Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping Geneva 1 Bern 4 5 Brasserie des Halles European €€ 5 Altes Tramdepot Swiss €€ de l’Île (%031 368 14 15; www.altestramdepot.ch; Am (%022 311 08 88; www.brasseriedeshallesdelile. Bärengraben; mains Sfr18-37; h11am-12.30am) ch; Place de l’Île 1; mains Sfr20-50; h10.30am- At this cavernous microbrewery, Swiss staples midnight Sun & Mon, to 1am Tue-Thu, to 2am compete against microbrews for your appetite. SWITZERLAND 38 Geneva to Zürich Fri & Sat) An old market hall on an island, this 4 Hotel Goldener Schlüssel Hotel €€ industrial-style venue produces a cocktail of (%031 311 02 16; www.goldener-schluessel.ch; Rathausgasse 72; s Sfr148-185, d Sfr190-260; aperitifs, after-dark DJs and fresh fare. Best seat W) This comfortable 500-year-old hotel has updated rooms in the Old Town. in the house is a terrace hanging over the water. Fribourg 2 5 Le Port Cafe, Bar €€ Lucerne 7 (%026 321 22 26; www.leport.ch; Planche- 5 Grottino 1313 Italian €€ Inférieure 5; h10am-11pm Tue-Sun) In a former (%041 610 13 13; www.grottino1313.ch; gas warehouse on the banks of the Sarine, the Industriestrasse 7; 2-course lunch menu Sfr20; Port bursts with energy. Hang out on its shady h11am-2pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm riverside terrace enjoying lunchtime platters, or Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) A welcome escape, this live bands and dancing at night. relaxed yet stylish eatery with a candlelit 4 Auberge aux 4 Boutique Hotel €€ interior serves seasonal menus featuring Vents creative pasta dishes, meats cooked over an (%026 347 36 00; www.aux4vents.ch; Res Balzli open fire and scrumptious desserts. Grandfrey 124; s Sfr130-170, d Sfr180-260, s/d/ 4 Château Gütsch Hotel €€€ tr/q with shared bathroom Sfr65/130/170/200; (%041 289 14 14; www.chateau-guetsch.ch; ps) ‘Stylish’ scarcely does justice to this Kanonenstrasse; d Sfr330-570, ste Sfr445-1260; eight-room inn, with its dreamy Blue Room W) The setting is incomparable at this fairy-tale sporting a bathtub that rolls out on rails through hilltop palace dating from 1888. Many rooms the window for a soak beneath the stars. and suites enjoy sweeping views over Lake Lucerne, as do the bar and breakfast terrace. Interlaken 3 The decor features lavish details such as silver claw-footed bathtubs. 4 Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Luxury Hotel €€€ Hotel & Spa Zürich 9 (%033 828 26 10; www.victoria-jungfrau.ch; Höheweg 41; d Sfr400-800, ste Sfr600-1000; 5 Alpenrose Swiss €€ piWs) The impeccable service here (%044 271 39 19; Fabrikstrasse 12; mains evokes a bygone era, with the perfect melding Sfr26-42; h11am-midnight Wed-Fri, 6.15-11pm of well-preserved art-nouveau features, modern Sat & Sun) With its timber-clad walls, ‘No luxury, stellar dining and plum Jungfrau views. Polka Dancing’ warning and multiregional Swiss cuisine, the Alpenrose exudes charm. Specialities include Pizokel, a savoury kind of Spätzli (egg noodles) from Graubünden. 549

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KNOW Climate CURRENCY Basel Swiss franc (official GO Jul & Aug, Dec abbreviation CHF, also Sfr) # LANGUAGE # GZüOriAcphr–Aug German (p520), French (p196), Italian (p110), # Bern & Aug, Nov Romansch GO Jul VISAS Swiss Alps GO late Dec–early Apr, Generally not required for May–Aug stays of up to 90 days; some nationalities need a # GGeOnAenvyatime, Schengen visa. Jun–Sep FUEL Warm to hot summers, mild winters Warm to hot summers, cold winters Petrol stations are common Mild summers, cold winters on main roads and highways, Cold climate and in larger towns. Polar climate, below zero year round Unleaded costs around Sfr1.55 per litre and diesel is When to Go Sfr1.53. High Season (Jul–Aug & Dec–Apr) »»In July and August walkers and cyclists hit high-altitude trails. RENTAL CARS »»Christmas and New Year see serious snow-sports action on Auto Europe (www. the slopes. autoeurope.com) »»Late December to early April is high season in ski resorts. Avis (www.avis.com) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep) Europcar (www.europcar. »»Look for accommodation deals in ski resorts and traveller com) hotspots. Hertz (www.hertz.com) »»Spring is idyllic with warm temperatures, flowers and local IMPORTANT NUMBERS produce. Europe-wide emergency covering police, fire and »»Watch the grape harvest in autumn. ambulance (%112) Low Season (Oct–Mar) »»Mountain resorts go into snooze mode from mid-October to early December. »»Prices are up to 50% less than in high season. »»Sights and restaurants are open fewer days and shorter hours. 550

Daily Costs The following prices indicate Internet Access Budget: Less than the cost of a two-course set Sfr200 menu. Wi-fi (usually free) is available to »»Dorm bed: Sfr30–60 guests in most hotels, B&Bs and »»Free admission to some € less than Sfr25 hostels. Also offered by many €€ Sfr25–50 cafes, bars, train stations and museums on first Saturday or €€€ more than Sfr50 other public spaces. Sunday of every month Sleeping Money »»Lunch out (up to Sfr25) and Hotels From budget to luxury; ATMs widely available in cities self-cater after dark breakfast included unless and towns, rarely in villages. indicated. Cash is king almost everywhere; Midrange: Sfr200–300 Pensiones Chambres d’hôte credit cards are not widely »»Double room in two- or three- in French-speaking Switzerland; accepted. rates always include breakfast. star hotel: Sfr200–350 Hostels In cities and large Tipping towns; private or HI-affiliated. »»Dish of the day (tagesteller, Price symbols indicate the cost Tipping is not necessary, given of a double room with private that hotels, restaurants, bars plat du jour, piatto del giorno) bathroom in high season: and even some taxis are legally or fixed two-course menu: required to include a 15% service Sfr40–70 € less than Sfr170 charge in bills. €€ Sfr170–350 You can round up the bill after Top End: More than €€€ more than Sfr350 a meal for good service, as Sfr300 locals do. »»Double room in four- or five- Arriving in Switzerland Hotel and railway porters expect Zürich Airport a franc or two per bag. star hotel: from Sfr350 Bargaining is non-existent. Trains To Zürich centre, 6am to »»Lower rates Friday to Sunday midnight (Sfr7, 14 minutes). Useful Websites Taxis Sfr50 to Sfr70, 20 in city business hotels minutes to centre. Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips, »»Three-course dinner in an Mobile Phones (Cell accommodation, traveller Phones) forums and more. upmarket restaurant: from My Switzerland (www. Sfr100 Most European and Australian myswitzerland.com) Swiss phones function; turn off tourist board. Eating roaming to avoid data charges. ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving Buy a local SIM for cheaper information for Germany and Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. rates. neighbouring countries. Bistros Light meals to full- blown dinners. Restaurants Simple eateries to Michelin-starred temples. Vegetarian Few wholly vegetarian places, limited choices on most menus. 551

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Jardin Anglais YOUR LEGS GENEVA Before strolling up the hill to the Old Town, visit the flower clock in Geneva’s Start: Jardin Anglais waterfront garden (Quai du Général-Guisan), Finish: Place du Bourg-de-Four landscaped in 1854 on the site of an old Distance: 2km lumber-handling port and merchant Duration: Three hours yard. The Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock), Geneva’s most photographed clock, is Geneva’s beautiful Old Town (Vieille crafted from 6500 plants and has ticked Ville) is the perfect spot for a since 1955. Its second hand, 2.5m long, is charmingly edifying stroll, thanks to claimed to be the world’s longest. its mix of sights and a history lesson worthy of its status as one of the The Walk » From the clock, cross Quai du Protestant Reformation’s key cities. Général-Guisan. Head south through the shopping Take this walk on Trip district to Cour de St-Pierre, which faces the cathedral. It’s about a seven-minute stroll. } Cathédrale St-Pierre Begun in the 11th century, Geneva’s cathedral (www.espace-saint-pierre.ch; Cour de St-Pierre; admission free, towers adult/ child Sfr5/2; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Oct- May) is predominantly Gothic with an 18th-century neoclassical facade. Be- tween 1536–64 Protestant John Calvin preached here; see his uncomfortable- looking seat in the north aisle. Inside the cathedral, 77 steps spiral up to the attic – a fascinating glimpse at its architectural construction – from where another 40 lead to the top of the panoramic northern and southern towers (adult/child Sfr5/2). Views of the Old Town and the Jet d’Eau are marvellous. In summer, free carillon (5pm) and organ (6pm) concerts fill the cathedral and its surrounding square with music. The Walk » Exit the cathedral and head for the Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St-Pierre; a few dozen footsteps should cover it. Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St-Pierre This small archaeological site (%022 310 29 29; www.site-archeologique.ch; Cour St-Pierre; adult/child Sfr8/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in the basement of Cathédrale St-Pierre has 4th- century mosaics in the Roman crypt and the tomb of an Allobrogian chieftain. Its 552

e# 0 Pl du Q du Général-Guisa#.n Jardin 0 Anglais L&200 m 0.1 miles Pl de la Fusterie # Jardin Anglais R de la Cité Molard Pl du R Versonnex R de la Corraterie R du Marché R Neuve du Molard Port R du Rhône Bd du Théâtre Gran R de la Madeleine Pl Longemalle RMadîteRrleadRsusTdeoPuruirP-nocret R de Rive d-K&RamBPpaaesrdct#eidolaenRTssPrdreoeimRllleaeuneCadreoCdixeR-asRSBdtotah-usuPtgéiPoieenudrsirtresaldeIBneoSRtleSutaMo-rrlPnRgeutieiPa-élsle-ddLtélfraeieoeroVvc-reianFlemn#le#aotde#luSCuriSCat#tote-uhPrAiéeddrrercrehaRéleoCSlhotag-rPilqeiRseuBddreGdauriJnaedVaellqieaeunueldxsa-CDoalllècgroeze Fontaine R du Général Dufour Pl la Neuve R de R Ver R de l'Hô R du Conseil-Général e R de la Fontaine entrance is at the right of the cathedral’s longest bench. Turn down Rampe de la Treille and main portico. follow it to the park’s gates. The Walk » Head to the other side of the Parc des Bastions cathedral (a one-minute walk) to spend an hour at It’s all statues – plus free life-size chess the Reformation Museum. boards hosting lively games – in green Parc des Bastions. A laid-back stroll Musée International de with locals along its tree-lined prom- la Réforme enade reveals the 4.5m-tall po-faced figures of Bèze, Calvin, Farel and Knox This modern museum (%022 310 24 on Reformation Wall, which stretches 31; www.musee-reforme.ch; Rue du Cloître 4; for 100m. There are play facilities for adult/child Sfr13/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in kids and a skating rink in winter. an 18th-century mansion has state-of- the-art exhibits on the Reformation: The Walk » From Promenade des Bastion’s printed bibles, the emergence of 16th- century Geneva as ‘Protestant Rome’, eastern end, walk along Rue St-Léger. Continue John Calvin and present-day Protes- under the bridge and ahead until Place du Bourg- tantism. A combined ticket covering de-Four ends at the fountained terrace area. the museum, Cathédrale St-Pierre and Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St- Place du Bourg-de-Four Pierre is Sfr18/10 per adult/child. Eateries, bars and locals crowd Place The Walk » From Cour de St-Pierre, walk down du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva’s oldest square. In summer, it’s filled to burst- Rue Otto Barblan. Turn left onto Rue du Puits- ing with gossiping local denizens. St-Pierre and continue past Maison Tavel (the Stalwart La Clémence (%022 312 24 98; city’s longest-standing private residence, now a www.laclemence.ch; Place du Bourg-de-Four 20; museum) to the bottom of Rue Henri Fazy, which h7am-1am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat) is overlooks Parc des Bastions and has the world’s a popular place to linger over a coffee. 553



Austria AUSTRIA IS A ROAD-TRIPPERS FANTASY LAND. Not only are there spectacular backdrops of spellbinding landscapes and storybook architecture, but opportunities abound to get out and experience them. Along these routes, you can scale soaring peaks, ski year-round, raft white-water rapids and pelt down toboggan runs. When you’ve had enough thrills and spills, Austria’s multitude of cultural pursuits span medieval castles to monumental palaces, art- filled museums and magnificent churches. You can taste cheese at Alpine dairies, schnapps at distilleries, and beer and wine in monasteries where they’re still made by monks. Or just hop aboard a horse-drawn carriage to clip-clop through cobbled, lamp-lit city streets. Grossglockner Road Heiligenblut IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

