Chinese heritage cooking

BASIC RECIPES & TECHNIQUES

purpose Pickled Home- made YelloCwCohoilkliensg

All- 30 30 purpose 31 31 Chilli 32 3334 Sauce Pickled Hmomadee-Green YelloCwCohoilkliensg

30 ALL-PURPOSE CHILLI SAUCE chinese heritage Red chillies 350 g (12 oz) Red bird’s eye chillies 20 Garlic 10 cloves Castor sugar 25 g (⅘ oz) Sea salt 1 Tbsp Water 2 Tbsp Rock sugar 30 g (1 oz), crushed Rice vinegar 90 ml (3 fl oz / ⅜ cup) 2o.r t oC otmasbtein e1 . c h iWllieass,h gaanrldic ,d sryu gcahri laliensd vsealrty inw ea lll atroge glass jar and loosely cover. Let jar remsotvaen da lal td ruosot man tde mdiprte.r aRteumreo fvoer a4n–5d ddaisycsa. rSdtir jar 3st. a l koAsnf. tceCerh oa4 p–d5 ac hyd ialwlyiesit,sh p faoin uefrl eyc.so hSnleytep-wnatrasas tohefe adjanrd i npteoe al gpaortl.ic cloveAftceolsder .dm aaC n eash ilnsomlp tprsome . ogmTenahrar..i lisiMSnc i iiminsfx igtnmnu eoirenleryrmg . wrfeaoildrl. li 5ebn–u6tbs bmalenin dus ltbiegrshin.t glAyd ajuss itt 4. sPeuarésoen sinagu cteo itna sat eb. leSnaduecer usnhtoiul lvde rbye fhinoet ,and strain tsharlotyu gahn da svliegrhyt lcyl esaonu rs. ieTuvren, opfufs hienagt and let sauce sitt athnrdo uing hp owt iuthn tail slupkaetuwla.r mDi.scard residue in sieve. 5. YSotour es hsoauulcde ginet aa bveoruyt c3l5e0a nm gllass jar in the r(e1f1r⅔ige frla toozr). Ssacouocep. it out only with a clean dry spoon. It will keep indefinitely. If 6. sTahuisc eb asstear tssa utoce c hcan gbee cuosloeudr aosr ad etavbeleop ocoffn-fdlaimvoeunrts oorr fofrf -darreosmsiansg, nthoroodwle ist aonudt aspnidc imngake au pn egwra vbieastc ahn. d fried rice. PICKLED GREEN CHILLIES Rice vinegar 150 ml (5 fl oz) Water 140 ml (4⅔ fl oz)

31 TEOCHEW CHILLI DIP Red chillies 2 Garlic 3 cloves, peeled Sugar 1 tsp Salt 1 tsp White vinegar 3–4 Tbsp 1. Finely mince chillies and garlic. 2. Mix sugar and salt with vinegar in a bowl until they are dissolved. Add chillies and 3. gSearrlvice awnidth m stixe awmeelld. seafood, chicken or braised meats. FIVE-SPICE POWDER Cassia or cinnamon 10 sticks Star anise 5 whole pieces Fennel seeds 2 Tbsp Cloves 1½ tsp Sichuan peppercorns 1 tsp 1. Crush spices lightly to break them up into small fragments, to minimise stress on 2y.o u rI f ssppicicee sm ailrle o nr ofto ogdro upnrodc efisnseo re. nToraungshfe br yt htheims ttimo e, the wcmoaoilillt soflorig r phart olfyce—ewsts hmoery,i n twuhteaenrsm tbo lue lpne dtd uthrienmg blending 3o.n mbSieeftcd apiuomswe dsoepfr e fetrhidcrt oifouongr —h1 t5ah– e2fin0n eps-uemlcsoens-hbd lsem, nuedntatill sriedvuec, ed to aCtu hofnievntineel r gt praraoonnuwdsn fdldeee rtr f. itsnote aa.nnd aiinr tiag hcot ogll apslsa cjea r.for at least 1 week before using to let the aromas NOTbElend. Makes about 125 g (4½ oz) powder.

TEOCHEW CHILLI DIP Red chillies 2 Garlic 3 cloves, peeled Sugar 1 tsp Salt 1 tsp White vinegar 3–4 Tbsp 1. Finely mince chillies and garlic. 2. Mix sugar and salt with vinegar in a bowl until they are dissolved. Add chillies and 3. gSearrlvice awnidth m stixe awmeelld. seafood, chicken or braised meats. FIVE-SPICE POWDER Cassia or cinnamon 10 sticks Star anise 5 whole pieces Fennel seeds 2 Tbsp Cloves 1½ tsp Sichuan peppercorns 1 tsp 1. Crush spices lightly to break them up into small fragments, to minimise stress on 2y.o u rI f ssppicicee sm ailrle o nr ofto ogdro upnrodc efisnseo re. nToraungshfe br yt htheims ttimo e, the cwmoaoilillt soflorig r phart olfyce—ewsts hmoery,i n twuhteaenrsm tbo lue lpne dtd uthrienmg blending 3o.n mbSieeftcd apiuomswe dsoepfr e fetrhidcrt oifouongr —h1 t5ah– e2fin0n eps-uemlcsoens-hbd lsem, nuedntatill sriedvuec, ed to aCtu hofnievntineel r gt praraoonnuwdsn fdldeee rtr f. itsnote aa.nnd aiinr tiag hcot ogll apslsa cjea r.for at least 1 week before using to let the aromas NOTbElend. Makes about 125 g (4½ oz) powder.

