Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

€70-95; aW) This five-room B&B wins plaudits 4 Villa dei Papiri Agriturismo € for its panoramic roof terrace overlooking the Valley of the Temples, and its convenient location (%0931 72 13 21; www.villadeipapiri.it; Traversa at the entrance to the old town, five minutes’ walk from the train and bus stations. Best of all is the Cozzo Pantano Testa Pisima 2/c; d €48-108, generous advice about Agrigento offered by hosts Sandra and Filippo (witness Filippo’s amazing 2-person ste €68-128, 4-person ste €98-158; Google Earth tour of nearby beaches!). p aW) Immersed in an Eden of orange groves and papyrus reeds 8km outside Syracuse, this lovely agriturismo sits next to the Fonte Ciana spring immortalised in Ovid’s Metamorphosis. Modica a Eight suites are housed in a beautifully converted 19th-century farmhouse, with 16 double rooms 4 Villa Quartarella Agriturismo € dotted around the lush grounds. Breakfast is an ITALY 6 Wonders of Ancient Sicily extra €7.50 and served in a baronial stone-walled (%360 654829; www.quartarella.com; Contrada hall. Quartarella Passo Cane 1; s €40, d €75-80, tr €85- 100, q €90-120; p aWs) Spacious rooms, Catania d welcoming hosts and ample breakfasts make this converted villa in the countryside south of Modica 5 Trattoria di De Fiore Trattoria € an appealing choice for anyone travelling by car. (%095 31 62 83; Via Coppola 24/26; meals €15- Owners Francesco and Francesca are generous 25; h7pm-12.30am Mon, 1pm-12.30am Tue-Sun) in sharing their love and encyclopedic knowledge For over 50 years, septuagenarian chef Rosanna of local history, flora and fauna and can suggest a has been recreating her great-grandmother’s multitude of driving itineraries. recipes, including the best pasta alla Norma Noto b you’ll taste anywhere in Sicily. Service can be excruciatingly slow, but for patient souls this 5 Ristorante Il is a rare chance to experience classic Catanian Modern Sicilian €€ cooking from a bygone era. Don’t miss Rosanna’s Cantuccio trademark zeppoline (sugar-sprinkled ricotta- (%0931 83 74 64; www.ristoranteilcantuccio. lemon fritters) at dessert time. it; Via Cavour 12; meals €32-36; h12.30-2pm & 7.45-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Tucked into the courtyard Taormina e of a former noble’s palace, this inviting restaurant 5 Osteria Nero D’Avola combines familiar Sicilian ingredients in inspired Sicilian €€ ways. Perennial favourites such as the exquisite (%0942 62 88 74; www.osterianerodavola. gnocchi al pesto del Cantuccio (ricotta-potato it; Piazza San Domenico 2b; meals €32-47; dumplings with basil, parsley, mint, capers, h12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, 7pm- toasted almonds and cherry tomatoes) are midnight Jul & Aug) Not only does affable owner complemented by seasonally changing specials Turi Siligato fish, hunt andCfoapratiogneCfaoprthioinsCsamptaiorntCaption such as lemon-stuffed bass with orange-fennel osteria, he’ll probably share anecdotes about the salad or white-wine-stewed rabbit with caponata. day’s bounty and play a few tunes on the piano. Here, seasonality, local producers and passion Syracuse c underscore dishes like the signature cannolo 5 Bistrot Bella Vita Italian €€ di limone Interdonato (thinly sliced Interdonato lemon with roe, tuna, tomato and chives). (%0931 46 49 38; Via Gargallo 60; sweets €1.50, 4 Hotel Villa Belvedere Hotel €€€ meals €25; hcafe 7.30am-midnight, restaurant (%0942 2 37 91; www.villabelvedere.it; Via Bagnoli noon-2.30pm & 7-10.45pm Tue-Sun) This casually Croce 79; s €70-280, d €80-380, ste €120-450; elegant cafe-restaurant is one of Ortygia’s rising hMar–late-Nov; a iWs) Built in 1902, stars. Stop by for good coffee (soy milk available) Villa Belvedere was one of Taormina’s original and made-from-scratch cornetti, biscotti and grand hotels. Well-positioned with fabulous views pastries (try the sour orange-and-almond tart). and luxuriant gardens, its highlights include a Or book a table in the intimate back dining room, swimming pool complete with century-old palm. where local, organic produce drives beautifully Rooms offer neutral hues and understated style. textured, technically impressive dishes. Parking is an extra €16 per day. 99

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1107 3107 4107 6107 7107

ANILAH/SHUTTERSTOCK © # 7Italian Riviera Curving west in a broad arc, backed by the Maritime Alps, the Italian Riviera sweeps down from Genoa through ancient hamlets and terraced olive groves to the French border at Ventimiglia. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 107 km 0 km 4 DAYS Alassio Genoa 214KM / 133 MILES The preferred holiday For big-city grit spot of presidents and glamour GREAT FOR… and artists HG # Savona lL##1 BEST TIME TO GO ##3 April, May and June Taggia ##4 for flowers and hiking; October for harvest. # # Cervo I ESSENTIAL Km ##6 PHOTO # Cascading terraces Ventimiglia of exotic flowers at Giardini Botanici San Remo Finale Ligure Hanbury. Italy’s wannabe Provides a sandy Monte Carlo shore nestled K BEST FINE 165 km between two rivers DINING 74 km Purple San Remo prawns on the terrace of San Giorgio. SLoacnaRtieomnoCVapietwionovdeerttahilesttoowgno here 101

7 Italian Riviera TRIP HIGHLIGHT The contrast between sun-washed, 1 Genoa sophisticated coastal towns and a deeply rural, mountainous hinterland, full of heritage Like Dr Jekyll and Mr farms, olive oil producers and wineries, gave Hyde, Genoa (Genova) is rise to the Riviera’s 19th-century fame, when a city with a split person- European expatriates outnumbered locals. ality. At its centre, medi- They amused themselves in lavish botanical eval caruggi (alleyways) gardens, gambled in the casino of San Remo untangle outwards to the and dined in style in fine art-nouveau villas, Porto Antico and teem much as you will on this tour. with hawkers, merchants and office workers. Along Via Garibaldi and Via XXV Aprile is another Genoa, one of Unesco- sponsored palaces, smart shops and grand archi- tectural gestures like Piazza de Ferrari with its #] Cuneo #\\ Mondovi Tanaro Bormida ·/A6 Millesimo \\# Altare Varazze #\\ #\\ ¸0SS20 PIEDMONT #]#2 Savona *²E80 #\\ Porto Vado LIGURIA Parco Naturale Monte *²A10 dell'Alta Valle (C13a8r9mmo) Pésio e Tanaro Garessio \\# #\\ Spotorno Limon\\#e Monte R #\\ Noli PiemocnteColle di R Punta Marguareis Bello (2651m) (1316m) /· #SS1 #\\3 #\\ Varigotti Tende R Balestrino Finale Ligure 0¸(1871m) \\# #\\ Loano D6204 Nava \\# Tende #\\ *² \\# Ceriale Gorges de Bergue FRANCE R Monte Lavina E80 Saccarello \\# (2200m) *²A10 #\\ Albenga Riviera Di Ponente Passo di c Teglia (1387m) #Monte R Triora \\# SS548 0¸Pietravecchia (2040m) H#Pigna #\\ p106 #\\4 Alassio \\# Montalto Ligure \\# Laigueglia Ligurian Sea Ceriana \\#Andora 20 km SS1 \\#Cervo 10 miles #]5 Imperia ¸0 *² # ·/ApricaBleai\\#ardSPo63#\\ 0¸SP64 BiMgnoonnteeR #\\ Taggia E80 (1299m) *²Dolceacqua \\# #\\ A10 E80 GF 0¸ *²12 SS20 *² ·/ #MortolaA10 SS1 #\\ Bussana ##\\ #\\7 #]6 Vecchia San Remo Km eVentimiglia Bordighera#] 0 # 0

monumental fountain, ITALY 7 Italian Rivieracentury frescoes atCattedrale di Nostra art nouveau Palazzo Cambi Cafe (www.cambi Signora Assunta (Piazza Borsa (once the city’s‚ cafe.com; Via Falamonica 9; Cattedrale; h7.30am-7.30pm) stock exchange) and h10am-11pm). survived. the neoclassical Teatro Carlo Felice (%010 538 12 5 p40, p107 But you’re not here 24; www.carlofelice.it; Passo The Drive » Exit Genoa for the architecture – Eugenio Montale 4). you’re here for the food. westward, through a tangle of The covered market (Via Join the well-dressed flyovers and tunnels to access Pietro Giuria; h7am-1.30pm haute bourgeoisie the A10 for the first 56km drive Mon-Sat) is crammed with enjoying high-profile art to Savona. Once out of the fruit-and-veg stalls and exhibits in the grand suburbs the forested slopes fish stands stacked with Mannerist halls of the of the Maritime Alps rise to salt cod. Grigiomar (Via Palazzo Ducale (www. your right and sea views peep Pietro Giuria 42r; h9am-6pm palazzoducale.genova.it; out from the left as you duck Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) salts through tunnels. its own local anchovies. Piazza Giacomo Matteotti Then there are the local 2 Savona amaretti biscuits, made 9; price varies by exhibition; with bitter and sweet hhours vary), then retire Don’t be put off by almonds, available at to sip spritz amid Ber- Savona’s horrifying Pasticceria Besio (www. nardo Strozzi’s 17th- industrial sprawl; the amarettibesio.com; Via Savonesi were a powerful ·/158km to A26 maritime people and the Sormano 16r; h2.30-7pm GF /·/·LlLl#·/ /··/ #ze town centre is unexpect- Mon, 9am-7pm Tue-Sat), and A\\#rVe2onAltz#\\rraeiAnn#\\2o6zanP\\#Voe\\#oglAltPir1ei0#\\gSAlSi110 SS1 edly graceful. Standing the farinata di grano near the port are three (wheat-flour pancakes) Ge^#Gn1eona#^o1 a of the many medieval at Vino e Farinata (Via Pia towers that once stud- 15; meals €20; h11am-10pm ze ded the cityscape. As Tue-Sat). Genoa’s greatest rival GGoenlfooGGvdoeanlifoovdai the town was savagely The Drive » Rejoin the A10 and sacked in 1528, the castle dismantled and most of leave the industrial chimneys the population slaugh- of Savona behind you. For the tered, but somehow the first 13km the A10 continues Fortezza del Priamàr with views of the sea, then at (Piazza Priamar) and the Spotorno it ducks inland for the final 15km to the Finale Ligure exit. Descend steeply for 3km to the Finale hamlets on the coast. LINK c Riviera Crossing YOUR Roll right on into TRIP France for more beaches, glam cities and glitering 2 The Graceful seascapes Italian Lakes Heading north from Genoa you’re soon in the land of refreshing lakes and mountains. 103

RGLINSKY/GETTY IMAGES ©TRIP HIGHLIGHThawk seasonal delicacies and vintages. ITALY 7 Italian Riviera3 Finale Ligure On Thursday it’s worth Finale Ligure comprises driving 9km up the coast in 1787 and Edward several seaside districts. to picturesque Noli for Elgar composed In the The marina is narrow the weekly outdoor mar- South inspired by his and charming, spreading ket on Corso d’Italia. stay in 1904. Il Muretto, along the sandy shore a ceramic-covered wall, between two small rivers, 5 4 p107 records the names of 550 the Porra and the Sciusa. The Drive » Once again take celebrities who’ve passed East of the Sciusa is through. Finale Ligure Pia, where the high road away from the you’ll find Alimentari coast and follow the A10 for a Follow the local lead Magnone (Via Moletti 17), further 35km to Alassio. Near and promenade along which stocks excellent Albenga you’ll cross the river Via XX Settembre or the extra virgin olive oils Centa and the broad valley unspoilt waterfront. Take from local growers. where dozens of hothouses dot coffee at Antico Caffè Nearby the Benedic- the landscape. Pasticceria Balzola (www. tine abbey houses the balzola1902.com; Piazza Azienda Agricola Apiario TRIP HIGHLIGHT Matteotti 26; h9am-midnight Benedettino (Via Santuario Tue-Sun) and enjoy gelato 59; h9am-12.30pm Mon-Sat), 4 Alassio on the beach beneath a where you can buy honey, stripy umbrella. grappa and organic Less than 100km from beauty products. the French border, Alas- 4 p107 sio’s popularity among At the other end of the 18th- and 19th- town, Finalborgo is the century jet set has left it old medieval centre. with an elegant colonial Each year in March, character. Its pastel-hued Finalborgo’s cloisters villas range around a are home to the Salone broad, sandy beach, dell’Agroalimentare Lig- which stretches all the ure, where local farmers way to Laigueglia (4km to the south). American president Thomas Jef- ferson holidayed here SAN GIORGIO Cult restaurant San Giorgio (%0183 40 01 75; www. ristorantesangiorgio.net; Via A Volta 19, Cervo; meals €40-60; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Mon, closed Jan) has been quietly wowing gourmets with its authentic Ligurian cooking since the 1950s when mother-and-son team Caterina and Alessandro opened the doors of their home in the borgo (medieval town) of Cervo Alta. Dine out on the bougainvillea-draped terrace in summer, or in intimate dining rooms cluttered with family silverware and antiques in winter. Below the restaurant, in an old oil mill, is the less formal wine bar and deli San Giorgino. 104

Genoa Fountain in the Piazza de Ferrari The Drive » If you have Dante, with its arcaded West of Oneglia is walkways, is a pleasant pirate haven Porto Mau- time take the scenic coast place to grab a coffee. rizio, perched on a rocky road, SS1 (Via Roma), from This is also where the spur that overlooks a Alassio through Laigueglia and great olive-oil dynasties yacht-filled harbour. Marina di Andora to Imperia. made their name. Visit It is a shorter and more scenic the Museo dell’Olio (www. The Drive » Rejoining the A10 jaunt when traffic is light. The museodellolivo.com; Via alternative, when traffic is heavy, at Imperia, the landscape begins is to head back to the A10. Garessio 13; adult/reduced to change. The olive terraces are dense, spear-like cypresses 5 Imperia €5/2.50; h9am-12.30pm & and umbrella pines shade 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat), housed the hillsides, and the fragrant Imperia consists of two in a lovely art-nouveau maquis (Mediterranean scrub) small seaside towns, mansion belonging to is prolific. Loop inland around Oneglia and Porto Maur- the heritage Fratelli Carli Taggia and then descend slowly izio, on either side of the factory. The museum is into San Remo. Impero river. surprisingly extensive and details the history TRIP HIGHLIGHT Oneglia, birthplace of the Ligurian industry of Admiral Doria, the from the 2nd century BC. 6 San Remo Genoese Republic’s Buy quality oil here or greatest naval hero, is anywhere in town. San Remo, Italy’s wan- the less attractive of the nabe Monte Carlo, is a two, although Piazza sun-dappled Mediterra- nean resort with a grand 105

ITALY 7 Italian Riviera DETOUR: 7 Ventimiglia L’ENTROTERRA Despite its enviable posi- Start: 7 Ventimiglia tion between the glitter of San Remo and the The designation ‘Riviera’ omits the pleated, Côte d’Azur, Ventimiglia mountainous interior – l’entroterra – that makes is a soulful but disorderly up nine-tenths of Liguria. Harried by invasions, border town, its Roman coast-dwellers took to these vertical landscapes past still evident in its over a thousand years ago, hewing their perched bridges, amphitheatre villages from the rock face of the Maritime Alps. You’ll and ruined baths. Now want to set aside two extra days to drive the coiling it’s the huge Friday mar- roads that rise up from Ventimiglia to Dolceacqua, ket (h8am-3pm Fri) that Apricale and Pigna. If you do make the effort, book draws the crowds. into gorgeous boutique hotel Apricus Locanda (%339 6008622; www.apricuslocanda.com; Via IV Novembre If you can’t find a sou- 5, Apricale; s/d €95/105; ps); it’s worth it for the venir here then consider breakfast and see-forever panoramas. one of the prized artisa- nal honeys produced by belle-époque casino (www. Beyond the waterfront, Marco Ballestra (%0184 casinosanremo.it; Corso de- San Remo hides a little- 35 16 72; www.ilmieledel gli Inglesi) and lashings of visited old town, a laby- brichetto.it; Via Girolamo Rossi Riviera-style grandeur. rinth of twisting lanes 5), which has hives in that cascade down the the hills above the Valle During the mid- Ligurian hillside. Curling Roya. There are over a 19th century the city around the base is the dozen different types. became a magnet for Italian Cycling Riviera, a European exiles such as path that tracks the coast To end the tour head Czar Nicolas of Russia, as far as Imperia. For over to the pretty west- who favoured the town’s bike hire, enquire at the ern suburb of Ponte San balmy winters. They tourist office (www.visit Ludovico to the Giardini built an onion-domed rivieradeifiori.it; Largo Nuvoloni Botanici Hanbury (www. 1; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am- giardinihanbury.com; Corso Russian Orthodox 1pm Sun; c). Montecarlo 43; adult/reduced church (Via Nuvoloni 2; €1; €9/7.50; h9.30am-6pm), h9.30am-noon & 3-6pm) 5 4 p107 the 18-hectare estate of reminiscent of Moscow’s English businessman St Basil’s Cathedral, The Drive » For the final 17km Sir Thomas Hanbury; which still turns heads he planted it with an down by the seafront. stretch to Ventimiglia take the extravagant 5800 bo- Swedish inventor Alfred SS1 coastal road, which hugs tanical species from five Nobel also maintained the base of the mountains continents. a villa here, the Villa and offers uninterrupted sea Nobel (Corso Felice Cavallotti views. In summer and at Easter, 5 p107 112; adult/reduced €5.50/4; however, when traffic is heavy, your best bet is the A10. h10am-12.30pm Tue-Thu, 10am-12.30pm & 5-8pm Fri-Sun Jun-Sep), which now houses a museum dedicated to him. 106

Eating & Sleeping Genoa 1 Alassio 4 5 Il Marin Seafood €€€ 4 Villa della Boutique Hotel €€€ (Eataly Genova; %010 869 87 22; www.eataly. Pergola net; Porto Antico; meals €50; hnoon-3pm & (%0182 64 61 30; www.villadellapergola.com; 7-10.30pm) Eating by the water often means a Via Privata Montagu 9/1; d from €315; p s) compromise in quality, but Eataly’s 3rd-floor Sitting in a tropical garden that rivals the ITALY 7 Italian Riviera fine-dining space delivers both panoramic port famous Villa Hanbury, Villa della Pergola was the views and Genoa’s most innovative seafood home of eminent Victorian, General McMurdo. menu. Rustic wooden tables, Renzo Piano– He bought the plot in 1875 and designed the blessed furniture and an open kitchen make villa in Anglo-Indian style with large airy rooms, for an easy, relaxed glamour, while dishes use broad verandahs and cascading terraces with unusual Mediterranean-sourced produce and peerless sea views. look gorgeous on the plate. Finale Ligure 3 San Remo 6 5 Osteria ai Cuattru Canti Osteria € 5 Ristorante Urbicia Vivas Ligurian €€ (Via Torcelli 22; set menus €20; hnoon-2pm (%0184 57 55 66; Piazza Dolori 5; meals €30; & 8-10pm Tue-Sun) Simple and good Ligurian h10.30am-midnight) Basking in a quiet specialities are cooked up at this rustic place in medieval square in San Remo’s remarkable old Finalborgo’s historic centre. town, Urbicia is slavishly faithful to old Ligurian recipes with a strong bias towards seafood. 4 Val Ponce Agriturismo € There’s a €12 lunch deal and Friday night is risotto night. (%329 3154169; www.valleponci.it; Val Ponci 4 Hotel Liberty Hotel € 22, Localita Verzi; d/apt €85/165) Only 4km from the beach, Val Ponce feels deliciously wild, (%0184 50 99 52; www.hotellibertysanremo. tucked away in a rugged Ligurian valley. Horses com; Rondò Garibaldi 2; s €55, d €85-100; graze, grapevines bud and the restaurant turns p a) A 10-room hotel is set in a Liberty-style out fresh Ligurian dishes, with vegetables villa off a small traffic circle about 100m from and herbs from a kitchen garden. On weekend the train station. It’s quiet, clean and run by evenings and Sunday lunch, there’s live music helpful young owners. or classic vinyl. Rooms are simple but show the keen eye of the Milanese escapee owners. 4 Hotel Florenz Hotel €€ Ventimiglia 7 (%019 69 56 67; www.hotelflorenz.it; Via Celesia 5 Pasta & Basta Ligurian € 1; s/d €86/132; hclosed Nov & Feb; p i s) (%0184 23 08 78; www.pastaebastaventimiglia. This rambling 18th-century former convent just com; Via Marconi 20; meals €20; hnoon-3pm outside Finalborgo’s village walls (800m from & 7-10pm Tue-Sun, lunch only Mon) Duck into the sea) is simple and homey but one of the the underpass near the seafront on the border area’s most atmospheric spots to sleep. side of town to the perpetually redeveloping port area. Various house-made fresh pasta can be mixed and matched with a large menu of sauces, including a good pesto or salsa di noci (walnut purée), and washed down with a carafe of pale and refreshing Pigato, a local white. 107

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd NEED TO Climate KNOW Dry climate CURRENCY Warm to hot summer, mild winter Euro (€) Warm to hot summer, cold winter LANGUAGE Mild summer, cold winter Italian # Cold climate VISAS GO Dec–MMilaarn(skiing), # Generally not required for Jan & Sep stays of up to 90 days (or SVGeeOpnF–iceNebo–vMar & at all for EU nationals); some nationalities need a JGuOl &RANporom–veM–Daey,c Schengen visa. # FUEL Naples You’ll find filling stations GO May–Jun # on autostradas and major roads. Reckon on €1.49 for a & Sep litre of unleaded petrol and €1.33 for diesel. Palermo GO Sep–Oct HIRE CARS # Avis (www.avis.com) Europcar (www.europcar. When to Go com) High Season (Jul–Aug) »»Queues at big sights and on the road, especially in August. Hertz (www.hertz.it) »»Prices also rocket for Christmas, New Year and Easter. Maggiore (www.maggiore.it) »»Late December to March is high season in the Alps and IMPORTANT NUMBERS Dolomites. Ambulance (%118) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct) Emergency (%112) »»Good deals on accommodation, especially in the south. Police (%113) »»Spring is best for festivals, flowers and local produce. Roadside Assistance »»Autumn provides warm weather and the grape harvest. (%803 116; %800 116 Low Season (Nov–Mar) 800 from a foreign mobile »»Prices up to 30% less than in high season. phone) »»Many sights and hotels closed in coastal areas. »»A good period for cultural events in large cities. 108

Daily Costs B&Bs Rooms in restored Capodichino Airport Budget: Less than €100 farmhouses, city townhouses or (Naples) »»Dorm bed: €15–30 seaside bungalows. »»Double room in a budget hotel: Rental cars Contact agencies Agriturismi Farmstays range via an intercom in the Arrivals €50–110 from working farms to luxury hall. rural retreats. Buses Run every 20 minutes »»Pizza or pasta: €6–12 from 6am to 11.40pm. Room Tax A nightly occupancy Taxis Set fare €16 to €23; 30 Midrange: €100–250 tax is charged on top of room minutes. »»Double room in a hotel: rates. Mobile Phones (Cell €110–200 Price indicators for a double Phones) room with private bathroom »»Local restaurant dinner: (breakfast included) in high Local SIM cards can be used in season: European, Australian and some €25–50 unlocked US phones. Other € less than €110 phones must be set to roaming. »»Admission to museum: €4–15 €€ €110–200 Internet Access Top End: More than €250 €€€ more than €200 Free wi-fi is available in most »»Double room in a four- or five- hotels, B&Bs, pensioni etc and in Arriving in Italy many bars and cafes. star hotel: €200–450 Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) Airport Money »»Top restaurant dinner: (Rome) ATMs at every airport, most train €50–150 Rental cars Agencies are stations and widely available in located near the multilevel car towns and cities. Credit cards »»Opera ticket: €40–200 park. accepted in most hotels and restaurants. Eating Trains & buses Run every 30 minutes from 6.23am to Tipping Restaurants (Ristoranti) 11.23pm. Formal service and refined Not obligatory but round up the dishes, with prices to match. Night buses Departures at bill in pizzerias and trattorias; Trattorias Informal, often 1.15am, 2.15am, 3.30am and 10% is normal in upmarket family-run, places with classic 5am. restaurants. regional cooking. Vegetarians Most places offer Taxis Set fare to centre €48; 45 Useful Websites good vegetable starters and side minutes. dishes. Italia (www.italia.it) Price indicators for a two-course Malpensa Airport Comprehensive tourism site. meal with a glass of house wine (Milan) Michelin (www.viamichelin.it) and coperto (cover charge). A useful route planner. Rental cars Agencies in the Agriturismi (www.agriturismi. € less than €25 Arrivals sections of Terminals it) Guide to farmstays. €€ €25–45 1 and 2. Lonely Planet (www. €€€ more than €45 lonelyplanet.com/italy) Trains & buses Run every Destination lowdown. Sleeping 30 minutes from 5.45am to 11.30pm. 109 Hotels From luxury boutique palaces to modest family-run Night buses Limited services pensioni (small hotels). from 12.15am to 5am. Taxis Set fare €90; 50 minutes.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language Italian sounds can all be found in English. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be understood. Note that ai is pronounced as in ‘aisle’, ay as in ‘say’, ow as in ‘how’, dz as the ‘ds’ in ‘lids’, and that r is strong and rolled. If the consonant is written as a double letter, it’s pronounced a little stronger, eg sonno son·no (sleep) versus sono so·no (I am). The stressed syllables are indicated with italics. BASICS How much is it per night/person? Quanto costa per kwan·to kos·ta per Hello. una notte/persona? oo·na no·te/per·so·na Goodbye. Buongiorno. bwon·jor·no Yes./No. Arrivederci. a·ree·ve·der·chee DIRECTIONS Excuse me. Sì./No. see/no Sorry. Mi scusi. mee skoo·zee Where’s …? do·ve … Please. Mi dispiace. mee dees·pya·che Dov’è …? Thank you. Per favore. per fa·vo·re Grazie. gra·tsye Can you show me (on the map)? Può mostrarmi pwo mos·trar·mee (sulla pianta)? (soo·la pyan·ta) You’re welcome. pre·go EATING & DRINKING Prego. Do you speak English? What would you recommend? Parli inglese? par·lee een·gle·ze Cosa mi consiglia? ko·za mee kon·see·lya I don’t understand. Non capisco. non ka·pee·sko I’d like …, please. Vorrei …, per favore. vo·ray … per fa·vo·re How much is this? Quanto costa questo? kwan·to kos·ta kwe·sto I don’t eat (meat). Non mangio (carne). non man·jo (kar·ne) Please bring the bill. mee por·ta eel kon·to Mi porta il conto, ACCOMMODATION per favore? per fa·vo·re Do you have a room? a·ve·te oo·na ka·me·ra Avete una camera? EMERGENCIES Want More? Help! a·yoo·to Aiuto! mee so·no per·so/a For in-depth language information I’m lost. mee sen·to ma·le and handy phrases, check out Lonely Mi sono perso/a. (m/f) kya·mee la po·lee·tsee·a Planet’s Italian Phrasebook. You’ll I’m ill. kya·mee oon me·dee·ko find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or Mi sento male. you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone Call the police! phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. Chiami la polizia! Call a doctor! Chiami un medico! 110