#\\ Weissenburg Regensberg Frauenau Vitava Altmühltal #\\ \\# Nature Park /·#] Regen Ingolstadt A3 Austria \\# \\# #\\ Straubing Grafenau /·E45 \\# Landshut (DaDnounbaeu) #\\Tittling GERMANY Passau ]#Augsburg FG\\# 40 #\\ Schärding \\# Braunau ·/A7 #^ Munich Burghausen \\# am Inn Wels \\# Memmingen #\\ Fünfseenland Landsberg #\\ Ammersee#\\ am Lech Wurmsee Rosenheim Chiemsee \\# #\\ Salzburg /· GF ·/ ·/ /· GF ¸0/· GF0¸#\\FGSLCetaoalnkdl#\\#\\lesekCVt\\#inarahcnAduh1cu4re#^z#\\BDraeL#\\Kvigone3\\#sgme9e\\#npnztae#\\unIs\\##\\chglL#\\aZn(ud2ge9#\\FSsc6üpök3siltmdszee#\\e)\\#nnRU#\\KPmre#\\aGAhbr1atas2erubnmsakeci#]IisnhrnccnhhAs-1e3bnruMcEa4k5yrh#\\\\#oKfAuefsnsKctihetzai#\\nHNbuüaoGhthiereooln\\#Ts#\\aasSlgu(PLl3te3oa7irJec99nroBknk8hnezRmnrecnr\\#)h#\\\\#tN#\\eSFGPsaugBuasa\\#telcdft#]reahecllndhteBAe1n15s08gaHd3aBe91lnl6s6t\\#a\\#GtT#\\\\#tRmaBemüanAB#\\\\#nsdnuawdwIdssesecgeghel #\\ Merano \\# SWITZERLAND NPaarzcioonale #\\ #\\ Bressanone Oberdrauburg#\\ /·Spittal an B98 Moritz dello Stelvio #\\St Parco Naturale der Drau Fanes-Sennes- Villa#\\ch Braies \\# Bormio #\\ ITALY Arta Ter\\#me #\\ Bolzano Tarvisio ·/E45 \\# Predazzo R \\# Triglav Parco (2864m) dell'Adamello \\# #\\ #\\ #\\ #\\ \\# #\\ ~ Grossglockner Road 5–7 Days ¤ Along the Dan\\#ube 2–4 Days Twist and turn along three of Aus- Follow the Danube River as it flows tria’s most spectacular mountain passes. through forests and vineyards. (p569) (p559) 556

eCZECH REPUBLIC # 0 100 km DON'T 0 50 miles MISS #\\ České Znojmo ·/E65 Hodonin Lake Swimming Budějovice #\\ #\\ Many of Austria’s Břeclav \\# Alp-framed lakes reach Olsinsky Gm#\\und ·/E49 temperatures of up to Rybnik Horn 28°C in summer. Dive \\# ~into one on Trip #\\ Salzburg #\\ #\\ Freistadt Zwettl Krems an Famed for its starring der Donau role in The Sound of Bad #\\ Kefermarkt Stockerau SLOVAKIA Music, Salzburg’s Leonfelden #\\ \\# BRATISLAVA Unesco-listed Altstadt GF40 /·S33 VIENNA (old town) is a treasure. #] Linz /·A1 #_ _# Visit on Trip ~ #\\ ^# \\# Pöchlarn St Pölten #\\ \\# Traun ·/E60 \\# Hiking Amstetten #\\ \\# Steyr Through forests, up Waidhofen\\# Gaming #\\ Alland Wiener NeuLsaikede ler waterfa#\\ll trails, down Lilienfeld Neustadt Sopron gorges, along wildflower- \\# strewn meadows…You’ll \\# find some of Austria’s NKatailoknaalplpeanrk #\\ Mariazell #\\ ~best hiking on Trip Göstling #\\ #\\ Gloggnitz \\# Vienna ·/Liezen S31 \\# Oberpullendorf With its resplendent AUSTRIA Murzzuschlag #\\ palaces, magnificent museums and opera \\# house, Austria’s capital is the belle of the Leoben \\# Oberwart country’s ball. Waltz by Bruck Unzmarkt- ·/#\\ Sarvar on Trip ¤ Frauenburg Hartberg #\\ \\# B55 \\# \\# #\\ Peggau Gleisdorf #\\ Graz \\# #\\ Szombathely HUNGARY ¸0Murau B317 #] ·/ ·/Friesach\\# Treibach- E66 #\\ #\\ Althofen E57 Feldbach #\\ Deutschlandsberg \\# Zalaegerszeg \\# St Andrä Klagenfurt #\\ Völkermarkt \\#Redics #\\ ]# Maribor \\# Ravne na Nagykanizsa ·/B82 Koroškem \\# SLOVENIA ur Bled #\\ Celje MCROATIA FEEL GOOD STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©! Salzburg View over the city 557

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TRANCEDRUMER / SHUTTERSTOCK © Grossglockner 39Road Austria’s most exhilarating trip takes you on a wild roller-coaster drive over three legendary Alpine passes and packs in outdoor activities from year-round skiing to windsurfing and white-water rafting. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS 644 KM / 401 MILES 335 km Gerlos Alpine Road GREAT FOR… Sing along the yodel hiking trail J lL BEST TIME TO GO # Salzburg The peak time to Km ## 7 #4 tackle this trip is # Bregenz midsummer. #10 Innsbruck # I ESSENTIAL Lienz PHOTO Europe’s highest waterfalls, the three- tiered Krimmler Wasserfälle. Silvretta High Alpine Grossglockner High K BEST FOR Road Alpine Road DRIVERS Mountains reflect in Traverse Austria's the aquamarine highest mountain The Grossglockner’s reservoir 36 heart-in-your-mouth 225 km hairpin bends. 526 km Grossglockner High Alpine Road Alpine meadow 559

39 Grossglockner \\# Dachau Road Fair warning: if you’re a faint-hearted driver (or passenger), this probably isn’t the trip for you. (Take the gentler Tyrol & Vorarlberg route instead). But if you’re up for a serious adventure, this Austrian classic provides an opportunity to experience epic scenery, invigorating Alpine sports, and dizzying mountain passes with so many switchbacks they’re used by high- performance car manufacturers and championship race drivers as test #\\ tracks. e# 0 50 km 0 25 miles Fünfseenland Ammersee #\\ \\# Memmingen #\\ Landsberg Kaufbeuren \\# Bad am Lech Wurmsee Waldsee #\\ GF35 \\# Weilheim #\\ Leutkirch Marktoberdorf \\# Schongau \\# Ravensburg \\# \\# GERMANY Wieskirche #\\ Kempten \\# Friedrichshafen #\\ Wangen Bannwaldsee Oberammergau #\\ \\# \\# Kochel \\# Füssen \\# Garmisch- KmRo\\#mKarnesuhzolrinng#\\eCnonLsatkaencLeinda\\#u Alpsee Nesselwan\\#g #\\ Partenkirchen Arbon\\# #1^#2 Bregenz Sonthofen #\\ #\\ ¸0Dornbirn \\# Lingenau \\# B190 \\# Egg Mittenwald #\\ Zugspitze R #\\ #\\# 11 Rappenlochschlucht St Gallen Krebsbach #\\ Seefeld Appenzell \\# Hohenems \\# Mittelberg #\\ ##]9 Nesslau Feldkirch /·Innsbruck A13 Imst\\# ·/A12 ¸0/·#\\ #\\ B183 A14 LIECHTENSTEIN ‚ Walensee Bludenz Umhausen #\\ 0¸ ¸0 444H#30kmto #\\\\# Landeck GF38 #\\ # Stubaital #\\ Schruns Längenfeld \\# R B188 B188 GStlaucbiaeir p566 Grauspitze Vipiteno#\\ Sölden #\\ 44 4444SWITZERLAND #\\Landquart #Partenen \\# Ischgl #\\ 10 Silvretta High Alpine Road 444 4444\\#Chur \\# Davos 444Swiss 4 4 4\\# Merano #\\ National #\\ Park #\\ \\#

1 Salzburg ing to hidden courtyards Beyond city stroll- and medieval squares ing, there are plenty of Salzburg’s trophy sights framed by burgher opportunities to get huddle in the pedestri- houses and baroque active, from swimming anised, Unesco World fountains. You’ll also see at Freibad Leopoldskron Heritage–listed Altstadt plenty of icons from the (Leopoldskronstrasse 50; (old town). The tangled evergreen musical The adult/concession €4.60/2.60; lanes are made for a ser- Sound of Music. h9am-7pm May–mid-Sep), endipitous wander, lead- Salzburg’s biggest lido, with diving boards, water LINK slides and volleyball, to AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road YOUR hiking up Salzburg’s rival TRIP mountains, the 540m Mönchsberg and 640m achau z The Romantic } Geneva to Kapuzinerberg. Both Road Zürich mountains are thickly wooded and criss-crossed Strike north after Mountains, pastures, by walking trails, with Innsbruck to find a lakes and small-town photogenic views of the ribbon of historical charm, book-ende#\\d by quaintness running #\\ Switzerland’s biggest \\# through Bavaria’s cities.. \\# western reaches. Vöcklamarkt \\# Vöcklabruck \\# Ll #\\ ##]1 Salzburg \\# St Gilgen Gmunden Rosenheim Schloss \\# Herrenchiemsee \\# Bad Tölz Bad Reichenhall \\# \\# Bad Ischl Unterse#\\e \\# #\\ Hallein Berchtesgaden \\# Kuchl #\\ #\\ Golling ¸0Berchtesgaden NP B159 \\# Kufstein Wörgl \\#St Johnn #Werfen 2 #\\ \\# Saalfelden #\\ Jenbach Kitzbühel \\# Sankt Schladming \\# Johann #5 Zell am See #\\ Tamsweg #\\ ¸0 ¸0 ¸0 ¸0·/ #A12\\#Watt#\\SecnhswaBz169#\\AschGauerlRoso7aAdlpB1in65e Uttendorf B311 #\\ Rennweg #\\ \\# B168 #\\ Bruck Bramberg \\# Fusch B107 ¸0 ¸0#Zell am 8 B165 ·/A10 44444 44#Ziller \\#Mayrhofen 6 AUSTRIA #\\ Bad Krimmler Grossglockner Hofgastein # Grossglockner \\#4 High Alpine Road 4444444444Wasserfälle (3798m)R \\# Kals 44444444¸0 44\\# ITALY Hohe Tauern B1#\\07 #\\ Obervellach \\#Gmünd NaPtaiorknal Ainet #\\ #\\ Winklern #\\ ##\\ 4Brunico \\#3 Spittal an #\\ der Drau ·/Lienz E66 #\\ #\\ #\\ \\# Oberdraubur#\\g Techendorf Sillian Obe#\\rtilliach \\# Kötschach \\# Bressanone Parco 561 Naturale Fanes- Sennes-Braies \\# #\\ \\# \\# \\# \\# #\\ #\\

AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road Altstadt’s right bank and (which you can visit on a trip €34.50/24.50; hMay-early left bank, respectively. through the Carinthian Lakes) Nov) swings giddily and turn west onto the B100/ around 36 switchbacks, The Drive » It’s 47km south E66 through the Drau Valley to passing jewel-coloured Lienz (166km in total). lakes, forested slopes and from Salzburg on the B159 above-the-clouds glaciers to Werfen, mostly along the 3 Lienz as it traverses the heart Salzach River. After passing of the Hohe Tauern through a wide valley, you’ll Ringed by Dolomite peaks National Park, peaking at enter a tight, steep gorge; follow blushing reddish-pink at the bell-shaped Gross- it until Werfen. sunset, Lienz straddles glockner (3798m), Aus- the Isel and Drau Rivers, tria’s highest mountain. 2 Werfen and lies just 40km north of Italy. An ancient Roman En route, flag-dotted More than 1000m above settlement, today it’s a Werfen in the Tennenge- famed ski town (for its Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe birge mountains is Eis- Zettersfeld and Hochstein (2369m) has memorable riesenwelt (www.eisriesen peaks, and especially its views of Grossglockner welt.at; adult/child €11/6, incl 100km of cross-country and the rapidly retreat- cable car €22/12; h8am- trails), but it has an ener- ing Pasterze Glacier (best 3.45pm May-Oct, to 4.45pm Jul getic vibe year-round. appreciated on the short & Aug). Billed as the world’s and easy Gamsgrubenweg largest accessible ice caves, If you want to get and Gletscherweg trails). this glittering ice spectacle up into the mountains, Allow time to see the spans 30,000 sq metres Bergstatt (%0516-5835; glacier-themed exhibition and 42km of narrow pas- www.bergstatt.at; Kranewitweg at the visitor centre and sages burrowing deep into 5; rock climbing trips per adult/ the crystalline Wilhelm- the heart of the moun- child from €75/55) has guides Swarovski observatory. tains. A highlight is the who can lead you on half- cavernous Eispalast (ice day, full-day and multiday Get your camera handy palace), where the frost rock-climbing, via ferrata for Fuscher Törl (2428m), crystals twinkle when a or summit trips. with super views on both magnesium flare is held up sides of the ridge, and to them. Wrap up warmly The Drive » Take the B107 Fuscher Lacke (2262m), a for subzero temperatures. gemstone of a lake nearby. Photography is not permit- north, passing picturesque A small exhibition docu- ted inside the caves. villages including Winklern ments the construction (with a wonderful Alpine hotel; of the road, built by 3000 On a wooded clifftop p567) and Heiligenblut (look men over five years during beneath the majestic peaks for the needle-thin spire of the Great Depression. of the Tennengebirge its pilgrimage church) to the range, formidable fortress Grossglockner High Alpine Road A 2km side road cork- Burg Hohenwerfen (adult/ toll gates (43km in total). screws up to Edelweiss child/family €11/6/26.50, incl lift Spitze (2571m), the road’s €14.50/8/34.50; h9am-5pm TRIP HIGHLIGHT highest viewpoint. Climb Apr-Oct; c) dates from 1077. the tower for 360-degree Time your visit to be at the 4 Grossglockner views of more than 30 castle by 3.15pm for the High Alpine Road peaks topping 3000m. falconry show. A stupendous feat of Between toll gates, all 4 p567 1930s engineering, the attractions are free. Check 48km Grossglockner the forecast before you The Drive » Take the A10 Road (www.grossglockner. hit the road, as the drive at; Hwy 107; car/motorcycle is not much fun in heavy south to the Millstätter See 562

fog, snow or a storm. It’s TOP TIP: often bumper-to-bumper ALPINE ROAD TOLLS by noon, especially in July and August; beat the Be aware that this trip’s three top-draw drives – crowds by setting out early. Grossglockner High Alpine Road, Gerlos Alpine Road and Silvretta High Alpine Road (p566) – incur The Drive » Descend the tolls. There’s also a smaller toll on the detour to the Stubaital (p566). Toll booths accept cash and credit Grossglockner on the B107 cards. to Bruck and take the B311 northeast to Zell am See. It’s 4km one way (about a begin at 10.30am every AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road 2½-hour round-trip walk). Wednesday from late 5 Zell am See June to mid-September at The Drive » From the falls, it’s the Dorfbahn (adult/child Resort town Zell am See’s €9/4.50) cable-car station; brightly painted chalets 7.7km (and eight hairpin bends) to reserve by 5pm the previ- line the shore of the deep- the Gerlos Alpine Road toll gates. ous day by phone. blue Zeller See, framed by the Hohe Tauern’s TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Drive » Continue west snowcapped peaks. 7 Gerlos Alpine Road on the B165, passing the Mountain breezes reservoir Durlassboden, before create ideal conditions Open year-round, the descending to Zell am Ziller for windsurfing on the Gerlos Alpine Road (www. along six hairpin bends (63km lake; Windsurfcenter Zell gerlosstrasse.at; toll per car/ in total). Am See (%0664-644 36 95; motorcycle €8.50/5.50) winds http://windsurfcenter.members. 12km through high moor 8 Zell am Ziller cablelink.at; Seespitzstrasse 13; and spruce forest, reach- windsurfing/SUP/wetsuit rental ing an elevation of 1630m. At the foot of knife-edge per hr €10/8/3; hdawn-dusk The lookout above the Reichenspitze (3303m), May-Sep) rents equipment turquoise Stausee (reser- Zell am Ziller is a former and runs courses. voir) is a great picnic stop, gold-mining centre and with a tremendous vista of popular ski base. The Drive » From the lake, the Alps. Year-round, you can it’s 54km to the Krimmler If you have the urge to take a wild toboggan ride Wasserfälle. Head west on the burst out into song as you on the 1.45km-long Arena B168 and B165 to Krimml; skip through wildflower- Coaster (www.zillertalarena. when you arrive in the town the strewn meadows, take com; Zillertal Arena; adult/ waterfalls come into view. the 4.8km-long Jodel child coaster only €4.80/2.90, Wanderweg (Yodel Hiking incl cable car €20.90/10.40; 6 Krimmler Trail; %06565-82 43; www. h9.30am-6pm late Jun-early Wasserfälle jodelweg.at) in Königsleiten. Sep, shorter hours rest of year; You can go it alone and c), which incorporates Europe’s highest falls, at practise your high notes both a 360-degree loop 380m, are the thunder- at eight stops with giant and a 540-degree loop. It’s ous, three-tier Krimmler cowbells, alpine horns accessible by cable car, or Wasserfälle (Krimml Falls; and listen-repeat audio a steep 1.5km walk. www.wasserfaelle-krimml.at; clippings. Alternatively, adult/child €3/1; hticket office join a free guided sing Aktivzentrum Zillertal 8am-6pm mid-Apr–Oct). The ’n’ stroll hike with trail (%0664-505 95 94; www. Wasserfallweg (Waterfall founder Christian Eder. aktivzentrum-zillertal.at; Trail), which starts at the The three-hour ambles Freizeitpark Zell; c) offers ticket office and weaves up- hill through mixed forest, has up-close viewpoints. 563

PAUL BIRIS / GETTY IMAGES © VIEW PICTURES / CONTRIBUTOR / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP CATHERINE LE NEVEZ, WRITER Awe-inspiring mountainscapes and adrenaline-pumping activities abound on this alpine itinerary, but the ultimate draw is the drive itself, peaking with its trio of dizzying high-altitude switchback passes – the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, Gerlos Alpine Road and Silvretta High Alpine Road. This is a route that reminds you that the highlight of road-tripping isn’t the destination but the journey. Top: Racing along Grossglockner High Alpine Road Left: Bergisel ski jump in Innsbruck Right: Krimmler Wasserfälle (Krimml Falls)

AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Roadparagliding (€55 to €130), white-water rafting on HSVRS / GETTY IMAGES © the Ziller (€35), canyoning (€35 to €65), via ferrata climbing (€45 to €85) and llama trekking (€20). 4 p567 The Drive » Zell am Ziller sits 60km from Innsbruck. Take the B169 north then the A12 west. 9 Innsbruck Hit Innsbruck’s cultural at- tractions, then head up to its ski jump, the Bergisel (www.bergisel.info; adult/child €9.50/4.50; h9am-6pm), for a spectacular city and mountain panorama. Ris- ing above Innsbruck like a celestial staircase, the glass-and-steel structure was designed by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid. Hadid also designed the space-age funicular Nordkettenbahnen (www. nordkette.com; one-way/return to Hungerburg €4.60/7.60, Seegrube €16.50/27.50, Hafelekar €18.30/30.50; hHungerburg 7am-7.15pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7.15pm Sat & Sun, Seegrube 8.30am-5.30pm daily, Hafelekar 9am-5pm daily), which whizzes from the Congress Centre to the slopes every 15 minutes. Walking trails head off in all directions from Hun- gerburg and Seegrube. 5 4 p567 The Drive » Leave Innsbruck on the westbound A12 and veer southwest on the B188, passing a string of ski towns, to the Silvretta High Alpine Road toll gates (118km all up). 565

AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road TRIP HIGHLIGHT DETOUR: STUBAITAL a Silvretta High Alpine Road Start: 9 Innsbruck (p565) Silhouetted by the Sil- Slip out of sandals and into skis at year-round skiing vretta range and crowned magnet, Stubai Glacier. A one-day summer ski pass by the 3312m arrow of Piz (www.stubaier-gletscher.com) costs €43/21.50 per adult/ Buin, the Montafon Valley child and covers 26 lifts accessing 62km of slopes. Ski remains one of the most or snowboard and boot rental costs around €30/15 serene and unspoilt in the per adult/child. Summer skiing is between 2900m Austrian Alps. and 3300m and is dependent on weather conditions. The 23km-long Sil- Lower down in the Stubai Valley, the vretta High Alpine Road Wildewasserweg waterfall trail wends for 9.2km (www.silvretta-bielerhoehe. (one way) to Sulzenau Glacier. En route, it passes at; car/motorcycle €15/12; the spectacular Grawa falls; there’s a cafe with a hearly Jun-late Oct) twists panoramic viewing deck at its base. and turns beneath peaks rising to well over 2500m The Stubai Glacier is just 38km south of before climbing over the Innsbruck. Take the A13 south to the toll gates (per 2036m Bielerhöhe Pass via car including passengers €3); keep right to take the 34 tight switchbacks. At B183 southwest along the valley. the top of the pass, the Sil- vretta Stausee (2030m), 19th-century cotton mill Germany, to the left, an aquamarine reservoir, is the unlikely home of the Switzerland. mirrors the surrounding world’s largest collection peaks on bright mornings. of Rolls-Royces at the A cable car (www. Rolls-Royce Museum (www. pfaenderbahn.at; Steinbruch- The Drive » It’s 100km to rolls-royce-museum.at; Gütle 11a; gasse 4; one-way adult/child adult/child €9/4.50; h10am- €7.10/5.70, return €12.20/9.80; Rappenlochschlucht. Continue 6pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm h8am-7pm Dec-Oct) glides on the B188 and join the A14 Tue-Sun Feb-Jun & Sep-Nov). up the Pfänder. At the at aromatic Bludenz. Continue top, a 30-minute circular northwest to Dornbirn, from The Drive » Return to trail brings you close to where Rappenlochschlucht is deer, wild boar, ibex and 4km southeast on Gütlestrasse. Dornbirn and head north on the whistling marmots at the B190 for 16km to Bregenz. year-round Alpine Game b Rappenloch- Park Pfänder (www.pfaender. schlucht c Bregenz at; Pfänder; hsunrise-sunset). The Rappenlochschlucht Bregenz sits on the shores Some 5km south of cen- (Rappenloch Gorge; www. of Lake Constance (in Ger- tral Bregenz is the nature rappenlochschlucht.at) man, Bodensee), Europe’s reserve Rheindelta (www. was gouged out by the third-largest lake. The rheindelta.org). Its mossy thundering Dornbirner views here are extraor- marshes, reeds and wood- Ache. From the car park, dinary: before you the lands attract more than there’s a 375m trail to the mirror-like lake; behind 300 bird species, including Staufensee, a turquoise you, 1064m-high mountain curlews, grey herons and lake ringed by forest. the Pfänder, to the right, rare black-tailed godwits. At the bottom of the 5 4 p567 Rappenlochschlucht, a 566

Eating & Sleeping Werfen 2 Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun) Take a gastronomic walk on the wild side at this modern-day hunter- 4 Weisses Rössl Pension € gatherer of a restaurant, where chefs take pride in local sourcing and using top-notch farm-fresh (%06468-5268; Markt 39; s/d €30/52) In the and foraged ingredients. The menu sings of the seasons, be it asparagus, game, strawberries or village centre, this good-value pension has great winter veg. The vibe is urbane and relaxed. views of the fortress and the Tennengebirge AUSTRIA 39 Grossglockner Road from its rooftop terrace. Rooms are a blast from 4 Weisses Rössl Guesthouse €€ the 1970s, but all are large and cosy with sofas (%0512-58 30 57; www.roessl.at; Kiebachgasse and cable TV. 8; s €70-110, d €100-160; iW) An antique rocking horse greets you at this 16th-century Winklern guesthouse. The vaulted entrance leads up 4 Hotel Tauernstern Chalet €€ to spacious rooms recently revamped with blond wood, fresh hues and crisp white linen. (%04822-7205; www.tauernstern.at; Winklern The owner is a keen hunter and the restaurant 24, Winklern; s/d from €49/98; pW) (mains €10 to €18) has a meaty menu. Sweeping valley views extend from the timber balconies of this mountain-set gem. Four- Bregenz c poster pine-and-stone beds, in-room fridges, a sauna and spa built from local wood and 5 Gebhardsberg Austrian €€ slate, and an exceptional gourmet restaurant (%05574-908 61 60; www.greber.cc; using ingredients from local farms all make Gebhardsbergstrasse 1; mains €14-26.50; Tauernstern a fabulous pit stop before tackling h11.30am-10pm daily May-Sep, 11.30am-10pm the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. Tue-Sun Oct-Apr) Sweeping lake views taking Zell am Ziller 8 in Switzerland and Germany extend from the 4 Hotel Englhof Boutique Hotel €€ dining room and terrace of this hilltop castle (%05282-3134; www.englhof.at; Zellbergeben 1km south of the centre. Local specialities 28; s/d/tr/ste from €55/103/153/110; W) Beautiful blond-wood-panelled, white-linen- include Käsespätzle (hand-rolled noodles with dressed rooms (many with balconies) and amenities like free DVD rental make Englhof cheese) with traditional apple sauce and fried a superb place to stay. But what really seals the deal is its in-house gourmet restaurant onions, Lake Constance trout with almond and world-class cocktail bar with Austria’s second-largest collection of spirits (over 1400 butter and parsley potatoes, and white cheese varieties), mixing incredible cocktails like a Bloody Mary with frozen cherry tomatoes and strudel for dessert. CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption barbecued black-pepper seasoning. 4 Schwärzler Hotel €€ (%05574-4990; http://schwaerzler.s-hotels. com; Landstrasse 9; s/d from €122/153; pWs) This turreted, ivy-clad place is a far cry from your average business hotel. Contemporary rooms are done out in earthy hues and blond wood, with comforts including bathrobes, flat-screen TVs and minibars. Innsbruck 9 Regional produce from organic farms features on the breakfast buffet, and there’s a 400-sq- 5 Die Wilderin Austrian €€ metre pool and a sauna area. Parking costs €7. (%0512-56 27 28; www.diewilderin.at; Seilergasse 5; mains €11-18; h5pm-2am Tue- 567

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SYLVAIN GRANDADAM / GETTY IMAGES © Along the 40Danube Follow the beautiful Danube River as it flows from the German city of Passau by the Austrian border through farmland, forest and vineyard-streaked hillsides to Austria’s majestic capital, Vienna. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 293 km 2–4 DAYS Vienna 293 KM / 182 MILES 205 km View Vienna by foot, Dürnstein horse-drawn carriage GREAT FOR… Richard the Lionheart or Ferris wheel was imprisoned here in HB a now-ruined castle BEST TIME TO GO lL Krems an mK##_10 der Donau Aim for summer: Passau # many places close #7 # between November Linz #9 and March. # ! I ESSENTIAL PHOTO #4 Melk St Florian’s dazzling St Florian Stift Göttweig interior. Visit the abbey's This Unesco-listed exuberant basilica abbey serves its own K BEST FOR 92 km monk-made wines ART 219 km Passau Cruising the Danube River Linz’s contemporary Lentos gallery. 569

40 Along the 1 Passau Danube Just inside the German Immortalised in the stirring Blue Danube waltz border, Passau’s pastel- by Austrian composer Johann Strauss II, this shaded Altstadt (old magnificent river ripples with the reflections town) sits atop a narrow of green forests, hilltop castles, and ribbons of peninsula jutting into the vineyards, particularly on its prettiest stretch, confluence of three rivers: the Wachau, between Melk and Krems an der the Danube, the Inn and Donau. Along the river’s course are plenty the Ilz. Christianity gen- of surprises too, including the cutting-edge erated prestige as Passau city of Linz, and two monasteries producing, evolved into the largest \\# respectively, sublime beer and wine. bishopric in the Holy Ro- man Empire, as testified by the mighty cathedral Dom St Stephan (www. bistum-passau.de; Domplatz; h6.30am-7pm). Stroll the old town, which remains much as \\# Gmund Olsinsky CZECH Rybnik REPUBLIC 295 km to GERMANY GF‚35 /·E55 lL ¸0Passau Bad #\\ #\\ Freistadt Leonfelden #\\#1 B130 \\# Kefermarkt #2 Engelhartszell Sc\\#härdingan der Donau Inn 0¸B130 Enns 0¸ 0¸ # /·B131 A7 Mauthausen B127 Linz Memorial ]#3 /· #A1 5 /· ·/Traun A7 B3 Grein #\\ 0¸#Tr\\#aun L564 Donau #\\4 ¸0 /· /· /·E522 \\# A8 A25 St Florian \\# \\# Wels Ried im A1 Amstetten Innkreis Lambach Sierning #\\ Steyr \\# ·/144 #\\ #\\ Kremsmünster Vöcklamarkt Vöcklabruck Waidhofen #\\ \\# \\# /·115 17 km to Attersee Gmunden #\\ #\\ Molln #\\ #\\ Weyregg #\\ Nationalpark Kalkalpen GF39 Attersee Traunsee #\\ ‚ \\# Mondsee #\\ \\# Heckenau \\# Ebensee \\#

it was when the powerful breweries outside Belgium, prince-bishops built its and the only one in Aus- tight lanes, tunnels and 2 Engelhartszell an tria. At the 1293-founded archways with an Ital- der Donau abbey Engelszell (www. ianate flourish. stift-engelszell.at; Stiftstrasse The little riverside village 5 4 p575 of Engelhartszell an der 6; hchurch 8am-7pm Apr-Oct, The Drive » Cross the Inn Donau is home to one of only eight licensed Trappist to 5pm Nov-Mar, shop 9am-5pm River where it joins the Danube Apr-Oct, 10-11.30am & 2.30-4pm and head east on ST2125 which, LINK AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube 3.3km later, becomes the B130 YOUR on entering Austria, and follows TRIP the Danube’s southern bank. On your right, you’ll pass Burg Krempelstein, built on the site of a Roman watch house. It’s z ~The Romantic Grossglockner 26km all up to Engelhartszell an Road Road der Donau. Head west, skirting A hop and a skip south Munich, to this ribbon and you can twist of historical quaintness and turn along three running through of Austria’s most #\\ #\\ Bavaria’s western spectacular montian und reaches. passes. \\# Zwettl e# 0 40 km 0 20 miles /·E59 Krems an ·/E49 #Dürnstein der Donau #\\Feuersbrunn Stockerau 8 \\# #7 #\\ ·/B37 Donau #9 \\# \\# Spitz \\# Wachau Stift Tülln Klosterneuburg Göttweig B1 Vienna 0¸ /·L100 ·/ # /· ¸0 /· /· ·/ Km\\# # #IMelk #_10 Purkersdorf \\# p578 Marbach 6 St Pölten L120 B44 E60 B3 \\# A1 #\\ #\\ #^ B1 ·/Pöchlarn A1 Mödling #\\ \\# Hinterbrühl #\\ \\# Alland /·\\# B18 Baden #\\ \\# Hainfeld AUSTRIA Lilienfeld #\\ \\# Gaming Berndorf ·/E59 ·/B20 Wiener #\\ Neustadt \\# Lunz \\# #\\ Puchberg #\\ #\\ Mariazell \\# Göstling Gloggnitz Neunkirchen 571 \\# #\\

STIFT ST. FLORIAN/BEYERSat & Sun Nov-Mar), you can Mon-Sat, 8am-7.15pm Sun) is purchase monk-made a neo-Gothic giant of a AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube brews (dark Gregorius, cathedral with a riot of amber Benno, and blond pinnacles, flying buttresses Nivard); the shop also and filigree traceried on the B3. After 2.4km take sells liqueurs and cheeses windows. the L1411 for 2.5 signposted produced here. Adjoining kilometres to the Mauthausen the shop is the abbey’s 5 4 p575 Memorial (22km in total). gorgeous rococo church, completed in 1764. The Drive » Take the A1 5 Mauthausen Memorial The Drive » Take the B130; at southeast to Ebelsberg, then continue on the L564 to St Nowadays Mauthausen Aschach an der Donau, cross the Florian (21km all up). is a peaceful small town river on the B131, and continue on the north bank of the east to Ottensheim to join the TRIP HIGHLIGHT Danube, but during WWII B127 to Linz (52km in total). the Nazis turned the quar- 4 St Florian rying centre into the KZ 3 Linz Mauthausen concentra- Rising like a vision above tion camp. Prisoners were The Austrian saying In St Florian is its mag- forced into slave labour Linz beginnt’s (It begins nificent abbey, Augustiner in the granite quarry and in Linz) sums up this Chorherrenstift (www. many died on the so-called technology trailblazer. stift-st-florian.at; Stiftstrasse Todesstiege (stairway of Its leading-edge Ars 1; tours €8.50; h11am, 1pm & death) leading from the Electronica Center (www. 3pm May-early Oct). Dating quarry to the camp. Some aec.at; Ars Electronica Strasse 1; to at least 819, it has been adult/child €8/6; h9am-5pm occupied by the Canons Tue-Fri, to 9pm Thu, 10am-6pm Regular, living under Sat & Sun) has labs for Augustinian rule, since interacting with robots, 1071. Today its imposing animating digital objects, yellow-and-white facade is converting your name overwhelmingly baroque. to DNA and (virtually) travelling to outer space. Compulsory guided After dark, the LED glass tours of the abbey’s interi- skin kaleidoscopically or take in the resplendent changes colour. Directly apartments adorned with across the Danube is Linz’s rich stuccowork and fres- world-class contemporary- cos, including 16 emperors’ art gallery, the glass-and- rooms (once occupied by steel Lentos (www.lentos. visiting popes and royalty) at; Ernst-Koref-Promenade 1; and a galleried library adult/child €8/4.50, guided tours housing 150,000 volumes. €3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Thu), with works by The Stiftsbasilika Warhol, Schiele and Klimt, (h7am-dusk) is an exuber- among others. ant affair with an altar carved from 700 tonnes of But it’s not all new in pink Salzburg marble, and Austria’s third-largest a gold 18th-century organ. city: the Mariendom (Her- renstrasse 26; h7.30am-7pm The Drive » Head northeast on the L566 to join the B1. Follow it for 7.5km then turn east on the B123 to cross the Danube, before turning west 572

St Florian The beautiful pipe organ on display in the Stiftsbasilika 100,000 prisoners perished 6 Melk high octagonal dome. or were executed in the The baroque-gone-barmy camp between 1938 and Historically, Melk was of interior has regiments of 1945. The complex is now a great importance to the cherubs, gilt twirls and memorial (www.mauthausen- Romans and later to the polished faux marble. memorial.at; Erinnerungsstrasse Babenbergs, who built a The theatrical high-altar 1; admission incl guided tour €5, castle here. In 1089 the Ba- scene depicts St Peter and audioguide €3; h9am-5.30pm benberg margrave Leopold St Paul (the church’s two Mar-early Jul, 9am-5.30pm II donated the castle to patron saints). Tue-Sun early Jul-Oct, 9am-3pm Benedictine monks, who Tue-Sun Nov-Feb); English- converted it into the forti- The Drive » The Wachau is language audioguides fied Stift Melk (Benedictine relate its sobering history. Abbey of Melk; www.stiftmelk.at; the loveliest along the mighty It’s not recommended for Abt Berthold Dietmayr Strasse 1; river’s length: both banks here under 14s. adult/child €10/5.50, with guided are dotted with ruined castles tour €12/7.50; h9am-5.30pm and terraced with vineyards. The Drive » Travelling east for May-Sep, tours 11am & 2pm From Melk, follow the river Oct-Apr). Fire destroyed northeast along the nothern 76km brings you to Melk. Along the original edifice; today bank for 28km, passing medieval the river at Grein, look out for its monastery church villages Spitz, Wösendorf in der the dramatic castle Greinburg dominates the complex Wachau and Weissenkirchen, to rising to your left. with its twin spires and reach Dürnstein. 573

AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube TOP TIP: Stiftskirche (which has a DANUBE CRUISES Kremser Schmidt work in the crypt). Best of all Floating past vine-covered banks crowned by is the opportunity to sip castles gives you a different perspective of the river. wine made here by the From Passau, Wurm + Köck (%0851-929 292; www. monks – including an donauschiffahrt.de; Höllgasse 26) operates cruises between exquisite Messwein rosé – Regensburg, Germany, and Vienna from March to early on the panoramic garden November. One-way/return tickets for one stop start terrace above the valley from €10.50/11.50; 10-stop tickets start from €26/29. (you can also buy it at the abbey’s shop). TRIP HIGHLIGHT has an attractive cobbled centre and gallery-dotted The Drive » From Stift 7 Dürnstein Kunstmeile (Art Mile; www. kunstmeile-krems.at). Its flag- Göttweig, it’s 79km to Vienna. Picturesque Dürnstein ship is the Kunsthalle (www. The most scenic route, through is best known for the kunsthalle.at; Franz-Zeller-Platz farmland and forest, is south on Kuenringerburg – the 3; admission €10; h10am-5pm the L100 to St Pölten, then east now-ruined castle above Tue-Sun), a collection of gal- on the L120 to join the eastbound the town where Richard leries and museums, with B44 at Ebersberg. Continue the Lionheart (Richard I of changing exhibitions. through the Wienerwald to the England) was imprisoned Austrian capital. from 1192 to 1193, before 4 p575 being moved to Burg TRIP HIGHLIGHT Trifels (p178) in Germany. The Drive » Leave Krems a Vienna Of the 16th-century an der Donau on the B37 and buildings lining Dürn- cross the southbound L100. Renowned for its imperial stein’s hilly, cobbled Stift Göttweig is well signposted palaces, baroque interiors, streets, the Chorherren- (9km altogether from Krems). opera houses and mag- stift (www.stiftduernstein.at; nificent squares, Vienna is Stiftshof; adult/child €3/1.50; TRIP HIGHLIGHT also one of Europe’s most h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am- dynamic urban spaces. The 6pm Sun Apr-Oct) is the most 9 Stift Göttweig best way to experience its impressive. It’s all that blend of old and new is on remains of the former Surrounded by grape- a walking tour (p578). Augustinian monastery laden vines, Unesco World originally founded in 1410, Heritage–listed Stift A wonderfully atmos- and received its baroque Göttweig (Göttweig Abbey; pheric (if touristy) alterna- facelift in the 18th century. %02732-855 81-0; www.stift- tive is aboard a Fiaker (up to goettweig.at; Furth bei Göttweig; 4 passengers 20min/40min/1hr The Drive » Head east along adult/child €7.50/4; h9am- tour €55/80/110), which is 6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct- a traditional-style open the river on the B3 for 7.5km to May) was founded in 1083, carriage drawn by a pair reach Krems an der Donau. but the abbey you see of horses. Drivers point out today is mostly baroque. places of interest en route. 8 Krems an der Highlights include the Lines of horses, carriages Donau Imperial Staircase with and bowler-hatted drivers a heavenly ceiling fresco can be found at Stephans- Against a backdrop of painted by Paul Troger in platz, Albertinaplatz terraced vineyards, Krems 1739, and the over-the-top and Heldenplatz at the baroque interior of the Hofburg. Or survey the city from Vienna’s 65m-high, 1897-built Ferris wheel, the Riesenrad. It’s located at 574