32 CRISPY LARD CHINESE HERITAGEACNUBDE SLIQUID LARD Fresh pork fat 600 g (1 lb 5⅓ oz) Water 200 ml (6¾ fl oz / ⅘ cup) 1. With a sharp cleaver or knife, cut pork fat into 1.5 cm (¾-in) cubes. Try to make 2th. e mCo ams beinvee nplyo rksi zfeatd wasit hp owsasitbelre .in a well-seasoned wok or large non-stick pot. Stir and fry slowly over medium-low heat. As it boils, the water will help the lard start to 3. rInecnrdeears. eK eheepa tf rtyoi nmge udniutiml t haen dc ucboenst inhuaev ef rsyhinrugn ukntil sthlieg hftalyt caunbde sa aproeo al orifc hliq guoidld leanrd bhraosw cno.l leDcot endo.t let them over-darken too much or they will taste scorched and bitter. Scoop crispy lard out of the wok with a slotted 4. sOpnocoen b aonthd ctraisnpsyf elra rtdo aan pdl alitqeu tido lcaorodl .are cLoemt tphlee tleiqlyu icdo olalerdd ,i nr etchoem wboinke ctohoel md oiwn na slightly, tvheeryn cslterainn gitl atshsr ojaurg. hC oav evre rtyig fhintley and store in the cmoeldsehs tm peatratl osfie yvoeu. r refrigerator. 5. Theis lwiqiulli dk elaerpd fwori lla t ulrena sotp aa qcuoeu palen do fc rmeaomntyh sa.s Ifit rcahnilclsid. Oanrolym sacso opr folauvt oluards dweivthelop, tchleroawn, oduryt sthpeo olanrsd. and make a fresh batch. NOTE • Rendered lard for stir-frying and crispy lard cubes for garnishing are essential pantry ingredients in the Chinese kitchen, or at least, they used to be, before health concerns took precedence. Used in moderation, lard gives an irreplaceable flavour and fragrance to fried noodles, rice and vegetables.

33 LIGHT STOCK Mixed bones (see Note) 1.5 kg (3 lb 4½ oz) Water 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) 1. Bring a large pot of water to the boil over high heat. Immerse bones in water and blanch for 2 minutes, then drain well. 2. Combine bones with 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) fresh water in a large pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Skim off any scum that rises. Lower heat 3. tSotr amine dsituomck- ltohwro, ucgohv ear vpeorty, lfeinaevi nmge lsidh smligehtatly ajar 4. asTihneidvs esr.ei mIcti mpisee rrye ivaeedldryys fgoaerb nouutsltey .1fo.7r5 litres (56 fl oz / 7 c1u½p–s2) lhigohutr,s ,n sekuimtraml finlagv ooucrceadsionally. stock that can be used as a base for soups, in stews or congee. Splash some into the wok when stir-frying vegetables or meat NOTbtoEe ardedfr iag elritattleed f lfaovro au r.c oItu cpalen of days, or frozen for •u Ap mtoix o1f pmorko snotfht b. oBneesy, cohnicdke nth caartc,asses and meat scraps makes itssat ogfcolako.vd B,o ofuunlerl- sf mlaanvado uycra ebrdtielaggien p rtoov iddee btoedryi,o wrhaitlee m. eat provides • Ifnlatevnosuirf.y the flavour of the stock by adding fresh ingredients such as carrot slices and celery stems, or dried ingredients: dried mushrooms or mushroom stems, dried prawns (shrimps), dried anchovies, slivers of Chinese ham, soy beans (soak them for 10–12 hours • Faonrd a d frisahin b boenfeo rset oucske,) r eanfedr stou cth.e M reackiep es uforer sthliece add fdisithio bnese h haovoen f(lpaavgoeu r4s4 c)o.mpatible with the eventual dish that the stock will be used for.

LIGHT STOCK Mixed bones (see Note) 1.5 kg (3 lb 4½ oz) Water 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) 1. Bring a large pot of water to the boil over high heat. Immerse bones in water and blanch for 2 minutes, then drain well. 2. Combine bones with 2.5 litres (80 fl oz / 10 cups) fresh water in a large pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Skim off any scum that rises. Lower heat 3. tSotr amine dsituomck- ltohwro, ucgohv ear vpeorty, lfeinaevi nmge lsidh smligehtatly ajar 4. asTihneidvs esr.ei mIcti mpisee rrye ivaeedldryys fgoaerb nouutsltey .1fo.7r5 litres (56 fl oz / 7 c1u½p–s2) lhigohutr,s ,n sekuimtraml finlagv ooucrceadsionally. stock that can be used as a base for soups, in stews or congee. Splash some into the wok when stir-frying vegetables or meat NOTbtoEe ardedfr iag elritattleed f lfaovro au r.c oItu cpalen of days, or frozen for •u Ap mtoix o1f pmorko snotfht b. oBneesy, cohnicdke nth caartc,asses and meat scraps makes itssat ogfcolako.vd B,o ofuunlerl- sf mlaanvado uycra ebrdtielaggien p rtoov iddee btoedryi,o wrhaitlee m. eat provides • Ifnlatevnosuirf.y the flavour of the stock by adding fresh ingredients such as carrot slices and celery stems, or dried ingredients: dried mushrooms or mushroom stems, dried prawns (shrimps), dried anchovies, slivers of Chinese ham, soy beans (soak them for 10–12 hours • Faonrd a d frisahin b boenfeo rset oucske,) r eanfedr stou cth.e M reackiep es uforer sthliece add fdisithio bnese h haovoen f(lpaavgoeu r4s4 c)o.mpatible with the eventual dish that the stock will be used for.

