Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med At Les Arènes (Amphi- théâtre; www.arenes-arles. JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET © com; Rond-Point des Arènes; adult/child €6/free, incl Théâ- tre Antique €9/free; h9am- 8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm May-Jun & Sep, shorter hours rest of year) slaves, criminals and wild animals (includ- ing giraffes) met their dramatic demise before a jubilant 20,000-strong crowd during Roman gladiatorial displays. The Théâtre Antique (%04 90 96 93 30; bd des Lices; h9am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hours rest of year), which dates from the 1st century BC, is still regu- larly used for al fresco concerts and plays. 5 4 p151 The Drive » From Arles take the scenic N568 and A55 route into Marseille. It’s 88km (an hour’s drive) away. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 8 Marseille With its history, fusion of cultures, souq-like mar- kets, millennia-old port and corniches (coastal roads) along rocky inlets and sun-baked beaches, Marseille is a captivating and exotic city. Ships have docked for more than 26 centuries at the city’s birthplace, the colourful Vieux Port (Old Port), which remains a thriving harbour to this day. Guarding it are Bas Fort St-Nicolas on the south side and, across the water, Fort St-Jean, found- ed in the 13th century by 149

FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med the Knights Hospitaller ence. It’s a mishmash of cinema’s most prestigious of St John of Jerusa- lanes hiding artisan shops, event on a 1½-hour guid- lem. A vertigo-inducing ateliers (workshops) and ed tour run by the tourist footbridge links the latter terraced houses strung office (%04 91 13 89 00; with the stunning Musée with drying washing. www.marseille-tourisme.com; 11 La Canebière; h9am-7pm des Civilisations de The Drive » To get from Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun). l’Europe et de la Méditer- Marseille to Cannes, take the 5 4 p172 ranée, (MuCEM; www.mucem. northbound A52 and join the The Drive » Weave along org; 7 Promenade Robert Laffont; A8 toll road just east of Aix-en- adult/family/child €9.50/14/ Provence. It’s 181km and takes the D6007 to Nice, taking in free; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon just under two hours. cliffs, turquoise waters and the Jul & Aug, 11am-7pm Wed-Mon yachties’ town of Antibes. It’s Sep, Oct, May & Jun, 11am-6pm 9 Cannes 31km and, on a good day, takes Wed-Mon Nov-Apr) the icon of 45 minutes. modern Marseille. Its vast The eponymous film anthropological collec- festival only lasts for two a Nice tion is housed in a bold, weeks in May, but thanks contemporary building to regular visits from cele­ You don’t need to be a known as J4, designed by brities the buzz and glitz painter or artist to appre- Algerian-born, Marseille- are in Cannes year-round. ciate the extraordinary educated architect Rudi light in Nice. Matisse, Ricciotti. The imposing Palais Chagall et al spent years des Festivals et des lapping up the city’s From the Vieux Port, Congrès (1 bd de la Croisette; startling luminosity and hike up to the fantastic guided tour adult/child €4/ radiance, and for most history-woven quarter free) is the centre of the visitors to Nice, it is of Le Panier, dubbed glamour. Climb the red this magical light that Marseille’s Montmartre carpet, walk down the seduces. The city has a as much for its sloping auditorium, tread the number of world-class streets as its artsy ambi- stage and learn about sights, but the star at- traction is probably the DETOUR: seafront Promenade des AIX-EN-PROVENCE Anglais. Atmospheric, beautiful and photogenic, Start: 7 Arles (p147) it’s a wonderful place to Aix-en-Provence is to Provence what the Left Bank stroll (p200) or watch the is to Paris: an enclave of bourgeois-bohemian chic. world go by, so make sure Art, culture and architecture abound here. A stroller’s you leave yourself plenty paradise, the highlight is the mostly pedestrian old of time to soak it all in. city, Vieil Aix. South of cours Mirabeau, Quartier Mazarin was laid out in the 17th century, and is home 5 4 p151, p172 to some of Aix’s finest buildings. Central Place des Quatre Dauphins, with its fish-spouting fountain (1667), is particularly enchanting. Further south still is the peaceful Parc Jourdan, where locals gather beneath plane trees to play pétanque. From Arles it’s a 77km (one-hour) drive down the A54 toll road to Aix-en-Provence. To rejoin the main route take the A51 and A7 for 32km (30 minutes) to Marseille. 150

Eating & Sleeping La Rochelle 1 combination. A palette of maroon and cream, with marble flourishes here and there, bestows 4 Hôtel St-Nicolas Boutique Hotel €€ a regal feel on comfortable rooms. Bathrooms are lavished with ecofriendly products. The (%05 46 41 71 55; www.hotel-saint-nicolas.com; 13 breakfast buffet is largely organic. Some rue Sardinerie et place de la Solette; d/tr €125/145; recently upgraded rooms have mod cons such p aW) This stylish hotel, tucked in a peaceful as USB ports and coffee makers. courtyard with delightful summer terrace, has smart comfortable rooms with ultra-modern Arles 7 FRANCE 10 Atlantic to Med bathrooms – think giant rain showers, heated towel rails and sweet-smelling welcome products. 4 Le Cloître Design Hotel €€ A handful of rooms are across the courtyard in an equally inviting annexe, and breakfast (€12) (%04 88 09 10 00; www.hotel-cloitre.com; is served in an indoor tropical garden. Check its website for excellent-value deals. 18 rue du Cloître; s €105, d €130-185; iW) Proving you don’t need to spend a fortune for originality and imagination, the 19 rooms at this zingy hotel next to the Cloître Ste-Trophime St-Émilion 2 combine history and modern design to winning 5 La Terrasse Rouge French €€ effect: bold colours, funky patterns and retro furniture abound, and the rooftop terrace is a (%05 57 24 47 05; www.laterrasserouge.com; stunning sundowner spot. The lavish breakfast 1 Château La Dominique; lunch menu €28; spread is (unusually) worth the €14 price tag. hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Jun-Sep, noon- 2.30pm & 7-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun- Nice a Thu Oct-May) Foodies adore this spectacular vineyard restaurant. Chefs work exclusively with 5 Le Bistrot small local producers to source the seasonal Modern French €€ veg, fruit and so on used in their creative d’Antoine cuisine. Oysters are fresh from Cap Ferret, (%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus caviar comes from Neuvic in the Dordogne and €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm the wine list is, naturally, extraordinary. Tue-Sat) A quintessential French bistro, right down to the checked tablecloths, streetside Toulouse 5 tables and impeccable service – not to mention 5 Le Genty Magre French €€€ tdhisehheasnldikwerriattbebnitbplaâctkéb, pooatrC-dca,oplootiaoknedCdeadppowtioriktnh,CbacplloatiosodsniCcaption sausage and duck breast. For classic French (%05 61 21 38 60; www.legentymagre.com; food, this is a treat. 3 rue Genty Magre; mains €18-30, menu €38; 4 Nice Garden h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sat) Classic Boutique Hotel €€ French cuisine is the order of the day here, but Hôtel lauded chef Romain Brard has plenty of modern (%04 93 87 35 62; www.nicegardenhotel.com; tricks up his sleeve, too. The dining room feels 11 rue du Congrès; s €75, d €90-123, tr €138; inviting, with brick walls, burnished wood and hreception 8am-9pm; aW) Behind heavy sultry lighting. It’s arguably the best place in the iron gates hides this gem: nine beautifully city to try rich, traditional dishes such as confit appointed rooms – the work of the exquisite de canard (duck confit) or cassoulet (stew). Marion – are a subtle blend of old and new and 4 Hôtel Albert 1er Hotel €€ overlook a delightful garden with a glorious (%05 61 21 47 49; www.hotel-albert1.com; 8 rue orange tree. Amazingly, all this charm and Rivals; d €65-145; aW) The Albert’s central peacefulness is just two blocks from the location and eager-to-please staff are a winning promenade. Breakfast €9. 151

