Chinese heritage cooking

138 TEOCHEW SWEET CHINESE HERITAGEPOTATO CONGEE Serves 4 Unlike the thick creamy-smooth Cantonese-style congee, Teo watery, with rice grains that are soft but still distinct and who sometimes added for their natural sweetness and a contrasting accompanied by an assortment of small dishes such as pick salted egg and preserved radish (chai poh) omelette. Teochew stalls selling congee typically offer a large selection of side items as steamed pomfret (page 144) and tauyu bak Lmoinngc egdr apino rkri,c ea n(dT hmaia njays mmionree .rice or other high-quality long grain rice) 200 g (7 oz) Sweet potato (orange or yellow) 1, large Water about 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups), depending on preferred softness of congee 1. Rinse rice 2–4 times or until the water runs almost clear. Set aside. 2. Peel sweet potato and cut into large bite-size pieces. Bring a small pot of water to a simmer, then add sweet potato and cook for 10 3. mIn inau ctleesa no vpeor tm, ceodmiubmin-elo wa hsheeatd, ruicneti land about 1 sliwtre e(t3 2p oftla otoz /is 4a lmcuopsst) dfroenseh. wDraatienr .and set aside. Over high heat, bring rice to a rolling boil. Leave 4. pAodtd usnwcoeveet rpeodt aotro h taol fr iccoev, elorewde, rb huet abte slightly to mcaareinfutal ino at tsote laedt yi tg beonitl leo vbeor.il, and cook for about 15 minutes, until rice grains are soft, 5. tThuern s wofef ehte paot,t actoov eisr tpeontd teigr,h atlnyd a tnhde lleiqt uciodngee stliagnhdtl yfo srt a1r0c–h1y5. Amdidn uat elist,t leso m thoere g wraaintesr if 6. Ssneoefrctveesn s caaornyd.g ere lawxi tfhu rstihdeer dinis hthees roefs yidouuarl chheoaict.e.

TEOCHEW SWEET POTATO CONGEE Unlike the thick creamy-smooth Cantonese-style congee, Teochew congee is more watery, with rice grains that are soft but still distinct and whole. Sweet potatoes are sometimes added for their natural sweetness and a contrasting texture. This congee is accompanied by an assortment of small dishes such as pickled/salted vegetables, salted egg and preserved radish (chai poh) omelette. Teochew restaurants or hawker stalls selling congee typically offer a large selection of side dishes, including such items as steamed pomfret (page 144) and tauyu bak (page 124), fried fish, stir-fried Lmoinngc egdr apino rkri,c ea n(dT hmaia njays mmionree .rice or other high-quality long grain rice) 200 g (7 oz) Sweet potato (orange or yellow) 1, large Water about 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups), depending on preferred softness of congee 1. Rinse rice 2–4 times or until the water runs almost clear. Set aside. 2. Peel sweet potato and cut into large bite-size pieces. Bring a small pot of water to a simmer, then add sweet potato and cook for 10 3. mIn inau ctleesa no vpeor tm, ceodmiubmin-elo wa hsheeatd, ruicneti land about 1 lsiwtre e(t3 2p oftla otoz /is 4a lmcuopsst) dfroenseh. wDraatienr .and set aside. Over high heat, bring rice to a rolling boil. Leave 4. pAodtd usnwcoeveet rpeodt aotro h taol fr iccoev, elorewde, rb huet abte slightly to mcaareinfutal ino at tsote laedt yi tg beonitl leo vbeor.il, and cook for about 15 minutes, until rice grains are soft, 5. tThuern s wofef ehte paot,t actoov eisr tpeontd teigr,h atlnyd a tnhde lleiqt uciodngee stliagnhdtl yfo srt a1r0c–h1y5. Amdidn uat elist,t leso m thoere g wraaintesr if 6. Ssneoefrctveesn s caaornyd.g ere lawxi tfhu rstihdeer dinis hthees roefs yidouuarl chheoaict.e.





140 OYSTER OMELETTE CHINESE HERITAGE Serves 2–3 Practice makes perfect with this beloved Teochew dish. Some fluffy, some prefer lots of crunchy bits, while still others favour around the oysters. Adjust it to please yourself. Take care not to so that they retain their succulence. If the oysters exude a lo them and use the juice to make up part of the water for the sta Cooking oil 1 Tbsp Liquid lard (page 32) 2 tsp Finely chopped garlic 2 tsp Spring onions (scallions) 2, cut into short lengths Coriander leaves (cilantro) 1 sprig, chopped All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) as desired Starch Batter Sweet potato starch 1½ Tbsp Plain (all-purpose) flour 1 Tbsp Cornflour (cornstarch) 1 Tbsp Salt a pinch Water 140 ml (4⅔ fl oz) Egg Mixture Kampong chicken eggs 6 or 4 regular eggs Oyster sauce 1 tsp 2G. r o uBneda t winhgirteed pieenptps efor r¼ e gtsgp mixture together until 3S.a l t l Gitgoeh ntttlalyys tbefol elOdny disnetgder.e Mdiiexntutsr ef oSr houycskterd moiyxsttuerres 180 g (6½t oogze),ther until well mixed. Stir starch batter 4w. a s sahSeneeadtd s aoaa ndnweddid d1d ec½r,aa hsiTnteb eaisrdvop yn R-o biffcr aeyist i enwtdogi nnopeoya nsn¼t- eso rttv iscmepkr i xomtru ewrdeie.ulml- - Sugahrig ¼h htsepat. When very hot, add 1 tsp oil, then