HOME( -MADE 34 YGELLULTOINWOUS RICE WINECHINESE HERITAGE White glutinous rice 3 kg (6 lb 11 oz) Dried yeast cake 6 pieces (10 g / ⅓ oz each), pounded to a fine powder and sieved Red yeast rice 3–4 Tbsp Cooled boiled water 250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) White rice wine 2 litres (64 fl oz / 8 cups) 21.. f DrWerasaihns h wr ircaiectee ar nwjudes lptl ltaaocn edt h iend rsaaai nwm. iedP ellae,c vseeh lai nall osaw c lteraayn. Add contahien erri,c ec.o Svteera wmi tohv ewra hteigr ht oh eaat t lefoars tf o2r- c2m5–30 3(.¾ - imtPnhr)rie nopauuabtgreoehsv o,ea uo trlr.ai curRegne etlmi elg vorleaivclsee,s a liijsnda d rs o ooflfe ft st at aetsn aoldema aktees rtfn ocd1ra e54rr-e lifhturoellu y(r s4t.o80 - falv ozid / a n6y0 -ccounpd) ecnaspaatcioitny :d crliepapnin git into thoer oriuceg.h Llye awvieth r ihceo tt oso caopoyl wcoamteprl eatnedly ;l ecto ivt eari rw-ditrhy. Sap mrinekslhe cao vliettrl eif yneeacset spsoarwy.der over the bottom of the jar. Place enough rice in the jar to form a very loosely-packed layer 4. aPboouur tc o3o-clemd (b1o¼ile-idn )w tahtieckr .o Svperri ntkhle rgiceen.e Crouveslry the jwarit ho rm porte e yitehaesrt wpoitwh dae lro aonsedl ya- pinch foafs rtedn eyde apslat srtiicce .c oCvoenrt,i nour ew aitlhte ran aclteinagn rdicrey , tyoewaeslt, 5. taWineidth rtineig dh3 t–yl6ey adasarto yrusicn, edf e ltrahmyeee rnjsat rau trniotminl atsolhl ould be under swinegacyrue radeni eidtn. tsPso lmacre wuits ieinnde aus hpco. ouEln,d s duharaervk etshpaot tt hine ytoupr aklaictyceuhrmes nua.lraet eyde.a Wst itahn da rveedr yy eclaesatn r imcee. tal spoon, remove some of the wine and smell and taste it: it should be sweet, floral and aromatic. If it is sour or musty-tasting, discard everything and start over. If it is fine, add 6. tAhse thweh iwtei nreic efe wrmineen tasn, dth we irtihc ea grains will slowly clolesean t,h deriyr slahdalpee, paunsdh s tehme i-indgisrseodlvieents down to mintaok ea spuarset ea. llA tfhteer r2ic1e– 2is5 tdhaoyros,u gthhely mixture should

MADE ) HAKKA- NOUS RICE STYLE YELLOW 3 kg (6 lb 11 oz) Dried yeast RICE WINE a fine powder and 3–4 Tbsp 250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) litres (64 fl oz / 8 cups) ptl ltaaocn edt h iend rsaaai nwm. iedP ellae,c vseeh lai nall osaw c lteraayn. Add i tohv ewra hteigr ht oh eaat t lefoars tf o2r- c2m5–30 etlmi elg vorleaivclsee,s a liijsnda d rs o ooflfe ft st at aetsn aoldema aktees rtfn ocd1ra e54rr-e lifhturoellu y(r s4t.o80 - ecnaspaatcioitny :d crliepapnin git into h r ihceo tt oso caopoyl wcoamteprl eatnedly ;l ecto ivt eari rw-ditrhy. yeast powder over the jar. Place enough rice in the jar loosely-packed layer ¼ile-idn )w tahtieckr .o Svperri ntkhle rgiceen.e Crouveslry the srt wpoitwh dae lro aonsedl ya- pinch ce .c oCvoenrt,i nour ew aitlhte ran aclteinagn rdicrey , tyoewaeslt, rusicn, edf e ltrahmyeee rnjsat rau trniotminl atsolhl ould be under wuits ieinnde aus hpco. ouEln,d s duharaervk etshpaot tt hine ytoupr Wt itahn da rveedr yy eclaesatn r imcee. tal spoon, of the wine and smell should be sweet, floral and s sour or musty-tasting, ing and start over. If it is fine, add wrmineen tasn, dth we irtihc ea grains will slowly ee, paunsdh s tehme i-indgisrseodlvieents down to fhteer r2ic1e– 2is5 tdhaoyros,u gthhely mixture should

35 Pounded dried yeast cake Red rice wine, a week into fermentation Red rice wine, 21 days into fermentatio Red wine lees NOTE • To make Foochow-style red rice wine, increase the quantity of red yeast rice to 250 g (9 oz) and follow the recipe as above. The resulting wine and lees will both be bright red. Red rice wine lees are more flavourful than yellow wine lees and can be used in recipes as such as red wine lees chicken (page 96). To halt yeast activity, scrape the red lees from the muslin cloth into a wide non-stick pan. Bring to a full simmer over medium

Pounded dried yeast cake Red rice wine, a week into fermentation Red rice wine, 21 days into fermentatio Red wine lees NOTE • To make Foochow-style red rice wine, increase the quantity of red yeast rice to 250 g (9 oz) and follow the recipe as above. The resulting wine and lees will both be bright red. Red rice wine lees are more flavourful than yellow wine lees and can be used in recipes as such as red wine lees chicken (page 96). To halt yeast activity, scrape the red lees from the muslin cloth into a wide non-stick pan. Bring to a full simmer over medium

36 COOKING AND CHINESE HERITAGEPREPARATION TECHNIQUES IN CTHHEINESE KITCHEN Stir-frying Wok hei (literally wok breath), a ‘scorched’ quality of aroma with is a trademark of expert stir-frying, and can only be achieved with seasoned wok. Before the eras of cooker exhaust hoods and outdoor back kitchen with a wok station used to be a stand testament to the fire and fumes involved in wok cooking. Cast iron and carbon steel woks are preferred for stir-frying. Cast but is less responsive to changes in heat level; carbon steel heats up new wok of either of these materials must be seasoned before us non-stick. Scrub off all oil residue from manufacturing, then dry the a thin layer of cooking oil all over the inside of the wok, then set it o minutes, until all the oil carbonises, turns to smoke and dissip completely, wipe it out with a paper towel, and then repeat the oil once or twice. It will be left with the beginnings of a shiny, dark patin with each subsequent frying session. Always preheat the wok on t any Toi l ptroe siet.r vUes eth eyo upra tsinea,s oanse ds owono ka so ntlhy ef owr oskti r-hfarysi ncgo oalned dee shtaenadmleindg, wora bsrha iisti nwg,i tahs hbotil iwnga tlieqru, iadns din sict rwubil l istp woiilt thh en optahtinga . hard brush or soft sponge. You can use a tiny drop of soap to help dis woks that already have well-developed patinas. After each use a