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1161 4161 6161 8161

NICK INMAN / GETTY IMAGES © 11The Pyrenees Traversing hair-raising roads, sky-top passes and snow-dusted peaks, this trip ventures deep into the unforgettable Pyrenees. Buckle up – you’re in for a roller coaster of a drive. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 277 km 522 km 7 DAYS Cauterets Tarascon-sur-Ariège 522KM / 324 MILES Hit the trails at this See prehistoric art in a chic and historic Pyrenean cavern GREAT FOR… ski resort JG lL # # Foix BEST TIME TO GO Oloron # Pau St-Girons mK##9 June to September, Ste-Marie when the road passes are open. # I ESSENTIAL #2 # ##6 #7 PHOTO Vallée d’Aspe Col du Tourmalet Standing on top of the Escape the outside Marvel at the Pic du Midi. world in this mountain panorama wonderfully rural valley from the Pic du Midi K BEST FOR 80 km 322 km OUTDOORS Hiking to the Lac de Gaube near Cauterets. CLoacuatteiroentsCTahpetiomnoduenttaaiilns-troinggoedheLraec de Gaube 153

11 The Pyrenees They might not have the altitude of the Alps, but the Pyrenees pack a mighty mountain punch, and if you’re an outdoors-lover, you’ll be in seventh heaven here. With quiet villages, rustic restaurants, spectacular trails and snowy mountains galore, the Pyrenees are a wild adventure – just remember to break in your hiking boots before you arrive. \\# GF ¸0 GF10 A65 ‚ ¸0A64 214 km to 8 \\# Mielan lLPYRÉNÉES- Arros ATLANTIQUES ##\\1 Pau Oloron- Pau c #\\ Tarbes Castelnau \\# Ste-Marie Magnoac #\\ 0¸N134 Betharram Pontacq 0¸A64 \\# #\\ Escot #\\ Col du Arudy FG10 Adour Lannemezan Marie- #\\ \\# Blanque Lourdes #\\ Sarrance \\# \\# Bielle Bagnères HAUTES- \\# #\\ Aste Beon de Bigorre \\# #\\ Neste # # 0¸ ### ¸0H# ¸0 #Lesd\\#Vc'EAuatnlsslpéau\\##\\ee\\#tABC#\\cee2Pcdtiotoceu(ud-2sCSsE'2AooyR8LPmygl8ai(odudcm2pru'unu8doOs)GR8nrus3ta4ss#\\Mbma#\\dVuai)dsa'EBO#\\ilaolGsuénsoxena-uBe(#\\urs3ael1at4C(Rt1ï6Peot7domal0eurd9V)scDsC'mAi9PNg(1au)3yn8aurb2eté9tiimnsoe8qdnéamrue'aleEese)lPstRspo#\\angt6#\\nSe54Lauu\\#zAvSeBSrtDug-te9Sr-2eapT1\\#aul1èvo5c#\\s7ieun-nGrCGDsmè9oa1dNa8lzraleodetsuitPo7tanRracPM(l2id8cied6ds#\\Li5uamMP)YoRngÉSiSNeCto-Éo(uL\\#1lEal4adSr8n'yA9ms\\#p)iAnrdreeaP(ue15yC6reo9slmou) rde #\\ c c c #\\ Canfranc SPAIN Gav#\\arnie Pyrénées \\# Cirque de Troumouse Cirque de\\# R Gavarnie M(33t 5P5emrd)ido #\\ \\#

1 Pau monarchs of Navarre Pau’s tiny old centre FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees and transformed into extends for around 500m Palm trees might seem a Renaissance château around the Château de out of place in this moun- in the 16th century. It’s Pau, and boasts many tainous region, but Pau home to a fine collection attractive medieval and (rhymes with ‘so’) has of Gobelins tapestries and Renaissance buildings. long been famed for its Sevres porcelain. mild climate. In the 19th 8 Essential France century this elegant town LINK From Foix, it’s was a favourite winter- YOUR four hours’ drive east to ing spot for wealthy Brits TRIP Aix-en-Provence, where and Americans, who left you can commence the behind many grand villas a Atlantic to Med grand tour of France in and smart promenades. From Foix, head reverse. just over an hour Its main sight is the northeast to Carcassone #\\ Château de Pau (%05 59 and then east for the 82 38 00; www.chateau-pau. balmy Med or west for the slower-paced fr; 2 rue du Château; adult/child Atlantic coast. €7/free; h9.30am-12.15pm & 1.30-5.45pm, gardens open longer hrs), built by the e# 0 40 km 0 20 miles 0¸A64 0¸A61 Garonne HAUTE-GARONNE Gratens \\# \\# Boulogne- Aurignac FG10 \\#Carbonne Ariège sur-Gesse \\# #\\ Rieux #\\ Cazères ¸0A64 \\# Salat \\# Artigat \\# #\\ St-Gaudens Montesquieu- Montréjeau Volvestre Pamiers #\\ #\\ St-Bertrand de 0¸Prat La Bastide Comminges \\# de Serou St-Lizier Lescure Coldd'AesPpoerttet \\# D117 \\# (1069m) \\# #\\ c St-Girons ##\\8 Foix c Col de ¸0Montgaillard #\\ D117 Pic de Co(l1d3e49Mme)nté la Core Bacanère (1395m) mK ·/N20 (2193m) c Pic de ARIÈGE #9\\# R R M(83au8mbe)rmé Tarascon- Ussat- Bagnères R Mt Valier \\# les-Bains de Luchon (2838m) #\\ c \\# sur-Ariège Col du Portillon Guzet \\# (1320m) Neige Vicdessos R Pica R Pic Rouge Mt Rouch de Bassiès (2858m) D'Estates (2676m) 155 (3143m) R #\\

FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees Central street parking villages such as Sar- 60km. The first part is mostly payant (charge- rance, Borcé and Etsaut. of the valley as far as able), but there’s free Laruns is broad, green parking on place de Ver- Near the quiet village and pastoral, but as you dun and the street lead- of Bedous, it’s worth travel south the moun- ing west of there (av du 18 detouring up the narrow tains really start to pile Régiment d’Infanterie). road to Lescun, a tiny up, before broadening hamlet perched 5.5km out again near Gabas. 5 4 p161 above the valley, overlook- The Drive » To reach the ing the peak of Pic d’Anie Halfway between (2504m) and the cluster of Arudy and Laruns, you Vallée d’Aspe from Pau, take mountains known as the can spy on some of the the N193 to Oloron-Ste-Marie. Cirque de Lescun. Pyrenees’ last griffon vul- The first 30km are uneventful, tures at the Falaise aux but over the next 40km south The valley ends 25km Vautours (Cliff of the Vultures; of Oloron the mountain scenery further south near the %05 59 82 65 49; www.falaise- unfolds in dramatic fashion, with Col du Somport (1631m), aux-vautours.com; adult/child towering peaks stacking up on where a controversial €6/4; h10.30am-12.30pm & either side of the road. tunnel burrows 8km un- 2-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 2-5.30pm der the Franco-Spanish Apr-Jun & Sep). Once a com- TRIP HIGHLIGHT border. The return drive mon sight, these majestic to Pau is just over 80km. birds have been deci- 2 Vallée d’Aspe mated by habitat loss and The Drive » To reach the hunting; they’re now pro- The westernmost of the tected by law. Live CCTV Pyrenean valleys makes a Vallée d’Ossau from Pau, take images are beamed from great day trip from Pau. the N134 south of town, veering their nests to the visitors Framed by mountains south onto the D934 towards centre in Aste-Béon. and bisected by the Aspe Arudy/Laruns. From Pau to River, it’s awash with Laruns, it’s about 42km. The ski resort of classic Pyrenean scenery. Artouste-Fabrèges, 6km The main attraction here 3 Vallée d’Ossau east of Gabas, is linked is soaking up the scenery. by cable car to the Petit Allow yourself plenty More scenic splendour Train d’Artouste (%05 of time for photo stops, awaits in the Vallée 59 05 36 99; www.altiservice. especially around pretty d’Ossau, which tracks the com/excursion/train-artouste; course of its namesake adult/child €25/21; hJun– river for a spectacular mid-Sep), a miniature mountain railway built THE TRANSHUMANCE for dam workers in the 1920s. The train is only If you’re travelling through the Pyrenees between late open between June and May and early June and find yourself stuck behind a September; reserve cattle-shaped traffic jam, there’s a good chance you ahead and allow four may have just got caught up in the Transhumance, in hours for a visit. which shepherds move their flocks from their winter pastures up to the high, grassy uplands. The Drive » The D918 This ancient custom has been a fixture on the between Laruns and Argelès- Pyrenean calendar for centuries, and several valleys Gazost is one of the Pyrenees’ host festivals to mark the occasion. The spectacle most breathtaking roads, is repeated in October, when the flocks are brought switchbacking over the lofty back down before the winter snows set in. Col d’Aubisque. The road feels exposed, but it’s a wonderfully 156