OYSTER OMELETTE Serves 2–3 Practice makes perfect with this beloved Teochew dish. Some people like it soft and fluffy, some prefer lots of crunchy bits, while still others favour tender blobs of starch around the oysters. Adjust it to please yourself. Take care not to overcook the oysters, so that they retain their succulence. If the oysters exude a lot of tasty juice, drain them and use the juice to make up part of the water for the starch batter. Cooking oil 1 Tbsp Liquid lard (page 32) 2 tsp Finely chopped garlic 2 tsp Spring onions (scallions) short lengths Coriander leaves (cilantro) 1 sprig, All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) as desired Starch Sweet potato starch 1½ Tbsp Plain (all-purpose) flour 1 Tbsp Cornflour (cornstarch) 1 Tbsp a pinch 140 ml (4⅔ fl oz) Egg Mixture Kampong chicken eggs 6 or 4 regular eggs Oyster sauce 1 tsp 2G. r o uBneda t winhgirteed pieenptps efor r¼ e gtsgp mixture together until 3. l Gitgoeh ntttlalyys tbefol elOdny disnetgder.e Mdiiexntutsr ef oSr houycskterd moiyxsttuerres 180 g together until well mixed. Stir starch batter 4w. a s sahSeneeadtd s aoaa ndnweddid d1d ec½r,aa hsiTnteb eaisrdvop yn R-o biffcr aeyist i enwtdogi nnopeoya nsn¼t- eso rttv iscmepkr i xomtru ewrdeie.ulml- - hig ¼h htsepat. When very hot, add 1 tsp oil, then





142 TEOCHEW CHINESE HERITAGEBRAISED DUCK Serves 4–5 Served during special occasions in some Teochew homes, this year-round in Teochew restaurants. The duck is cooked slowly o meat becomes meltingly tender and absorbs all the flavours o curd, fried bean curd puffs and hard-boiled eggs are sometimes Duck 1, about 1.75–2 kg (3 lb 14 oz–4 lb 6 oz), cleaned and pat dry Superior dark soy sauce 4 Tbsp Salt 1 Tbsp Five-spice powder (page 31) 1 Tbsp Cooking oil 3 Tbsp Shallots 4, peeled and thinly sliced Garlic 8 cloves, peeled and thinly sliced iaCninntdon apcmooauornsnde e 1fd rastgicmk eGntins gGearl a5n-cgmal (52--cimn) (k2n-oinb), Dpkrneipteoeaedbnlee,gdle 2r–in3e peeled and pieces, pounded into coarse fragments Seasoning Sugoarr a5bout Tbsp Superior light soy sauce 375 ml (12 fl ohz a/lf a 1½ cups) Superior dark soy sauce 125 ml (4 tfal nogzerine’s / worth ½ cup) Water 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) Condiment Bay leaves 2 Teochew chilli dip 23.. MbHeliexan tad oleli dls eoaavnesdor nsmienetg da iisunimdger-e.hdiigehn thse taotg ient hae wr uonkt illarg(aeps adgees i3re1d enough to hold duck. Add shallots 1. Start and garlic and stir-fry for 2 minutes or until preparations fragrant. Add cinnamon, ginger and

TEOCHEW BRAISED DUCK Serves 4–5 Served during special occasions in some Teochew homes, this dish is also available year-round in Teochew restaurants. The duck is cooked slowly over low heat until the meat becomes meltingly tender and absorbs all the flavours of the sauce. Firm bean curd, fried bean curd puffs and hard-boiled eggs are sometimes added to the gravy. 1, about 1.75–2 kg (3 lb 14 oz–4 lb 6 oz), cleaned and pat dry Superior dark soy sauce 4 1 Tbsp Five-spice powder (page 31) 1 Tbsp Cooking oil 3 Tbsp 4, peeled and thinly sliced 8 cloves, peeled and thinly sliced aiCnnintdon apcmooauornsnde e 1fd rastgicmk eGntins gGearl a5n-cgmal (52--cimn) (k2n-oinb), Dpkrneipteoeaedbnlee,gdle 2r–in3e peeled and pieces, pounded into coarse fragments Seasoning Sugoarr a5bout Superior light soy sauce 375 ml (12 fl ohz a/lf a 1½ cups) Superior dark soy sauce 125 ml (4 tfal nogzerine’s Water 1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) worth Bay leaves 2 Condiment Teochew chilli dip 23.. MbHeliexan tad oleli dls eoaavnesdor nsmienetg da iisunimdger-e.hdiigehn thse taotg ient hae wr uonkt illarga(eps adgees i3re1d) enough to hold duck. Add shallots 1. Start and garlic and stir-fry for 2 minutes or until preparations fragrant. Add cinnamon, ginger and