windscreen petrol parabrezza benzina pa·ra·bre·dza ben·dzee·na battery batteria tyre ba·te·ree·a gomma engine motore go·ma mo·to·re headlight fanale fa·na·le ON THE ROAD Does that include mileage? E’ compreso il e kom·pre·so eel chilometraggio? kee·lo·me·tra·jo I’d like to Vorrei vo·ray hire a/an ... noleggiare ... no·le·ja·re ... What’s the city/country speed limit? Qual’è il limite di kwa·le eel lee·mee·te dee 4WD un fuoristrada oon fwo·ree·stra·da velocità in ve·lo·chee·ta een automatic/ una macchina oo·na ma·kee·na città/campagna? chee·ta/kam·pa·nya manual automatica/ ow·to·ma·tee·ka/ manuale ma·noo·a·le Is this the road to (Venice)? Questa strada porta kwe·sta stra·da por·ta motorbike una moto oo·na mo·to a (Venezia)? a (ve·ne·tsya) How much Quanto kwan·to (How long) Can I park here? is it …? costa ...? kos·ta ... (Per quanto tempo) (per kwan·to tem·po) Posso parcheggiare qui? po·so par·ke·ja·re kwee daily al giorno al jor·no Where’s a service station? weekly alla settimana a·la se·tee·ma·na Dov’è una stazione do·ve oo·na sta·tsyo·ne di servizio? dee ser·vee·tsyo Does that include insurance? E’ compresa e kom·pre·sa Please fill it up. l’assicurazione? la·see·koo·ra·tsyo·ne Il pieno, per favore. eel pye·no per fa·vo·re I’d like (30) litres. vo·ray (tren·ta) lee·tree Vorrei (trenta) litri. Signs Please check the oil/water. Può controllare l’olio/ pwo kon·tro·la·re lo·lyo/ Alt Stop l’acqua, per favore? la·kwa per fa·vo·re Dare la Precedenza Give Way I need a mechanic. Ho bisogno di un o bee·zo·nyo dee oon Deviazione Detour meccanico. me·ka·nee·ko Divieto di Accesso No Entry The car/motorbike has broken down. Entrata Entrance La macchina/moto si la ma·kee·na/mo·to see è guastata. e gwas·ta·ta Pedaggio Toll Senso Unico One Way I had an accident. o a·voo·to oon Ho avuto un een·chee·den·te Uscita Exit incidente. 111

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Largo di Torre Argentina YOUR LEGS ROME Start in Largo di Torre Argentina, a busy square easily reached by bus. In its Start/Finish: Largo di Torre sunken central area, the Republican-era Argentina templesdate to between the 2nd and 4th Distance: 1.7km centuries BC. On the piazza’s western Duration: Three hours flank, Teatro Argentina, Rome’s premier theatre, stands near the spot where The best way to explore Rome’s Julius Caesar was assassinated in 44 BC. historic centre, much of which is closed to unauthorised traffic, is The Walk » From the square, head east along on foot. Park near Stazione Termini, then head into the centre by bus. As Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to Piazza del Gesù. you walk you’ll discover picturesque cobbled lanes, showboating piazzas, Chiesa del Gesù basilicas and ancient ruins. The landmark Chiesa del Gesù (www. Take this walk on Trips chiesadelgesu.org; Piazza del Gesù; h7am- 12.30pm & 4-7.45pm, St Ignatius rooms 4-6pm 12 Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun) is Rome’s most im- portant Jesuit church. Behind its impos- ing facade is an awe-inspiring baroque interior. Headline works include the swirling vault fresco by Il Baciccia and Andrea del Pozzo’s opulent tomb for Ignatius Loyola, the Jesuits’ founder. The Walk » Cross Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and follow Via del Gesù north. Then turn left onto Via Santa Caterina da Siena. Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva Trumpeted by Bernini’s much-loved Elefantino statue, this basilica (www. santamariasopraminerva.it; Piazza della Minerva 42; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sat, 8am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sun) is Rome’s only Gothic church. However, lit- tle remains of the original 13th-century structure and these days the main draw- card is a minor Michelangelo sculpture and its colourful, art-rich interior. The Walk » From the basilica, it’s an easy stroll up Via della Minerva to Piazza della Rotonda. Pantheon A remarkable 2000-year-old temple, now church, the Pantheon (www.pantheon roma.com; Piazza della Rotonda; h8.30am- 7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) is the best preserved of Rome’s ancient monuments. Built by Hadrian over Marcus Agrippa’s earlier 27 BC temple, it has stood since around AD 125. t’s an exhilarating 112

J%CVVioaiaVrdisdaeFoePldalGe0000000000i00VrPaioneCiz00000v000000000tel#alzteespoa000000000g00000repPFrrneiai0000n0000000000aololVoraliVcn0000000000a00000E00000rGidezmeai00000000000000000000000lczlsoacoe00000000000000000000000hnPSCiuio000000000000000000000000aaaennzC000000000000000000000000czlit#enae'hdAC0000000000000000000000l000AdIilegeeIaegn'rs0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000limolaeFaan000000000000000000000000000000000000000sidpoeei000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000oriN000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Pai0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000av#PSz0000000000000000000000000000o0000000000000000000000000000000aizanCn000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000azaVazPnia000000000000000000000000000aaendsd000000000000000titeaCrial000000000000000eoroir0000000000000000000sVoi000000000000000aVd0000000000000i0000000tetio000000000000000Srie000000odiE000000amrSi aaVnnituaP'EeiGaulCSezisruaztIeaalsIistctcaihne00000000000000Pidnoiaeeaz000000000000000000#niini000000000000000000000000000thR0000000000000000000000ePo›#d000000000000000000000oi#taeo#nz000000000000000000000lALnlzaVadra000000000000000000000000000igraag0000000000000000000000000eSVodanCV0000000000000000niaEiatoPMdatmiVSra000000000000000000000idnidisaiinCaeeaeToa#z00000000000000000neanllzdolVtaSruaa0000000000eBSSevireertPairdiatoalm00000niePeogensaparinIl0000000000000000nitiIlrsaolaaaait0000000000000000cirdniMMa0Poei00000000000000000000000000.ila1adiGn000000000000000000000000000000000zrmiezVeisa000000000000000000000000000000000idairùl0aPeiv.V00000000000000000000000000000000000sMd2Cdlae#ieaeak00000000000000h0000000000blmrlidiPms00000000000000000000000000e000Geicsèol000000000000000e00000000000000iatso00000000000000000000000000000ù¤#00000000000000000000000000000Corso del RinascimentoDogVaianadeVlelacchiaVia della Minerva SaVniaPadni taleo Via Monterone Via dei Cestari Via dei Baullari Via del Gesù Via del B iscione VAiragdeinTtionrareVia del'Arco Via d'Aracoeli Via Celsade Ginnasi experience to pass through its vast markets, while at night it morphs into bronze doors and gaze up at the largest a raucous open-air pub. Amidst the unreinforced concrete dome ever built. chaos look out for a sinister statue of a hooded monk. This is the heretic The Walk » Follow the signs to Piazza Navona, philosopher Giordano Bruno who was burned at the stake here in 1600. stopping en route for a quick coffee at Caffè Sant’Eustachio (Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82; The Walk » Head up to Piazza Farnese, a matter h8.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, to 2am Sat). of metres away. Piazza Navona With its ornate fountains, baroque Palazzo Farnese palazzi (mansions) and colourful cast of street artists, hawkers and tour- The formidable Palazzo Farnese ists, Piazza Navona is central Rome’s (www.inventerrome.com; Piazza Farnese; €9; elegant showpiece square. Its grand centrepiece is Bernini’s Fontana dei hguided tours 3pm, 4pm & 5pm Mon, Wed & Quattro Fiumi, an ornate, showy foun- Fri) is one of Rome’s finest Renaissance tain featuring personifications of the buildings. Now home to the French rivers Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plate. Embassy, it can only be visited on a guided tour (for which you need to The Walk » Exit the piazza to the south, cross pre-book; see the website for details), but it’s worth it to marvel at a series of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and continue up Via frescoes by Annibale Carracci that are dei Baullari. said by some to rival Michelangelo’s in the Sistine Chapel. Campo de’ Fiori The Walk » To get back to Largo di Torre Noisy, colourful Campo de’ Fiori is a major focus of Roman life: by day Argentina, double back to Corso Vittorio Emanuele it hosts one of Rome’s best-known II and head right. 113

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Galleria dell’Accademia YOUR LEGS FLORENCE Before heading into the heart of the historic centre, take time to salute Flor- Start/Finish: Galleria ence’s fabled poster boy. Michelangelo’s dell’Accademia David (1504), arguably the most famous Distance: 2.5km sculpture in the Western world, stands Duration: One day in all his naked glory in the Galleria dell’Accademia (www.firenzemusei.it; Via To get the best out of Florence Ricasoli 60; adult/reduced €8/4, incl temporary (Firenze), park your car at Piazza exhibition €12.50/6.25; h8.15am-6.50pm della Libertà, and head into the Tue-Sun). He originally guarded Palazzo city’s historic centre on foot. This Vecchio but was moved here in 1873. tour provides a great introduction to the city, passing through its The Walk » From the gallery, head south along headlining piazzas, basilicas and galleries. Via Ricasoli, past the Carabé gelateria, down to Via de’ Pucci. Turn right, skirting past Palazzo Pucci, Take this walk on Trips as you continue on to Piazza San Lorenzo. 123 Basilica di San Lorenzo A fine example of Renaissance archi- tecture, the Basilica di San Lorenzo (Piazza San Lorenzo; €5, incl Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana €7.50; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 1.30-5pm Sun winter) is best known for its Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy). Around the corner, at the rear of the basilica, the Museo delle Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels; www.firenzemusei. it; Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini 6; adult/ reduced €6/3; h8.15am-1.50pm, closed 2nd & 4th Sun & 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month) has some exquisite Michelangelo sculptures. The Walk » From Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, head down Via de’ Conti and its continuation Via F Zanetti to Via de’ Cerretani. Hang a left and soon you’ll see Piazza del Duomo ahead. Duomo Florence’s 14th-century Duomo (www. operaduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del Duomo; h10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 4pm Thu, to 4.45pm Sat, 1.30-4.45pm Sun) is the city’s most iconic landmark with its pink, white and green marble facade and red-tiled dome (adult/reduced incl cupola, baptistry, campanile, crypt & museum €15/3; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5.40pm Sat). Nearby, you can climb the campanile (h8.30am-7.30pm) and admire the bas- reliefs on the 11th-century Battistero (Baptistry; h11.15am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am- 2pm Sun & 1st Sat of month). 114

The Walk » It’s a straightforward 400m or so e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles down Via dei Calzaiuoli to Piazza della Signoria. Piazza della Piazza della Signoria Indipendenza This lovely cafe-lined piazza is over- Via San Gallo looked by the Torre d’Arnolfo, the high J%Piazza point of Palazzo Vecchio (www.musefirenze Via dell'Arient Piazza Via de' Ginori 0000000 .it; museum adult/reduced €10/8, tower €10/8, Madonna Via Ricasoli San Marco ›# museum & tower €14/12, guided tour €4; Galleria hmuseum 9am-11pm Fri-Wed, to 2pm Thu, tower degli 9am-9pm Fri-Wed, to 2pm Thu, shorter hours dell'Accademia # winter), Florence’s medieval City Hall. It 0000000Via0000000dedl000000000000eC'aN000000000000netloli000000000000o000000000000AdB#000000000000lida000000000000Sosbia000000000000lrinac000000000000nad000000000000SPinai000000000000ainzza still houses the mayor’s office but you Palazzo can visit its lavish apartments. Lorenzo Lorenzo Pucci FVZiaanetti The Walk » To get to the Galleria degli Uffizi Via de'Conti Via de' Pucci takes a matter of seconds, although we can’t Via de' Cerreta000000000ni000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000D0000000000000u0000000000000om0000000000000#o000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000DPui000000000000000daoezm0000000000000lzao vouch for how long it’ll take to get inside. The Via dei Calzaiuoli SANTA gallery is just off the piazza’s southeastern corner, 00000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000 CROCE in a grey porticoed palazzo (mansion). 000000000000 Galleria degli Uffizi 00000000 The Uffizi (www.uffizi.beniculturali.it; Piazzale 00000000V0000000ia L000am0000000be0000rt00000000000es00000000000ca00000000000##0000000000000000(GSPU0000000000000000aiifaglf0000000000000000lzniezz0000000000000000roiairaGidaDaelelllegarlyi )Uffizi degli Uffizi 6; adult/reduced €8/4, incl temporary Via Por Santa Maria exhibition €12.50/6.25; h8.15am-6.50pm Tue- dePgiliazUzffailzei Sun) boasts one of Italy’s greatest art col- # Ponte Lungarno lections, bequeathed to Florence in 1743 Vecchio Arno by the Medici family on condition that it never leave the city. The highlight is Gener›#ale Diaz the stash of Renaissance art, including Botticelli’s La nascita di Venere (Birth ViLaudneg' arno TorriPgoiannGtieraazlilee of Venus), Leonardo da Vinci’s Annun- Bardi ciazione (Annunciation) and Michelan- gelo’s Tondo doni (Holy Family). The Walk » Pick up Via Lambertesca, over the way from the gallery entrance, and follow it to Via Por Santa Maria. Go left and it’s a short hop to the river. Ponte Vecchio Florence’s celebrated bridge has twin- kled with the wares of jewellers since the 16th century when Ferdinando I de’ Medici ordered them to replace the the town butchers, who were wont to toss malodorous unwanted leftovers into the river. The bridge as it stands was built in 1345 and was the only one in Florence saved from destruction by the retreating Germans in 1944. The Walk » To get back to the Galleria dell’Accademia, pick up bus C1 from Lungarno Generale Diaz and head up to Piazza San Marco. Giardino di Boboli (GBiaarrddiinnioGBaardrdeinnsi) (Boboli Gardens) 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

116

France ICONIC MONUMENTS, FABULOUS FOOD, WORLD-CLASS WINES – there are so many reasons to plan your very own French voyage. Whether you’re planning on cruising the corniches of the French Riviera, getting lost among the snowcapped mountains or tasting your way around Champagne’s hallowed vineyards, this is a nation that’s made for road trips and full of unforgettable routes that will plunge you straight into France’s heart and soul. There’s a trip for everyone here: family travellers, history buffs, culinary connoisseurs and outdoors adventurers. Buckle up, and bon voyage – you’re in for quite a ride. Champagne region Phare de Verzenay SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY IMAGES ©

: 44: : 4 444 N E TH E R LA N D S Den Haag 4 France 444 4 ^# LONDON #^ E N G LA N D 44#_ Rotterdam #^Antwerp #^ Düsseldorf 44 PAS- #_ BRUSSELS THE CHANNEL BELGIUM (LA MANCHE) DE-CALAIS 44FG GF GFRenSnte#]-MsS#^Cat-#]lh9oLeôFr]#boAF#^oounBrudgêaar]#ètygirndeeLee^#ussse]#]#xCMOaOFHuaeaR]#onilnsNaDnstiEfisreleeephuparC]#^#em#^8hERav\\#rotrrueeuePsnxéSrOo_#OnMInPSMeAEE#]RPrIoS\\#vAiInSsRNeE#]Mi#]mATsr1Ro3NyEesHAULUTEXN-Ea_#MVnM#]OcBOySOSSGEUaEGLaSR#^LrEGEbSRrtCü]#rMIacTskA#^YbeNonYurg GF FG FG 444444:ATONLLCAaaEN:ARnITNMotnIecPtCaehasrrraer^#cSiléslaNgePiiano\\#otntiute1Aaersl0evNldi#\\nJuOCUhinToonV]#\\#uLI8EirmsN]#oVNgeEen1]#sd4\\#ô]#mBI\\#NleCoGCDhi\\#uR#]RsLaéEOEmrBOUeIbRotCSro#\\ulEHEérrTd#\\agEMneRssVonéA#]NztulIeuÈPxldçaaV#]eRuoyrrRcé#\\nMrLsdgENeuOieooarCArInF-tRvhSbuaoaErablan#\\nelaôLtoleyDnynneeoi-aj#\\^#onMy]#nARNGEJeUAnHSRneAAn]#AvUÔe#]a\\#cTNBLyEaEe-kseaGnC]#BeçonCoElemnvhR#_aaaNmr onix Clermont- Parc lGaAT-EgCoRSe\\#au8SnanlroélR:aduéta1Psg-\\#daei1ore#]#_cnQa\\#TNLluAaTsOCetRaurauTCcrrNuA#\\ra-yHaeAs\\#lsFbrlsaPrcRcePiAiudi#\\gdaoèsaaétUerR'enggs-rAcsGLacD-éiesuoRNPVragcoFNEvannaiéoane]#eonaraggltnrncrcd#\\tluiugPuoraeadsrNeNnannrleeudCeaenaalsroLlatlrpduciubRdvriNMsoregéesNasnglîenodmA#]iansoaonteRneuiVntAsaDrsBpaG-MvelFelÈeol]#eidoagClalnuruflneeirHcd]#eGzsodeuEr]#ere]#ncAePi::rlnRVPRlloaeeeéO:rrgsbHIcVcG^#iSlaooNeéEuÈnro#]NasTRtaRletoléoCuE-1gs8dPur]#Ee0iureHqlrAolovuAVAviC#\\egne8eLAUunadPRTicnenEeEenNSS]#sei-csSM#]eIeAO#]T]#sntN#_ArtiAiLeb1CrYe2esO FGGF FGGF 44FGFGGF444GF:BBiasycaoyf Bordeaux ^# RPLaérgacinoNdneaastluddreeesl Cascogne LANDES Biarritz \\# 10 Pau \\# 11 Parc National des Pyrénées : ::: AND:ORRA LA : : : :S P A I N : VELLA :::::: : : :::::: :::::: : MEDITESRERAANEAN : ::: #^ Barcelona ::::: : : VGaollefnocdiae : : : e# 0 200 km : 0 100 miles : ::

PHILIPPE COHAT/GETTY IMAGES © DON'T MISS Longues-sur-Mer See where parts of the famous D-Day film, The Longest Day (1962), 9was filmed on Trip Lac de Gaube One of the Pyrenees’ finest trails leads to the glittering Lac de Gaube. Catch the cable car to bthe trail on Trip The Pyrenees Lac de Gaube Fenocchio 8 Essential France 21 Days Enjoy some original This grand tour visits some of France’s most flavours at this iconic unmissable sights. (p121) ice-cream parlour on 9 D-Day’s Beaches 3 Days Trip c Follow the course of the WWII invasion on Normandy’s beaches. (p133) Château de Chambord a Atlantic to Med 10 Days The ultimate south-of-France trip, linking two The Loire’s star very different seas. (p143) expression of Renaissance b The Pyrenees 7 Days architecture, capped Explore the majestic mountain landscape, easily by its world-famous the equal of the Alps. (p153) double-helix staircase. c Riviera Crossing 4 Days eDiscover it on Trip The best beaches, cities, villages and nature along the Med coast. (p163) d Champage Taster 3 Days Taste your way around the cellars of Champagne on this fizz-fuelled trip. (p175) e Châteaux of the Loire 5 Days France’s greatest châteaux, from medieval towers to royal palaces. (p185) 119

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d 1130 3130 5130 7130 9131 c131

DAVIDEVISON / GETTY IMAGES © 8Essential France City to city, coast to coast, this grand tour visits some of France’s most unmissable sights. There’s some epic driving involved, but this is one trip you won’t forget in a hurry. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 335 km 21 DAYS 3060KM / #4# # Caen Ll Bayeux 1902 MILES Check out the world's GREAT FOR… longest comic strip JGB #_ PARIS # Poitiers 2100 km BEST TIME TO GO Chamonix ##8 Savour sky-high views April to June of Mont Blanc 1445 km I ESSENTIAL Sarlat-la-Canéda #1#0 PHOTO Explore the medieval heart of this gorgeous # Overlooking the Dordogne town Parisian panorama ‚ from the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur. Clermont- Km Ferrand #13# K BEST FOR # Cannes FAMILIES Gorges du Verdon Brave the space-age Experience France's rides and roller-coaster answer to the thrills of Futuroscope. Grand Canyon 3060 km GLoocragteisonduCaVpetridoonndRetaaviilnsetothgroouhgehreHaute-Provence 121

GF #9 Bayeux 4 St-Lô #^ \\#\\##\\ ·/St- A84 Falaise ]# \\#\\# ]# #Br^#ieucSt-MMicohnetl 5 ]#Fougères #^ #\\ \\# Rennes#^ /·A81 8 \\# /·A11 #] Essential France#\\#]\\##\\#\\ Angers This is the big one – an epic trek that travels all the #\\ way from the chilly waters of the English Channel to the gleaming blue Mediterranean. Along the way, : ^# Nantes you’ll stop off at some of France’s most iconic sights: :: the château of Versailles, the abbey of Mont St- /·A83 Michel, the summit of Mont Blanc and the beaches of the French Riviera. Allez-y! Parc Naturel Interrégional du Marais Poitevin \\# ·/A10 La Rochelle ATLANTIC \\# Saintes OCEAN ·/A89 #Bordeaux 7 ·/Parc A62 Naturel Bay of Régional des Biscay Landes de Cascogne athveiltlhargoenygcshoafrmto,u#]drei\\#s#^stpsi.te\\#\\# \\# /·A70 The centre of Mont- 1 Paris #^ /·A65 martre is place du Tertre, For that essentially San \\# Parisian experience, it’s Sebastián hard to beat Montmartre Pau – the neighbourhood of cobbled lanes and cafe- once the village’s main lined squares beloved by square, now packed with writers and painters since buskers and portrai#^t art- the 19th century. This ists. You can get a sense of : was once a notoriously how the area would once ramshackle part of Paris, have looked at the Musée #\\ full of bordellos, brothels, de Montmartre (%01 49 25 dance halls and bars, 89 39; www.museede : as well as the city’s first can-can clubs. Though montmartre.fr; 12 rue Cortot, once occupied by Renoir its hedonistic heyday and Utrillo. has long since passed, 18e; adult/child €9.50/5.50; Montmartre still retains Nearby, Montmartre’s h10am-6pm; mLamarck- finest view unfolds from Caulaincourt), which details the dome of the Basilique the area’s bohemian past. du Sacré-Coeur (%01 53 It’s inside Montmartre’s 41 89 00; www.sacre-coeur- oldest building, a 17th- montmartre.com; place du century manor house Parvis du Sacré-Cœur; dome adult/child €6/4, cash only; h6am-10.30pm, dome 8.30am-8pm May-Sep, to 5pm 122

#] Honfleur /·A16 ·/A1 eForêt # 0 200 km 0 100 miles lL## ·/]# d'Argonne ^# Saarbrücken #] Reims ]# Naturel Metz A4 Parc Verneuil- Régional de sur-Avre Versailles #\\ 2 1 Paris Lorraine ]# Nancy ¸0 #ID939 ^# Strasbourg #^#Alençon 3 p198 Troyes Chartres #] #\\Vittel Forêt d'Orléans A6 Le Mans #] Colmar /·]# ·/ ]# ]# Auxerre Forêt de #\\ Mulhouse \\# Châtillon A28 Orléans Belfort #\\ #_ /·A10 #6 Chambord #\\ Vézelay FRANCE 8 Essential France Parc Naturel Tours ]# ·/A77 ]# Dijon #] Besançon w Régional /·A10 #\\ Bourges du Morvan _# BERN Châteauroux \\# #\\ Chalon-sur-Saône #\\ Poitiers #\\ Tournus 44 Montluçon \\# ]# Geneva ·/A40 4¸0444/· #A89 Parc #\\Limoges ##] 9 D1212 1#]0 Chamonix Naturel Fréjus Régional Lyon Albertville#\\ Périgord- Clermont- #\\ Limousin Chambéry ·/Ferrand A43 /·A89 444/·St-ÉtienneA47 #\\ #\\ Tulle w Tunnel #^Turin ·/ 4#] #\\ Grenoble A75 #]Valence \\#Briançon Brive-la-Gaillarde #\\#8 Sarlat-La- \\# Privas Gap Canéda #\\ Figeac \\# Mende \\# Montélimar \\# \\# #\\ #\\#\\ Digne- 0¸ FGParc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses ]#Orange les-Bains D2205 12 \\# MONTE Avignon]# Gorges du Verdon # /·Km # I#Montpellier #] # /·Nîmes #] 13 N85 #]#_ CARLO ]#Toulouse Aix-en- 12 ]# Nice Provence 11 Cannes p200 /·A9 Golfe de : ^# A8 #\\ French Carcassonne #\\ Beauduc Marseille St- Riviera Ligurian Tropez Sea ]#]#]##]]# #\\ _# LINK YOUR Oct-Apr; mAnvers). On a TRIP clear day, you can see for up to 30km. Then 9 D-Day’s Beaches c Riviera Crossing head to the riverbank for Take a side trip Combine this a stroll through Paris’ from Caen to follow journey with our jaunt history (p198). the course of the WWII down the French Riviera, invasion on Normandy’s which begins in Cannes. 5 4 p130 beaches. The Drive » Drive From the centre of Paris, follow the A13 west from Porte d’Auteuil and take the exit marked ‘Versailles Château’. Versailles is 28km southwest of the city. 123