scenic drive. You’ll cover about des Pyrénées (%05 62 has clung on to much of FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees 52km, but allow yourself at 97 91 07; www.parc-animalier- its fin-de-siècle charac- least 1½ hours. Once you reach pyrenees.com; adult/child ter, with a stately spa Argelès-Gazost, head further €18/13; h9.30am-6pm or and grand 19th-century south for 4km along the D101 to 7pm Apr-Oct) does all the residences. St-Savin. hard work for you. It’s home to a menagerie of To see the scenery at its 4 St-Savin endangered Pyrenean best, drive through town animals including along the D920 (signed After the hair-raising drive wolves, marmots, lynxes, to the ‘Pont d’Espagne’). over the Col d’Aubisque, giant ravens, vultures, The road is known locally St-Savin makes a welcome racoons, beavers and as the Chemins des Cas- refuge. It’s a classic even a few brown bears cades after the waterfalls Pyrenean village, with (the European cousin of that crash down the cobbled lanes, quiet cafes the grizzly bear). mountainside; it’s 6.5km and timbered houses set of nonstop hairpins, so around a fountain-­filled The Drive » Take the D921 take it steady. main square. south of Argelès-Gazost for 6km At the top, you’ll reach It’s also home to to Pierrefitte-Nestalas. Here, the giant car park at one of the Pyrenees’ the road forks; the southwest Pont d’Espagne (cable cars most respected hotel- branch (the D920) climbs up a adult/child €13/10.50). From restaurants, Le Viscos lush, forested valley for another here, a combination (%05 62 97 02 28; www.hotel- 11km to Cauterets. télécabine and télésiege leviscos.com; 1 rue Lamarque, (adult/child €13/10.50) St-Savin; menus €49-75; TRIP HIGHLIGHT ratchets up the moun- h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun & tainside allowing access 7.30-9.30pm daily; p aW), 6 Cauterets to the area’s trails, in- run by celeb chef Jean- cluding the popular hike Pierre St-Martin, known For alpine scenery, the to the sapphire-tinted for his blend of Basque, century-old ski resort Lac de Gaube. Breton and Pyrenean fla- of Cauterets is perhaps vours (as well as his pas- the signature spot in the 5 4 p161 sion for foie gras). After Pyrenees. Hemmed in by dinner, retire to one of the mountains and forests, it cosy country rooms and watch the sun set over the DETOUR: snowy mountains. CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE 4 p161 Start: 6 Cauterets The Drive » From St-Savin, For truly mind-blowing mountain scenery, it’s well worth taking a side trip to see the Cirque de travel back along the D101 Gavarnie, a dramatic amphitheatre of mountains to Argelès-Gazost. You’ll see 20km south of Luz-St-Saveur. It’s a return walk of signs to the Parc Animalier des about two hours from the village, and you’ll need to Pyrénées as you approach town. bring sturdy footwear. 5 Argelès-Gazost There’s another spectacular circle of mountains 6.5km to the north, the Cirque de Troumouse. Spotting wildlife isn’t It’s reached via a hair-raising 8km toll road (€5 per always easy in the vehicle; open April to October). There are no barriers Pyrenees, but thank- and the drops are really dizzying, so drive carefully. fully the Parc Animalier 157

PHILIPPE COHAT / GETTY IMAGES © ESCUDERO PATRICK / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP OLIVER BERRY, WRITER The craggy peaks of the Pyrenees are home to some of France’s rarest wildlife and most unspoilt landscapes, and every twist and turn in the road seems to reveal another knockout view – one of my personal favourites is the amazing road over the Col d’Aubisque, which feels closer to flying than driving. I love the traditional way of life here, too. Visit during the Transhumance to be treated to one of France’s great rural spectacles. Top: Col d’Aubisque Left: Château de Pau Right: Cauterets ski resort

FRANCE 11 The PyreneesThe Drive » After staying FELIX ALAIN / GETTY IMAGES © overnight in Cauterets, backtrack to Pierrefitte-Nestalas, and turn southeast onto the D921 for 12km to Luz-St-Saveur. The next stretch on the D918 is another mountain stunner, climbing up through Barèges to the breathtaking Col du Tourmalet. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 7 Col du Tourmalet Even in the pantheon of Pyrenean road passes, the Col du Tourmalet com- mands special respect. At 2115m, it’s the highest road pass in the Pyrenees, and usually only opens between June and Octo- ber. It’s often used as a punishing mountain stage in the Tour de France, and you’ll feel uncomfortably akin to a motorised ant as you crawl up towards the pass. From the ski resort of La Mongie (1800m), a cable car climbs to the top of the soaring Pic du Midi (www.picdumidi.com; adult/child €36/23; h9am- 7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Oct, Dec-Apr). This high- altitude observatory commands otherworldly views – but it’s often blanketed in cloud, so make sure you check the forecast before you go. The Drive » The next stage to Foix is a long one. Follow the D918 and D935 to Bagnères-de- Bigorre, then the D938 and D20 to Tournay, a drive of 40km. Just before Tournay, head west onto the A64 for 82km. Exit onto the D117, signed to St-Girons. It’s another 72km to Foix. 159

FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees ROAD PASSES IN THE PYRENEES The high passes between the Vallée d’Ossau, the Vallée d’Aspe and the Vallée de Gaves are often closed during winter. Signs are posted along the approach roads indicating whether they’re ouvert (open) or fermé (closed). The dates given below are approximate, and depend on seasonal snowfall. Col d’Aubisque (1709m, open May-Oct) The D918 links Laruns in the Vallée d’Ossau with Argèles-Gazost in the Vallée de Gaves. An alternative that’s open year- round is the D35 between Louvie-Juzon and Nay. Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m, open most of year) The shortest link between the Aspe and Ossau valleys is the D294, which corkscrews for 21km between Escot and Bielle. Col du Pourtalet (1795m, open most of year) The main crossing into Spain generally stays open year-round except during exceptional snowfall. Col du Tourmalet (2115m, open Jun-Oct) Between Barèges and La Mongie, this is the highest road pass in the Pyrenees. If you’re travelling east to the Pic du Midi (for example from Cauterets), the only alternative is a long detour north via Lourdes and Bagnères-de-Bigorre. 8 Foix trades such as glass blow- provides a handy primer ing, tanning, thatching on the area’s ancient past. Foix is a quiet mountain and nail making, and even It’s a mix of multimedia town, but it’s an excellent has its own blacksmith, exhibits and hands-on base for exploring the baker and cobbler. outdoor displays, explor- eastern Pyrenees. Loom- ing everything from pre- ing above town is the 4 p161 historic carving to the art triple-towered Château de The Drive » Spend the night in of animal-skin tents and Foix (%05 61 05 10 10; adult/ ancient spear-throwing. child €5.60/3.80; h10am- Foix, then head for Tarascon-sur- 6pm summer, shorter hours Ariège, 17km south of Foix on the About 6.5km further rest of year), constructed N20. Look out for brown signs to south, the Grotte de Niaux in the 10th century as a the Parc de la Préhistoire. (www.sites-touristiques-ariege. stronghold for the counts fr; adult/child €12/8) is home of Foix. The interior is TRIP HIGHLIGHT to the Pyrenees’ most pre- rather bare, but there’s a cious cave paintings. The small museum, and the 9 Tarascon-sur- centrepiece is the Salon view from the battlements Ariège Noir, reached after an is glorious. There’s usually 800m walk through the at least one daily tour in Thousands of years ago, darkness and decorated English in summer. the Pyrenees were home with bison, horses and to thriving communities ibex. To help preserve the Afterwards, head 4.5km of hunter-gatherers, who delicate paintings, there’s south to Les Forges de used the area’s caves as no artificial light inside; Pyrène (%05 34 09 30 60; shelters and left behind you’re given a torch as you adult/child €9/6; h10am- many stunning examples enter. The cave can only 6.30pm), a fascinating of prehistoric art. be visited with a guide. ‘living museum’ exploring From April to September Ariège folk traditions. Near Tarascon-sur- there’s usually a daily Spread over 5 hectares, Ariège, the Parc de la tour in English at 1.30pm. it illustrates traditional Préhistoire (%05 61 05 Bookings advised. 10 10; adult/child €11/8.30; h10am-7pm, closed Nov-Mar) 160