144 TEOCHEW STEAMED POMFRETCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 2–4 Teochews prize white and silver pomfrets for their fine-text delicate marine flavour, and favour them in this dish. Black pom coarse in flavour and texture for this treatment. The broth that p steaming distils the natural juices of all the ingredients int balance of sour, sweet and earthy tastes. Steamed pomfret ma or congee. Salted vegetable (kiam chye) 60 g (2¼ oz) Dried shiitake mushrooms 6 Wet salted plums (sng boey) 2 Very thinly sliced pork fat 1 Tbsp Young ginger 45 g (1⅔ oz), peeled and finely shredded Fresh white or silver pomfret 1, about 500–700 g (1 lb 1½ oz–1½ lb), cleaned Shaoxing rice wine 1 Tbsp Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp 2G.r o uSnoda kw mhuitseh rpoeopmpse ri n¼ 2 0ts0p ml (6¾ fl oz / ⅘ cup) Salt w ⅛at etsr pfor 30 minutes. Strain soaking liquid 3R.i p eCaaa onnntmodddm bssreialanislctteeeoe r edmvcs eapu p.2ls us,Ch mursiontms ot ooaimnf lfsl s,ata ,r cnimspudmstu .adsinhlilst rcopoa oorqtmd.u aB msrrotiuenasrgkhs i rntooSgo p amlriiqn usgitdems 4o.n i oSgcneasnt tt(elserc haslaimllifo mtnhsee)r s2oa,v lteceurd tm vineetdgoieu t3ma-bc-lmleo,w p ohreka fta, tc aonodk gfoinr g1er (1-inma)c irlnoeusntsge at,h tlsah reRgne d thu ercnah tiopllfrif o ½hofe, apdtlea. ste.e Mdeadk eand cut into 5ffir.ne es hL omp2as no todwurr ralikseap h 3dtf sraeh iodatro1oe gat.fme onom pnrd s aWu s1galls.a5ainh nPss drghmhlo aees ociasrsnme.a l utoS lpe ttpnbeeodr rdesim onp, a tklfvhcturlhehee moeg t sfv nesioised t noharde v btr fwooeailsefiprhn t p ah.a.o on nSfSTmdcdha iafantsrorteloeoyxtaur i,n ksnc gludiic ntretiic,neg

TEOCHEW STEAMED POMFRET Serves 2–4 Teochews prize white and silver pomfrets for their fine-textured, moist flesh and delicate marine flavour, and favour them in this dish. Black pomfret is considered too coarse in flavour and texture for this treatment. The broth that pools in the plate after steaming distils the natural juices of all the ingredients into a beautifully subtle balance of sour, sweet and earthy tastes. Steamed pomfret may be served with rice or congee. Salted vegetable (kiam chye) 60 g (2¼ oz) Dried shiitake mushrooms 6 Wet salted plums (sng boey) 2 Very thinly sliced pork fat 1 Tbsp Young ginger 45 g (1⅔ oz), peeled and finely shredded Fresh white or silver pomfret 1, 500–700 g (1 lb 1½ oz–1½ lb), cleaned Shaoxing 1 Tbsp Light soy sauce 1 Tbsp 2G.r o uSnoda kw mhuitseh rpoeopmpse ri n¼ 2 0ts0p ml (6¾ fl oz / ⅘ cup) w ⅛at etsr pfor 30 minutes. Strain soaking liquid 3R.i p eCaaa onnntmodddm bsrseialanislctteeeoe r edmvcs eapu p.2ls us,Ch mursiontms ot ooaimnf lfsl s,ata ,r cnimspudmstu .adsinhlilst rcopoa oorqtmd.u aB msrrotiuenasrgkhs i rntooSgo p amlriiqn usgitdems 4o.n i oSgcneasnt tt(elserc haslaimllifo mtnhsee)r s2oa,v lteceurd tm vineetdgoieu t3ma-bc-lmleo,w p ohreka fta, tc aonodk gfoinr g1er (1-inam)c irlnoeusntsge at,h tlsah reRgne d thu ercnah tiopllfrif o ½hofe, apdtlea. ste.e Mdeadk eand cut into 5ffir.ne es hL p2omas no todwurr ralikseap h 3dtf sraeh iodatro1oe gat.fme onom pnrd s aWu s1galls.a5ainh nPss drghmhlo aees ociasrsnme.a l utoS lpe ttpnbeeodr rdesim onp, a tklfvhcturlhehee moeg t sfv nesioised t noharde v btr fwooeailsefiprhn t p ah.a.o on nSfSTmdcdha iafantsrortelooeyxtaur i,n ksnc gludiic ntretiic,neg