COOKING AND PREPARATION TECHNIQUES IN CHINESE KITCHEN Stir-frying (literally wok breath), a ‘scorched’ quality of aroma with notes of caramelisation, is a trademark of expert stir-frying, and can only be achieved with high heat and a well- seasoned wok. Before the eras of cooker exhaust hoods and small apartments, an outdoor back kitchen with a wok station used to be a standard feature in houses, testament to the fire and fumes involved in wok cooking. Cast iron and carbon steel woks are preferred for stir-frying. Cast iron retains heat better but is less responsive to changes in heat level; carbon steel heats up and cools down fast. A new wok of either of these materials must be seasoned before use, to render it naturally non-stick. Scrub off all oil residue from manufacturing, then dry the wok over low heat. Rub a thin layer of cooking oil all over the inside of the wok, then set it over high heat for several minutes, until all the oil carbonises, turns to smoke and dissipates. Let the wok cool completely, wipe it out with a paper towel, and then repeat the oiling-and-heating process once or twice. It will be left with the beginnings of a shiny, dark patina that will be reinforced with each subsequent frying session. Always preheat the wok on the stove before adding any Toi l ptroe siet.r vUes eth eyo upra tsinea,s oanse ds owono ka so ntlhy ef owr oskti r-hfarysi ncgo oalned deeneopu-gfhry inagft,e ra nuds en otot fboer shtaenadmleindg, wora bsrha iisti nwg,i tahs hbotil iwnga tlieqru, iadns din sict rwubil l istp woiilt thh en optahtinga . harder than a bamboo wok brush or soft sponge. You can use a tiny drop of soap to help dislodge food, but only on woks that already have well-developed patinas. After each use and wash, dry the wok

37 Deep-frying The curvature of a round or slightly flat-bottomed wok, compared to allows deep-frying to be done with a minimum amount of oil. Us peanut or sunflower for the best results. Wide mesh strainers are u lift out food items that are large or awkwardly shaped; otherwise, fryinEgx pcehrotp sCthicinkes sies tchoeo ukssu, awl htoeothl.er professional or domestic, rely than a thermometer when deep-frying; they keep track of how and how it changes shape, observe and listen to how vigorously on. With practice, any cook can accrue such skill. Foods with uniform textures that are cut into small pieces Conversely, foods with irregular internal textures, such as bone-in fry for a longer time at a lower temperature so that they co through. Double-deep-frying is appropriate for some items: these temperature to partially or wholly cook them, then drained, coole a second time at a higher temperature to reach their final Sometimes cut ingredients are rinsed or quickly blanched for seve hot oil—a process also known as oil-velveting—to cook their oute Bareo uisleidn ing a &stir -fSry.immering Chinese cooks blanch or rinse some ingredients in boiling water a

Deep-frying The curvature of a round or slightly flat-bottomed wok, compared to a flat-based saucepan, allows deep-frying to be done with a minimum amount of oil. Use a refined oil such as peanut or sunflower for the best results. Wide mesh strainers are used to lower in and/or lift out food items that are large or awkwardly shaped; otherwise, a pair of long wooden fryinEgx pcehrotp sCthicinkes sies tchoeo ukssu, awl htoeothl.er professional or domestic, rely on their senses rather than a thermometer when deep-frying; they keep track of how fast the food colours and how it changes shape, observe and listen to how vigorously the oil bubbles, and so on. With practice, any cook can accrue such skill. Foods with uniform textures that are cut into small pieces are quick to deep-fry. Conversely, foods with irregular internal textures, such as bone-in chicken pieces, need to fry for a longer time at a lower temperature so that they cook evenly all the way through. Double-deep-frying is appropriate for some items: these are first fried at a lower temperature to partially or wholly cook them, then drained, cooled, and later deep-fried a second time at a higher temperature to reach their final colour and crispness. Sometimes cut ingredients are rinsed or quickly blanched for several seconds in medium- hot oil—a process also known as oil-velveting—to cook their outer surfaces, before they aBreo uisleidn ing a &stir -fSry.immering Chinese cooks blanch or rinse some ingredients in boiling water as a preparation step, to

38 CHINESE HERITAGE is occasionally used for soups needing a slow flavour extraction o slow to reach tenderness. Double-boiling combines the ingredients with minimal water i is then placed in a steamer and steamed for an hour or two. This soups or cooking juices with very pure flavours. Steaming Chinese steaming is most often done with stacked bamboo or metal trays set over a large wok or poWth. ileI nm oast hsaovomury ed iskheist, cshuceh nas, seafood and steamed steaming is done mostequally well in electric steamers or steam ovens, certain dishe egufshfiincg iestenamtl yof aw stiotvheto pn sote ammero sreetup ,t fhora enxample dim s tpawu (obu nlsa) yore chrese cohefo ntgr afuny (sri,c e anoso dale nroylls). hKnigifhee rW torarky sC wutotiunlgd be too far finrogmre dthieen thse parte scoisuerclye .i sSingle integral to Chinese cuisine.

is occasionally used for soups needing a slow flavour extraction or braised items that are slow to reach tenderness. Double-boiling combines the ingredients with minimal water in a small vessel, which is then placed in a steamer and steamed for an hour or two. This gentle process produces soups or cooking juices with very pure flavours. Steaming Chinese steaming is most often done with stacked bamboo or metal trays set over a large wok or pot. In a home kitchen,While most savoury dishes, such as seafood and steamed eggs, can be cooked steaming is done mostequally well in electric steamers or steam ovens, certain dishes require the upward- efficiently with no more thangushing steam of a stovetop steamer setup, for example dim sum items like steamed tw (obu nlsa) yore chrese cohefo ntgr afuny (sri,c e anoso dale nroylls). Khnigifhee rW torarky sC wutotiunlgd be too far finrogmre dthieen thse parte scoisuerclye .i sSingle integral to Chinese cuisine.

