepared at Chinese New Year for both family meals and offerings, but now enjoyed all year round, these abacus beads have a unique fudgy-soft-chewy texture from the combination of mashed taro and tapioca starch. When buying taro, make sure it is very fresh and firm as old or poor-quality taro may make the beads mealy or fragile in texture. Mature taro that is already quite starchy will need less added starch— perh a1p5s0 h ga lf( 5t⅓he omz)ashed taro’s weight in tapioca starch, instead of two-thirds. Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp Dried shiitake mushrooms 8 Dried cuttlefish 80 g (2⅘ oz) Dried prawns (shrimps) 2 Tbsp Cooking oil 2 Tbsp 2, peeled and finely chopped 3 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Abacus Taro 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Tapioca starch as needed ¾ tsp Ground white pepper ½ tsp Cooking oil for kneading Sauce Light stock (page ) or water 150 ml (5 fl oz) Light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp





106 chinese heritage 1. Prepare abacus beads. Wash taro and peel skin. Slice taro across into 3-cm (1-in) thick rounds. Place rounds on a steamer tray in a single 2. lTaryaenrs faenr ds tsetaemamed o tvaeror htoig ha hlaeragte fomrixing bowl and w15h–i2le0 smtililn huotet,s munatsihl twenitdhe ra twhroooudgehnout. 3. upgWn ee(st1iitlg1l eht a,o rtpzoa)o r otiasa n tmsodm am4so0hoa0.ts h Yhg.oe ur( 1 os4hr⅓ oau ohldze )ah vmayva ebs hab.lelotowne ewnh i3s0k0 Measure out tapioca starch that is two-thirds the 4. wWeitihg hat loafr gteh ew toaorod emna sspho aond o ar dsdp attoula, work etavreor ymthaisnhg wtoigthe tshaeltr, tsou gmaar kaen da fpirempp deor.ugh the consistency of plasticine. If it seems too dry, add a little water as needed. When it 5. hPainsc hco oflfe d2 tboa lwlsa ormf d, oturgnh it hoeu ts iozen tof asnm oaillle pdlums asunrdfa fcleat taennd tkhneema di nito w pitahtt ioeisle. dD rhoapnds to thheelpm i ti nstmo oao pthoet no fo ubto.iling water and cook for about 2 minutes or until patties are 6. tDraivnidsleu cdeonutg. hS cionotop bthaellms t hoeu ts oizfe t hoef lwaragtee rg aranpdes. Rstoralli gthet maw baeyt,w weheinle otihleedy haaren dhso to, kmneaakde them ebvaeckn .i n(Itfo dtohueg mh acirna cdkos,u gknhe uandt ibl othilienyg hwavaeter idnistop edroseudg.h T1h eT bdsopu gath aw tiilml fee euln stmil oito itsher. 7. sBmrinogo tah leanrgoeu gpho tn oft ltiog hctrlayc ksa.)l tFelda twteant eera ctoh tbhaell sbloigilh. tSlyli pa nind adbeanctu ist sb ceeandtsr.e T wheityh wthilel stinpk o. f aW hcheonp tshtiecyk .float to the surface of the water, leave them to cook for another 20 seconds, 8. tChoemnb liinfte t haell msa ouucet winigthre ad ieslnottst eidn sap booown la anndd set 19.0 . StbpalSorosleoainaicatndgke.dse. f sd.peM rolrii iekrxtkedo ww inmaiit tsoubhe so ,th rwhiircniolen ob o wsmafh ticscrnoe heiodne ls sa w wnatdoaba rotsmaeuevrt. to w C4iadoa-s coticdemkrero a.wf(ol1ld r½ tinh3-ge0in t)he minutes, then rinse, pat dry and slice very thinly with a sharp knife. Soak dried cuttlefish in lukewarm water for 20 minutes or until pliable, then cut in half lengthwise, removing 11. Hbeoanty o cile nint ra l wstorikp ,o tvheer nm ceudt iuflmes-hh iignhto heat. Add 3sh-camllo t(s1 -ain)d lognargli cs liavnedrs s wtiri-tfhry k fiotcrh 1e nm sicniussteors. uSonatikl sdorfietedn epdra wannds firna glurakenwt. aArdmd wcuattteler fish and





108 FOOCHOW FISH BALLS chinese heritage Makes 15–18 large fish balls Fuzhou is famous for its culinary specialty yu wan, otherwise known as fish balls. Squeezed into shape from firm white fish meat minced and beaten into a springy, fluffy paste, yu wan may be plain or stuffed with different fillings made of contrasting ingredients—pork, prawns (shrimps), other kinds of fish—and served simply in a clear broth or threaded on skewers. In Singapore, the pork-stuffed kind are the most familiar at Foochow eateries. Cook them gently and do not over-boil them to ensure they remain juicy inside and out. Fish Paste Fish meat (see Note) 375 g (13⅖ oz), cut into small scraps and chunks Salt ¾ tsp Egg white 1½ Tbsp Ice-cold water 120 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Potato starch 2 Tbsp Tapioca starch 1 Tbsp Filling Minced pork 100 g Light soy sauce ½ tsp Sesame oil ¼ tsp Sugar ¼ tsp Potato starch ½ tsp Salted Water Salt 2 tsp Lukewarm water 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups)