Chinese heritage cooking

SINGAPORE HCEHRIINHCTOEAEROISGKTBAEEOGOE KS Cooking



SINGAPORE CHINECHSOEEROIKTBAOGOE KS HERITAGE Cooking CH R I STOPH E R TAN & AMY VAN Foreword by KIMBERLEY SONG

Editor: Lydia Leong Designer: Bernard Go Photographer: Hongde Photography Copyright © 2012 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited Reprinted 2013 HTheirsit abgoeo kI nisd ussutpryp oInrtceedn tuivned ePrr othgera Nmamtioen (aHl iH2Pe)ritage Board’s Published by Marshall Cavendish Cuisine An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial wetLOgTRheifeonmafilnaso:lri idrrnr(tbaet6s,eso nf 5S @ootibi)nifnke o s 6 Lgsopghi2 aakr.awm1epsbv3ptoiieatol arih r9trerusey 3i rhsn/:5e0 eagh3Ds0dl pt6li tc tsFeh1tpacahci9l:vsxa/et6e :iib/t mrno(o wd6beoi5ewsrk )sh.ow t .6Tfc. h2omWe8maa 5Prr sru4ahb8nal7itlsly1ch: a EeTv-rhem mena dAaiilksu: ehths.c oonrmo a rnedp rPeusbelnisthaetiro onf or the contents of this book and is not responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book. While the Publisher has reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not always achieve the results desired Oduthee tro M varsiahtaiolln Csa ivne inndgirsehd Oiefnfitcse, sc:ooking temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The Publisher Mshaarlsl hina lnl oC aevveenndti sbhe Cloiarbploer afotiro nan. y9 9lo Wssh oitfe p Prolafiint so rR oanady , oTtahreryr tcoowmnm NeYrcial d1a0m59a1g-e9,0 i0n1c,l uUdSinAg · bMuat rnshoat ll Climavietendd itsoh sIpnetecrinala, tiinocniadle (nTthaal,i lcaonnds)e Cqou eLtndt.i a2l,5 o3r Aostohkeer ,d 1a2mtha gFelrs, .Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand · Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn BMhadr,s hTaimll eCsa vSeunbdainsgh, iLso at 4tr6a,demark of Times Publishing Limited Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor DNaartuiol nEahls Lainb,r aMrya lBaoyasirad, Singapore Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Tan, Christopher, 1972- Chinese heritag≠ cooking / Christopher Tan & Amy Van. – Singapore : Mp. acrmsh. a–l l( CSainvgeanpdoisreh hCueirsitinagee, cc2o0o1k2b.ooks)

DEDICATION I would like to dedicate this book to all the gener left me a legacy of heritage: my parents, my gran from south China and elsewhere in South East Asi encourage every keen cook out there to record and edible heirlooms—recipes, cooking techniques, all unique to their table—so that future generations ca precious histories. I would like to dedicate this book to my pare encouragement and love. To my mother who taught cooked meals enjoyed together with the fami meaningful and memorable. Besides teaching me ho rice wine chicken dish, she is my greatest listener, To my father, who prays for the family daily and be God’s blessings, guidance and good health—thank yo fan.

I would like to dedicate this book to all the generations of relatives who left me a legacy of heritage: my parents, my grandparents, my forebears from south China and elsewhere in South East Asia. I would also like to encourage every keen cook out there to record and preserve their family’s edible heirlooms—recipes, cooking techniques, all the delicious things unique to their table—so that future generations can be bleCssherdis tboyp thheerse precious histories. Tan I would like to dedicate this book to my parents for their support, encouragement and love. To my mother who taught me that simple home- cooked meals enjoyed together with the family can be satisfying, meaningful and memorable. Besides teaching me how to perfect her Hakka rice wine chicken dish, she is my greatest listener, teacher and confidante. To my father, who prays for the family daily and before our every meal for God’s blessings, guidance and good health—thank you for being myA bmigygest fan. Van



CONTENTS 8 Foreword 10 Acknowledgements 12 Introduction 28 Basic Recipes & Techniques 40 Cantonese Dishes 76 Hainanese Dishes 94 Hakka & Foochow Dishes 112 Hokkien Dishes 132 Teochew Dishes 156 Festival & Special Dishes 176 Glossary of Ingredients 185 Menu Suggestions 186 Weights & Measures 187 Resources 188 Index 191 Photo Credits

8 FOREWORDCHINESE HERITAGE Singapore is a multi-racial migrant society. Most of the migran days of Singapore came from the southern part of China. The fiv are the Hokkiens, Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese and Hakkas. Th homes and ventured towards South E ast Asia, labouring long an survival. Whenever they missed P home, they would gather and hometown, at the same time exchanging words of familiarity an howT hmeu ceha rtlhye yi mmmisisgeradn htso mweh, oa nvde snotuurgehdt sionltaoc eS iinn gsaupcohr eg asthtaerrtien exchange and influence, and the result is a development of u dish, which still retains the distinctive flavours of the dialect grou These dishes survived through generations because of the effo unwavering determination, sought to preserve the cultural flavours Amy and Christopher are two such persons. I got acquainted with of work as a cuisine editor, and we share the same passion and Their aim is not only to perfect and enjoy the taste of food; they c the background of each and every dish, so as to deepen their appre cuisine. Their dedication to this subject is apparent in the pages o co-authored. With succinct documentation of the origin and evolut collection is full of the rich, authentic flavours of Chinese cooking recipes they are so familiar with, which include those handed geneThraisti obnoso, kd sahiloyw dsi shoews, tfoo pdr efpoar rfee sttriavdei tioocncaals iCohnisn,e tshee f odoedli cwioiuths fbaergei nanedr sm. oSrea. soned cooks will likewise find joy in perusing th accompanied by informative descriptions and explanations. This bo

OREWORD Singapore is a multi-racial migrant society. Most of the migrant Chinese in the early days of Singapore came from the southern part of China. The five major dialect groups are the Hokkiens, Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese and Hakkas. These migrants left their homes and ventured towards South E ast Asia, labouring long and hard for the sake of survival. Whenever they missed P home, they would gather and cook dishes from their hometown, at the same time exchanging words of familiarity and comfort. They shared howT hmeu ceha rtlhye yi mmmisisgeradn htso mweh, oa nvde snotuurgehdt sionltaoc eS iinn gsaupcohr eg asthtaerrtiendg s.a cultural affair of exchange and influence, and the result is a development of unique features of each dish, which still retains the distinctive flavours of the dialect group it originated from. These dishes survived through generations because of the efforts of those who, with unwavering determination, sought to preserve the cultural flavours of these special foods. Amy and Christopher are two such persons. I got acquainted with them during my course of work as a cuisine editor, and we share the same passion and enthusiasm for cuisine. Their aim is not only to perfect and enjoy the taste of food; they conscientiously research the background of each and every dish, so as to deepen their appreciation for each type of cuisine. Their dedication to this subject is apparent in the pages of this book , which they co-authored. With succinct documentation of the origin and evolution of each recipe, this collection is full of the rich, authentic flavours of Chinese cooking. They gladly share the recipes they are so familiar with, which include those handed down from previous geneThraisti obnoso, kd sahiloyw dsi shoews, tfoo pdr efpoar rfee sttriavdei tioocncaals iCohnisn,e tshee f odoedli cwioiuthsl ye afsaem aonuds ilso cpael rhfeacwt kfoer bfaergei nanedr sm. oSrea. soned cooks will likewise find joy in perusing these recipes, which are accompanied by informative descriptions and explanations. This book is truly a collector’s





ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank David Yip for his assistance, advice an production team for their help in putting this book together.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank David Yip for his assistance, advice and skills, and the production team for their help in putting this book together. Christopher Tan & Amy Van





INTRODUCTION The Chinese constitute 74.1 per cent of the population in Singapor taken in 2010 by the Singapore Department of Statistics. Amon Teochews and Cantonese form the largest dialect groups, while Foochows, Henghwas and Hokchias make up the smaller sub-grou Chinese immigrants to South East Asia were mainly from the p and Fujian in south-eastern China and subsequently Hainan Island. Early Immigrants Although there is no exact time frame when Singapore saw the arr Chinese from the mainland, there are records that date as far back the Chinese were already living on the island. A Chinese traveller Dayuan from the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) wrote about a s Danmaxi, a translation of the Malay name, Temasek, by which Sing His manuscripts dating to 1349 mention the Malay and Chinese island. Excavations in recent times, in areas such as Fort Canning, ha indicating that Singapore was an important trading port in the 14th haveIn a1ls8o1 9u nweahrethne Sdi r reSmtanmafnotrsd oRfa cffelerasm laicnsd efrdo mon t hoeu rY ushaonr eDsy, ntahse pporersceelnati.n Tphreo viisnlagn tdh ew eaxsi sttheennce p ouft eoanrl yt htera dwinogrl db emtwaepe wn hTeemn aRsaefkfl ea as a trading port for the British East India Company. This en international trade and the Chinese began to migrate here in la days, life was difficult in China due to floods, famines, droughts, u unreTshte. Sminiggraaptoioren owf atsh et hCuhsi ndeeseem toe dS inatgtarapcotrieve w baesc amuasien lyo fb yth kei n

The Chinese constitute 74.1 per cent of the population in Singapore according to a census taken in 2010 by the Singapore Department of Statistics. Among them, the Hokkiens, Teochews and Cantonese form the largest dialect groups, while the Hakkas, Hainanese, Foochows, Henghwas and Hokchias make up the smaller sub-groups. These first waves of Chinese immigrants to South East Asia were mainly from the provinces of Guangdong and Fujian in south-eastern China and subsequently Hainan Island. Early Immigrants Although there is no exact time frame when Singapore saw the arrival of its first groups of Chinese from the mainland, there are records that date as far back as the 14th century that the Chinese were already living on the island. A Chinese traveller by the name of Wang Dayuan from the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) wrote about a small settlement called Danmaxi, a translation of the Malay name, Temasek, by which Singapore was then known. His manuscripts dating to 1349 mention the Malay and Chinese residents living on the island. Excavations in recent times, in areas such as Fort Canning, have uncovered evidence indicating that Singapore was an important trading port in the 14th century. Archaeologists haveIn a1ls8o1 9u nweahrethne Sdi r reSmtanmafnotrsd oRfa cffelerasm laicnsd efrdo mon t hoeu rY ushaonr eDsy, ntahset yC haninde saen cwieenrte Cahlrineeadsey pporersceelnati.n Tphreo viisnlagn tdh ew eaxsi sttheennce p ouft eoanrl yt htera dwinogrl db emtwaepe wn hTeemn aRsaefkfl easn de sCthaibnlais.hed Singapore as a trading port for the British East India Company. This encouraged a flourishing international trade and the Chinese began to migrate here in large numbers. In those days, life was difficult in China due to floods, famines, droughts, unemployment and civil unreTshte. Sminiggraaptoioren owf atsh et hCuhsi ndeeseem toe dS inatgtarapcotrieve w baesc amuasien lyo fb yth kei neshcoipn oamndic ao pcrpeodrittu-tnicitkieest





14 CHINESE HERITAGE place, the number of Chinese arrivals escalated. By 1881, the Ch per cent of the total population on the island. In the early days, it was common to see the Chinese from specialising in certain trades and occupations. This was largely b dialect loyalty. The Chinese employers in Singapore preferred to from the same village in China and who spoke the same dial resulted in certain dialect groups monopolising certain trades. For administrative purposes and the sake of minimising dis between the people of different provinces, Raffles suggested s ethnic groups, namely the Malays, Indians and Chinese, into diffe and further subdividing the Chinese according to their dialect grou rulers set aside the area south-west of the Singapore River main location offered the Chinese easy access to the sea and hence allo develop economic activities. The Chinese community then expan Chinatown, which was then divided into different areas for differen Bumboats along the Singapore River and shophouses along the bank, 1900.

place, the number of Chinese arrivals escalated. By 1881, the Chinese accounted for 63 per cent of the total population on the island. In the early days, it was common to see the Chinese from different dialect groups specialising in certain trades and occupations. This was largely because of regional and dialect loyalty. The Chinese employers in Singapore preferred to hire those who hailed from the same village in China and who spoke the same dialect. This strong loyalty resulted in certain dialect groups monopolising certain trades. For administrative purposes and the sake of minimising disputes and disturbances between the people of different provinces, Raffles suggested segregating the various ethnic groups, namely the Malays, Indians and Chinese, into different parts of Singapore, and further subdividing the Chinese according to their dialect groups. In 1822, the British rulers set aside the area south-west of the Singapore River mainly for the Chinese. This location offered the Chinese easy access to the sea and hence allowed them to trade and develop economic activities. The Chinese community then expanded west and formed Chinatown, which was then divided into different areas for different clan groups. ng the Singapore River es along the bank, 1900.

INTRODUCTION 15 Rickshaw pullers and bullock carts along Telok Ayer Street, 1908. The Thian Hock Keng, with its pagoda-inspired roof, is the fourth building in the Various Dialect roGw rono thue rpighst. One of the earliest dialect groups that settled in Singapore in the Hokkiens who now form about 43 per cent of the Chinese pop from Zhangzhou and Quanzhou in the Fujian province, they left the of rural poverty and insufficient farming land, and were lured Nanyang, literally southern ocean) in search of greener pastures. S families migrated to Singapore to escape the turbulence of the T

Rickshaw pullers and bullock carts along Telok Ayer Street, 1908. The Thian Hock Keng, with its pagoda-inspired roof, is the fourth building in the Various Dialect roGw rono thue rpighst. One of the earliest dialect groups that settled in Singapore in the 19th century was the Hokkiens who now form about 43 per cent of the Chinese population. Largely hailing from Zhangzhou and Quanzhou in the Fujian province, they left their hometowns because of rural poverty and insufficient farming land, and were lured to South East Asia (or Nanyang, literally southern ocean) in search of greener pastures. Some Hokkien merchant families migrated to Singapore to escape the turbulence of the Taiping Rebellion, a civil

16 CHINESE HERITAGE settled in the north of Singapore where they planted gambier an these crops. Because of their trading activities, some Teochews banks of the Singapore River, Clarke Quay and Boat Quay. In Teochews also went into the fishing industry, with many of them becoming fishermen and fish wholesalers. A number also traded i The Cantonese hail from Guangzhou (Canton) in the Guang up goldsmith and jewellery shops. Hokkiens and Teochews, they were among the earliest diale Singapore and in large numbers. They make up about 17 p population in Singapore today. Their first recorded arrival was believed to have come aboard a junk from Macau. Many of them and Cantonment areas in Chinatown. The Cantonese were mostly and worked as carpenters, goldsmiths and paperwork craftsmen. S in medicine retailing. The Cantonese were considered hardworkin many Cantonese women were independent and held jobs outside was the Samsui women from Sanshui county in Guangdong, w Asia to work as labourers in construction sites, tin mines and rub 1930s and A group of Samsui women having their meal at a cons site where they work, 1954. They were easily recognisable by their red cloth hats and blue-black samfoos.

settled in the north of Singapore where they planted gambier and pepper, and exported these crops. Because of their trading activities, some Teochews also settled along the banks of the Singapore River, Clarke Quay and Boat Quay. In the later years, some Teochews also went into the fishing industry, with many of them setting up kelongs and becoming fishermen and fish wholesalers. A number also traded in poultry and fruit or set The Cantonese hail from Guangzhou (Canton) in the Guangdong province. Like the up goldsmith and jewellery shops. Hokkiens and Teochews, they were among the earliest dialects groups to arrive in Singapore and in large numbers. They make up about 17 per cent of the Chinese population in Singapore today. Their first recorded arrival was in 1821 and they were believed to have come aboard a junk from Macau. Many of them settled in the Kreta Ayer and Cantonment areas in Chinatown. The Cantonese were mostly artisans and craftsmen and worked as carpenters, goldsmiths and paperwork craftsmen. Some were also involved in medicine retailing. The Cantonese were considered hardworking and enterprising, and many Cantonese women were independent and held jobs outside the home. An example was the Samsui women from Sanshui county in Guangdong, who came to South East to work as labourers in construction sites, tin mines and rubber estates between the 1930s and A group of Samsui women having their meal at a construction site where they work, 1954. They were easily recognisable by their red cloth hats and blue-black samfoos.

INTRODUCTION 17 A traditional Chinese medical hall with rows of medicine drawers, 1986. 1950s. Many of these women chose to be spinsters, while some w husbands who did not fend for their families back home, a commo they were opium-addicts. As they had to remit money to their fam lived frugally in Chinatown’s small cubicle accommodation and meaTlsh eo fH raikceka asn (da lbsoo iKleedji av eogr eKthaebkle ws.hich mean guests or visitors) are Hans who migrated from north and central China to the south. Afte the Hakkas settled mostly in Guangdong and Fujian and those who m came mostly from these parts of China. There was already evidenc

A traditional Chinese medical hall with rows of medicine drawers, 1986. 1950s. Many of these women chose to be spinsters, while some were widows or had husbands who did not fend for their families back home, a common reason being that they were opium-addicts. As they had to remit money to their families, these women lived frugally in Chinatown’s small cubicle accommodation and survived on simple meaTlsh eo fH raikceka asn (da lbsoo iKleedji av eogr eKthaebkle ws.hich mean guests or visitors) are the descendents of the Hans who migrated from north and central China to the south. After a series of migrations, the Hakkas settled mostly in Guangdong and Fujian and those who moved to South East Asia came mostly from these parts of China. There was already evidence that the Hakkas were

18 An itinerant pork seller, 1910. CHINESE HERITAGE The Hainanese came from Hainan Island and make up 7 per Singapore today. They arrived in Singapore only around the 185 opening of Hainan Island to foreign trade. As they came later Chinese, they stayed further from the main godowns along th resided in the areas around Middle Road, Purvis Street and Beach considered the Hainanese Chinatown. As their dialect was unin Chinese groups, the Hainanese found it difficult to communicate also did not have the connections to help them get into estab worked as cooks and domestic servants for European families a

The Hainanese came from Hainan Island and make up 7 per cent of the Chinese in Singapore today. They arrived in Singapore only around the 1850s because of the late opening of Hainan Island to foreign trade. As they came later than the rest of the Chinese, they stayed further from the main godowns along the Singapore River and resided in the areas around Middle Road, Purvis Street and Beach Road, which were once considered the Hainanese Chinatown. As their dialect was unintelligible to the other Chinese groups, the Hainanese found it difficult to communicate with the others. They also did not have the connections to help them get into established trades and thus worked as cooks and domestic servants for European families and wealthy Peranakan

INTRODUCTION 19 The Henghwas and Hokchias from the southern coast of Fujia Singapore much later than the Foochows. They focused on the industry and many also became rickshaw pullers. As the work rickshaw pullers used to eat hearty meals of kang chia mee nutrition composed of yellow Hokkien noodles in a broth f (shrimps), vegetables and shallots. Among these later immigrants of STohdaanyg,h aalionnegse w iwthh om ocdaemrneis aftrioonm, thJiea nsgpxei,e chJia dnigffseur enacneds aZmheo dgrroesuspms ahkaevrse. blurred due to a government-initiated move to p

A rickshaw puller with a passenger, 1904. The Henghwas and Hokchias from the southern coast of Fujian province migrated to Singapore much later than the Foochows. They focused on the bicycle and spare parts industry and many also became rickshaw pullers. As the work was strenuous, these rickshaw pullers used to eat hearty meals of kang chia mee—a cheap and quick source of nutrition composed of yellow Hokkien noodles in a broth flavoured with prawns (shrimps), vegetables and shallots. Among these later immigrants was also a small group of STohdaanyg,h aalionnegse w iwthh om ocdaemrneis aftrioonm, thJiea nsgpxei,e chJia dnigffseur enacneds aZmheojniagn gth ea nddif fewreonrtk eddia leacst dgrroesuspms ahkaevrse. blurred due to a government-initiated move to phase out dialects and

20 CHINESE HERITAGE Traditions and Festivals The Lunar or Chinese New Year is the most important celebration in the Chinese calendar and the Chinese observe a bevy of food- related symbolisms during

An aerial view of the festivities during Chinese New Year in Chinatown, 1983. Traditions and Festivals The Lunar or Chinese New Year is the most important celebration in the Chinese calendar and the Chinese observe a bevy of food- related symbolisms during

INTRODUCTION 21 colourful lanterns and families gather to enjoy all manner of tradit with lotus seed paste, nuts and melon seeds. These days, innovati with a range of new fillings such as durian, chocolate praline, gre flavours. These moon cakes and the gift boxes in which they c businTheess Cinh iSniensgea paolsreo tcoedlaeyb.rate the Dragon Boat Festival on the month of the Chinese lunar calendar. Rice dumplings are enjoye memory of the Chinese scholar and patriot Qu Yuan who drown 296 B.C. It is said that parcels of rice wrapped in bamboo leaves river so that the fish would eat the rice instead of Qu Yuan’s groups have their own recipes for these rice dumplings, featurin types of filling. Picking out lanterns for the Mid-Autumn Festival, 2011.

colourful lanterns and families gather to enjoy all manner of traditional moon cakes filled with lotus seed paste, nuts and melon seeds. These days, innovative chefs have come up with a range of new fillings such as durian, chocolate praline, green tea and other fancy flavours. These moon cakes and the gift boxes in which they come in are a lucrative businTheess Cinh iSniensgea paolsreo tcoedlaeyb.rate the Dragon Boat Festival on the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese lunar calendar. Rice dumplings are enjoyed during this time—in memory of the Chinese scholar and patriot Qu Yuan who drowned himself in a river in . It is said that parcels of rice wrapped in bamboo leaves were thrown into the river so that the fish would eat the rice instead of Qu Yuan’s body. Different dialect groups have their own recipes for these rice dumplings, featuring various flavours and types of filling.

22 CHINESE HERITAGE Cuisine While the culinary traditions of these communities that came to Singapore from southern China can be collectively The Cantonese made their mark in Singapore’s culinary s

A row of hawker stalls Cuisine While the culinary along traditions of these Hock communities that came to Lam Street, 1975. Singapore from southern China can be collectively The Cantonese made their mark in Singapore’s culinary scene early. Spring Court,

INTRODUCTION 23 Food centres like this one at Telok Ayer were set up in the 1980s as street hawking was gradually phased out to improve hygiene control. has its origins in a raw-fish dish from south China. This multi-colo dish is composed of finely shredded fresh vegetables, pickled melon, pomelo sacs, sesame seeds, crispy crackers, and crushed paper-thin raw fish slices and dressed with plum sauce, oil and toss (lo hei) the ingredients with chopsticks as they intone wis

Food centres like this one at Telok Ayer were set up in the 1980s as street hawking was gradually phased out to improve hygiene control. has its origins in a raw-fish dish from south China. This multi-coloured and multi-textured dish is composed of finely shredded fresh vegetables, pickled ginger, candied winter melon, pomelo sacs, sesame seeds, crispy crackers, and crushed peanuts, topped with paper-thin raw fish slices and dressed with plum sauce, oil and spices. The diners then lo hei) the ingredients with chopsticks as they intone wishes for abundance and

23 CHINESE HERITAGE After the war, when jobs were scarce, the Hainanese cooks wen coffee shops and restaurants. The oldest Hainanese restaurant in Si was founded in 1935 by Mr Hai Chin and was originally located at th and North Bridge Road. This family-run restaurant changed its addres years and is now located at Landmark Village Hotel at Victoria Str Western fare, but added Chinese dishes to the menu after WWII. restaurant scene owned by the Hainanese include The Ship and Hans 1977A saidned fcroonmti nfuoeosd ,t ot hsee rHvaei nHaanineasen ewsee rpeo rakl scoh oknpos wannd f ocrh itchkeeinr tMh pchoaprucloaar lc-gafréill echda tiona sset rsvpinrega rde awsoitnha kbalyy-ap r(ipceadg ec a9s2u)a, l aW jeasmte mrna fdaere o. f e 1944, Ya Kun Kaya Toast was founded by a Hainanese, Loi Ah Koon boasts numerous branches across the island. Another famous Hain beverage scene was Ngiam Tong Boon, a bartender at the Raffles H The Teochews have a reputation for light and healthy steamed now world-famous Singapore Sling cocktail. seafood specialties such as steamed pomfret (page 144 comfort food for this dialect group is plain congee (page 138 accompaniments. The older generation of Teochews are also ve sauces to be served with dishes. For example, oyster omelette ( with fish sauce, and steamed fish with preserved soy bean paste ( ginger and vinegar dips for crabs, chilli and vinegar dips for steame orange oil for lobsters. The Teochews also have a soft spot for swe nee H(oykakmie np afsatree, ipsa dgiest i1n5g2u)i,s hae ddi sbhy ohroigmineaslplyu nfr odmish Feusj itahna,t aasr ew beilgl ao d(sistehaems eadn dd usmtewplisn gthsa, tp aagree s1e4a8s)o wnehdic hw oitrhig dinaarkte sdo fyr osmau Gceu,a nbgladcokn rgic.e powder, with gravies that are thicker and darker than Cantonese and common Hokkien dishes include the iconic Hokkien mee

After the war, when jobs were scarce, the Hainanese cooks went on to open their own coffee shops and restaurants. The oldest Hainanese restaurant in Singapore is Mooi Chin. It was founded in 1935 by Mr Hai Chin and was originally located at the corner of Purvis Street and North Bridge Road. This family-run restaurant changed its address several times over the years and is now located at Landmark Village Hotel at Victoria Street. It originally served Western fare, but added Chinese dishes to the menu after WWII. Other stalwarts of the restaurant scene owned by the Hainanese include The Ship and Hans. The Ship first opened in 1977A saidned fcroonmti nfuoeosd ,t ot hsee rHvaei nHaanineasen ewsee rpeo rakl scoh oknpos wannd f ocrh itchkeeinr tMhiacrky laarnodm taotdica yc.o Hffaenes aisn da pchoaprucloaar lc-gafréill echda tiona sset rsvpinrega rde awsoitnha kbalyy-ap r(ipceadg ec a9s2u)a, l aW jeasmte mrna fdaere o. f egg and coconut milk. In 1944, Ya Kun Kaya Toast was founded by a Hainanese, Loi Ah Koon, and the business now boasts numerous branches across the island. Another famous Hainanese in the food and beverage scene was Ngiam Tong Boon, a bartender at the Raffles Hotel who concocted the The Teochews have a reputation for light and healthy steamed dishes, soups as well as now world-famous Singapore Sling cocktail. seafood specialties such as steamed pomfret (page 144) and stir-fried crayfish. A typical comfort food for this dialect group is plain congee (page 138) served with a variety of accompaniments. The older generation of Teochews are also very particular about the sauces to be served with dishes. For example, oyster omelette (page 140) has to be served with fish sauce, and steamed fish with preserved soy bean paste (taucheo). There are also ginger and vinegar dips for crabs, chilli and vinegar dips for steamed chicken and mandarin orange oil for lobsters. The Teochews also have a soft spot for sweet desserts such as orh H(oykakmie np afsatree, ipsa dgiest i1n5g2u)i,s hae ddi sbhy ohroigmineaslplyu nfr odmish Feusj itahna,t aasr ew beilgl aosn stnaasctek,s sluikceh saoso bnr akiuseehd d(sistehaems eadn dd usmtewplisn gthsa, tp aagree s1e4a8s)o wnehdic hw oitrhig dinaarkte sdo fyr osmau Gceu,a nbgladcokn rgic.e vinegar and five-spice powder, with gravies that are thicker and darker than Cantonese and Teochew dishes. Some common Hokkien dishes include the iconic Hokkien mee (page 116), a dish of fried Hokkien

