Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

ETHAN WELTY / GETTY IMAGES © Northern Spain 29Pilgrimage Travel in the footprints of thousands of pilgrims past and present as you journey along the highroads and backroads of the legendary Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS 678 KM / 423 MILES 154 km GREAT FOR… Santo Domingo de la Calzada BJ Get to know small-town Spain at its BEST TIME TO GO very best April to June for fields 220 km Ll of poppies, September Burgos and October for Pray at the altar of the Roncesvalles golden leaves. Unesco-listed Burgos Cathedral # I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Km##19 ##13 ##8 # ##9 Standing outside the # Puente Cathedral de Santiago la Reina de Compostela. Astorga K BEST FOR Santiago de León CULTURE Compostela León has stunning The magic of Santiago historical architecture Santiago de de Compostela cannot and irresistible energy Compostela but overwhelm 402 km 678 km Camino de Santiago Route marker 399

29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage For over a thousand years pilgrims have marched across the top of Spain on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) to the tomb of St James the Apostle in Santiago de Compostela. Real pilgrims walk, but by driving you’ll enjoy religious treasures, grand cathedrals, big skies and wide open landscapes – and no blisters. e# 0 100 km ATLANTIC 0 50 miles OCEAN O Barqueiro \\# Valdoviño San Avilés Gijón #\\ Cosme #] #] \\# \\# #\\ Navia Villaviciosa Ferrol #] /·Parque Natural Río Navia : \\# : #\\ A Coruña #^ A8 Río PormaGra:do#^Oviedo #\\ Fragas do Eume : \\# Parque Cangas del \\# #\\ Narcea Parq:ue M:ieres Natural Baio Embalse Natural de Redes Betanzos Vilalba de Salime #\\ de Somiedo \\# #\\RibeBiraa::io\\#nap\\#410#]CSVA#^aoPi9gnmPR1^#ot9CpRiíoaoeoíngroTstd\\#oateeMemddvlioaeebñrdoEPeronarctooOrdouemdSre#^eoPLunArusoIgesNSoa#^mC#\\VCSoaeAaaMdsld\\#r#\\rseGiore1tniL8rnulaAaoefdsomRiñ::rEAútdoa6medaes\\#:Eeb\\#BnaPaclrosPoaerodoa#\\ndVf1Sd:7eeiealrPllSnraIBubaafAeniidr1a#\\ebna\\#a6aslrtbnazoPrcodlioíaaneLCl:Ev1aPa4dsAi2Lze5teaad2r\\#Mrrillao1ela5fossigta#\\d1B:::a4eleAn::nsaatv#\\::::oenrg:::teaL#\\e:::1#]Aó36n:::6 mKH# /·Cabo /·# # # # 0¸·/## #/·Fisterra A Guarda \\# Parque #\\ Parque Natural de ·/: : A6 Nacional Montesinho da PeGneedrêas- #^ PORTUGAL #\\ Chaves Bragança

1 Roncesvalles Santa María (admission free; and staff). Also of inter- SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage h9am-8.30pm) houses a est is the cloister, which Long a key stopping much-revered, silver- contains the tomb of King point on the Camino de covered statue of the Vir- Sancho VII (El Fuerte) of Santiago, history hangs gin beneath a modernist- Navarra, the apparently heavily in the air of the looking canopy. There’s 2.25m-tall victor in the monastery complex of also a statue of Santiago Battle of Las Navas de Roncesvalles, where (St James) dressed as a Tolosa, fought against the pilgrims give thanks for a pilgrim (with scallop shell Muslims in 1212. Nearby successful crossing of the Pyrenees. The main event LINK u Historic here is the monastery YOUR Castilla y León complex (www.roncesvalles. TRIP es; adult/child €4.30/2.50; Branch off at Burgos for v Roving La Rioja a captivating tour around h10am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Apr- Wine Region Spain’s inland towns and Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar), villages. which contains a number Take a detour to enjoy of different buildings of wine and gourmet interest. The 13th-century treats on this peaceful Gothic Real Colegiata de countryside circuit departing from Logroño. Bay of Biscay Dax #\\ FRANCE Ribadesella Santander Santoña Bermeo San Irún #\\ Sebastián ^# #] #\\ #\\ Torrelavega ^# Parque #\\ #\\ #\\ ·/\\# Cangas Lanes A8 #\\ Cabárceno ^# Bilbao #] Castro Azpeitia Puerto de Onís Obregón Urdiales #\\ ToRloonsacedseva(I1bl0lae5ñ7semta)1c #Ll#\\ Parque Nacional Parque Llodio #\\ PicosddeeloEsuro#\\pa Natural Beasain #\\ Saja-Besaya Riaño Reinosa \\# /·\\# A1 Puente la Reina #Aguilar ^#2 Pamplona Río Ebro Vitoria #^ 3 Santa #de Campóo María de ·/ # ##\\Guardo 4 #\\ Estella #\\5 Miranda de Ebro ]# Río Arga A67 Viana /· GF #: : : : : Eunate SPAIN AP1 Haro #\\ 31 : 6 Burgos ^#7 : # # ·/: : 8 : Santo #\\ : :: : A1:5 Náje:ra :#\\ Ca:lahorr:a Saha:gún : O:sorno:#\\ L:ogro:ño : : # #12 : : : :Castrojeriz ^#9 Domingo de Arnedo:#\\ : : : # #: : : :11 :10 : la Calzada : : : :Tudel:a : ¸0: Fr:ómis:ta : : : #\\ : : : #\\ : : :::::: :::::: Salas N111 ·/: : : : A62 #\\ Lerma #\\ de los :#\\ : : P:alenc:ia]# Infantes : Tar:azona: : : :#\\M:aga:z ·/A1 : GF30 :: Aranda de :::: #] Soria ::: ^# :: : : Duero Río Duero #\\ #\\: Va:llado:lid Calatañazor :^# : ::: ::: ::: #\\

SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage is the 12th-century Cap- bulls tear through the Calle Cuesta de Santo Domingo illa de Sancti Spiritus. streets at dawn causing 47; adult/student/child €2/1/ chaos as they go (and free, free Sat afternoon & If you need some exer- alcohol-fueled revel- Sun; h9.30am-2pm & 5-7pm cise there’s lots of good lers cause chaos for the Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun), walking around here. remainder of the day – whose highlights include and night), Pamplona huge Roman mosaics. The Drive » It’s basically is a quiet and low-key The Catedral (www.cat- city at any other time of edraldepamplona.com; Calle 47km (one hour) downhill all the year. Animal rights Dormitalería; adult/child €5/3; the way from Roncesvalles to groups oppose bullrun- h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) Pamplona. It’s a pretty drive ning as a cruel tradition is late-medieval Gothic through mountainscapes, and increasing left- with a neoclassical fa- forests and gentle farmland. wing influence in local cade. The cathedral tour The N135 road passes through government has called is a highlight and takes innumerable hamlets and the future of Pamplona’s you up to the top of the villages painted in the red and bullrun into question. bell tower, into the pretty white Basque colours and Pamplona’s history cloisters and a museum centred on old stone churches, stretches back to Roman with religious treasures, many of which are crammed times, and is best traced a Roman-era house and with religious treasures. in the city’s fantastic finishes all surreal with a Museo de Navarra (www. room full of Virgins! 2 Pamplona cfnavarra.es/cultura/museo; 5 4 p412 Renowned across the world for the Sanfer- mines festival, when WHAT IS THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO? The Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) originated as a medieval pilgrimage and ever since people have taken up the challenge of the Camino and walked to Santiago de Compostela. It all began back in the 9th century when a remarkable event occurred in the poor Iberian hinterlands: following a shining star, Pelayo, a religious hermit, unearthed the tomb of the apostle James the Greater (or, in Spanish, Santiago). The news was confirmed by the local bishop, the Asturian king and later the pope. Compostela became the most important destination for Christians after Rome and Jerusalem. Its popularity increased with an 11th-century papal decree granting it Holy Year status: pilgrims could receive a plenary indulgence – a full remission of your life’s sins – during a Holy Year. These occur when Santiago’s feast day (25 July) falls on a Sunday: if you’ve been naughty then you’ll need to wait until 2021 for the next one – but driving there doesn’t count... The 11th and 12th centuries marked the heyday of the pilgrimage. The Reformation was devastating for Catholic pilgrimages and by the 19th century the Camino had nearly died out. In its startling late-20th-century reanimation, which continues today, it’s most popular as a personal and spiritual journey of discovery, rather than one primarily motivated by religion. Today the most popular of the several caminos (paths) to Santiago de Compostela is the Camino Francés, which spans 783km of Spain’s north and attracts walkers of all backgrounds and ages from across the world. It’s the Council of Europe’s first Cultural Itinerary and a Unesco World Heritage site but, for pilgrims, it’s a pilgrimage equal to visiting Jerusalem, and by finishing it you’re guaranteed a healthy chunk of time off purgatory. 402

The Drive » Leave Pamplona TOP TIP: SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage FUENTE DE VINO on the A12 westbound and after about 10 minutes turn off at exit Even the most adamant nonwalker might wish they’d 9, onto the more driver-friendly donned hiking boots when they get to the Monasterio NA1110. Drive through Astraín de Irache near Estella and find the Fuente de Vino and continue along this peaceful (Spring of Wine), just behind the Bodega de Irache. country road for 10 minutes to Yes, it really is a spring of wine and yes, you really can Legarda, then to Muruzábal and, drink some for free – though only if you’re a pilgrim finally, 2km southeast to Santa walking, not driving! – to Santiago. María de Eunate. with the ghosts of a mul- visitors are continuing 3 Santa María titude of pilgrims. Their that same plodding tradi- de Eunate first stop here is at the tion. There’s an attractive late-Romanesque Iglesia old quarter and a couple Surrounded by cornfields del Crucifijo, erected by of notable churches, in- and brushed by wildflow- the Knights Templar and cluding the 12th-century ers, the near perfect still containing one of the octaganal Romanesque finest Gothic crucifixes in Iglesia de San Pedro de chapel of Santa María existence. la Rúa. It’s cloisters are a de Eunate (h10am-2pm fine example of Roman- & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun) is one The Drive » The fastest esque sculptural work. of the most picturesque Across the river and over- chapels along the whole way between Puente la Reina looking the town is the Camino. Dating from and Estella is on the A12 (20 Iglesia de San Miguel, around the 12th century minutes, 22km), but the more with a fine Romanesque its origins – and the rea- enjoyable drive is along the north door. Close to son why it’s located in slower, more rural, NA1110, for Estella are a couple of the middle of nowhere – which you should allow about interesting monasteries: are something of a half an hour. You’ll probably spy the Monasterio de Irache mystery. a few Camino pilgrims trudging (h10am-1.15pm & 4-7pm along. Wed-Sun, closed 1-17 Jan) and The Drive » From the chapel 5 Estella Monasterio de Iranzu it’s just a 5km drive along the (www.monasterio-iranzu.com; NA6064 to gorgeous Puente Estella (Basque: Lizarra) admission €2.50; h10am-2pm la Reina. was known as ‘La Bella’ & 4-8pm). in medieval times be- 4 Puente la Reina cause of the splendour of The Drive » It’s a 40km (50 its monuments and build- The chief calling card of ings, and though the minute) drive from Estella to Puente la Reina (Basque: old dear has lost some Viana. When you leave Estella Gares), 22km southwest of its beauty to modern take the A12 westward and turn of Pamplona on the A12, suburbs, it’s not without onto the NA1110 at junction 58. is the spectacular six- charms. During the 11th Follow the NA1110 through the arched medieval bridge century Estella became a sleepy towns of Los Arcos, Sansol that dominates the main reception point for and Torres del Ro. In hillside western end of town, but the growing flood of pil- Torres you’ll find a remarkably Puente la Reina rewards grims along the Camino intact eight-sided Romanesque on many other levels. A de Santiago. Today most chapel, the Iglesia del Santo key stop on the Camino Sepulcro. de Santiago, the town’s pretty streets throng 403

JUERGEN RICHTER / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES © JOSÉ ANTONIO MORENO / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP STUART BUTLER, AUTHOR This is a drive on an epic scale. The Camino de Santiago has been drawing people to northern Spain for a millennia, and although religion plays no part in it for me I still consider the Camino the ultimate way of seeing northern Spain. Drive it. Cycle it. Walk it. Just do it! Top: Puente la Reina bridge Left: Camino de Santiago Right: Pilgrims near Burgos

SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage6 Viana DANIEL ACEVEDO / GETTY IMAGES © Overlooked by many nonpilgrim tourists, Viana, the last town in Navarra, started life as a garrison town defending the kingdom of Navarra from Castilla. Today, the old part of the town, which sits atop a hill, is still largely walled and is an interesting place to wander about for a couple of hours. The Iglesia de Santa María and Iglesia de San Pedro are the chief attrac- tions. Work started on Santa María in the 13th century and it is one of the more impressive religious structures on this eastern end of the Camino. The Iglesia de San Pedro is today a ruin that hosts concerts and weddings. The former bull ring is today a plaza in the middle of town, where children booting footballs are considerably more common than bulls. The Drive » It’s 10km and 20 minutes from Viana to Logroño. The first half of the drive is through open, big-sky countryside; the last part through the city suburbs. There’s a large carpark underneath the main plaza by the old town. 7 Logroño Logroño, capital of La Rioja and Spain’s wine-growing region par excellence, doesn’t feel the need to be loud and brash. Instead it’s a 405

SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage stately town with a heart Domingo de la Calzada, the most eccentric feature is of tree-studded squares, Camino walking trail virtually the white rooster and hen narrow streets, hidden traces the route of the fast, and that forage in a glass- corners and a monumen- dull, A12 motorway. There’s fronted cage opposite the tally good selection of really not much reason for you entrance to the crypt. pintxos (Basque tapas) to veer off the motorway (none Their presence celebrates bars. All up, this is the of the quieter, smaller roads a long-standing legend, sort of place that you really follow the Camino). the Miracle of the Roost- cannot help but feel con- er, which tells of a young tented in – and it’s not TRIP HIGHLIGHT man who was unfairly just the wine. The superb executed only to recover Museo de la Rioja (Plaza 8 Santo Domingo miraculously, while the San Agustin 23; h10am-2pm & de la Calzada broiled cock and hen on 4-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) the plate of his judge sud- in the centre of Logroño Santo Domingo is small- denly leapt up. takes you on a wild romp town Spain at its very through Riojan his- best. A large number of The Drive » From Santo tory and culture – from the inhabitants continue the days when dinner to live in the partially Domingo to Burgos it’s just was killed with arrows walled old quarter, a 57km and 50 minutes. Again to re-creations of the labyrinth of medieval you’re sort of stuck with using kitchens that many a streets where the past the A12. Spanish granny grew up is alive and the sense of using. The other major community is strong. TRIP HIGHLIGHT attraction is the Catedral The Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada 9 Burgos de Santa María de la (www.catedralsantodomingo. Redonda (Calle de Portales; es; Plaza del Santo 4; adult/ On the surface, conserva- h8am-1pm & 6-8.45pm Mon- student/child €4/3/free; tive Burgos seems to em- Sat, 9am-2pm & 6.30-8.45pm h10am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, body all the stereot­ ypes Sun), which started life as 9am-7.10pm Sat, 9am-12.20pm of a north-central Span- a Gothic church before & 1.45-7.10pm Sun Apr-Oct, ish town, with sombre maturing into a full- shorter hours Nov-Mar) and grey-stone architecture, blown cathedral in the its attached museum glit- the fortifying cuisine 16th century. ter with the gold that at- of the high meseta tests to the great wealth (plateau) and a climate of 5 4 p412, p435 the Camino has bestowed extremes. But Burgos is on otherwise backwater a city that rewards. The The Drive » For the short towns. The cathedral’s historic centre is aus- terely elegant, guarded 45km (35 minute) hop to Santo by monumental gates and with the cathedral as its TOP TIP: centrepiece. This Unesco PILGRIM HOSTELS World Heritage–listed Catedral is a master- In towns and villages all along the Camino you will piece that originally see very cheap pilgrim hostels. These are only for started life as a modest pilgrims travelling to Santiago by foot or bicycle (and Romanesque church, but able to prove it). As a driver you will be reliant on over time became one normal hotel-style accommodation. of the most impressive cathedrals in a land of impressive cathedrals. For more on the Catedral 406

WHO WAS ST JAMES THE APOSTLE? SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage St James, or James the Greater, was one of the 12 disciples of Jesus. He may even have been the first disciple. He was also the first to be martyred by King Herod in AD 44. So, if St James was living in the Holy Lands 2000 years ago, an obvious question persists: what were the remains of St James doing in northwest Spain a thousand years later? The accepted story (and we’re not standing by its authenticity) suggests that two of St James’s own disciples secreted his remains onto a stone boat which then set sail across the Mediterranean and passed into the Atlantic to moor at present-day Padrón (Galicia). Continuing inland for 17km, the disciples buried his body in a forest named Liibredon (present-day Santiago de Compostela). All was then forgotten until a thousand years later, when a religious hermit found the remains. and the other stellar b Frómista Benedictine centre by attractions of Burgos, see the 12th century. The p422. The main (and some Mudéjar-influenced brick would say only) reason Romanesque churches 5 4 p412, p425 for stopping here is the merit a visit. The Drive » It’s 58km (45 village’s exceptional Romanesque church, the The Drive » The 59km (50 minutes) from Burgos to little Iglesia de San Martín castle-topped Castrojeriz. Take (admission €1; h9.30am-2pm minute) stretch from Sahagún the A12 out of town to junction & 4.30-8pm). Dating from to León along the A231 and 32 and turn off northwest along 1066 and restored in the N601 isn’t one of the more the minor BU400. early 20th century, this memorable driving moments of harmoniously propor- this route. Still, you have to feel a Castrojeriz tioned church is one of for those walking the Camino as the premier Romanesque they’re virtually walking along With it’s mix of old and churches in rural Spain, beside you (some pilgrims new buildings huddled adorned with a veritable bus between Burgos and León around the base of a hill menagerie of human because so much of the route is that’s topped with what’s and zoomorphic figures next to the motorway). left of a crumbling castle, just below the eaves. The Castrojeriz is your typi- capitals within are also TRIP HIGHLIGHT cal small meseta town. richly decorated. It’s worth a climb up to d León the castle if only for the The Drive » From Frómista to views. The town’s church, León is a wonderful city, Iglesia de San Juan, is Sahagún is 59km (45 minutes) combining stunning his- worth a look as well. via the P980 to Carrión de los torical architecture with Condes, where the Camino an irresistible energy. Its The Drive » From Castrojeriz basically starts following the standout attraction is the major A231 road. 13th-century Catedral it’s only 30km (35 minutes) (%987 87 57 70; www. along the BU403 and P432 c Sahagún catedraldeleon.org; adult/ to Frómista. The scenery is concession/child under 12yr classic meseta and if you’re Despite appearances, Sa- €5/4/free; h9.30am-1.30pm lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of hagún was an immensely & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am- such evocotive sights as a flock powerful and wealthy 2.30pm & 5-8pm Sun), one of sheep being led over the of the most beautiful alternately burning or freezing cathedrals in Spain. plateau by a shepherd. Whether spotlit by night 407

BRAIS SEARA / GETTY IMAGES ©or bathed in glorious after colourful motif of sunshine, the cathedral, biblical scenes drench the SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage arguably Spain’s premier vaults and arches of this Gothic masterpiece, extraordinary hall. exudes a glorious, almost spirit of the Camino can luminous quality. The 5 4 p413 be strongly felt. show-stopping facade has The Drive » Taking the N120 a radiant rose window, The Drive » Continue along three richly sculpted from León to Astorga will keep doorways and two mus- you on the route of the Camino. the LE142 towards Ponferrada cular towers. After going It’s a 50km (one hour) drive. (one hour 20 minutes; 53km). through the main en- There’s also the much faster The road runs pretty much trance, lorded over by the AP71 motorway, but what’s the beside the Camino and you’ll scene of the Last Supper, point in coming all this way to pass through a string of an extraordinary gallery drive on a road like that?! attractive stone villages, most of vidrieras (stained- of which have churches topped glass windows) awaits. e Astorga with storks nests. It’s worth Even older than León’s stopping in Rabanal del Camino cathedral, the Real On a map of Spain, with its 18th-century Ermita del Astorga comes across Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz (a Basílica de San Isidoro as rather insignificant, hermitage). (h7.30am-11pm) provides but this medium-sized a stunning Romanesque town has history and counterpoint to the attractions totally out of former’s Gothic strains, proportion to its provin- with extraordinary cial status today. frescoes in the attached Panteón, the main high- The Drive » It’s just a 7km light. Fernando I and Doña Sancha founded the (15 minute) drive from Astorga church in 1063 to house to Castrillo de los Polvazares the remains of the saint, along the rural LE142. Note that as well as the remains of nonresidents are not allowed themselves and 21 other to drive into Castrillo de los early Leónese and Castil- Polvazares, so park up in one of ian monarchs. The main the parking areas on the edge of basilica is a hotchpotch the village. of styles, but the two main portals on the f Castrillo de los southern facade are pure Polvazares Romanesque. Attached to the Real Basílica de One of the prettiest vil- San Isidoro, Panteón lages along the Camino – if Real (admission €5; a little twee – is Castrillo h10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm de los Polvazares. It con- Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun) sists of little but one main houses the remain- cobbled street, a small ing sarcophagi, which church and an array of rest with quiet dignity well-preserved 18th- beneath a canopy of some century stone houses. If of the finest Romanesque you can be here before or frescoes in Spain. Motif after all the tour buses have left then it’s an absolute delight of a place and one in which the 408

Ponferrada Castillo Templario’s imposing entrance g Ponferrada Templario (adult/concession Renaissance Basílica €4/2, Wed free; h10am-2pm de Nuestra Señora de Ponferrada is not the la Encina (%987 41 19 78; region’s most enticing & 4.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am- h9am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm), town, but its castle and 2pm Sun) rise high over up the hill past the remnants of the old town Río Sil, and the square, tourist office, is the most centre (around the stone crenelated towers ooze impressive, especially clock tower) make it romance and history. The its 17th-century painted worth a brief stop. Built castle has a lonely and wood altarpiece from by the Knights Templar impregnable air, and is the school of Gregorio in the 13th century, the a striking landmark in Fernández. walls of the fortress- Ponferrada’s otherwise monastery Castillo bleak urban landscape. The Drive » Take the NVI Among Ponferrada’s from Ponferrada to Villafranca churches, the Gothic- del Bierzo (23km, 25 minutes), 409

SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage which runs almost right next to The Drive » The Camino, The Drive » Between Samos both the A6 motorway and the Camino. and the driving road, leaves and Santiago de Compostela Villafranca del Bierzo and starts (136km 2½ hours on the LU633 h Villafranca to wind uphill before entering and N547) there’s a whole load del Bierzo Galicia at tiny O Cebreiro, which of attractive little villages (Sarria, at 1300m is the highest point Portomarín and Melide) – there’s Villafranca del Bierzo on the whole Camino. From here not a lot to see at each, but it’s has a very well preserved continue to Samos. Total drive worth an amble around any old core and a number of length is 90km (two hours) of them. Once in Santiago de interesting churches and using the NVI, or reduce the Compostela dump the car and other religious buildings. journey time a little by taking head to the cathedral. Chief among the sights the neighbouring A6. are the San Nicolás El TRIP HIGHLIGHT Real, a 17th-century i Samos convent with a baroque j Santiago de altarpiece, and the Samos is built around Compostela 12th-century Iglesia de the very fine Benedictine Santiago. The northern Mosteiro de Samos (www. This, then, is it. The end doorway of this church abadiadesamos.com; tours of The Way. And what a is called the ‘door of for- €3; htours every 30min spectacular finish. Santi- giveness’. Pilgrims who 10am-12.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.45- ago de Compostela, with were sick, or otherwise 1.30pm Sun, 4.30-6.30pm its granite buildings and unable, to carry onto daily). This monastery has frequent drizzle, is one of Santiago de Compostela two beautiful big clois- the most attractive cities were granted the same ters (one Gothic, with in Spain. It goes without Godly favours as if they’d distinctly unmonastic saying that your first made it all the way. Greek nymphs adorning port of call should be the its fountain; the other Catedral de Santiago neoclassical and filled de Compostela (www. with roses). catedraldesantiago.es; Praza do Obradoiro; h7am-8.30pm), DETOUR: which soars above the CABO FISTERRA city centre in a splendid jumble of moss-covered Start: j Santiago de Compostela spires and statues. Built piecemeal over several In popular imagination Cabo Fisterra (86km, 1½ centuries, its beauty is hours; take the AC441) is not just the western edge a mix of the original of Spain (it’s not, that honour goes to Cabo da Nave, Romanesque structure 5km north), but in the days way before sat-nav it (built between 1075 and was considered the very end of the world. This has 1211) and later Gothic long made it a popular extension to the Camino de and baroque flourishes. Santiago. People today may not come here to ponder The tomb of Santiago what might lie beyond the western horizon, but beneath the main altar they do come with equal awe to watch the setting is a magnet for all who sun and admire the views from beside the powerful come to the cathedral. lighthouse that sits at the edge of these high cliffs. The artistic high point is Fisterra itself is a fishing port with a picturesque the Pórtico de la Gloria harbour, and a tourist destination growing ever more inside the west entrance, popular among Camino pilgrims. featuring 200 masterly Romanesque sculptures. After you’ve given thanks 410

SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage BRIAN LAWRENCE / GETTY IMAGES © Santiago de Compostela The city’s magnificent Catedral for a safe journey head to traffic- and cafe-free and a symbol of the crown’s the Museo da Catedral, has a unique atmosphere. power in this ecclesiasti- which spreads over At its northern end, the cal city. Today it’s a hotel, four floors and includes Renaissance Hostal dos but its four courtyards the cathedral’s large, Reis Católicos (p413) and some other areas are 16th-century Gothic/ was built in the early open to visitors. plateresque cloister. The 16th century by order of Grand Praza do Obra- the Catholic Monarchs, 5 4 p413 doiro, in front of the ca- Isabel and Fernando, as thedral’s west facade, is a refuge for pilgrims and 411

Eating & Sleeping Pamplona 2 4 Hotel Boutique Hotel €€€ SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage Calle Mayor 5 Bar-Restaurante Gaucho Pintxos € (%941 23 23 68; www.hotelcallemayor.com; (Travesía Espóz y Mina 7; pintxos €2-3; Calle Marqués de San Nicolás 71; r incl breakfast h7am-3pm & 6.30-11pm) This bustling bar serves multi-award-winning pintxos that, €120-160; paW) This delicious hotel is the despite some serious competition, many a local will tell you are the finest in the city – place to stay in Logroño. It has huge rooms and we agree! Try the ones made of sea urchins or the crispy spinach and prawn with cheeky touches such as modern lamps caramel creations. atop ancient columns, it’s bathed in light and simply oozes class. The staff are highly efficient. 4 Palacio Burgos 9 Guendulain Historic Hotel €€€ 5 El Huerto (%948 22 55 22; www.palacioguendulain. de Roque Contemporary Castilian €€ com; Calle Zapatería 53; s/d incl breakfast (www.elhuertoderoque.com; Calle de Santa Águeda 10; mains €10-12, menú del día €15; from €132/143; p aW) To call this hrestaurant 1-4pm Tue-Sat, gastrobar 8pm-2am Thu-Sat; v) Come here for an stunning hotel, inside the converted former inexpensive lunch with plenty of choice of dishes. The emphasis is on fresh market and home of the viceroy of New Granada, ecological produce with typical plates including vegetable spring rolls with a sweet and sour sumptuous is an understatement. On arrival, sauce, and crab in a Thai green curry sauce. The atmosphere throughout is boho-rustic you’re greeted by a museum-piece 17th- with original tiles, wooden furniture and edgy artwork. century carriage and a collection of classic cars being guarded beside the viceroy’s private chapel. The rooms contain Princess and the Pea–soft beds, enormous showers and regal armchairs. Logroño 7 5 La Cocina de Ramon Spanish €€€ 4 Hotel Norte Historic Hotel €€ (%941 28 98 08; www.lacocinaderamon.es; y Londres Calle de Portales 30; menús €28-37; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) It looks unassuming (%947 26 41 25; www.hotelnorteylondres.com; from the outside, but Ramon’s mixture of high- quality, locally grown market-fresh produce Plaza de Alonso Martínez 10; s/d €66/100; and tried-and-tested family recipes gives this place a lot of fans. But it’s not just the food that piW) Set in a former 16th-century palace makes it so popular: the service is outstanding, and Ramon likes to come and explain the dishes and with understated period charm, this fine to each and every guest. hotel promises spacious rooms with antique furnishings, polished wooden floors and pretty balconies; those on the 4th floor are more modern. The bathrooms are exceptionally large, the service exceptionally efficient. 412

León d Santiago de Compostela j 5 Delirios Contemporary Castilian €€ 5 O Curro Contemporary Galician €€ (%987 23 76 99; www.restaurantedelirios. da Parra com; Calle Ave Maria 2; mains €12-20; h1.30- 3.30pm & 9-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm (www.ocurrodaparra.com; Rúa do Curro da Parra Sun) One of the city’s more adventurous dining options where innovative combinations 7; mains €17-23, tapas €4-8; h1.30-3.30pm & such as tuna tataki with orange and ginger, and brie and foie gras with coconut hit the 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm Sun) With mark virtually every time. Those with more conservative taste buds can opt for dishes a neat little stone-walled dining room upstairs such as steak with parsnip chips, while the chocolate mousse with passionfruit is and a narrow tapas and wine bar below, O Curro designed to put a satisfied waddle in every diner’s step. Reservations recommended. da Parra serves up a broad range of thoughtfully SPAIN 29 Northern Spain Pilgrimage created, market-fresh fare. You might go for pork cheeks with apple purée and spinach – or just ask what the fish and seafood of the day are. On weekday lunchtimes there’s a good- value €12 menú mercado (market menu). 4 La Posada Regia Historic Hotel €€ 4 Hotel Costa Vella Boutique Hotel €€ (%987 21 31 73; www.regialeon.com; Calle de (%981 56 95 30; www.costavella.com; Rúa Regidores 9-11; s/d incl breakfast from €54/59; da Porta da Pena 17; s €59, d €81-97; aW) aW) This place has the feel of a casa rural Tranquil, thoughtfully designed rooms – some (village accommodation) despite being in with typically Galician galerías (glassed-in the city centre. The secret is a 14th-century balconies) – a friendly welcome and a lovely building, magnificently restored (wooden garden cafe make this old stone house a beams, exposed brick and understated antique wonderful option, and the €6 breakfast is furniture), with individually styled rooms and substantial. Even if you don’t stay, it’s an ideal supremely comfortable beds and bathrooms. spot for breakfast or coffee. Book ahead from As with anywhere in the Barri Gótic, weekend May to September. nights can be noisy. 4 Parador Hostal 4 Hostal de Historic Hotel €€€ dos Reis Católicos Historic Hotel €€€ San Marcos (%981 58 22 00; www.parador.es; Praza (%987 23 73 00; www.parador.es; Plaza de San do Obradoiro 1; r incl breakfast from €205; paiW) Opened in 1509 as a pilgrims’ Marcos 7; d incl breakfast from €134; aiW) hostel, and with a claim to be the world’s oldest hotel, this palatial parador just steps from the Despite the confusing ‘hostal’ in the name, cathedral is Santiago’s top hotel, with regal (if rather staid) rooms. If you’re not staying, stop León’s sumptuous parador (state-owned in for a look round (hnoon-2pm & 4-6pm Sun-Fri; admission €3) and coffee and cakes at hotel) is one of the finest hotels in Spain. With the elegant cafe. palatial rooms fit for royalty and filled with old-world luxury and decor, this is one of the Parador chain’s flagship properties and as you’d expect, the service and attention to detail are faultless. It also houses the Convento de San Marcos. 413

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IMAGEBROKER / ALAMY © Historic 30Castilla y León This journey through Spain’s Castilian heartlands takes in some of the country’s most beguiling historic cities and larger towns with numerous time-worn pueblos (villages) en route. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 671 km 631 km 7 DAYS Covarrubias Burgos 782 KM / 486 MILES One of Spain's most Arguably Spain's beautiful villages foremost Gothic GREAT FOR… cathedral B Valladolid ##9 mK# Soria BEST TIME TO GO #1#0 # Spring (March to # Aranda May) and Autumn de Duero (September and October) to avoid ##4 ##2 extreme heat and cold. Salamanca lL I ESSENTIAL Golden sandstone PHOTO architecture without _# MADRID peer Plaza Mayor, 254 km Segovia Salamanca, floodlit at Salamanca Plaza Mayor Disney castle, Roman night. aqueduct and lively streets K BEST FOR 92 km CULTURE Irresistible Salamanca street life against a glorious architectural backdrop. 415

30 Historic Castilla y León From Segovia to Soria, the towns of Castilla y León rank among Spain’s most appealing historic centres. Architecture may be central to their attraction, but these are no museum pieces. Instead, the relentless energy of life lived Spanish-style courses through the streets, all set against a backdrop of grand cathedrals and animating stately squares. Out in the countryside postcard-perfect villages complement the clamour of city life. : : :: : : : ::::: : \\# : :: : : : Astorga GF29 Sah:agún: : : : /·: : : #\\ : :#\\Osor:no : : Burgos A6 ::: : C:arrió:n#\\de : : #^#9 Puebla de ::: : los C:onde:s :: : ¸0N234 Sanabria : :Villaq:uejida Becilla de: : : :: Valderaduey: #\\ Am: usco: C:ovar:rubias #\\ #\\ :: : :: Medina de #\\ Rioseco ·/#\\ A52 H# :: V:illarra:miel : : : : : #10 :\\# : #\\ Lerma #\\ Parque Natural : : ]#: : : de Montesinho p419 Benavente Santo #\\ :: : P:alenc:ia : : H#Domingo ^#Bragança Tábara#\\ ::: de Silosp423 :::: SPAIN :: Gumiel de Izan #\\ Montamarta #\\ Villanubla #\\ :Valla:dolid : : A:randa Simancas: ^#: : : #\\ : : : 0¸Miranda do #Douro Toro 8 N:122 :#\\ de :Duero ::: # # 0¸ #PORTUGAL Rio Douro\\# Zamora: #]5 ·/Mogadouro /·#\\ PNaartquurael do Douro International /·Vilagudino #\\ : : 6#\\ : N122: :7 \\# : : : Peñafiel :: : : : : :Torde:silla:s : A1 Río Parque Corrales c #\\ : :D u e:ro :A6 #\\ Cuellar Natural Ayllón #\\ del Vino del Hoz : A:laejos:#\\ : Olmedo Medina #\\ \\# Cañizal del Campo #\\ Coca Puerto de Río #\\ Ataquines #\\ Somosierra c Tormes A62 Ledesma #\\ #Salamanca #]4 Encinas Arévalo #\\ #\\ de Abajo #Segovia 2\\# Buitrago #\\ Lumbrales #\\ #\\Martin de ¸0N630 San Pedro #\\ ¸0Villacastín #\\ c Puerto de : : Yeltes del Arroyo N-110 Navacerr:ada E:l Molar Collado: :#\\ : #\\# Ávila \\#3 Guadarrama #\\ Villal:ba : : I##\\ : : :Alcal:á de Ciudad Peña de \\# #\\ Rodrigo R Francia R \\# Piedrahita El Escorial :: H:enare:s (1732m) Pico de Almanzor : :p440 : : #] : (2592m) Río Alberche :#] Bejar Béjar #Mad:rid #_1: :dTeorAr:erdjóonz #\\ Ll: : e# 0 50 km Puerto 0 25 miles de Tornavacas c ::: c \\# : \\#: \\# : :

ies – the Prado, Thyssen dance, among them the and Reina Sofía – all Roman Acueducto, the 1 Madrid clustered close to one of fairytale Alcázar (%921 SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN the city’s main boule- 46 07 59; www.alcazardese- Madrid is the most Span- vards and a short walk ish of all Spanish cities. from the Parque del Buen govia.com; Plaza de la Reina Its food culture, drawn Retiro, one of the loveli- from the best the country est and most expansive Victoria Eugenia; adult/conces- has to offer, makes it one monumental parks in of Europe’s more under- Europe. In short, this sion/child under 6yr €5/3/free, rated culinary capitals, is a city that rewards while its nightlife and those who linger and love tower €2, EU citizens free 3rd its irresistible joie de all things Spanish. To vivre exist like some explore Madrid on foot, Tue of month; h10am-6pm Spanish stereotype see p440. given form. But there Oct-Mar, 10am-7pm Apr-Sep; is more to Madrid than The Drive » Getting out of c), which is said to have just nonstop colour and inspired Walt Disney, movement. This is one Madrid can be a challenge, and Romanesque gems of the premier art cities with a complicated system such as the Catedral on the continent, with of numbered motorways (%921 46 22 05; Plaza Mayor; three world-class galler- radiating out from the city. Drive north along the Paseo de la adult/concession €3/2, Sun GF29 Río Ebro:L:og:r#^o:ño: Castellana, turn west along the #\\ M50 ring road, then take the A6, morning free, tower €5; FG31 Náje:ra : : : direction A Coruña. Of the two : : : : :#\\ main roads to Segovia from the h9.30am-5.30pm Oct-Mar, A6, the N603 is the prettier. 9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep) or Hontoria #\\ the Iglesia de San Martín del TRIP HIGHLIGHT (hbefore & after Mass). This Pinar Navaleno mK is also one of the most 2 Segovia dynamic towns in the \\# \\# #1]#1 Soria country, a winning mix Unesco World Heritage– of local students and in- 0¸N234 listed Segovia is a stun- ternational visitors filling ning confluence of every- the city’s bars and public Calatañazor thing that’s good about spaces with an agree- \\# the beautiful towns of able crescendo of noise. Castilla. There are his- To cap it all, the setting \\# Río Due ro toric landmarks in abun- is simply superb – a city Gormaz strung out along a ridge, LINK its warm terracotta and YOUR sandstone hues arrayed TRIP against a backdrop of Castilla’s rolling hills and the often-snowcapped \\# Almazán Atienza\\# Imón Medinaceli \\# \\# v Roving La Rioja t Northern Spain Wine Region Pilgrimage ares Discover the wealth of the Crisscross the Camino de :: Río Hen : \\# Torija \\# Cifuentes #Ygrape on this peaceful Santiago pilgrim route, two countryside drive, just an and a half hours north from :: hour and a half north from Soria. : : ]#:Guadalajara Soria. : Priego #] : \\# \\# 417 Pastrana

SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN Sierra de Guadarrama. €5/free; h10am-8pm Tue- the sandstone Basílica There are many vantage Sun; c) can be climbed – de San Vicente (Plaza de points to take in the full a 300m stretch that can San Vicente; admission €2; effect, but our favourite be accessed from just h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, can be found anywhere inside the Puerta del 4-6pm Sun). in the gardens near the Alcázar, and a longer entrance to the Alcázar. 1300m stretch that runs 4 p424 the length of the old The Drive » The N501 runs 5 4 p424 city’s northern perimeter. The Drive » It’s 66km The best views are those northwest of Ávila to Salamanca, at night from Los Cuatro in the process traversing the from Segovia to Ávila along Postes, a short distance pancake-flat high meseta the N110. The road runs northwest of the city. (plateau) of central Spain and southwest, parallel to the Sierra Ávila is also the home covering 96km en route. de Guadarrama, with some city of Santa Teresa, with excellent views en route. At the Convento de Santa TRIP HIGHLIGHT around the halfway mark, you’ll Teresa (%920 21 10 30; cross the A6 motorway. Plaza de la Santa; h8.45am- 4 Salamanca 3 Ávila 1.30pm & 3.30-9pm Tue-Sun) Salamanca is a special as its centrepiece. Other place: its perfect mix Ávila’s old city, sur- important religious of eye-catching archi- rounded by imposing high points include the tecture and animated 12th-century murallas streets make it one of our (walls) comprising eight Catedral del Salvador favourite cities in Spain. monumental gates, 88 (Plaza de la Catedral; admission The city is at its best as watchtowers and more day turns the corner into than 2500 turrets, is one €4; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, night. of the best-preserved medieval-walled cities 10am-8pm Sat, noon-6.30pm 5 4 p424 in Spain. Two sections of Sun), the Monasterio de The Drive » The N630 runs the Murallas (muralladeav- Santo Tomás (www.mon- ila.com; adult/child under 12yr asteriosantotomas.com; Plaza due north from Salamanca to Zamora (67km), a relatively de Granada 1; admission €4; quiet road by Spanish standards h10am-1pm & 4-8pm) and LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: FROG-SPOTTING IN SALAMANCA Arguably a lot more interesting than trainspotting (and you don’t have to wear an anorak and drink tea from a thermos flask), a compulsory task facing all visitors to Salamanca is to search out the frog sculpted into the facade of the Universidad Civil (Calle de los Libreros; adult/concession €4/2, Mon morning free; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun). Once pointed out, it’s easily enough seen, but the uninitiated can spend considerable time searching. Why bother? Well, they say that those who detect it without help can be assured of good luck and even marriage within a year. Some hopeful students see a guaranteed examination’s victory in it. If you believe all this, stop reading now. If you need help, look at the busts of Fernando and Isabel. From there, turn your gaze to the largest column on the extreme right of the front. Slightly above the level of the busts is a series of skulls, atop the leftmost of which sits our little amphibious friend (or what’s left of his eroded self). 418

DETOUR: SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN PUEBLA DE SANABRIA Start: 5 Zamora Northwest of Zamora, close to the Portuguese border, this captivating village is a tangle of medieval alleyways that unfold around a 15th-century castle and trickle down the hill. This is one of Spain’s loveliest hamlets and it’s well worth the detour, or even stopping overnight: the quiet cobblestone lanes make it feel like you’ve stepped back centuries. Wandering the village is alone worth the trip here but a few attractions are worth tracking down. Crowning the village’s high point and dominating its skyline for kilometres around, the Castillo (adult/child under 12yr €3/ free; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sun; pc) has some interesting displays on local history, flora and fauna and superb views from the ramparts. Also at the top of the village, the striking Plaza Mayor is surrounded by some fine historical buildings. The 17th-century ayuntamiento (town hall) has a lovely arched facade and faces across the square to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Azogue (admission free; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat & Sun), a pretty village church which was first built in the 12th century. If you’re staying the night, the Posada Real La Cartería (%980 62 03 12; www.lacarteria.com; Calle de Rúa 16; r from €81; aiW) captures the essence of Puebla de Sanabria’s medieval appeal with both rooms and a restaurant. and one that follows the explore this subdued en- 6 Toro contours of the rolling hill core to the monumental country of Castilla y León’s west. splendour of Salamanca. With a name that Zamora is also one of couldn’t be more Spanish 5 Zamora the best places to be and a stirring history during Semana Santa, that overshadows its If you’re arriving by with haunting proces- present, Toro is your road, first appearances sions of hooded penitents archetypal Castilian can be deceiving and, parading through the town. It was here that as in so many Spanish streets. Whatever time Fernando and Isabel towns, your introduction of year you’re here, cemented their primacy to provincial Zamora is don’t miss the Museo de in Christian Spain at the likely to be nondescript Semana Santa (%980 53 Battle of Toro in 1476. apartment blocks. But 22 95; semanasantadezamora. The town sits on a rise persevere as the casco com; Plaza de Santa María La high above the north historico (old town) is Nueva; adult/child €4/1.50; bank of Río Duero and hauntingly beauti- h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, has a charming historic ful, with sumptuous 10am-2pm Sun). centre with half-timbered medieval monuments houses and Romanesque that have earned Zamora 5 4 p424 churches. The high the popular sobriquet point, literally, is the ‘Romanesque Museum’. The Drive » The A11 tracks 12th-century Colegiata Much of the old town is closed to motorised east of Zamora – not far out Santa María La Mayor transport and walking along the sweeping plains that (Plaza de la Colegiata; admis- is easily the best way to bake in summer, take the turn- sion €2; h10.30am-2pm & off to Toro. 5.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun), which 419

FRANZ MARC FREI / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES © MARÍA GALÁN / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP ANTHONY HAM, AUTHOR The towns north and west of Madrid are windows on the Spanish soul, each with their own distinctive appeal. Segovia, Ávila, Salamanca, Zamora and Burgos are all Spanish classics, dynamic cities with extraordinary architectural backdrops. Throw in some captivating, beautiful villages along the way and you’ve captured the essence of this remarkable country in just a week. Top: Tordesillas reflected in the Río Duero Left: Diners in Covarrubias Right: Ávila’s fortified murallas (walls)

SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓNrises above the town and boasts the magnificent MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES © Romanesque-Gothic Pór- tico de la Majestad. The Drive » Return to the main east–west road that passes to the north of Toro (the A11, then E82), and continue east to Tordesillas. 7 Tordesillas Commanding a rise on the northern flank of Río Duero, this pretty little town has a historical sig- nificance that belies its size. Originally a Roman settlement, it later played a major role in world history when, in 1494, Isabel and Fernando, the Catholic Monarchs, sat down with Portugal here to hammer out a treaty determining who got what in Latin America. Portugal got Brazil and much of the rest went to Spain. Explaining it all is the excellent Museo del Tratado del Tordesil- las (%983 77 10 67; Calle de Casas del Tratado; h10am- 1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun). Not far away, the heart of town is formed by the delightful porticoed and cobbled Plaza Mayor, its mustard- yellow paintwork offset by dark-brown woodwork and black grilles. The Drive » From Tordesillas, E80 sweeps northeast, skirts the southern fringe of Valladolid and then continues east as the N122, through the vineyards of the Ribera del Duero wine region all the way into Peñafiel. 421

SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN 8 Peñafiel for lunch – try the roast lamb at The Drive » Take the E5 Asador Casa Brigant on Plaza Peñafiel is the gateway Mayor. Sated, return to the south of Burgos but almost to the Ribera del Duero E5 and take it all the way into immediately after leaving the wine region and it’s an Burgos. city’s southern outskirts, take appealing small town in the N234 turnoff and follow the its own right. At ground TRIP HIGHLIGHT signs over gently undulating hills level, Plaza del Coso and through green valleys to the is one of Spain’s most 9 Burgos walled village of Covarrubias. stunningly picturesque plazas. This rectangular Dominated by its Unesco TRIP HIGHLIGHT 15th-century ‘square’ World Heritage–listed was one of the first to be cathedral but with plenty a Covarrubias laid out for this purpose more to turn the head, and is considered one Burgos is one of Castilla Inhabiting a broad valley of the most important y León’s most captivating in eastern Castilla y León forerunners to the plazas towns. The extraordinary and spread out along mayores (main squares) Gothic Catedral (%947 20 the shady banks of Río across Spain. It’s still 47 12; www.catedraldeburgos. Arlanza with a gorgeous used for bullfights on es; Plaza del Rey Fernando; riverside aspect, Covarru- ceremonial occasions, adult/child under 14yr incl mul- bias is only a short step and it’s watched over by tilingual audioguide €6/1.50; removed from the Middle distinctive half-wooden h10am-6pm) is one of Ages. Once you pass facades. But no mat- Spain’s glittering jewels beneath the formidable ter where you are in of religious architecture stone archways that mark Peñafiel, your eyes will be and looms large over the the village’s entrances, drawn to the Castillo de city and skyline. Inside Covarrubias takes visi- Peñafiel (Museo Provincial is the last place of El Cid tors within its intimate del Vino; Peñafiel; castle €3, and there are numerous embrace with tightly incl museum €7, audioguides extravagant chapels, a huddled and distinctive, €2; h11am-2.30pm & 4.30- gilded staircase and a arcaded half-timbered 8.30pm Tue-Sun), one of splendid altar. Some of houses opening out onto Spain’s longest and nar- the best cathedral views cobblestone squares. Sim- rowest castles (the walls are from up the hill at ply wandering around and towers stretch over the lookout, just below the village is the main 200m but are little more the 9th-century Castillo pastime, and don’t miss than 20m across). Within de Burgos. Elsewhere in the charming riverside the castle’s crenulated town, two monasteries – pathways or outdoor walls is the state-of-the- the Cartuja de Miraflores tables that spill out onto art Museo Provincial (%947 25 25 86; h10.15am- the squares. Otherwise, del Vino, the local wine 3pm & 4-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu- the main attraction is the museum that tells a Sat, 11am-3pm & 4-6pm Sun) Colegiata de San Cosme comprehensive story of and the Monasterio de y Damián (admission €2.50; the region’s wines. las Huelgas (%947 20 16 h10.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon 30; www.monasteriodelashuel- & Wed-Sat, 4.30-6pm Sun), 4 p425 gas.org; guided tours €7, Wed which has the evocative free; h10am-1pm & 4-5.30pm atmosphere of a mini ca- The Drive » The N122 Tue-Sat, 10.30am‑2pm Sun) – thedral and Spain’s oldest are worth seeking out, still-functioning church continues east of Peñafiel. At while the city’s eating organ; note also the Aranda del Duero, turn north scene is excellent. gloriously ostentatious along the E5 and make for altar, fronted by several Lerma, an ideal place to stop 5 4 p412, p425 Roman stone tombs, plus that of Fernán González, 422

the 10th-century founder DETOUR: SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN of Castilla. Don’t miss the SANTO DOMINGO graceful cloisters and the DE SILOS sacristia with its vibrant 15th-century paintings Start: a Covarrubias by Van Eyck and tryptic Adoracion de los Magis. Nestled in the rolling hills just off the Burgos–Soria (N234) road, this tranquil, pretty village is built The Drive » The N234 winds around a monastery with an unusual claim to fame: monks from here made the British pop charts in southwest of Covarrubias the mid-1990s with recordings of Gregorian chants. through increasingly contoured Notable for its pleasingly unadorned Romanesque country all the way to Soria. sanctuary dominated by a multidomed ceiling, the Along the way there are signs church (h6am-2pm & 4.30-10pm, chant 6am, 7.30am, to medieval churches and 9am, 1.45pm, 4pm, 7pm & 9.30pm) is where you can hear hermitages marking many the monks chant. The monastery, one of the most minor roads that lead off into famous in central Spain, is known for its stunning the trees. In no time at all cloister (admission €3.50; h10am-1pm & 4.30-6pm Tue- you’ll see the turn-off to Santo Sat, 4.30-6pm Sun), a two-storey treasure chest of some Domingo de Silos. of Spain’s most imaginative Romanesque art. Don’t miss the unusually twisted column on the cloister’s b Soria western side. For sweeping views over the town, pass under the Arco de San Juan and climb the grassy hill Small-town Soria is to the south to the Ermita del Camino y Via Crucis. one of Spain’s smaller provincial capitals. Set north is the beautiful interlaced arches in the on Río Duero in the Romanesque Iglesia de partially ruined cloister. heart of backwoods Santo Domingo (Calle A lovely riverside walk Castilian countryside, de Santo Tomé Hospicio; south for 2.3km will take it has an appealing and h7am-9pm), with a small you past the 13th-century compact old centre, and but exquisitely sculpted church of the former a sprinkling of stunning portal of reddish stone Knights Templar, the monuments. The narrow that seems to glow at Monasterio de San Polo streets of the town centre sunset. Down the hill by (not open to the public), on Plaza Mayor, with its the river east of the town and on to the fascinat- attractive Renaissance- centre, the 12th-century ing, baroque Ermita de era ayuntamiento and San Saturio (Paseo de San the Iglesia de Santa Monasterio de San Juan Saturio; h10.30am-2pm & María la Mayor, with its de Duero (Camino Monte de 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun). unadorned Romanesque las Ánimas; admission €0.60, facade and gilt-edged 5 4 p425 interior. A block north is Sat & Sun free; h10am-2pm the majestic, sandstone, 16th-century Palacio & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm de los Condes Gomara Sun) has many gracefully (Calle de Aguirre). Further 423

/ GETTY IMAGES ©Eating & Sleeping SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓNSegovia 2 Salamanca 4 5 Restaurante Sephardic €€ 5 Mesón Cervantes Castilian €€ El Fogón Sefardí (www.mesoncervantes.com; Plaza Mayor 15; (%921 46 62 50; www.lacasamudejar.com; Calle menú del día €13.50, mains €10-22; h10am- de Isabel la Católica 8; mains €15-25, tapas from midnight) Although there are outdoor tables €2.50; h1.30-4.30pm & 5.30-11.30pm) Located on the square, the dark wooden beams and within the Hospedería La Gran Casa Mudéjar, atmospheric buzz of the Spanish crowd on the this is one of the most original places in town. 1st floor should be experienced at least once; Sephardic and Jewish cuisine is served either on if you snaffle a window table in the evening, the intimate patio or in the splendid dining hall you’ve hit the jackpot. The food’s a mix of platos with original, 15th-century Mudéjar flourishes. combinados (meat-and-three-veg dishes), The theme in the bar is equally diverse. Stop salads and raciones (large tapas servings). here for a taste of the award-winning tapas. 4 Microtel Reservations recommended. Placentinos Boutique Hotel €€ 4 Hospedería La Gran Historic Hotel €€ (%923 28 15 31; www.microtelplacentinos. Casa Mudéjar com; Calle de Placentinos 9; s/d incl breakfast (%921 46 62 50; www.lacasamudejar.com; Calle Sun-Thu €57/73, Fri & Sat €88/100; aW) One de Isabel la Católica 8; r from €80; aiW) of Salamanca’s most charming boutique hotels, Spread over two buildings, this place has been Microtel Placentinos is tucked away on a quiet magnificently renovated, blending genuine street and has rooms with stone walls and wooden 15th-century Mudéjar carved wooden ceilings beams. The service is faultless, and the overall in some rooms with modern amenities. In the atmosphere is one of intimacy and discretion. All newer wing, the rooms on the top floors have rooms have a hydromassage shower or tub and fine mountain views out over the rooftops of there’s a summer-only outside whirpool spa. Segovia’s old Jewish quarter. Adding to the appeal, there’s a small spa and the restaurant Zamora 5 comes highly recommended. Ávila 3 5 El Rincón 4 Hotel El Rastro Historic Hotel € de Antonio Contemporary Castilian €€€ (%920 35 22 25; www.elrastroavila.com; Calle (%980 53 53 70; www.elrincondeantonio. com; Rúa de los Francos 6; mains €19.50-26, Cepedas; s/d €35/55; aW) This atmospheric set menus €11-65; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-4.30pm Sun) A fine place offering hotel occupies a former 16th-century palace tapas in the bar, as well as sit-down meals in a classy, softly lit dining area. Amid the with original stone, exposed brickwork and a range of tasting menus there’s one consisting of four tapas for €11, including a glass of natural earth-toned colour scheme exuding wine. In the restaurant, dishes are classic with a contemporary twist, such as Galician a calm understated elegance. Each room has scallops served in onion leaves. Reservations recommended. a different form, but most have high ceilings and plenty of space. Note that the owners also run a marginally cheaper, same-name hostal (budget hotel) around the corner. 424

4 Parador Condes Historic Hotel €€€ 4 Hotel La Puebla Boutique Hotel €€ de Alba y Aliste (%947 20 00 11; www.hotellapuebla.com; Calle de la Puebla 20; r from €95; aiW) (%980 51 44 97; www.parador.es; Plaza Viriato This boutique hotel adds a touch of style to the Burgos hotel scene. The rooms aren’t 5; r €100-168; aiWs) Set in a sumptuous huge and most don’t have views but they’re softly lit, beautifully designed and supremely 15th-century palace, this is modern luxury with comfortable. Extra perks include bikes and a pillow menu, while, on the downside, some myriad period touches (mostly in the public readers have complained about the level of street noise. areas). There’s a swimming pool and, unlike many paradores (luxurious state-owned hotels), it’s right in the heart of town. On the downside, there is very limited parking available (just eight places). The restaurant (menú del día €33) is SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN predictabe parador quality. Peñafiel 8 Soria b 4 Hotel Convento Historic Hotel €€ 5 Baluarte Contemporary Castilian €€ Las Claras (%975 21 36 58; www.baluarte.info; Caballeros 14; mains €12-25, menú degustación €47; (%983 87 81 68; www.hotelconventolasclaras. h1.45-3.45pm & 9-11pm Tue-Sat, 1.30- 3.30pm Sun) Oscar Garcia is one of Spain’s com; Plaza de los Comuneros 1; s €80-105, d most exciting new chefs and this venture in Soria appropriately showcases his culinary €95-150; aWs) This cool, classy hotel is talents. Dishes are based on classic Castilian ingredients but treated with just enough foam an unexpected find in little Peñafiel. A former and drizzle to ensure that they are both exciting and satisfying, without being too pretentious. convent, the rooms are luxurious and there’s Reservations essential. a full spa available with thermal baths and 4 Hotel Soria Plaza Mayor Hotel €€ treatments. There’s also an excellent restaurant (%975 24 08 64; www.hotelsoriaplazamayor. com; Plaza Mayor 10; s/d/ste €65/72/91; ai) with, as you’d expect, a carefully chosen wine This hotel has terrific rooms, each with its own style of decor, overlooking either Plaza Mayor or list. Lighter meals are available in the cafeteria. a quiet side street. There are so many balconies that even some bathrooms have their own. The Burgos 9 suites are very comfortable. 5 Cervecería Morito Tapas € CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption (Calle Sombrerería 27; tapas €3, raciones €5-7; h12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm) Cervecería Morito is the undisputed king of Burgos tapas bars and it’s always crowded, deservedly so. A typical order is alpargata (lashings of cured ham with bread, tomato and olive oil) or the pincho de morcilla (small tapa of local blood sausage). The presentation is surprising nouvelle, especially the visual feast of salads. 425

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JOAN GIL / ALAMY © # Roving La Rioja 31Wine Region Learn all about the gift of the grape on this quiet road trip through vine-studded countryside. Along the way you can visit wine museums and bodegas and admire stunning architecture. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 2–4 DAYS 140 KM / 97 MILES 98 km 1 km Dinastía Vivanco Logroño GREAT FOR… Obtain wine-fuelled Delve into the fabulous knowledge in this culinary scene of this HB space-age museum understated city BEST TIME TO GO Haro ##8 September and # J%##1 October when the grapes are being ##6 Laguardia harvested. Spin back the wheels of Nájera # time in this wine-soaked I ESSENTIAL fortress town PHOTO # 105km Waving at the camera San Millán from in front of the de Cogolla Hotel Marqués de Riscal. Elciego Hotel Marqués de Riscal K BEST FOR FOODIES Logroño has some of the best tapas in Spain. 427

31 Roving La Rioja Wine Region La Rioja is home to the best wines in Spain and on this short and sweet road trip along unhurried back roads you’ll enjoy gorgeous vine-striped countryside and asleep-at-noon villages of honey-coloured stone. But the real interest is reserved for food and drink: cutting-edge museums, bodega tours and some of the best tapas in Spain will make this drive an essential for any foodie. Río Ebro 0¸N124 Briñas #\\ Labastida #\\ #\\ Bodegas Ysios 0¸N232 #Haro H# 5\\# San Vicente Casalarreine#\\ #\\ de la # Sonsierra #p434 Laguardia 6#\\ #\\8 Briones Viana # 0¸ GF#\\7 : : ¸0LR111 ¸0N232 :: : : : : #\\ : 63 km to #Nájera \\#2 :Elcie:go : :A124 : : : : FG‚30 ¸0LR113 :: 29 ·/A12 GF29 ::::::: #4#\\ : : : : : L:ogroño Santo Domingo #: : : : : ^#1: : de la Calzada ·/A12 :::::: J%Nava:rrete: : : : : : \\# :::::: ¸0LR204 ::::::: :::::: ::::::: 0¸: : : : : : : : : : N111: : : :::::: #San Millán #\\3#\\ ::::::: de Cogolla e# 0 10 km 0 5 miles

