Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

TOP TIP: monumental work of the GUEST CARDS legendary artist-brothers, Dominikus and Johann Overnight anywhere in the Alps and your hotel Baptist Zimmermann. should issue you with a free Gästekarte, which gives free bus travel as well as many other discounts on In 1730 a farmer in admission and activities. Steingaden claimed he’d witnessed the miracle of niskirche (Vorderer Anger) is melfahrt (Kirchenstrasse 23), his Christ statue shedding GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road a creation by the baroque which sports a choir by tears. Pilgrims poured into architect Dominikus Dominikus Zimmermann. the town in such numbers Zimmermann, who lived over the next decade that in Landsberg and even The Drive » To reach the the local abbot commis- served as its mayor. The sioned a new church to town’s Neues Stadtmuse- next Romantic Road stop, the house the weepy work. um (www.museum-landsberg. Wieskirche (21km away), take Inside the almost-circular de; Von-Helfenstain-Gasse 426; the B17 south until you reach structure, eight snow-white adult/concession €3.50/2; Steingaden. From there country pillars are topped by gold h2-5pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat roads lead east and then south capital stones and swirling & Sun May-Jan, closed Feb-Apr) to Wies. This is where Bavaria decorations. The unsup- tells Landsberg’s tale starts to take on the look of ported dome must have from prehistory to the the Alps, with flower-filled seemed like God’s work 20th century. meadows in summer and views in the mid-17th century, of the high peaks when the its surface adorned with The Drive » Still tracing weather is clear. a pastel ceiling fresco celebrating Christ’s the valley of the River Lech, c Wieskirche resurrection. the 28km drive along the B17 between Landsberg am Lech Located in the village The Drive » From the and Schongau shouldn’t take of Wies, the Wieskirche more than 30 minutes. En route (%08862-932 930; www. Wieskirche, the best way to you pass through Hohenfurch, a wieskirche.de; h8am-8pm Apr- reach the next stop at Füssen is pretty little town regarded as the Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) is one to backtrack to Steingaden and gateway to the Pfaffenwinkel, a of Bavaria’s best-known rejoin the B17 there. The entire foothill region of the Alps. baroque churches and journey is 27km through the a Unesco-listed site, the increasingly undulating foothills of the Alps, with some gorgeous views of the ever-nearing peaks along the way. b Schongau LANDSBERG’S DARK LITERARY CONNECTIONS One of the lesser-visited stops on the Romantic Landsberg am Lech can claim to be the town where Road, the attractive town one of the German language’s best-selling books of Schongau is known for was written. Was it a work by Goethe, Remarque, its largely intact medieval Brecht? No, unfortunately, it was Adolf Hitler. It was defences. The Gothic during his 264 days of incarceration in a Landsberg Ballenhaus (Marienplatz jail, following the 1923 beer-hall putsch, that Hitler 2) served as the town penned his hate-filled Mein Kampf, a book that sold hall until 1902 and has a an estimated seven million copies when published. distinctive stepped gable. The jail later held Nazi war criminals and is still in use. It now houses a cafe. Other attractions include the Church of Maria Him- 499

PAUL BIRIS / GETTY IMAGES ©d Füssen 73 (www.rvo-bus.de) run there from Füssen Bahnhof (€4.40 GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road Nestled at the foot of the return, eight minutes, at least Alps, tourist-busy Füssen hourly, buy tickets from the is all about the nearby driver). castles of Neuschwan- stein and Hohenschwan- TRIP HIGHLIGHT gau, but there are other reasons to linger longer e Neuschwanstein in the area. The town’s & Hohenschwangau historical centre is worth Castles half a day’s exploration and, from here, you can The undisputed high- easily escape from the lights of any trip to crowds into a landscape Bavaria, these two castles of gentle hiking trails make a fitting climax to and Alpine vistas. When the Romantic Road. you’ve had your fill of these, take an hour or Schloss Neuschwan- two to drop by Füssen’s stein (%tickets 08362-930 very own castle, the 830; www.neuschwanstein. Hohes Schloss (Magnus- de; Neuschwansteinstrasse platz 10; adult/concession 20; adult/concession €12/11, €6/4; hgalleries 11am-5pm incl Hohenschwangau €23/21; Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 1-4pm Fri-Sun h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct, Nov-Mar), today home to 10am-4pm mid-Oct–Mar) was an art gallery. the model for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle. 5 4 p503 King Ludwig II planned this fairy-tale pile The Drive » To drive to King himself, with the help of a stage designer rather Ludwig II’s castles, take the B17 than an architect. He across the river until you see envisioned it as a giant the signs for Hohenschwangau. stage on which to recre- Parking is at a premium in ate the world of Germanic summer. However, as the castles mythology, inspired by are a mere 4km from the centre the operatic works of his of Füssen it’s probably not worth friend Richard Wagner. driving at all. RVO buses 78 and TOP TIP: VISITING NEUSCHWANSTEIN & HOHENSCHWANGAU CASTLES The castles can only be visited on guided tours (35 minutes). Buy timed tickets from the Ticket Centre (%08362-930 830; www.hohenschwangau.de; Alpenseestrasse 12; h8am- 5.30pm Apr–mid-Oct, 9am-3.30pm mid-Oct–Mar) at the foot of the castles. In summer, arrive as early as 8am to ensure you get in that day. 500

Bavaria Schloss Neuschwanstein It was at nearby Neuschwanstein €23/21; 1886. His father, Maximil- h8am-5.30pm Apr–mid-Oct, ian II, built this palace in Schloss Hohenschwan- 9am-3.30pm mid-Oct–Mar) a neo-Gothic style atop gau (%08362-930 830; that King Ludwig II grew 12th-century ruins. Less www.hohenschwangau.de; up and later enjoyed sum- showy than Neuschwan- Alpseestrasse 30; adult/ mers until his death in stein, Hohenschwangau concession €12/11, incl 501

Eating & Sleeping Würzburg 1 5 Zur Höll Franconian €€ GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road (%09861-4229; www.hoell.rothenburg.de; 5 Bürgerspital Burggasse 8; mains €6.80-20; h5-11pm) This Weinstube Wine Restaurant €€ medieval wine tavern is in the town’s oldest original building, with sections dating back to (%0931-352 880; Theaterstrasse 19; mains €13- the year 900. The menu of regional specialities 24; h10am-11pm) If you are going to eat out just is limited but refined, though it’s the superb once in Würzburg, the aromatic and cosy nooks selection of Franconian wines that people really of this labyrinthine medieval place probably come for. provide the top local experience. Choose from a broad selection of Franconian wines (some of Dinkelsbühl 5 Germany’s best) and wonderful regional dishes and snacks, including Mostsuppe (a tasty wine 5 Haus soup). Appelberg Franconian, International €€ 4 Hotel Rebstock Hotel €€ (%09851-582 838; www.haus-appelberg.de; Nördlinger Strasse 40; dishes €6-11; h6pm- (%0931-309 30; www.rebstock.com; midnight Mon-Sat) At this 40-cover wine restaurant, the owners double up as cooks to Neubaustrasse 7; s/d from €92/113; aiW) keep tables supplied with traditional dishes such as local fish, Franconian sausages and Würzburg’s top digs, in a squarely renovated Maultaschen (pork and spinach ravioli). On warm days swap the rustic interior for the rococo townhouse, has 70 unique, stylishly secluded terrace, a fine spot for some evening idling over a Franconian white. finished rooms with the gamut of amenities, impeccable service and an Altstadt location. A pillow selection and supercomfy ‘gel’ beds should ease you into slumberland, perhaps after a fine meal in the dramatic bistro or the slick Michelin-star restaurant. 4 Dinkelsbühler Rothenburg ob der Tauber 4 Kunst-Stuben Guesthouse €€ (%09851-6750; www.kunst-stuben.de; 5 Mittermeier Bavarian €€ Segringer Strasse 52; s €60, d €80-85, ste €90; (%09861-945 430; www.villamittermeier. niW) Personal attention and charm by the de; Vorm Würzburger Tor 7; mains €12-19; bucketload make this guesthouse, situated near h6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; pW) Supporters of the the westernmost gate (Segringer Tor), one of slow food movement and deserved holders of the best on the entire Romantic Road. Furniture a Michelin Bib Gourmand, this hotel restaurant (including the four-posters) is all handmade pairs punctilious craftsmanship with top-notch by Voglauer, the cosy library is perfect for ingredients, sourced regionally whenever curling up in with a good read, and the suite is a possible. There are five different dining areas matchless deal for travelling families. The artist including a black-and-white tiled ‘temple’, and owner will show his Asia travel films if enough alfresco terrace and a barrel-shaped wine cellar. guests are interested. The wine list is one of the best in Franconia. 502

Nördlingen 6 pniWs) Augsburg’s top choice packs a 500-year-old former bishop’s guesthouse 5 La Fontana Italian € (Martin Luther and Kaiser Maxmilian I stayed here) with 57 rooms, all different but sharing a (Bei den Kornschrannen 2; mains around €8; stylishly understated air and pristine upkeep; some have cathedral views. However, the big h11am-11pm) Nördlingen’s most popular pluses here are the large swimming pool, fitness centre and solarium. Parking is an extra €6. restaurant is this large Italian pizza-pasta place occupying the terracotta Kornschrannen as well as tumbling tables out onto Schrannenstrasse. The menu is long, the service swift and when Füssen d the sun is shining there’s no lovelier spot to fill GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road the hole. 5 Zum Franziskaner Bavarian €€ 4 Kaiserhof Hotel Sonne Hotel €€ (Kemptener Strasse 1; mains €6-19.50; hnoon- (%09081-5067; www.kaiserhof-hotel-sonne.de; 11pm) This revamped restaurant specialises Marktplatz 3; s €55-75, d €80-120; pW) Right on the main square, Nördlingen’s top digs once in Schweinshaxe (pork knuckle) and schnitzel, hosted crowned heads and their entourages, but have quietly gone to seed in recent years. prepared in more varieties than you can shake However, rooms are still packed with character, mixing modern comforts with traditional charm, a haunch at. There’s some choice for non- and the atmospheric regional restaurant downstairs is still worth a shot. carnivores such as Käsespätzle (rolled cheese noodles) and salads, and when the sun shines the outdoor seating shares the pavement with the ‘foot-washing’ statue. 5 Zum Hechten Bavarian €€ (Ritterstrasse 6; mains €8-19; h10am-10pm) Augsburg 9 Füssen’s best hotel restaurant keeps things 5 August regional with a menu of Allgäu staples like International €€€ schnitzel and noodles, Bavarian pork-themed (%0821-352 79; Frauentorstrasse 27; dinner favourites, and local specialities such as €130; hfrom 7pm Wed-Sat) Most Augsburgers venison goulash from the Ammertal. Post- have little inkling their city possesses two meal, relax in the wood-panelled dining room Michelin stars, both of which belong to chef caressing a König Ludwig Dunkel, one of Christian Grünwald. Treat yourself to some Germany’s best dark beers brewed by the of Bavaria’s most innovative cooking in the current head of the Wittelsbach family. minimalist dining room, though with just 16 4 Hotel Sonne Design Hotel €€ covers, reservations are essential. (%08362-9080; www.hotel-sonne.de; 5 Bauerntanz German €€ Prinzregentenplatz 1; s/d from €89/109; pW) (Bauerntanzgässchen 1; mains €7-17; h11am- Although traditional looking from outside, 11.30pm) Belly-satisfying helpings of creative this Altstadt favourite offers an unexpected Swabian and Bavarian food – Spätzle (a kind of design-hotel experience within. Themed rooms soft egg noodle or dumpling) and more Spätzle – feature everything from swooping bed canopies are plated up by friendly staff at this prim Alpine to big-print wallpaper, huge pieces of wall art tavern with lace curtains, hefty timber interior to sumptious fabrics. The public spaces are and chequered fabrics. When the sun makes littered with pieces of art, period costumes and an appearance, everyone bails for the outdoor design features – the overall effect is impressive seating. and unusual for this part of Germany. 4 Dom Hotel Hotel €€ (%0821-343 930; www.domhotel-augsburg. de; Frauentorstrasse 8; s €70-150, d €95-190; 503

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SERGEY KOHL / 500PX © German Fairy 36Tale Road You might just live happily ever after! You’ll certainly end this trip happy, having explored a beautiful swath of Germany and learned the real stories behind Brothers Grimm fairy tales. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5 DAYS 705 KM / 440 MILES 642 km mKBremerhaven Bremen # GREAT FOR… See the home (and #1#2 statue) of the Town BJG Musicians of Bremen BEST TIME TO GO 468 km # Hamelin Enjoy this trip May to You don't have to be a Hanover September. rat to be led to this captivating town #1#0 I ESSENTIAL PHOTO 276 km # Göttingen Kassel Bremen’s Town Brothers Grimm at the ##5 Musicians of Bremen unmissable sculpture. Grimmwelt ##3 K BEST FOR 160 km lLHanau # FAMILIES Marburg Imagine yourself living Grimmwelt, Kassel’s in a fairy tale in this new attraction beautiful old town dedicated to all things Brothers Grimm and fairy-tale-worthy. Marburg St Elizabeth’s Church 505