146 NGOH HIANG CHINESE HERITAGE Makes 5 rolls The name of this dish is derived from the Chinese five-spice powder that gives the rolls their distinctive flavour and aroma. The Teochew version emphasises the flavours and textures of the prawns, water chestnuts and taro, unlike Hokkien ngoh hiang, which has a meatier sParavowunr.s T(hseh rirmolplss )c 2an0 0b ge (s7h aopze)d and steamed aPheeealedd otfa rtoim 1e5 0a ngd ( 5k⅓ep to zin) the freezer. Minced pork 300 g (11 oz) Onion 60 g (2¼ oz), peeled and finely chopped Spring onions (scallions) 2, finely chopped Garlic 3 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Egg 1, beaten Cornflour (cornstarch) 1 tsp Five-spice powder (page 31) 1 tsp Sugar 1 tsp Salt to taste 2G.r o uSnteda mw htiatero poevpepr ehri gtoh thaesatet until just tender, then Sesalemt ec oooil s1l igtshptly. Break it up into fine 3W. a toccCeoronru mmimochpnbbelsiesn s taetewnn lpyduit.r thags w aa4r n,lf isocp .rwe kMe iwtliehxhd mei leagin ngsdc,t e iclfdloi n wrpneaoflylromk ud, ,ri ,octenhdieo nnD ,l resietp drcionogl beanfi vceu-rsdp icsek inp o5w sdheer,e stsu,g eaar,c sha latb, opuetpper and sesame 42.2 ×oW i1li p5ae-nc dam sb t(ei8ra ½unn ct×uil r6dc-o ismnh)be Cienote owdk,ii tnthhg e aon ci lfl eofoaldrn ,d deaemp-pfr yteinag tino wweal teanr dc hleayst nitu otsn aan dfl atta rsou rufancteil .evenly mixed in. SweSepto soanu coen ea-sf ifdthes oirfe dth e1 . p r aPwene l apnrda wponrsk. (mFriexteuzree shelnlse arn dth hee eaddgse f oorf uthse sink inst, oschkasp, iinf gd eitsired.) Slit 5p.r a w ilPnenlftastoc eaaan l ordnon elgrlasig to hlnot gsa.i d Rleigoshl lo tlifyt tuohpiel e osdnh eeh ettau tripnnr ,oaonfd dfioslhd, the theirst hebeaanmc krsso dllao nawdlln tr.he Semt ewoavamey tfuhopr.e 1aIf2d –n-1leik5ce m sbsialnarucytk,e dsina otmevspeterinne sth. e





148 SOON KUEH CHINESE HERITAGE Makes 28–30 pieces Although factory-produced soon kueh are readily available from supermarkets and food stalls, the satisfaction derived from making your own soon kueh is priceless. Making your own soon kueh also means you can vary the ingredients used and the amount of filling aFdildliendg Dtor ieydo ushr iiptaekrseo nmaul stharsotoe.ms 4 Dried prawns (shrimps) 1 Tbsp Yam bean 400 g (14⅓ oz) Cooked bamboo shoots 200 g (7 oz) Cooking oil 2 Tbsp Shallots 2, peeled and thinly sliced Garlic 2 cloves, peeled and finely chopped Light soy sauce 2 Tbsp Sugar 1 tsp Salt to taste Ground white pepper to taste Light chicken or meat stock (page 33) 2 Tbsp Shaoxing rice wine a dash Dough Rice flour 250 g (9 oz) + more for dusting Tapioca starch 80 g (2⅘ oz) Water 600 ml (20 fl oz) Cooking oil 3 Tbsp + more for brushing Condiments Sweet sauce as desired All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) as desired 1. Prepare filling. Soak dried mushrooms in warm water for 30 minutes, then drain, rinse, pat dry and dice with a sharp knife. Soak dried 2pth.r ae wnH endasrta ioinni l,l uipnka eatw dwaroyrmk a onwvdea crt oemar refsoderiul y1m 5c- hhmoigipnh. u Whteeaasst,h a anndd fry peesl hyaalmlot sb, egaanrl,i ct haennd sdhrrieedd pcoraawrsnesl yf.o rSlice bam1b–2o om sihnouotets oinr tuon tthil infr asghrraendts. .Add diced mushrooms and shredded yam bean and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes. Add bamboo shoots, light soy 3. sPareupcea,r es udgoaur,g hsa. lSt,i ftp eripcpee frl,o sutro cakn da ntadp riioccea starch twoigneet.h Aerd jiunstto sae amsoixniningg btow tal,s taen.d L owwheisrk heat and cwoenltli ntou eb lferynidn.g B urinntgil wyaamte rb teoa na ibso tiel,n tdheern pour aondto mflioxutur rme iixst uarlem, ossttir rdinryg. Dwisithh oau wt aonod esnet aside





150 CHWEE KUEH CHINESE HERITAGE Makes 15–18 pieces Literally water cake in Teochew, this popular breakfast dish and snack is built on a contrast of soft, almost custard-like rice cake and succulent little bits of savoury preserved radish. Hawkers at different food stalls put their own twist on the topping—some add white sesame seeds, some are very generous with the dark soy sauce, others make it sweeter—so feel fTroepep itnog aPdrjeuset rvite dto s ayloteudr roawdins ht a(csthea. i Ap oshi)milar HT1ob5ks0kp ige n( ⅓d isohz ) sLtieqaumids laar dm (poraeg el iq3u2i)d orri cceo obkainttge ro iiln 5 iGnadrilviicd 3ua cl losveervsi,n pge ebloewdl sa,n dso m tihnacte dthe result is eDWvaaertnke rss o1oy0f t0sea rm uaclen ( d31 ½ mts pfolr eo z)fragile. Sugar ½ tsp or to taste Chwee Kueh Rice flour 190 g (6¾ oz) Tapioca starch 20 g (⅔ oz) Cornflour (cornstarch) 1½ Tbsp Lukewarm water 300 ml (10 fl oz / ¼ cups) Salt ¾ tsp Boiling water 300 ml (10 fl oz / 1¼ cups) 1. Prepare topping. Chop salted radish finely, then briefly rinse and pat dry. Heat lard or oil in a small pot over medium-low heat. When hot, add garlic and stir-fry gently for 1–2 minutes until soft, then add salted radish. 2S.t i r -Pfreyp faorre 1 c hmwineuet eku, eth.e Sni fat dridc ew faloteur, tapioca starch soy asnadu cceo rannfldo usru tgoagre. tChoevre irn taon da mcoioxkin gfor 45–60 3mof.r ca icn gaVsbursmeaotirowenoynst ol. .la toighWlvlh.ye ht,Grl iyso rvak rge d iurruneyna a ltlulslioylek w e swcaw hhhlatwieesramekdt e i,r n waks dutabiietorserhihilr in nmaigsgno sduwo lsdafatts el atwr nuidnthti loil. 4. uGStnertai lit nhs meb aowtotaetthre .t rh Liernot uybgoahut trea s rt feirneaesmt- mefore rbs 1ho ihlsiinoeguv.re, cinotvoe raed. pot. Stir with a whisk over low heat until batter only just starts to thicken. Immediately take pot off the heat and continue to stir 5. fPolar cae fmewo usledcso onnd st;h bea sttear msheoru tlrda yr,e aspcha ctehde atte xletuarset