Eating & Sleeping Passau 1 glass-and-concrete cube reveals streamlined interiors in pristine whites and blond wood that 5 Heilig-Geist-Stifts- reveal a Nordic-style aesthetic. Wind down with a view at the rooftop spa. Schenke Bavarian €€ (%0851-2607; www.stiftskeller-passau.de; Krems an der Donau 8 Heilig-Geist-Gasse 4; mains €10-20; h11am- 4 Arte Hotel Krems Design Hotel €€ AUSTRIA 40 Along the Danube 11pm, closed Wed; W) Not only does this (%02732-711 23; www.arte-hotel.at; Dr-Karl- Dorrek-Strasse 23; s/d €109/159; pW) historical inn have a succession of walnut- This cutting-edge art hotel has 91 large, well-designed rooms scattered with big retro panelled ceramic-stove-heated rooms, a prints and patterns complementing the funky ’60s-style furniture. candlelit cellar (from 6pm) and a vine-draped garden, but the food is equally inspired. Amid the river fish, steaks and seasonal dishes there are quite gourmet affairs such as beef fillet in flambéed cognac sauce. Help it all along with one of the many Austrian and German wines in stock. Vienna a 4 Hotel Schloss Ort Boutique Hotel €€ 5 Bierhof Austrian € (%0851-340 72; www.hotel-schloss-ort.de; (%01-533 44 28; http://bierhof.at; 01, Haarhof Im Ort 11; s €68-121, d €97-184; pW) This 800-year-old medieval palace by the Inn River 3; mains €10-19; h11.30am-11.30pm; W; conceals a tranquil boutique hotel, stylishly done out with polished timber floors, crisp white mHerrengasse) A narrow passageway opens cotton sheets and wrought-iron bedsteads. Many of the 18 rooms enjoy river views and to a courtyard where umbrella-shaded tables breakfast is served in the vaulted restaurant. Parking is an extra €4. beneath the trees make a charming spot to dine on homemade classics like Eiernockerl (flour- and-egg dumplings), Tiroler Groest’l (pork, potatoes and bacon, topped with a fried egg), Tiroler Leber (liver dumplings with apple sauce Linz 3 and green beans) and Weiner Schnitzel with parsley potatoes. The bar stays open until late. 5 k.u.k. Hofbäckerei Cafe € 4 Hotel Capricorno Hotel €€ (Pfarrgasse 17; coffee & cake €3-6; h6.30am- (%01-533 31 04-0; www.schick-hotels.com/ 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-12.30pm Sat) The Empire hotel-capricorno; 01, Schwedenplatz 3-4; s/d lives on at this gloriously stuck-in-time cafe. from €120/150; pW; mSchwedenplatz) Here Fritz Rath bakes the best Linzer Torte in Behind an unpromising mid-20th-century town – rich, spicy and with lattice pastry that facade, Hotel Capricorno was stunningly made crumbles just so. over in 2015 in lustrous velveteens in zesty lime, 4 Hotel am Domplatz Design Hotel €€ orange, lemon and aubergine shades. Most (%0732-77 30 00; www.hotelamdomplatz.at; of its 42 rooms have balconies (front rooms Stifterstrasse 4; d €125-145, ste €300; aiW) Sidling up to the neo-Gothic Neuer Dom, this overlook the Danube Canal but rear rooms are quieter). Rare-for-Vienna parking is available for just €23 per day. It’s a 10-minute walk from the Stephansdom. 575

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KNOW Climate CURRENCY Mild to hot summers, cold winters Euro (€) Warm to hot summers, mild winters Mild year-round LANGUAGE Cold climate German (see p520) GOKDJietuzcnb––üMShaeerpl & Salzburg Vienna # GO Jul & Aug GO Late Mar–Oct VISAS # # Generally not required for # stays of up to 90 days; # GGrOaAz pr–Oct some nationalities need a GOInDJneuscnb––rMSuaecrpk & Schengen visa. When to Go FUEL High Season (Apr–Oct) »»High season peaks from July to August. Petrol stations are common »»In lake areas, the peak is June to September. on main roads and highways, »»Prices rise over Christmas and Easter. and in larger towns. »»Salzburg is busiest in July and August for the Salzburg Unleaded costs around €1.50 per litre and diesel is Festival. €1.25. Shoulder (late Mar–May & late Sep–Oct) RENTAL CARS »»The weather’s changeable, the lakes are chilly and the hiking’s Auto Europe (www. excellent. autoeurope.com) »»Sights are open and less crowded. Avis (www.avis.com) Low Season (Nov–Mar) Europcar (www.europcar. »»Many sights are closed. com) »»There’s a cultural focus in Vienna and the regional capitals. »»Ski resorts open from mid-December. Hertz (www.hertz.com) »»High season for skiing is mid-December to March. IMPORTANT NUMBERS Europe-wide emergency covering police, fire and ambulance (%112) 576

Daily Costs Sleeping cafes, bars, train stations and Budget: Less than €80 other public spaces. »»Dorm beds or cheap doubles: Hotels From budget to luxury; breakfast included unless Money €25 per person indicated. Pensiones Rates always ATMs are widely available. »»Self-catering or lunch specials: include breakfast. Maestro direct debit and Visa Hostels In cities and large and MasterCard credit cards are €6–12 towns; private or HI-affiliated. accepted in most hotels and in Price symbols indicate the cost midrange restaurants. Expect to »»Cheap museums: €4 of a double room with private pay cash elsewhere. Travellers bathroom in high season: cheques are not accepted. Midrange: €80–160 »»Hotel singles: €60–90 per € less than €80 Tipping €€ €80–160 person €€€ more than €160 Restaurant and bar prices include a service charge but »»Two-course meal with glass of Arriving in Austria locals still tip. Taxis expect 10%. Vienna Airport wine: €30 Useful Websites Train & S-Bahn To city »»High-profile museums: €12 centre every 30 minutes, 6am Lonely Planet to 11.30pm (€4 to €12, 15 to 30 (lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips, Top end: More than €160 minutes). accommodation, traveller »»Plush suites and doubles in Taxis €35 to €50; 30 minutes forums and more. to centre. Austria (www.austria.info) major cities: from €200 Austrian tourist board. Mobile Phones (Cell ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving »»Pampering at spa facilities: Phones) information for Germany and neighbouring countries. €40–100 Most European and Australian phones function; turn off »»Fine dining and wine pairing: roaming to avoid data charges. Buy a local SIM for cheaper €70 rates. Eating Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. Bistros Light meals to full- blown dinners. Restaurants Simple eateries to Michelin-starred temples. Vegetarian Few wholly vegetarian places, limited choices on most menus. The following prices indicate the cost of a two-course set menu: € less than €15 Internet Access €€ €15–30 €€€ more than €30 Wi-fi (usually free) is available to guests in most hotels, B&Bs and hostels. Also offered by many 577

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Café Central YOUR LEGS VIENNA Park just around the corner on Freyung and fortify yourself with coffee and a Start/Finish: Café Central slice of Altenbergtorte cake at grand Café Distance: 3.4km Central (www.palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html; Duration: Four hours 01, Herrengasse 14; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; W; mHerrengasse). Vienna’s grandeur unfolds in all its glory on this city stroll, from The Walk » Walk southeast on Herrengasse for the timeless elegance of its Kaffeehäuser (coffee houses) to 350m, then through the Michaelertor palace gate its monumental Hofburg palace, to the imposing Hofburg. museums, parks and opulent opera house, as well as magnificent Hofburg churches. Nothing symbolises Austria’s culture and heritage more than the Hofburg (Imperial Palace; www.hofburg-wien.at; 01, Michaelerkuppel; g1A, 2A Michaelerplatz, mHerrengasse, jD, 1, 2, 71, 46, 49 Burgring), seat of the Habsburgs from 1273 to 1918. Its oldest section is the 13th-century Schweizerhof (Swiss Courtyard). The palace owes its size and architectural diversity to one-upmanship; sections were added by new rulers, including the Gothic Burgkapelle (Royal Chapel), early baroque Leopold Wing, 16th-century Amalia Wing and 18th- century Imperial Chancery Wing. The Walk » It’s a 750m stroll southwest through Heldenplatz, passing the twin museums Naturhistorisches and Kunsthistorisches on Maria-Theresien-Platz, to the MuseumsQuartier. MuseumsQuartier The MuseumsQuartier (Museum Quarter; www.mqw.at; 07, Museumsplatz; hinformation & ticket centre 10am-7pm; mMuseumsquartier, Volkstheater) is a remarkable ensemble of museums, cafes, restaurants and bars inside former imperial stables. With over 60,000 sq metres of exhibition space, the complex is one of the world’s most ambi- tious cultural spaces. The Walk » Head southeast through the MuseumsQuartier’s arched laneways to Mariahilfer Strasse. Turn left and continue 350m northeast to the Burggarten. Take this walk on Trip Burggarten ¤ The Burggarten (Castle Garden; www. bundesgaerten.at; 01, Burgring; h6am-10pm Apr- 578 Oct, 7.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar; mMuseumsquartier, jD, 1, 2, 71) is a leafy oasis amid the city’s hustle and bustle. The marble statue of Mozart is the park’s most famous tenant,

J% e000000000000000000§#000000000000000000SRpMaV000000000000000000ittSaothSerlacklitbuhasaesmhtdrhgiileeogfMearanlQtsrigub(JensS000000000000abueorsgustuaspe§#0000000000t00rRseRrltueatattf000000000000amhRt.teitzeheDar00000000000000000h000000000000000sartrfaThuol00000000000000000000000000000000euhyasnM’s#seuPp00000000000000000000000000000000¤#ph’rastllaaeaaop00000000000000000000000000000000rr#¤mlsttDRiauksazzi000000000000000000000000e0000000rreo-sik#¤nnKseSP0000000000000000000000000000000na-asV)ate,raBRr0o00000000000000000000000rstllad--§#lauhatRki000000000000000000000000ntramoesihgnntdgea00000000000M0000000000t00000000000ugSgahnuutarMeeB0000000000000000000000000t0000000scthssGapuehiseotene00000000000000000000000000000000000lnreueatmfgor/rtmP00000000000000000000000000000000000rerEzieiia/sndt000000000000000000000000000m00000000¤#eqtgelHImnutmnHB00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000peeNapaedulreerlidr000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000rbaterklrrneigtietreeo000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000nznhBlrnurpggaS000000000000000000000000000000000000CCun§##laFhcaJuHgraesh00000000000000000000000000#00000otrga#essBNzofnisanelgué0000000000000000000000000000000000000uelfetngeGasbfrruaros0000000000000000000000000000000000gzareupesptltSls000000000000000000000000000rhleaaeAgettngt000000000000000000000zamzaH&cMsa000000000000000000000saaHteNoDbsl0000000000000000000oansolbgof-yml00000000000000S0000000epr–asgeR0000000000#§tcK#ir,anhäS10000000#nga-rt3nG/et00000000d0zt.prO3anha#ipb#¤P0eraueerpennodrmstnio00000peMilSrtWcaa00000Ko#§sutahuraAzkn00000ulllrJe;niflsgoriyrnmsH00000000000ecs9hcairt–ha-mhg00000000000sr1nSeagt1nmrnt00000000000sa.e3esisEepcS0se00000000000silghpkstaeSaoe00000000000af#mnWSoSscntncresai000000000000000000000ek-sn&thiePh-mggppwi000000000000000000000bea1lmlhaau-arses4rt¤#0000000000tars-gtzdzt.erng3z)0000000000a,es0SSs0nisdopts.benW2emone5lfemroofngmllf-lszeitlel00000000s5Areiga0lmsaes000000000ssseem00000000He00000000um00000000arasse Herrengasse Herrengasse urgergKaoshslemarkt Kump fgasse AugustinerstrTegetthoffstr (BRuinrggrsintrgasse) Kärntner Str Museumstr Babenbergerstr Hegelgasse Operngasse kt bar, housed in a beautifully restored (Little Stephan). A church has stood here since the 12th century; reminders include Jugendstil (art-nouveau) palm house. the Romanesque Riesentor (Giant Gate) and Heidentürme. Inside, a magnificent The Walk » From the garden’s northeastern stone pulpit, sculpted in 1515, presides over the main nave. edge, walk southeast on Hanuschgasse for 200m to the city’s opera house, the Staatsoper. Staatsoper The Walk » Take Goldschmiedgasse northwest The neo-Renaissance Staatsoper for 230m to Petersplatz and the domed (www.wiener-staatsoper.at; 01, Opernring Peterskirche. 2; mKarlsplatz, jD, 1, 2, 71) is Vienna’s Peterskirche foremost opera and ballet venue. Built between 1861 and 1869, it initially ap- The Peterskirche (Church of St Peter; www. palled the Viennese public, earning the peterskirche.at; 01, Petersplatz; h7am-8pm Mon- nickname ‘stone turtle’. Performances Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; mStephansplatz) was here are unforgettable; you also can visit built in 1733 according to plans by the its museum and/or take a guided tour. celebrated baroque architect Johann Lu- kas von Hildebrandt. Interior highlights The Walk » Head north on Kärntner Strasse for include a fresco on the dome painted by JM Rottmayr and a golden altar depicting 600m to the Stephansdom, and pause to check the martyrdom of St John of Nepomuk. out the glorious tiled roof. Stephansdom The Walk » Head northwest on Graben and Vienna’s soaring, filagreed Gothic mas- Naglergasse for 200m. Turn left onto Haarhof for terpiece, the Stephansdom (St Stephan’s Ca- 90m, then right onto Wallnerstrasse for 80m; Café thedral; www.stephanskirche.at; 01, Stephansplatz; Central is in front of you. h6am-10pm Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun, main nave 579