Eating & Sleeping Pau 1 Cauterets 6 5 Les Papilles Bistro €€ 5 La Grande Traditional French €€ Insolites Fache (%05 59 71 43 79; www.lespapillesinsolites. (%06 08 93 76 30; 5 rue Richelieu; fondue per blogspot.co.uk; 5 rue Alexander Taylor; lunch/ person €18-23; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm) FRANCE 11 The Pyrenees dinner menu €22/45, mains around €23; You’re in the mountains, so really you should be h12.15-2pm & 8-9.30pm Wed-Sat) Run by a eating artery-clogging, cheese-heavy dishes former Parisian sommelier, this cosy bar-bistro such as tartiflette (potatoes, cheese and bacon pitches itself between a bistro and a wine shop. baked in a casserole), raclette and fondue. This It serves beautifully prepared, ingredient-rich family-run restaurant crammed with mountain dishes like Galician-style octopus with potatoes, memorabilia will oblige. fennel and olive tapenade, or beef with leeks, 4 Hôtel du Lion d’Or Hotel €€ tempura and lemongrass-raspberry reduction. (%05 62 92 52 87; www.liondor.eu; 12 rue Complete the experience with the owner’s Richelieu; s €76-86, d €80-162, with half-board s/d choice of one of the 350-odd wines stacked from €119/144; W) This Heidi-esque hotel oozes around the shop. Gorgeously Gallic. mountain character from every nook and cranny. 4 Hôtel Bristol Hotel €€ In business since 1913, it is deliciously eccentric, (%05 59 27 72 98; www.hotelbristol-pau. with charming old rooms in polkadot pinks, sunny com; 3 rue Gambetta; s €55-100, d €80-110, yellows and duck-egg blues, and mountain- f €120-130; pW) A classic old French hotel themed knick-knacks dotted throughout, from with surprisingly up-to-date rooms, all wrapped antique sleds to snowshoes. Breakfast includes up in a fine 19th-century building. Each room homemade honey and jams, and the restaurant is uniquely designed, with stylish decor, serves hearty Pyrenean cuisine. bold artwork and elegant furniture; while big windows fill the rooms with light. Ask for a Foix 8 mountain-view room with balcony. Breakfast costs €12. 4 Hôtel Eychenne Hotel €€ St-Savin 4 (%05 61 65 00 04; www.hotel-eychenne.com; 11 rue Peyrevidal; s/d €50/60; W) In a good 4 Hôtel des Rochers Hotel €€ location in the centre of Foix, Hôtel Eychenne has simple, carpeted rooms with wooden (%05 62 97 09 52; www.lesrochershotel.com; 1 shutters and bathrooms of a vaguely futuristic place du Castillou; d €60-68, tr €95-100; pW) (circa 1960s) design, with capsule-like showers. In the idyllic village of St-Savin, 16km south of There’s an easygoing bar downstairs. Lourdes, this handsomely landscaped hotel 4 Hôtel Restaurant Lons Hotel €€ makes a perfect mountain retreat. It’s run by an (%05 34 09 28 00; www.hotel-lons-foix.com; 6 place Dutilh; r €79-103) One of the better hotels expat English couple, John and Jane, who have in Foix is an old-fashioned affair with rambling corridors and functional but comfy rooms, some renovated the rooms in clean, contemporary of which look onto the river, while the others face Foix’s shady streets. The riverside restaurant fashion – insist on one with a mountain view. offers good-value half-board (menus €18 to €36). Half-board is available. 161

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1172 2172 4172 7173 9173

SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES © # 12Riviera Crossing French road trips just don’t get more glamorous than this: cinematic views, searing sunshine, art history aplenty and the Med around every turn. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 110 km mK 4 DAYS Èze 110KM / 68 MILES End with a sundowner in a dreamy hilltop village GREAT FOR... Menton BHG # BEST TIME TO GO 62 km #5 # Anytime, but avoid La Grande Corniche #4 July and August’s Cruise the Côte d'Azur's Roquebrune- heavy traffic. most famous road # # Cap-Martin I ESSENTIAL #3 9 Monaco PHOTO Nice Standing beneath Delve into busy markets Augustus’ monumental Trophée and an atmospheric des Alpes, with old town Monaco and the Med far below. 48 km K BEST FOR lL # Antibes St-Paul de GLAMOUR #1 Vence # Strolling the Croisette Paint your own pictures in Cannes and fulfilling Juan-les-Pins in this hilltop artists' those film-star fantasies. hideaway Cannes 28 km Cinematic heritage and cinematic views to match 0 km LMoecnattoionnSCeaspitdioentodwentaoilfsptoeagcoefhuelrgeardens and belle-époque mansions 163

12 Riviera Crossing Cruising the Côte d’Azur is the French road trip everyone has to do at least one in their lifetime. From film town Cannes to down-to-earth Nice via the corkscrew turns of the Corniches and into millionaire’s Monaco, it’s a drive that you’ll remember forever (and hopefully not because of the dreadful summer traffic). Filmmakers, writers, celebs and artists have all had their hearts stolen by this glittering stretch of coastline: by the end of this trip, you’ll understand why. w Berre les Alpes#\\ CMoal ddoenlea # /·0¸GF ·//·I# # # /·#Km ##\\PCLlaaoutuespas#\\uoMGGdlser#\\AoAeuCCsRoLrauCilIPLdpilTrèdeheo-iErèrILeânMenSBrotGsCe#\\ea-uEs#\\#\\arorCpSaC-uuBo#\\snor#\\r#\\sumeuaeOrLd#\\urmmeeuspfseaiePLogft#\\ooato#\\unenuRsptleoleLsTLqsaLsoou-((a#\\CVCu9Puue3#\\o6rebC3oifrn-coln3r7iolLèelsrdmmcelorttlBee--eetu))soeRpuysVBr-o(Bia-S6lnLlole7BtaJ(ouL3#\\n-e8RnaLuP#\\moa0edoca#\\pnuaus0ue)LVGnbsmvuRed#\\3eeeealG)eSBtnt-u#\\datcr#\\d-etoeCJVetcSeiCaiVlè#\\leat#\\lrCsraa-e-rne#\\LuNragonnsrargeseodcC-e#\\u\\#nM#\\usuterre-foe-#\\esNV#\\snrN-Sd7at2dutr#\\-0\\#-8e2MVSCata-raIr#\\sg#–tiiCnndeoNoAINLsln9roé8iCeatcmGreeAooGrra8-pnraTLCRrrnoaNnMpesaoôéPtr#\\2idVvguniCittcao0oceeeLiirrndhool0n(neecalCd3tnneeeaBtsNoM7T'GtatfAlo]#Bs54reerlrarrzonaumi-sotdoonunnirurRnsec#\\)ir-tgcrthMRelehhael5#\\eé#\\ear- sFLCeaCSBs#\\#r\\(aoG#\\Èau5rePcpl#\\a1izrrande2t-aNSCeduMti'm7LvlÈ-t#\\aelleMa-oiez)pJ#\\e9ÈPnerTeauFzeMu#\\ar-eMeirtnl(-ilborBFPne1-sorio1ne#\\aueen#\\1n(atairt0#\\9l-tulcmAe2Mvso7ig)eoemReilr\\#le#_l8)#\\eilcÉ É É Var É É #\\ Grasse Villeneuve- Mouans- #\\ Loubet- Sartoux #\\ Valbonne Biot Plage MeditSereraanean ¸0 H#Sophia ·/N85 #\\ #\\ D103 #\\ Antipolis p167 GF/·A8 8 #\\ Mougins Golfe- Auribeau- Juan sur-Siagne #\\ ###\\ #]2 Antibes Vallauris LlMandelieu- #\\ 2#\\ Juan-les-Pins #La Napoule #\\ Le Cannet H##\\ Cannes- Cannes GJuoalfne #Ù Plage de Palm la Garoupe La Bocca #]1 #\\ Ù# Beach Cap e# d'Antibes 0 10 km Golfe de 0 5 miles p166 Napoule