152 ORH NEECHINESE HERITAGE Serves 6 This classic Teochew dessert made of taro paste is traditio plenty of sugar and mixed with lard for a richer taste and d pork fat is fried with garlic until the lard is rendered, then th with the steamed taro and cooked until the mixture become A thick sugar syrup is then stirred in before serving. These but nonetheless delicious rendition, you can substitute cooking Taro 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Liquid lard or cooking oil 125 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Precooked ginkgo nuts 18 Sugar Syrup Sugar 200 g (7 oz) Water 180 ml (6 fl oz / ¾ cup) 1. Wash taro well and pat dry. Slice taro across into 3-cm (1-in) thick rounds. Place rounds on a heatproof tray in a single layer and steam over high heat for 15–20 minutes, until 2. Meanwhile, prepare sugar syrup. Boil sugar and tendwear tethr rtoouggehthoeurt .in a wok, stirring, until 3. sTuragnasrf eisr csotemampleetde ltya rdoi stsoo lav eladr.g Teu rmn ioxifnf gh ebaotw. l. Peel off and discard skin. While flesh is still 4. hAodtd, mlarads ho ri tc wooitkhin ag woiol oadnedn t apreos tmlea oshr ptoo tsautogar msyarusph eirn uwnotikl .t aTruor ni so snm hoeoatth .to medium- low, and stir-fry for 5–7 minutes, stirring 5. cPolancseta 3n tglyi,n kugnoti ln ourths nine e ahcahs osfm 6o ohtehaetnpreodo fout asenrdv isntga rbtso wtol sp. uSlcl oaowpa oy rhsl ingehetl yo vfreorm a nthd el ewveolk. 6. tAThuderdn s auo rrlfhiat tcnlee. emP oloaurcete ohbnoottow w lssae tirnev rin sitgfe iaptm lsaeteer sma ansnd dd sr ytse.earvme. oAvlteerr nmateivdeiulym, shpeoaotn f oorr h1 0n emei ninuttoe sb.owls,

ORH This classic Teochew dessert made of taro paste is traditionally sweetened with plenty of sugar and mixed with lard for a richer taste and depth of flavour. Fresh pork fat is fried with garlic until the lard is rendered, then the liquid lard is mixed with the steamed taro and cooked until the mixture becomes a soft, gooey paste. A thick sugar syrup is then stirred in before serving. These days, for a healthier but nonetheless delicious rendition, you can substitute cooking oil for the lard. 500 g (1 lb 1½ oz) Liquid lard or cooking oil 125 ml (4 fl oz / Precooked ginkgo nuts 18 Sugar Syrup Sugar 200 g (7 oz) Water 180 ml (6 fl oz / ¾ cup) 1. Wash taro well and pat dry. Slice taro across into 3-cm (1-in) thick rounds. Place rounds on a heatproof tray in a single layer and steam over high heat for 15–20 minutes, until 2. Meanwhile, prepare sugar syrup. Boil sugar and tendwear tethr rtoouggehthoeurt .in a wok, stirring, until 3. sTuragnasrf eisr csotemampleetde ltya rdoi stsoo lav eladr.g Teu rmn ioxifnf gh ebaotw. l. Peel off and discard skin. While flesh is still 4. hAodtd, mlarads ho ri tc wooitkhin ag woiol oadnedn t apreos tmlea oshr ptoo tsautogar msyarusph eirn uwnotikl .t aTruor ni so snm hoeoatth .to medium- low, and stir-fry for 5–7 minutes, stirring 5. cPolancseta 3n tglyi,n kugnoti ln ourths nine e ahcahs osfm 6o ohtehaetnpreodo fout asenrdv isntga rbtso wtol sp. uSlcl oaowpa oy rhsl ingehetl yo vfreorm a nthd el ewveolk. Athded sauo rrlfhiat tcnlee. emP oloaurcete ohbnoottow w lssae tirnev rin sitgfe iaptm lsaeteer sma ansnd dd sr ytse.earvme. Aovlteerr nmateivdeiulym, shpeoaotn f oorr h1 0n emei ninuttoe sb.owls,