BEHIND ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd THE SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK SCENES We love to hear from travellers – your comments help make our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet. com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-­ 44. Front cover photographs: (top) Neuschwanstein Castle, Courtesy of the Bavarian Palace Department, Noppasin/Shutterstock© (right) Marble statue, mrivserg/Shutterstock© (left) Citroen Dolly, Ken Scicluna/AWL© Back cover photograph: Cypress trees and red poppies, Tuscany, Buena Vista Images/Getty© THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced by the following: This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Europe’s Best Destination Editors Jo Cooke, Helen Elfer, Gemma Trips guidebook was curated by Belinda Dixon Graham, Lorna Parkes, James Smart, Anna Tyler and researched and written by Isabel Albiston, Oliver Berry, Stuart Butler, Kerry Christiani, Fionn Product Editor Tracy Whitmey Davenport, Belinda Dixon, Marc Di Duca, Peter Dragicevich, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Paula Hardy, Catherine Le Nevez, Sally O’Brien, Josephine Quintero, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Book Designer Clara Monitto Sainsbury, Andy Symington, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Nicola Williams and Neil Wilson. Cover Researcher Naomi Parker 580 Thanks to Bridget Blair, Victoria Harrison, Monique Perrin, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Luna Soo

©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd INDEX A Arranmore Island 349, 351 B Arromanches 136-7 Abbazia di Sant’Antimo 62 Ars Electronica Center 572 Bacharach 487-8, 489 Aberfeldy 268, 269 art 20, 83 Bad Karlshafen 512 Accademia Carrara 52 Ashmolean Museum 210 Badia a Passignano 58, 63 Agrigento 93, 98-9 Assarancagh Waterfall 350 Bains des Pâquis 542 Aix-en-Provence 129, 131, Astorga 408 Ballaghbeama Gap 336 Augsburg 498, 503 Ballater 263-4, 269 150 Augustiner Ballycarbery Castle 333 Aktivzentrum Zillertal 563 Ballycastle 343, 351 Alassio 104-5, 107 Chorherrenstift 572 Balmoral Castle 263 Aletsch Glacier 537-8 Austria 555-79 Barafundle Bay 286 Algarve Beaches 18, 459-69 Barcelona 384-5, 387, 442-3 Alicante 380-1, 386 accommodation 577 Bären Park 545 Aljezur 462 car hire 576 Basilica di San Marco 33, 83 Almería 376-7, 386 costs 577 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur Almuñécar 375-6 currency 576 Alpine Game Park emergencies 576 122-3 food 577 Bath 214, 242-3, 245, 294-5 Pfänder 566 fuel 576 Battistero 81 Altes Rathaus 522 internet access 577 Bayerisches Alt-Rothenburger language 576 mobile phones 577 Eisenbahnmuseum 495 Handwerkerhaus 494 money 577 Bayeux 125, 137-9, 141 Amalfi 69-71, 73 planning 576-7 Bayeux Tapestry 125 Amalfi Coast 12, 65-73 tipping 577 Beachy Head 239 Ambleside 248, 259 transport 577 Beaulieu 241 Amboise 191-2, 193 visas 576 Beauly 277 Andermatt 532 weather 576 Beauty Priory 276 Antibes 165-6, 172 websites 577 Bedruthan Steps 224 Aonach Eagach 272-3 wi-fi 577 Beethoven-Haus Bonn 482 architecture 20, 83 Auswandererhaus 514 Belfast 317-18, 326, 343 Ardmore 324 Avebury 213-14, 219, 242 Bellagio 49-50, 53 Arena (Verona) 82 Aviemore 265, 269 Ben Nevis 274 Argelès-Gazost 157 Ávila 418, 424 Bergamo 52, 53 Arles 147-9, 151 Azay-le-Rideau 188 Bergisel 565 Arosa 531 581

INDEX B-C Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe 509 Burg Maus 486 Castello di Ama 61 Bergstatt 562 Burg Rheinfels 486 Castello di Venere 92 Bern 545-6, 549 Burggarten 578-9 Castello di Verrazzano 57-8 Bertolt-Brecht-Haus 498 Burgos 406-7, 412, 422, 425 Castelvecchio 82 Biarritz 146-7 Burren 321-2 Castilla y León 415-25 Biot 167 Buttermere 253-4 Castrillo de los Blair Atholl 267, 269 Blair Castle 267 C Polvazares 408-9 Blausee 537 Castrojeriz 407 Blenheim Palace 243-4 Cabo de Gata 377 Catania 97, 99 Blois 192, 193 Cabo Fisterra 410 Cathédrale de Notre Bodenwerder 512-13 CabriO 547 Bodleian Library 210 Cacela Velha 468 Dame (Paris) 199 Bologna 35-6, 41 Caen 135, 141 Cathédrale Notre Dame Bonn 482 Caherconnell Fort 323 Bonnie Prince Charlie 273 Caherdaniel 310-11, 336 (Chartres) 124-5 Book of Kells 302 Cahergall 333 Cauterets 157-9, 161 Boppard 485-6 Cahersiveen 333-5 CERN 543 Bordeaux 125-7, 130-1 Cairngorm Mountain 264 Cetara 72 Borghese Palace 37 Cairngorms National Park chalk figures 210-11 Borrowdale 253-4 Chambord 125, 192 Bowness-on-Windermere 231-2, 233 Chamonix 128-9 Caldey Island 286 Champagne 175-83 248, 259 Caledonian Canal 274 Champagne Georges Braemar 263, 269 Cambridge 218, 219, 292-3 Brantwood 256 Camino de Santiago 402 Cartier 181 Braubach 483-4 Campo de’ Fiori 113 Chapelle du Rosaire 166 Brecon Beacons National Cannes 150, 165, 172 Chartres 124-5, 130 Cannobino 46-7 Château Comtal 147 Park 225, 233 Canterbury 238, 245 Château de Pau 155 Bregenz 566, 567 Capitoline Museums 37 Château de Versailles 124 Bremen 514, 517 Cappella degli châteaux (Loire) 13, 186-93 Bremerhaven 514-15 Chepstow 214-15 Bridge of Balgie 268 Scrovegni 33, 82 Cheverny 193 Bridge of Sighs 84 Cappella Palatina 91 Chinon 187, 193 Brighton 238, 245 Carcassonne 147 Chorherrenstift 574 Briones 431 Cardiff 214, 219 Christ Church Bristol 243, 245 Carmarthen 285 British Museum 210 Carrapateira 463 Cathedral 366 Brothers Grimm 512 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Church Island 335 Brüder Grimm-Haus 507 Cirque de Gavarnie 147, 157 Brunate 49 Bridge 318, 344 Cité de l’Espace 147 Brunelleschi, Filippo 36 Carrigart 348 Clifden 304, 312 Buckingham Palace 209 Cartagena 379, 386 Cliffs of Moher 304-7 Burg Hohenwerfen 562 Carvoeiro 466-7, 469 Cockermouth 254 Burg Katz 486 Casa Batlló 443 Col du Tourmalet 159 Casal de Loivos 455 Colline du Château 201 Casino de Monte Carlo 171 Cologne 480-1, 522-3 Colosseum 37, 76 582

Comarés 392 Dún Aengus 322, 360 Fintown Railway 350 INDEX C-F Como 47-9, 53 Dunbeg Fort 308 Florence 17, 36, 41, 56-7, 63, Conciergerie 199 Dunfanaghy 319, 326, 351 Coniston 256-7, 259 Duomo (Florence) 36, 79, 78-9, 86-7, 114-15 Cork City 324, 327 Foix 160, 161 Corniche de l’Estérel 166 114 Fondation Maeght 166 Costa del Sol 389-97 Duoro Valley 449-57 Fort Augustus 274 Coutances 140 Dürnstein 574-5 Fort William 273, 277 Covarrubias 422-3 Düsseldorf 480 Fortezza 62 Craigendarroch 263 France 117-201 Cramant 181-2 E Cremona 40 accommodation 195 Cromane Peninsula 332 Edinburgh 216-17, 219 business hours 195 Crummock Water 254 Eichstätt & the Altmühltal car hire 194 costs 195 D Nature Park 498 currency 194 Eisriesenwelt 562 emergencies 194, 196-7 da Vinci, Leonardo 32, 191 Elciego 431, 435 food 195 Danube cruises 574 Elegug Stack Rocks 286 fuel 194 Danube River 569-75 Elterwater 250 internet access 195 Dartmoor National Emmental Region 546-7 language 194, 196-7 Emmentaler mobile phones 195 Park 224, 233 money 194, 195 D-Day beaches 133-41 Schaukäserei 546 tipping 195 Delta de L’Erbe 381 Engelberg 532, 533 transport 195 Derry 345, 351 Engelhartszell an der Donau visas 194 Derrynane National Historic weather 194 571-2 websites 195 Park 310-11 Engelszell 571 wi-fi 195 Derwentwater 253 Ennis 307-8, 312-13, 354-6, Fraumünster 548 Dingle 308, 313, 322, 327 French language 196-7 Dinkelsbühl 495, 502 361 French Riviera 129, 163-73 Disentis Abbey 532 Ennistymon 356, 361 Freshwater West 286 Doctor Who Experience 214 Épernay 178-81, 183 Fribourg 544, 549 Doe Castle 348-9 Erice 91-2, 98 Friedensmuseum 482 Dog Falls 276 Eskdale 255 Frómist 407 Dom St Kilian 492 Estella 403 Fuengirola 393, 397 Dom St Petri 514 Estepona 396, 397 Fuente de Vino 403 Dom zu Fulda 508 Exmoor National Park 274-5 Fuggerei 498 Donauwörth 497-8 Èze 171, 173 Fulda 508 Doolin 322, 360, 361 Funicolare Como- Douro Valley 449-57 F Brunate 49 Dove Cottage 250 Funiculaire de Fribourg 544 Downings 351 Fahan 347 Fürstbischöfliche Drumnadrochit 275-6 Fährboot 487 Residenz 498 Dublin 302, 312, 316-17, 326, Falaise aux Vautours 156 Füssen 500, 503 Faro 467-8, 469 366-7 Feria de Malaga 385 Festung Ehrenbreitstein 483 Finale Ligure 104, 107 583