Aurich Wilmhelmshaven #\\ #] #] Nordenham #\\ e# 0 40 km 0 20 miles 36 German Fairy Tale #\\Leer Road Ems Oldenburg ]# Tirelessly roaming the villages and towns of 19th- gge century Germany, the Brothers Grimm collected 209 0¸B401 folk tales that had been passed down for countless generations. The stories they published often bear Cloppenburg little resemblance to the sanitised versions spoon- fed to kids today; rather they are morality tales with Sudradde #\\ blood, gore, sex, the supernatural, magic and much more. See the locations of the stories and learn about Meppen these remarkable brothers on this trip, which includes a few non-Grimm fairy-tale sights as well. #\\ \\# Lingen #\\ Diepholz \\# Ibbenbüren ]# Osnabruck #\\ Rheine Münster Ems ]# Gütersloh \\# ]# Ahlen Li ppeLipp#\\stadt ·/A1 #\\ Hamm \\# Soest #\\ #^Dortmund hanau; Philippsruher Allee 1 Hanau 45; adult/concession €4/3; Hagen Ruhr Arnsberg h11am-6pm Tue-Sun) has #\\ \\# Iserlohn \\# A mere 20km east of displays on town history, Frankfurt on the Main and arts and crafts. The #\\ River, Hanau is the parks and gardens (free) birthplace of the Brothers are a beautiful stroll in Meschede Grimm (Jacob in 1785 snow or in summer. #^ and Wilhelm in 1786) and #\\ Ludenscheid is a perfect place to begin The Drive » Hop on the A66 this trip. Not that their Gummersbach Bi birth is especially com- for a quick 50km run through\\# \\# memorated here… the rolling hills to Steinau. #\\ Olpe Located within 2 Steinau #\\ Kreuztal Philippsruhe Palace, dat- ing from the early 18th Steinau is situated on \\# Siegen century, the Historisches the historic trade road R Sieg between Frankfurt and Museum Schloss Philipp- Leipzig. (Note that the /·A45 sruhe (%06181-295 564; full name of the town i#\\s www.hanau.de/kultur/museen/ Wetzlar #\\ Neuwied #\\ ]# Koblenz \\# Limburg La hn \\# GF/·A6134 Wiesbaden /·B42 ]# 506 \\# Mainz #] #\\ \\##\\#\\ #\\ \\# \\# \\# \\# \\# #\\ \\#

Km \\#Stade Hamburg /·A24 ‘Steinau an der Strasse’, an important distinction #]#13 Bremerhaven #^ when using your map app as there’s another ·/B71 #\\ Bremervörde /·B5 Steinau way up by the ·/A27 North Sea.) ·/B71 #\\ #\\ Lüneburg The twin musuems, Buchholz Brüder Grimm-Haus in der and Museum Steinau (%06663-7605; www.brueder- Nordheide grimm-haus.de; Brüder Grimm- Strasse 80, Steinau; adult/ BremenWeser Wumm Soltau \\# #\\ Uelzen concession €6/3.50; h10am- e 5pm), inside the building #^#12 ·/A27 where the Grimm family GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road lived from 1791 to 1796, \\# have exhibits on the brothers, their work and Delmenhorst Weser the history of Steinau. Aller The Drive » Exit Steinau to A7 \\# Celle /· ·/\\# B4 the west on the L3196 for 18km #\\ Nienburg to the B276 where you’ll turn north. Weave through the valleys 0¸A352 Gifhorn for 64km until the junction Garbsen with the L3166 and follow the ##\\ Hanover Oker \\# Marburg signs along the L3127, 11 L3089, L3048 and L3125 to your Wolfsburg ]# #\\destination. Picnic spots abound along the route. \\# Minden Braunschweig ]# LINK ¸0Bünde YOUR \\# Bad Wes B217 Hildesheim Wolfenbuttel TRIP Salzuflen ]# A39 #\\ #\\ y Romantic Rhine #·/ /· ·/]# er Get your fill of castles 1#\\0 Hamelin Salzgitter and medieval villages: the \\# end of the river trip is 65km east of Hanau. Bielefeld B83 B3 #\\# 9 z The Romantic Bodenwerder Goslar Road #\\ Detmold \\# Do one of the trips in ·/B83 Harz NP R reverse: the start of the B(1r1o4c1kmen) quaint and historical Höxter \\# #\\ Romantic Road is about an hour (110km) west from #\\ Paderborn #8 Osterode Hanau. am Harz 507 Bad Karlshafen /· #B80 7]# Göttingen 0¸L561 Kassel /·A7 ·/L eine A38 ##Korbach rra Wilhelmshöhe 5 We da #\\ 6 Kellerwald-Edersee Mühlhausen #\\ Unstr ut Hainich NP #National Park 4 Eder ·/A49 ·/B7 Eder Ful ·/Bad A4 \\# Hersfeld Eisenach #\\ #3\\# Marburg ·/A5 Schmalkalden /·A7 #\\ Werra Giessen #] \\# Fulda #\\ Meiningen \\# Suhl ¸0 H#B276 p508 ·/A71 0¸L3196 ##\\2 S\\#chwMeainifnurt Frankfurt /·A66 Steinau /·A70 am Main 48 km to ‚ #^# #\\1 FG35 LlHanau

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road TRIP HIGHLIGHT focal Marktplatz is the St-Marien-Kirche or the historic Rathaus (town Marktplatz, is the mas- 3 Marburg hall), dating to 1512. At sive Landgrafenschloss the base of the Altstadt’s (%991 20; www.uni-marburg. Hilly, historic and delight- Reitgasse is the neo- de/uni-museum; Schloss ful, the university town Gothic Alte Universität 1; adult/concession €4/3; of Marburg is situated (1891), still a well-used h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), built 90km north of Frankfurt. and well-loved part of between 1248 and 1300. It’s a delight to wander Philipps-Universität – the It offers panoramic views around the narrow lanes world’s oldest Protestant of bucolic hills, jumbled of the town’s vibrant university. Founded in Marburg rooftops and Altstadt (old town), sand- 1527, it once counted the the Schlosspark. wiched between a palace Brothers Grimm among (above) and the spec- its students. 5 4 p516 tacular Gothic church, St Elizabeth’s (below). Perched at the high- The Drive » Leave Marburg On the south side of the est point in town, a steep walk up from to the north on the B3, after 18km turn north on the L3073. Continue north for DETOUR: FULDA Start: 2 Steinau (p506) Although it’s not quite on the Fairy Tale Road, photogenic Fulda is well worth a side trip for those interested in sumptuous baroque architecture, historic churches and religious reliquaries. A Benedictine monastery was founded here in 744, and today Fulda has its own bishop. Inside the baroque Dom zu Fulda (%0661-874 57; www.bistum-fulda.de; Domplatz 1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, 1-6pm Sun), built from 1704 to 1712, you’ll find gilded furnishings, plenty of putti (figures of infant boys), some dramatic statues (eg to the left of the altar) and the tomb of St Boniface, who died a martyr in 754. Fulda’s history started in Michaelskirche (Michaelsberg 1; h10am-5pm). A still- standing reminder of the abbey that made this town, this remarkable church was the monastic burial chapel. Beneath classic witch’s-hat towers, a Carolingian rotunda and crypt recall Fulda’s flourishing Middle Ages, when the abbey scriptorium churned out top-flight illuminated manuscripts. Don’t miss Fulda’s spectacular Stadtschloss (%0661-1020; a​ dult/concession €3.50/2.30; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), built from 1706 to 1721 as the prince-abbots’ residence. It now houses the city administration and function rooms. Visitors can enter the ornate Historiche Räume (historic rooms), including the grandiose banquet hall, and the octagonal Schlossturm (April to October) for great views of the town and magnificent Schlossgarten (palace gardens), where locals play pétanque (boules) and sunbathe in summer. The palace’s fairy-tale qualities capture the era’s extravagance. Don’t miss the amazing Speigelkabinett (Chamber of Mirrors) and grandiose Fürstensaal, a banquet hall decorated with reliefs of tipsy-looking wine queens. Also, there are pretty views from the Green Room over the gardens to the Orangerie. Fulda is a mere 40km northeast of Steinau on the A66. 508

37km through Gemunden and to 5pm Nov-Mar) at the west- Tue & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed) GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road Frankenau to Edertal where ern end of the Edersee. aims at burying the taboo you’ll find the park. Note how of discussing death. the forest gets thicker and The Drive » Drive east on darker as you go. 5 4 p516 the L3332, B485 and the B253 4 Kellerwald- for 28km until you reach the The Drive » Your shortest Edersee National A49 autobahn and zip along Park northeast until you reach Kassel. jaunt of the trip takes you 6km west through Kassel’s leafy Kellerwald-Edersee Na- TRIP HIGHLIGHT suburbs. Take Wilhelmshöher tional Park (www.national Allee. park-kellerwald-edersee.de) 5 Kassel encompasses one of the 6 Wilhelmshöhe largest extant red-beech Visitors to this culture- forests in Central Europe, rich, sprawling hub on Wilhelmshöhe is the the Kellerwald, and the the Fulda River discover classy end of Kassel. Edersee, a serpentine a pleasant, modern city. You can spend a full day artificial reservoir 55km exploring the spectacu- northeast of Marburg and Occupying a prime lar baroque parkland, about the same distance position atop the Wein- Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe southwest of Kassel. In berg bunker in the scenic (www.museum-kassel.de; 2011 this national park, Weinbergpark is the h9am-sunset), which takes along with Hainich Na- truly most unmissable its name from Schloss tional Park in Thuringia attraction on this trip: Wilhelmshöhe (%0561-316 and a cluster of other Kassel’s newest musuem, 800; www.museum-kassel.de; parks and reserves with Grimmwelt (%0561-598 Schlosspark 1; adult/concession large beech forests, 610; www.grimmwelt.de; Wein- €6/4, Weissenstein wing incl became a Unesco World bergstrasse; adult/concession tour €4/3; h10am-5pm Tue Cultural Heritage site. €8/6; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed), the It could be described as late-18th-century palace On a fairy-tale trip, it’s an architect-designed situated inside the ex- fitting to wander into the walk-in sculpture hous- panse. Walk through the deep woods, never forget- ing the most significant forest, enjoy a romantic ting that if your name is collection of Brothers picnic and explore the Grimm, nothing good is Grimm memorabilia on castles, fountains, grot- bound to happen. If you’re the planet. Visitors are toes, statues and water lucky, you may see larger guided around original features: the Herkules land animals including exhibits, state-of-the-art (www.museum-kassel.de; red deer; while overhead installations and fun, Schlosspark Wilhelmshöhe 26, you might spot eagles and hands-on activities, Herkules-Terrassen; adult/ honey buzzards and, at aided by entries from the concession €3/2; h10am-5pm night, various species of Grimms’ German dic- mid-Mar–mid-Nov) statue bat. (The brothers would tionary: there were more and Löwenburg castle are approve of that.) to these famous brothers also here. than just fairy tales, For information, head didn’t you know? The palace could star to the striking modern in any fairy tale. Home visitors centre (%05635- Billed as ‘a medita- to Elector Wilhelm and 992 781; www.nationalpark tive space for funerary later Kaiser Wilhelm II, zentrum-kellerwald.de; B252, art’, the Museum für the opulent complex today Vöhl-Herzhausen; e-bikes per Sepulkralkultur (Museum of houses one of Germany’s day €20; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, Sepulchral Culture; %0561-918 best collections of Flem- 930; www.sepulkralmuseum.de; ish and Dutch baroque Weinbergstrasse 25-27; adult/ concession €6/4; h10am-5pm 509

FRANK KRAHMER / GETTY IMAGES © ONE AND ONLY / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP RYAN VER BERKMOES, AUTHOR Did they give us nightmares or fantasies? Or both? Who can forget hearing the wild stories of the Brothers Grimm as a child? Evil stepmothers, dashing princes, fair maidens, clever animals, mean old wolves and more. With every passing year, these stories become more sanitised. But the real fairy tales are far more compelling, as you’ll learn on this trip. Top: Beech trees in Kellerwald-Edersee National Park Left: Brothers Grimm sculpture in Hanau Right: The exterior of an old building in Marburg

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Roadpaintings, featuring works by Rembrandt, BRUCE YUANYUE BI / GETTY IMAGES © Rubens, Jordaens, Lucas Cranach the Elder, Dürer and many others in the Gemäldegalerie (painting gallery). 5 4 p516 The Drive » Retrace your 6km drive on Wilhelmshöher Allee into Kassel and take the busy A7 right up to Göttingen. 7 Göttingen With over 30,000 students, this historic town nestled in a corner of Lower Saxony near the Hesse border offers a good taste of university- town life in Germany’s north. Since 1734, the Georg-August Universität has sent more than 40 Nobel Prize winners into the world. As well as all those award-winning doctors and scientists, it also produced the fairy-tale-writing Broth- ers Grimm (as German linguistic teachers). Be sure to stroll around the pleasant Markt and nearby Barfüsser-strasse to admire the Fachwerk (half-timbered) houses. The city’s symbol, the Gänseliesel (little goose girl) statue on Markt is hailed locally as the most kissed woman in the world – not a flatter- ing moniker, you might think, but enough to make her iconic. 5 p517 511

GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road The Drive » Take the L561 minder of his grand plans how many were eaten by is a tiny Hafenbecken big bad wolves in the forest 22km west to the B80, then (harbour basin) trafficked during the journey. head northwest for another by white swans. 27km to Bad Karlshafen. You’ll The Drive » Just stay on enjoy the curving panoramas Take a stroll around the as you follow the Weser River, town centre, on the sinu- B83 for the 58km right to which links several of the Fairy ous Weser River’s south Bodenwerder. You’ll enjoy Weser Tale Road towns and cities. bank, with the Hafen- vistas for much of the journey – becken and surrounding which might lure you to stop for 8 Bad Karlshafen square, Hafenplatz, at its a picnic. western end. Bad Karlshafen’s orderly 9 Bodenwerder streets and whitewashed The interesting baroque buildings were If Bodenwerder’s most built in the 18th century Deutsches Huguenotten famous son were to for the local earl Karl Museum (German Huguenot have described his little by French Huguenot Museum; %05672-1410; www. hometown, he’d probably refugees. The town was huguenot-museum-germany. have painted it as a huge, planned with an impres- com; Hafenplatz 9a; adult/ thriving metropolis on sive harbour and a canal concession €4/2; h10am-5pm the Weser River. But then connecting the Weser Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun Baron Hieronymous von with the Rhine to attract mid-Mar–Oct, 10am-noon Mon-Fri Münchhausen (1720–97) trade, but the earl died Nov–mid-Mar) traces the his- was one of history’s before his designs were tory of the French Hugeu- most shameless liars (his completed. The only re- not refugees in Germany, whoppers were no mere although it fails to mention GRIMM FAIRY TALES In the early 19th century the Brothers Grimm travelled extensively through central Germany documenting folklore. Their collection of tales, Kinder- und Hausmärchen, was first published in 1812 and quickly gained international recognition. It has 209 tales and includes such fairy-tale staples as: »»Hansel and Gretel – A mother tries to ditch her son and daughter, a witch tries to eat them and Gretal outsmarts her. Kids and father reunite and all are happy (the evil mum has died). »»Cinderella – The story that gave step-sisters a bad name. Still, when the prince fits the shoe onto our heroine, all is good with the world, although in the Grimm version, the step-sisters are blinded by vengeful doves. »»Rapunzel – An adopted girl with very long hair, a prince that goes blind and some evil older women are combined in this morality play that ends on a love note when the prince stumbles upon an outcast Rapunzel and his sight is restored. In the first edition of the Grimm’s book, Rapunzel bore children out of wedlock. For entertaining synopses of all the Grimm fairy tales, see www.shmoop.com/ grimms-fairy-tales. One thing you’ll note is that the Grimm original versions are much bloodier, more violent and earthier than the ultra-sanitised, Disneyfied versions today. Although best known for their fairy tales, it should be be noted that the Brothers Grimm were serious academics who also wrote German Grammar and History of the German Language, enduring works that populate reference shelves to this day. 512

fairy tales). He inspired THE FAIRY TALE ROAD GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road the Terry Gilliam cult film, The Adventures of The 600km Märchenstrasse (Fairy Tale Road; www. Baron Munchausen. deutsche-maerchenstrasse.com/en) is one of Germany’s most popular tourist routes, with over 60 stops Bodenwerder’s along the way. It’s made up of cities, towns and principal attraction, the hamlets in four states (Hesse, Lower Saxony, North Münchhausen Museum Rhine-Westphalia and Bremen), which can often be (%05533-409 147; Münch- reached by using a choice of roads rather than one hausenplatz 1; adult/child single route. The towns are associated in one way or €2.50/1.50; h10am-5pm another with the works of Wilhelm and Jacob Grimm. Apr-Oct), tackles the Although most towns can be easily visited using difficult task of convey- public transport, a car lets you fully explore the route. ing the chaos and fun associated with the ‘liar brass rats adorn the sights b Hanover baron’ – a man who around town. liked to regale dinner Known for its huge trade guests with his Crimean Rodents aside, Hame- shows, Hanover has a adventures, claiming he lin (Hameln in German) past: from 1714, monarchs had, for example, tied his is a pleasant town with from the house of Hanover horse to a church steeple half-timbered houses and also ruled Great Britain during a snow drift and opportunities for cycling and the entire British Em- ridden around a dining along the Weser River, pire for over a century. table without breaking on the eastern bank of one teacup. Among other which lies Hamelin’s Let your hair down artefacts, it also has circular Altstadt. The at the spectacularly paintings and displays of town’s heart is its Markt. baroque Herrenhäuser Münchhausen books in Gärten (%0511-1683 4000; many languages. Many of Hamelin’s www.hannover.de/Herren- finest buildings were hausen; Herrenhäuser Strasse The Drive » The unofficial constructed in the Weser 4; general admission free; Renaissance style, which h9am-6pm, grotto to 5.30pm spine for some of the Fairy has strong Italian influ- Apr-Oct, 9am-4.30pm, grotto Tale Road route, the B83 again ences. Learn more at the to 4pm Nov-Mar; XHannover takes you north, for 23km from town’s revamped Muse- Herrenhäuser Gärten), the Bodenwerder to Hamelin. um Hamelin (%05151-202 grandiose baroque Royal 1215; www.museum-hameln. Gardens of Herrenhausen, TRIP HIGHLIGHT de; Osterstrasse 8-9; adult/ which are considered one concession €5/4; h11am- of the most important a Hamelin 6pm Tue-Sun), which has historic garden landscapes historical displays. in Europe. Inspired by According to the Brothers the gardens at Versailles, Grimm in The Pied Piper 5 4 p517 they’re a great place to of Hamelin, in the 13th slow down and smell the century the Pied Piper The Drive » Leave the roses for a couple of hours, (Der Rattenfänger) was especially on a blue-sky employed by Hamelin’s pastoral charms of Hamelin as day. With its fountains, townsfolk to lure its ro- you drive 47km northwest on neat flowerbeds, trimmed dents into the river. When the B217 to the modern vibe of hedges and shaped lawns, they refused to pay him, busy Hanover. the 300-year-old Grosser he picked up his flute and led their kids away. Today, the rats rule once again – fluffy and cute stuffed rats, wooden rats, and tiny 513

WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ©Garten (Great Garden) is high Knight Roland statue the centrepiece of the (1404). As elsewhere, GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road experience. Roland stands for the civic freedoms of a city, The Drive » Germany’s especially the freedom to Bremerhaven has trade independently. long been a conduit that famed autobahns make quick gathered the ‘huddled work of the 127km to Bremen: On the western side of masses’ from the verdant take the A352 16km to the A7, the Rathaus you’ll find the but poor countryside then shoot northwest on that city’s unmissable and fa- and poured them into road and the A27. It will feel like mous symbol of the Grimm the world outside. Of the you’ve arrived before you left, fairy tale: the Town Musi- millions who landed in unless you get caught in a Stau cians of Bremen (1951) America, a large propor- (traffic jam). by the sculptor Gerhard tion sailed from here, Marcks. The story tells and an enticing exhibi- TRIP HIGHLIGHT of a donkey, a dog, a cat tion at the Deutsches and a rooster who know Auswandererhaus (German c Bremen their time is up with their cruel masters, so set out for Emigration Centre; %0471-902 Bremen is well known for Bremen and the good life. its fairy-tale character, On the way they encounter a unique expressionist a forest cottage filled with quarter and (it must be robbers. They cleverly dis- said, because Bremeners patch the crooks and, yes, are avid football fans) live happily ever after. The one of Germany’s most statue depicts the dog, cat exciting football teams. and rooster, one on top of the other, on the shoulders With high, historic of the donkey. The donkey’s buildings rising up from nose and front legs are in- this very compact square, credibly shiny having been Bremen’s Markt is one touched by many visitors of the most remarkable for good luck. in northern Germany. The two towers of the 5 4 p517 1200-year-old Dom St The Drive » Another quick Petri (St Petri Cathedral; %0421-334 7142; www. shot up the autobahn, the stpetridom.de; Sandstrasse A27, for 65km will bring you to 10-12; tower adult/conces- Bremerhaven and the North Sea. sion €1/0.70, museum €3/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm d Bremerhaven Sat, 2-5pm Sun) dominate the northeastern edge, Anyone who has had the beside the ornate and fairy-tale dream of run- imposing Rathaus, which ning away to sea will love was erected in 1410. Bremerhaven’s water- The Weser Renaissance front – part machinery of balcony in the middle, the trade, part glistening crowned by three gables, glass buildings pointing was added between 1595 to a more recent under- and 1618. standing of its harbour as a recreation spot. In front of the Rathaus is one of the hallmarks of Bremen, the city’s 13m- 514

Bremen Knight Roland statue in the Markt 200; www.dah-bremerhaven. The museum stands ex- a steamer. You then get de; Columbusstrasse 65; adult/ actly in the spot where 7.2 to visit passenger cabins concession €12.60/10.60; million emigrants set sail from different periods h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am- between 1830 and 1974. (note the improving com- 5pm Nov-Feb), the city’s Your visit begins at the fort levels) before going prime attraction, allows wharf where passengers through the immigration you to share their history. gathered before boarding process at Ellis Island. 515

Eating & Sleeping GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road Marburg 3 Kassel 5 5 Bückingsgarten German €€ 5 Lohmann German €€ (%06421-165 7771; www.bueckingsgarten- (%0561-701 6875; www.lohmann-kassel.de; marburg.de; Landgraf-Philipp-Strasse 6; mains Königstor 8; mains €8-18; hnoon-11pm Sun-Fri, €8-24; hnoon-10pm) Choose from two 5-11pm Sat) With roots that go back to 1888, separate menus at this historical restaurant this popular, family-run Kneipe (pub) has an with a spectacular hilltop position adjacent old-style birch-and-maple-shaded beer garden to the castle. Dine inside for more upscale with an outdoor grill. Schnitzel (always pork) ambience and fare, or enjoy a beer and casual features heavily on the menu. meal in the beer garden: both have excellent 4 Pentahotel Kassel Boutique Hotel € views. (%0561-933 9887; www.pentahotels.com; Bertha-von-Suttner Strasse 15; d from €55; 5 Café Barfuss Cafe € paW) This modern, central hotel has compact, stylish rooms with ambient lighting, (%06421-253 49; www.cafebarfuss.de; arty design elements and free high-speed wi-fi. There’s a bar and restaurant and free Barfüsserstrasse 33; meals €4-15; h10am-1am; late checkout of 3pm on Sundays (subject to availability). v) A local institution, humble Barfuss is a no-fuss, offbeat place with a steady stream of sociable student diners who favour its diverse menu of hearty, healthy plates, including great breakfasts and a variety of vegetarian options. 4 Vila Vita Rosenpark Hotel €€ Wilhelmshöhe 6 (%06421-600 50; www.rosenpark.com; 5 Matterhorn Stübli Swiss €€ Anneliese Pohl Allee 7-17; s/d from €116/126; paiWs) Marburg’s swankiest and (%0561-399 33; www.matterhornstuebli.de; priciest digs are in a lovely spot by the river, a Wilhelmshöher Allee 326; mains €14-22; h5.30- short stroll from the station. If you’re going to 11pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm & 5.30-11pm Sun; v) If splurge, superior double rooms and suites offer you love cheese, fondue, schnitzel, or all three, better value at almost twice the size of classic you’re well advised to hotfoot it to this quaint single rooms. An expansive wellness centre, Swiss restaurant. If you like mushrooms as well, day spa and two restaurants come with the try the Original Züri Geschnätzläts: veal escalopes package. served with mushrooms and crispy rösti. 4 Welcome Hotel Marburg Hotel €€ 4 Kurpark Hotel Bad Boutique Hotel €€ (%06421-9180; www.welcome-hotel-marburg. Wilhelmshöhe de; Pilgrimstein 29; s/d from €93/122; aiW) Just below the Altstadt, this central hotel (%0561-318 90; www.kurparkhotel-kassel.de; has 147 bright, spacious rooms with large windows. Ask for a quieter room at the rear of Wilhelmshöher Allee 336; s/d from €105/137; the building. paWs) In an excellent location near the castle and train station, this stylish hotel offers well-appointed rooms and common areas, a restaurant and terrace, and an indoor pool. 516

Göttingen 7 from €135/180, ste €345-445; pnaW) Palatial Schlosshotel Münchhausen, 15km 5 Zum Szultenburger German €€ outside Hamelin, is a popular spot for weddings and high-end functions. Stylish, contemporary (%0551-431 33; Prinzenstrasse 7; mains €8-20; rooms in the main wing have historic touches, while the suites have tasteful period hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sat) This furnishings. Rooms in the adjacent Tithe barn are entirely modern. Two restaurants, lavish spa traditional German pub does things to the facilities and two golf courses set in 8 hectares of parkland round off this luxurious option. humble schnitzel that will make your mouth water. It’s cosy and cheap, the varied menu is all kinds of delicious, and the staff seem happy to be here, which makes all the difference. Cash only. GERMANY 36 German Fairy Tale Road Bremen c Hamelin a 5 Engel Weincafe Cafe € 5 Klütturm Modern European €€ (%0421-6964 2390; www.engelweincafe- (%05151-962 620; www.kluetturm-restaurant. bremen.de; Ostertorsteinweg 31; dishes €4-13; de; Klütturm 1; mains €12-22) If you fancy h8am-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & Sun; a splurge, take a drive into the hills above Wv) Exuding the nostalgic vibe of a former Hamelin to this classy hotel-restaurant serving pharmacy, this popular hang-out gets a good well-executed modern-European dishes. The crowd no matter where the hands on the clock. setting is wonderful, with an expanisve terrace Come for breakfast, a hot lunch special, crispy and magnificent views. If you find yourself in the Flammkuchen (regional pizza), carpaccio or mood, you can also stay the night. pasta, or just some cheese and a glass of wine. 5 Rattenfängerhaus German €€ 5 Ständige Vertretung German €€ (%05151-3888; www.rattenfaengerhaus. (%0421-320 995; www.staev.de; Böttcherstrasse 3-5; mains €9-20; h11.30am- de; Osterstrasse 28; mains €10-23; h11am- 11pm) An offshoot of Berlin’s best-known restaurant for homesick Rhineland public 10pm) One of Hamelin’s finest ornamental servants, this large, bustling place thrives on its political theme and solid cuisine, washed down Weser Renaissance–style buildings, the with Rhineland wines and beer. Rattenfängerhaus (from 1602) is also home to a favourite, unashamedly tourist-centric restaurant, which has been serving ‘rats’ tails’ flambéed at your table since 1966; don’t fret – 4 Hotel Bölts am Park Hotel €€ it’s all a pork-based ruse. Aside from the novelty (%0421-346 110; www.hotel-boelts.de; dishes, standard schnitzels, herrings, vegie Slevogtstrasse 23; s/d €65/85; pW) This dishes, and ‘rat killer’ herb liquor are also offered. cosy family-run hotel in a leafy neighbourhood 4 Komfort-Hotel Garni has real character, from the wonderfully old- Christinenhof Boutique Hotel €€ fashioned breakfast hall to its well-proportioned (%05151-950 80; www.christinenhof-hameln. doubles. de; Alte Marktstrasse 18; s/d incl breakfast 4 Park Hotel Bremen Hotel €€€ €90/115; pWs) Historic outside, modern in, (%0421-340 80; www.park-hotel-bremen.de; this quaint hotel has some neat touches, such Im Bürgerpark; s/d from €129/149, ste from as a tiny swimming pool in the vaulted cellar, a €635; pniWs) Although it’s exterior is sauna, compact but pleasant and uncluttered certainly dated, this domed lakeside mansion, rooms, and a generous buffet breakfast. surrounded by parkland, impresses through its 4 Schlosshotel sheer extravagance and could be considered Münchhausen Hotel €€€ Bremen’s only true five-star, grand hotel. It (%05154-706 00; www.schlosshotel- offers access to excellent spa, fitness and muenchhausen.com; Schwöbber 9, Aerzen bei beauty facilities, a heated outdoor pool and Hameln; s/d tithe barn from €110/140, castle views over the lake in a ‘spa resort’ ambience. 517