FRANCE 8 Essential France 2 Versailles Appartements du Roi et join the D906 to Chartres. All de la Reine (State Apart- told, it’s a journey of 76km. Louis XIV transformed ments) and the famous his father’s hunting 3 Chartres lodge into the Château Galerie des Glaces de Versailles (%01 30 83 (Hall of Mirrors), a You’ll know you’re near- 78 00; www.chateauversailles. 75m-long ballroom filled ing Chartres long before fr; place d’Armes; adult/child with chandeliers and you reach it thanks to passport ticket incl estate-wide floor-to-ceiling mirrors. the twin spires of the access €18/free, with musical Outside, the vast park Cathédrale Notre Dame events €25/free, palace €15/ incorporates terraces, (www.cathedrale-chartres. free; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun flower beds, paths and org; place de la Cathédrale; Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Tue-Sun fountains, as well as the h8.30am-7.30pm daily year- Nov-Mar; mRER Versailles- Grand and Petit Canals. round, also to 10pm Tue, Fri & Château–Rive Gauche) in the Sun Jun-Aug), considered mid-17th century, and it Northwest of the main to be one of the most remains France’s most palace is the Domaine important structures in majestic palace. The Christendom. royal court was based de Marie-Antoinette here from 1682 until (Marie Antoinette’s Estate; www. The present cathedral 1789, when revolutionar- chateauversailles.fr; Château was built during the late ies massacred the palace de Versailles; adult/child €10/ 12th century after the guard and dragged free, with passport ticket free; original was destroyed Louis XVI and Marie hnoon-6.30pm Tue-Sun by fire. It’s survived Antoinette back to Paris, Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Tue-Sat wars and revolutions where they were inglori- Nov-Mar), where the royal remarkably intact, and ously guillotined. family would have taken the brilliant-blue stained- refuge from the intrigue glass windows have The architecture is and etiquette of court life. even inspired their own truly eye-popping. High- shade of paint (Chartres lights include the Grands The Drive » The N10 runs blue). The cathedral also houses the Sainte Voile southwest from Versailles (Holy Veil), supposedly through pleasant countryside worn by the Virgin Mary and forest to Rambouillet. You’ll while giving birth to Jesus. VISITING VERSAILLES The best views are Versailles is one of the country’s most popular from the 112m-high destinations, so planning ahead will make your visit Clocher Neuf (New Bell more enjoyable. Avoid the busiest days of Tuesday Tower; Cathédrale Notre and Sunday, and remember that the château is Dame; adult/child €7.50/free; closed on Monday. Save time by pre-purchasing h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm tickets on the château’s website, or arrive early if Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun May-Aug, you’re buying at the door – by noon queues spiral 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon- out of control. Sat, 2-5pm Sun Sep-Apr). You can also access off-limits areas (such as 5 4 p130 the Private Apartments of Louis XV and Louis XVI, the Opera House and the Royal Chapel) by taking The Drive » Follow the D939 a 90-minute guided tour (%01 30 83 77 88; www. chateauversailles.fr; tours €7, plus palace entry; hEnglish- northwest for 58km to Verneuil- language tours 9.30pm Tue-Sun). sur-Avre, then take the D926 west for 78km to Argentan – 124

both great roads through typical 5 Mont St-Michel based in Genêts. Don’t be FRANCE 8 Essential France Norman countryside. Just west tempted to do it on your of Argentan, the D158/N158 You’ve already seen it on own – the bay’s tides are heads north to Caen, then turns a million postcards, but notoriously treacherous. northwest on the N13 to Bayeux, nothing prepares you for 94km further. the real Mont St-Michel 4 p130 (%02 33 89 80 00; www. The Drive » Take the A84, N12 TRIP HIGHLIGHT monuments-nationaux.fr; adult/child incl guided tour €9/ and A81 for 190km to Le Mans 4 Bayeux free; h9am-7pm, last entry and the A28 for 102km to Tours, 1hr before closing). It’s one where you can follow a tour The Tapisserie de Bayeux of France’s architectural through the Loire Valley if you (%02 31 51 25 50; www.bayeux marvels, an 11th-century wish. Chambord is about 75km museum.com; rue de Nesmond; island abbey marooned from Tours via the D952. adult/child incl audio­guide in the middle of a vast €9/4; h9am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, golden bay. 6 Chambord to 7pm May-Aug, 9.30am- 12.30pm & 2-6pm Nov–Feb) When you arrive, you’ll If you only have time to is without doubt the be steered into one of the visit one château in the world’s most celebrated Mont’s huge car parks. Loire, you might as well (and ambitious) piece of You then walk along make it the grandest – embroidery. Over 58 pan- the causeway (or catch and Chambord (%info 02 els, the tapestry recounts a free shuttle bus) to 54 50 40 00, tour & show reser- the invasion of England the island itself. Guided vations 02 54 50 50 40; www. in 1066 by William I, or tours are included, or you chambord.org; adult/child William the Conqueror, can explore solo with an €11/9, parking near/distant as he’s now known. audioguide. €6/4; h9am-5pm or 6pm; c) is the most lavish of Commissioned in 1077 The Église Abba- them all. It’s a showpiece by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, tiale (Abbey Church) of Renaissance architec- William’s half-brother, the is reached via a steep ture, from the double- tapestry retells the battle climb along the Grande helix staircase up to the in fascinating detail: look Rue. Around the church, turret-covered rooftop. for Norman horses getting the cluster of buildings With over 440 rooms, the stuck in the quicksands known as La Merveille sheer scale of the place around Mont St-Michel, (The Marvel) includes the is mindboggling – and and the famous appear- cloister, refectory, guest in the Loire, that’s really ance of Halley’s Comet hall, ambulatory and saying something. in scene 32. The final various chapels. showdown at the Battle of The Drive » It’s 425km to Hastings is particularly For a different perspec- graphic, complete with tive, take a guided walk Bordeaux via Blois and the A10 severed limbs, decapitated across the sands with motorway. You could consider heads, and the English breaking the journey with stop- King Harold getting an Découverte de la Baie du offs at Futuroscope and Poitiers, arrow in the eye. Mont-Saint-Michel (%02 roughly halfway between the two. 33 70 83 49; www.decou The Drive » Mont St-Michel is vertebaie.com; 1 rue Montoise, 7 Bordeaux Genêts; adult/child from €8/5) 125km southwest of Bayeux; the and Chemins de la Baie When Unesco decided fastest route is along the D6 and (%02 33 89 80 88; www. to protect Bordeaux’s then the A84 motorway. cheminsdelabaie.com; 34 rue medieval architecture in de l’Ortillon, Genêts; adult/ 2007, it simply listed half child from €7.30/5), both the city in one fell swoop. 125

PETER RICHARDSON / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES © DOUG PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP OLIVER BERRY, WRITER It’s an epic in every sense: in scale, views, time and geography. This once-in-a-lifetime journey covers France from every possible angle: top to bottom, east to west, city and village, old-fashioned and modern, coast and countryside. It links together many of the country’s truly unmissable highlights, and by the end you’ll genuinely be able to say you’ve seen the heart and soul of France. Top: Produce market, Aix-en-Provence Left: Sausages for sale, Sarlat-la-Canéda Right: Cathédrale St-André, Bordeaux

FRANCE 8 Essential FranceCovering 18 sq km, this is the world’s largest urban MARCOCIANNAREL / SHUTTERSTOCK © World Heritage Site, with grand buildings and architectural treasures galore. Top of the heap is the Cathédrale St-André, known for its stone carvings and generously gargoyled belfry, the Tour Pey-Berland (place Jean Moulin; adult/child €5.50/ free; h10am-1.15pm & 2-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Oct-May). But the whole old city rewards wandering, especially around the Jardin Public (cours de Verdun), the pretty squares of esplanade des Quinconces and place Gambetta, and the city’s 4km-long river- front esplanade, with its playgrounds, paths and paddling pools. 5 4 p130 The Drive » Sarlat-la-Canéda is a drive of 194km via the A89 motorway, or you can take a longer but more enjoyable route via the D936. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 8 Sarlat-la-Canéda If you’re looking for France’s heart and soul, you’ll find it among the forests and fields of the Dordogne. It’s the stuff of French fantasies: river- bank châteaux, medieval villages, wooden-hulled gabarres (flat-bottomed barges) and market stalls groaning with foie gras, truffles, walnuts and 127

FRANCE 8 Essential France wines. The medieval town then turn off onto the N89/D89 Usines Lumières, on 19 of Sarlat-la-Canéda makes to Lyon. This route should cover March 1895. the perfect base, with a between 420km and 430km. beautiful medieval centre 5 4 p131 and lots of lively markets. 9 Lyon The Drive » Take the A42 It’s also ideally placed Fired up by French food? for exploring the Vézère Then you’ll love Lyon, towards Lake Geneva, then the Valley, about 20km to with its bouchons (small A40 towards St-Gervais-les- the northwest, home bistros), bustling markets Bains. The motorway becomes to France’s finest cave and fascinating food the N205 as it nears Chamonix. paintings. Most famous culture. Start in Vieux It’s a drive of at least 225km. of all are the ones at the Lyon and the picturesque Grotte de Lascaux (%05 quarter of Presqu’île, TRIP HIGHLIGHT 53 51 95 03; www.semitour. then catch the funicular com; Montignac; adult/child to the top of Fourvière to a Chamonix €9.90/6.40, combined ticket explore the city’s Roman with Le Thot €13.50/9.40; ruins and enjoy cross- Snuggling among snow- hguided tours 9am-7pm Jul town views. clad mountains – includ- & Aug, 9.30am-6pm Apr-Jun, ing Europe’s highest Sep & Oct, 10am-12.30pm & Film buffs will also summit, Mont Blanc – 2-5pm Nov-Mar, closed Jan), want to make time for the adrenaline-fuelled although to prevent dam- Musée Lumière (%04 78 Chamonix is an ideal age to the paintings, you 78 18 95; www.institut-lumiere. springboard for the now visit a replica of the org; 25 rue du Premier Film, French Alps. In winter, cave’s main sections in a 8e; adult/child €6.50/5.50; it’s a mecca for skiers nearby grotto. h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; and snowboarders, and mMonplaisir-Lumière), where in summer, once the The Drive » The drive east the Lumière Brothers snows thaw, the high-level (Auguste and Louis) trails become a trekkers’ to Lyon is a long one, covering shot the first reels of paradise. well over 400km and travelling the world’s first motion across the spine of the Massif picture, La Sortie des There are two really Central. A good route is to follow essential Chamonix expe- the A89 all the way to exit 6, riences. First, catch the dizzying cable car to the FUTUROSCOPE top of the Aiguille du Midi to snap a shot of Mont Halfway between Chambord and Bordeaux on the Blanc. A10, 10km north of Poitiers, Futuroscope (%05 49 49 11 12; www.futuroscope.com; av René Monory, Chasseneuil-du- Then take the combi- Poitou; adult/child €43/35; h10am-11.15pm Jul, 9am-11.15pm nation mountain train Aug, shorter hours rest of year, closed Jan–mid-Feb) is one of and cable car from the France’s top theme parks. It’s a futuristic experience Gare du Montenvers that takes you whizzing through space, diving into (%04 50 53 22 75; www. the ocean depths, racing around city streets and on compagniedumontblanc.fr; a close encounter with creatures of the future. Note 35 place de la Mer de Glace; that many rides have a minimum height of 120cm. adult/child return €31/26.40; h10am-4.30pm) to the You’ll need at least five hours to check out the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), major attractions, or two days to see everything. The France’s largest glacier. park is in the suburb of Jaunay-Clan; take exit 28 off Wrap up warmly if you the A10. want to visit the glacier’s sculptures and ice caves. The Drive » The drive to the Riviera is full of scenic thrills. 128

An attractive route is via the PETER BURNETT / GETTY IMAGES © D1212 to Albertville, and then via the A43, which travels over the Italian border and through the Tunnel de Fréjus. From here, the N94 runs through Briançon, and a combination of the A51, N85 and D6085 carries you south to Nice. You’ll cover at least 430km. b French Riviera c Aix-en-Provence French Riviera The winding coastline If there’s one coast road Sleepy Provence sums TRIP HIGHLIGHT in France you simply up the essence of la have to drive, it’s the douce vie (the gentle d Gorges du Verdon French Riviera, with life). Cloaked in lavender its rocky cliffs, maquis- and spotted with hilltop Complete your cross- scented air and dazzling villages, it’s a region France adventure with Med views. Sun-seekers that sums up everything an unforgettable expedi- have been flocking here that’s good about France. tion to the Gorges du since the 19th century, Verdon – sometimes and its scenery still never Cruising the back known as the Grand fails to seduce. roads and browsing the Canyon of Europe. This markets are the best deep ravine slashes 25km Lively Nice and ways to get acquainted. through the plateaus cinematic Cannes make Carpentras and Vaison- of Haute-Provence; in natural starts, but for the la-Romaine are particu- places, its walls rise to a Riviera’s loveliest scenery, larly detour-worthy, while dizzying 700m, twice the you’ll want to drive down artistic Aix-en-Provence height of the Eiffel Tower the gorgeous Corniche encapsulates the classic (321m). de l’Estérel to St-Tropez, Provençal vibe, with still a watchword for its pastel buildings and The two main seaside glamour. Summer Cézanne connections. jumping-off points are can be hellish, but come the villages of Moustiers in spring or autumn and 5 4 p131 Ste-Marie, in the west, you’ll have its winding and Castellane, in the lanes and fragrant hills The Drive » The gorges are east. Drivers and bikers practically to yourself. can take in the canyon For maximum views, 230km northeast of Aix-en- panorama from two stick to the coast roads: Provence, via the A51 and D952. vertigo-inducing cliffside the D6098 to Antibes and roads, but the base of the Cannes, the D559 around gorge is only accessible the Corniche de l’Estérel, on foot or by raft. and the D98A to St- Tropez. It’s about 120km via this route. The Drive » From St-Tropez, take the fast A8 for about 230km west to Aix-en-Provence. 129