TRIP HIGHLIGHT a must-do, as is a night- 2 Antibes & Juan- FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing time stroll along the les-Pins 1 Cannes boulevard, illuminated by coloured lights. A century or so ago, What glitzier opening Antibes and Juan-les-Pins could there be to this Outside festival time, were a refuge for artists, Côte d’Azur cruise than Cannes still feels irresist- writers, aristocrats and Cannes, which is just as ibly ritzy. Private beaches hedonistic expats looking cinematic as its reputa- and grand hotels line the to escape the horrors of tion suggests. Come July seafront; further west post-WWI Europe. They during the film festival, lies old Cannes. Follow came in their droves – the world’s stars descend rue St-Antoine and snake F Scott Fitzgerald wrote on boulevard de la Croi- your way up Le Suquet, several books here, and sette (aka La Croisette) Cannes’ atmospheric Picasso rented a minia- to stroll beneath the original village. Pick up ture castle (it’s now a mu- palms, plug their latest the region’s best produce seum dedicated to him). opus and hobnob with at Marché Forville, a the media and movie couple of blocks back First stop is the beach moguls. Getting your from the port. resort of Juan-les-Pins. It’s a long way from the picturewsnapped outside Not seduced? Then fashionable resort of head to the Îles de Fitzgerald’s day, but the the Palais des Festivals is Lérins, two islands a beaches are still good for É 20-minute boat ride sun-lounging (even if you Castellar Roverino#\\ away. Tiny and traffic- do have to pay). Ste-Agnès \\# w free, they’re perfect for LIGURIA walks or a picnic. Boats Then it’s on around \\# Ventimiglia \\# for the islands leave the peninsula of Cap from quai des Îles, on d’Antibes, where many of Gorbio \\# the western side of the the great and good had \\# Mortola harbour. their holiday villas: the \\# Garavan Menton Hotel Cap du Eden Roc #R 5 4 p172 was one of their favourite Roquebrune ]#7 The Drive »The most scenic fashionable haunts. É Round the peninsula is route to Antibes is via the pretty Antibes, with a \\# \\# Carnolès coastal D6007. Bear right onto harbour full of pleasure #É 6\\# Roquebrune- av Frères Roustan before Golfe boats and an old town MCaarptinCap-Martin Juan. With luck and no tailbacks, ringed by medieval #\\# Côte d'Azur you should hit Juan-les-Pins in 30 minutes or so. #_8 #\\ LINK a Atlantic to Med YOUR Cover the whole TRIP south of France by combining these coastal 8 Essential France trips which intersect at This trip makes a Cannes and Nice. natural extension of our grand tour of France's unmissable sights. 165

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing ramparts. Aim to arrive now start following signs to It’s now one of the before lunchtime, when St-Paul. Riviera’s most exclusive the atmospheric Marché locations, a haven for Provençal will still be TRIP HIGHLIGHT artists, film stars and in full swing, and then celebrities, not to men- browse the nearby Musée 3 St-Paul de Vence tion hordes of sightseers, Picasso (%04 92 90 54 20; many of whom are here www.antibes-juanlespins. Once upon a time, hilltop to marvel at the incred- com/culture/musee-picasso; St-Paul de Vence was ible art collection at the Château Grimaldi, 4 rue des just another village Fondation Maeght (%04 Cordiers; adult/concession like countless others in 93 32 81 63; www.fondation- €6/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Provence. But then the maeght.com; 623 chemin des mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-noon artists moved in: paint- Gardettes; adult/child €15/10; & 2-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid- ers such as Marc Chagall h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm Jun) to see a few of the and Pablo Picasso sought Oct-Jun). Created in 1964 artist’s Antibes-themed solitude here, painted the by collectors Aimé and works. local scenery and traded Merguerite Maeght, it canvases for room and boasts works by all the 5 4 p172 board (this is how the big 20th-century names – Colombe d’Or (%04 93 32 Miró sculptures, Chagall The Drive »Brave the traffic 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor mosaics, Braque windows .com; place de Gaulle; d and canvases by Picasso, on the D6007 and avoid signs to €250-430; hrestaurant Matisse and others. turn onto the A8 motorway: it’s noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm the D2 you want, so follow signs late Dec-Oct; aWs) hotel While you’re here, it’s for Villeneuve-Loubet. When you came by its stellar art worth taking a detour reach the town, cross the river. collection). northwards to Vence, You’ll pass through a tunnel into where the marvellous the outskirts of Cagnes-sur-Mer; Chapelle du Rosaire DETOUR: (Rosary Chapel; %04 93 58 CORNICHE DE 03 26; 466 av Henri Matisse; L’ESTÉREL adult/child €6/3; h2-5.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat, 10-11.30am Start: 1 Cannes (p165) & 2-5.30pm Tue & Thu, closed mid-Nov–early Dec) was West of Cannes, the winding coast road known as designed by an ailing the Corniche de l’Estérel (sometimes known as the Henri Matisse. He had a Corniche d’Or, the Golden Road) is well worth a side hand in everything here, trip if you can spare the time. Opened in 1903 by the from the stained-glass Touring Club de France, this twisting coast road is windows to the altar and as much about driving pleasure as getting from A to candlesticks. B; it runs for 30 unforgettable coastal kilometres all the way to St-Raphael. En route you’ll pass seaside The Drive »Return the way villages, secluded coves (sandy, pebbled, nudist, cove- like, you name it) and the rocky red hills of the Massif you came, only this time follow de l’Estérel, dotted with gnarly oaks, juniper and wild the blue signs onto the A8 thyme. Wherever you go, the blue Mediterranean motorway to Nice. Take exit 50 shimmers alongside, tempting you to stop for just one for Promenade des Anglais, more swim. It’s too much to resist. which will take you all 18km along the Baie des Anges. The views are great, but you’ll hit nightmare traffic at rush hour. 166