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd NEED TO Climate KNOW Warm to hot summers, mild winters CURRENCY Warm to hot summers, cold winters Mild summers, cold winters Euro (€) Cold climate LANGUAGE # HGOamMbauyr–gSep German # VISAS GOSeBMpea&ryli,OnJcutn, Generally not required for # FGrOanMkafyu–rtSep stays of up to 90 days; some nationalities need a GOFrAeipbru–rOgct GOSMeApup&nri,cOMhcaty, Schengen visa. # # FUEL When to Go Petrol stations are common High Season (Jul & Aug) on main roads and highways, »»Busy roads and long lines at key sights. and in larger towns. »»Vacancies at a premium and higher prices in seaside and Unleaded costs around €1.50 per litre and diesel is mountain resorts. €1.25. »»Festivals celebrate everything from music to wine, and sailing RENTAL CARS to samba. Auto Europe (www. autoeurope.com) Shoulder Season (Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct) »»Smaller crowds and lower prices, except on public holidays. Avis (www.avis.com) »»Blooming flowers in spring; radiant foliage in autumn. Europcar (www.europcar. »»Sunny, temperate weather ideal for outdoor pursuits. com) Low Season (Nov–Mar) »»No queues, but shorter hours at key sights; some may close Hertz (www.hertz.com) for the season. IMPORTANT NUMBERS »»Theatre, concert and opera season in full swing. Europe-wide emergency »»Ski resorts busiest in January and February. covering police, fire and ambulance (%112) 518

Daily Costs The following prices indicate Mobile Phones (Cell the cost of a two-course set Phones) Budget: Less than €100 menu. »»Hostel, camping or private Most European and Australianp € less than €15 hones function; turn off roaming room: €15–30 €€ €15–30 to avoid data charges. Buy a €€€ more than €30 local SIM for cheaper rates. »»Up to €8 per meal or self-cater »»Take advantage of Happy Sleeping Internet Access Hours and free or low-cost Hotels From budget to luxury; Wi-fi (usually free) is available to museums and entertainment breakfast included unless guests in most hotels, B&Bs and indicated. hostels. Also offered by many Midrange: €100–200 Pensiones Rates always cafes, bars, train stations and »»Private apartment or double include breakfast. other public spaces. Hostels In cities and large room: €60–100 towns; private or HI-affiliated. Money Price symbols indicate the cost »»Three-course dinner at nice of a double room with private ATMs widely available in cities bathroom in high season: and towns, rarely in villages. restaurant: €30–40 Cash is king almost everywhere; € less than €80 credit cards are not widely »»Couple of beers in a pub or €€ €80–160 accepted. €€€ more than €160 beer garden: €8 Tipping Top End: More than Restaurant and bar prices €200 include a service charge, but »»Fancy loft apartment or double locals still tip. Taxis expect 10%. in top-end hotel: from €150 Useful Websites »»Sit-down lunch or dinner at Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips, top-rated restaurant: €100 accommodation, traveller forums and more. »»Concert or opera tickets: Germany: The Travel €50–150 Destination (www.germany. travel) German tourist board. Eating Arriving in Germany ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving information for Germany and Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. Frankfurt Airport neighbouring countries. Bistros Light meals to full- blown dinners. S-Bahn Commuter rail lines S8 and S9 from Restaurants Simple eateries Flughafen Regionalbahnhof to Michelin-starred temples. to Frankfurtcentre, 4.30am to 12.30am (€4.55, 15 minutes). Vegetarian Few wholly vegetarian places, limited Taxis €25 to €35; 20 minutes choices on most menus. to centre. 519

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language German is easy for English speakers to pronounce because almost all of its sounds are also found in English. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll have no problems being understood. Note that kh is like the ‘ch’ in ‘Bach’ or the Scottish ‘loch’ (pronounced at the back of the throat), r is also pronounced at the back of the throat (almost like a g, but with some friction), zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘measure’, and ü as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ but with rounded lips.The stressed syllables are indicated with italics. GERMAN BASICS at the traffic bei der Ampel bai dair am·pel lights Hello. Guten Tag. goo·ten tahk left links lingks Goodbye. Auf owf right rechts rekhts Wiedersehen. vee·der·zay·en Yes./No. Ja./Nein. yah/nain ACCOMMODATION Please. Bitte. bi·te Do you have Haben Sie hah·ben zee a ... room? ein ...? ain ... Thank you. Danke. dang·ke You’re Bitte. bi·te double Doppelzimmer do·pel·tsi·mer welcome. single Einzelzimmer ain·tsel·tsi·mer Excuse me. Entschuldigung. ent·shul·di·gung How much Wie viel kostet vee feel kos·tet Sorry. Entschuldigung. ent·shul·di·gung is it per ...? es pro ...? es praw ... Do you speak English? night Nacht nakht Sprechen Sie shpre·khen zee Englisch? (pol) eng·lish person Person per·zawn Sprichst shprikhst Is breakfast included? du Englisch? (inf) doo eng·lish Ist das Frühstück ist das frü·shtük inklusive? in·kloo·zee·ve I don’t understand. Ich verstehe nicht. ikh fer·shtay·e nikht ON THE ROAD DIRECTIONS I’d like to Ich möchte ikh merkh·te Where’s …? hire a ... ein ... mieten. ain ... mee·ten Wo ist …? vaw ist … 4WD Allrad- al·raht· fahrzeug fahr·tsoyk How far is it? Wie weit ist es? vee vait ist es car Auto ow·to Can you show me (on the map)? motorbike Motorrad maw·tor·raht Können Sie es mir ker·nen zee es meer (auf der Karte) zeigen? (owf dair kar·te) tsai·gen Want More? How can I get there? Wie kann ich da vee kan ikh dah For in-depth language information hinkommen? hin·ko·men and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s German Phrasebook. You’ll Turn ... Biegen Sie ... ab. bee·gen zee ... ab find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com. at the corner an der Ecke an dair e·ke 520

windscreen petrol Windschutzscheibe f Benzin m vint·shuts·shai·be ben·tseen battery Batterie f ba·te·ree engine Motor m maw·tor headlight tyre Scheinwerfer m Reifen m shain·ver·fer rai·fen How much Wie viel kostet vee feel kos·tet My car/motorbike has broken down (at ...). is it per ...? es pro ...? es praw ... Ich habe (in ...) eine ikh hah·be (in ...) ai·ne Panne mit meinem pa·ne mit mai·nem day Tag tahk Auto/Motorrad. ow·to/maw·tor·raht week Woche vo·khe I’ve run out of petrol. Does this road go to ...? Ich habe kein ikh hah·be kain Führt diese Straße fürt dee·ze shtrah·se nach ...? nahkh ... Benzin mehr. ben·tseen mair (How long) Can I park here? I have a flat tyre. ikh hah·be ai·ne (Wie lange) Kann ich (vee lang·e) kan ikh Ich habe eine rai·fen·pa·ne hier parken? heer par·ken Reifenpanne. Where’s a petrol station? EMERGENCIES Wo ist eine Tankstelle? vaw ist ai·ne tangk·shte·le Help! I need a mechanic. ikh brow·khe ai·nen Hilfe! hil·fe Ich brauche einen I’m lost. ikh hah·be mikh fer·irt Mechaniker. me·khah·ni·ker Ich habe mich verirrt. roo·fen zee dee po·li·tsai Call the police! Rufen Sie die Polizei! Signs Einfahrt Entrance Ausfahrt Exit Einfahrt No entry Verboten Einbahnstraße One way Parkverbot No Parking Mautstelle Toll 521

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Kölner Dom YOUR LEGS COLOGNE Cologne’s geographical and spiritual heart – and its single-biggest tourist Start/Finish: Kölner Dom draw – is the magnificent Kölner Dom Distance: 2km (Cologne Cathedral; %0211-1794 0200; www. Duration: Three hours koelner-dom.de; tower adult/concession €4/2; h6am-9pm May-Oct, to 7.30pm Nov-Apr, tower Cologne’s history is everywhere, 9am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Mar-Apr & Oct, to 4pm as you’ll see on this walk, which Nov-Feb), with its soaring twin spires, art circles through the heart of the and treasures. Climb the 533 steps up bustling city. You can view Roman its south tower to the base of the steeple or medieval ruins, and you’ll always that dwarfed all European buildings until be near somewhere to pause for Eiffel built a certain tower in Paris. The refreshments. underground Domforum visitor centre is a good source of info and tickets. The Walk » There are large parking facilities around the Dom and the neighbouring Hauptbahnhof (just follow the signs). Then, after Kölner Dom, walk south across the Roncalliplatz to Am Hof, turn east then go south again on Bechergasse to the large, open Rathausplatz. Altes Rathaus Dating to the 15th century and much restored, the old city hall (Rathausplatz; h8am-4pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 6pm Tue) has fine bells that ring daily at noon and 5pm. The Gothic tower is festooned with statues of old city notables. The Walk » Walk to the west side of the Rathaus. Archäologische Zone Cologne used the construction of the U- Bahn line to also build this grand Future Jüdisches Museum (Archaeological Zone/ Jewish Museum; %0221-2213 3422; Kleine Buden- gasse 2; adult/concession €3.50/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) under the Rathausplatz. At the deepest level is the Praetorium, with relics of a Roman governor’s palace. One level up are relics from the Middle Ages Jewish community. The Walk » Cross the Marsplatz on the south side of the square to the museum. Take this walk on Trips Wallraf-Richartz-Museum y A famous collection of European paint- ings from the 13th to the 19th centuries, 522 the Wallraf-Richartz-Museum (%0221-2212 1119; www.wallraf.museum; Obenmarspforten; adult/concession €8/4.50; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu) occupies a postmodern

Kölnisches Appelhofplatz Komödienstr J%00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Rw00000000000000000000Ao00000000000nm0000000000000000000000000000000c#aH0000000000000000000000000000000lloKi00000000000000000000p00000000000fDöla0000000000000000000000000000000oltnmz0000000000000000000000000000000e/r0000000000000000H000000000000000Da0000000000000000000000000000000uop0000000000000000000000000000000mt#§b0000000000000000000000000000000aGh000000000000r0000000000000000000nohs0000000000000000000000000000000soHef0000000000000000000000000000000eNi000000000000000000000000e0000000nuPBr000000000000000000000000g0000000ilcöaah000000000t000l00000s00000000000000lzs--e0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000w Burgmauer Stadtmuseum §# Zeughaus FettenUhnteenrnen HöffKnaerrd-iPnlaalt-z w Burgmauer # Steinweg Martinstr Elisenstr NS Dokumentationszentrum # Schwalbengasse ppel lho fplatz w Drus u sgasse An der A Rechtschule Appelhofplatz #§ gasse Elstergasse Hohe Str Breite Str Morser Untere Goldschmied ALTSTADT Breite Str Minoritenstr BudGeronsgsaesse Mühlengasse Glockengasse Kolumba Hämergasse Kolumbastr #Ludwigstr Marspfortgasse Altes Alter Markt 000000000000000000000000000000000O00000000000ff000000000e00n00000000000ba00000000000ch00000000000platzKrebsgasse Brückenstr Rathaus Future # Tunisstr #§ Lintgasse Jüdisches # Museum Rathausplatz Herzogstr Obenmarspforten # Brüderstr Gr Sandkaul Wallraf-Richartz-Museum Quatermarkt e# 0 200 m In der Höhle 0 0.1 miles Schildergasse w cube designed by OM Ungers. Works are w Centre (%0221-2212 6332; www.museenkoeln. presented chronologically, with the oldest de; Appellhofplatz 23-25; adult/concession on the 1st floor where stand-outs include €4.50/2; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & examples from the Cologne School, known Sun). In the basement of this otherwise for its distinctive use of colour. mundane-looking building was the local Gestapo prison where scores of people The Walk » Go west past the shops on were interrogated, tortured and killed. Obenmarspforten for four streets, then turn north The Walk » It’s just a short jaunt north again on Kolumbastrasse. along low-key Dumont-Strasse. Kolumba Kölnisches Stadtmuseum Art, history, architecture and spirituality form a harmonious tapestry in this spec- The Kölnisches Stadtmuseum (Cologne City tacular collection of religious treasures Museum; %0221-2212 2398; www.museenkoeln. of the Archdiocese of Cologne. Called de; Zeughausstrasse 1-3; adult/concession €5/3; Kolumba (%0221-933 1930; www.kolumba.de; h10am-8pm Tue, to 5pm Wed-Sun), in the for- Kolumbastrasse 4; adult/child €5/free; hnoon- mer medieval armoury, explores all facets 5pm Wed-Mon), the building encases the of Cologne history. There are exhibits on ruins of the late-Gothic church of St Carnival, Kölsch (the local beer), eau de Kolumba and layers of foundations going cologne and other things that make the back to Roman times. Don’t miss the city unique. A model recreates the city of 12th-century carved ivory crucifix. 1571; it’s huge yet minutely detailed. The Walk » Walk west on commercial Breite The Walk » Return to the Dom along Strasse, then turn north on Dumont-Strasse. Komödienstrasse, with the cathedral towers looming ever closer. Stop off for a much-deserved NS Dokumentationszentrum refreshment at Café Reichard, facing the Dom. Cologne’s Third Reich history is poignant- 523 ly documented in the NS Documentation