154 LOTUS SEED DESSERTCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 3–4 A simple and nowadays rarely-seen dessert that plays off the s lotus seeds against a sweet broth. It is worth noting that high-q expensive but worth the price for their soft, almost creamy tex comparison, smaller, low-quality seeds are harder to skin an flavour. Though not traditional, a handful of small dried longans the lotus seeds in step 5 makes a delicious touch. Dried lotus seeds, skins on 200 g (8 oz), rinsed and drained Water 650 ml (21⅔ fl oz / 2⅔ cups) Pandan leaves 3, washed and tied into a knot Unrefined brown sugar 135 g (4⅘ oz) Finely crushed rock sugar 30 g (1 oz), or to taste Sweet potato starch 30 g (1 oz), or to taste 1. Place lotus seeds in a large pot and cover with ample boiling water. Set pot over very low heat, cover and let seeds stand for 30 minutes. The water should not return to a boil. 2. Drain lotus seeds, then peel off skins. If skins are not soft enough to come away easily, let seeds stand over very low heat for 15–20 3. mSpirneuatde sl omtuosr es,e ethdesn o durta oinn aan dtr apye eolr. pWlaithe in a stwinegelez elarsy,e pr luacnkd osutet aamnd o dviesrc amrde dainuym s hoeoat in the 4. mfMoreid a1dn0lew– 2ho0ifl eme, aiccnohum tsebesie,n due.n wtila ttehre, yp aanred atenn ldeearv.es, brown sugar and rock sugar in a pot. Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat. 5. Sitmir mloetur sf osre e5d ms intuote tsh, eu nstrial isnuegda rssy rhuapv. eCover, cborimngp lteot ealy b dairses oslivmemd,e trh oevne sr trloawin hsyerautp, ainntdo a 6. lcDeliets ascnoo lovpkeo tgs.wenetelyt fpoort a1t0o mstianruchte sin. a little water to make a slurry, then add to pot, stirring constantly. Simmer for a few minutes more, until

LOTUS SEED DESSERT A simple and nowadays rarely-seen dessert that plays off the subtle, nutty flavour of lotus seeds against a sweet broth. It is worth noting that high-quality lotus seeds are expensive but worth the price for their soft, almost creamy texture when cooked. In comparison, smaller, low-quality seeds are harder to skin and have a less refined flavour. Though not traditional, a handful of small dried longans added to the pot with the lotus seeds in step 5 makes a delicious touch. Dried lotus seeds, skins on 200 g (8 oz), rinsed and drained Water 650 ml (21⅔ fl oz / cups) Pandan leaves 3, washed and tied into Unrefined brown sugar 135 g (4⅘ oz) Finely crushed rock sugar 30 g (1 oz), or to taste Sweet potato starch 30 g (1 oz), or to taste 1. Place lotus seeds in a large pot and cover with ample boiling water. Set pot over very low heat, cover and let seeds stand for 30 minutes. The water should not return to a boil. 2. Drain lotus seeds, then peel off skins. If skins are not soft enough to come away easily, let seeds stand over very low heat for 15–20 3. mSpirneuatde sl omtuosr es,e ethdesn o durta oinn aan dtr apye eolr. pWlaithe in a tswinegelez elarsy,e pr luacnkd osutet aamnd o dviesrc amrde dainuym s hoeoat in the 4. mfMoreid a1dn0lew– 2ho0ifl eme, aiccnohum tsebesie,n due.n wtila ttehre, yp aanred atenn ldeearv.es, brown sugar and rock sugar in a pot. Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat. 5. Sitmir mloetur sf osre e5d ms intuote tsh, eu nstrial isnuegda rssy rhuapv. eCover, bcorimngp lteot ealy b dairses oslivmemd,e trh oevne sr trloawin hsyerautp, ainntdo a 6. lcDeliets ascnoo lovpkeo tgs.wenetelyt fpoort a1t0o mstianruchte sin. a little water to make a slurry, then add to pot, stirring constantly. Simmer for a few minutes more, until





FESTIVAL & SPECIAL DISHES

Pig's Trotters Braised in Black Vinegar Chilli Crab

Pig's 158 Trotters 160 Braised 162 in Black 164 Vinegar 168 170 Chilli 172 Crab

158 PIG’S TROTTERS BRAISEDCHINESE HERITAGE IN BLACK VINEGAR Serves 6 Although originally a Cantonese dish, this dish is now prepar community as a confinement staple for mothers after childb protein in the trotters and eggs nourish, the sesame oil spe ginger relieves nausea and warms the body (thought to be f post-partum), the vinegar warms the body and detoxes the better a day or two after cooking. Stored refrigerated in an only touched with clean utensils, the cooked pig’s trotters w Pwige’esk ,t roift tneorst 2longer. Old ginger 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz), peeled Sesame oil 90 ml (3 fl oz / ⅜ cup) Black vinegar 750 ml (24 fl oz / 3 cups) Water 1.75 litres (56 fl oz / 7 cups) Chinese brown sugar 400 g (14⅓ oz) + more to taste Hard-boiled eggs 6, shelled Salt to taste 1. Scrape skin of pig’s trotters with a sharp knife or razor blade to remove any bristles. Wash very well and pat dry. With a heavy cleaver, 2ch. o pW tirtoht tae rcsl eianvteor ,l abrrgueis ec hguinngkse.r lightly and then slice 3. iHnetaot tsheicska mcheu nokils i.n a wok over medium heat. When hot, add ginger and stir-fry for 3–5 minutes, or until fragrant and lightly browned 4. aStc rtahpee egdinggees.r Baen dc asreesfauml neo to itlo i nletot a large pot. Pito buur rinn. vinegar, water and sugar. Bring