TRIP HIGHLIGHT %04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac- A Thief, when Grace Kelly FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing nice.org; place Yves Klein; and Cary Grant cruised 4 Nice h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). the hills in a convertible, enjoying sparkling banter With its mix of real-city 5 4 p151, p172 and searing blue Mediter- grit, old-world opulence The Drive »Head out of the ranean views? Well you’re and year-round sunshine, about to tackle the very Nice is the undisputed city through Riquier on the same drive – so don your capital of the Côte d’Azur. D2564. You don’t want the shades, roll down the win- Sure, the traffic’s hor- motorway – you want to hit bd dows and hit the asphalt. rendous and the beach is Bischoffsheim, which becomes made entirely of pebbles bd de l’Observatoire as it climbs It’s a roller coaster of (not a patch of sand in up to the summit of Mont Gros. a road, veering through sight!), but that doesn’t Take it all in, stop for the pan- hairpins and switchbacks detract from its charms. city views, then get ready to as it heads into the hills It’s a great base, with really drive. The next 12km are above Nice. There are loads of hotels and res- thrilling, twisting past the Parc countless picnic spots taurants, and character Naturel Régional de la Grande and photo opportunities in every nook and cranny. Corniche. Pull over and make along the way, including use of the picnic tables if you the Col d’Èze, the road’s Start with a morning wish, or take a break for a hilly highest point at 512m. stroll (p200) through hike, then continue to La Turbie. Further on you’ll pass the huge food and the monumental Roman flower markets on cours TRIP HIGHLIGHT landmark known as the Saleya, then delve into Trophée des Alpes (%04 the winding alleyways of 5 La Grande 93 41 20 84; http://la-turbie. the old town, Vieux Nice, Corniche with many backstreet monuments-nationaux.fr; 18 av restaurants where you Remember that sexy scene can try local speciali- from Hitchcock’s To Catch Albert Ier, La Turbie; adult/child ties such as pissaladière (onion tart topped with DETOUR: olives and anchovies) BIOT and socca (chickpea-flour pancake). Stop for an ice Start: 2 Antibes & Juan-les-Pins (p165) cream at famous Fenoc- chio (p172) – flavours This 15th-century hilltop village was once an include tomato, lavender, important pottery-manufacturing centre. The advent olive and fig – then spend of metal containers brought an end to this, but Biot the afternoon sunbathing is still active in handicraft production, especially on the beaches along the glassmaking. At the foot of the village, the Verrerie seafront Promenade des de Biot (%04 93 65 03 00; www.verreriebiot.com; chemin Anglais before catching des Combes; museum adult/child €3/1.50; h9.30am-7.30pm an epic sunset. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct- Mar) produces bubbled glass by rolling molten glass If you have the time, into baking soda; bubbles from the chemical reaction the city has some great are then trapped by a second layer of glass. You can museums too – you’ll need watch skilled glass-blowers at work and browse the at least an afternoon to adjacent art galleries and shop. There are also guided explore all of the modern tours (€6), during which you get the chance to try masterpieces at the Musée your hand at a spot of glass-blowing – and learn why d’Art Moderne et d’Art it’s probably best left to the professionals. Contemporain (MAMAC; 167

DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS AROBYN MACKENZIE / SHUTTERSTOCKS © GREAT TRIP OLIVER BERRY, WRITER If there were a top 10 of French road trips, this would have to figure near the top. It takes in most of the quintessential sights of the Côte d’Azur, from seaside cities to hilltop villages, and tackles the hairpin turns and hair-raising drops of the three clifftop roads known as the Corniches. The views are simply stunning – simply put, it’s one of the world’s must-do drives. Top: St-Paul de Vence Left: Èze Right: Harbour, Cannes 168

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing€5.50/free; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun mid- DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES © May–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm rest of year), a magnificent triumphal arch built to commemo- rate Augustus’ victory over the last remaining Celtic-Ligurian tribes who had resisted con- quest. The views from here are jaw-dropping, stretching all the way to Monaco and Italy beyond. The Drive »Monte Carlo may sparkle and beckon below, but keep your eyes on the road; the principality will keep for another day. Stay on the D2564 to skirt Monaco for another amazing 10km, then turn right into the D52 to Roquebrune. 6 Roquebrune-Cap- Martin This village of two halves feels a world away from the glitz of nearby Monaco: the coastline around Cap Martin re- mains relatively unspoilt, as if Roquebrune had left its clock on medieval time. The historic half of the town, Roquebrune itself, sits 300m high on a pudding-shaped lump. It towers over the Cap, but they are, in fact, linked by innumerable, very steep steps. The village is delight- ful, free of tack, and there are sensational views of the coast from the main village square, place des Deux Frères. Of all Roquebrune’s steep streets, rue Moncollet – 169

FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing with its arcaded passages the Riviera once looked free.fr; av St-Jacques; adult/ and stairways carved like, before the high child €6.50/5; h10am- out of rock – is the rises, casinos and prop- 12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Wed- most impressive. Scurry erty developers moved in. Mon May-Aug, 10am-12.30pm upwards to find architect It’s ripe for wandering, & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Sep-Apr), Le Corbusier’s grave at with peaceful gardens where terraces overflow the cemetery at the top and belle-èpoque man- with fruit trees, and the of the village (in section sions galore, as well as beautiful, once-aban- J, and, yes, he did design an attractive yacht-filled doned Jardin de la Serre his own tombstone). harbour. Meander the de la Madone (%04 93 57 historic quarter all the 73 90; www.serredelamadone. The Drive »Continue along way to the Cimetière du com; 74 rte de Gorbio; adult/ Vieux Château (montée du child €8/4; h10am-6pm Tue- the D52 towards the coast, Souvenir; h7am-8pm May- Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Jan-Mar, following promenade du Cap- Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) for the closed Nov-Dec), overgrown Martin all the way along the best views in town. with rare plants. The seafront to Menton. You’ll be tourist office’s garden there in 10 minutes, traffic Menton’s miniature website (www.jardins- permitting. microclimate enables menton.fr) has a list and exotic plants to flourish opening times. 7 Menton here, many of which you can see at the Jardin Spend your second Last stop on the coast night in town. before Italy, the beautiful Botanique Exotique du seaside town of Menton Val Rahmeh (%04 93 35 5 4 p173 offers a glimpse of what 86 72; http://jardinvalrahmeh. PERFUME IN GRASSE Up in the hills to the north of Nice, the town of Grasse has been synonymous with perfumery since the 16th century, and the town is still home to around 30 makers – several of which offer guided tours of their factories, and the chance to hone your olfactory skills. It can take up to 10 years to train a perfumier, but since you probably don’t have that much time to spare, you’ll have to make do with a crash course. Renowned maker Molinard (%04 93 36 01 62; www.molinard.com; 60 bd Victor Hugo; 30min/1hr workshops €30/69; h9.30am-6.30pm) runs workshops ranging from 30-minute sessions to two hours, during which you get to create your own custom perfume (sandalwood, vanilla, hyacinth, lily of the valley, civet, hare and rose petals are just a few of the potential notes you could include). At the end of the workshop, you’ll receive a bottle of eau de parfum to take home. Galimard (%04 93 09 20 00; www.galimard.com; 73 rte de Cannes; workshops from €49; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) and Fragonard’s Usine Historique (%04 93 36 44 65; www.fragonard.com; 20 bd Fragonard; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Sep-Jun) offer similar workshops. For background, it’s also worth making time to visit the Musée International de la Parfumerie (MIP; %04 97 05 58 11; www.museesdegrasse.com; 2 bd du Jeu de Ballon; adult/ child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Sep, 10.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr; c) and its nearby gardens (%04 92 98 62 69; www.museesdegrasse.com; 979 chemin des Gourettes, Mouans-Sartoux; adult/child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm mid-Mar–Apr & Sep–mid-Nov, closed mid-Nov–mid-Mar), where you can see some of the many plants and flowers used in scent-making. Needless to say, the bouquet is overpowering. 170

The Drive »Leave Menton Monaco’s royal family It’s undoubtedly delight- FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing (time your visit for the ful but it’s the ever- on the D6007, the Moyenne pomptastic changing of present views of the coast Corniche, skirting the upper the guard at 11.55am). that are truly mesmeris- perimeter of Monaco. When Nearby is the impressive ing. They just get more you’re ready turn off into Musée Océanographique spectacular from the Monaco, take your pick of the de Monaco, stocked with car parks (they all charge the all kinds of deep-sea Jardin Exotique d’Èze same rate, capped at €20 per denizens. It even has a (%04 93 41 10 30; adult/ day). Good options include the 6m-deep lagoon complete child €6/2.50; h9am-7.30pm Chemin des Pêcheurs and Stade with circling sharks. Jul-Sep, to 6.30pm Apr-May & Louis II for old Monaco, or the Jun, to 5.30pm rest of year), a huge underground Casino car Round things off surreal cactus garden at park by allèes des Boulingrins with a stroll around the the top of the village, so for central Monte Carlo. cliffside Jardin Exotique steep and rocky it may and the obligatory photo have been purpose-built 8 Monaco of Monaco’s harbour, for mountain goats. It’s bristling with over-the- also where you’ll find This pint-sized principal- top yachts. the old castle ruins; take ity (covering barely 200 time to sit, draw a deep hectares) is ridiculous, The Drive »Pick up where breath and gaze, as few absurd, ostentatious places on earth offer such and fabulous all at you left off on the Moyenne a panorama. once. A playground of Corniche (D6007), and follow its the super-rich, with circuitous route back up into the Èze gets very crowded super-egos to match, it’s hills all the way to Èze. between 10am and 5pm; the epitome of Riviera if you prefer a quiet wan- excess – especially at the TRIP HIGHLIGHT der, plan to be here early famous Casino de Monte in the morning or before Carlo, where cards turn, 9 Èze dinner. Or even better, roulette wheels spin and treat yourself to a night eye-watering sums are This rocky little village and a slap-up supper at won and lost. perched on an impossible the swish Château Eza, a peak is the jewel in the fitting finish to this most For all its glam, Riviera crown. The main memorable of road trips. Monaco’s not all show. attraction is technically Up in the hilltop quarter the medieval village, 4 p173 of Le Rocher, shady with small higgledy-­ streets surround the piggledy stone houses Grimaldi Palace, the and winding lanes (and, wedding-cake castle of yes, galleries and shops). 171

