Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

PABLO RODRIGO GARCÍA-ARÁEZ / GETTY IMAGES © Douro Valley 32Vineyard Trails The Douro is a little drop of heaven. Uncork this region on Porto’s doorstep and you’ll soon fall head over heels in love with its terraced vineyards, wine estates and soul-stirring vistas. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS 358KM / 222 MILES 171 km 193 km Quinta do Crasto Pinhão GREAT FOR… Eyrie-like winery in the Wine tastings and Douro Unesco-listed Alto cruises on a gorgeous HJ Douro region mKbend in the river BEST TIME TO GO lL Peso da #7 Miranda do Douro Spring for wildflowers, #1 ##Regua 4 8 early autumn for the # # grape harvest. # I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Vila Nova de Foz Côa The staggering view of the Douro vineyards Porto Casal de Loivos from Casal de Loivos Medieval core, historic Gasp-eliciting views of miradouro. port lodges galore and Douro vines cascading a whole lotta soul down the hillsides K BEST FOR 1 km 197 km FOODIES Douro Valley Vineyards to the west of Porto Chef Rui Paula keeps it regional at DOC, with vineyard and river views from its terrace. 449

32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails You’re in for a treat. This Unesco World Heritage region is hands down one of Portugal’s most evocative landscapes, with mile after swoon-worthy mile of vineyards spooling along the contours of its namesake river and marching up terraced hillsides. Go for the food, the fabulous wines, the palatial quintas, the medieval stone villages and the postcard views on almost every corner. #^ #\\ #\\ #\\ Esposende Barcelos Braga \\#Póvoa de \\# \\# Lanhoso #^ Taipas Vila Nova de #\\ /·A7 \\#dVeilaAPgouuiacra Famalicão Fafe \\# \\# /·N2 #\\ Guimarães \\# 0¸Trofa #\\ #\\ #\\ Felgueiras Parque Casa do Natural Visconde de Caldas de ·/IC5 do Alvão Chanceleiros Vizela Vila Real #^ Amarante \\# N206 ·/A4 #\\ Casal de 0¸ ¸0 ##ega \\# ## ## #Marco de #\\ Maia N313-1 Loivos 68 \\# N101 Quinta do Vallado Penafiel #\\ Río Tâm Mesão Frio \\# 23 4 #\\5 #\\7 lL#Porto 1 ¸0 H#Canaveses Valongo N108 /·#\\ Rio Douro \\# 0¸N108 Peso da p452 Pinhão Régua Vila Nova Quinta do Quinta Lamego\\# Crasto Nova \\# N2 de Gaia Castelo #\\ ¸0N226 \\# Espinho \\# de Paiva Tarouca /·IP3 ATOLCAENATNIC Moimenta da Beira #\\ Arouca Sernancelhe Castro Daire \\# #\\ /·Ovar \\# A1 0¸N329 440 km to Aguiar da Beira\\# FG33 São Pedro ‚ do Sul \\#

TRIP HIGHLIGHT hillside. Many open their to British-run Taylor’s PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails barrel-lined cellars for (%223 742 800; www.taylor. 1 Porto guided tours and tastings pt; Rua do Choupelo 250; tour – usually of three differ- €5; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to Before kick-starting your ent ports – that will soon 5pm Sat & Sun) (don’t miss road trip, devote a day or help you tell your tawny the immense 100,000L two to Porto, snuggled on from your late-bottled barrel), Graham’s (%223 banks of the Río Douro, vintage. Top billing goes 776 484; www.grahams-port. where life is played out in the mazy lanes of LINK u Historic the medieval Ribeira YOUR Castilla y León district. From here, the TRIP double-decker Ponte de For a taste of historic Dom Luís I, built by an x Alentejo Spain, head east from apprentice of Gustav Eif- & Algarve Miranda do Douro across fel in 1877, takes the river Beaches the border to Tordesillas, in its stride. Cross it to then southeast to Madrid reach Vila Nova de Gaia, Do one trip in reverse: (about 3 hours). where grand 17th-century about four hours south port lodges march up the from Porto are great beaches and towns with Moorish heritage. e# 0 Km #40 km Mirand#\\a 0 do Douro 20 miles 1\\#0 Mirandela #\\ ·/IP2 #\\ /·A4 Duas Igrejas 45 km Murça \\# to Lodões Mogadouro FG30 #\\ ‚ #\\ /·IC5 #\\ Alijó ¸0N102 Trabanca \\# \\#Tua Fornos #\\ ¸0N222 Rio Douro #\\ São João de hão Pesqueira \\# Pocinho Parque SPAIN Natural do Douro #\\ Saucelle #\\ Duero International #9 Barca#\\ Rio \\# Vilagudino de Alva Vila Nova de Foz Côa ·/Marialva IP2 Figueira #\\ Lumbrales #\\ de Castelo San Felices #\\ Rodrigo #\\ de los #\\ Gallegos ¸0N102 \\# Trancoso Pinhel Martin de Yeltes 451 #\\ #\\ \\# #\\

PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails com; Rua do Agro 141; tour demarcated port-wine The Drive » From Peso da €5-20; h9.30am-6pm Apr- area. It grew into a major Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar) and port-wine entrepôt in the Régua, take the first exit onto Calém (%223 746 672; www. 18th century. While not the N2 at the roundabout at calem.pt; Avenida Diogo Leite as charming as its set- the end of Rua Dr Manuel de 344; Cellar visit & tasting adult/ ting, the town is worth Arriaga, then the third exit at reduced/under 12 €5/2.50/ visiting for its Museu do the next roundabout to join the free; h10am-6.30pm). Douro (www.museudodouro. N313. Turn right onto the N313-1 pt; Rua Marqués de Pombal; when you see the yellow sign to The Drive » There are quicker adult/concession €6/3; Quinta do Vallado. It’s around a h10am-6pm daily May-Oct, 5km drive. ways of getting from A to B, Tue-Sun Nov-Apr). Housed in sure, but for immersion in Douro a beautifully converted 3 Quinta do Vallado wine country, you can’t beat this riverside warehouse, three-hour (137km) drive east the museum whisks Ah, what views! The on the N108. The serpentine you through the entire vineyards spread pic- road shadows the Río Douro wine spectrum, from turesquely before you from Porto to Peso da Régua, impressionist landscapes from Quinta do Vallado with views of hillsides combed to the remains of an (%254 318 081, 254 323 with vines, little chapels and old flat-bottomed port 147; www.quintadovallado. woodlands spilling down to the hauler. Down at the com; Vilarinho dos Freires; sparkling river. pier, you’ll find frequent r €120-180; paWs), 50-minute boat trips to a glorious 70-hectare 2 Peso da Régua Pinhão, offered by Tomaz winery. It brings together do Douro (%222 081 935; five rooms in an old Terraced hills scaled www.viadouro-cruzeiros. stone manor and eight with vines like a dragon’s com; cruises from €10), for swank rooms in an ultra- backbone rise around instance. modern slate building, riverside Peso da Régua. decked out with chestnut The sun-bleached town 5 4 p457 and teak wood, each is the region’s largest, complete with a balcony. abutting the Río Douro They all share a gorgeous at the western end of the pool. Guests get a free tour of the winery, with a DETOUR: tasting. Have a fine wine- DOC paired meal and stay the night. The staff can also Start: 2 Peso da Régua help arrange activities like cycling, hiking, Architect Miguel Saraiva’s ode to clean-lined, glass- fishing or canoeing – just walled minimalism, DOC (%254 858 123; www.ruipaula. ask. com; Folgosa; mains €27.50-29; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30- 11pm) is headed up by Portuguese star chef Rui Paula. The Drive » From Quinta do Its terrace peering out across the river is a stunning backdrop. Dishes give a pinch of imagination to Vallado, the N313-2, CM1258 seasonal, regional flavours, from fish açordas (stews) and N322-2 take you on a to game and wild mushrooms – all of which are 29km drive east through the paired with carefully selected wines from the cellar. curvaceous wine terraces of the It’s in Folgosa, midway between Peso da Régua and Alto Douro, past immaculately Pinhão, on the south side of the river. Take the N2 tended rows of vines and chalk- south of Peso da Régua, then hook onto the N222 white hamlets, with tantalising heading east. glimpses of the river below. After Gouvinhas, the wiggling road takes you south to Quinta do Crasto. 452

TRIP HIGHLIGHT com; s €134-152, d €152-173; TRIP HIGHLIGHT PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails Ws) is simply stunning. 4 Quinta do Crasto Besides plush lodgings 7 Pinhão in a beautifully restored Perched like an eyrie on 19th-century manor, it Encircled by terraced a promontory above the offers romantic grounds, hillsides that yield Río Douro and a spec- a pool gazing out across some of the world’s best tacular ripple of terraced vines rolling into the dis- port – and some damn vineyards, Quinta do tance, a restaurant, wine good table wines too – Crasto (%934 920 024, 254 tours, tastings and some little Pinhão sits on a 920 020; www.quintadocrasto. of the region’s top walk- particularly lovely bend pt; Sabrosa, Gouvinhas; tours ing trails – the longest of of the Río Douro. Winer- €18; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) which is 2½ hours. ies and their competing quite literally takes your signs dominate the scene breath away. The winery The Drive » It’s a 10km drive and even the delight- is beautifully set amid ful train station has the lyrical landscapes of east from Quinta Nova to Casa azulejos (tiles) depict- the Alto Douro, a Unesco do Visconde de Chanceleiros ing the grape harvest. World Heritage site. Stop on the CM1268, tracing the The town, though cute, by for a tour and tasting contours of the emerald-green holds little of interest, or lunch. It produces vines unfurling around you but makes a fine base for some of the country’s exploring the surround- best drops – reds that 6 Casa do Visconde ing vineyards. From are complex, spicy and de Chanceleiros here, you can also cruise smooth, with wild berry upriver into the heart of aromas, and whites that Fancy staying the night the Alto Douro aboard a are fresh, with a mineral up in the hills of the sub- traditional flat-bottomed nose and tang of citrus lime Alto Douro? Casa port boat with Douro-a- and apples. Designed by do Visconde de Chance- Vela (%918 793 792; www. Portuguese architect Ed- leiros (%254 730 190; www. douro-a-vela.pt; 1hr cruise uardo Souto Moura, the chanceleiros.com; s €130-140, €25). Catch the boat from plunge pool here appears d €135-170; pWs) is the Folgosa do Douro to nosedive directly into a gorgeous 250-year- pier. Or rewind to the the valley below. old manor house, with early days of viniculture spacious standard and on a guided tour followed The Drive » From Quinta do superior rooms featuring by a tasting at Quinta classic decor and patios. Crasto it’s an easy 4km drive The expansive views of Nova Wine Museum & east along the mellow banks of the valley and lush ter- Shop (Aris Douro; %254 730 the Río Douro to Quinta Nova via raced gardens steal the 030; www.quintanova.com; the N322-2 and CM1268. show, but so does the out- Largo da Estacão 14; tours & door pool, tennis court, tastings €5; htours 11am, 5 Quinta Nova Jacuzzi, and sauna in a 3pm & 5pm Mon-Sat, 11am & wine barrel. Delicious 3pm Sun Apr-Oct). Set on a ridge, surround- dinners (€38) are served ed by 120 hectares of on request. 5 4 p457 ancient vineyards, over- looking the Douro river The Drive » A gentle 7.5km The Drive » Veer slightly with mountains layered in the distance, Quinta drive east along the M590, with west of Pinhão on the N323 Nova (%254 730 420, 254 spirit-lifting views across the and turn right onto the M585, 730 430; www.quintanova. terraced vineyards, the deep- following the sign for Casal de green Douro and family-run Loivos, 4.5km away. The country quintas, brings you to Pinhão. road that weaves up through 453

SHAUN EGAN / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS ADANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © GREAT TRIP KERRY CHRISTIANI, AUTHOR Step down a gear and enjoy the sweet life. Shadowing the bends in the river from Porto to the Spanish border, the Douro plays up romance, with its steeply climbing vines, giddy views and meandering roads leading to chalk-white hamlets, barrel-lined cellars and historic quintas, where fine meals and Portugal’s best wines are served to the backbeat of cicadas. Top: A boat cruises past the Douro’s terraced vineyards Left: Decorative tiles at Pinhão’s train station Right: The Río Douro framed by surrounding hills 454

PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trailsthe vines, with the river below, later becomes the cobbled MICHAEL MELFORD / GETTY IMAGES © Rua da Calçada, passing socalcos (stone-walled terraced vineyards). TRIP HIGHLIGHT 8 Casal de Loivos It’s a tough call, but Casal de Loivos has hands down one of the most staggeringly beauti- ful views in the region. From the miradouro (viewpoint), the uplifting vista reduces the Douro to postcard format, tak- ing in the full sweep of its stone-walled terraced vineyards, stitched into the hillsides and fringing the sweeping contours of the valley, and the river scything through them. To maximise on these dreamy views, stay the night at Casa de Casal de Loivros (%254 732 149; www.casadecasaldeloivos.com; s/d €90/110; is). The elegant house has been in this winemaking family for nearly 350 years. The halls are enlivened by museum-level displays of folkloric dresses, and the perch – high above the Alto Douro – is spec- tacular. Swim laps in the pool while peering down across the vines spread- ing in all directions. The Drive » Backtrack on the N323, then pick up the N222 south of the river for the 64km drive southeast to Vila Nova de Foz Côa. The winding road takes you through some picture-book scenery, with whitewashed hamlets and quintas punctuating vines, orchards and olive groves. 455

PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails 9 Vila Nova de derstand just how close ros, visit the Museu da Foz Côa these aeons-old drawings Terra de Miranda (Praça came to disappearing. de Dom João III; admission €2, Welcome to the heart of Sun morning free; h9am-1pm the Douro’s terra quente The Drive » Wrap up your & 2-6pm Wed-Sun, 2-6pm Tue). (hot land). This once- If you’d rather get a taste remote, whitewashed road trip by driving 120km of the rugged nature on town has been on the northeast to Miranda do Douro Miranda’s doorstep, map since the 1990s, via the N102, IP2 and IC5. The Europarques (%273 when researchers, during closer the Spanish border, the 432 396; www.europarques. a proposed project for more you’ll notice the shift in com; adult/child under 10yr a dam, stumbled across scenery, with lushness giving €16/8; htrips 4pm daily, an astounding stash of way to more arid, rugged terrain, plus 11am Sat & Sun) runs Paleolithic art. Thou- speckled with vineyards and 1½-hour river boat trips sands of these mysterious olive groves. along a dramatic gorge. rock engravings speckle Boats leave from beside the Río Côa valley. Come a Miranda do Douro the dam on the Portu- to see its world-famous guese side. Stop by the gallery of rock art at the A fortified frontier town hunkering down on Parque Natural do Douro Parque Arqueológico do the precipice of the Río Vale do Côa (www.arte-coa. Douro canyon, Miranda Internacional Office pt; Av Gago Coutinho 19 A, Foz do Douro was long a bul- (%273 431 457; Largo do Côa; park €10, museum €5 wark of Portugal’s ‘wild Castelo; h9.30am-12.30pm (on Sun afternoons €1), park east’. While its crumbling & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) for the & museum €12; hmuseum castle and handsomely inside scoop on hiking 10am-1.30pm & 2-5.30pm severe 16th-century among the woods and Tue-Sun, park 9am-12.30pm cathedral still lend an air towering granite cliffs & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun). The of medieval charm, mod- of the 832-sq-km park, three sites open to the ern-day Miranda now home to bird species public include Canada do receives weekend Span- including black storks, Inferno, with departures ish tourists, as opposed Egyptian vultures, at around 9.30am from to repelling Castillian peregrine falcons, golden the park museum in Vila attacks. For an insight on eagles and Bonelli’s Nova de Foz Côa, which the region’s border cul- eagles. is the ideal place to un- ture, including ancient rites such as the ‘stick 5 4 p457 dancing’ of the paulitei- 456

Eating & Sleeping Peso da Régua 2 winery runs hour-long tours (€3) followed by tastings at 11am daily. The bright, appealing 5 Castas e Pratos Portuguese €€€ rooms straddle different buildings and private PORTUGAL 32 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails villas are available for weekly rental. Three- (%254 323 290; www.castasepratos.com; course dinners (€25) are perfectly matched Av José Vasques Osório; mains €19.50-22.50; with wines, and during the autumn harvest you h10.30am-11pm) The coolest dining room can even join in with grape-treading traditions. in town is set in a restored wood-and-stone railyard warehouse with exposed original 4 Vintage House Boutique Hotel €€€ timbers. You can order grilled alheira sausage or octopus salad from the tapas bar downstairs or (%254 730 230; www.csvintagehouse. have the seabass on seafood fumet with saffron com; Lugar da Ponte; s €140-210, d €180- filaments, or kid goat in port with fava beans in 285; paiWs) Occupying a string of the mezzanine. 19th-century buildings right on the river, this luxurious sleep is actually very modern once 4 Hotel Régua Douro Hotel €€ you get past the distinctly English facade (a reminder of the key role Brits played in the port (%254 320 700; www.hotelreguadouro.pt; trade). This is where BB King stayed when he rocked the Douro. All rooms have terraces or Largo da Estação; s €91-96, d €112.50-152.50; balconies with river views. paiWs) This industrial-­sized hotel sits by the river and is steps from the train station. It has plush, carpeted rooms in ruby (or Miranda do Douro a is that tawny?) colour schemes and windows overlooking the Douro. The pool is much 5 São Pedro Portuguese €€ appreciated on hot days. (%273 431 321; Rua Mouzinho de Albuquerque; mains €7.50-12.50; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-10pm Pinhão 7 Tue-Sun) This spacious restaurant, just in from 5 Veladouro the main old-town gate, serves up a fine posta á Portuguese € São Pedro (grilled veal steak dressed with garlic (%254 738 166; Rua de Praia 3; mains €6-8; and olive oil). The €11 tourist menu comes with h10am-11pm Mon-Sat) Simple Portuguese soup, main, dessert, wine and coffee. food, such as wood-grilled meats, is served 4 Hotel Parador inside this quaint schist building or outside Santa Catarina Hotel €€ under a canopy of vines. From the train station, (%273 431 005; www.hotelparadorsantacatarina. turn left and go along the main road for 150m, pt; Largo da Pousada; s/d/tr/q €50/80/85/100; then left again under a railway bridge, and right paW) Every guest gets a private veranda at the river. with spectacular views of the gorge at this 4 Quinta de la Rosa B&B €€ luxurious hotel perched on the canyon’s edge. (%254 732 254; www.quintadelarosa.com; d Rooms are a handsome mix of traditional and €80-120, ste €120-140, villa per week €750- contemporary, with hardwood floors, flat-screen 1800) Sitting on the banks of the Douro, 2km TVs and large marble bathrooms. The attached west of Pinhão, this charming vineyard and restaurant is the most upmarket in town. 457

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JUAMPITER / GETTY IMAGES © Alentejo & 33Algarve Beaches On this sunny coastal drive you’ll experience some of Europe’s finest beaches and explore the picturesque, formerly Moorish towns of Portugal’s south. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 4–6 DAYS 360 KM / 225 MILES LlVila Nova de 70 km 310 km Milfontes Aljezur Faro GREAT FOR… # Pretty castle-topped Evocative old town, town, gateway to estuary trips and a HJG glorious beaches bone chapel BEST TIME TO GO Zambujeira do Mar Good all year, but crowded in July and # August. ##4 # Silves mK I ESSENTIAL PHOTO ##9 # Cacela #8# The rock formations at Velha Praia da Marinha. #1#5 K BEST FOR WILDLIFE Sagres Lagos End-of-the-world cliffs Handsome, hedonistic The Sagres area offers and an impressive town with great beaches, great birdwatching fortress restaurants and nightlife and boat trips to view 145 km 180 km dolphins and perhaps whales. Carvoeiro Rock arches at Praia da Marinha 459

33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches Portugal’s southern coasts offer a Mediterranean ideal, with fragrances of pine, rosemary, wine and grilling fish drifting over some absolutely stunning beaches. Only this isn’t the Med, it’s the Atlantic, so add serious surfable waves, important maritime history and great wildlife-watching opportunities to the mix. This drive takes in some of the finest beaches in the region, and explores the intriguing towns, which conserve their tight-knit Moorish street plans. #\\ LlCercal #\\ 451 km to #Vila Nova de Milfontes 1 GF32 Río MiraRío Sado·/IP2 ‚ Castro Río Mira Verde \\# Parque 0¸N263 Ourique \\# ·/IP1 /·N2 doNSautduoraelste ATOLCAENATNIC Alentejano e Ribeira de Oeiras Costa \\# BdearSraangteam 0¸N264 Vicentina Clara Odemira /·IC4 Río Mira \\# #Zambujeira do Mar 2 #\\ Almodôvar \\# São Teotónio Sta Clara- N120 ¸0Praia de /·a-Velha IC1 Odeceixe Ù# \\# # ### ##¸0 # 0¸ H#¸0# ## /· # ¸0 # #VdCiceRCVaVeSaiarnlaapbrãtlMaoooeedpsooPFAPenaBiirtrrtrgeaÙ#iaarePsAuiiiCir8pPfaamreaaloraéiidaodnarrSE\\#iFrieaOaaadgse#\\ai7Bgooitddgr#ÙeÙ#uu6#Ùaa5evredÙ#eecB#\\ieris#Ùeraen\\#ainsx#\\#\\BsA4\\#eAaul#\\Rmlfrf#\\NrA3aogMi1amFamgl2djao0uielbe#\\rR(nz3mnrLti4aubeaRae6serSglimearota9\\#n)estdAaeCl(Pdv9aSoFaNo0s\\#eR&ór12air#\\R2lxtmia5sPeiom)r\\#pc\\#aM4RNhã1i602ooaa66P(n76i7cc3ohCm1tiaq2aR)\\#ure1PvC(12oohRB4dLriei\\#S7abqcoaimerihurigAlrrdSoeev)#\\aoaraiãsdeagraoeoSseAd\\#mOMeeAlPbrd\\#laerugearrlofc\\#oaSdezouieRãrsc\\#o\\#iaaIMPTb\\#1euBFeineAParsFaerrslrtartsiadeeon#Ùle1i\\#éiRleArao3AassilmdbrsdiQaaeeeaidiuruaPeaade#\\Nr\\#AdLt1naee2loamT5iAurôaallJérgVn\\##\\ãi\\#ecbo::SnirISd1lgeddã4eãoaa:r#\\oeM#\\j::LAFaa\\#Moam1tCd5r:Bduooeaeooarsnicxe\\#r#\\Sd::cVhirnEaeaãaeoslrçonl:ApahtocoóBlpoO\\#poi::arolá\\#hcrshãt::eoo\\#l :: ::

PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches1 Vila NovaNatural do SudoesteZambujeira attracts a de Milfontes Alentejano e Costa Vi- backpacker, surfy crowd, Río Gu centina and is still a port though in August the One of the loveliest (Hannibal is said to have town is a party place and towns along this stretch sheltered here) alongside hosts the massive music of the coast, Vila Nova a lovely, sand-edged limb fest, Festa do Sudoeste. de Milfontes has an of estuary. The high-season crowds attractive, whitewashed obscure Zambujeira’s centre, sparkling beaches Milfonte’s narrow out-of-season charms: nearby and a laid-back lanes, tiny plazas and fresh fish in family-run population who couldn’t beach harbour varied restaurants, blustering imagine living anywhere eating and drinking cliff-top walks and a dra- else. Milfontes remains options. The town beach matic, empty coast. much more low-key than is sheltered but can get most resort towns, except busy; the best strand in 4 p469 in August when it’s the vicinity is fantastic The Drive » Cutting back to packed to the hilt with Praia do Malhão, backed surfers and sun-seekers. by rocky dunes and cov- the main road, you then head It’s located in the middle ered in fragrant scrub, south on the N120. It’s about of the beautiful Parque around 7km to the north. 25km to Odeceixe through beautiful coastal woodland. The Drive » It’s a 30km drive 3 Odeceixe through protected parkland on the N393 south to Zambujeira. Parque 2 Zambujeira Located just as you cross NdaotuGrauladdoiaVnaale do Mar into the Algarve from the Alentejo, Odeceixe is an 0¸IC27 São Enchantingly wild endearing whitewashed Domingos #\\ beaches backed by village cascading down rugged cliffs form the a hill below a picture- Mertola #\\ #\\ Moreanes #\\setting of this sleepy perfect windmill on the seaside village. The main southern side of the Ribe- NadGtuuurVnaadl liPeaandraqouead iana deElmCbhaalnszea street terminates at the ria de Seixe valley. It’s a cliff; paths lead to the sleepy town, except in Pomarão #\\ SPAIN #\\ attractive sands below. summer, when it fills with El Granado Quieter than Vila Nova, people keen on its nearby #\\ beach. This tongue of PORTUGAL Alcoutim #\\ R#\\ibVeairqaudeairoFosupana Foz de LINK Odeleite Odeleite YOUR Ribeira de #\\ TRIP Odeleite#\\ 301 km to FGAzinhal #\\ 28 Miguel Anes ‚ w Douro Valley s Costa del Sol (229m) R Vila Real de #\\ Vineyard Trails Beyond the Beaches Santo António\\# Do one trip in reverse: about four hours north For more stunning coast, /· #E01 Cacela from Vila Nova de Milfontes head east across the Velha is a beautiful river valley Spanish border to Seville # mKPedras 17 producing sensational ports and on to Nerja (423km) or and reds. Gibraltar (349km). d'el Rei 16 Tavira #\\#\\ Santa #\\ Luzia #\\ Fuzeta e# 0 20 km 461 0 10 miles

PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches sand is winningly set at a a Moorish feel. A collec- to add to the pictur- rivermouth and flanked tion of cottages winds esqueness, it also sports by imposing schist cliffs down the hill below a ru- an offshore pinnacle and (try saying that with a ined 10th-century hilltop a petite traditional fish- mouthful of porridge...). castle (h24hr). Aljezur is ing harbour. The beach It’s a particularly good close to some fantastic is wildly popular with option for families, as beaches, edged by black surfers of all abilities smaller children can rocks that reach into the and there are several paddle on the peaceful white-tipped, bracing surf schools in the area. river side of the strand sea – surfing hot spots. The beach break is reli- while older kids tackle The handsomest beach able, but there’s also a the waves on the ocean in the Aljezur area, on right-hand reef break side. The beach is 3.5km the north side of the pic- that can offer some of from Odeceixe itself along turesque rivermouth and the Algarve’s best surf- a charming country road. backed by wild dunes, ing when there’s a big At the beach, a small is Praia da Amoreira. swell. There’s a small, village has eating and It’s 9km by road from very popular beachside surfing options. The Rota Aljezur, signposted off restaurant, and clifftop Vicentina, a long-distance the main road north of eateries near the ruined walking path that leads town. fortress up above, which right to the southwestern offers breathtaking vis- tip of Portugal, passes The Drive » A couple of tas. Good diving is also through Odeceixe, and possible here. there are great day walks kilometres south of Aljezur, in the vicinity. the beaches of Monte Clérigo The Drive » Praia de Vale and Arrifana are signposted off The Drive » It’s an easy 15km to the right. At the top of the Figueira is reached by a rough hill, head right (towards Monte road that runs some 5km down the N120 to Aljezur, through Clérigo) for the full coastal from the main road at a point woodland and open shrubland panorama before winding your 10km south of Aljezur. Before patched with heather and gorse. way south to Arrifana. reaching the turnoff, you must turn right off the N120 on to TRIP HIGHLIGHT 5 Praia da Arrifana the N268 4 Aljezur Arrifana is a seductive 6 Praia de fingernail-shaped cove Vale Figueira The old part of Aljezur is embraced by cliffs. Just an attractive village with One of the remoter west coast beaches, this is a TOP TIP: long, wide and mag- FAMILY ATTRACTIONS nificent stretch of whitish sand with an ethereal This central section of the Algarve coast is great beauty, backed by strati- for families, with numerous water parks and other fied cliffs hazy in the attractions in the area. Two of the most popular are ocean spray. It’s reached Slide & Splash (%282 340 800; www.slidesplash.com; by a rough, partly paved Estrada Nacional 125; adult/child 5-10yr €26/19; h10am- road. The beach, which 5pm, 6pm or 6.30pm daily May-Sep, Mon-Sat Apr & Oct) and has no facilities, faces Aqualand (%282 320 230; www.aqualand.pt; N125, Sítio due west and has pretty das Areias, Alcantarilha; adult/child €22.50/16.50; h10am- reliable surf, especially 6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm late Jun & early Sep). when a southeaster is blowing. It’s one of those lonely, romantic beaches 462

that’s great to stroll on TOP TIP: PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches even when the weather’s THE SAGRES EAT nasty. SCENE The Drive » Head back to the A closely packed string of surfer-oriented places on Rua Comandante Matoso offer a bit of everything, main road and turn right onto whether it’s a coffee or a caipirinha you’re after: they it. It’s about 10km from here to are cafes by day, restaurants serving international Carrapateira. favourites whatever time hunger drags you away from the beach, and lively bars by night. Further 7 Carrapateira down the same street, near the port, is a cluster of more traditional Portuguese restaurants. Surf-central Carra- pateira is a tranquil, remote peninsula amid observe dolphins and pretty, spread-out picturesque seaside scen- seabirds. Mar Ilimitado village offering two ery with a sculpted coast- (%916 832 625; www.marilimi- fabulous beaches with line and stern fortress tado.com; Porto da Baleeira) is spectacular settings and (%282 620 140; http://www. a recommended operator. turquoise seas. Bordeira is a mammoth swath of monumentosdoalgarve.pt/ 5 4 p469 sand merging into dunes 2km from the north pt/monumentos-do-algarve/ The Drive » Head back to Vila side of town. Amado, with even better surf, fortaleza-de-sagres; adult/ do Bispo and turn right onto the is at the southern end. N125 that will take you to Lagos, The circuit of both from child €3/1.50; h9.30am- a total drive of 34km. Promising Carrapateira (9km) is a beach detours include Zavial visually stunning hike 8pm May-Sep, to 5.30pm and Salema. (or drive), with lookouts Oct-Apr) giving access to over the beaches and a stunning clifftop walk. TRIP HIGHLIGHT rocky coves and cliffs It also appeals for its ac- between them. In town, cess to fine beaches and 9 Lagos the Museu do Mar e da water-based activities; Terra (%282 970 000; Rua it’s especially popular Touristy, likeable Lagos de Pescador; adult/child with surfers. Outside lies on a riverbank, €2.70/1.10; h10am-5pm town, the striking cliffs with 16th-century Tue-Sat) is an intriguing of Cabo de São Vicente walls enclosing the old place to visit, with great (hlighthouse complex 10am- town’s pretty, cobbled views. streets and picturesque 6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm plazas. A huge range of The Drive » The N268 barrels Oct-Mar), the southwest- restaurants and pumping ernmost point of Europe, nightlife add to the allure on right down to Portugal’s tip at make for an enchanting provided by fabulous Sagres (22km), via the regional visit, especially at sunset. beaches and numerous centre of Vila do Bispo. Make sure you pop into watery activities. Aside the small museum (adult/ from the hedonism, TRIP HIGHLIGHT child €1.50/1; h10am-6pm there’s plenty of history here: start by visiting the 8 Sagres Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm lovably higgledy-piggledy Oct-Mar) here, which has Museu Municipal (%282 The small, elongated interesting background 762 301; Rua General Alberto village of Sagres, with a on the Algarve’s star- da Silveira; adult/concession rich nautical history, has ring role in the Age of €3/1.50; h10am-12.30pm & an appealingly out-of- Discoveries. From Sagres’ the-way feel. It sits on a harbour, worthwhile excursions head out to 463

FERNANDO BUENO / GETTY IMAGES © MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP ANDY SYMINGTON, AUTHOR I can’t think of a more impressive series of beaches than those of Portugal’s south; they are simply magical. There’s a wild and unspoiled romance to the seasprayed west- coast strands, while a succession of sun-baked golden sands in the south includes intriguing island beaches only reachable by boat. I love wandering the region’s tight-knit old towns too, trying to detect which lane that delicious aroma of grilling fish is coming from... Top: Sagres at sunset Left: Faro’s cobbled old town Right: Sunbathers at Praia da Rocha

PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches2-5.30pm Tue-Sun), which incorporates the fabulous CHAD EHLERS / GETTY IMAGES © baroque church Igreja de Santo António (Rua General Alberto da Silveira; adult/child incl museum €3/1.50; h10am- 12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun). Heading out on to the water is a must, perhaps cetacean-spotting with Algarve Dolphins (%282 788 513; www.algarve- dolphins.com; adult/child from €35/25), kayaking with Axessextreme (%919 114 649; www.axessextreme.com; 3hr tour €25) or learning to surf with Lagos Surf Center (%282 764 734; www.lagossurfcenter.com; Rua da Silva Lopes 31; 1-/3-/5-day courses €55/150/225). East of town stretch the long, golden sands of Meia Praia, backed by worth- while beach restaurants. 5 p469 The Drive » Portimão is really just along the coast from Lagos, but it’s a 24km detour inland via the N125 in a car. a Portimão & Praia da Rocha The Algarve’s second- largest town, Portimão’s history dates back to the Phoenicians before it became the region’s fish- ing and canning hub in the 19th century. Though that industry has since declined, it’s still an in- triguing port with plenty of maritime atmosphere. Learn all about the town’s fishing heritage in the excellent Museu de Portimão (%282 405 230; 465

PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches www.museudeportimao.pt; tightly woven medieval the city’s history and is Rua Dom Carlos I; adult/child centre. At the top of the built around a fascinat- €3/free; h2.30-6pm Tue, town, its sizeable castle ing Moorish-era well, 10am-6pm Wed-Sun Sep-Jul, (%282 445 624; adult/conces- complete with spiral 7.30-11pm Tue, 3-11pm Wed- staircase. The old-town Sun Aug), before strolling sion/under 10yr €2.80/1.40/ streets are great for through the no-frills strolling. sardine restaurants of free, joint ticket with Museu the fishermen’s quarter The Drive » Cruise 14km of Largo da Barca near Municipal de Arqueologia the road bridge. At the straight down the N124-1 to the southern end of Portimão €3.90; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, beach at Carvoeiro. stretches the impressive resort beach of Praia da to 6.30pm Mar-May & Sep-Nov, c Carvoeiro Rocha, backed by numer- to 5pm Dec-Feb) offers great ous restaurants and views from the ramparts. Carvoeiro is a cluster of nightlife options. Originally occupied in whitewashed buildings the Visigothic period, rising up from tawny, The Drive » The N125 leads what you see today dates gold and green cliffs and mostly from the Moorish backed by hills. This you east to the junction with the era, though the castle diminutive seaside resort N124-1, that takes you north to was heavily restored in is prettier and more Silves. It’s a drive of only 20km. the 20th century. Below laid-back than many of this, the atmospheric the bigger resorts. The b Silves cathedral (Rua da Sé; admis- town beach is pretty sion €1; h9am-12.30pm & but small and crowded, Silves is one of the however, there are lots Algarve’s prettiest towns 2-5pm Mon-Fri, plus 9am-1pm of other excellent op- and replete with history: Sat Jun-Aug) is the region’s tions in the area. The it was an important best-preserved Gothic most picturesque of trading city in Moorish church. The Museu all, with stunning rock times and preserves a Municipal (%282 444 formations, is Praia da 838; Rua das Portas de Loulé; Marinha, best reached by the Percurso dos Sete adult/under 10yr €2.10/ Vales Suspensos clifftop walk, beginning at Praia free, joint ticket with Castelo Vale Centianes, 2.3km €3.90; h10am-6pm) gives east of town. good background on 4 p469 DETOUR: The Drive » Head back MONCHIQUE to Lagoa to join the N125 Start: a Portimão & Praia da Rocha eastwards. After 25km, turn right and head towards the (p465) coast, emerging atop the long High above the coast, in cooler mountainous beach. It’s a 37km total drive. woodlands, the picturesque little town of Monchique makes a lovely detour, with some excellent options d Praia da Falésia for day hikes, including climbing the Algarve’s highest hills, Picota and Fóia, for super views over the coast. This long straight strip Monchique and the surrounding area have some of sand offers one of the excellent eating choices and nearby Caldas de region’s most impressive Monchique is a sweet little spa hamlet in a narrow first glimpses of coast as wooded valley. The N266 heads north from the N124 north of Portimão; it’s a 27km drive from Lagos to Monchique, then another 30km on to Silves. 466