524

Switzerland A PLACE OF HEART-STOPPING NATURAL BEAUTY AND HEAD-SPINNING EFFICIENCY, Switzerland lies in the centre of Europe yet exhibits a unique blend of cultures. Dazzling outdoor scenery, such as the ever- admired Alps, pristine lakes, lush meadows and chocolate-box chalets, combines with local traditions, cosmopolitan cities and smooth infrastructure. In short, Switzerland makes it easy for you to dive deep into its heart: distances are manageable and variety is within easy reach. You can be perusing a farmers market for picnic provisions in the morning, then feasting on them on a mountaintop come lunchtime. At nightfall, try gazing at stars in the night sky from cosy digs or revelling in the cultural offerings of one of Switzerland’s urbane cities. Lucerne View of the Old Town BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Parc Naturel \\# Mullheim GERMANY Régional des Lörrach Ballons des Vosges Mulhouse Todtmoos Schaffhausen #\\ \\# /·E60 ·/A35 \\# \\# Waldshut #\\ Switzerland Montbeliard Feldbach #^ ·/A3 Baden #\\ \\# \\# Basel #\\ Liestal Aarau #] /·18 ·/#\\ Delémont Zürich \\# A1 \\#Olten ·/ ·/ ·/ /·E23 Maiche Tramelan 16 \\# Moutier A4 #\\ \\# Lang\\#enthal #\\ Menziken FRANCE E35 \\# Orn\\#ans La Chaux-de-Fonds \\# Biel-Bienne FGLucerne 38 Zug #\\ Ligerz #\\ Burgdorf #\\ /·Morteau Bielersee E27 #\\ Langnau im #] Brunnen #\\ Neuchâtel Stans #\\ ]# #\\ E35 Bern 37 Altdorf #\\ Fôret de NeLuacchdâetel Murtensee 38 /·Emmental la Joux \\# Sarnen Murten \\# #\\ /· FG\\# 10 ·/ FG#\\ Poligny Pontarlier 5 N]#yGo1ne#\\n3eM8voaV\\#LragAall1Teeluoshs#\\YrsG-\\#ovbBaLeneLennaaroe9keidnsnnve#]oe-saG#\\n\\#eLt\\#savauV#\\xevA#\\eB1y\\#2uMlAlAoe9i\\#ng9tl1#\\er1e\\#GC#\\urCh\\#xuFâhyrtiaèbeSrroameiouus#\\enr-dgyK1'Sa8Œ9inedxrSre#\\eprsietez\\#gT#\\#\\huSn(cV2hBRA9i3ise9l7pt7t0#\\Bht\\#mmorInir)eentnre\\##\\azBrl\\#l\\#Gpraigrkien#\\ndFDeieol1VEws9manc\\#arghol#\\AzdeOdonlobbd1seee1\\#srrrogwmlaaCaldtetv#\\i\\#o \\# ·/Champagnole /· /· ·/ ·/Les Rousses /·Parc Naturel \\# /·Régional du GFHaut-Jura ·/ ·//· ·/GFGex \\# Bonneville #\\ Martigny #\\ Falmenta \\# #\\ ·/A410 \\# /·E27 #\\ Täsch Vogogna NaPzaiorcnoale Zermatt \\# \\# Hauteville #\\ Annecy ·/E25 Lompnes Umilly d'ALnancecy Macu#\\gnaga Val Grande \\# #^ #\\ Chamonix Verbania ! | The Swiss Alps 7 Days } Geneva to Zürich 7 Days The greatest of the great outdoors: Mountains, pastures, lakes and perfect peaks, gorgeous glaciers, small-town charm, book-ended by verdant valleys. (p529) Switzerland’s biggest cities. (p541) 526

/·33 /·31 Birnau e# 0 50 km 0 25 miles #\\ DON'T Stein am MISS \\# Rhein #\\Konstanz The Matterhorn #\\ \\# Symbol of Switzerland, Lindau this magical mountain ·/A7KrReoumzlainngsehnorn #\\ Lake demands to be #\\ photographed. See it for Constance #^ Bregenz Winterthur Wil |yourself on Trip \\# Züri-West /·#\\ A1 \\#St Gallen \\# Switzerland dispenses with its staid reputation Dubendorf Dornbirn in this hip Zürich neighbourhood full of /·#\\ 16 great bars, clubs, cafes Appenz#\\ell and restaurants. Explore Rapperswil- 0¸B171 Jona /·13 \\# Feldkirch it on Trip } Lande\\#\\#ck ·/\\# AUSTRIA A3 Vaduz #\\ SWITZERLAND LIECHSTENSTEIN Pfunds \\# Schwanden #\\ Bad Ragaz \\##\\ Maienfeld Partenen Landquart #\\ 28 \\# /· ·/#\\ 17 Flims-Laax #\\ Chur Klosters #\\ Samnaun #\\ \\# Guarda #\\ Ilanz #\\ \\# Davos \\# GF ·/ ·/ ·/ ·/\\# 19 Arosa Zernez \\# #\\ 37 #\\ Vals A13 Müstair #\\ Disentis/ \\# #\\ Mustér 28 Zillis Zuoz #\\ 27 Rodi-Fiesso Parco Nazionale \\#Livigno dello Stelvio \\# #\\#\\St Moritz #\\ Bormio \\# Lavorgo Malog#\\gia Silvaplana \\# Biasca #\\ \\# Sondalo Chiavenna Locarno \\# Bianzone #\\ #\\ Edolo #\\ 13/· ¸0#\\ SS38 Parco Bellinzona #\\ \\# Parco Regionale dell'Adamello Lago di degli Orobie ITALY Maggiore Colico Morbegno Valtellinesi \\# \\# Breno \\# Lugano \\# Vezio Parco Regionale Bergamasche Schilpario Luino \\# \\# Lenna 0¸ 0¸^# SS36 Lovere SS42 \\# Varese \\# Lecco Bagolino\\# #\\ BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK © Interlaken Lake Brienz 527

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ANGELO CAVALLI / GETTY IMAGES © 37The Swiss Alps From Arosa to Zermatt, this zigzagging trip is the A to Z of Switzerland’s astounding Alpine scenery, with majestic peaks, formidable panoramas, cable-car rides and local charm. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 77 km 7 DAYS Vals 612 KM / 382 MILES 612 km A modern architectural Zermatt jewel embellishes this GREAT FOR… Switzerland's Alpine remote spa town heart beats JG strongest here BEST TIME TO GO Grindelwald # lL# Arosa # Andermatt This trip can be done #2 year-round, although R Schilthorn (2970m) certain mountain passes may be closed ##11 to vehicular traffic. mK##12 I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Aletsch Glacier A mesmerising marvel, The magical viewed from on-high Matterhorn is the 538 km ultimate mountain photo op. Zermatt View of the Matterhorn K BEST FOR OUTDOORS Whatever the season, the Alps offer activities galore. 529

37 The Swiss Alps A natural barrier, the Alps are both a blessing and a burden when it comes to tripping around Switzerland. The soul-stirring views are stupendous, but you have to get over, around them or go through them to reach the next one. Starting in Graubünden’s Arosa and finishing in Valais’ Zermatt, this trip visits five cantons via hairpin bends, valley highways, tunnels, passes and cable cars to bring you the best. e# 0 30 km Lake Lucerne \\# Brunnen \\# Schwanden 0 15 miles Stans#\\ ·/E35 #\\ /·10 Langnau im Emmental Sarnen R #\\ Stanserhorn GF GF /·38 38 Sarnersee \\# Altdorf (1898m) /·A6 /· #4 374 /·E35 #\\5 ·/19 Thun Brienz Giessbachfälle \\# Engelberg #\\ 11 # ·/Thunersee Brienzersee 6 ##\\3 Disentis/ /·Spiez #\\ A8 #\\ Interlaken Mustér #\\ Meiringen ##\\2 GF38 Andermatt SWITZERLAND ##\\7 Grindelwald Vals # # #R9 8\\##\\ Lauterbrunnen #\\4 Schilthorn #\\ Mürren R #\\ Finsteraarhorn (4274m) \\# Airolo # #1#\\0 Kandersteg 11 Rodi-Fiesso#\\ #\\ Faido Oberwald \\# Lavorgo Aletsch #\\ Bettmeralp /·A2 Leukerbad Glacier \\# Fiesch #\\ Biasca #\\ #\\ Sonogno ·/Betten #\\ 19 Bignasco \\# ·/ Brig \\# Sierre ITALY \\# Cevio \\# A9 \\# Visp \\# Vogorno Cimalmotto Varzo #\\ #\\ Verdasio Bellinzona #\\ ¸0SS337 #\\ #\\ Locarno #\\ ¸0\\# Domodossola ·/A9 \\# 0¸SS33 Falmenta \\# SS34 Täsch #\\ Saas-Fee Porlezza \\# Km#1#\\2 Zermatt Parco Nazionale \\# Lugano #\\ #\\ Vogogna #\\ Val Grande \\# Menaggio \\# Macugnaga Maccagno RR GF2 MLaakgegiore ^# #\\

1 Arosa by postal buses. Once full of sleepy hamlets and SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps here, you may want to thundering waterfalls. Framed by the peaks revel in the beauty of the Vals stretches 2km along of Weisshorn, Hörnli Mario Botta–designed its glittering stream. The and moraine-streaked Tschuggen Bergoase Spa secret of this chocolate- Schiesshorn, Arosa is a (http://en.tschuggen.ch/spa; box village and its sooth- great Alpine all-rounder: Tschuggen Grand Hotel; non- ing waters is out since perfect for downhill and guest morning/evening pass Basel-born architect Peter cross-country skiing in Sfr65, massage from Sfr80; Zumthor worked architec- winter, hiking and down- h7am-9pm), an architec- tural magic to transform hill biking in summer, tural statement built at Therme Vals (%081 926 89 and heaps of activities the foot of the mountains. 61; www.therme-vals.ch; adult/ for families year-round. The recurring leaf-shaped child Sfr80/52, with Vals guest Although only 30km motifs throughout the card Sfr45/30; h11am-8pm) southeast of Chur (Swit- structures look par- into a temple of cutting- zerland’s oldest city), ticularly striking when edge cool. getting here involves illuminated at night. a series of 365 hairpin Using 60,000 slabs of bends so challenging that 5 p539 local quartzite, Zumthor Arosa cannot be reached created one of the The Drive » The trip from country’s most enchant- #\\ ing thermal spas. Aside Arosa to Vals takes 79km and from heated indoor and \\# Landquart 1¾ hours. First, head back outdoor pools, this grey- towards Chur, then take Rte 19 stone labyrinth hides all ·/E43 to Ilanz, from where you drive sorts of watery nooks and a delightful road that passes crannies, cleverly lit and Flims- /·\\# Chur through Uors and St Martin full of cavernous atmos- Laax 28 before arriving at Vals (1252m). phere. You can drift away \\# About 2km short of the village, in the bath-warm Feuer- \\# Ilanz you emerge into Alpine pastures, bad (42°C) and perfumed liberally scattered with chalets Blütenbad, sweat it out Ll·/3 and shepherds’ huts. in the steam room and #Arosa \\#1 cool down in the teeth- 2 Vals chattering Eisbad. ·/A13 Shadowing the course 4 p539 \\# Zillis of the babbling Glogn (Glenner) stream south, The Drive » Take the road the luxuriantly green Valsertal (Vals Valley) is back to Ilanz, then continue on Silvaplana \\# Maloggia LINK \\# YOUR TRIP Chiavenna #\\ ITALY #\\ San } Geneva to Zürich 2 The Graceful Martino Arosa is a two-hour Italian Lakes ¸0SS36 drive southeast (147km) on the A3 from Zürich, the end A scenic two-hour drive /·S38 point of this bucolic ramble (143km) across the Simplon between Switzerland’s Pass into Italy gets you to \\# Gravedona \\# biggest cities. Stresa in the glorious Lake Maggiore region. Morbegno Lake Parco 531 Como Regionale Bergamasche \\# #\\ Vezio #\\ Pasturo #\\ Lenna GF2 #\\