/ GETTY IMAGES © FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing Eating & Sleeping Cannes 1 Antibes 2 5 Bobo Bistro Mediterranean € 5 La Badiane Fusion € (%04 93 99 97 33; 21 rue du Commandant (%04 93 34 45 41; 3 traverse du 24 Août; lunch André; pizza €12-16, mains €15-20; hnoon-3pm menus €17-18.50, mains €13-15; hlunch Mon-Fri) & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun) Predictably, This little side street behind Antibes’ bus station it’s a ‘bobo’ (bourgeois bohemian) crowd that has a clutch of great lunchtime restaurants, gathers at this achingly cool bistro in Cannes’ including this exotic Moroccan-tinged diner, fashionable Carré d’Or (Golden Sq). Decor is which serves up yummy treats like chicken tagine, stylishly retro, with attention-grabbing objets crispy pastillas (filled pastries) and spicy quiches. d’art like a tableau of dozens of spindles of Shame it’s only open for lunch on weekdays. coloured yarn. Cuisine is local, seasonal and 4 Hôtel La Jabotte B&B €€ invariably organic: artichoke salad, tuna (%04 93 61 45 89; www.jabotte.com; 13 av Max carpaccio with passion fruit, roasted cod with Maurey; d from €120; a iW) A couple of mash fait masion (homemade). kilometres south of the old town on the coastal bd 4 Hôtel Le Boutique Hotel €€ James Wyllie towards Cap d’Antibes, this pretty Mistral little hideaway makes a cosy base. Hot pinks, (%04 93 39 91 46; www.mistral-hotel.com; 13 sunny yellows and soothing mauves dominate the rue des Belges; s €89-109, d €99-129; aW) homey, feminine decor, and there’s a sweet patio For super-pricey Cannes, this little 10-roomer where breakfast is served on sunny days. There’s is quite amazing value. Rooms are small but a minimum stay of three nights in summer. decked out in flattering red and plum tones – Privilege rooms have quite a bit more space, Nice 4 plus a fold-out sofa bed. There are sea views from the top floor, and the hotel is just 50m 5 Fenocchio Ice Cream € from La Croisette. There’s no lift, though. 4 Villa Garbo Boutique Hotel €€€ (%04 93 80 72 52; www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place (%04 93 46 66 00; www.villagarbo-cannes.com; Rossetti; 1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight 62 bd d’Alsace; d from €230; a iW) For a Feb-Oct) There’s no shortage of ice-cream sellers taste of Cannes’ celeb lifestyle, this indulgent in the old town, but this maître glacier (master stunner is hard to beat. Rooms are more like ice-cream maker) has been king of the scoops apartments, offering copious space, plus since 1966. The array of flavours is mind- kitchenettes, king-size beds, sofas and more. boggling – olive, tomato, fig, beer, lavender and The style is designer chic – acid tones of puce, violet are just a few to try. Dither too long over orange and lime contrasted with blacks and the 70-plus flavours and you’ll never make it to greys, supplemented by quirky sculptures and the front of the queue. For a Niçois twist, ask for objets d’art. Unusually, rates include breakfast. tourte de blette (a sweet chard tart with raisins, pine kernels and parmesan). 172

5 Le Bistrot Modern French €€ Menton 7 d’Antoine (%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; 5 Le Cirke Seafood €€ menus €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm (%04 89 74 20 54; www.restaurantlecirke. & 7-10pm Tue-Sat) A quintessential French com; 1 square Victoria; menus lunch €26 & €29, bistro, right down to the checked tablecloths, dinner €30 & €45, mains €18-35; hnoon- streetside tables and impeccable service – not 1.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Wed-Mon) From paella to to mention the handwritten blackboard, loaded bouillabaisse, grilled fish to fried calamari, this with classic dishes like rabbit pâté, pot-cooked smart Italian-run restaurant is the place to turn pork, blood sausage and duck breast. If you’ve to for delicious seafood. The wine list is a mix of never eaten classic French food, this is definitely Italian and French wines, and the service is as FRANCE 12 Riviera Crossing the place to start; and if you have, you’re in for sunny as Menton itself. a treat. 4 Hôtel Le Genève Hotel €€ 4 Hôtel Napoléon Boutique Hotel €€ (%04 93 56 84 79; www.hotel-le-geneve-nice. (%04 93 35 89 50; www.napoleon-menton.com; 29 porte de France; d €95-330; a iWs) com; 1 rue Cassini; r €135-169; aW) Situated Standing tall on the seafront, the Napoléon is Menton’s most stylish sleeping option. Everything just off place Garibaldi, this renovated corner from the pool, the restaurant-bar and the back garden (a heaven of freshness in summer) has hotel is bang in the middle of Nice’s lively Petit been beautifully designed. Rooms are decked out in white and blue, with Cocteau drawings on Marais quartier. Bedrooms look sleek in cool headboards. Sea-facing rooms have balconies but are a little noisier because of the traffic. greys, crimsons and charcoals; bathrooms are modern and well-appointed. Breakfast is served in the ground-floor cafe, brimful of vintage bric-a-brac and mismatched furniture. Bars and cafes abound here. 4 Hôtel Villa Boutique Hotel €€ Èze 9 Rivoli (%04 93 88 80 25; www.villa-rivoli.com; 10 rue 4 Château Eza Luxury Hotel €€€ de Rivoli; s €96, d €116-178, f €254; aW) This (%04 93 41 12 24; www.chateaueza.com; rue de charming but strangely shaped villa dates back la Pise; d from €360; aW) If you’re looking for to 1890, and it’s packed with period detail – a place to propose, well, there can be few more gilded mirrors, fireplaces, cast-iron balconies memorable settings than this wonderful clifftop and old-world wallpapers, as well as little hotel, perched dramatically above the glittering conifer trees on the balconies and a sweeping blue Mediterranean. There are only 12 rooms, so marble staircase. Rooms are on the small side, it feels intimate, but the service is impeccable, and some are showing their age. There’s a small and the regal decor (gildedCmapirtiroonrCsa,pstuiomnCpatputoiounsCaption garden and car park beside the hotel. fabrics, antiques) explains the sky-high price tag. 173

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1183 5183

ESPERANZA33 / GETTY IMAGES © # Champagne 13Taster From musty cellars to vine-striped hillsides, this Champagne adventure whisks you through the heart of the region to explore the world’s favourite celebratory tipple. It’s time to quaff! TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 0 km lL##1 25 km 3 DAYS Reims Verzenay 85KM / 53 MILES Descend into the Climb to the top cellars of Mumm of a lighthouse for GREAT FOR… and Taittinger # Vrigny Champagne views HB Rilly-la- BEST TIME TO GO #Montagne April to June for spring sunshine # # #2 or September and October to see the Mailly- harvest in Champagne. Champagne I ESSENTIAL Cumières # #Dizy PHOTO 65 km #5# Overlooking glossy vineyards from the Épernay 85 km Phare de Verzenay. Tick off the Le Mesnil-sur-Oger prestigious names K BEST FOR along the av de View vintage CULTURE Champagne Champagne-making Sip Champagne in Km##7 equipment at the the cellars of Moët & village museum Chandon. LCohcaamtipoangCnaepVtinoenydaerdtasilaslotonggothheeMrearne River 175