PIG’S TROTTERS BRAISED IN BLACK VINEGAR Although originally a Cantonese dish, this dish is now prepared across the Chinese community as a confinement staple for mothers after childbirth. The collagen and protein in the trotters and eggs nourish, the sesame oil speeds skin healing, the ginger relieves nausea and warms the body (thought to be filled with cool ‘wind’, post-partum), the vinegar warms the body and detoxes the blood. This dish tastes better a day or two after cooking. Stored refrigerated in an airtight container and only touched with clean utensils, the cooked pig’s trotters will keep for at least a Pwige’esk ,t roift tneorst 2longer. 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz), peeled Sesame oil 90 ml (3 fl oz / ⅜ cup) Black vinegar 750 ml (24 fl oz / 3 cups) 1.75 litres (56 fl oz / 7 cups) Chinese brown sugar 400 g (14⅓ oz) + more to taste Hard-boiled eggs 6, shelled Salt to taste 1. Scrape skin of pig’s trotters with a sharp knife or razor blade to remove any bristles. Wash very well and pat dry. With a heavy cleaver, 2ch. o pW tirtoht tae rcsl eianvteor ,l abrrgueis ec hguinngkse.r lightly and then slice 3. iHnetaot tsheicska mcheu nokils i.n a wok over medium heat. When hot, add ginger and stir-fry for 3–5 minutes, or until fragrant and lightly browned 4. aStc rtahpee egdinggees.r Baen dc asreesfauml neo to itlo i nletot a large pot. Pito buur rinn. vinegar, water and sugar. Bring





160 CHILLI CRABCHINESE HERITAGE Serves 2–3 Singapore has many extant versions of chilli crab—some wit sauce, others heavier on the ketchup and still others rich w egg—invented and evolved by seaside seafood restaurants in This is a simple version that emphasises the flavours of th floral heat of chilli. Live mud crab 1, weighing about 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Cooking oil 2 Tbsp Shallots 4, peeled and minced Garlic 5 cloves, peeled and minced Ginger 2-cm (¾-in) knob, peeled and minced Finely minced lemon grass 1 Tbsp Pounded galangal 2 tsp Rice wine 1 Tbsp Preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 1 Tbsp, pounded All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) 6 Tbsp Tomato ketchup 2 Tbsp 2. WSE gutuPahggnltaesaedc r ree‘2 a r1 ,2sp c i0srrdTaom0ebbn sa ’mfp olafl n,cll aoi nb(pra6 ge t¾oca ouhnt epo ftntwplah spoae1tizer n.dc grs/ a . b bPPo⅘’lusaa lrcla d ecbo u dwfcpfo r)iaatmhbn e dinit nsd. iWtshciaethrd a fresheazerpr hfoera v2y hcoleuarsv etro oirm kmniofeb,i lcisheo pa nddo wsendate it. the centre line of the crab body, cutting all the way through to the main body shell without breaking the shell. Turn crab over and 3. pHeriaset ooifl f inth ae wmoakin o bvoedr yh isghhe lhl,e aant.d A sdedt shallots, agsairdliec., Cghinogpe ro, ffle cmlaowns garnasds carancdk gtahleamng asol they aanbsdo srbti r-tfhrey sfoaru c1e– 2la mteirn. uPtuelsl , ouffn tailn sdo dftiescnaerdd and 4. ffAeradagdthr acenhrtiyl.l igA sidlaldsu, crceicr,ie nt okwlmyin aweto ha iknteed t icpnhrtueepsset iarnvneedsd saungda rd aarnkd gstouiyrt s wb feroallmn. A pbdaodsdt ewy aptnieedrc esastni.r d-Wf rayilt lh fto hare 1s hc5ra asrbpeconds. cplieeacvees.r , Ccouvte er aacnhd b coodoyk hfoarlf 2in mtoi n2u toers 3, tshmenaller 5. prTeriaemncoesfvse.e rW lciadras bahn padil el ccpoeioesk ct eofso raw asenelolr vtahinegdr p4dl–ra5ti enm,. lienauvteinsg, sgtriarrviyn gi nf rweqouke. nAtdlyj,u ustn tsiel acsraobn inisg c ofo kgeradv tyhrough awnitdh gsralvt ya nhda/s orer dsucgeadr tsoli gthastltye.. Pour beaten eggs