you arrive from above. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches It’s backed by stunning MERCADO MUNICIPAL cliffs in white and several shades of ochre, gouged Faro’s impressive modern market building (%289 by weather into intrigu- 897 250; www.mercadomunicipaldefaro.pt; Largo Dr Francisco ing shapes and topped by Sá Carneiro; hstalls 7am-3pm Mon-Sat; W) makes a typical pines. The areas great place to wander, to people-watch, to buy fresh near the car parks get produce, to sit down on a terrace with a coffee, or to packed in summer (espe- lunch at one of the several worthwhile eateries. cially as high tides cover much of the beach), but inside, with beautiful built in the 13th century as the strip is over 3km panels depicting the life but heavily damaged long, it’s easy enough to of the Roman-era saint, in the 1755 earthquake. walk and find plenty of and his death by barbe- What you see now is a breathing room. It’s a cue. In the 1755 earth- variety of Renaissance, good beach for strolling, quake, only five tiles fell Gothic and Baroque fea- as the cliffscape con- from the roof. tures. Climb the tower for stantly changes colours lovely views across the and shapes, and there’s a The Drive » Back on the N125, walled town and estuary surprising range of hardy islands. These islands seaside plants in the head eastwards and after 12km are part of the Parque cracks and crevices. you’re in Faro. Natural da Ria Formosa and can be explored on The Drive » Head back to the TRIP HIGHLIGHT excellent boat trips run by Formosamar (%918 N125 and continue eastwards. f Faro 720 002; www.formosamar. Just after bypassing the town com; Clube Naval, Faro Marina). of Almancil, there’s an exit to The capital of the The cathedral has a ‘Almancil, São Lourenço, praias’. Algarve has a distinctly small bone chapel, but The church is signposted from Portuguese feel and much spookier is the one here. plenty to see. Its evoca- at the Igreja de Nossa tive waterside old town Senhora do Carmo (Largo e Igreja de São is very scenic and has do Carmo; chapel €2; h9am- Lourenço de Matos several interesting sights, 1pm & 3-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri, including the excellent 9am-1pm Sat, mass 9am Sun), It’s worth stopping here Museu Municipal (%289 built from the mortal re- to visit the marvel- 897 400; Praça Dom Afonso mains of over a thousand lous interior of this III 14; adult/student €2/1; monks. small church (Church of h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am- St Lawrence; Rua da Igreja; 6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 10am- 5 p469 admission €2; h10am-1pm & 6pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5pm 3-5pm Mon-Sat), built over a Sat & Sun Oct-May), set in a The Drive » It’s 35km east ruined chapel after local former convent. The area people, while digging a is centred around Faro’s along the N125 to Tavira. well, had implored the cathedral (%289 823 018; Despite the road’s proximity saint for help and then www.paroquiasedefaro.org; to the coast, you won’t see struck water. The result- Largo da Sé; adult/child €3/ much unless you turn off: ing baroque masterpiece, free; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Fuzeta is a pleasant waterside built by fraternal master- to 1pm Sat Jun-Aug, to 5pm village to investigate, with boat team Antão and Manuel Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat Sep-May), connections to island beaches. Borges, is wall-to-wall azulejos (painted tiles) 467

MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES © PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches Tavira Saturday street bazaar g Tavira museum of Moorish h Cacela Velha history are among the Set on either side of the attractions. It’s ideal for Enchanting, small and meandering Río Gilão, wandering; the warren of cobbled, Cacela Velha Tavira is a charming cobblestone streets hides is a huddle of white- town. The ruins of a pretty, historic gardens washed cottages edged hilltop castle (Largo and shady plazas. Tavira with bright borders, and Abu-Otmane; h8am-5pm is the launching point for has a pocket-sized fort, Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun, to the stunning, unspoilt orange and olive groves, 5pm winter), now housing beaches of the Ilha de and gardens blazing a pleasant little botanic Tavira, a sandy island with colour. It sits above garden, the Renaissance that’s another part of the a gorgeous stretch of Ria Formosa park. sea, with a character- Igreja da Misericórdia ful local bar, plus other (Rua da Galeria; h9am-1pm 4 p469 restaurants, a church & 2-6pm Mon-Sat), and the The Drive » Cacela Velha and heart-lifting views. Núcleo Islâmico (Praça From nearby Fábrica, da República 5; adult/child is 14km east of Tavira: head you can get a boat across €2/1, joint admission with along the N125 and you’ll see it to the splendid Cacela Palácio da Galeria €3/1.50; signposted; it’s 1km off the road. Velha beach, which has h10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm mid- a low-key LGBT scene in Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4.30pm summer. Tue-Sat mid-Sep–mid-Jun) 468

Eating & Sleeping Zambujeira do Mar 2 secret is out. This buzzing place pulls in the crowds – locals, tourists and expats – for its 4 Herdade do Touril Rural Inn €€ hearty, top-quality traditional food served in a bustling environment at great prices. Plates of (%937 811 627; www.herdadedotouril.pt; r the day are always reliable, as are the fish dishes. from €90; is) Four kilometres north of Zambujeira do Mar is this upmarket quinta Carvoeiro c building with rooms and apartments of the PORTUGAL 33 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches fluffy-pillow variety. Some are located within 4 O Castelo Guesthouse €€ the original building (built in 1826), others (%919 729 259; www.ocastelo.net; Rua do are converted farm cottages. The rustic and Casino 59; d without view €65, with view contemporary design of this tranquil place has €90-110; aW) To the west of the bay, behind an African safari-lodge feel – without the lions. the turismo, this standout guesthouse with Instead, storks nest in nearby cliffs (note, this a welcoming and justifiably proud owner is area is not safe for children). There’s a seawater recently renovated and gleamingly well- pool, a buffet breakfast and free bikes. Good maintained. Rooms are most inviting; some taste, good choice. share a large terrace and sea views (with sunrises), while one has a private balcony. They Sagres 8 get all the details right; it’s a stunning outlook 5 A Casínha and a lovely, lovely place. Portuguese €€ (%917 768 917; www.facebook.com/acasinha. Faro f restaurantesagres; Rua de São Vicente; mains 5 Faz Gostos Portuguese, French €€ €12-18; hdinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-Sat) (%289 878 422; www.fazgostos.com; Rua do Castelo 13; mains €14-20; hlunch & dinner Mon- This cosy terracotta-and-white spot – built on Fri, dinner Sat; W) Elegantly housed in the old town, this offers high-class French-influenced the site of the owner’s grandparents’ house – Portuguese cuisine in a spacious, comfortably handsome dining area. There’s plenty of game, serves up some fabulous Portuguese cuisine, fish and meat on offer with rich and seductive sauces, and a few set menCuaspatiroenCaavpatiiloanbClaep. tionCaption including standout barbecued fish, a good Tavira g variety of cataplanas for two (€34) and arroz de 4 Casa Beleza do Sul Apartment €€ polvo (octopus rice). High quality and a pleasant (%960 060 906; www.casabelezadosul.com; atmosphere. Rua Dr Parreira 43; apt €90-120; W) A gorgeous historic house in central Tavira is showcased 4 Pousada Luxury Hotel €€€ to full advantage in this beautiful conversion. The result is a cute studio and three marvellous do Infante suites of rooms, all different with original tiled floors and modern bathrooms. All have a (%218 442 001, 282 620 240; www.pousadas. kitchenette and there are numerous decorative and thoughtful touches that put this well above pt; Rua Patrão António Faustino; s/d €215/225, the ordinary. Minimum stays apply. Breakfast available for an extra charge. superior €260/270; paiWs) This modern pousada has large rooms in a great setting near the clifftop. Count on green or orange interiors, handsome public areas and picture-perfect views from the terraces. A well priced, quality pick. Lagos 9 5 A Forja Portuguese €€ (%282 768 588; Rua dos Ferreiros 17; mains €8-15; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Sun-Fri) The 469

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd NEED TO Climate KNOW Warm to hot summers, CURRENCY mild winters Euro (€) # GThOeMDaoyu–rSoep LANGUAGE The Beiras GO Jun & Sep # Portuguese Lisbon # The Alentejo VISAS GO May & Jun # GO May–Sep Generally not required for The Algarve stays of up to 90 days (not GO Jun & Sep # at all for members of EU or Schengen countries). When to Go Some nationalities need a High Season (Jul & Aug) Schengen visa. »»Accommodation prices increase 30%. »»Expect big crowds in the Algarve and coastal resort areas. FUEL »»Sweltering temperatures are commonplace. »»Warmer ocean temperatures. Petrol stations (usually open 24 hours) can be Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Nov) found along major highways. »»Wildflowers and mild days are ideal for hikes and outdoor Expect to pay €1.35 to €1.80 per litre. activities. RENTAL CARS »»Lively festivals take place in June. »»Crowds and prices are average. Auto Jardim (www. »»Colder ocean temperatures. autojardim.com) Low Season (Dec–Mar) Hertz (www.hertz.com) »»Shorter, rainier days with freezing temperatures at higher Holiday Autos (www. holidayautos.com) elevations. Pepecar (www.pepecar.com) »»Lower prices, fewer crowds. »»Attractions keep shorter hours. IMPORTANT NUMBERS »»Frigid ocean temperatures. Europe-wide emergencies (%112) International access code (%00) Country code (%351) 470

Daily Costs Sleeping Taxis €10–€14; around 20 Budget: Less than €50 minutes to the centre. »»Dorm bed: €15–22 Casa no Campo Comfy »»Basic hotel room for two: village houses or farmhouses for Mobile Phones (Cell hire in the countryside. Phones) from €30 Pousadas State funded Local SIM cards are widely »»Lunch special at a family-run accommodation, often in castles, available and can be used converted monasteries and old in European and Australian restaurant: €7–9 mansions. mobile phones. Not compatible with many North American or »»Second-class train ticket from Pensão Inexpensive, extremely Japanese systems. basic guesthouses, often with Lisbon to Faro: from €22 shared bathrooms. Internet Access Midrange: €50–120 Price categories refer to a double Wi-fi is available in most lodgings »»Double room in a midrange room with bathroom in high and cafes (and is usually free). season. Unless otherwise stated, Internet cafes are rare. hotel: €50–100 breakfast is included in the price: Money »»Lunch and dinner in a € less than €60 ATMs widely available, except midrange restaurant: €22–35 €€ €60–120 in the smallest villages. Credit cards accepted in midrange and »»Admission to museums: €2–6 €€€ more than €120 high-end establishments. Top End: More than Arriving in Portugal Tipping €120 Aeroporto de Lisboa »»Boutique hotel room: from (Lisbon) Menu prices indicate a service charge. Most people leave small €120 Rental cars There is a wide change if satisfied: 5% is fine, choice of car-hire companies at 10% is considered generous. »»Dinner for two in a top the airport. Useful Websites restaurant: from €80 Metro €1.90 (including €0.50 Viva Viagem card); red line from Lonely Planet (www. »»Three-day surf course: €150 Aeroporto station; transfer at lonelyplanet.com) Destination Alameda for blue line to Rossio information, articles, hotel Eating and Baixa-Chiado. It’s 20 bookings, traveller forums and minutes to the centre; frequent more. Tapas Bar Tapas and drinks; departures from 6.30am to 1am. Portugal Tourism (www. open longer hours than visitportugal.com) Portugal’s restaurants. AeroBus €3.50; every 20 useful and official tourism Pasteleria Bakery; good for minutes from 7.45am to 8.15pm. authority. pastries and coffee. RAC (www.rac.co.uk/ Vinoteca Wine bar where you Taxis €12–€16; around 20 drivingabroad) Information order by the glass. minutes to the centre. for British drivers on driving in Cervejaria Beerhall; the place Spain and Portugal. to go for snacks and draft beer Aeroporto de Faro (Faro) (cerveja). Price categories indicate the Rental cars Car-rental cost of a main course: agencies have desks in the airport. € less than €10 Buses €1.60; every 30 minutes €€ €10–20 weekdays, every two hours weekends. €€€ more than €20 471