/ GETTY IMAGES © FRANCE 8 Essential France Eating & Sleeping Paris 1 4 Le Grand Monarque Hotel €€€ (%02 37 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque. 5 Holybelly International € com; 22 place des Épars; d €145-215, f €275; (www.holybel.ly; 19 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e; a iW) With its teal-blue shutters gracing breakfast €5-11.50, lunch mains €13.50-16.50; its 1779 façade, lovely stained-glass ceiling, h9am-6pm Thu, Fri, Mon, from 10am Sat & and treasure trove of period furnishings, old Sun; mJacques Bonsergent) This outstanding B&W photos and knick-knacks, the refurbished barista-run coffee shop and kitchen is always Grand Monarque (with air-con in some rooms) rammed with a buoyant crowd, who never tire of is a historical gem and very central. A host of Holybelly’s exceptional service, Belleville-roasted hydrotherapy treatments are available at its coffee and cuisine. Sarah’s breakfast pancakes spa. Its elegant restaurant, Georges (%02 37 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.com; 22 place served with egg, bacon, homemade bourbon des Épars; 4-course menu from €75, 8-course butter and maple syrup are legendary, while her tasting menu €95, mains €38-41; hnoon-2pm lunch menu features everything from traditional & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat), has a Michelin star. Staff braised veal shank to squid à la plancha. are charming. 4 Hôtel Amour Boutique Hotel €€ Mont St-Michel 5 (%01 48 78 31 80; www.hotelamourparis.fr; 8 4 Vent des Grèves B&B € rue Navarin, 9e; d €170-230; W; mSt-Georges, Pigalle) Craving romance in Paris? The inimitable (%Estelle 02 33 48 28 89; www.ventdesgreves. black-clad Amour (‘Love’) features original design and nude artwork in each of the rooms, com; 7-9 chemin des Dits, Ardevon; s/d/tr/q incl some more explicit than others. The icing on the cake is the hip ground-floor bistro with summer breakfast €42/52/62/72) This friendly, family- patio garden, a tasty spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner and everything in between. Rooms don’t run B&B has five modern rooms, furnished have a TV, but who cares when you’re in love? simply, with magical views of the Mont. Outstanding value. Situated an easily walkable 1km east of the shuttle stop in La Caserne. Chartres 3 Bordeaux 7 5 Le Tripot Bistro €€ 5 Le Petit Commerce Seafood €€ (%02 37 36 60 11; www.letripot.wixsite.com/ (05 56 79 76 58; 22 rue Parlement St-Pierre; chartres; 11 place Jean Moulin; 2-/3-course 2-course lunch menu €14, mains €15-25; lunch menus €15/18, 3-course dinner menus hnoon-midnight) This iconic bistro, with dining €29.50-45, mains €13.50-22; hnoon-1.45pm rooms both sides of a narrow pedestrian street & 7.30-9.15pm Tue & Thu-Sat, noon-1.45pm Sun) and former Michelin-starred chef Stéphane Tucked off the tourist trail and easy to miss, even Carrade in the kitchen, is the star turn of the if you do chance down its narrow street, this trendy St-Pierre quarter. It’s best known for atmospheric space with low beamed ceilings is its excellent seafood menu that embraces a treat for authentic and adventurous French everything from Arcachon sole and oysters to fare like saddle of rabbit stuffed with snails, eels, lobsters and chipirons (baby squid) fresh and grilled turbot in truffled hollandaise sauce. from St-Jean de Luz. Locals are onto it, so booking ahead is advised. 130

4 Mama Shelter Design Hotel €€ 17th-century houses wrapped around a traboule (secret passage) with preserved features such (%05 57 30 45 45; www.mamashelter.com/ as Italianate loggias make this an exquisite place to stay. Individually decorated rooms woo en/bordeaux; 19 rue Poquelin Molière; d/tr with designer bathroom fittings and bountiful antiques, while decadent facilities include a spa, from €79/129) With personalised iMacs, video a Michelin-starred restaurant (menus €95 to €115), a swish cafe and a cross-vaulted bar. booths and free movies in every room, Mama Shelter leads the way in cutting-edge sleep. Crisp white rooms come in small, medium or large, with family-friendly XL doubles touting a sofa bed. The ground-floor restaurant (mains €13 to €29) sports the same signature rubber Aix-en-Provence c rings strung above the bar as other Philippe FRANCE 8 Essential France Starck–designed hotels, and weekends usher 5 Le Petit Verdot French €€ concerts, gigs and other cultural happenings (%04 42 27 30 12; www.lepetitverdot.fr; 7 rue onto the small stage. d’Entrecasteaux; mains €19-25; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Great Provençal food and great Lyon 9 Provençal wines – really, what more do you want from a meal in this part of France? It’s all about 5 Le Poêlon d’Or Bouchon €€ hearty, honest dining here, with table tops made (%04 78 37 65 60; www.lepoelondor-restaurant. out of old wine crates, and a lively chef-patron fr; 29 rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 2e; lunch who runs the place with huge enthusiasm. menus €17-20, menus €27-32; hnoon-2pm & Expect slow-braised meats, seasonal veg, sinful 7.30-10pm Mon-Fri; mAmpère-Victor Hugo) This desserts and some super wines to go with. upmarket bouchon, around the corner from the 4 Villa Gallici Historic Hotel €€€ Musée des Tissus, is well known among local (%04 42 23 29 23; www.villagallici.com; 18 av de foodies who recommend its superb andouillette la Violette; r from €350; p aWs) Baroque (chitterlings) and pike dumplings. Save room for and beautiful, this fabulous villa was built as the delicious chocolate mousse or the vanilla a private residence in the 18th century, and crème brûlée. Yummy. Well worth the detour. it still feels marvellously opulent. Rooms are 4 Cour des Loges Hotel €€€ more like museum pieces, stuffed with gilded (%04 72 77 44 44; www.courdesloges.com; 2-8 mirrors, toile-de-jouy wallpaper and filigreed rue du Bœuf, 5e; d €200-350, ste €250-600; furniture. There’s a lovely lavender-filled garden a iWs; mVieux Lyon) Four 14th- to for breakfast, plus a super pool for lazy evening swims. It even has its own wine cellar. CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption 131

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1141 6141

BERTL123 / SHUTTERSTOCK © # 9D-Day’s Beaches Explore the events of D-Day, when Allied troops stormed ashore to liberate Europe from Nazi occupation. From war museums to landing beaches, it’s a fascinating and sobering experience. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 88 km 3 DAYS Omaha Beach 142KM / 88 MILES Pay your respects at GREAT FOR… the American Cemetery & Memorial B mKUtah BEST TIME TO GO Beach April to July, to avoid # summer-holiday Carentan # #7# traffic around the ##8 beaches. Sully # # I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Isigny- sur-Mer Standing next to the German guns at Ll##1 Longues-sur-Mer. Pointe du Hoc Caen K BEST FOR Wander amongst shell Visit an award-winning HISTORY craters that haven't multimedia D-Day changed since D-Day museum The Caen Mémorial 98 km 0 km provides you with a comprehensive D-Day OLomcahtiaonNoCramptainodnydAemtaeilrsictoangoCehmereetery & Memorial overview. 133

9 D-Day’s Beaches The beaches and bluffs are quiet today, but on 6 June 1944 the Normandy shoreline witnessed the arrival of the largest armada the world has ever seen. This patch of the French coast will forever be synonymous with D-Day (known to the French as Jour-J), and the coastline is strewn with memorials, museums and cemeteries – reminders that though victory was won on the Longest Day, it came at a t#\\errible price. #\\ #\\ Valognes En(LglaisMh aCnhcahnen) el #\\ Montebourg ·/D14 /·N13 # Km\\# St-Sauveur- \\# Ste-Mère- Utah Beach Pointe Vierville- le-Vicomte Église \\#9 du Hoc sur-Mer Grandcamp- ¸0 ¸0 # 0¸D900 Maisy \\# D913 Baie 8 D514 des Veys #\\ Omaha Port-en- Bessin- St-Laurent- \\# Beach ·/ #\\# #\\7 #\\ Huppain Parc Naturel Douve Isigny- \\# sur-Mer Russy \\# #\\ Régional des sur-Mer #\\ N13 La Haye- Marais du Cotentin La Cambe \\# du-Puits et du Bessin Le Grand #\\ Hameau Maisons#\\ Carentan MANCHE Sully#\\ BASSE- ]# H# NORMANDIE Le Moray- Littry \\# Lessay p140 \\# Periers \\# Le Hommet- Forêt de d'Arthenay Cerisy #\\ ¸0·/D2 D971 0¸D900 \\# Balleroy St-Lô 0¸D572 #^ \\# Caumont- l'Éventé 0¸D999 Vire \\# Coutances \\#

TRIP HIGHLIGHT in a purpose-­designed Normandy. A second sec- FRANCE 9 D-Day’s Beaches building covering 14,000 tion focuses on the Cold 1 Caen sq metres, the memo- War. There’s also the rial offers an immersive well-preserved original Situated 3km northwest experience, using sound, bunker used by German of Caen, the award- lighting, film, animation command in 1944. winning Mémorial – Un and audio testimony to evoke the grim reali- On your way around, Musée pour la Paix ties of war, the trials of look out for an original (Memorial – A Museum for occupation and the joy of Typhoon fighter plane Peace; %02 31 06 06 44; www. liberation. and a full-size Sherman memorial-caen.fr; esplanade tank. Général Eisenhower; adult/child The visit begins with €20/17; h9am-7pm daily early a whistle-stop overview 5 4 p141 Feb-early Nov, 9.30am-6.30pm of Europe’s descent into The Drive » From the Tue-Sun early Nov-e­ arly Feb, total war, tracing events closed 3 weeks in Jan) is a from the end of WWI museum, head northeast brilliant place to begin through to the rise of along Esplanade Brillaud de with some background fascism in Europe, the Laujardière, and follow signs on the historic events German occupation of to Ouistreham. You’ll join the of D-Day, and the wider France and the Battle of E46 ring road; follow it to exit context of WWII. Housed 3a (Porte d’Angleterre), and merge onto the D515 and D84 to Ouistreham. Park on the seafront on bd Aristide Briand. In all it’s a trip of 18km. e# 0 20 km 2 Ouistreham 0 10 miles On D-Day, the sandy sea- Baie de front around Ouistreham la Seine was code named Sword Beach and was the focus Longues- Juno & Gold LINK sur-Mer YOUR 0¸ #Beaches Courseulles- TRIP # ##\\5 \\#4 D514 3 sur-Mer 8 Essential France Arromanches #\\ Join this grand tour at #\\ Crepon the island abbey of Mont St- #\\ Douvres Rade de Mic#\\hel, about 140km from Caen the Normandy coastline via ·/ \\# the A84 motorway. ##]6 Bayeux \\# Beny- sur-Mer D79 d Champagne Taster For a change in focus #Ouistreham ]#2 head east, about four hours from Caen, to the cellars of GF8 Ll ¸0D514 Épernay for a fizz-fuelled #^#1 tour. ·/D6 /·N13 \\# Ranville Caen 135 #\\ Fortenay- /·A13 le-Pesnel ·/A84 CALVADOS Orne 0¸N158 #\\ Villers- Bocage \\# Amayé- sur-Ome