INDEX F-I Future Jüdisches Glen Lyon 268 H Museum 522 Glen Nevis 273-4 Glencolumbcille 350 Hadrian’s Wall 229-30 G Glenevin Waterfall 345-7, Hamelin 513, 517 Hanau 506, 507 Gaeilge language 364 351 Hanover 513-14 Galleria degli Uffizi 36, Gletscherschlucht 535 Harburg 495-6 Gold Beach 136 Hardknott Pass 255-6 79, 115 Gorges du Verdon 129 Haro 430-1 Galleria dell’Accademia Gornergratbahn 537 Harry Potter movies 273 Göttingen 511-12, 517 Hautvillers 178 (Florence) 36, 114 Gower Heritage Centre 282 Hawkshead 257-8, 259 Gallerie dell’Accademia Grasmere 250, 259 Haystacks 254 Grasse 170 Healy Pass 324 (Venice) 33 Great Britain 203-295 Heiligtum der Isis und Mater Galway City 302-4, 312, accommodation 291 Magna 488 354, 361 business hours 291 Herrenhäuser Gärten 513 Gap of Dunloe 336 car hire 290 Highland Folk Gästekarte 499 costs 290, 291 Gemsstock 532 currency 290 Museum 265-7 Geneva 542-4, 549, 552-3 emergencies 290 Highland games 263 Genoa 32, 40, 102-3, 107 food 291 Highland Wildlife Park 265 German language 520-1 fuel 290 highlights 8-9, 10-19 Germany 475-523 internet access 291 Hill Top 256 languages 290 Historisches Museum accommodation 519 mobile phones 291 car hire 518 money 291 Schloss Philippsruhe 506 costs 519 planning 290 history 21 currency 518 tipping 291 Hofburg 578 emergencies 518, 521 transport 291 Hohes Schloss 500 food 519 visas 290 Honister Pass 254 fuel 518 weather 290 Horn Head 319, 349 internet access 519 websites 291 Hunsrückbahn 485 language 518, 520-1 wi-fi 291 Hyde Park 209 mobile phones 519 Great Glen 271-7 money 519 Greve in Chianti 58 I planning 518-19 griffon vultures 156 tipping 519 Grimmwelt 509 Igreja de São Lourenço de transport 519 Grindelwald 533, 535-6 Matos 467 visas 518 Grizedale Forest 258 weather 518 Grossglockner High Alpine Île de Ré 146 websites 519 Road 562-3 Imperia 105 wi-fi 519 Grossmünster 548 Inisfallen 338 Giant’s Causeway 18, 318-19, Grotte de Niaux 160 Inisheer 360, 361 326, 344 Inishmór 322, 327, 360, 361 Gibraltar 396 Iniskeel Island 350 Giessbachfälle 535 Innsbruck 565, 567 Glen Affric 276 Interlaken 544-5, 549 Glen Coe 272-3, 277 584

Inverness 276, 277 J L INDEX I-L Ireland 297-365 Jane Austen Centre 214 La Grande Corniche 167-9 accommodation 363 Jardin Anglais 552 La Rioja 17, 427-35 car hire 362 Jardin des Tuileries 198 La Rochelle 145-6, 151 costs 363 Jodel Wanderweg 563 Lacock 244 currency 362 Juan-les-Pins 165-6 Lago di Como 47 emergencies 362 Jungfraujoch 548 Lago d’Orta 46 food 363 Juno Beach 136 Lago Maggiore 44 fuel 362 Lagos 463, 469 internet access 363 K Laguardia 433-4, 435 languages 362, 364-5 Lake District 247-59 mobile phones 363 Kandersteg 537 Lake District National money 362, 363 Kassel 509, 516 tipping 363 Kaub 487 Park 229, 233 transport 363 Kellerwald-Edersee Landgrafenschloss 508 visas 362 Landsberg am Lech 498 weather 362 National Park 509 Langdale Pikes 250 websites 363 Kenmare 309-10, 313, 323, Langeais 193 wi-fi 363 Las Fallas de San José 385 Iskaheen 345 327, 336, 339 Last Supper, The 32 Isle of Anglesey 227-8, 233 Kensington Gardens 209 Laugharne 282 Isle of Skye 232 Keswick 251, 259 Lauterbrunnen 536-7 Isole Borromee 44 Kidwelly 283-5 Le Clos Lucé 191 Italian Lakes 10, 42-53 Kilfenora 357 Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 182 Italian language 110-11 Killarney 308, 313, 330-1, Leacanabuile 333 Italian Riviera 101-7 Leaning Tower of Pisa 79 Italy 25-115 339 Leeds Castle 237-8 accommodation 109 Killarney National Park 337 Lentos 572 car hire 108 Killorglin 311, 332, 339 L’Entroterra 106 costs 109 King’s College Chapel 292 León 407-8, 413 emergencies 108, 110 Kingussie 265-7 Les Arènes (Arles) 149 food 109 Kinlochleven 273, 277 Les Forges de Pyrène 160 fuel 108 Kloster Disentis 532 Les Langeais 187-8 internet access 109 Knocknadobar 333 Lienz 562 language 108, 110-11 Koblenz 482, 489 Linz 572, 575 mobile phones 109 Kölner Dom 481, 522 Lisdoonvarna 359 planning 108-9 Kolumba 523 Loch Affric 276 tipping 109 Krems an der Donau 574, Loch Garten 265 transport 109 Loch Linnhe 273 visas 108 575 Loch Lomond 230-1 weather 108 Krimmler Wasserfälle 563 Loch Morlich 264 websites 109 Kulturhaus 483 Loch Ness 274-6 wi-fi 109 Kunsthalle 574 Loches 189 Kunsthaus 548 Logroño 405, 412, 429, 430 Kunstmeile 574 Kunstmuseum 546 585

INDEX L-P Loire Valley 13, 185-93 Mojácar 377, 379, 386 Orihuela 380 London 208-10, 219, 237 Monaco 171 ospreys 265 Longues-sur-Mer 137 Monchique 466 Ouistreham 135-6 Lorelei Sculpture 486 Mönchsjochhütte 548 outdoor activities 21 Loreley 486 Mont St-Michel 125, 130 Outer Hebrides 232 Lucerne 547, 549 Montagne de Reims Oxford 210, 244, 245 Lyme Regis 223-4 Lyon 131 Champagne Route 178 P Montalcino 61-2, 63 M Montepulciano 62, 63 Padua 32-3, 82-3 Muckross Estate 337 Palais des Nations 542-3 Madrid 417, 440-1 Mumbles, the 281-2, 289 Palatino 76 Magna Carta 211 Mumm 176 Palazzo Ducale 84 Mainz 488, 489 Musée du Louvre 198 Palazzo Vecchio 79 Mainzer Dom 488 Musée Picasso 166 Palermo 91, 98 Málaga 374-5, 386, 391-2, MuseumsQuartier 578 Pamplona 402-3, 412 music 353-61 Pantheon (Rome) 37, 77-8, 112 397 Panthéon (Paris) 199 Manchester 215-16, 219 N Panzano in Chianti 58-9 Marbella 395, 397 Paris 12, 122-3, 130, 198-9 Marburg 508-9, 516 Nájera 429 Parkmill 282-3 Märchenstrasse 513 Naples 37-8, 41 Pass of Glencoe 272-3 Mariendom 572 Narin 350, 351 Passau 570-1, 575 Marina del Cantone 68, 73 Nastro Azzurro 69 Pau 155-6, 161 Marina di Furore 69 National Trust Peak District National Marksburg 483 Marsala 92, 98 membership 251 Park 228, 233 Marseille 149-50 Near Sawrey 256 Pembroke 287, 289 Matterhorn Glacier Nerja 391, 397 Peñafiel 422, 425 Neues Stadtmuseum 499 perfume 170 Paradise 537 New Forest 222-3, 233 Peso da Régua 452, 457 Matterhorn Museum 538 Nice 150, 151, 167, 172, 200-1 Petit Train d’Artouste 156 Mauthausen Memorial 572-3 Nocelle 68 Pfalzgrafstein 487 Meenaleck 349 Nordkettenbahnen 565 Phare de Verzenay 178 Melk 573 Nördlingen 495, 503 Pic du Midi 159 Mémorial ­–­ Un Musée pour Normandy American Cemetery Picasso, Pablo 377 Pinhão 453, 457 la Paix 135 & Memorial 139-40 Pisa 79-81, 87 Menton 170-1, 173 Noto 96, 99 Place de la Concorde 198 Mercat de la Boqueria 443 Plaza Mayor 440 Mercier 179-81 O Pointe du Hoc 140 Mijas 393 Pompeii 38 Milan 32 Oberwesel 483 Ponferrada 409-10 Miltown Malbay 356 Odeceixe 461-2 Pont Neuf 198 Miranda do Douro 456, 457 Oeschinensee 537 Ponte Vecchio 115 Modena 81-2, 87 Old Man of Coniston 256 Modica 95, 99 Omaha Beach 139-40 Moët & Chandon 179 Oriel y Parc 288 586

Portbradden 318 R Sant’Agata sui Due INDEX P-S Portimão 465-6 Golfi 67-8 Portmagee 311 Ragusa 93 Porto 451-2 Rappenlochschlucht 566 Santiago de Compostela Portsmouth 239 Rathlin Island 343 410-11, 413 Portstewart 344-5, 351 Rathmelton 348, 351 Portugal 445-473 Rathmullan 348 Santo Domingo de la Ravello 71-2, 73 Calzada 406, 429-30, 435 accommodation 471 Reims 176-8, 183 car hire 470 reindeers 264 Santo Domingo de Silos 423 costs 471 Remagen 482 Sarlat-la-Canéda 127-8 currency 470 Rhine cruises 487 Savona 103-4 emergencies 470 Rhine Valley 19, 479-89 Scafell Pike 255 food 471 Rhossili 283, 289 scenic roads 13 fuel 470 Ring of Kerry 323, 329-39 Schilthorn 536-7 internet access 471 Roe Valley 345 Schloss Harburg 495 language 470 Roman Forum 77 Schloss mobile phones 471 Romantic Road 491-503 money 471 Rome 37, 41, 76-8, 86, 112-13 Hohenschwangau 500-1 planning 470-1 Roncesvalles 401-2 Schloss tipping 471 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin transport 471 Neuschwanstein 500-1 visas 470 169-70 Schloss Weikersheim 494 weather 470 Ross Castle 338 Schloss Wilhelmshöhe 509 websites 471 Rossbeigh Strand 332-3 Schneeballen 495 wi-fi 471 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Schongau 499 Portuguese language 472-3 Sciacca 92-3 Positano 68, 73 494-5, 502 Scottish Highlands 12, 261-9 Potter, Beatrix 253, 256, 257 Roundstone 304 Seebad Utoquai 548 Praia da Arrifana 462 Rüdesheim 488, 489 Segesta 91 Praia da Falésia 466 Rue St-François de Paule 200 Segovia 417-18, 424 Praia da Rocha 465-6 Rydal Mount 250 Seilbahn 488 Praia de Vale Figueira 462-3 Rye 238 Selinunte 92 Praiano 69 Sentiero degli Dei 69 Promenade des Anglais 150, S Shakespeare’s Globe 210 167, 200 Sicily 89-99 Puebla de Sanabria 419 Sagres 463, 469 Siena 78 Puente la Reina 403 Sahagún 407 Silves 466 Pyrenees 153-61 Salamanca 418-19, 424 Sitges 383-4 Salisbury 211, 242, 245 Skellig Michael 310 Q Salzburg 561-2 Skellig Ring 333 Samos 410 Skiddaw 251 Quinta do Crasto 453 San Gimignano 78 Sky Road 304 Quinta do Vallado 452-3 San Millán de Cogolla 429 Slea Head 308 Quinta Nova 453 San Remo 105-6, 107 sled dogs 265 Santa María de Eunate 403 Sligo Town 319, 326-7 Sneem 336, 339 Snowdonia National Park 225, 227 587

INDEX S-V Solva 287-8, 289 Stratford-upon-Avon 215-16 Therme Vals 531 Soria 423, 425 Stresa 44-6, 53 Thomas, Dylan 281, 282 Sorrento 67, 73 St-Savin 157, 161 Three Cliffs Bay 282 Spain 369-443 St-Stephan-Kirche 488 Three Sisters 272 Stubaital 566 Titanic Belfast 318-19, 343 accommodation 437 surfing 283 Tomintoul 264, 269 car hire 436 Swallows and Amazons 256 Torc Waterfall 338 costs 437 Swansea 281, 289 Tordesillas 421 currency 436 Swiss Alps 17, 529-39 Toro 419 emergencies 436, 438 Switzerland 525-553 Torre del Mangia 78 food 437 Torre Ghirlandina 82 fuel 436 accommodation 551 Torremolinos 392-3, 397 internet access 437 car hire 550 Toulouse 147, 151 languages 436, 438-9 costs 551 Transhumance 156 mobile phones 437 currency 550 Trapani 92, 98 money 437 emergencies 550 Tremezzo 50-2 transport 437 food 551 Trinity College 292-3, 302, visas 436 fuel 550 weather 436 internet access 551 366 wi-fi 437 languages 550 Trophée des Alpes 167, 169 Spanish language 438-9 mobile phones 551 Trümmelbachfälle 536 St Anna Kirche 498 money 551 Tullyaughnish Church 348 St Bees Head 255 planning 550-1 Turin 30-2, 40 St Davids 288, 289 tipping 551 Tuscany 55-63 St Goar 486, 489 transport 551 St James 407 visas 550 U St Mura Cross 347 weather 550 St Non’s Bay 288 websites 551 Uffington White St Patrick’s Cathedral 366 wi-fi 551 Horse 210-11 St Paul’s Cathedral 237 Syracuse 96-7, 99 St Peter’s Basilica 37 Ullswater 258 Staatsoper 579 T Unesco Biosphere Stackpole Estate 286 Stadtmuseum 495 Taittinger 176 Entlebuch 547 Stanserhorn 547 Taormina 97, 99 Unesco World Heritage Steall Meadows 274 Tapisserie de Bayeux 125 Steinau 506-7 Tarascon-sur-Ariège 160 sites 75-87 St-Émilion 146, 151 Tarn Hows 257 Utah Beach 140 Stephansdom 579 Tarragona 382-3, 387 Stift Göttweig 574 Tauberbischofsheim 493-4 V Stift Melk 573 Tauberfränkisches Stock Ghyll Force 248 Valencia 382, 387 Stonehenge 15, 211, 213, 242 Landschaftsmuseum 494 Valentia Island 311, 333 St-Paul de Vence 166 Tavira 468, 469 Vallée d’Aspe 156 Teatro La Fenice 33 Vallée d’Ossau 156-7 Tenby 285, 289 Vals 531-2 Varenna 52 Varese 47 Vatican Museums 37 588