TRIP HIGHLIGHT related activities. For have been recognised by SPAIN 31 Roving La Rioja Wine Region more on things to see and Unesco as World Herit- 1 Logroño do in Logroño, see p405. age sites. Small and low-key 4 p412, p435 The Monasterio de Logroño is the capital of The Drive » It’s only a short Yuso (%941 37 30 49; www. La Rioja. The city doesn’t monasteriodeyuso.org; adult/ receive all that many drive of 28km (25 minutes) child €6/2; h10am-1.30pm & tourists and there aren’t from Logroño to Nájera along 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun) contains all that many things to the N232, which transforms into numerous treasures in see and do, but there is the A12 motorway around the its museum. You can only a monumentally good halfway point. visit as part of a guided selection of tapas bars. In tour. Tours last 50 min- fact, Logroño is quickly 2 Nájera utes and run every half- gaining a culinary repu- hour or so. In August it’s tation to rival anywhere The main attraction of also open on Mondays. in Spain. this otherwise unexciting town, which lies on the A short distance away Based in the small Camino de Santiago, is is the Monasterio de village of Fuenmayor (10 the Gothic Monasterio Suso (%941 37 30 82; admis- minutes west of Logroño), de Santa María la Real sion €4; h9.30am-1.30pm & Rioja Trek (%941 58 73 54; (admission €3; h10am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun). It’s www.riojatrek.com; wine experi- 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-12.30pm believed that in the 13th ence €28 per person) offers & 4-6pm Sun), in particular century a monk named three-hour wine ‘experi- its fragile-looking, early- Gonzalo de Berceo wrote ences’ where you visit a 16th-century cloisters. the first Castilian words vineyard and bodega and The monastery was here. Again, it can only participate in the process built in 1032, but was be visited on a guided of actually making wine significantly rebuilt in tour. Tickets, which must yourself. It also offers the 15th-century. be bought in advance, family-friendly wine- can be reserved by phone The Drive » The dry and can be picked up at LINK the Monasterio de Yuso. YOUR landscapes around Nájera TRIP become greener and more The Drive » It’s a 23km rolling as you head southwest t Northern Spain along the LR113 and LR205 for (20 minute) drive along the Pilgrimage 18km (20 minutes) to San Millán delightfully quiet LR204 to de Cogolla. In the far distance Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Drive alongside pilgrims mountains, which are snow- The scenery is a mix of vast on the road to Santiago capped in winter, rise up. sunburnt fields, red tinged soils, de Compostela. You can vineyards and patches of forest. join ‘the Way’ in Logroño. 3 San Millán de Cogolla 4 Santo Domingo u Historic de la Calzada Castilla y León The hamlet of San Millán de Cogolla is home to two The small, walled old A quick skip south to remarkable monaster- town of Santo Domingo Soria will let you do this ies, which between them is the kind of place captivating inland tour in helped give birth to where you can be certain reverse. the Castilian (Spanish) that the baker knows language. On account of all his customers by their linguistic heritage name and that everyone and artistic beauty, they will turn up for María’s 429

SPAIN 31 Roving La Rioja Wine Region christening. Santiago- The Drive » The LR111 goes There are plenty of bound pilgrims have wine bodegas in the vi- long been a part of the in an almost ruler-straight cinity of the town, some fabric of this town, and line across fields of crops of which are open to visi- that tradition continues and under a big sky to the tors (almost always with to this day, with most workaday town of Haro (20km, advance reservation). visitors being foot-weary 20 minutes). One of the more recep- pilgrims. All this helps tive to visitors is the Bo- to make Santo Domingo 5 Haro degas Muga (%941 30 60 one of the most enjoy- 60; www.bodegasmuga.com; able places in La Rioja. Despite its fame in the The biggest attraction wine world, there’s not Barrio de la Estación; winery in town, aside from the much of a heady bouquet tour €10), which is just very worthwhile pursuit to Haro, the capital of La after the railway bridge of just strolling the Rioja’s wine-producing on the way out of town. streets and lounging in region. But the town has It gives daily guided the main old-town plaza, a cheerful pace and the tours (except Sunday) in is a visit to the cathe- compact old quarter, Spanish, and tastings. dral. See p406 for more. leading off Plaza de la Although technically you Paz, has some intriguing should book in advance 4p435 alleyways with bars and in high season, you can wine shops aplenty. often just turn up and LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: TAPAS IN LOGROÑO Make no mistake about it: Logroño is a foodie’s delight. There are a number of very good restaurants, and then there are the tapas (which here are sometimes called by their Basque name of pintxos). Few cities have such a dense concentration of excellent tapas bars. Most of the action takes place on Calle Laurel and Calle de San Juan. Tapas cost around €2 to €4, and most of the bars are open from about 8pm through to midnight, except on Mondays. The following are some of our favourites. Torrecilla (Calle Laurel 15; pintxos from €2) OK, we’re going to stick our necks out here and say that this place serves the best pintxos in town. Go for the pyramid of jamón (cured ham) or the miniburgers (which come with mini bottles of ketchup!). In fact, what the heck, go for anything. It’s all good! Bar Soriano (Travesía de Laurel 2; pintxos from €2) The smell of frying food will suck you into this bar, which has been serving up the same delicious mushroom tapa, topped with a shrimp, for more than 30 years. La Taberna de Baco (Calle de San Agustín 10; pintxos from €2) This place has a cracking list of around 40 different pintxos, including bombitas (potatoes stuffed with mushrooms) and a delightful mess of toast with pate, apple, goat cheese and caramel. La Fontana (Calle Laurel 16; pintxos from €2) Another stellar pintxo bar with a welcoming atmosphere. This one’s speciality is sepia fontana. And when you order this what emerges from the kitchen? A pile of egg, mushroom, aubergine and foie gras. The octopus isn’t bad either. 430

THE WEALTH OF THE GRAPE SPAIN 31 Roving La Rioja Wine Region La Rioja, and the surrounding areas of Navarra and the Basque province of Álava, is Spain’s best-regarded wine-producing region. La Rioja itself is further divided into three separate wine-producing areas: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa. The principal grape of Rioja is the tempranillo. The first taste of a tempranillo is of leather and cherries and the wine lingers on the tongue. The Riojans have had a long love affair with wine. There’s evidence that both the Phoenicians and the Celtiberians produced and drank wine here and the earliest written evidence of grape cultivation in La Rioja dates to 873. Today, some 250 million litres of wine bursts forth from the grapes of La Rioja annually. Almost all of this (around 85%) is red wine, though some quality whites and rosés are also produced. The Riojan love of wine is so great that in the town of Haro they even have a fiesta devoted to wine. It culminates with a messy ‘wine battle’ in which thousands of litres of wine gets chucked around, turning everyone’s clothes red in the process. This takes place on 29 June. How to find a good bottle? Spanish wine is subject to a complicated system of classification, similar to the ones used in France and Italy. La Rioja is the only wine region in Spain classed as Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC), the highest grade and a guarantee that any wine labelled as such was produced according to strict regional standards. The best wines are often marked with the designation ‘Crianza’ (aged for a year in an oak barrel), ‘Reserva’ (aged for two years, at least one of which is in an oak barrel) and ‘Gran Reserva’ (aged for two years in an oak barrel and three years in the bottle). latch on to the back of de la Cultura del Vino; www. some wine tasting, and a tour. dinastiavivanco.com; adult/ by booking in advance, child €8/free; h11am-6pm you can join a tour of the The Drive » Briones is almost Tue-Fri & Sun, 10am-8pm Sat winery (€20 including Jul-Aug, shorter hours rest of museum entry; in Span- within walking distance of year). Over several floors ish only). Haro. It’s just 9km away (10 you will learn all about minutes) along the N124. the history and culture The Drive » It’s 19km (25 of wine and the various TRIP HIGHLIGHT processes that go into its minutes) along the N232 to production. All of this is Elciego. The scenery, which is 6 Briones done through interesting made up of endless vineyards, displays brought to life will delight anyone who enjoys One man’s dream has with computer technol- wide open spaces. In the put the small, obscenely ogy. The treasures on distance are strange sheer- quaint village of Briones display include Picasso- faced table-topped mountains. firmly on the Spanish designed wine jugs; wine and tourism Roman and Byzantine 7 Elciego map. The sunset-gold mosaics; gold-draped, village crawls gently wine-inspired religious When the owner of the up a hillside and offers artifacts; and the world’s Bodegas Marqués de commanding views over largest collection of Riscal, in the village the surrounding vine- corkscrews. At the end of Elciego, decided carpeted plains. It’s on of the tour you can enjoy he wanted to create these plains where you something special, he will find the fantastic didn’t hold back. The Dinastía Vivanco (Museo 431

STOCKPHOTOASTUR / GETTY IMAGES © HEMIS / ALAMY © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP STUART BUTLER, AUTHOR How can anyone not love an area sloshing in wine?! Well, for me, wine is only a part of my love for this region. The light and huge skies is what draws me here. It’s so very different to the often grey and damp north coast where I live. It feels so, well, Spanish! Top: La Rioja vineyards Left: Bodegas Palacio cellar, Laguardia Right: Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Elciego

SPAIN 31 Roving La Rioja Wine Regionresult is the spectacular Frank Gehry–designed TIM GRAHAM / GETTY IMAGES © Hotel Marqués de Riscal. Costing around €85 million, the building is a flamboyant wave of multicoloured titanium sheets that stands in utter contrast to the village behind. It’s like a rainbow-flavoured Guggenheim museum (not surprisingly, per- haps, as that was also designed by Gehry). Casual visitors are not really welcome to look around the hotel, but there is an excellent wine shop and interest- ing wine tours (%945 18 08 88; www.marquesderiscal. com; tour €11) take place – there’s at least one English-language tour a day. 4p435 The Drive » It’s only 15 minutes (9km) along the A3210 from Elciego to wonderful Laguardia, which rises up off the otherwise flat, vine-striped countryside. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 8 Laguardia It’s easy to spin back the wheels of time in the medieval fortress town of Laguardia, or the ‘Guard of Navarra’ as it was once appropriately known, sitting proudly on its rocky hilltop. As well as memories of long-lost yesterdays, the town further entices visitors with its wine- producing present. 433

Bodegas Palacio (%945 DETOUR: 60 01 51; www.bodegas- BODEGAS YSIOS palacio.com; Carretera de Elciego; tour €5; htours Start: 8 Laguardia (p433) 11am & 1pm Mon & Sat, Just a couple of kilometres to the north of Laguardia 4.30pm Tue-Fri, 1.30pm is the Bodegas Ysios (%941 27 99 00; www.ysios.com; Sun, closed afternoons Jul Camino de la Hoya, Laguardia; per person €10; htours & Aug) is only 1km from 10.30am, 1pm & 3pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am & 1pm Sat & Sun, Laguardia on the Elciego advance booking required). Architecturally it’s one of the road; reservations are most gob-smacking bodegas in Spain. Designed by not essential but are a Santiago Calatrava as a ‘temple dedicated to wine’, good idea (especially it’s wavelike roof made of aluminium and cedar out of season). Also just wood matches the flow of the rocky mountains outside Laguardia is the behind it. Daily tours of the bodega are an excellent introduction to wine production. CARLOS SANCHEZ PEREYRA / GETTY IMAGES ©Centro Temático del Vino Villa Lucia (%945 guided tour only and The Drive » From Laguardia SPAIN 31 Roving La Rioja Wine Region60 00 32; www.villa-lucia.finish with a 4D film and com; Carretera de Logroño; wine tasting. it’s a short 18km (20 minutes) museum €11; h11am-6.30pm down the A124 back to Logroño Tue-Fri, 10.15am-6.30pm 54p435 and the start of this tour. Sat, 11am-12.30pm Sun), a wine museum and shop. Museum visits are by Bodegas Ysios 434