FRANCE 9 D-Day’s Beaches of attack for the British following signs for ‘Overlord – King George VI on 16 3rd Infantry Division. L’Assaut’ onto the D514 towards June. A Cross of Lorraine Courseulles-sur-Mer, 18km west. marks the historic spot. There are precious few Drive through town onto rue de reminders of the battle Ver, and follow signs to ‘Centre The area’s only Cana- today, but on D-Day the Juno Beach’. dian museum, the Juno scene was very different: Beach Centre (%02 31 most of the surrounding 3 Juno & Gold 37 32 17; www.junobeach. buildings had been level­ Beaches org; voie des Français Libres, led by artillery fire, and Courseulles-sur-Mer; adult/ German bunkers and On D-Day, Courseulles- child €7/5.50, incl guided artillery positions were sur-Mer was known as tour of Juno Beach €11/9; strung out along the Juno Beach, and was h9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, seafront. Sword Beach stormed mainly by Cana- 10am-5pm Oct-Mar, closed Jan) was the site of some of dian troops. It was here has exhibits on Canada’s the most famous images that the exiled French role in the war effort and of D-Day – including the General Charles de the landings, and offers infamous ones of British Gaulle came ashore after guided tours of Juno troops landing with the landings – the first Beach (€5.50) from April bicycles, and bagpiper ‘official’ French soldier to October. Bill Millin piping troops to set foot in mainland ashore while under Europe since 1940. He A short way west is heavy fire. was followed by Winston Gold Beach, attacked by Churchill on 12 June and the British 50th Infantry The Drive » Follow the on D-Day. seafront west onto rue de Lion, The Drive » Drive west D-DAY IN FIGURES along the D514 for 14km to Arromanches. You’ll pass a Code named ‘Operation Overlord’, the D-Day landings carpark and viewpoint marked were the largest military operation in history. On with a statue of the Virgin Mary, the morning of 6 June 1944, swarms of landing which overlooks Port Winston craft – part of an armada of more than 6000 ships and Gold Beach. Follow the road and 13,000 aeroplanes – hit the northern Normandy into town and signs to Musée du beaches, and tens of thousands of soldiers from the Débarquement. USA, the UK, Canada and elsewhere began pouring onto French soil. The initial landing force involved 4 Arromanches some 45,000 troops; 15 more divisions were to follow once successful beachheads had been established. This seaside town was the site of one of the The majority of the 135,000 Allied troops stormed great logistical achieve- ashore along 80km of beaches north of Bayeux that ments of D-Day. In order were codenamed (from west to east) Utah, Omaha, to unload the vast quan- Gold, Juno and Sword. The landings were followed tities of cargo needed by the 76-day Battle of Normandy, during which the by the invasion forces Allies suffered 210,000 casualties, including 37,000 without capturing one troops killed. German casualties are believed to have of the heavily defended been around 200,000; another 200,000 German Channel ports, the Allies soldiers were taken prisoner. About 14,000 French set up prefabricated civilians also died. marinas off two landing beaches, code named For more background and statistics, see www. Mulberry Harbour. These normandiememoire.com and www.6juin1944.com. consisted of 146 massive cement caissons towed 136

over from England and D-DAY DRIVING ROUTES FRANCE 9 D-Day’s Beaches sunk to form a semi- circular breakwater in There are several signposted driving routes around which floating bridge the main battle sites – look for signs for ‘D-Day-Le spans were moored. In Choc’ in the American sectors and ‘Overlord – the three months after L’Assaut’ in the British and Canadian sectors. A free D-Day, the Mulberries booklet called The D-Day Landings and the Battle of facilitated the unloading Normandy, available from tourist offices, has details of a mind-boggling 2.5 on the eight main routes. million men, four million tonnes of equipment and Maps of the D-Day beaches are available at tabacs 500,000 vehicles. (tobacconists), newsagents and bookshops in Bayeux and elsewhere. At low tide, the stan- chions of one of these east) and Omaha Beach soldiers whose remains artificial quays, Port (to the west). were never found. The Winston (named after Latin inscription reads: Winston Churchill), can Parts of the classic ‘We, whom William once still be seen on the sands D-Day film, The Longest conquered, have now at Arromanches. Day (1962), were filmed set free the conqueror’s here. native land’. Beside the beach, the Musée du Débarquement The Drive » Backtrack to the Nearby, the Musée (Landing Museum; %02 31 22 34 31; www.musee-arroman crossroads and head straight Mémorial de la Bataille ches.fr; place du 6 Juin; adult/ over onto the D104, signed to de Normandie (Battle of child €7.90/5.80; h9am- Vaux-sur-Aure/Bayeux for 8km. Normandy Memorial Museum; 12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Sep, When you reach town, turn right %02 31 51 46 90; www.bayeux 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Oct- onto the D613, and follow signs museum.com; bd Fabien Ware; Mar, closed Jan) explains the to the ‘Musée de la Bataille de adult/child €7/4; h9.30am- logistics and importance Normandie’. 6.30pm May-Sep, 10am- of Port Winston. 12.30pm & 2-6pm Oct-Apr, 6 Bayeux closed Jan-mid-Feb) explores The Drive » Continue west the battle through photos, Though best known for personal accounts, diora- along the D514 for 6km to the its medieval tapestry, mas and film. village of Longues-sur-Mer. You’ll Bayeux has another claim see the sign for the Batterie de to fame: it was the first 5 4 p141 Longues on your right. town to be liberated after D-Day (on the morning of The Drive » After 5 Longues-sur-Mer 7 June 1944). overnighting in Bayeux, head At Longues-sur-Mer It’s also home to the northwest of town on the you can get a glimpse of largest of Normandy’s 18 D6 towards Port-en-Bessin- the awesome firepower Commonwealth military Huppain. You’ll reach a Super-U available to the German cemeteries – the Bayeux supermarket after about 10km. defenders in the shape War Cemetery, situated Go round the roundabout and of two 150mm artillery on bd Fabien Ware. It turn onto the D514 for another guns, still housed in their contains 4848 graves of 8km. You’ll see signs to the concrete casements. On soldiers from the UK and ‘Cimetière Americain’ near the D-Day they were capable 10 other countries – in- hamlet of Le Bray. Omaha Beach of hitting targets more cluding Germany. Across is another 4km further on, near than 20km away – includ- the road is a memorial Vierville-sur-Mer. ing Gold Beach (to the for 1807 Commonwealth 137

PAUL THOMPSON / GETTY IMAGES © MOIRENC CAMILLE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP OLIVER BERRY, WRITER You’ll have heard the D-Day story many times before, but there’s nothing quite like standing on the beaches where this epic struggle played out. D-Day marked the turning point of WWII and heralded the end for Nazism in Europe. Paying your respects to the soldiers who laid down their lives in the name of freedom is an experience that will stay with you forever. Top: Arromanches and Gold Beach Left & Right: Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial

FRANCE 9 D-Day’s Beaches TRIP HIGHLIGHT GUILLAUME LOUYOT / GETTY IMAGES © 7 Omaha Beach If anywhere symbolises the courage and sacrifice of D-Day, it’s Omaha – still known as ‘Bloody Omaha’ to US veterans. It was here, on the 7km stretch of coastline be- tween Vierville-sur-Mer, St-Laurent-sur-Mer and Colleville-sur-Mer, that the most brutal fighting on D-Day took place. US troops had to fight their way across the beach towards the heavily defended cliffs, exposed to underwater obstacles, hidden minefields and withering crossfire. The toll was heavy: of the 2500 casualties at Omaha on D-Day, more than 1000 were killed, most within the first hour of the landings. High on the bluffs above Omaha, the Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial (%02 31 51 62 00; www.abmc. gov; Colleville-sur-Mer; h9am- 6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–mid-Apr) provides a sobering reminder of the human cost of the battle. Featured in the opening scenes of Saving Private Ryan, this is the largest American cemetery in Europe, containing the graves of 9387 American soldiers, and a memorial to 1557 comrades ‘known only unto God’. Start off in the very thoughtfully designed visitor centre, which 139

FRANCE 9 D-Day’s Beaches has moving portrayals DETOUR: of some of the soldiers COUTANCES buried here. Afterwards, take in the expanse of Start: 9 Utah Beach white marble crosses and Stars of David that The lovely old Norman town of Coutances makes stretch off in seemingly a good detour when travelling between the D-Day endless rows, surrounded beaches and Mont St-Michel. At the town’s heart by an immaculately is its Gothic Cathédrale de Coutances (http:// tended expanse of lawn. cathedralecoutances.free.fr; parvis Notre-Dame; h8.30am- noon & 2-5.30pm). Interior highlights include several The Drive » From the Vierville- 13th-century windows, a 14th-century fresco of St Michael skewering the dragon, and an organ and high sur-Mer seafront, follow the rural altar from the mid-1700s. You can climb the lantern D514 through quiet countryside tower on a tour (adult/child €7/4). towards Grandcamp-Maisy. After about 10km you’ll see signs to Coutances is about 50km south of Utah Beach by ‘Pointe du Hoc’. the most direct route. TRIP HIGHLIGHT h9am-6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, lightly defended, and by to 5pm rest of year), which midday the landing force 8 Pointe du Hoc France turned over to the had linked with para- US government in 1979, troopers from the 101st West of Omaha, this looks much as it did on Airborne. By nightfall, craggy promontory D-Day, complete with some 20,000 men and was the site of D-Day’s shell craters and crum- 1700 vehicles had arrived most audacious military bling gun emplacements. on French soil, and the exploit. At 7.10am, 225 US road to European libera- Army Rangers command- The Drive » Stay on the D514 tion had begun. ed by Lt Col James Earl Rudder scaled the sheer to Grandcamp-Maisy, then Today the Utah Beach 30m cliffs, where the continue south onto the D13 dual site is marked by military Germans had stationed a carriageway. Keep going till you memorials and the battery of artillery guns reach the turn-off for the D913, trained onto the beaches signed to St-Marie-du-Mont/ Musée du Débarquement of Utah and Omaha. Un- Utah Beach. It’s a 44km drive. (Utah Beach Landing Museum; fortunately, the guns had %02 33 71 53 35; www.utah- already been moved in- 9 Utah Beach beach.com; Ste-Marie du Mont; land, and Rudder and his adult/child €8/4; h9.30am- men spent the next two The D-Day tour ends at 7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm days repelling counter­ St-Marie-du-Mont, also Oct-May, closed Jan) inside attacks. By the time they known as Utah Beach, the former German com- were finally relieved on which was assaulted by mand post. 8 June, 81 of the rangers soldiers of the US 4th and had been killed and 58 8th Infantry Divisions. more had been wounded. The beach was relatively Today the site (%02 31 51 90 70; www.abmc.gov; 140

Eating & Sleeping Caen 1 presented dishes. Choose from the day’s specials listed on a chalkboard menu, which 5 À Contre Modern French €€ might include hits like brandade de morue (baked codfish pie). It’s a local favourite, so call Sens ahead. (%02 31 97 44 48; www.acontresenscaen.fr; 8 rue 5 Au Ptit Croisiers; mains €30-35, menus €25-54; hnoon- Bistrot Modern French €€ FRANCE 9 D-Day’s Beaches 1.15pm Wed-Sat & 7.30-9.15pm Tue-Sat) A Contre (%02 31 92 30 08; 31 rue Larcher; lunch menu Sens’s stylish interior and serene atmosphere €17-20, dinner menu €27-33, mains €16-19; belie the hotbed of seething creativity happening hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat) Near the in the kitchen. Under the helm of chef Anthony cathedral, this friendly, welcoming eatery whips Caillot, meals are thoughtfully crafted and up creative, beautifully prepared dishes that superbly presented. Recent selections included highlight the Norman bounty without a lick of pollack cooked in seawater with risotto of pretension. Recent hits include chestnut soup, oysters, cabbage and coconut, and a juicy thick- duck breast and bulgur with seasonal fruits cut pork chop with carmelised onions. and roasted pineapple, and black cod with 5 Café Mancel Norman €€ spinach and spicy guacamole. Reservations are (%02 31 86 63 64; www.cafemancel.com; essential. Château de Caen; menus €18-36; hnoon-10pm 4 Les Logis Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) In the same building as du Rempart B&B € the Musée des Beaux-Arts, stylish Café Mancel (%02 31 92 50 40; www.lecornu.fr; 4 rue serves up delicious, traditional French cuisine – Bourbesneur; d €60-105, tr €110-130; W) The everything from pan-fried Norman-style three rooms of this delightful maison de famille beefsteak to hearty Caen-style tripes. Has a ooze old-fashioned cosiness. Our favourite, lovely sun terrace, which also makes a fine spot the Bajocasse, has parquet flooring, a canopy for a drink outside of busy meal times. bed and Toile de Jouy wallpaper. The shop 4 Hôtel des Quatrans Hotel €€ downstairs is the perfect place to stock up on (%02 31 86 25 57; www.hotel-des-quatrans.com; top-quality, homemade cider and calvados 17 rue Gémare; d from €100; W) This typically (apple brandy). Two-night minimum stay. modern hotel has 47 comfy, unfussy rooms 4 Villa Lara Boutique Hotel €€€ in white and chocolate. Promotional deals are (%02 31 92 00 55; www.hotel-villalara.com; 6 often available online. place de Québec; d €190-360, ste €390-520; p aW) Newly constructed in the past Bayeux 6 decade, this 28-room hotel, Bayeux’s most luxurious, sports minimalist colour schemes, 5 Alchimie Modern French €€ top-quality fabrics and decor that juxtaposes (lunch menu €12) On a street lined with 18th- and 21st-century tastes. Amenities restaurants, Alchimie has a simple but elegant include a bar and a gym. Most rooms have design that takes nothing from the beautifully cathedral views. 141