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language Portuguese pronunciation is not difficult because most sounds are also found in English. The exceptions are the nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by ng after the vowel), which are pronounced as if you’re trying to make the sound through your nose; and the strongly rolled r (represented by rr in our pronunciation guides). Also note that the sym- bol zh sounds like the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. The stress generally falls on the second-last syllable of a word. In our pronunciation guides stressed syllables are indicated with italics. PORTUGUESE BASICS EMERGENCIES Hello. Olá. o·laa Help! Socorro! soo·ko·rroo Goodbye. Adeus. a·de·oosh I’m lost. shtoh per·dee·doo Estou perdido. (m) shtoh per·dee·da How are you? Como está? ko·moo shtaa Estou perdida. (f) Fine, and you? Bem, e você? beng e vo·se Excuse me. Faz favor. faash fa·vor ON THE ROAD Sorry. Desculpe. desh·kool·pe Queria ke·ree·a Yes. Sim. seeng I’d like to alugar … a·loo·gaar … hire a … No. Não. nowng bicycle uma oo·ma Please. Por favor. poor fa·vor bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta Thank you. Obrigado. (m) o·bree·gaa·doo car um carro oong kaa·rroo Obrigada. (f) o·bree·gaa·da motorcycle uma mota oo·ma mo·ta You’re welcome. De nada. de naa·da child seat cadeira de ka·day·ra de criança kree·ang·sa What’s your name? helmet capacete ka·pa·se·te Qual é o seu nome? kwaal e oo se·oo no·me mechanic mecânico me·kaa·nee·koo petrol/gas gasolina ga·zoo·lee·na My name is … oo me·oo no·me e … service posto de posh·too de O meu nome é … station gasolina ga·zoo·lee·na Do you speak English? Fala inglês? faa·la eeng·glesh I don’t understand. nowng eng·teng·doo Não entendo. DIRECTIONS Want More? Where’s (the station)? For in-depth language information and Onde é (a estação)? ong·de e (a shta·sowng) handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- et’s Portuguese Phrasebook. You’ll find Can you show me (on the map)? them at shop.lonelyplanet.com. Pode-me mostrar po·de·me moosh·traar (no mapa)? (noo maa·pa) 472

windscreen petrol pára-brisa m gasolina f pa·ra·bree·za ga·so·lee·na battery tyre bateria f pneu m ba·te·ree·a pe·ne·oo engine motor m moo·tor headlight faróis da frente m fa·roysh·da·freng·te How much for daily hire? The car/motorbike has broken down Quanto custa para kwang·too koosh·ta pa ra alugar por dia? a·loo·gaar poor dee·a (at …). oo kaa·rroo/a mo·ta O carro/A mota avariou-se (em …). a·va·ree·oh·se (eng …) How much for weekly hire? Quanto custa para kwang·too koosh·ta pa ra I have a flat tyre. alugar por semana? a·loo·gaar poor se·ma·na Tenho um furo no ta·nyoo oong foo·roo noo pneu. pe·ne·oo Do you have a road map? Tem um mapa de teng oong maa·pa de estradas? shtraa·dash I’ve run out of petrol. Estou sem gasolina. shtoh seng ga·zoo·lee·na Is this the road to …? I need a mechanic. Esta é a estrada esh·ta e a shtraa·da Preciso de um pre·see·zoo de oong para …? pa·ra … mecânico. me·kaa·nee·koo (How long) Can I park here? Can you fix it (today)? (Quanto tempo) (kwang·too teng·poo) Posso estacionar po·soo shta·see·oo·naar Pode-se arranjar po·de·se a·rrang·zhaar (hoje)? (o·zhe) aqui? a·kee How long will it take? What’s the speed limit? Quanto tempo vai kwang·too teng·poo vai Qual é o limite de kwaal e oo lee·mee·te de velocidade? ve·loo·see·daa·de levar? e·vaar Signs Pare Stop Dar Prioridade Give Way Proibido el Paso No Entry Entrada Entrance Portagem Toll Sentido Unico One Way Sair da Autoestrada Freeway Exit 473



Germany GRANDIOSE CITIES, STORYBOOK VILLAGES, VINE-STITCHED VALLEYS AND BUCOLIC LANDSCAPES that beg you to toot your horn, leap out of the car and jump for joy – road-tripping in Germany is a mesmerising kaleidoscope of brilliant landscapes and experiences. The trips in this section take you for a spin from Germany’s edgy cities to fabled Rhine vineyards and the medieval walled towns of Bavaria. Whether you want to cruise past castles, sample wine or climb into the foothills of the Alps, we have something for you. Rothenburg ob der Tauber Traditional half-timbered buildings CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DENMARK SWEDEN Odense Malmö ]# #] Germany ]# Flensburg Prerow #\\ Binz Kiel #\\ #] Kühlungsborn #\\ Warnemünde #\\ ]# Rostock Norddeich Bremerhaven #] #\\ ]# #] Szczecin Wilmhelmshaven POLAND Groningen GF#] Elbe ]# Oldenburg Weser 36 NETHERLANDS Main#] OsnabruckBraunschweig Potsdam #] ]# Ems Rhin ]# Magdeburg ]# Arnhem Enschede #] #] Halle #] ]# Bielefeld Hildesheim ]# Nederrijn Münster R Brocken (1141m) Göttingen ]# Gelsenkirchen ]# #] Krefeld ]# Kassel Radeburg#\\ Maas GF34 GERMANY Erfurt Bad Schandau \\# ]#Aachen #] #^ Gera #] Chemnitz Bonn ]#Würzburg ]# ]# FG36 Zwickau BELGIUM R #] Koblenz Elbe Hohe Acht (747m) LUXEMBOURMGoselle Wiesbaden Vitava e #]#] Mainz CZECH REPUBLIC ]# Trier Darmstadt #] ]# Plzeň Metz Kaiserslautern Mannheim Nuremberg Vitava #] ]# Heidelberg Donau (Danube) #] #] ]# ]# Karlsruhe ]# Salzburg Saarbrücken GF #] ]# 35 Regensberg Rhin (Rhein)]# Donau (Danube#]) Augsburg #] Linz FRANCE Strasbourg Freiburg #] Rhe Zugspitze in (2963m) R AUSTRIA Be#]sançDoonubs Zürich #] ]# Bern LIECHTENSTEIN Innsbruck RG(3r7o9s8smgl)ockner Rhein #] Drau SWITZERLAND 476 #] Lausanne ITALY SLOVENIA

© BAYERISCHE SCHLÖSSERVERWALTUNG, WWW.SCHLOESSER.BAYERN.DE; DON'T IMAGE BY: TAKASHI IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK © MISS Cologne The star of the region, Cologne makes its statement from the moment you spot the twin spires of the legendary Dom. See it on Trip y Würzburg Residenz Wine Tasting y Romantic Rhine 5–7 Days Learn to love Germany’s Fall under the spell of the castle-lined riverscape often excellent white along the world-famous Rhine. (p479) wines. Sip exquisite vintages at the source in z The Romantic Road 10 Days cosy wineries amid the A ribbon of historical quaintness running through Bavaria’s western reaches. (p491) yvineyards on Trip { German Fairy Tale Road 5 Days Würzburg Residenz Learn the fantasies and the horrors in the stories of the Brothers Grimm. (p505) Ogle the world’s largest fresco at Würzburg’s magnificent Unesco- listed palace. Get your zticket as part of Trip Neuschwanstein Castle The world’s most famous castle inspired Walt Disney’s citadel and strikes a fairytale pose against Alpine forests. Book your tour on Trip z 477

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BRIGITTE MERZ / GETTY IMAGES © 34Romantic Rhine After traversing powerhouse riverside cities Düsseldorf, Cologne and Bonn, watch epic scenery unfold as Germany’s Romantic Rhine valley carves between towering cliffs clad in forest and capped by castles, to delightful Mainz. lLTRIP HIGHLIGHTS 198 km 5–7 DAYS # Düsseldorf Rüdesheim 235 KM / 146 MILES # Cologne Escape the crowds by hiking into the GREAT FOR… picturesque vineyards HB Koblenz # mK##14 BEST TIME TO GO ##7 April to October offers the best weather, but Loreley # July and August can be crowded. #1#3 I ESSENTIAL Boppard Mainz PHOTO One of the Romantic Home to rustic wine Rhine’s prettiest towns taverns and a Boat-shaped toll castle 155 km magnificent cathedral Pfalzgrafstein on a 235 km Rhine island. K BEST FOR OUTDOORS Hike through the vines above Rüdesheim. Bacharach St Peter’s Church 479

lLKrefeld Ruh r #] \\# Velbert #Düsseldorf #] ^#1 34 Romantic Rhine ·/A3 Boats gliding down the Rhine give passengers #] mesmerising views of the medieval villages, craggy hillsides, and castle after castle floating past. But /·A57 Solingen on this trip you’ll get up close to its mightiest sights, hike through its loftiest vineyards and discover \\# ]# hidden treasures and romantic hideaways you’d never see from the water. (Though you’ll have plenty of Grevenbroich Leverkusen opportunities en route to board a cruise, too.) Pulheim #\\ I#/· #A61 Cologne #^2 p522 #\\ Brühl #\\ Rhein Sieg Kerpen ¸0Troisdorf #\\ A555 Euskirchen # /·Bonn ]#3 B42 \\# ·/B9 NaHtuorhpeasrk 0¸ ##\\4 Venn-Eifel B257 R Ho(7h4e7mAc)ht 1 Düsseldorf Altstadt (old town), which Neustadt claims to be the ‘longest \\# Survey the mighty Rhine bar in the world’. /·A1 from Düsseldorf’s Medien- hafen. This old harbour The Drive » It’s a 44km Moselle area continues to attract red-hot restaurants, drive from Düsseldorf south via #] bars, hotels and clubs. the B1 and the A57 to Cologne Crumbling warehouses (fear not: although this section Trier have transformed into mainly travels through built-up high-tech office buildings areas and industrial estates, and now rub shoulders later stages of the drive become with bold new structures much more scenic). designed by celebrated international architects, 2 Cologne including Frank Gehry. A walking tour (see Of course, no visit to p522) is the best way to #\\ Düsseldorf is complete appreciate this engaging without exploring its city (Germany’s fourth-\\# largest) on the Rhine. 480

Ruhr Ruhr #\\#6 Braubach Must-sees include Cologne’s world-famous \\# # /·7\\# f#\\# Is\\#erFloiBlsh42enn 0 \\# Arnsberg 5 km Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathe- 0 2.5 miles dral; %0211-1794 0200; www. Hagen Boppard koelner-dom.de; tower adult/ \\# concession €4/2; h6am-9pm May-Oct, to 7.30pm Nov-Apr, ]# Wuppertal tower 9am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Mar-Apr & Oct, to 4pm Nov- /·#\\ LudenscheiBd9 Feb), whose twin spires dominate the skyline, as /·B42 well as superb museums Rhein such as the Römisch- geBig St Goarshausen #St Goar Lahn#\\ Germanisches Museum (Roman Germanic Museum; 8\\# #f %0221-2212 4438; www. ·/ H# /·A61 #\\ Olpe p483 B42 museenkoeln.de; Roncalliplatz GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine Gummersbach #\\ 4; adult/concession €9/5; ##Lorelei Sculpture 10 \\#9 Loreley h10am-5pm Tue-Sun); sculp- ·/A4 ·/#\\ KreuzBt9al tures and ruins displayed outside its entrance are ·/#\\ the overture to its sym- phony of Roman artefacts Oberwesel B42 found along the Rhine. #f Kaub The Drive » Drive south B9 1\\#1 ·/##\\ Siegen along the B51 along the Rhine’s western bank before joining the #\\ Sieg #Bacharach 1\\#2 A555 to bring you into Bonn (29km all-up). ##\\4 Remagen /·B9 Neuwied \\# #]#5 Koblenz Limburg \\# /·A48 /·B42 ·/B42 Braubach \\# See #\\ Enlargement Boppard \\# #\\ Filsen St Goarshausen LINK YOUR St Goar \\##\\ ^# Oberwesel \\#\\# Loreley Kaub Wiesbaden Bacharach \\# TRIP #\\ ]# ·/ #Rüdesheim ¸0#A643 Main 0¸B327 B9 13 1]#4 { German Fairy Tale Mainz Road /·E50 Bing#\\e#fn#\\ ‚ mK 42 km Get on the trail of the to Bro#]thers Grimm 65km west FG36 of Mainz in Hanau. Bad 120 km to Kreuznach #\\ z The Romantic GF35 Road Nahe This ribbon of historical \\# Idar- ·/A63 quaintness starts at Oberstein Würzburg, two hours (154km) west from Mainz. e# Rhein 0 40 km 0 20 miles Kaiserslautern /·A6 Ludwigshafen #] am Rhein ]# 481

GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine 3 Bonn CROSSING THE RHINE In a beautiful river- No bridges span the Rhine between Koblenz and side setting, Ludwig Mainz; the only way to cross the river along this van Beethoven’s home stretch is by Autofähre (car ferry). Prices vary town warrants a stop slightly but you can figure on paying about €4.20 per to visit the Beethoven- car, including driver; €1.20 per car passenger; €1.30 Haus Bonn (%0228-981 per pedestrian (€0.80 for a child); and €2.50 for a 7525; www.beethoven-haus- bicycle, including the rider. bonn.de; Bonngasse 24-26; adult/concession €6/4.50; Bingen–Rüdesheimer (www.bingen-ruedesheimer.com; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am- h5.30am-9.45pm Sun-Thu & 5.30am-12.50am Fri & Sat May- 5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Oct, 5.30am-9.45pm Nov-Apr) Nov-Mar), where the great composer was born in Boppard–Filsen (www.faehre-boppard.de; h6.30am- 1770. Other landmarks 10pm Jun-Aug, 6.30am-9pm Apr, May & Sep, 6.30am-8pm include the soaring Mün- Oct-Mar) ster Basilica (%0228-985 880; www.bonner-muenster.de; Niederheimbach–Lorch (www.mittelrhein-faehre.de; Münsterplatz; h7am-7pm), h6am-7.50pm Apr-Oct, 6am-6.50pm Nov-Mar) built on the graves of the two martyred Roman sol- Oberwesel–Kaub (www.faehre-kaub.de; h6am-8pm diers who later became Mon-Sat & 8am-8pm Sun Apr-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Sat & 8am- the city’s patron saints. 7pm Sun Oct-Mar) Bonn’s old government St Goar–St Goarshausen (www.faehre-loreley.de; quarter dates from its time h5.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6.30am-midnight Sun) as West Germany’s ‘tempo- rary’ capital, between 1949 4 Remagen towers now houses the and 1991 (when a reunited Friedensmuseum (Peace German government de- Remagen was founded by Museum; %218 63; www. cided to move to Berlin). the Romans in AD 16 as bruecke-remagen.de; adult/child For a romp through recent Rigomagus, but the town €3.50/1; h10am-5pm early German history from would hardly figure in the Mar-mid-Nov, to 6pm May-Oct), the end of WWII, pop by history books were it not with a well-presented ex- the Haus der Geschichte for one fateful day in early hibit on Remagen’s pivotal March 1945. As the Allies role in WWII. der Bundesrepublik raced across France and Deutschland (Museum of Belgium to rid Germany The Drive » Take the B9 History; %0228-916 50; www. of Nazism, the Wehrmacht hdg.de; Willy-Brandt-Allee 14; tried frantically to stave southeast for 49km. The Rhine h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm off defeat by destroying all winds back and forth away from Sat & Sun). bridges across the Rhine. the road until you come to the city of Koblenz. Stay on the B9 The Drive » From Bonn, take But the Brücke von until you’ve crossed the Moselle Remagen (the steel rail River to the town centre, or the B9 southeast for 24km to bridge at Remagen) lasted risk getting lost in a maze of Remagen. When you leave the long enough for Allied concentric flyovers. German state of North Rhine- troops to cross the river, Westphalia and enter Rhineland- contributing significantly 5 Koblenz Palatinate the road returns to to the collapse of Hitler’s the river’s western bank; on western front. One of the Koblenz sits at the conflu- your right-hand side, you’ll see bridge’s surviving basalt ence of the Rhine and the hilly wildlife park Wildpark Moselle Rivers – marked by Rolandseck. the expansive Deutsches 482

Eck (German Corner), ad- sible by car, on foot and 6 Braubach GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine joining flower-filled parks by cable car. and promenades – and Framed by forest, vine- the convergence of three Inside Koblenz’ strik- yards and rose gardens, low mountain ranges (the ing new glass Forum the 1300-year-old town Hunsrück, the Eifel and Confluentes, exhibits at of Braubach centres on the Westerwald). Its roots the Mittelrhein-Museum its small, half-timbered date back to the Romans, (www.mittelrhein-museum. Marktplatz. who founded a military de; Zentralplatz 1; adult/child stronghold (Confluentes) €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) High above Braubach here because of the site’s span 2000 years of the are the dramatic towers, supreme strategic value. region’s history, including turrets and crenellations 19th-century landscape of the 700-year-old On the Rhine’s paintings of the Romantic Marksburg (www.marksburg. right bank, the 118m- Rhine by German and de; adult/child €64; h10am- high fortress Festung British artists. Ehrenbreitstein (www. 5pm mid-Mar–Oct, 11am-4pm diefestungehrenbreitstein.de; 4 p489 Nov–mid-Mar), which is unique among the Rhine’s adult/child €6/3, incl cable car The Drive » Take the B49 fastnesses as it was never destroyed. The compul- €11.80/5.60; h10am-6pm across the Rhine to its eastern sory tour takes in the bank and travel south on the citadel, the Gothic hall Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) B42; it’s 13km to Braubach. At and a grisly torture cham- proved indestructible to this point of the drive, you leave ber. English tours depart all but Napoleonic troops, the cityscapes behind and enter at 1pm and 4pm from late who levelled it in 1801. an older world of cobblestones, March to October. To prove a point, the half-timbered villages, densely Prussians rebuilt it as forested hillsides and ancient one of Europe’s mightiest vineyards. fortifications. It’s acces- DETOUR: OBERWESEL Start: 8 St Goar (p486) It’s a quick 7.8km south from St Goar along the B9 to the village of Oberwesel. Every April, Oberwesel crowns not a Weinkönigin (wine queen), as in most Rhine towns, but a Weinhexe (wine witch) – a good witch, of course – who is said to protect the vineyards. Photos of all the Weinhexen crowned since 1946 are displayed in the cellar of Oberwesel’s Kulturhaus (www.kulturhaus-oberwesel.de; Rathausstrasse 23; adult/child €3/1; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct), along with 19th-century engravings of the Romantic Rhine and models of Rhine riverboats. Hidden sky-high up a vineyard-striped hillside, the flagstone terrace of Günderode Haus (www.guenderodefilmhaus.de; Siebenjungfrauenblick; h11am-6pm Sat- Thu, to 8pm Fri Apr-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Mar) is an incredible spot for a glass of wine, beer or brandy, with sweeping views over the Rhine. The adjacent 200-year-old half-timbered house was used as a film set for Heimat 3 (2004), and now has a cinema room and hosts live music and literary events, as well as wine tastings. From Oberwesel, take the K93 east for 600m, turn right (north) onto the K95; after 1km, the car park’s on your right. 483

WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES © LORELEI STATUE BY NATASCHA ALEXANDROVA / DEA / W. BUSS / CONTRIBUTOR/ GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP CATHERINE LE NEVEZ, AUTHOR The romance along this stretch of the Rhine is timeless. Poets and painters including Lord Byron and William Turner are among those who have been inspired by this castle-crowned, forest-and-vineyard- cloaked valley. A fabled stop on the original European Grand Tour, the riverscape here is now a designated Unesco World Heritage site. It doesn’t get more classic than that. Top: The Rhine and the town of Boppard on the bend Left: Natascha Alexandrova’s Lorelei sculpture Right: Cologne’s Kölner Dom illuminated at dusk

GERMANY 34 Romantic RhineThe Drive » Hug the eastern ALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES © bank of the Rhine for 11km as it curves around to the car-ferry dock at Filsen. It’s a five-minute crossing to charming Boppard. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 7 Boppard Idyllically located on a horseshoe bend in the river, Boppard (pro- nounced ‘bo-part’) is one of the Romantic Rhine’s prettiest towns, not least because its riverfront and historic centre are both on the same side of the railway tracks. Boppard’s riverfront promenade, the Rhein- allee, has grassy areas for picnicking and a children’s playground. Many of the town’s half-timbered buildings house cosy wine taverns, including its oldest, Weinhaus Heilig Grab (www.heiliggrab.de; Zelkesgasse 12; h3pm-midnight Wed-Mon). In summer you can sip local rieslings under the chestnut trees, where live music plays on weekends. Fantastic hiking trails fan out into the coun- tryside, including the Hunsrück Trails, accessed by Germany’s steepest scheduled railway route, the Hunsrückbahn (adult/ child one-way €2.90/1.75; hhourly 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar). Around the Vierseenblick (Four-Lakes- View), a panoramic outlook reached by Sesselbahn (chair lift; http://sesselbahn- boppard.de; adult/child return €7.50/4.50, one-way €4.80/3; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) creates 485

GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine the illusion that you’re CAT & MOUSE looking at four separate lakes rather than a single Two rival castles stand either side of the village of river. St Goarshausen. Burg Peterseck was built by the archbishop of Trier to counter the toll practices The Drive » Take the B9 of the powerful Katzenelnbogen family. The latter responded by building a much bigger castle high on south from Boppard for 15km, the other side of town, Burg Neukatzenelnbogen, passing Burg Maus across the which was dubbed Burg Katz, meaning ‘Cat Castle’. river on the eastern bank near Highlighting the obvious imbalance of power the village of Wellmich. Shortly between the Katzenelnbogens and the archbishop, afterwards, you’ll spot Burg Burg Peterseck was soon nicknamed Burg Maus Rheinfels on the western bank (Mouse Castle). Both are closed to the public. above St Goar. 9 Loreley of the Loreley outcrop 8 St Goar 190m above the river. The most storied spot Lording over the vil- along the Romantic Rhine, The Drive » Return to the lage of St Goar are the Loreley is an enormous, sprawling ruins of Burg almost vertical slab of B42 at the bottom of the hill; on Rheinfels (www.st-goar. slate that owes its fame to your left, you’ll see Burg Katz. de; adult/child €5/2.50; a mythical maiden whose Travel south for 2km to the car h9am-6pm mid-Mar–late Oct, siren songs are said to park by the breakwater for the 11am-5pm late Oct–mid-Nov), have lured sailors to their next stop, the Lorelei Sculpture. at one time the mightiest death in the river’s treach- fortress on the Rhine. erous currents. Heinrich a Lorelei Sculpture Built in 1245 by Count Heine told the tale in his Dieter von Katzeneln- 1824 poem Die Lorelei. At the tip of a narrow bogen as a base for his breakwater jutting into toll-collecting operations, On the edge of the the Rhine, a bronze its size and labyrinthine plateau 4km southeast sculpture of Loreley’s layout are astonishing. of the village of St Goar- famous maiden perches Kids (and adults) will shausen, visitor centre lasciviously atop a rocky love exploring the sub- platform. From the terranean tunnels and Loreley Besucherzen- car park, you can walk galleries (bring a torch). trum (%06771-599 093; the 600m out to the From St Goar’s northern www.loreley-besucherzentrum. sculpture, from where edge, follow the Schloss- de; Loreleyring 7; adult/ there are fantastic views berg road to the castle. child €2.50/1.50, parking of both riverbanks, but €2; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, be aware that the rough 5 4 p489 10am-5pm Mar, 11am-4pm Sat path is made from jag- The Drive » At St Goar, & Sun Nov-Feb) covers the ged slate (wear sturdy Loreley myth and local shoes!) and the gentler take the five-minute car ferry flora, fauna, shipping and sandy lower path is often across to the little village of winemaking traditions. underwater. St Goarshausen. From St A 300m gravel path leads Goarshausen’s Marktplatz, follow to a viewpoint at the tip The Drive » Leaving the car the L338 as it twists steeply uphill through thick forest for park, take the B42 south for 1.2km and turn right onto the 8km to the little village of Kaub, K89 for 2.5km to reach Loreley. and park next to the ferry dock. 486

b Kaub toll. The island makes for arched gateways under GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine a fabulous picnic spot. the train tracks and you’ll Kaub is the gateway to find yourself in a medieval one of the river’s iconic Alongside Kaub’s car old town filled with half- sights. Like something out ferry dock you can hop on timbered mansions. of a fairy tale, 1326-built, a little Fährboot (propelled boat-shaped toll castle boat; adult/child €2.50/1; It’s possible to walk Pfalzgrafstein (www.burg- hevery 30min 10am-6pm almost all the way around pfalzgrafenstein.de; adult/child Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mar, the centre on top of the 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov, Jan walls. The lookout tower €3/2; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun & Feb, closed Dec) passenger on the upper section of the ferry (it only runs from wall affords panoramic Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mar, 10am- this side of the river). views. 5pm Sat & Sun Nov, Jan & Feb, The Drive » From Kaub, Dating from 1421, closed Dec), with distinctive white-painted walls, red take the car ferry across to the Zum Grünen Baum trim, and slate turrets, Rhine’s western bank and head (www.weingut-bastian- perches on a narrow south on the B9 for 3km to bacharach.de; Oberstrasse island in the middle of the Bacharach. 63; hnoon-midnight Apr-Oct, Rhine. A once-dangerous reduced hours Nov-Mar) rapid here (since modi- c Bacharach serves some of Bacha- fied) forced boats to use rach’s best whites in the right-hand side of the Tiny Bacharach conceals rustic surrounds. Its river, where a chain forced its considerable charms nearby Vinothèque (www. ships to stop and pay a behind a 14th-century weingut-bastian-bacharach.de/ wall. Enter one of the thick vinothek; Koblenzer Strasse 1; CRUISING THE RHINE If you’d like to let someone else drive for a while and get a different perspective of the Rhine, it’s easy to park up and hop on a cruise boat. From about Easter to October (winter services are very limited), passenger ships run by KD (Köln-Düsseldorfer; %0221-208 8318; www.k-d.com) link Rhine villages on a set timetable: »»You can travel to the next village or all the way between Mainz and Koblenz (one- way/return €50/55, downstream Mainz to Koblenz/upstream Koblenz to Mainz 5½/eight hours). »»Within the segment you’ve paid for (for example, Boppard–Rüdesheim, which costs €25.40/26.80 one-way/return), you can get on and off as often as you like, but make sure to ask for a free stopover ticket each time you disembark. »»Children up to the age of four travel free, while those up to age 13 are charged a flat fee of €6 regardless of distance. »»Return tickets usually cost only slightly more than one-way. »»To bring along a bicycle, there’s a supplement of €2.80. Several smaller companies also send passenger boats up and down the river: Bingen-Rüdesheimer (www.bingen-ruedesheimer.com) Hebel Linie (www.hebel-linie.de) Loreley Linie (www.loreley-linie.com) Rössler Linie (www.roesslerlinie.de) 487

GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine h3-5pm Mon-Fri & 11am-6pm Prussian victory in the or vine-draped Weingut Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 3-5pm Mon- Franco-Prussian War and Michel (www.michel-wein.de; Fri Nov-Mar), by contrast, the creation of the Ger- Jakobsbergstrasse 8; h4pm- is state of the art. Owner man Reich, both in 1871. midnight), Mainz’ only Wein- Friedrich Bastian is a To save climbing 203 ver- gut (winery) to exclusively renowned opera singer, tical metres, glide above serve its own wines. so music (and culinary) the vineyards aboard the events take place year- 1400m-long Seilbahn Highlights you won’t round, including on Bas- (Kabinenbahn; www.seilbahn- want to miss include the tian’s private river island ruedesheim.de; Oberstrasse 37; fabulous Mainzer Dom with its own vineyard. adult/child one-way €5/2.50, (%06131-253 412; www. return €7/3.50, with Sesselbahn mainz-dom.de; Markt 10; 4 p489 €8/4; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm The Drive » Head south to 6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, Sat, 12.45-3pm & 4-6.30pm 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sun, shorter hours Nov-Feb), on the B9, passing Burg Sat & Sun Apr & Oct) cable the ethereal windows of Reichenstein, then Burg car. A network of hiking Chagall in St-Stephan- Rheinstein, on your right. Then, trails extends from the Kirche (www.st-stephan-mainz. on your left, in the river itself, monument. de; Kleine Weissgasse 12; you’ll pass the Mäuseturm, a h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon- fortified tower used as a signal 4 p489 5pm Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-4.30pm station until 1974. Drive through Mon-Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun Nov- the busy working town of Bingen The Drive » From Rüdesheim, Feb), and the first printed to the car-ferry dock at its Bible in the Gutenberg- eastern edge, and cross the river head east on the B42 for 23km Museum Mainz (www. to Rüdesheim. and turn south on the A643 to gutenberg-museum.de; Lieb- cross the bridge over the Rhine. frauenplatz 5; adult/child €5/2; TRIP HIGHLIGHT From here it’s 13km southeast to h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm the centre of Mainz. Sun). This museum com- d Rüdesheim memorates native son TRIP HIGHLIGHT Johannes Gutenberg who Depending on how you ushered in the informa- look at it, Rüdesheim’s e Mainz tion age here in the 15th town centre – and especial- century by perfecting ly its most famous feature, The Rhine River meets movable type. the tunnel-like medieval the Main at lively Mainz, alley Drosselgasse – is which has a sizeable Also well worth a visit is either a touristy nightmare university, pretty pedes- the dungeon-like, brilliant- or a lot of kitschy, colour- trian precincts and a ly illuminated Roman ar- ful fun. But there’s also savoir vivre dating from chaeological site Heiligtum wonderful walking in the Napoleon’s occupation greater area, which is part (1797–1814). der Isis und Mater Magna of the Rheingau wine re- (www.isis-mainz.de; Römer gion, famed for its superior Strolling along the Passage 1; admission by donation; rieslings. Rhine and sampling local h10am-6pm Mon-Sat). The wines in an Altstadt easy-to-miss entrance is on For a stunning Rhine tavern are as much a the Römer Passage mall’s panorama, head up the part of any Mainz visit as ground floor just inside the wine-producing slopes viewing the sights. Try the western entrance. west of Rüdesheim to the 1791 Weinstube Hottum Niederwald Monument. (Grebenstrasse 3; h4pm- 5 p489 Erected between 1877 midnight), serving wines and 1883, this bombastic purely from the Rheingau monument celebrates the and Rheinhessen regions, 488

Eating & Sleeping Koblenz 5 Bacharach c 4 Hotel Stein Boutique Hotel €€ 4 Rhein Hotel Hotel €€ (%0261-963 530; www.hotel-stein.de; (%06743-1243; www.rhein-hotel-bacharach.de; Mayener Strasse 126; s/d from €85/110; pW) Langstrasse 50; s €39-68, d €78-136; paW) Decorated in zesty colours such as tangerine Right on the town’s medieval ramparts, this contrasted with dark timbers, Stein’s 30 welcoming family-run hotel has 14 well-lit rooms GERMANY 34 Romantic Rhine contemporary rooms are all soundproofed for with original artwork. Rooms facing the river, a peaceful night’s sleep. The hotel is situated and so the train tracks, have double-glazing. across the Moselle River 2km north of Koblenz’ Guests can borrow bikes for free. Its Stübers city centre but you won’t need to leave to dine: Restaurant (%06743-1243; Langstrasse 50; mains €17-23; h11.30am-2.15pm & 5.30-9.15pm its superb gourmet restaurant Schiller’s utilises premium ingredients like white aspargus, Wed-Mon; v) is top-notch. scampi, foie gras and truffles. St Goar 8 Rüdesheim d 5 Weinhotel Landsknecht German €€ 4 Rüdesheimer Boutique Hotel €€ (%06741-2001; www.hotel-landsknecht.de; Schloss Aussiedlung Landsknecht 4; mains €14-27.50, 4-course dinner menu €42; hnoon-2.30pm & (%06722-905 00; www.ruedesheimer-schloss. 6-9pm Apr-Oct, noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm Wed-Sun Nov, Dec & Mar, closed Jan & Feb) The dining com; Steingasse 10; s €95-115, d €125-155, ste room and terrace at this wonderful spot 1.5km north of St Goar feel like being aboard a cruise €155-165; pW) Truly good places to sleep boat, with close-up, uninterrupted river views. Sensational home cooking spans pickled and eat are thin on the ground in Rüdesheim, salmon with quince mousse to schnitzel with mushroom and riesling sauce, and red-wine- but this 18th-century building has 26 stunning marinated plums with rosemary-and-vanilla ice cream. Many of its rooms (doubles from €90) contemporary rooms designed by local and also have Rhine views. regional artists. Its restaurant is excellent, 4 Romantik Hotel serving dishes such as cheese and riesling soup, Schloss Rheinfels Historic Hotel €€€ (%06741-8020; www.schloss-rheinfels.de; s/d veal liver with truffled mash, and roast duck weekday from €95/130, weekend €110/140; piWs) Part of the Burg Rheinfels (p486) stuffed with dates and figs, with a live pianist castle complex is occupied by a romantic hotel with 64 rooms and suites that range in size and after-dinner dancing. from tiny to palatial. All have antique-style furnishings; pricier rooms come with a river Mainz e view. The hotel has three fine restaurants: one rustic, one semiformal and one gourmet. 5 Zur Kanzel German, French €€€ (%06131-237 137; www.zurkanzel.de; Grebenstrasse 4; mains €8-23.50; hkitchen 5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm & 6-11pm Sat) Germany meets France at this dark-timber-panelled Weinstube (wine bar) in dishes such as grilled tuna with riesling and sage sauce, garlic-crusted rack of lamb with wilted spinach, schnitzel with Frankfurt-style Grüne Sosse (green sauce) and rump steak with herb butter, as well as garlic snails. All ingredients are fresh, so the menu evolves with the seasons; there’s a lovely summer courtyard. Cash only. 489

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MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES © The Romantic 35Road On this trip you’ll experience the Germany of the bedtime story- book – medieval walled towns, gabled townhouses, cobbled squares and crooked streets, all preserved as if time has come to a standstill. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 10 DAYS 350 KM / 218 MILES 0 km Ll##1 Würzburg GREAT FOR… One of Germany's #4# finest baroque ##5 BG palaces is here # Nördlingen BEST TIME TO GO 99 km Rothenburg ob der Any time of year. Tauber Wander the streets of I ESSENTIAL this medieval marvel PHOTO 149 km Augsburg # The half-timbered Dinkelsbühl buildings of The Romantic Road's Rothenburg ob der quaintest town Tauber’s Plönlein. 350 km # Schongau K BEST TWO DAYS Neuschwanstein & mK##14 Hohenschwangau Castles The stretch between Two of Germany's stops 4 and 6 takes finest castles in the most romantic towns of the Romantic Road. Dinkelsbühl Gabled houses 491

Main FG‚ 35 km to 36 FG85 km to 34 /·A3 #] 35 The Romantic ·/Tauberbischofsheim B81 Road ##\\2 From the vineyards of Würzburg to the foot of the #\\#3 Alps, the Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse) is by far the most popular of Germany’s touring routes. ·/A81 This well-trodden trail cuts through a cultural and historical cross-section of southern Germany, coming #\\ Burg to a climax at the gates of King Ludwig II’s crazy Guttenberg castles. The route links some of Germany’s most picturesque towns, many appearing untouched since #\\ \\# medieval times. Heilbronn Schwäbisch Hall \\# Backnang \\# Ludwigsburg Schwäbisch Stuttgart ·/ Gmund ^# B29 \\# Göppingen #\\ TRIP HIGHLIGHT 45 min English tours 11am & 3pm, \\# 1 Würzburg also 4.30pm Apr-Oct), a vast Reutlingen Unesco-listed palace, built This scenic town in by 18th-century architect ¸0B311 Bavaria’s northeast corner Balthasar Neumann as straddles the Main River the home of the local Donau and is renowned for its prince-bishops. It’s one of #\\ art, architecture and Germany’s most important Pfullendorf Ach delicate wines. A large and beautiful baroque \\# Bad student population keeps palaces. The wonderful things lively and plenty zigzagging Treppenhaus Waldsee #\\ of hip nightlife pulsates (Staircase) is capped by through its cobbled what is still the world’s Weingarten streets. largest fresco, a master- #\\ piece by Giovanni Battista Ravensburg \\# Top billing here goes to Tiepolo depicting allegories the Würzburg Residenz of the four then-known Meersburg (www.residenz-wuerzburg.de; continents (Europe, Africa, Balthasar-Neumann-Promenade; America and Asia). The ·/#\\ 31 Friedrichshafen adult/concession/under 18yrs recently renovated Dom St €7.50/6.50/free; h9am-6pm Kilian (www.dom-wuerzburg. #\\ \\# Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Mar, de; Domstrasse 40; h8am-7pm Konstanz Arbon ConLsatkaencLeinda\\#u \\# Bregenz ^# SWITZERLAND 492 /·A1 \\# St Gallen

Main e# 0 40 km #\\ 0 20 miles Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) is a Würzburg /·A3 highly unusual cathedral with a Romanesque core Ll#]#1 and the baroque Schön- bornkapelle by Balthasar /·A73 Neumann. /·A7 \\# Erlangen 5 4 p502 ·/A9 The Drive » The 37km Weikersheim Fürth #\\ Nuremberg between Würzburg and the next stop, Tauberbischofsheim, is ##\\3 Rothenburg ]# best tackled in the following GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road way: from the centre of 0¸L1040 #\\#4 ob der Tauber Schwabach Würzburg take the B19 south Ansbach until it joins the A3 motorway; #\\ \\# follow this until the junction with the B81, which goes all the way E50 ·/E45 to Tauberbischofsheim. /· ·/A7 Altmuhl 2 Tauberbischofsheim \\# Gunzenhausen The main town of the pretty Tauber Valley, this ##\\5 Dinkelsbühl Weissenburg #\\ small settlement has a picturesque marketplace \\# Aalen ·/B25 Eichstätt & dominated by a neo- the Altmühltal Gothic town hall and Nördlingen Nature Park lined with typical half- timbered houses. Follow #6#\\ H# # the remains of the medieval town walls p498 LINK \\# #Harburg #\\7 YOUR TRIP Lech#8#\\Donau Donau {^# German Fairy Tale Donauwörth Road Dona /·B2 Do one of the trips in u reverse: the start of the Ulm #\\ ·/A8 Verlorener Bach Grimm Brothers' Fairy Tale #Augsburg ]#9 Road is about an hour east /·A7 ·/B17 from Würzburg. ·/A96 Ammersee y\\# Romantic Rhine #\\#10 Landsberg Würzburg is two \\# Memmingen am Lech hours (154km) from Mainz, at the end of this castle- /·#\\ Leutkirch A7 Kaufbeuren ·/B17 Wurmsee lined riverside jaunt. #\\ Weilheim 493 Marktoberdorf # #\\ 1\\#1 Schongau ·/A96 #\\ Kempten\\# /· #B171\\#2 Wieskirche Staffelsee /·Mittlerer Bannwaldsee ##KmInselsee Füssen 1\\#3 A95 14 Alpsee \\# Garmisch- Neuschwanstein & Partenkirchen Ling#\\enau Hohenschwangau Z(2u9g6s3pmitz)eMi#\\ttenwald #\\ Castles R AUSTRIA

GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road to the Kurmainzisches MUSEUM OF THE BAVARIAN Schloss, which now hous- KINGS es the Tauberfränkisches Landschaftsmuseum Palace-fatigued visitors often head straight for (Schlossplatz; admission the bus stop, coach park or nearest beer after a €2; h2-4.30pm Tue-Sat, tour of the castles, most overlooking the area’s 10am-noon & 2-4.30pm Sun third attraction, the worthwhile Museum der Easter-Oct), where you can Bayerischen Könige (Museum of the Bavarian Kings; learn more about Tauber- www.museumderbayerischenkoenige.de; Alpseestrasse bischofsheim’s past. 27; adult/concession €9.50/8; h10am-6pm), installed in a former lakeside hotel 400m from the castle The Drive » The 34km dash ticket office (heading towards Alpsee Lake). The big-window views across the beautiful lake (a great from Tauberbischofsheim to picnic spot) to the Alps are almost as amazing as Weikersheim passes through the Wittelsbach bling on show, including Ludwig Lauda-Königshofen, a pretty II’s famous blue-and-gold robe. The architecturally stop in the Tauber Valley. stunning museum is packed with historical background on Bavaria’s first family and is well worth 3 Weikersheim the extra legwork. A detailed audioguide is included in the ticket price. Top billing in under- visited Weikersheim is follows minor country roads all half-timbered house you Schloss Weikersheim the way, with the route passing are ever likely to see. (www.schloss-weikersheim.de; through a rolling patchwork of Marktplatz 11; adult/conces- fields. You could also detour via Hidden down a little al- sion €6.50/3.30; h9am-6pm Creglingen, a minor stop on the ley is the Alt-Rothenburger Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 1-5pm Romantic Road. Handwerkerhaus (Alter Nov-Mar), the finest palace Stadtgraben 26; adult/conces- on the entire Romantic TRIP HIGHLIGHT sion €3/2.50; h11am-5pm Road. Renaissance to the Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun core, it’s surrounded by 4 Rothenburg ob Easter-Oct, 2-4pm daily Dec), beautiful formal gardens der Tauber where numerous artisans – inspired by Versailles. including coopers, weavers, Highlights include the A well-preserved histori- cobblers and potters – have enormous Knights Hall cal town, Rothenburg ob their workshops today, dating from around 1600 der Tauber is the most and mostly have had for and over 40m long. The popular stop on the Ro- the house’s 700-plus-years rich decor here includes a mantic Road. But when existence. It’s half museum, huge painted ceiling, each you’re finished with the half active workplace and panel depicting a hunting main sights, there are you can easily spend an scene, and the amaz- a couple of less obvious hour or so watching the ingly ornate fireplace. attractions here. craftsmen at work. The unforgettable rococo mirror cabinet, with its You’ll often see the 5 p502 gilt-and-red decor, is also Plönlein on the covers part of the guided tour, of brochures and tourist The Drive » The quickest after which you can wan- bumf, a gathering of der the elegantly laid-out forks in the cobbled road and simplest way between gardens. (Obere Schmiedgasse) Rothenburg ob der Tauber and occupied by possibly the Dinkelsbühl is along the A7 The Drive » The short 28km quaintest, most crooked motorway (50km). For a gentler, but slower and longer experience, journey between Weikersheim follow the official Romantic Road and Rothenburg ob der Tauber 494

route, which tacks along country ROTHENBURG’S SNOWBALLS GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road roads via Schillingsfürst, another quaint halt. Where is it possible to get your hands on a snowball in July? Why, in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, of course! TRIP HIGHLIGHT The town’s speciality are Schneeballen (snowballs), ribbons of dough loosely shaped into balls, deep- 5 Dinkelsbühl fried then coated in icing sugar, chocolate and other dentist’s foes. Some 24 types are produced at Diller’s Immaculately preserved Schneeballen (Hofbronnengasse 16; h10am-6pm); a Dinkelsbühl is argu- more limited range can be enjoyed all over town. ably the Romantic Road’s quaintest and most and has been declared the railway station is authentically medieval a special ‘geopark’. a retirement home for halt. Just like Rothenburg Nördlingen’s 14th-century locos that have puffed it is ringed by medieval walls, all original, mimic their last. The museum walls, which boast 18 tow- the crater’s rim and are runs steam trains up to ers and four gates. The joy almost perfectly circular. Dinkelsbühl, Feuchtwan- of Dinkelsbühl is aimless The Rieskrater Museum gen and Gunzenhausen wandering through the (Eugene-Shoemaker-Platz 1; several times a year; see crooked lanes, but for a the website for details. lowdown on the town’s adult/concession €4.50/2.50, history visit the Haus der 5 4 p503 Geschichte (Altrathausplatz ticket also valid for Stadtmuse- The Drive » The 19km drive 14; adult/child €4/2; h9am- 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & um; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, from Nördlingen to Harburg Sun May-Oct, 10am-5pm daily is a simple affair along the Nov-Apr), in the same build- closed noon-1.30pm Nov-Apr) arrow-straight B25 all the way. ing as the tourist office. tells the story. Next door The road crosses the flatlands is the Stadtmuseum created by the Ries meteorite, 5 4 p502 (Vordere Gerbergasse 1; adult/ now fertile agricultural land. The Drive » Just 32km concession €4.50/2.50, ticket 7 Harburg separate Dinkelsbühl from Nördlingen along the B25; also valid for Rieskrater Museum; Looming over the Wör- drivers are accompanied by nitz River, the medieval the Wörnitz River for the first h1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun Mar- covered parapets, towers, part of the journey. Just a few early Nov), which gives an turrets, keep and red-tiled kilometres short of Nördlingen is interesting rundown of roofs of the 12th-century Wallerstein, a small market town Nördlingen’s story so far. Schloss Harburg (www. with the beautiful parish church burg-harburg.de; adult/child of St Alban, also a Romantic On a completely differ- €5/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Road stop. ent note, the Bayerisches mid-Mar–Oct) are so perfectly Eisenbahnmuseum (www. 6 Nördlingen bayerisches-eisenbahn Charmingly medieval, museum.de; Am Hohen Weg 6a; Nördlingen lies within the Ries Basin, a massive adult/child €6/3; hnoon- impact crater gouged out by a meteorite more than 4pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm 15 million years ago. The crater – some 25km in Sun May-Sep, noon-4pm Sat, diameter – is one of the 10am-5pm Sun Oct-Mar) near best preserved on earth, WILLY WONKA’S NÖRDLINGEN If you’ve seen the 1970s movie Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory, you’ve already looked down upon Nördlingen, from a glass elevator – aerial shots of the town were used in the final sequences of the film. 495

RAINER MIRAU / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES © TOMEKD76 / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP MARC DI DUCA, AUTHOR This 350km-long ribbon of historical quaintness is the Germany you came to see, but things can get crowded in the summer months, taking away a bit of the romance. Do the trip in winter when Bavaria’s chocolate-box towns look even prettier under a layer of snow. Top: The Main River in Würzburg with a fortress on the hilltop Left: Schneeballen (snowballs), a traditional cake in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Right: Franconia Fountain in front of Würzburg Residenz

GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road preserved they almost seem like part of a film set. © BAYERISCHE SCHLÖSSERVERWALTUNG WWW.SCHLOESSER.BAYERN.DE / SOO HON KEONG / GETTY IMAGES ©Tours tell the Schloss’ long tale and evoke the ghosts that are said to use the castle as a hang-out. From the castle, the walk to Harburg’s cute, half-timbered Altstadt (old town) takes around 10 minutes, slightly more the other way as you’re heading uphill. A fabulous panorama of the village and castle can be admired from the 1702 stone bridge spanning the Wörnitz. The Drive » A mere 12km separate tiny Harburg with its bigger neighbour Donauwörth. The route follows the B25 all the way across undulating farmland. 8 Donauwörth Sitting pretty at the confluence of the Danube and Wörnitz Rivers, the small town of Donau- wörth had its heyday as a Free Imperial City in the 14th century. WWII destroyed 75% of the medieval old town but three gates and five town-wall towers still guard it today. The main street is Reichstrasse, which is where you’ll discover the Lieb- fraukirche (Reichstrasse), a 15th-century Gothic church with original frescos and a curiously sloping floor that drops 120cm. Swabia’s largest church bell (6550kg) swings in the belfry. The other major attraction in 497

GERMANY 35 The Romantic Road town is the Käthe-Kruse- city of spires and cobbles hnoon-5pm Mon, 10am- Puppenmuseum (www. is an engaging stop, 12.30pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am- kaethe-kruse.de; Pflegstrasse though one with a less 12.30pm & 3-4pm Sun). The 21a; adult/child €2.50/1.50; quaint atmosphere than birthplace of the poet and h11am-6pm Tue-Sun May- others along the route. playwright Bertolt Brecht Sep, 2-5pm Thu-Sun Oct-Apr). is now a museum called In a former monastery, Augsburg’s top sight is the Bertolt-Brecht-Haus it’s a nostalgia-inducing the Fuggerei (www.fugger. (%0821-324 2779; Auf dem Rain place full of old dolls and de; Jakober Strasse; adult/ 7; adult/concession €2.50/2; dollhouses from world- h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). renowned designer Käthe concession €4/3; h8am-8pm Kruse (1883–1968). Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Mar), 5 4 p503 Europe’s oldest Catho- The Drive » The quickest lic welfare settlement, The Drive » The 41km drive founded by banker and way between Donauwörth and merchant Jakob Fugger in from Augsburg to Landsberg am the next stop in Augsburg 47km 1521. Around 200 people Lech is a simple affair along the away is via the B2 and the A8 inhabit the complex to- B17. The route mostly follows the motorway. The scenic route via day; see how the residents valley of the Lech River, which backroads east of the A8 passes of yesterday lived by visit- links the two towns. Look out for close to the pretty town of ing the Fuggereimuseum signs to the amusingly named Rain, another minor halt on the (Mittlere Gasse 14; admission town of Kissing! Romantic Road. incl with entry to the Fuggerei; a Landsberg am 9 Augsburg Lech h9am-8pm Mar-Oct, 9am-6pm Augsburg is the Roman- Nov-Apr). A walled town on the tic Road’s largest city and River Lech, lovely Lands- one of Germany’s oldest, Two famous Germans berg has a less commer- founded by the stepchil- have close associations cial ambience than others dren of Roman emperor with Augsburg. The Prot- on the route. Just like the Augustus over 2000 estant Reformation leader Wieskirche further south, years ago. This attractive Martin Luther stayed here the small baroque Johan- in 1518 – his story is told at the St Anna Kirche (Im Annahof 2, off Annastrasse; DETOUR: EICHSTÄTT & THE ALTMÜHLTAL NATURE PARK Start: 8 Donauwörth (p497) A short 55km off the Romantic Road from Donauwörth lies the town of Eichstätt, the main jumping-off point for the serenely picturesque 2900-sq-km Altmühltal Nature Park, which follows the wooded valley of the Altmühl River. Canoeing the river is a top activity here, as is cycling the same route and camping. The park is an ideal break from the road and a relaxing place to spend a few days in unspoilt natural surroundings. Eichtstätt itself has a wealth of architecture, including the richly adorned medieval Dom (www.bistum-eichstaett.de/dom; Domplatz; h7.15am-7.30pm), with its museum, the baroque Fürstbischöfliche Residenz (Residenzplatz; admission €1; h7.30am-noon Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Mon-Wed, 2-5.30pm Thu), where the local prince-bishops once lived it up, and the Willibaldsburg (%08421-4730; Burgstrasse 19; adult/concession €4.50/3.50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), a 14th-century castle that now houses a couple of museums. 498