Eating & Sleeping Logroño 1 Elciego 7 4 Hotel Marqués Design Hotel €€ 4 Hotel Marqués Design Hotel €€€ de Vallejo de Riscal (%941 24 83 33; www.hotelmarquesdevallejo. (%945 18 08 80; www.hotel-marquesderiscal. com; Calle del Marqués de Vallejo 8; s/d from com; Calle Torrea 1; r from €310; paW) When €50/75; paW) From the driftwood art to the owner of Elciego’s Bodegas Marqués de Riscal SPAIN 31 Roving La Rioja Wine Region cow skins, beach pebbles and photographic decided he wanted to create something special, flashlights it’s clear that a lot of thought and he didn’t hold back. The result is the spectacular effort has gone into the design of this stylish, Frank Gehry–designed Hotel Marqués de Riscal. modern and very well-priced hotel. Costing around €85 million, the building is a wave of multicoloured titanium sheets that stand in Santo Domingo de la Calzada 4 utter contrast to the village behind. 4 Hostal R Pedro Hotel € Laguardia 8 (%941 34 11 60; www.hostalpedroprimero. 5 Restaurante Amelibia Spanish €€ es; Calle San Roque 9; s/d €48/59; W) This (%945 62 12 07; www.restauranteamelibia.com; Barbacana 14; menú del día €17; h1-3.30pm carefully renovated townhouse, which has Sun-Mon & Wed-Thu, 1-3.30pm & 9-10.30pm Fri & Sat) This classy restaurant is one of Laguardia’s terracotta-coloured rooms with wooden roof highlights: stare out the windows at a view over the scorched plains and mountain ridges while beams and entirely modern bathrooms, is a dining on sublime traditional Spanish cuisine. terrific deal. 4 Parador Historic Hotel €€ Santo Domingo (%941 34 03 00; www.parador.es; Plaza del 4 Posada Mayor Santo 3; r from €105; pW) The Parador Santo de Migueloa Historic Hotel €€ Domingo is the antithesis of the town’s general air of piety. Occupying a 12th-century former (%945 600 187; www.mayordemigueloa.com; hospital, opposite the cathedral, this palatial Calle Mayor 20; s/d incl breakfast €99/105; aW) hotel offers anything but a frugal medieval-like For the ultimate in gracious La Rioja living, this existence. The in-house restaurant is reliably old mansion-hotel with its rickety rooms full good. of polished wood is irresistible. The in-house 4 Parador Santo Domingo restaurant (menus from €24), which is open to nonguests, is recommended and offers original Bernado de Fresneda Hotel €€ twists on local cuisine. Under the hotel is a small (%941 34 11 50; www.parador.es; Plaza de San wine bodega (guided visits for non-guests €5). Francisco 1; r from €90; pW) Just on the edge 4 Castillo el Collado Historic Hotel €€€ of the old town is the Parador Santo Domingo (%945 62 12 00; www.hotelcollado.com; Paseo el Collado 1; d €125-185; W) Like a whimsical Bernado de Fresneda, which occupies a former Disney dream castle, this place, which from the outside is all sturdy turrets and pretty flower convent and pilgrim hostel, although quite gardens, is a truly unique place to stay. The half-dozen rooms are all different but combine honestly, with its divine beds and rooms that quirky style with luxury living. The open-to-all restaurant (menus from €25) is also excellent. gush luxury, you probably wouldn’t describe it as a ‘hostel’ anymore. 435

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KNOW Climate CURRENCY # GSaOnMtiaayg–oSdeepCompostela Euro (€) BGaOrcyeealorn-raound LANGUAGE # Spanish (Castilian). Also Madrid Catalan, Basque and GO Mar–May, Sep & Oct Galician. # VISAS Valencia Generally not required for # GO year-round stays of up to 90 days (not at all for members of EU Seville or Schengen countries). # GO Oct–Apr Some nationalities need a Schengen visa. Dry climate Warm to hot summers, cold winters FUEL Mild to hot summers, cold winters Cold climate Petrol stations (usually open 24 hours) can be When to Go found along major highways. High Season (Jun–Aug, public holidays) Expect to pay €1.35 to €1.80 »»Accommodation books out and prices increase by up to 50%. per litre. »»Low season in parts of inland Spain. »»Expect warm, dry and sunny weather; more humid in coastal RENTAL CARS areas. Auto Jardim (www. autojardim.com) Shoulder (Mar–May, Sep & Oct) »»A good time to travel: mild, clear weather and fewer crowds. Hertz (www.hertz.com) »»Local festivals can send prices soaring. Low Season (Nov–Feb) Holiday Autos (www. »»Cold in central Spain; rain in the north and northwest. holidayautos.com) »»Mild temperatures in Andalucía and the Mediterranean coast. »»This is high season in ski resorts. Pepecar (www.pepecar.com) »»Many hotels are closed in beach areas but elsewhere prices IMPORTANT NUMBERS plummet. Europe-wide emergencies (%112) International access code (%00) Country code (%34) 436

Daily Costs Price categories indicate the El Prat Airport Budget: Less than €80 cost of a main course: (Barcelona) »»Dorm bed: €20–30 »»Double room in hostal (budget € less than €10 Rental cars Major car-rental €€ €10–20 agencies have concessions at hotel): €55–65 (more in Madrid €€€ more than arrival terminals. and Barcelona) Buses Cost €5.90 and run €20 every five to 10 minutes from »»Self-catering and lunch menú 6.10am to 1.05am; it’s 30 to 40 Sleeping minutes to the centre. del día (daily set menu): €10–15 Trains Cost €4.10 and run Casas Rurales Comfy village every 30 minutes from 5.42amto »»Use museum and gallery ‘free houses or farmhouses for hire in 11.38pm; it takes 25 to 30 the countryside. minutes to reach the centre. admission’ afternoons Taxis Cost €25 to €30 and Hostales Simple guesthouses reach the centre in 30 minutes. Midrange: €80-175 that have ensuite rooms. »»Double room in midrange Mobile Phones (Cell Paradores State funded Phones) hotel: €65–140 lodging often in castles, ex- monasteries or old mansions. Local SIM cards are widely »»Lunch and/or dinner in local available and can be used in Pensión Inexpensive, extremely European and Australian mobile restaurant: €20–40 basic guesthouses,often with phones, but are not compatible shared bathrooms. with many North American or »»Car rental: per day from €25 Japanese systems. Price categories indicate the Top End: More than €175 cost of a double room with Internet Access »»Double room in top-end hotel: private bathroom in high season: Wi-fi is available in most lodgings €140 and up (€200 in Madrid, € BARCELONA ELSEWHERE and cafes (and is usually free). Barcelona and the Balearics) €€ Internet cafes are rare. €€€ & MADRID less than »»Fine dining for lunch and €65 Money less than €65–140 dinner: €150–250 €75 The most convenient way to more bring your money is in the form »»Double room in parador €75– than of a debit or credit card, with 200 €140 some extra cash in case of an (luxurious state-owned hotel): emergency. €120–200 more Many credit and debit cards can than be used for withdrawing money Eating €200 from cajeros automáticos (ATMs) that display the Tapas Bar Tapas and Arriving in Spain relevant symbols such as Visa, drinks;open longer hours than Barajas Airport (Madrid) MasterCard, Cirrus etc. There is restaurants. usually a charge (around 1.5% Taberna Rustic place serving Rental cars Major car-rental to 2%) on ATM cash withdrawals tapas and raciones (large tapas). agencies have desks in the abroad. Panadería Bakery; good for airport at arrival terminals. pastries and coffee. 437 Vinoteca Wine bar where you Metro & buses Cost around order by the glass. €5 and run every five to 10 Cervecería Beerhall; the place minutes from 6.05am to 1.30am; to go for snacks and draft beer 30 to 40 minutes to the centre. (cerveza). Marisqueira Eatery Taxis Cost €30 and reach the specialising in seafood. centre in 20 minutes.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language The pronunciation of most Spanish sounds is very similar to that of their English counter- parts. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be under- stood. Note that kh is a throaty sound (like the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch), r is strongly rolled, ly is pronounced as the ‘lli’ in ‘million’ and ny as the ‘ni’ in ‘onion’. You may also notice that the ‘lisped’ th sound is pronounced as s in Andalucia. In our pronunciation guides stressed syl- lables are indicated with italics. SPANISH BASICS Can you please write it down? ¿Puede escribirlo, pwe·de es·kree·beer·lo por favor? por fa·vor Hello. Hola. o·la Goodbye. Adiós. a·dyos Can you show me (on the map)? ¿Me lo puede indicar me lo pwe·de een·dee·kar How are you? ¿Qué tal? ke tal (en el mapa)? (en el ma·pa) Fine, thanks. Bien, gracias. byen gra·syas Excuse me. Perdón. per·don Sorry. Lo siento. lo syen·to EMERGENCIES Yes. Sí. see Help! ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro No. No. no I’m lost. es·toy per·dee·do/a (m/f) Estoy perdido/a. Please. Por favor. por fa·vor Thank you. Gracias. gra·syas ON THE ROAD You’re De nada. de na·da I’d like to Quisiera kee·sye·ra welcome. hire a … alquilar … al·kee·lar … My name is … me lya·mo … 4WD un todo- oon to·do· Me llamo … terreno te·re·no What’s your name? bicycle una oo·na ¿Cómo se llama Usted? ko·mo se lya·ma oo·ste (pol) bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta ¿Cómo te llamas? ko·mo te lya·mas (inf) Do you speak English? car un coche oon ko·che ¿Habla inglés? a·bla een·gles (pol) ¿Hablas inglés? a·blas een·gles (inf) motorcycle una moto oo·na mo·to I don’t understand. no en·tyen·do No entiendo. Want More? DIRECTIONS For in-depth language information Where’s …? don·de es·ta … and handy phrases, check out Lonely ¿Dónde está …? Planet’s Spanish Phrasebook. You’ll find them at shop.lonelyplanet.com. What’s the address? ¿Cuál es la dirección? kwal es la dee·rek·syon 438

windscreen petrol parabrisas m gasolina f pa·ra·bree·sas ga·so·lee·na battery batería f ba·ta·ree·a engine motor m mo·tor headlight tyre faro m rueda f fa·ro rwe·da child seat asiento de a·syen·to de I had an accident. e te·nee·do oon seguridad se·goo·ree·da He tenido un ak·thee·den·te para niños pa·ra nee·nyos accidente. ga·so·le·o diesel gasóleo kas·ko I need a mechanic. me·ka·nee·ko helmet casco ga·so·lee·na Necesito un/una ne·the·see·to oon/oo·na ga·so·lee·ne·ra mecánico/a. m/f me·ka·nee·ko/a mechanic mecánico Are there cycling paths? petrol gasolina ¿Hay carril bicicleta? ai ka·reel bee·thee·kle·ta service station gasolinera Is there bicycle parking? ¿Hay aparcamiento ai a·par·ka·myen·to de bicicletas? de bee·thee·kle·tas How much is it per day/hour? ¿Cuánto cuesta por kwan·to kwes·ta por día/hora? dee·a/o·ra Is this the road to …? ¿Se va a … por esta se va a … por es·ta carretera? ka·re·te·ra Signs (How long) Can I park here? Stop Stop ¿(Por cuánto tiempo) (por kwan·to tyem·po) Puedo aparcar aquí? pwe·do a·par·kar a·kee Ceda el Paso Give Way The car has broken down (at …). Prohibido No Entry El coche se ha averiado el ko·che se a a·ve·rya·do (en …). (en …) Acceso Entrance I have a flat tyre. Peaje Toll Tengo un pinchazo. ten·go oon peen·cha·tho Dirección Única One Way I’ve run out of petrol. Me he quedado sin me e ke·da·do seen Vía Acceso Freeway Exit gasolina. ga·so·lee·na Aparcamiento ParkingA Where’s a petrol station? Prohibido Aparcar No Parking ¿Dónde hay una don·de ai oo·na gasolinera? ga·so·lee·ne·ra 439

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Plaza Mayor YOUR LEGS MADRID So many Madrid stories begin in Madrid’s grand central square. Since Start/Finish: Plaza Mayor it was laid out in 1619, the Plaza Mayor Distance: 3.8km has seen everything from bullfights to Duration: Two to three hours the trials of the Spanish Inquisition. These days the grandeur of the plaza Madrid’s compact and historic owes much to the warm colours of the centre is ideal for exploring on uniformly ochre apartments, with 237 foot. So much of Madrid life occurs wrought-iron balconies offset by the ex- on the streets and in its glorious quisite frescoes of the 17th-century Real plazas, and it all takes place Casa de la Panadería (Royal Bakery). against a spectacular backdrop of architecture, stately and grand. The Walk » Walk down Calle de Postas off the Take this walk on Trip plaza’s northeastern corner, cross the endlessly busy Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, then continue east u along Carrera de San Jerónimo. At elegant Plaza de Canalejas, turn right. Plaza de Santa Ana There are few more iconic Madrid squares than Plaza de Santa Ana, a local favourite since Joseph Bonaparte carved it out of this crowded inner-city neighbourhood in 1810. Surrounded by classic Madrid architecture of pastel shades and wrought-iron balconies, the plaza presides over the Barrio de las Le- tras and the outdoor tables are among the most sought-after in the city. The Walk » Walking west, cross Plaza del Ángel, walk along Calle de la Bolsa, cross Calle de Toledo and make for Calle de la Cava Baja, a glorious, medieval street lined with tapas bars. Keep Iglesia de San Andrés on your right, and stroll down the hill to Plaza de la Paja. Plaza de la Paja Delightful Plaza de la Paja (Straw Sq) slopes down into the tangle of lanes that once made up Madrid’s Muslim quarter. In the 12th and 13th centuries the city’s main market occupied the square and it retains a palpable medieval air, and at times can feel like a Castilian village square. Delic (%91 364 54 50; www.delic.es; Costanilla de San Andrés 14; h11am-2am Sun & Tue-Thu, 11am-2.30am Fri & Sat; mLa Latina), with tables on the square, is brilliant for a mojito, while the Jardín del Príncipe Anglona (Plaza de la Paja; h10am-10pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6.30pm Nov-Mar; mLa Latina), 440