Venice 33-5, 40, 83-4, 87 Walk of the Gods 69 Worms Head 283 INDEX V-Z Ventimiglia 106, 107 walks 198-9, 200-1 Wrynose Pass 255-6 Verbania 46, 53 Wasdale 254 Würzburg 492-3, 502 Verkehrshaus 547 waterfalls 248, 273 Verona 82 Waterville 335-6, 339 X Versailles 124 Weikersheim 494 Verzenay 178 Weinhaus Heilig Grab 485 Xàtiva 381-2 Verzy 178 Werfen 562, 567 via ferrata 273 Westminster Abbey 208 Y Viana 405 Westport 319-21 Vico Equense 67 Whinlatter Forest Park 254 York 217-18, 219 Vienna 574, 575, 578-9 whisky 268 Yorkshire Dales National Vietri sul Mare 72 White Park Bay 318 Vieux Nice 200-1 Whitesands Bay 288 Park 228 views 20 Wieskirche 499-500 Vila Nova de Foz Côa 456 Wilhelmshöhe 509-10, 516 Z Vila Nova de Milfontes 461 Willibaldsburg 498 Villa Romana del Casale 93 Willy Wonka 495 Zambujeira do Mar 461, 469 Villafranca del Bierzo 410 Winchester 211, 239-40, 245 Zamora 419, 424-5 Villandry 188 Windermere 248 Zell am See 563 Vinothèque 487-8 Windsurfcenter Zell Am Zell am Ziller 563, 565, 567 Viterbo 36-7 Zentrum Paul Klee 545 See 563 Zermatt 538 W wine 15, 21, 59, 536 Zumdorf 532 wine tours 55-63, 174-83, Zum Grünen Baum 487 Wade, General George 274 Zürich 548, 549 Wade’s Bridge 268 426-35, 448-57 Zytglogge 545 Wales 279-89 Wordsworth, William 250, 254 589

NICOLA WILLIAMS NEIL WILSON British writer Nicola Williams has lived in France and Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most written about it for more than a decade. From her of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full- hillside house on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 road trips beckon to Provence, Paris, the Dordogne guidebooks, including the Lonely Planet guides to and onwards to the Atlantic Coast where she has Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors spent endless years revelling in its extraordinary enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill- landscapes, architecture and seafaring cuisine. walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher Nicola has worked on numerous Lonely Planet titles, and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in including Discover France and Paris. Find her on four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Twitter and Instagram at @Tripalong. Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo and the Old Man of Hoy in the Orkney Islands. Read more about Nicola at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nicolawilliams Read more about Neil at https://auth.lonelyplanet. com/profiles/neilwilson 590

DANIEL ROBINSON BRENDAN SAINSBURY Co-author (with Tony Wheeler) of Lonely Planet’s first Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first Paris guide, Daniel has been writing about France went to Spain on an Inter-rail ticket in the 1980s. He for over 25 years. Passionate about history, he is went back as a travel guide several years later and always moved by the grand châteaux of the Loire, the met his wife-to-be in a small village in rural Andalucía sombre cemeteries of the Somme, and the dramatic in 2003. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet and tragic events that both embody. Daniel’s travel for a decade, including four previous editions of the writing has appeared in the New York Times, National Spain and Andalucía guides. Brendan loves Granada, Geographic Traveler and many other publications the writing of Federico Lorca, cycling along via and has been translated into 10 languages. He verdes, and attending as many flamenco shows as his holds degrees in history from Princeton and Tel Aviv research allows. University. Read more about Brendan at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brendansainsbury ANDY SYMINGTON RYAN VER BERKMOES Though he hails from Australia, Andy’s great- Ryan once lived in Germany. He spent three years in grandfather emigrated to Portugal in the 19th century Frankfurt, during which time he edited a magazine and that side of his family still calls the country home. until he got a chance for a new career with... Lonely This connection means that he has been a frequent Planet. One of his first jobs was working on Lonely visitor to the country since birth, and now nips across Planet’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked fish, the border very frequently from his home in Spain. which serves him well in the north, and he loves beer, Andy has authored and co-authored numerous Lonely which serves him well everywhere in Germany. Follow Planet and other guidebooks. him at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb. Read more about Andy at: https://auth. Read more about Ryan at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andysymington lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb 591

PAULA HARDY CATHERINE LE NEVEZ From the slopes of Valpolicella to the shores of Lake Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she Como and the spritz-fuelled bars of Venice and Milan, roadtripped across Europe aged four. She’s Paula has been contributing to Lonely Planet Italian been hitting the road at every opportunity since, guides for over 15 years, including previous editions completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, of Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan, The Italian Lakes, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-graduate Sicily, Sardinia, Puglia & Basilicata and Italy. When qualifications in editing and publishing along the way. she’s not scooting around the bel paese, she writes Over the last dozen-plus years she’s written scores of for a variety of travel publications and websites. Lonely Planet guides, along with numerous print and Currently she divides her time between London, Italy online articles, covering destinations all over Europe and Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy. and far beyond. Read more about Paula at: https://auth. Read more about Catherine at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/paulahardy lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez SALLY O’BRIEN JOSEPHINE QUINTERO Australian-born Sally, a Lonely Planet writer since Spain is Josephine’s favourite country on earth and 2001, has called Switzerland home since 2007. she has lived in Málaga province on the Costa del Swapping her surfboard for a snowboard, the beach Sol for over 20 years. As well as co-authoring four for the lake and the barbecue for the caquelon, she editions of the Lonely Planet Spain title, she has loves exploring Switzerland’s charming cities, the worked on the Andalucía regional guide and numerous sublime Alps and lakes, and catching cable cars and other Lonely Planet titles. For this book her highlight trains to stunning vantage points. It’s only fitting that was discovering still more fine dining venues in the she became a naturalised Swiss citizen while on the cobbled Marbella backstreets. road for this guide. She lives with her husband, Denis, and their sons in the Lake Geneva region. Sally tweets Read more about Josephine at: https://auth. @swissingaround. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/josephinequintero 592

MARC DI DUCA PETER DRAGICEVICH A well-established travel guide author, Marc has explored many corners of Germany over the last 25 After a successful career in niche newspaper years but it’s to the quirky variety and friendliness and magazine publishing, both in his native New of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in Rothenburg wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse ob der Tauber or brewery hopping in Bamberg, he can roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely wife, Tanya, and their two sons. Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Read more about Marc at: https://auth. Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Madidu current nomadic existence means he’s hardly ever there. Read more about Peter at https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/peterdragicevich DUNCAN GARWOOD ANTHONY HAM A Brit travel writer based in the Castelli Romani hills just outside Rome, Duncan has clocked up tens of In 2001, Anthony fell in love with Madrid on his first thousands of kilometres driving through Italy and visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived exploring its far-flung reaches. He’s co-author of on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and the Rome city guide and has contributed to a host of not knowing a single person. After ten years living Lonely Planet guidebooks including Italy, Piedmont, in the city, he recently returned to Australia with his Sicily, Sardinia, and Naples and the Amalfi Coast. He Spanish-born family, but he still adores his adopted has also written on Italy for newspapers, websites and country as much as the first day he arrived. When he’s magazines. not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Scandinavia, the Middle East, Read more about Duncan at: https://auth. Australia and Africa for newspapers and magazines lonelyplanet.com/profiles/duncangarwood around the world. See www.anthonyham.com. Read more about Anthony at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anthonyham 593

OLIVER BERRY STUART BUTLER Oliver Berry has explored nearly every corner of France for Lonely Planet, travelling all the way Stuart’s first childhood encounters with Spain came from the mountains of Corsica to the beaches of on a school trip to the far south of Spain and family Normandy. He has also photographed and written holidays along the north coast. These left lasting about France for many newspapers, magazines impressions and when he was older he spent every and online publications. When not in France, he can summer on the Basque beaches, until one day he usually be found wandering the beaches and clifftops found he was unable to tear himself away – he’s of his home county, Cornwall. His latest work is been in the region ever since. His travels for Lonely published at oliverberry.com. Planet, and a wide variety of magazines, have taken him beyond Spain, to the shores of the Arctic, the Read more about Oliver at: https://auth. mountains of Asia and the savannahs of Africa. His lonelyplanet.com/profiles/oliverberry website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com. Read more about Stuart at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler KERRY CHRISTIANI FIONN DAVENPORT Kerry's research for this guide included parts of Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has been writing Portugal and France. Her love affair with Portugal about his native country for more than two decades. began as a child clambering along the cliffs of the He’s come and gone over the years, pulled abroad Algarve. She later fell for the rest of the country – its to escape Dublin’s comfortable stasis and by the captivating landscapes, super-friendly locals, fresh promise of adventure, but it has cemented his belief seafood and photogenic light. She’s been travelling in that Ireland remains his favourite place to visit, if not her beloved France since she first visited in her school always live in. These days, he has a weekly commute days to brush up her français, which she went on to home to Dublin from Manchester, where he lives with study to MA level. Kerry authors a number of Lonely his partner Laura and their car, Trevor. In Dublin he Planet’s central and southern European titles and presents Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1 and writes tweets @kerrychristiani. travel features for a host of publications, including The Irish Times. Read more about Kerry at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/KerryChristiani 594

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd OUR OUR STORY WRITERS A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. BELINDA DIXON ISABEL ALBISTON Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda After growing up near Belfast, Isabel spent the next has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and 15 years travelling and living all over the world. She writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her has written for newspapers and magazines while marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise; scrambling based in London, Sydney and Buenos Aires; she up Italian mountain paths; horse riding across has also worked on Lonely Planet titles such as Donegal’s golden sands; kayaking down south Devon Borneo and Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei. But it’s in rivers; gazing at Verona’s frescoes; fossil hunting on coming home to Ireland that she’s been able to fully Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. A trained radio journalist, appreciate this beautiful corner of the world, from the her innate nosiness means few likely-looking sleep bracing breezes of the Atlantic coast to the warmth of spots go unexplored. See her VideoBlog posts at its cosy pubs. https://belindadixon.com Read more about Isabel at: https://auth. Read more about Belinda at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabelalbiston lonelyplanet.com/profiles/belindadixon MORE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Paper in this book is certified against the Global Limited Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. CRN 554153 Lonely Planet and are registered in the FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, 1st edition – Mar 2017 US Patent and Trademark Office and in socially beneficial and economically viable ISBN 978 1 78657 326 1 other countries. Lonely Planet does not management of the world’s forests. © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as allow its name or logo to be appropriated indicated 2017 by commercial establishments, such as 595 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please Printed in China let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet. All rights reserved. No part of this com/ip. publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in Although the authors and Lonely any form by any means, electronic, Planet have taken all reasonable mechanical, recording or otherwise, except care in preparing this book, we make brief extracts for the purpose of review, no warranty about the accuracy or and no part of this publication may be sold completeness of its content and, to or hired, without the written permission the maximum extent permitted, dis- claim all liability arising from its use.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ROAD SIGNS: IRELAND No parking Ceantar Stop Luain - Cloine No Entry YIELD Coisithe 0700-0930 Give way/ MON-FRI Pedestrianized yield Street Parking permitted ROAD SIGNS: SPAIN Speed control Customs Stopping No parking Parking Parking signal and parking prohibited on prohibited on prohibited odd days even days ROAD SIGNS: PORTUGAL Motor vehicles Overtaking Snow chains Priority road Traffic Electronic toll prohibited prohibited mandatory congestion (SCUT) area ROAD SIGNS: GERMANY Give priority to Priority for No motor Bumpy Stop-customs Hazardous road rail transport oncoming vehicles (except road for cars with vehicles motorcycles) caravans/trailers ROAD SIGNS: SWITZERLAND No stopping No parking Maximum Minimum Motorway Snow chains speed limit speed required ROAD SIGNS: AUSTRIA Give way Closed to all Priority road No overtaking Residential Stop vehicles in both street 596 directions

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