39 Mincing meats or seafood with repeated staccato chopping yields better results than mincing with a machine. The hand-chop succulence, with a pleasingly irregular mouthfeel. Preserving In times past, most large Chinese households here would have staples, such as rice wine, chilli condiments, pickled and salted mixes. With the decline of space and time, these have largely bee made versions. However, certain items are still easy enough to m simple vinegared pickles, yellow glutinous rice wine ( In southern China, salted, smoked, cured and air-dried m 31) and chilli-based seasonings. traditionally made by households during the winter. Chinese S southern descent, share this affection for cured meats, although purchased, as Singapore’s very humid climate renders them impra

Mincing meats or seafood with repeated staccato chopping motions of the cleaver yields better results than mincing with a machine. The hand-chopped meat retains more succulence, with a pleasingly irregular mouthfeel. Preserving In times past, most large Chinese households here would have made their own pantry staples, such as rice wine, chilli condiments, pickled and salted vegetables and spice mixes. With the decline of space and time, these have largely been supplanted by ready- made versions. However, certain items are still easy enough to make at home, such as simple vinegared pickles, yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34), five-spice powder (page In southern China, salted, smoked, cured and air-dried meats and seafood are ) and chilli-based seasonings. traditionally made by households during the winter. Chinese Singaporeans, mostly of southern descent, share this affection for cured meats, although these are now usually purchased, as Singapore’s very humid climate renders them impractical to make at home.

CANTONESE DISHES

Beef Ho4r 2Fun Sliced Fish Bee 4H4oon Clay Pot4 R6ice Char 5S0iew Sweet and Sour5 P2ork Pork Steamed with Har Ch5e4ong Loh Ka5i6 Yik

Beef Ho4r 2Fun Steamed 60 Sliced Fish Bee 4H4oon Whole 62 Fish 64 Clay Pot4 R6ice 66 Char 5S0iew Steamed 68 Egg 70 Sweet and Sour5 P2ork Siew 72 med with Har Ch5e4ong Mai Loh Ka5i6 Yik

42 BEEF HOR FUNCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 A well-seasoned wok and high heat are crucial to the success When preparing this dish, avoid the common practice of tend baking soda; it gives the beef an acrid edge and, if left on t cottony soft texture. Rice wine and pounded ginger have enou on their own. Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 3 Tbsp Fresh hor fun noodles 450 g (1 lb) Baby or young kai lan (Chinese broccoli) 100 g (3½ oz), washed and separated into individual leaves Garlic 3 cloves, thinly sliced Salted black beans 2 tsp, coarsely chopped Beef Mixture Well-marbled beef 250 g (9 oz), thinly sliced across the grain Shaoxing rice wine 2 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Superior dark soy sauce 1 tsp Pounded ginger 1½ tsp Cornflour (cornstarch) 1 tsp Freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp 2S.e s aMmixe aolli li n1g trsepd iSeanutsc efo Br esaeuf cset otcokg e(tsheeer Nanodte s)e 1t 25 3m. l (aH4se iadflte o.1z T/b s½p lacrudp )or oil in a wok over high heat. OystFelur ffs ahuocre f u1n½ n Tobosdples with your hands to loosen and separate them, and work out any Supeclruiomr pdsa. rAkd sdo nyo soadulecse t1o Twbospk aCnodn dtiomssents Pickled 4g.r e evAnidg doc hrroielulmiselaysi nu(pinatgigl elsa lri3dg0 h)ot,lr y co ubiltr otrowe dwneodk .a Wndh escno hrcohte, da dodn chilltdksihemaisesih o l eokaoidrnnu g aetae lsnolss-d.n p e tTufoshrrs yiptse ho unpesntre iteapi ll-c afbthrtoyaeil irl nteioh glfsiy saa h utddoecidrnse shdf u.tet ohnDr ,e itastahnhsed toen suet t oanstiod ea.

BEEF HOR A well-seasoned wok and high heat are crucial to the success of this hawker classic. When preparing this dish, avoid the common practice of tenderising the beef with baking soda; it gives the beef an acrid edge and, if left on too long, an unnatural, cottony soft texture. Rice wine and pounded ginger have enough tenderising power on their own. Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 3 Tbsp hor fun noodles 450 g (1 lb) Baby or young (Chinese broccoli) 100 g (3½ oz), washed and separated into individual leaves Garlic 3 cloves, thinly sliced Salted black beans 2 tsp, coarsely chopped Beef Well-marbled beef 250 g (9 oz), thinly sliced across the grain Shaoxing rice wine 2 Superior light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Superior dark soy sauce 1 tsp Pounded ginger 1½ Cornflour (cornstarch) 1 tsp Freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp 2S.e s aMmixe aolli li n1g trsepd iSeanutsc efo Br esaeuf cset otcokg e(tsheeer Nanodte s)e 1t 25 3m. l (H4e aflt o1z T/b s½p lacrudp )or oil in a wok over high heat. Oyster sahuocre f u1n½ n Tobosdples with your hands to loosen and separate them, and work out any Supeclruiomr pdsa. rAkd sdo nyo soadulecse t1o Twbospk aCnodn dtiomssents Pickled 4g.r e evAnidg doc hrroielulmiselaysi nu(pinatgigl elsa lri3dg0 h)ot,lr y co ubiltr otrowe dwneodk .a Wndh escno hrcohte, da dodn chilldstihemisesho eokoidrnu g aetae lsnolss-d.n p e tTufoshrrs yiptse ho unpesntre iteapi ll-c afbthrtoyaeil irl nteioh glfsiy saa h utddoecidrnse shdf u.tet ohnDr ,e itastahnhsed toen suet t oanstiod ea.