INTRODUCTION 25 Foochow kitchens are graced by home-made yellow glutinou and unusual recipes such as red wine lees chicken ( commonly consumed by Foochow women during their con childbirth. Fish balls stuffed with pork (page 108) is another classic Henghwa cuisine features noodles or mee sua (very fine d hoon (fine rice vermicelli) cooked in soup and topped with veg and seafood. Seaweed and oysters are also common ingredie similar to Hokkien food, but as the community in Singapore is rela never made an impact in either hawker or restaurant circles.

Foochow kitchens are graced by home-made yellow glutinous rice wine (page 34) and unusual recipes such as red wine lees chicken (page 96). This is a nutritious dish commonly consumed by Foochow women during their confinement period after childbirth. Fish balls stuffed with pork (page 108) is another classic Foochow dish. Henghwa cuisine features noodles or mee sua (very fine dried noodles) and bee (fine rice vermicelli) cooked in soup and topped with vegetables, peanuts, meat and seafood. Seaweed and oysters are also common ingredients. Hokchia cuisine is similar to Hokkien food, but as the community in Singapore is relatively small, the cuisine never made an impact in either hawker or restaurant circles.

26 CHINESE HERITAGE Evolution These days, traditional cuisine from the various dialect groups can only be found in a handful of old restaurants and even so, the dishes are not the same as what is available in China. Most Singaporean Chinese dishes have been improvised over the years; they bear some semblance to Thteh eye aros roifg ininteraaclt iodn iasnhd awssimhilialteion among the variou ibnlurcreod rspomoer aoft ithneg d iftfeoreunccesh ien sth euir ncuiiqsinuese, and the cros to Singapore. The cuisine ofethnic groups such as the Malays and Indians have also created d this part of the world. For example, chillies are added to liven up tanhde sa uCcehs, isnuceh sase w ictho tmhe fmamouuns diitsyh ofh cehilrli ecrab ( is considered unique byspicyIn, stwhee epta astn dd etcaandgey ogrr asvoy, , tahned i sHlaaninda nheasse a clsuor ryse reicne mcoumchp rciuseli virtue of its details, not itswinnitohv paltaivine rcichee fasn da ncdu rrtyh eg raavvya.ilability of ingredients imported fro mDishaesi nar e sreuinbtesrptreatend cweit.h aT hcoinste mcpaornary bapeproach, with no seen in dishes such assuch as foie gras, wasabi and flying fish roe adding an unexpect cdihsheics, kanedn m ordiecrne c,o okmingu tetcthoniqnu ess aondu ppresentation styles ad

Evolution These days, traditional cuisine from the various dialect groups can only be found in a handful of old restaurants and even so, the dishes are not the same as what is available in China. Most Singaporean Chinese dishes have been improvised over the years; they bear some semblance to the original dish whileThe years of interaction and assimilation among the various dialect groups have incorporating touches uniqueblurred some of the differences in their cuisines, and the cross-influences with other ethnic groups such as the Malays and Indians have also created dishes that are unique to to Singapore. The cuisine ofthis part of the world. For example, chillies are added to liven up many accompaniments the Chinese community hereand sauces, such as with the famous dish of chilli crab (page 160), which is bathed in a is considered unique byspicyIn, stwhee epta astn dd etcaandgey ogrr asvoy, , tahned i sHlaaninda nheasse a clsuor ryse reicne mcoumchp rciuselins acroyo dkievde rdsiitsyh eths asnekrsv etdo virtue of its details, not itswinnitohv paltaivine rcichee fasn da ncdu rrtyh eg raavvya.ilability of ingredients imported from all over the world. main substance. This can beDishes are reinterpreted with a contemporary approach, with non-traditional ingredients seen in dishes such assuch as foie gras, wasabi and flying fish roe adding an unexpected element to Chinese chicken rice, mutton soupdishes, and modern cooking techniques and presentation styles adding an extra twist.