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps Rte 19 until you reach Disentis/ LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Mustér (50km, 55 minutes). ZUMDORF 3 Disentis Abbey If the grand scale of this trip seems overwhelming, the antidote surely lies in a quick detour to Disentis/Mustér’s Switzerland’s smallest village, Zumdorf (Uri canton), Benedictine monastery, little more than a cluster of small buildings on the Kloster Disentis (www. Furkastrasse and a population that can be counted kloster-disentis.ch; Via Claustra on one hand. Despite its diminutive size, it has a 1, Disentis/Mustér; museum place to eat, Restaurant Zum Dörfli (%041 887 adult/child Sfr7/3; hmuseum 01 32; www.zumdoerfli.ch; Furkastrasse; mains Sfr26-40), 2-5pm Tue, Thu & Sat Jun- specialising in Swiss dishes (especially rösti) and Oct), which rises like a venison (when in season). Find it 6km southwest of vision above the town, Andermatt’s centre. has a lavishly stuccoed baroque church attached. TRIP HIGHLIGHT A walk around and A monastery has stood along Gotthardstrasse re- here since the 8th century, 4 Andermatt veals textbook dark-wood but the present immense central Swiss architecture, complex dates from the Blessed with austere often weighed down with 18th century. Left of the mountain appeal, either geraniums or snow. church entrance is a door Andermatt (Uri canton) to the Klostermuseum, contrasts low-key village Skiers in the know flock crammed with memora- charm (despite a recent to 2963m Gemsstock (www. bilia. Head left upstairs five-star development) skiarena.ch; cable car one-way/ to the Marienkirche, a with big wilderness. Once return Sfr36/50) mountain, chapel with Romanesque an important staging- reached by the Gemsstock- origins filled with ex-voto post on the north–south bahn cable car (undergoing images from people in St Gotthard route, it’s a major overhaul at the need of (or giving thanks now bypassed by the time of research), for the for) a miraculous inter- tunnel, but remains a snow-sure winter slopes. vention from the Virgin major crossroads near Mary. If you’re peckish, four major Alpine passes 4 p539 a handy (and very good- (Susten, Oberalp, St Got- The Drive » From Andermatt value) on-site cafe/ thard and Furka), making takeaway has soups, sal- it a terrific base for hiking to Engelberg, take Rte 2 to ads and specialities. and cycling. The tourist Göschenen, then get on the A2/ office distributes free E35 and follow the signs for The Drive » Disentis is booklets outlining these Lucerne. The road will skirt the opportunities. bottom of Lake Uri for some an exhilarating (40 minutes, lovely water views. Continue on 32km) drive along Rte 19 and One popular hike leads this road until you take exit 33 the twisting Oberalp Pass from the Oberalp Pass to (Stans-Süd), then follow Rte 374 (2044m), which connects sparkly Lai da Tuma, the all the way to Engelberg (one Graubünden and Uri cantons. source of the Rhine; the hour, 77km in total). In winter, the Oberalp Pass is 11km round trip takes closed to cars, but a car train three to four hours, with 5 Engelberg connects Sedrun on Rte 19 500m elevation gain. and Andermatt (three services Wonderful Engelberg (lit- daily in winter, two in spring). erally ‘Angel Mountain’), Reservations are essential. Call backed by the glacial %027 927 77 40 or visit www. matterhorngotthardbahn.ch. 532

bulk of Mt Titlis (www.titlis. fins ahead, before you Brunni cable car (www. SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps ch) – central Switzerland’s step out onto Titlis sta- brunni.ch; cable car one-way/ tallest mountain – and tion’s terrace (3020m), return Sfr18/30, incl chairlift frosted peaks, which with a panorama that one-way/return Sfr26/42) goes feature in many a Bol- stretches to Eiger, Mönch up to Ristis at 1600m, lywood production, is and Jungfrau in the where a chairlift takes divine. After visiting the Bernese Oberland. For you to the Swiss Alpine 12th-century Benedictine even more thrilling views, Club’s refurbished Brunni step onto the adjacent Hütte. From here you can Engelberg Monastery Cliff Walk (www.titlis.ch/en/ watch a magnificent sun- (Kloster Engelberg; %041 639 glacier/cliff-walk; h9.15am- set before spending the 61 19; www.kloster-engelberg. night, should you wish. ch; church admission free, tours 4.45pm) – opened in 2012, adult/child Sfr8/free; h1hr this 100m-long, 1m-wide, 4 p539 tour 10am & 4pm Wed-Sat), get cable-supported swinging closer to the heavens via walkway is Europe’s high- The Drive » As Engelberg the world’s first revolv- est suspension bridge. ing cable car (www.titlis. is a ‘dead end’ retrace your ch/en/tickets/cable-car-ride; There are some 360km route back to the A2, heading adult/child return Sfr89/44.50; of marked hiking trails west, before turning onto the h8.30am-5pm). The cable in and around Engelberg. A8 (direction Interlaken), and car pirouettes over the For gentle ambles and continuing alongside bright-blue dazzling Titlis Glacier, gorgeous scenery, head Brienzersee to Giessbachfälle peaks rising like shark for Brunni on the oppo- (one hour and 10 minutes, 71km). site side of the valley. The AROUND GRINDELWALD: FIRST From Grindelwald, a cable car zooms up to First, the trailhead for 100km of paths, half of which stay open in winter. From here, you can trudge up to Faulhorn (2681m; 2½ hours), even in winter, via the cobalt Bachalpsee (Lake Bachalp). As you march along the ridge, the unfolding views of the Jungfrau massif are entrancing. Stop for lunch and 360-degree views at Faulhorn. From here, you might like to continue on to Schynige Platte (another three hours) and return by train. Other great walks head to Schwarzhorn (three hours), Grosse Scheidegg (1½ hours), Unterer Gletscher (1½ hours) and Grindelwald itself (2½ hours). First has 60km of well-groomed pistes, which are mostly wide, meandering reds suited to intermediates. The south-facing slopes make for interesting skiing through meadows and forests. Freestylers should check out the kickers and rails at Bärgelegg or have a go on the superpipe at Schreckfeld station. Faulhorn happens to be the starting point for Europe’s longest toboggan run, accessible only on foot. Bring a sled to bump and glide 15km over icy pastures and through glittering woodlands all the way back down to Grindelwald via Bussalp. Nicknamed ‘Big Pintenfritz’, the track lasts around 1½ hours, depending on how fast you slide. Year-round, you can get your pulse racing on the First Flyer, a staggeringly fast zip-line from First to Schreckfeld. The mountains are but a blur as, secure in your harness, you pick up speeds of around 84km/h. Opened in 2015, the First Cliff Walk is a summit trail with a 40m-long suspen- sion bridge, climbing stairs and an observation deck, with suitably impressive views of the local landscape and the jaw-dropping mountains. 533

DENNIS STRATMANN / GETTY IMAGES © CHRISTIAN KOBER / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP SALLY O’BRIEN, AUTHOR Even though I now call Switzerland home, the Alpine scenery still has an other-worldly effect on me. The abundance of snow-capped peaks, mountains with fairy-tale names that ‘pop up’ at numerous vantage points, time-defying glaciers, gravity- defying railways. And then there’s the moment you catch sight of the Matterhorn… Top: Mountain biking around Andermatt Left: Climbers on the Matterhorn Right: Aletsch Glacier

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps6 Giessbachfälle HUBER PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © Illuminating the fir for- ests like a spotlight in the dark, the misty Giess- bachfälle (Giessbach Falls) plummet 500m over 14 rocky ridges. Europe’s oldest funicular, dating to 1879, creaks up from the boat station (one-way/return Sfr5/10), but it’s only a 15-minute walk up to the most strik- ing section of the falls. The Drive » Get back onto the A8 and follow the road along the Brienzersee until exit 25 (Wilderswil/Grindelwald), then continue as the road winds its way through rural countryside up to Grindelwald (39km, 45 minutes). 7 Grindelwald Grindelwald’s sublime natural assets are film- set stuff: the chiselled features of the north face of Eiger, the glinting tongues of Oberer and Unterer Glaciers and the crown-like peak of Wetterhorn. Skiers and hikers cottoned onto its charms in the late 19th century, which makes it one of Switzerland’s oldest resorts. And it has lost none of its appeal, with geranium-studded Alpine chalets and ver- dant pastures aplenty. Turbulent waters carve a path through the crag- gy glacier gorge known as Gletscherschlucht (Glacier Gorge; adult/child Sfr7/3.50; h10am-5pm 535

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps May-Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug), (Staubbach Falls; h8am-8pm child Stechelberg–Schilthorn a 30-minute walk south Jun-Oct) inspired both return Sfr102/51). of the centre. A footpath Goethe and Lord Byron weaves through tunnels to pen poems to their 9 Schilthorn hacked into cliffs veined ethereal beauty. Today the with pink and green postcard-perfect village, There’s a tremendous marble. It’s justifiably a nestled deep in the valley 360-degree, 200-peak popular spot for canyon of 72 waterfalls, including panorama from the and bungee-jumping the Trümmelbachfälle 2970m Schilthorn (www. expeditions. (Trümmelbach Falls; www. schilthorn.ch), best appreci- truemmelbachfaelle.ch; adult/ ated from the Skyline Grindelwald is out- child Sfr11/4; h9am-5pm), viewing platform or Piz standing hiking territory, attracts a less highfalutin Gloria revolving res- veined with trails that crowd. taurant. On a clear day, command arresting you can see from Titlis views to massive north Hikes heading up into around to Mont Blanc, faces, crevasse-filled the mountains from the and across to the German glaciers and snow-capped waterfall-laced valley Black Forest. peaks. High-altitude include a 2½-hour uphill walks can be reached by trudge to car-free Mürren Some visitors seem taking cable cars from and a more gentle 1¾- more preoccupied with the village. hour walk to Stechelberg. practising their delivery In winter, you can glide of the line, ‘The name’s 5 4 p539 past frozen waterfalls Bond, James Bond’, be- The Drive » From on a well-prepared 12km cause a few scenes from cross-country trail. On Her Majesty’s Secret Grindelwald, follow the signs to Service were shot here Lauterbrunnen, which is 20km The Drive » From in 1968–69. The Bond (15 minutes) away by car. World 007 interactive Lauterbrunnen, head to exhibition gives you the 8 Lauterbrunnen Stechelberg (10 minutes, 6km), chance to pose for photos where you’ll leave the car (paid secret-agent style and Laid-back Lauterbrun- parking available) and take the nen’s wispy Staubbachfall cable car to Schiltorn (adult/ LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: WINE TIME The canton of Valais, which features so much of Switzerland’s stunning Alpine scenery, is also the largest and best producer of wine in the country, so sampling it in situ at the end of a day’s driving is a great idea. Drenched in extra sunshine and light from above the southern Alps, much of the land north of the Rhône River in western Valais is planted with vines. Unique to the Valais are the bisses (narrow irrigation channels) that traverse the vineyards. Dryish white Fendant, the perfect accompaniment to fondue and raclette, and best served crisp cold, is the region’s best-known wine, accounting for two-thirds of Valais wine production. Dôle, made from Pinot noir and Gamay grapes, is the principal red blend and is full bodied, with a firm fruit flavour. When ordering wine in a wine bar or restaurant, use the uniquely Swiss approach of deci (decilitre – ie a 10th of a litre) multiples. Or just order a bottle… 536

THE HIGH LIFE SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps Charming as Zermatt is, heading out of town and up to the mountains is a rush like no other. Europe’s highest cogwheel railway, the Gornergratbahn (www.gornergrat.ch; Bahnhofplatz 7; one-way adult/child Sfr42/21; h7am-9.50pm), has climbed through picture- postcard scenery to Gornergrat (3089m) – a 30-minute journey – since 1898. Sit on the right-hand side to gawp at the Matterhorn. Tickets allow you to get on and off en route; there are restaurants at Riffelalp (2211m) and Riffelberg (2582m). In summer an extra train runs once a week at sunrise and sunset – the most spectacular trips of all. Views from Zermatt’s cable cars are all remarkable, but the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (www.matterhornparadise.ch; adult/child Sfr99/49.50; h8.30am-4.20pm) is the icing on the cake. Ride Europe’s highest-altitude cable car to 3883m and marvel at 14 glaciers and 38 mountain peaks over 4000m from the Panoramic Platform (only open in good weather). Don’t miss the Glacier Palace, an ice palace complete with glittering ice sculptures and an ice slide to swoosh down bum first. End with some exhilarating snow tubing outside in the snowy surrounds. relive movie moments in sublime natural backdrop chalets and onion-domed a helicopter and bobsled. to the rustic village of churches (47km). dark-timber chalets. The Drive » When you TRIP HIGHLIGHT In winter, there are descend back to Stechelberg, more than 50km of b Aletsch Glacier head to Kandersteg via the road cross-country ski trails, down to Interlaken. Get on the including the iced-over The Aletsch Glacier is a A8/Rte 11, then take exit 19 Oeschinensee. The seemingly never-ending, (direction Spiez/Kandersteg/ limited 15km of downhill 23km-long swirl of ice Adelboden). The 60km trip skiing is suited to begin- with deep crevasses that takes one hour. ners. Kandersteg’s frozen slices past thundering waterfalls attract ice falls, jagged spires of rock a Kandersteg climbers and the village and pine forest. It stretch- hosts the spectacular es from Jungfrau in the Turn up in Kandersteg annual Ice Climbing Bernese Oberland to a wearing anything but Festival (hJan). plateau above the Rhône muddy boots and you’ll and is, justly so, a Unesco attract a few odd looks. The Drive » From Kandersteg, World Heritage site. Hiking is this town’s raison d’être, with take the BLS Lötschberg Picture-postcard 550km of surrounding Tunnel (www.bls.ch/e/ riverside Fiesch on the trails. An amphitheatre autoverlad/tickets-goppenstein. valley floor is the best of spiky peaks studded php), which connects with place to access it. From with glaciers and jewel- Goppenstein (in Valais) at the village, ride the coloured lakes such as regular intervals daily. The trip cable car (www.eggishorn. Blausee (www.blausee.ch; takes 15 minutes and costs ch; adult/child 6-16yr return adult/child Sfr7/3; h9am-5pm) from Sfr25 per car if booked from Fiesch Sfr57/28.50) up to and Oeschinensee (www. online. From Goppenstein, head Fiescheralp and continue oeschinensee.ch; cable-car one- east from Rte 9. Once past up to Eggishorn (2927m). way/return Sfr18/26; hcable Brig, the deep valley narrows Streaming down in a car 8am-6pm) creates a and the landscape switches to broad curve around the rugged wilderness, with a string of bucolic villages of timber 537

SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps Aletschhorn (4195m), the pretty and pink to dark of St Mauritius Church glacier is just like a frozen and mysterious. Since the is sobering. Numerous six-lane superhighway. mid-19th century, Zer- gravestones tell of un- In the distance to the matt has starred among timely deaths on Monte north rise the glisten- Switzerland’s glitziest re- Rosa, the Matterhorn ing summits of Jungfrau sorts. Today skiers cruise and Breithorn. In July (4158m), Mönch (4107m), along well-kept pistes, 2015 a memorial to ‘the Eiger (3970m) and spellbound by the scen- unknown climber’ was Finsteraarhorn (4274m). ery, while style-conscious unveiled to mark the To the southwest of the darlings flash designer 150th anniversary of the cable-car exit, you can threads in the town’s Matterhorn’s first ascent. spy Mont Blanc and the swish lounge bars. Matterhorn. The Matterhorn Meander main-strip Museum (%027 967 41 00; 4 p539 Bahnhofstrasse with its www.matterhornmuseum.ch; The Drive » It takes one hour boutiques and stream Kirchplatz; adult/child Sfr10/5; of horse-drawn sleds or h11am-6pm Jul-Sep & mid- (56km) to get from Fiesch to carriages and electric Dec–Apr, 3-6pm Oct–mid-Dec) Täsch via Rte 19 to Visp, then taxis, then head towards provides a fascinating the winding rural road to Täsch the noisy Vispa river insight into Valaisian itself. You’ll park the car here along Hinterdorfstrasse. village life, the dawn of before boarding the train to This old-world street is tourism in Zermatt and car-free Zermatt. crammed with arche- the lives the Matterhorn typal Valaisian timber has claimed. Short films TRIP HIGHLIGHT granaries propped up portray the first success- on stone discs and stilts ful ascent of the Mat- c Zermatt to keep out pesky rats; terhorn on 14 July 1865, look for the fountain led by Edward Whymper, You can almost sense commemorating Ulrich a feat marred by tragedy the anticipation on Inderbinen (1900–2004), on the descent when four the train from Täsch. a Zermatt-born moun- team members crashed to Then, as you arrive in taineer who climbed the their deaths in a 1200m car-free Zermatt, the Matterhorn 370 times, fall down the North Wall. pop-up-book effect of the the last time at age 90. The infamous rope that one-of-a-kind Matterhorn broke is on display. (4478m) works its magic. A walk in Zermatt’s Like a shark’s fin it rises Mountaineers’ Cemetery 5 4 p539 above the town, with (Kirchstrasse) in the garden moods that swing from 538

Eating & Sleeping Arosa 1 Grindelwald 7 5 Burestübli Swiss €€ 5 C & M Swiss €€ (%081 377 18 38; Hotel Arlenwald, Prätschli; (%033 853 07 10; Almisgässli 1; snacks Sfr5-9, mains Sfr25-42; h8am-midnight) This woodsy mains Sfr29-49; h8.30am-11pm Wed-Mon) Just chalet has magical above-the-treetop views. as appetising as the seasonally inspired dishes Come winter, pots of gooey fondue and mugs of are the stupendous views to Unterer Gletscher SWITZERLAND 37 The Swiss Alps glühwein fuel floodlit dashes through the snow. from this gallery-style cafe’s sunny terrace. Vals 2 4 Gletschergarten Historic Hotel €€ 4 Hotel Therme Design Hotel €€€ (%033 853 17 21; www.hotel-gletschergarten.ch; Obere Gletscherstrasse 1; s Sfr130-170, d Sfr230- (%081 926 80 80; www.therme-vals.ch; Vals; s 300; pW) The sweet Breitenstein family make you feel at home in their timber heirloom-filled Sfr290-390, d Sfr390-590; pW) Peter Zumthor chalet. Rooms have balconies facing Unterer Gletscher and Wetterhorn. revamped many rooms at this famous spa hotel, with others given a Japanese touch (thanks to Tadao Ando and Kengo Kuma). The restaurants Aletsch Glacier b emphasise local and organic ingredients. 4 Fiesch Youth Hostel Hostel € Andermatt 4 (www.youthhostel.ch/en/hostels/fiesch; Sport Ferien Resort; dm with shared bathroom per 4 River House person from Sfr35, d with private bathroom per Boutique Hotel Design Hotel €€ person Sfr50) This 1970s bunker-like complex (%041 887 00 25; www.theriverhouse.ch; plays host to 1001 activities and has spotless Gotthardstrasse 58; s Sfr150-210, d Sfr200-280; rooms (many recently updated). pW) At this stylish eco-hotel in a 250-year- Zermatt c old building, the owners have created unique and beautiful rooms, some with river views. 5 Snowboat International € The excellent on-site restaurant features local produce and Swiss wines. (%027 967 43 33; www.snowboat.ch; Vispastrasse 20; mains Sfr19-26; hnoon- Engelberg 5 midnight) This is a hybrid eating-drinking, riverside address with yellow deckchairs on its 4 Ski Lodge Engelberg Hotel €€ rooftop terrace. Head here for barbecue-sizzled (%041 637 35 00; www.skilodgeengelberg.com; burgers, creative salads and great cocktails. Erlenweg 36; s/d/tr/q Sfr150/270/360/450; 4 Suitenhotel Boutique Hotel €€ pW) Run by sociable Swedish pro skiers, Zurbriggen this delightful lodge fuses art-nouveau flair (%027 966 38 38; www.zurbriggen.ch; with 21st-century comfort. Après-ski activities Schluhmattstrasse 68; high season d/ste/apt from include gazing at snowy peaks from an outdoor Sfr290/420/490) Owned by Swiss Alpine skiing spa and chef Jonas’ stellar New Nordic cuisine. legend Pirmin Zurbriggen, this modern hotel has a handy position near the cable-car station for Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Suites have south- facing balconies and Matterhorn views, plus there’s a wellness area. 539

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ANDY CHRISTIANI / GETTY IMAGES © 38Geneva to Zürich Connect the dots between Switzerland’s two biggest cities on a trip that takes you through its enigmatic heartland, historic cities, spine-tingling ascents and a world-famous mountain trio. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS 481KM / 300 MILES 0 km 481 km Geneva Zürich GREAT FOR… Cosmopolitan city and Culturally vibrant city Old Town grace galore with a post-industrial BJ edge BEST TIME TO GO mK #9# Late spring, summer and autumn, when the Bern # Lucerne light and weather are best. # ##8 I ESSENTIAL # Fribourg PHOTO lL##1 Stanserhorn The verdant Emmental An open-air cable car; region exemplifies Grindelwald Hiking at the foot of the Eiger the perfect Lake pastoral perfection. Lucerne panorama 402 km K BEST FOR CULTURE Zürich’s mighty museums and relentless nightlife are intoxicating. 541

38 Geneva to #\\ Zürich Baume- Doubs les-Dames #] Besançon Rather than take a straight line from Geneva to Zürich, this trip gives you room to roam some FRANCE of Switzerland’s finest sights: small cities with \\# Ornans Morteau charming Old Towns, heaven-sent lakes with dreamy #\\ /·E23 views, winding roads through countryside that is by turns bucolic and wild, an adventure capital with the Pontarlier #\\ \\# perfect setting, a train ride to the top of Europe and Fôret de la Joux Sainte- \\# Croix scenic ascents that will have you gasping, all book- ended by Switzerland’s cultural capitals. \\# Vallorbe Lac de Joux Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Jura Morez MorgLeasusann#]e \\# #\\ Les #\\ #\\ Rousses TRIP HIGHLIGHT Pâquis (%022 732 29 74; Nyon Lake www.bains-des-paquis.ch; Quai Geneva 1 Geneva du Mont-Blanc 30; h9am-8pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep). \\# \\# Cosmopolitan Geneva is a rare blend: a multicultural Plenty of museums will A1/· /·Gex #\\ 1 #\\ Thonon- population chattering tempt you: among the in every language under best are the Musée d’Art Yvoire les-Bains the sun, a distinctly French feel, one of the Moderne et Contempo- ##]1 lL world’s most expensive rain (MAMCO; %022 320 61 #\\ Annemasse cities, a stronghold of the 22; www.mamco.ch; Rue des Geneva #\\ Protestant Reformation, Vieux-Grenadiers 10; adult/ ·/E25 a synonymity with num- child Sfr8/free; hnoon-6pm I# bered bank accounts and Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) p552 Bonneville a humanitarian haven. the Musée International \\# With a whole day and de la Croix-Rouge et 1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) and the night, schedule time for lavish timepieces of Patek Geneva’s magnificent Old du Croissant-Rouge Philipe Museum (%022 Town. Waterside attrac- (International Red Cross & 807 09 10; www.patekmuseum. tions exert a strong pull, Red Crescent Museum; www. so make a beeline for the redcrossmuseum.ch; Av de la com; Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers emblematic Jet d’Eau Paix 17; adult/child Sfr15/7; (Quai Gustave-Ador) and the h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 7; adult/child Sfr10/free; h2- egalitarian public swim- to 5pm Nov-Mar), the new 6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat). ming baths at Bains des ICT Discovery (%022 730 If you’re after a behind- 61 55; www.ictdiscovery.org; the-scenes glimpse of the Rue de Varembé 2; h10am- UN or the Large Hadron Collider, prebook a tour of the Palais des Nations 542

\\# /·E60 Altkirch \\# /·A35 #\\ Lörrach 230 km to Montbeliard \\# Feldbach ^# /·A8 FG35 ‚ Porrentruy \\# Basel Baden mKWinterthur #\\ #\\ #\\ #]#9 Zürich #\\ \\# #\\ Delémont Aarau Audincourt \\# /·18 Liestal #\\ Aare #\\ Olten Balsthal ·/A4 Moutier #\\ \\# Hallwilersee Maiche #\\ \\# Tramelan #\\ Menziken #\\ Solothurn Lange\\#nthal \\# #\\ ·/E35 Baldeggersee \\# Zug La Chaux- Zugersee SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich #\\ Biel-Bienne Agerisee \\# de-Fonds Liger\\#zBielersee Burgdorf Unesco #\\ /·# # /· # ###\\ E27 Biosphere #]7 Lucerne Schwyz Neuchâtel #\\ 5 Langnau im Entlebuch Lake Lucerne #\\ Emmental 6 #\\ Brunnen Murten Emmental #\\ Stans #\\ ]#4 Region \\# Lac de R8 Altdorf Neuchâtel Bern 10 Sarnen #\\ ·/#\\ A5 /·A1 ##\\2 Fribourg ·/A6 Stanserhorn \\# #\\ Yverdon Romont Thun GFBrienz 37 #\\ \\# Brienzersee \\# Engelberg SWITZERLAND Spiez \\# FG37 ##\\ #\\ #\\3 Interlaken Meiringen ·/ ·/Charmey 11 A8 Andermatt \\# Wengen #\\ #\\ \\# Lauterbrunnen \\#\\# \\# Grindelwald /·Lutry H#\\# #\\ Bulle Gruyères 189 R # Jungfraujoch Airolo Schilthorn \\# Lavaux \\# (2970m) #\\ Mürren Château-d'Œx Zweisimmen \\#Oberwald #\\ p548 \\# Montreux Gstaad ·/ 4444Cul\\#ly 9Ve#\\vey \\# Kandersteg \\# #\\ #\\ Leukerbad ·/11 37 Betten \\# #\\ Fiesch Bignasco FG\\# ITALY \\# #\\ Aigle /·4444Crans- Sierre \\# Brig /·A9 Montana #\\ \\# #\\ A9 \\# Visp Châtel #\\ Sion #\\ 4 Varzo #\\ #\\ \\# Avoriaz 44e# Les Gets 0 50 km 0 25 miles Martigny \\# \\# Verbier Täsch #\\ 44444R LIRNK #^ #\\ (%022 907 48 96; www.unog. ch; Av de la Paix 14; adult/child 543 4444Sfr12/7; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat YOUR TRIP Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 2-4pm | The Swiss Alps z The Romantic Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) or CERN It’s a two-hour Road (%022 767 84 84; www.cern. (147km) drive southeast from Zürich to Arosa, From Zurich, drive east ch; Meyrin; hguided tour 11am the starting point of the via the A1 to Füssen in Swiss Alps whirl. Germany, and do the Mon-Sat, 1pm Mon, Tue, Thu & gorgeous Romantic Road Fri), respectively. trip in reverse, See also the Stretch Your Legs walking tour for Geneva on p552. 5 p549