44 SLICED FISH BEE HOONCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 Hawker versions of this soup are sometimes spiked with fresh body; this short-cut is not at all necessary as long as you tak bones and fry them well in step 2, which will make your brot can use bones from other white-fleshed fish for the stock, but oily fish like salmon and mackerel, as they may impart off-flavo (cilantro) roots are not traditional, but they add savouriness to t Snakehead fish bones and trimmings 1.5 kg (3 lb 4½ oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 2 Tbsp Ginger 4 thick slices Coriander (cilantro) roots (optional) 3, washed and pat-dry Shaoxing rice wine 100 ml (3½ fl oz) Water 2.2 litres (73⅓ fl oz) White peppercorns ¼ tsp Snakehead fish (sang yee) 400 g (14⅓ oz), sliced Brandy (optional) 1 Tbsp Sesame oil ½ tsp Salt to taste Sugar to taste Fresh laksa noodles 600 g (1 lb 5⅓ oz) Choy sum (Chinese flowering cabbage) 120 g (4¼ oz), washed Garnishes Ground white pepper Crisp-fried shallots 2. C uHte aret dla rcdh iollri eosil in a large wok over medium-high Lihgehat t.s oWyh seanu cvery hot, add fish bones Craisnpdy f rlya rfdo rc u2b mesin (uptaegs,es ti3rr2i)n g1 .o c cRaisniosen ablloy.n Aesd dand 3. tr giSmtinirmg ieinnr graiscn evd e wcroyinr iewa,n etdlhle.e rBn r oeaodatkds ,a winfa yut eslroin naggn, daf insphdeppercorns. basBctrikirn-bfgory nt oefo sa r in2bt oomi l,si nhthuoteretnes rhmaolf-reco, vuenrt ial nbdones are sbirmowmneer ds tiena sdpiloyt sf.or 20–25 minutes.

SLICED FISH BEE HOON Hawker versions of this soup are sometimes spiked with fresh or evaporated milk for body; this short-cut is not at all necessary as long as you take care to use enough bones and fry them well in step 2, which will make your broth rich and cloudy. You can use bones from other white-fleshed fish for the stock, but avoid those from very oily fish like salmon and mackerel, as they may impart off-flavours to it. The coriander (cilantro) roots are not traditional, but they add savouriness to the broth. Snakehead fish bones and trimmings 1.5 kg (3 lb 4½ oz) Liquid lard (page 32) or cooking oil 2 Tbsp 4 thick slices Coriander (cilantro) roots (optional) 3, washed and pat-dry Shaoxing rice wine 100 ml (3½ fl oz) 2.2 litres (73⅓ fl oz) White peppercorns ¼ tsp Snakehead fish (sang 400 g (14⅓ oz), sliced Brandy (optional) 1 Tbsp Sesame oil ½ tsp Salt to taste to taste Fresh laksa noodles 600 g (1 lb 5⅓ oz) Choy sum (Chinese flowering cabbage) 120 g (4¼ oz), washed Garnishes Ground white Crisp-fried shallots 2. C uHte aret dla rcdh iollri eosil in a large wok over medium-high Lihgehat t.s oWyh seanu cvery hot, add fish bones Craisnpdy f rlya rfdo rc u2b mesin (uptaegs,es ti3rr2i)n g1 .o c cRaisniosen ablloy.n Aesd dand 3. tr giSmtinirmg ieinnr graiscn evd e wcroyinr iewa,n etdlhle.e rBn r oeaodatkds ,a winfa yut eslroin naggn, daf insphdeppercorns. basBctrikirn-bfgory nt oefo sa r in2bt oomi l,si nhthuoteretnes rhmaolf-reco, vuenrt ial nbdones are bsirmowmneer ds tiena sdpiloyt sf.or 20–25 minutes.





46 CLAY POT RICE CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4 Aficionados swear that the best clay pot rice is made over c even, strong heat. We cannot argue with that, but this recipe w a gas or electric stove as well. Use kampong chicken, quality cheong) and the best jasmine rice you can find, and you will no Chicken thighs 4, large Chinese sausage (lup cheong) 1, sliced thickly on a diagonal Chinese liver sausage (yuen cheong) 1, sliced thickly on a diagonal Jasmine rice 450 g (1 lb) Cooking oil 1 Tbsp Finely chopped garlic 1 Tbsp Boiling water 700 ml (23⅓ fl oz) Marinade Ginger 40 g (1½2 oz) Home-made yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34) or Shaoxing rice wine 3 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 2 Tbsp Oyster sauce 2 tsp Superior dark soy sauce 1 tsp Sugar ¾ tsp Ground white pepper ½ tsp Sesame oil ½ tsp Sauce Superior thick dark soy sauce 2 Tbsp Light stock (page 33) or water 2 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Liquid lard (page 32) 1 Tbsp

CLAY POT RICE Aficionados swear that the best clay pot rice is made over charcoal because of its even, strong heat. We cannot argue with that, but this recipe works well cooked over a gas or electric stove as well. Use kampong chicken, quality Chinese sausages (lup ) and the best jasmine rice you can find, and you will not be disappointed. Chicken thighs 4, large Chinese sausage (lup 1, sliced thickly on a diagonal Chinese liver sausage (yuen cheong) 1, sliced thickly on a diagonal Jasmine rice 450 g (1 Cooking oil 1 Tbsp Finely chopped garlic 1 Tbsp Boiling water 700 ml (23⅓ fl oz) Marinade Ginger 40 g (1½2 oz) Home-made yellow glutinous rice ) or Shaoxing rice wine 3 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 2 Tbsp Oyster sauce 2 tsp Superior dark soy sauce 1 tsp Sugar ¾ tsp Ground white pepper ½ tsp Sesame oil ½ tsp Sauce Superior thick dark soy 2 Tbsp Light stock (page 33) or water 2 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 1 Tbsp Liquid lard (page 32) 1 Tbsp