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Parc de la Ciutadella YOUR LEGS BARCELONA The handsomely landscaped Parc de la Ciutadella is a local favourite for Start: Parc de la Ciutadella a leisurely promenade. Start in the Finish: Casa Batlló northeast corner, and descend past the Distance: 3.5km monumental Cascada (waterfall), then Duration: Three hours stroll south across the park, passing a small lake and Catalonia’s regional Packed with historic treasures parliament. and jaw-dropping architecture, Barcelona is a wanderer’s delight. The Walk » With your back to the park, cross This stroll takes you through atmospheric medieval lanes and Passeig de Picasso and walk along restaurant- along elegant boulevards, leading lined Passeig del Born. According to legend, you past Gothic cathedrals, lively jousting matches were once held here. tapas bars and picturesque plazas. Basílica de Take this walk on Trips Santa Maria del Mar r Nothing prepares you for the singular beauty of Basílica de Santa Maria del 442 Mar (%93 310 23 90; Plaça de Santa Maria del Mar; h9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm, from 10.30am Sun; mJaume I). Barcelona’s most stirring Gothic structure, the 14th- century church was built in just 59 years. In contrast to the tight warren of neighbouring streets, a real sense of light and space pervades the entire sanctuary of the church. The Walk » Leave via the main entrance and follow Carrer de l’Argenteria up to busy Via Laietana. Turn left onto Baixada de la Llibreteria, then right onto Carrer de la Freneria. After a few blocks, you’ll see the massive cathedral on your left. La Catedral For centuries the spiritual heart of Barcelona, La Catedral (%93 342 82 62; www.catedralbcn.org; Plaça de la Seu; admission free, special visit €6, choir admission €2.80; h8am-12.45pm & 5.15-7.30pm Mon-Sat, special visit 1-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun & holidays; mJaume I) is at once lavish and sombre, anchoring the city in its past. Begun in the late 13th century and not completed until six centuries later, the cathedral is Barcelona’s history rendered in stone. The Walk » Turn left out of the main entrance and left again down Carrer del Bispe. Just before reaching Plaça Sant Jaume, turn right onto Carrer del Call. Follow this narrow lane a few blocks, then turn left onto Carrer d’en Quintana. After two blocks, you’ll reach the plaza.

K& L&CC Uddde'nAleBPCri0000000oGvaaan#¡gesrrs0000000ócesàrlseelcUdSA0000000iiilnetgoaanaCiCB0000000nntve£#tCo#¡nateaadt0000000nr#tsdesilla#¡i00000000000000ealtJólaosR00000000000000dtPdPaTCeeeanl00000000000000000000000aialsnPsGdlJçCsla00000000000000000000000elareÀEaeaCaàrrViLnç0000000000000000000000000000000000arsdgPdcilagtiiCeecReaan0000000000000000000000000000000000000000CetsCallCAòsMlauPaPtsI000000000000000000000000000000000000rddaVVnditllaieaaaleGyaieAu000000000000000000000000000000000000rclçlrçaaltunaeL'aaoH£#Dn00000000000000000£0000000#0000000000000000ynnBriadVdopyçeo00000000000000000000000000000000000000000uiesae#¡aMl¡#tlpUqaCd00000000000000000000000000000000000000000cireeutadiqóaCrl000000000000000000000000000000000000000000teeuelacasCril00000000000000000000000000000n00000000000000000t0aCliuaaaadtonl000000000000000000000000000000000000000oruweyt#nLnsa000000000000000000000000000laiyCacaa#¡e0000000000000000000000000000000000000GBCtLuaAaÒal#¡000000000000000000R000000000000000000000annRPdoTCCue00000000000000000000000000000000000000'lnRsIUddaaCd¡#e00000000000ç00000000000000000000Ia000rtCaaCqeda0000000000000000000000000000000000000VuUdCds'AiipeardC000000000000000000000000u0000000#0000PRnrq'eLsaSadunlieaà000000000000000000000000000000aeolQaiisienlunçnatMC0000000000000000000ianaat#alataonaCRPrl000000000000000000000000000annlcaedIa000000000000000000000000BSJPr'LAeaalEAva000000000000000000000uCFniRçnrmat0000000000000000000000000000000000eaAyrdnreóCJPe0000000000000000000000000000000000000eedPla#¡arrdleeuSaLCi000000000000000000000000000000000000000000deaPlFrlmçaiedPelbila'0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000n000000gTaAAeeloratruçerrluI000000000000000000000000000i000000g0000000000000000actaePoee#¡drgmdrn00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000aeiedtaefe#B00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000e0000000PrlaPpigBa00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000aro00doncLr#0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000e00000000erydtAnsledoSBd000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000MlnRePPeaaPgai0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000gIlrEnosBdda.#MrMíeLt0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000eEdltFaioloBRCPaVco0000000000000000000000000000000000000000lrrMllarOAeoPad00000000000000000000000000000000lumçlRadePjaaMl0000000000000000000000000000ireNedcDCPireaPCiaic000000000000000000000000ps#¡sriaoaPsòiuaPraorss00000000000000000000000000000000000000dlttcclaaiBt#oaaFEV£#çu00000000000000000000000000000000000000ardrdsdaBearCVtPPadel0000000000000000cenaa0dliaileeluclaçr.raell0000000000000000l000000000l2ciataçcoaóa5ean000000000d0000000000000000ddlmeoed5eet000000000000000n0liealllea0eal000000000000000tsama000000 00000000000000000000000000Pg de Sant JoanC Pg de Gràcia de Roger Via Laietana de Lluís Com C de Balmes C de Fontanella C del Comerç La Rambla w w w C de Sant Pau Pg de Colom w w w 4Plaça Reial The Walk » Get back on La Rambla and One of the most photogenic squares in continue north. You’ll soon reach the spacious Barcelona, the Plaça Reial is not to be Plaça de Catalunya. Walk diagonally across thisw missed. Numerous eateries, bars and plaza, and turn left onto the grand boutique-lined nightspots lie beneath the arcades of Passeig de Gràcia, and walk up four blocks to the 19th-century neoclassical buildings, with architectural treasures looming just past Carrer a buzz of activity at all hours. The lamp del Consell de Cent. posts by the central fountain are Antoni Casa Batlló Gaudí’s first known works in the city. Even Gaudí outdid himself with this fantastical apartment block (%93 The Walk » Exit the square onto famous 216 03 06; www.casabatllo.es; Passeig de La Rambla, a bustling boulevard with a wide Gràcia 43; adult/concessions/child under pedestrian-filled strip in the middle. Walk north a few blocks until you see the large cast-iron market 7yr €21.50/€18.50/free; h9am-9pm daily; off to your left. mPasseig de Gràcia): an astonishing con- fection of rippling balconies, optical Mercat de la Boqueria illusions and twisted chimney pots along Barcelona’s grandest boulevard. This temple of temptation is one of The facade, sprinkled with bits of blue, Europe’s greatest permanent produce mauve and green tiles and studded fairs (%93 318 25 84; www.boqueria.info; La with wave-shaped window frames and Rambla 91; h8am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, closed balconies, rises to an uneven blue-tiled roof with a solitary tower. Sun; mLiceu). Step inside for a seemingly endless bounty of glistening fruits and The Walk » Since it’s a long walk back to the vegetables, smoked meats, pungent cheeses and chocolate truffles. In the start, hop on the metro and head to Arc de Trionf back, a handful of popular tapas bars station, a short stroll from Parc de la Ciutadella. serve up delectable morsels. 443



Portugal PORTUGAL’S MIX OF THE MEDIEVAL AND THE MARITIME makes it a superb place to visit. A turbulent history involving the Moors, Spain and Napoleon has left the interior scattered with walled medieval towns topped by castles, while the pounding Atlantic has sculpted a coast of glorious sand beaches. The nation’s days of exploration and seafaring have created an introspective yet open culture with wide-ranging artistic influences. The eating and drinking scene here is a highlight, with several wine regions, and restaurants that are redolent with aromas of grilling pork or the freshest of fish. Comparatively short distances mean that you get full value for road trips here: less time behind the wheel means you can take more time to absorb the atmosphere. Douro Valley Vineyards along the Douro River SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

San Cosme A Coruña Avilés Gijón #\\ #^ ]# ]# : #\\ Portugal Santiago de Ovied:o ^# Villaviciosa C:ompo#^stela #^ San Parque Nacional \\# Antolín de los Picos Lugo : de Europa Monforte\\#:Sarria de Ibias de Lemos : León Pontevedra #^ #\\ Ponfe:rrada:\\# : : ]# : : : Vigo ]# ^# : Astorga#\\ Sahag:ún Río Miño Ourense :: : : \\# : : N:aPta:urrqaulede : : Montesinho Viana do :: Pal:encia: Castelo ^# #\\ #\\ : #] Braga Benavente: :: :: Valladolid: #^ Chaves Miranda do Douro Vila Nova de Famalic\\#\\#ão #\\ Vila Real \\# Za:m]#:or:aT:ord:es:il\\#la:s ^# : Porto #^ : #^ #\\ Vila Nova de Foz Côa GF32 #\\ ::::: São João \\# Peso de Madeira da Regua ]# Salamanca Aveiro #^ ^#Viseu Guarda ATOLCAENATNIC Gouveia ]# ^# #\\ Ciudad Ávila \\# Parque Rodrigo Natural da Coimbra #^ Serra da Estrela \\# Fundão #\\ Bejar Pombal \\# PORTUGAL Plasencia Nav:almoral \\# : ^# Castelo d:\\#e la Mata Leiria #^ #\\ Fátima Branco SPAIN : Caldas da Rainha Peniche \\# #\\ #\\ Abrantes Cáceres #] #\\ Trujillo #\\ Santarem #^ Portalegre ^# La Nava de Torres Vedras #\\ Ricomalillo : LISBON Estremoz Elvas : Mé:rida : Don : #\\ Cascais \\# #_ #\\ Montijo #\\ #] #^ #\\ Benito Barreiro #\\ Badaj:oz : : :::: Almadén Setúbal ^# #^ Evora \\# #\\ Alcácer #\\ \\# Zafra Peñarroya- do Sal Pueblonuevo Sines #\\ Vila NovaBeja ^# #\\ \\# Moura \\# Monesterio #\\de Milfontes Parque Natural Córdoba Sierra Norte de Sevilla ^# GF33 Bollullos Montilla Par del Seville Écija #\\ #\\ #\\ Silves Huelva Condado ^#: \\# Osuna ^# #\\ \\# \\# \\# #\\ #\\ : : Arahal El Rocío #\\ : Sagres #\\ Lagos #^: Tavira Albufeira F:aro Parque N:atural: Arcos de la \\# de Doñana Frontera Antequera Chipiona \\# #] Cádiz #^ Parque Málaga ^# Natural del #\\ Estrecho Marbella Barbate \\# #^ Gibraltar Tarifa\\# e# 0 200 km 0 100 miles Tangier \\# MOROCCO

PAWEL KAZMIERCZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © DON'T MISS Surfing Portugal is one of Europe’s surfing hotspots: despite the Mediterranean vibe, this is the Atlantic, and those are serious waves on Trip x Carrapateira Praia do Amado Wine Tasting Often undererrated, Portugal’s wines are among the region’s great pleasures. Visit wineries and taste wines wand ports on Trip w Douro Valley Vineyard Trails 5–7 Days Hiking Heartbreakingly beautiful river valley laced with vines producing sensational ports and reds. Jump out of the car for (p449) some picturesque hill x Alentejo & Algarve Beaches 4–6 Days walking on Trips wx Some of the world’s great beaches and towns with Moorish heritage. (p459) 447

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