CHILLI CRAB Singapore has many extant versions of chilli crab—some with a more sambal-like sauce, others heavier on the ketchup and still others rich with ribbons of beaten egg—invented and evolved by seaside seafood restaurants in the 1950s and 1960s. This is a simple version that emphasises the flavours of the fresh crab and the floral heat of chilli. Live mud crab 1, weighing about 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Cooking oil 2 Tbsp 4, peeled and minced 5 cloves, peeled and minced 2-cm (¾-in) knob, peeled and minced Finely minced lemon grass 1 Tbsp Pounded galangal 2 tsp Rice wine 1 Tbsp Preserved soy bean paste (taucheo) 1 Tbsp, pounded All-purpose chilli sauce (page 30) 6 Tomato ketchup 2 Tbsp 2. utPhnlaedc ee‘2 a r1 ,2sp c i0srrdTaom0ebbn sa ’mfp olafl n,cll aoi nb(pra6 ge t¾oca ouhnt epo ftntwplah spoae1tizer n.dc grs/ a . b bPPo⅘’lusaa lrcla d ecbo u dwfcpfo r)iaatmhbn e dinit nsd. iWtshciaethrd a fresheazerpr hfoera v2y hcoleuarsv etro oirm kmniofeb,i lcisheo pa nddo wsendate it. the centre line of the crab body, cutting all the way through to the main body shell without breaking the shell. Turn crab over and 3. pHeriaset ooifl f inth ae wmoakin o bvoedr yh isghhe lhl,e aant.d A sdedt shallots, agsairdliec., Cghinogpe ro, ffle cmlaowns garnasds carancdk gtahleamng asol they aanbsdo srbti r-tfhrey sfoaru c1e– 2la mteirn. uPtuelsl , ouffn tailn sdo dftiescnaerdd and 4. ffAeradagdthr acenhrtiyl.l igA sidlaldsu, crceicr,ie nt okwlmyin aweto ha iknteed t icpnhrtueepsset iarnvneedsd saungda rd aarnkd gstouiyrt s wb feroallmn. A pbdaodsdt ewy aptnieedrc esastni.r d-Wf rayilt lh fto hare 1s hc5ra asrbpeconds. pclieeacvees.r , Ccouvte er aacnhd b coodoyk hfoarlf 2in mtoi n2u toers 3, tshmenaller 5. rpTeriaemncoesfvse.e rW lciadras bahn padil el ccpoeioesk ct eofso raw asenelolr vtahinegdr p4dl–ra5ti enm,. lienauvteinsg, sgtriarrviyn gi nf rweqouke. nAtdlyj,u ustn tsiel acsraobn inisg c ofo kgeradv tyhrough wanitdh gsralvt ya nhda/s orer dsucgeadr tsoli gthastltye.. Pour beaten eggs





162 CHINESE-STYLE FISH CHINESE HERITAGE HEAD CURRY Serves 4–6 In Singapore’s multicultural milieu, dishes and cuisines fluidly a each other. Although fish head dishes do exist in India (such as B fish head with dhal), Singapore fish head curry is said to have 1949 by an enterprising south Indian chef, Gomez, at his stall in S restaurant, Soon Heng, started serving its own rendition just a Today, Chinese cooks often steam the fish head before dressing Mpoeaacthy infigs hit hine athde, scuucrrhy aitss eslnf aypiepledrs more flavour. or grouper 1, weighing about 1–1.5 kg (2 lb 3 oz-3 lb 4½ oz) Salt for cleaning fish head Fish curry powder 3½ Tbsp Tamarind pulp 3 Tbsp Cooking oil 120 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Large onion 1, peeled and chopped Garlic 5 cloves, peeled and chopped Ginger 25 g (⅘ oz), peeled and shredded Curry leaves 3 sprigs, plucked, stems discarded Lemon grass 2 stalks, ends trimmed, leaving thickest 8-cm (3-in) only, bruised Green chillies 1–2, halved lengthwise Ladies fingers 10–12, trimmed and washed Ripe tomatoes 3, cut into quarters Long purple aubergine (eggplant/brinjal) 2. 1 , Mciuxt ciunrtroy 6p-ocwmd e(r2 .w5-itinh) abaotuotn 3s Tbhsicpk wcaotceorn tuot mfiolkrm 1 2a0 smol o(4th fpl aoszt e/, a½nd csuept) aside. EvKanpeoarda tteadm marinlkd 3p–u4l pT bwsipth 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 3. S ucHgueaparst )to owi l atiantes tare ulanrtgile p wulopk d oisvseorl vmese,d tihuemn heat. When

CHINESE-STYLE FISH HEAD CURRY In Singapore’s multicultural milieu, dishes and cuisines fluidly absorb influences from each other. Although fish head dishes do exist in India (such as Bengali muri ghonto or fish head with dhal), Singapore fish head curry is said to have been invented around 1949 by an enterprising south Indian chef, Gomez, at his stall in Sophia Road. A Chinese restaurant, Soon Heng, started serving its own rendition just a few years afterwards. Today, Chinese cooks often steam the fish head before dressing it with curry gravy, but Mpoeaacthy infigs hit hine athde, scuucrrhy aitss eslnf aypiepledrs more flavour. or grouper 1, weighing about 1–1.5 kg (2 lb 3 oz-3 lb 4½ oz) Salt for cleaning fish head Fish curry powder 3½ Tbsp Tamarind pulp 3 Tbsp Cooking oil 120 ml (4 fl oz / ½ cup) Large onion 1, peeled and chopped 5 cloves, peeled and chopped 25 g (⅘ oz), peeled and shredded Curry 3 sprigs, plucked, stems discarded Lemon grass 2 stalks, ends trimmed, leaving thickest 8-cm (3-in) only, bruised Green 1–2, halved lengthwise Ladies fingers 10–12, trimmed and washed Ripe tomatoes 3, cut into quarters Long purple aubergine (eggplant/brinjal) 2. 1 , Mciuxt ciunrtroy 6p-ocwmd e(r2 .w5-itinh) abaotuotn 3s Tbhsicpk wcaotceorn tuot form 1 2a0 smol o(4th fpl aoszt e/, a½nd csuept) aside. EvKanpeoarda tteadm marinlkd 3p–u4l pT bwsipth 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 3. cHuepast )to owi l atiantes tare ulanrtgile p wulopk d oisvseorl vmese,d tihuemn heat. When