47 1. Prepare marinade. Peel and grate ginger, then squeeze to extract about 2 tsp juice. Reserve ginger pulp for cooking chicken later. 2. CRoemboivnee agnindg reers ejurivcee swkinth f raollm o tchheicrken thighs. Cut omffa rainadd dei sicnagrrde deixecnetss i nfa at abnodwl. chop thighs into bite-size chunks. Add chicken to marinade and mix well. Cover 3. aRninds ec hsiallu fsoarg aets lewaistht 1b ohiolinugr awnadt eurp, dtora i3n haonudr ss.et 4. abBtWrseraaifyndos gehrine . cr hiaccoi ecto,kh ketiinhnn e gltna.oy derrora.o iLnme tw tseetmlal npaden rdua ntsutpirlreead it out on a 5. sHuerafat coeil oinf gar awinosk iso vjuesr tm deryd. ium heat. Add reserved chicken skin and fry until it has rendered about 2 Tbsp of its fat. Discard chicken 6. sAkdind, gleaarlvicin agn cdh riceksenrv efadt gainndg eori,l increase to min ewdoiukm. -high heat and fry for 30 seconds. Add sausages and fry for 1 minute, 7. tAhdedn rtircaen tsofe wr took aa npdla ftrey, lfeoar v1in–2g mfatinutes, stirring igne nwtolyk .to coat grains with fat without breaking them. Scoop rice into a large clay pot. Add boiling water to rice and bring to a boil over medium heat, covered. After 6–8 minutes, when rice is about 70% cooked and there is no visible liquid, 8. dWrahinle mriaceri ncaotoekds ,c mhicixk eing arendients for sauce in a peamnb. eBdr inthge t op ieac seism imn ethr,e t hriecne taulornng with the 9. soUafnfu cshoaevgaeetr. rsilcicee sa.n Cdo fvluefrf twigihtthl yc, htouprns thicekast. Serve itmo mlowed iaantedl yc owoikt hf ogr a1rn5i–s2h0e sm ainndutes more, until ccohnicdkiemne ins tsc ooonk etdh et hsriodueg. hP oaunrd s ariucece over rice at hthaes tfaobrmlee odr ale st lidgihnte rcsr uhset.lp themselves to it.

1. Prepare marinade. Peel and grate ginger, then squeeze to extract about 2 tsp juice. Reserve ginger pulp for cooking chicken later. 2. CRoemboivnee agnindg reers ejurivcee swkinth f raollm o tchheicrken thighs. Cut omffa rainadd dei sicnagrrde deixecnetss i nfa at abnodwl. chop thighs into bite-size chunks. Add chicken to marinade and mix well. Cover 3. aRninds ec hsiallu fsoarg aets lewaistht 1b ohiolinugr awnadt eurp, dtora i3n haonudr ss.et 4. BtbWreraaifynos ghrine cr hiaccoi ecto,kh ketiinhnn e gltna.oy derrora.o iLnme tw tseetmlal npaden rdua ntsutpirlreead it out on a 5. sHuerafat coeil oinf gar awinosk iso vjuesr tm deryd. ium heat. Add reserved chicken skin and fry until it has rendered about 2 Tbsp of its fat. Discard chicken 6. sAkdind, gleaarlvicin agn cdh riceksenrv efadt gainndg eori,l increase to medium-high heat and fry for 30 seconds. Add sausages and fry for 1 minute, 7. tAhdedn rtircaen tsofe wr took aa npdla ftrey, lfeoar v1in–2g mfatinutes, stirring gently to coat grains with fat without breaking them. Scoop rice into a large clay pot. Add boiling water to rice and bring to a boil over medium heat, covered. After 6–8 minutes, when rice is about 70% cooked and there is no visible liquid, 8. dWrahinle mriaceri ncaotoekds ,c mhicixk eing arendients for sauce in a epamnb. eBdr inthge t op ieac seism imn ethr,e t hriecne taulornng with the 9. sUanucsoavgeer rsilcicee sa.n Cdo fvluefrf twigihtthl yc, htouprns thicekast. Serve timo mlowed iaantedl yc owoikt hf ogr a1rn5i–s2h0e sm ainndutes more, until ccohnicdkiemne ins tsc ooonk etdh et hsriodueg. hP oaunrd s ariucece over rice at hthaes tfaobrmlee odr ale st lidgihnte rcsr uhset.lp themselves to it.







50 CHAR SIEW CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4–6 Although its preparation does take some time, char siew or difficult to make at home—and it is definitely better than the ga prepared versions. If you have a good pork butcher, ask him t siew and he will slice it into strips of the right dimensions. You yourself using a sharp chef’s knife. Well-marbled pork shoulder meat 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Marinade Garlic 6 cloves, peeled and pounded Shaoxing rice wine or rose rice wine 3 Tbsp Sugar 3 Tbsp Plum sauce 2 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 1½ Tbsp, drained and pounded Superior thick dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp Red fermented bean curd (nam yee), mashed 1 Tbsp Glaze Honey 4 Tbsp Hot water 3 Tbsp Superior thick dark soy sauce ½ Tbsp 1. Combine all ingredients for marinade in a large bowl and stir until blended. 2. Cut pork into long strips about 4-cm (1½-in) thick. Add to marinade and mix very well. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate, 3. Prerefrhigeearta otevde,n f otor 242–60 °hCo (u4rs4.0 S°tFir) .a Hnadv etu rena pdoyr ka large

CHAR SIEW Although its preparation does take some time, char siew or Chinese roasted pork is not difficult to make at home—and it is definitely better than the garishly red commercially prepared versions. If you have a good pork butcher, ask him to cut the meat for char and he will slice it into strips of the right dimensions. You can also slice the pork yourself using a sharp chef’s knife. Well-marbled pork shoulder meat 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Marinade Garlic 6 cloves, peeled and pounded Shaoxing rice wine or rose rice wine 3 Tbsp 3 Tbsp Plum sauce 2 Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 1½ Tbsp Preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 1½ Tbsp, drained and pounded Superior thick dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp Red fermented bean (nam yee), mashed 1 Tbsp Glaze Honey 4 Tbsp Hot water 3 Tbsp Superior thick dark soy sauce ½ Tbsp 1. Combine all ingredients for marinade in a large bowl and stir until blended. 2. Cut pork into long strips about 4-cm (1½-in) thick. Add to marinade and mix very well. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate, 3. Prerefrhigeearta otevde,n f otor 242–60 °hCo (u4rs4.0 S°tFir) .a Hnadv etu rena pdoyr ka large