HANS GEORG EIBEN / GETTY IMAGES ©The Drive » From Geneva, facades, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (%026 305 SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich head west via the A1 until the 51 40; www.mahf.ch; Rue de A9 (follow signs to Vevey/ Morat 12; adult/child Sfr8/ Montreux). Take exit 11 and free; h11am-6pm Tue, Wed & countryside aplenty. Head first follow signs for Lutry. From Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu) and the to the village of Charmey via Rte Lutry, take Rte 9 (direction outsize Cathédrale de 189, then to Boltingen. Next take Vevey) until Cully, then head up St Nicolas de Myre (www. Rte 11 to Speiz on Lake Thun, Rte de la Corniche to Chexbres. cathedrale-fribourg.ch; Rue from where you’ll follow Rte 8 to Next follow Rte du Genevrex and des Chanoines 3; tower adult/ Interlaken. get on the A9, followed by the child Sfr3.50/1; h9.30am- A12 to Fribourg (143km total). 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 2-5pm Sun, tower 10am-noon & 2 Fribourg 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 2-5pm Sun Apr-Oct) with its Nowhere is Switzerland’s 74m-tall tower. Be sure language divide felt more to make time for a couple keenly than in Fribourg of the city’s bohemian (Freiburg or ‘Free Town’), cafe-bars, such as Le a medieval city where Port (p549) or Café the inhabitants on the west bank of the River Culturel de l’Ancienne Sarine speak French, and Gare (%026 322 57 72; those on the east bank Esplanade de l’Ancienne-Gare of the Sanne speak Ger- 3; h9am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, man. Sights that merit 9am-3am Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, a look-see include the 11am-midnight Sun). bohemian Espace Jean Tinguely – Niki de Saint 5 4 p549 Phalle (%026 305 51 40; www.mahf.ch; Rue de Morat 2; The Drive » We’ve chosen a adult/child Sfr6/free; h11am- 6pm Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm longish (103km, one hour and Thu), the evocative Old 50 minutes) scenic route along Town filled with Gothic winding roads through lovely small towns in Fribourg and Bern cantons, with unspoiled LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: 3 Interlaken FRIBOURG’S FILTHY FUNICULAR Once Interlaken made the Victorians swoon Nowhere else in Europe does a funicular lurch up with mountain vistas the mountainside with the aid of stinky sewage from the chandelier- water (on certain days it smells as you’d expect). lit confines of grand Constructed in 1899 and managed by the Cardinal hotels; today it makes Brewery until 1965 (when the municipality took over), daredevils scream with the Funiculaire de Fribourg links the lower town adrenaline-loaded with the upper. It runs every six minutes, and the adventures. Straddling ride in one of two counterbalancing water-powered the glittering Lakes Thun carriages from the lower Pertuis station (121m; Place and Brienz and dazzled du Pertuis) to the upper station (618m; Rte des by the pearly whites Alpes) takes two minutes. of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, the scenery is 544

Bern The city’s Zytglogge (Clock Tower) is an important landmark mind-blowing. Check out Schloss Hünegg. After Thun, and fantastical folk the views from Harder you’ll get to the country’s capital figures frolicking on Kulm (www.harderkulm. quickly via the A6. 16th-century fountains, ch), or do a daredevil such as the Kindlifresser- activity with Outdoor 4 Bern brunnen (Kornhausplatz). Interlaken (%033 826 77 Be sure to visit Bern’s 19; www.outdoor-interlaken.ch; Wandering through the Münster (www.berner Hauptstrasse 15; h8am-7pm), picture-postcard Old muenster.ch; Münsterplatz organised in advance. Town, with its laid-back, Leave the car in Inter- riverside air, it’s hard 1; tower adult/child Sfr5/2; laken after spending the to believe that Bern night here and head to (Berne in French) is the h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, the Top of Europe (Jung- Swiss capital, but it is, fraujoch) very early the and a Unesco World 11.30am-5pm Sun May–mid- next morning. Heritage site to boot. The flag-festooned, cobbled Oct, noon-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 4 p549 centre, rebuilt in distinc- tive grey-green sandstone 5pm Sat, 11.30am-4pm Sun The Drive » From Interlaken after a devastating 1405 rest of year), the beautiful fire, is a delight, with Zytglogge (Marktgasse), to Bern is a one-hour (54km) 6km of covered arcades, the famous Bären Park drive via Lake Thun’s cellar shops and bars, (Bear Park; www.baerenpark- Seestrasse, past turreted bern.ch; h9.30am-5pm), the Schloss Oberhoffen and art- architecturally daring nouveau-meets-neorenaissance Zentrum Paul Klee (%031 359 01 01; www.zpk.org; Monument im Fruchtland 3; 545

SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich ISLAND DINING Genevan living is easy in summer when a constant crowd throngs the lakefront quays to hang out in pop-up terrace bars such as La Terrasse (www.laterrasse.ch; Quai du Mont-Blanc 31; h8am-midnight Apr-Sep), the fashionista spot by the water to see and be seen. Meander away from Quai du Mont-Blanc to uncover a brilliant trio of beloved summertime shacks on the water’s edge – alfresco and effortlessly cool. The right-bank address is refreshingly casual: Rhône-side Terrasse Le Paradis (%079 665 35 73; www.terrasse-paradis.ch; Quai Turrettini; sandwiches & salads Sfr10-14; h10am-9pm Jun-Sep) is the type of cafe that practically begs you to pull out a book and stay all day in its deckchairs arranged down steps to the water while sipping beakers of homemade citronnade (lemonade). ‘Paradise’ does not serve alcohol, but the pots of green-mint tea flow and the wholly affordable sandwiches, salads and legendary taboulé hit the spot. Le Bateau Lavoir (Passerelle des Lavandières; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri, 5pm-2am Sat May-Sep) is an eye-catching boat with rooftop terrace moored between the old market hall and Pont de la Coulouvrenière. Its cabin-size dining area cooks fondue and other basic local dishes, the crowd is hip and there is a 360-degree lake view. Its very design and name evokes the wash-house boats – yes, where undies et al were washed – that floated here in the 17th century. Then there’s La Barje (Terrasse des Lavandières; www.labarje.ch; Promenade des Lavandières; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat & Sun Apr-Sep), not a barge at all but a vintage caravan with tin roof and candy-striped facade, parked on the grassy banks of the Rhône near the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices. The beer and music are plentiful, outside concerts and art performances pull huge crowds, and proceeds go towards helping young people in difficulty. adult/child Sfr20/7, audioguide Affoltern and Langnau im The region’s gateway Sfr6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Emmental is 21km (25 minutes). towns of Burgdorf and and the well-endowed Langnau im Emmental Kunstmuseum (Museum 5 Emmental Region preside over a mellow of Fine Arts; %031 328 09 44; patchwork of quiet vil- www.kunstmuseumbern.ch; After so much city time, lages, grazing cows and Hodlerstrasse 8-12; adult/child the postcard-perfect fabulous farm chalets Sfr7/free; h10am-9pm Tue, to landscapes of rural with vast barns and over- 5pm Wed-Sun). Switzerland beckon, with hanging roofs, strung out the bucolic idyll that is along the banks of the 5 4 p549 the Emmental region, Emme river. Burgdorf where iconic and holey (literally ‘castle village’) The Drive » Leave Emmental (Swiss) cheese is split into an Upper and is produced. To see how Lower Town. The natural Bern via the A6 and take the cheese is made, highlight of the Ober- Krauchthalstrasse (35 minutes, head to Emmentaler stadt (Upper Town) is about 24km) through verdant Schaukäserei (%034 the 12th-century Schloss countryside to Burgdorf. 435 16 11; www.showdairy. (castle), with its draw- From Burgdorf to Affoltern im ch; Schaukäsereistrasse 6, bridge, thick stone walls Emmental, 6km to the east, is a Affoltern; h9am-6.30pm and trio of museums. scenic drive past old farmsteads Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) in proudly bedecked with flower Affoltern. The Drive » From Langnau boxes, neat woodpiles and kitchen gardens. Rte 23 between im Emmental, take Rte 10 for 546

30 minutes (23km), crossing bridges Kapellbrücke TRIP HIGHLIGHT SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich over from Bern canton to (Chapel Bridge) and Lucerne canton, until you reach Spreuerbrücke (Spreuer 8 Stanserhorn Schüpfheim, the heart of the Bridge; btwn Kasernenplatz & Entlebuch biosphere. Mühlenplatz), sunny plazas, Looming above the lake, candy-coloured houses and 1898m Stanserhorn (www. 6 Unesco Biosphere waterfront promenades. stanserhorn.ch) boasts Entlebuch Legend has it that an angel 360-degree vistas of Lake with a light showed the Lucerne, Mt Titlis, Mt The 39,000-plus-sq-km first settlers where to build Pilatus and the Bernese Entlebuch area (www. a chapel in Lucerne, and Alps, among others. biosphaere.ch; a mixed today it still has amazing Getting to the summit is mountain and highland grace. half the fun. The journey ecosystem) was declared a starts with a ride on a Unesco Biosphere Reserve One minute it’s nostal- vintage 19th-century in 2001. Far from being a gic (its emotive lion monu- funicular from Stans lonely wilderness outpost, ment; Löwendenkmal; to Kälti; from here, the reserve is home Denkmalstrasse), the next the nearly transparent to some 17,000 people highbrow, with concerts CabriO (%041 618 80 40; keen to preserve their at acoustic marvel Kultur www.cabrio.ch; Stansstad- traditional dairy-farming erstrasse 19, Stans, ticket lifestyle. The landscape of und Kongresszentrum office; all-inclusive funicular karst formations, sprawl- (KKL; %tour reservations 041 & cable-car fare adult/child ing moors (some 25% of 226 79 50; www.kkl-luzern. one-way Sfr37/9.25, return the area), Alpine pastures ch; Europaplatz; guided tour Sfr74/18.50, online boarding and mountain streams, adult/child Sfr15/9) and the pass Sfr5; hmid-Apr–early which rise from 600m peerless Picasso collection Nov), launched in 2012 as to some 2350m above of Museum Sammlung the world’s first cable car sea level, makes for some Rosengart (%041 220 16 60; with an open upper deck, stirring scenery. The park www.rosengart.ch; Pilatusstrasse takes you the rest of the office is in Schüpfheim. 10; adult/student Sfr18/16; way, offering amazing h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-5pm on-the-go views. The Drive » Driving through Nov-Mar). Crowd-pleasers such as Verkehrshaus On sunny days and Entlebuch from Schüpfheim, (Swiss Museum of Transport; when large numbers of you’ll take the Panoramastrasse %041 370 44 44; www.verkehr travellers are expected, (which deserves to be more shaus.ch; Lidostrasse 5; adult/ you’ll need to book an famous) to the town of Giswil child Sfr30/15; h10am-6pm online ‘boarding pass’ (Obwalden canton; 50 minutes, Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; c) to confirm your time of 37km). Next, follow the signs and the city’s surrounding departure and subsequent to Lucerne (Luzern in German) natural wonders never fail return. along the A8 (30 minutes, to impress, while balmy 30km). summers and golden au- At the summit there’s tumns ensure this ‘city of the star-shaped Rondo- 7 Lucerne lights’ shines constantly. rama, the region’s only revolving restaurant, Recipe for a gorgeous 5 4 p549 which rotates 360 de- Swiss city: take a cobalt grees every 43 minutes. lake ringed by mountains The Drive » A fast 15-minute, Kids love the nearby of myth (Pilatus, Rigi), add marmot park, where the a well-preserved medieval 15km journey along the A2 critters can be observed Altstadt (Old Town), then will get you from Lucerne to in a near-natural habitat. sprinkle with covered Stans’ Stansstaderstrasse 19, from where the journey up to Stanserhorn begins. 547

SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich DETOUR: JUNGFRAUJOCH: THE TOP OF EUROPE Presided over by monolithic Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Maiden), the crown jewels of Bernese Oberland’s Alpine scenery, will make your heart skip a beat. The ‘big three’ peaks have an enduring place in mountaineering legend, particularly the 3970m Eiger, whose fearsome north wall remained unconquered until 1938. Today, it takes only 2½ hours from Interlaken Ost (return fare Sfr204.40) by train to Jungfraujoch (3454m), Europe’s highest station. From May through to October, the Good Morning Ticket costs Sfr145 if you take the first train (6.35am from Interlaken Ost) and leave the summit by 1pm. From Kleine Scheidegg (the last stage of the journey), the train burrows through the Eiger before arriving at the Sphinx meteorological station. Opened in 1912, the tunnel took 3000 men 16 years to drill. Along the way, the Eigerwand and Eismeer stops have panoramic windows offering glimpses across rivers of crevassed ice. Good weather is essential for this journey; check beforehand on www.jungfrau. ch and always take warm clothing, sunglasses and sunscreen. Within the Sphinx weather station there’s a nice sculpture gallery, restaurants, indoor viewpoints and a souvenir shop. Outside there are views of the 23km-long Aletsch Glacier. On cloudless days, the views stretch as far as the Black Forest in Germany. When you tire (as if!) of the view, you can zip across the frozen plateau on a flying fox, dash downhill on a sled or snow disc, or enjoy a bit of tame skiing or boarding at the Snow Park. A day pass covering all activities costs adult/child Sfr45/25. If you cross the glacier along the prepared path, in around an hour you reach the Mönchsjochhütte (%033 971 34 72; www.moenchsjoch.ch; dm/d with half-board Sfr28/64; hlate Mar–mid-Oct) at 3650m, where hardcore rock climbers psyche themselves up to tackle the Eiger or Mönch. The Drive » Retrace your yet Switzerland’s largest shaker steeples, and the and wealthiest metropolis excellent Kunsthaus (%044 route along the A2 and head in has an artsy, postindus- 253 84 84; www.kunsthaus.ch; the direction of Lucerne before trial edge. Much of the Old Heimplatz 1; adult/child Sfr15/ changing to the A4 and following Town, with its winding free, Wed free; h10am-8pm the signs to Zürich (50 minutes, lanes and quaint squares, Wed-Fri, to 6pm Tue, Sat & Sun), 65km). is lovingly intact. Must-see which holds an impressive sights include the glorious permanent collection. In TRIP HIGHLIGHT Fraumünster (www.frau summer, the fun revolves muenster.ch; Münsterhof; around the pools of the 9 Zürich lake and river, such as See- h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm bad Utoquai (%044 251 61 51; Culturally vibrant, effi- Nov-Mar), with its Marc Utoquai 49; adult/child Sfr7/3.50; ciently run and attractively Chagall stained-glass h7am-8pm mid-May–mid-Sep), set at the meeting of river windows, the Grossmün- Frauenbad (Stadthausquai) and lake, Zürich is con- ster (www.grossmuenster.ch; and Männerbad (Badweg 10). stantly recognised as one Grossmünsterplatz; h10am- of the world’s most liveable 5 p549 cities. It’s a savvy, hard- 6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb) working financial centre, with its salt-and-pepper- 548