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a 1151 2 5151 7151 a151

VALERY ROKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK / GETTY IMAGES © 10Atlantic to Med Salty Atlantic ports, pristine mountain vistas, the heady bouquet of fine wine, reminders of Rome and Hollywood glam: this classic sea-to-sea trip takes you through the best of southern France. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 0 km 175 km 10 DAYS La Rochelle St-Émilion 1498KM / Made for waterfront Wine tasting and 931 MILES mooching, lunching and shopping for some sunset drinks of the world's GREAT FOR… finest drops Ll##1 HB ##2 St-Émilion mK BEST TIME TO GO Nice Montpellier # Spring or autumn, for warm weather sans # # #8# the crowds. Bayonne #6 # I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Narbonne Pose like a film star on the steps of Cannes’s Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. Carcassonne Marseille K BEST FOR Walk the ramparts of Visit MuCEM, icon of FAMILIES France's most modern Marseille, with magnificent fortress city stunning views to boot La Rochelle, with 863 km 1158 km its child-friendly attractions and boats. LoacRaotciohnelCleapSteioanfadrientgaiclsentotrgeobhueilrtefrom limestone 143

10 Atlantic to Med In May the film starlets of the world pour into Cannes to celebrate a year of movie-making. Let them have their moment of glam – by the time you’ve finished scaling Pyrenean highs, chewing Basque tapas, acting like a medieval knight in a turreted castle and riding to the moon in a spaceship, you too will have the makings of a prize-winning film. \\# Parc Naturel Interrégional Vienne ·/ ¸0 /·A20 Cre du Marais Poitevin \\# Montluçon #Île de Ré lL CHARENTE- Allier #\\1 La Rochelle use N145 A71 H# MARITIME Roanne p146 ATLANTIC Saintes \\# Limoges Clermont-Ferrand OCEAN #\\ ]# #\\ Cognac Parc Naturel /·A10 Régional Périgord- /·A2V0éTzuèrllee #\\ Limousin La Bourboule /·N21 Gironde /·DORDOGNE A89 \\#Brive-la- Estuary /·A89 Gaillarde Truyère ·/A75 #2 St-Émilio\\#n Sarlat-la-\\# Dordog Canéda Bordeaux ^# Save T ne BBiasycaoyf arn ·/ ¸0 ·/ 0¸RéPgAdai2ore0cnQaNluaCeCtréaucluéryes#\\lseFsigAeVacEYRODN92Pd1aerscCNéavAte7in5onMneae\\#slnde N106 GIRONDE Lot ·/Parc Naturel ArrosLOT-ET- Régional desu A65 GARONNE Landes de Cascogne ·/A62 LANDES TARN-ET- arn T GARONNE ·/Bayonne A70 /·A75 Adour GERS TARN Montpellier ·/Biarritz Parc Naturel #] # ·/ #3#\\#\\ A65 #]5 Toulouse Régional du A64Pa Haut-Languedoc /·^# #\\ HAUTE- Beziers\\# A9 Hondarribia ·/San Pau #\\ Tarbes GARONNE A61 Narbonne #\\ \\# ·/ #Sebastián 6\\# A64 11 GF ¸0 FG /· ·/^# 11 Lourdes \\# Cirque de Carcassonne D18 AUDE A9 Golfe de Beauduc D921 # ¸0Pamplona S P A I N Gavarnie D117 4 #] Perpignan #\\ Jaca ANDORRA : LA :VELLA #_ A N D O R R A ::: : \\# :::

the Vieux Port (Old Port), rays and fearsome including the lacy Tour sharks, teeth-gnashing TRIP HIGHLIGHT 1 La Rochelle de la Lanterne (rue sur les piranhas, timid turtles and the bizarre half- Known as La Ville Murs; adult/child €6/free, 3 newt. Equally fun for Blanche (the White City), families is the Musée La Rochelle is home to towers €8.50/free; h10am- Maritime (Maritime Museum; luminous limestone fa- %05 46 28 03 00; www. cades, arcaded walkways, 1pm & 2.15-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to half-timbered houses and museemaritimelarochelle. ghoulish gargoyles glow- 5.30pm Oct-Mar), that once ing in the bright coastal served to protect the fr; place Bernard Moitessier; sunlight. One of France’s town at night in times of foremost seaports from war. Scale their sturdy adult/child €8/5; h10am-7pm the 14th to the 17th cen- stone heights for fabulous turies, it remains a great city and coastal views. Jul & Aug, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun & FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med seafaring centre and one La Rochelle’s number- Sep, shorter hours rest of year), of France’s most attrac- one tourist attraction with its fleet of boats to tive cities. is its state-of-the-art explore; and a trip out to sea with Croisières There are several aquarium (www.aquarium- Inter-Îles (%08 25 13 55 00; defensive towers around www.inter-iles.com; cours des larochelle.com; quai Louis Dames) to admire the un­ usual iceberg of an island Prunier; adult/child €16/12; fortress, Fort Boyard. h9am-11pm Jul & Aug, 9am- 8pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-8pm Oct-M\\#ar) with UFO-like #\\ \\# #\\ 44 4 p151 The Drive » Using the main 44e#0 A10 toll road it’s 187km (about 0 200 km 2½ hours) to St-Émilion. Turn off 100 miles SW ITZ E R LA N D the A10 at exit 39a, signed for /·N83 4444Annecy #]#]\\#Libourne. Skirt this industrial Ain #\\ \\# town and follow the D243 into Lyon Isè \\# Chamonix- Rhône #^ St-Émilion. #^ Mont-Blanc Aosta /·St- A47 444Étienne #\\ ·/N82 ·/Chambéry #\\ re Tarentaise ]# N6 #] Alpe Rhône 44/·DrGaAc4r9enoble ]# Turin #\\ d'Huez Valence #] Parc Naturel \\# ^# #] Régional du Sestri\\#ere ]# 44/·Privas #\\ A7 ]# Pinerolo LINK #\\ YOUR Vercors ·/N94 I T A L Y TRIP Rhône Mondovi ¸0 ·/D104 Cuneo ]# #\\ #\\ A51 b#] The Pyrenees 0¸ GFGARD ]# ALPES DE D2205 \\# Take a side trip east PROVENCE or west from the A64 to HAUTE-PROVENCE further explore this majestic KmNîmes #] Avignon mountain landscape. \\#Les ALPES-MARITIMES 12 c Riviera Crossing Mees Starting from Nice, ¸0]# this drive takes you further D6185 Nice 1#]0#\\ _# along the coast through the #Arles # H##]7 Aix-en Provence #Parc Naturel 9]#]# MONACO ·/Régional Cannes p150 \\# St-Maximin-la- Ste-Baume Antibes de Camargue#Marseille 8^#: \\# A8 \\# Cassis ]# glitzy, glam French Riviera. Toulon MEDITERRANEAN 145 SEA

FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med TRIP HIGHLIGHT Guided tours of the 3 Biarritz town (adult/child from 2 St-Émilion €8/free) and surrounding Biarritz is as ritzy as chateaux are run by the its name suggests. This Built of soft honey- tourist office (%05 57 55 28 coastal town boomed as coloured rock, medieval 28; www.saint-emilion-tourisme. a resort in the mid-19th St-Émilion produces com; place des Créneaux; century, when regularly some of the world’s finest h9.30am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, visited by Napoléon III red wines. Visiting this shorter hours rest of year); and his Spanish-born pretty town, and partak- reserve ahead in season. wife, Eugénie. Along ing in some of the tours Several tours include tast- its rocky coastline are and activities on offer, ings and vineyard visits. architectural hallmarks is the easiest way to get of this golden age, and the under the (grape) skin of 5 4 p151 belle-époque and art-deco Bordeaux wine produc- eras that followed. tion. The Maison du The Drive » Leave St-Émilion Vin de St-Émilion (www. Biarritz is all about maisonduvinsaintemilion.com; on the D243 to Libourne, cross its fashionable beaches, place Pierre Meyrat; h9.30am- the town, then pick up the D1089 especially the central 12.30pm & 2-6.30pm) runs signposted ‘Agen, Bergerac, Grande Plage and Plage wine-tasting classes and Bordeaux’. Continue on the N89 Miramar. In the heat of has a superb exhibition towards Bordeaux until you see summer you’ll find them covering wine essentials. signs for the A630 toll road – at packed end to end with which point sit back and hit sun-loving bathers. cruise control for the remaining 226km to Biarritz. Count 240km and about 2½ hours in all. DETOUR: ÎLE DE RÉ Start: 1 La Rochelle (p145) Bathed in the southern sun, drenched in a languid atmosphere and scattered with villages of green-shuttered, whitewashed buildings with red Spanish-tile roofs, Île de Ré is one of the most delightful places on the west coast of France. The island spans just 30km from its most easterly and westerly points, and just 5km at its widest section. But take note: the secret’s out and in high season it can be almost impossible to move around and even harder to find a place to stay. On the northern coast about 12km from the toll bridge that links the island to La Rochelle is the quaint fishing port of St-Martin-de-Ré, the island’s main town. Surrounded by 17th-century fortifications (you can stroll along most of the ramparts) constructed by Vauban, the port town is a mesh of streets filled with craft shops, art galleries and sea-spray ocean views. The island’s best beaches are along the southern edge – including unofficial naturist beaches at Rivedoux Plage and La Couarde-sur-Mer – and around the western tip (northeast and southeast of Phare-des-Baleines). Many beaches are bordered by dunes that have been fenced off to protect the vegetation. From La Rochelle it’s 24km and a half-hour drive to St-Martin-de-Ré via the toll bridge, Pont de l’Île de Ré (www.pont-ile-de-re.com; return ticket €16 mid-June to mid-September, €8 rest of the year). 146

The Drive » It’s 208km (2¾ tive pink stone used in TRIP HIGHLIGHT FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med many of its buildings. hours) to the village of Gavarnie. 6 Carcassonne Take the A63 and A64 toll Toulouse’s magnificent roads to exit 11, then the D940 main square, place du Perched on a rocky to Lourdes (worth a look for Capitole, is the city’s hilltop and bristling with its religious Disneyland feel). literal and metaphorical zigzagging battlements, Continue south along D913 and heart. To its south is the stout walls and spiky tur- D921. city’s Vieux Quartier (Old rets, from afar the forti- Quarter), a tangle of lanes fied city of Carcassonne is 4 Cirque de and leafy squares that beg most people’s perfect idea Gavarnie exploration on foot. Then, of a medieval castle. Four of course, there are the million tourists a year The Pyrenees doesn’t soothing twists and turns stream through its city lack impressive scenery, of the Garonne River and gates to explore La Cité but your first sight of mighty Canal du Midi – (enter via Porte Narbonnaise or the Cirque de Gavarnie laced with footpaths and Porte d’Aude; h24hr), visit is guaranteed to raise a likewise clearly created Château Comtal (place du gasp. This breathtaking with stretching your legs Château, La Cité; adult/child mountain amphitheatre in mind. €8.50/free; h10am-6.30pm is one of the region’s most Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-Mar) famous sights, sliced by The sky’s the limit and ogle at stunning thunderous waterfalls at the fantastic Cité de views along the city’s and ringed by sawtooth l’Espace (www.cite-espace. ancient ramparts. peaks, many of which top com/en; av Jean Gonord; adult out at above 3000m. €21-25.50, child €15.50-19; The Drive » Continue down h10am-7pm daily Jul & Aug, to There are a couple of 5pm or 6pm Sep-Dec & Feb-Jun, the A61 to the Catalan-flavoured large car parks in the closed Mon Feb, Mar & Sep-Dec, town of Narbonne, where you join village of Gavarnie, from closed Jan). Since WWII, the A9 (very busy in summer) where it’s a two-hour walk Toulouse has been the and head east to Nîmes. From to the amphitheatre. Wear centre of France’s aero- there the A54 will take you into proper shoes, as snow space industry, developing Arles. Allow just over two hours to lingers along the trail into many important aircraft cover the 223km and expect lots early summer. Between (including Concorde of toll booths. Easter and October you and the Airbus A380) as can go by horse or donkey well as components for 7 Arles (around €25 return). many international space programs. The museum Arles’ poster boy is the The Drive » Retrace your brings this interstellar celebrated impressionist industry vividly to life painter Vincent van Gogh. steps to Lourdes, then take the through hands-on exhibits If you’re familiar with his N21 toward Tarbes and veer including a shuttle simula- work, you’ll be familiar onto the A64 to reach Toulouse. tor, a planetarium, a 3D with Arles: the light, the It takes nearly three hours to cinema and a simulated colours, the landmarks cover the 228km. observatory. and the atmosphere, all faithfully captured. But 5 Toulouse 5 4 p151 long before Van Gogh ren- dered this grand Rhône Elegantly sited at the con- The Drive » It’s an easy 95km River locale on canvas, the fluence of the Canal du Romans valued its worth. Midi and Garonne River, (one hour) down the fast A61 to Today it’s the reminders the vibrant southern Carcassonne. Notice how the of Rome that are probably city of Toulouse is often vegetation becomes suddenly the town’s most memora- known as La Ville Rose, much more Mediterranean about ble attractions. a reference to the distinc- 15 minutes out of Toulouse. 147

NADIIA GERBISH / SHUTTERSTOCK © DELPIXEL / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP NICOLA WILLIAMS, WRITER I’m a sucker for the big blue and fine wine, so this seafaring trip is right up my alley. Feasting on fresh oysters on the seashore aside, I strongly advise lingering over lunch at La Terrasse Rouge (p151) near St-Émilion. This spectacular vineyard restaurant was borne out of Jean Nouvel’s designer revamp of Château La Dominique’s wine cellars: dining on its uber-chic terrace overlooking a field of dark- red glass pebbles is the ultimate French road-trip reward. Top & Left: St-Emilion Right: Cathedral & MuCEM, Marseilles