52 SWEET AND SOUR PORKCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 4 This southern Chinese classic properly gets its sweetness and resulting sauce is light and vibrant, and should never taste syr Some cooks may add tomato ketchup to the sauce, a modern it should not dominate the flavour of the sauce. A childhood this dish is best served with a bowl of freshly steamed white r Pork shoulder meat 350 g (12 oz), cubed Rice wine 1 Tbsp Potato starch 1½ tsp Oyster sauce ¾ tsp Light soy sauce ½ tsp Egg 1, small Tapioca starch as needed Cooking oil for frying and deep-frying Onion ½, small, peeled and sliced into wedges Young ginger 2 thin slices Green and red capsicums (bell peppers) ½ each, small, cored and cut into 3-cm (1-in) pieces Tomatoes 2, small, each cut into 6 segments Canned pineapple rings (optional) 2, cut into chunks Sauce Water 100 ml (3½ fl oz) Plum sauce 3 Tbsp Sugar 1½ Tbsp or to taste 2R.i c e C ovminebignaer a1l l Tibnsgpredients for sauce and stir until 3L.i g h sHtm esaoto yot hisl. a fuSoecr etd a1es eiTdpbe-sf.rpying until it shimmers and a

SWEET AND SOUR PORK This southern Chinese classic properly gets its sweetness and tang from fruit. The resulting sauce is light and vibrant, and should never taste syrupy, cloying or heavy. Some cooks may add tomato ketchup to the sauce, a modern addition, but if used, it should not dominate the flavour of the sauce. A childhood favourite with many, this dish is best served with a bowl of freshly steamed white rice. Pork shoulder meat 350 g (12 oz), cubed 1 Tbsp Potato starch 1½ tsp Oyster sauce ¾ tsp Light soy sauce ½ tsp 1, small Tapioca starch as needed Cooking oil for frying and deep-frying Onion ½, small, peeled and sliced into wedges Young ginger 2 thin slices Green and red capsicums (bell peppers) ½ each, small, cored and cut into 3-cm (1-in) pieces Tomatoes 2, small, each cut into 6 Canned pineapple rings (optional) 2, cut into chunks Sauce Water 100 ml (3½ fl oz) Plum sauce 3 Tbsp 1½ Tbsp or to taste 2R.i c e C ovminebignaer a1l l Tibnsgpredients for sauce and stir until 3L.i g h sHtm esaoto yot hisl. a fuSoecr etd a1es eiTdpbe-sf.rpying until it shimmers and a





54 PORK STEAMED CHINESE HERITAGEWITH HAR CHEONG Serves 3–4 A simple, traditional homestyle dish. For the best results, use p fatty, but has even layers of meat and fat. Good quality salted (har cheong) should be pale purple-grey in colour and saltily a long way. Rich in natural flavour-enhancing proteins, it brings the pork. Serve this with white rice, a stir-fried green vegetable fried omelette for a simple but very satisfying meal. Pork belly 325 g (11⅔ fl oz) Salted prawn (shrimp) sauce (har cheong) 2 tsp Sugar ¾ tsp or to taste Cornflour (cornstarch) ¾ tsp Finely shredded ginger 1 Tbsp 1. Freeze pork belly for 20 minutes, or until firm. With a cleaver, slice pork belly into very thin slices. Pat pork dry. 2. Stir salted prawn sauce, sugar and cornflour together until smooth. Add pork and stir 3. gTreanntslyfe ur nptoilr kw teol l am hixeeadtp. rCooovf esrh aanllodw le dt imsha, rainnadte in sthhea pree firti gienrtaot oar mfoor u1n5d .m Kieneupte tsh. e pork slices loosely stacked rather than tightly packed, 4. wSphricnhk leh eflipnse ltyh eshmre cdodoekd thgirnoguegrh omveorr epork. Steam oqvueicrk lhyi gahn dh eeavte fnolry .12–13 minutes, until pork is cooked through and tender. Serve NOTimE mediately with rice. • Although it is not traditional, adding 1 tsp home-made yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34) or red rice wine to the marinade mixture gives the pork extra fragrance.

PORK STEAMED WITH HAR CHEONG A simple, traditional homestyle dish. For the best results, use pork belly that is not too fatty, but has even layers of meat and fat. Good quality salted prawn (shrimp) sauce har cheong) should be pale purple-grey in colour and saltily aromatic; a little goes a long way. Rich in natural flavour-enhancing proteins, it brings out the savouriness of the pork. Serve this with white rice, a stir-fried green vegetable and steamed egg or a fried omelette for a simple but very satisfying meal. 325 g (11⅔ fl oz) Salted prawn (shrimp) sauce (har cheong) Sugar ¾ tsp or to taste Cornflour (cornstarch) ¾ tsp Finely shredded ginger 1 Tbsp 1. Freeze pork belly for 20 minutes, or until firm. With a cleaver, slice pork belly into very thin slices. Pat pork dry. 2. Stir salted prawn sauce, sugar and cornflour together until smooth. Add pork and stir 3. gTreanntslyfe ur nptoilr kw teol l am hixeeadtp. rCooovf esrh aanllodw le dt imsha, rainnadte in sthhea pree firti gienrtaot oar mfoor u1n5d .m Kieneupte tsh. e pork slices loosely stacked rather than tightly packed, 4. wSphricnhk leh eflipnse ltyh eshmre cdodoekd thgirnoguegrh omveorr epork. Steam qovueicrk lhyi gahn dh eeavte fnolry .12–13 minutes, until pork is cooked through and tender. Serve immediately with rice. • Although it is not traditional, adding 1 tsp home-made yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34) or red rice wine to the marinade mixture gives the pork extra fragrance.