/·A26 GF125 km to 8 ‚ GF349 km to 9 13 Champagne /· \\# Taster A4 Tinqueux ‘My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink enough Champagne,’ wrote the economist John Maynard Vrigny #\\ Keynes, but by the end of this tour, you’ll have Coulommes- drunk enough bubbly to last several lifetimes. Starting and ending at the prestigious Champagne #\\ la-Montagne centres of Reims and Épernay, this fizz-fuelled trip includes stops at some of the world’s most famou#\\s Pargny- #\\ Jouy-lès- Reims producers – with ample time for tasting en route. lès-Reims #\\ Sacy \\# Ecueil #\\ \\# Chamery #\\ Sermiers\\# Pourcy ¸0D386 Poucy #\\ Nanteuil- St- Imoges #\\ la-Forêt Fleury-la- ¸0D951 \\# Rivière Champillon #Hautvillers \\#4 #\\ ¸0D386 #\\ \\# Damery #\\ producer. One-hour tours Cumières \\# Dizy explore its enormous cel-#\\ Marne lars, filled with 25 million /·D1 bottles of bubbly, and TRIP HIGHLIGHT include tastings of several ·/Vauciennes D3 Magenta vintages. #\\# #\\ 1 Reims Épernay 5#\\ North of town, There’s nowhere better Taittinger (%03 26 85 45 Forêt to start your Champagne 35; www.taittinger.com; 9 d'Epernay tour than the regal city of Reims. Several big names place St-Niçaise; tours €17-45; Vinay Moussy have their caves (wine cel- \\# lars) nearby. Mumm (%03 h9.30am-5.30pm, shorter 26 49 59 70; www.mumm.com; \\# /·D10 34 rue du Champ de Mars; tours hours & closed weekends incl tasting €20-45; htours Oct-Mar) provides an Chavot-Courcourt\\# Cuis 9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm daily, informative overview of shorter hours & closed Sun Oct- how Champagne is actu- \\# Mar), pronounced ‘moom’, ally made – you’ll leave is the only maison in with a good understand- Monthelon #\\ central Reims. Founded ing of the production in 1827, it’s the world’s process, from grape to #\\ Mancy #6 third-largest Champagne bottle. Parts of the cellars Morangis \\# #\\ Moslins Forêt de Brugny Bois D'Argensolle #\\ Gionges #\\ Chaltrait \\# Villers- aux-Bois 176

e# 0 10 km occupy Roman stone 0 5 miles quarries dug in the 4th century. Ll Before you leave town, ##]1 Reims don’t forget to drop by Waïda (5 place Drouet \\# d’Erlon; h7.30am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 7.30am-8pm Sat, ¸0D944 8am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm Sun), an old-fashioned 0¸D951 confectioner which sells FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster Reims’ famous biscuits ·/A4 roses (pink biscuits), a sweet treat traditionally Villers- nibbled with a glass of Allerand Champagne. Chigny- Verzenay \\# les-Roses 5 4 p183 The Drive » The countryside \\# #\\# between Reims and Épernay is Rilly-la- #\\ \\# \\#2 carpeted with vineyards, fields Montagne and back roads that are a dream #\\ #Mailly- Verzy to drive through. From Reims, 3#\\ head south along the D951 for Ludes- Champagne 13km. Near Mont Chenot, turn onto the D26, signposted to le-Coquet Rilly and the ‘Route Touristique du Champagne’. The next 12km RégionPaalrdc eNlaatuMroelntagne Villers-#\\ takes you through the pretty de Reims Marmery villages of Rilly-la-Montagne and Mailly-Champagne en route #\\ Germaine Trepail to Verzenay. #\\ Louvois\\# LINK CHAMPAGNE- YOUR ARDENNE TRIP Fontaine- Bouzy 8 Essential France \\# sur-Ay \\# Lying 150km west of Épernay, Paris marks Avenay- \\# \\# the beginning of our epic Val-d'Or journey around France’s Ambonnay most essential sights. #\\ 9 D-Day’s Beaches Mutigny \\# From Épernay head west, skirting Paris, to Caen Tours- (four hours’ drive) to follow Mareuil- sur-Marne Conde- the course of the Normandy \\# sur-Ay sur-Marne invasion of WWII. #\\ Ay #\\ 177 #\\ Marne \\# ·/D3 Chouilly #6 Cramant MARNE \\# Avize ·/D10 #\\ Oger Km#7#\\ Le Mesnil-sur-Oger #\\ 0¸D933

FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster TRIP HIGHLIGHT 3 Verzy it’s where a Benedictine monk by the name of 2 Verzenay This village is home to Dom Pierre Pérignon several small vineyards is popularly believed to Reims marks the start that provide an interest- have created Champagne of the 70km Montagne ing contrast to the big in the late 16th century. de Reims Champagne producers. Étienne and The great man’s tomb lies Route, the prettiest (and Anne-Laure Lefevre in front of the altar of the most prestigious) of the (%03 26 97 96 99; www.cham Église Abbatiale. three signposted road pagne-etienne-lefevre.com; 30 routes that wind their rue de Villers; h9-11.30am The village itself is way through the Cham- & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) well worth a stroll, with a pagne vineyards. Of the run group tours of their jumble of lanes, timbered 17 grand cru villages family-owned vineyards houses and stone-walled in Champagne, nine lie and cellars – if you’re on vineyards. On place de la on and around the your own, ring ahead République, the tourist Montagne, a hilly area to see if you can join a office (%03 26 57 06 35; whose sheltered slopes pre-arranged tour. There www.tourisme-hautvillers. and chalky soils provide are no flashy videos or com; place de la République; the perfect environment multimedia shows – the h9.30am-1pm & 1.30-5.30pm for viticulture (grape emphasis is firmly on the Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun, short- growing). nitty-gritty of Cham- er hours winter) hands out pagne production. free maps detailing local Most of the area’s vine- vineyard walks; one-hour yards are devoted to the For a glass of fizz high guided tours cost €3 (€5 pinot noir grape. You’ll above the treetops, seek with a tasting). pass plenty of produc- out the sleek Perching ers offering dégustation Bar (www.perchingbar. Steps away is Au 36 (tasting) en route. It’s eu; Forêt de Brise-Charrette; (www.au36.net; 36 rue Dom up to you how many hnoon-2pm & 4-8pm Wed- Pérignon; h10.30am-6pm you choose to visit – but Sun mid-Apr–mid-Dec) deep Tue-Sun, closed Christmas- whatever you do, don’t in the forest. early Mar), a wine boutique miss the panorama of with a ‘wall’ of Cham- vines seen from the top The Drive » Stay on the pagne quirkily arranged of the Phare de Verzenay by aroma. There’s a (Verzenay Lighthouse; www. D26 south of Verzy, and enjoy tasting room upstairs; a lepharedeverzenay.com; D26; wide-open countryside views two-/three-glass session lighthouse adult/child €3/2, as you spin south to Ambonnay. costs €12/16. museum €8/4, combined Detour west onto the D19, ticket €9/5; h10am-5pm signed to Bouzy, and bear right The Drive » From the centre Tue-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun, onto the D1 along the northern closed Jan), a lighthouse bank of the Marne River. When of the village, take the rte de constructed as a publicity you reach the village of Dizy, Cumières for grand views across gimmick in 1909. Nearby, follow signs onto the D386 to the vine-cloaked slopes. Follow the Jardin Panoramique Hautvillers. It’s a total drive of the road all the way to the D1, demonstrates the four 32km or 45 minutes. turn left and follow signs to authorised techniques for Épernay’s centre-ville, 6km to tying grapevines to guide 4 Hautvillers the south. wires. Next stop is the hilltop TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Drive » Continue south village of Hautvillers, a hallowed name among 5 Épernay along the D26 for 3km. Champagne aficionados: The prosperous town of Épernay is the self- 178

proclaimed capitale du Most of the big names frequent and fascinat- champagne and is home are arranged along the ing one-hour tours of its to many of the most grand av de Champagne. prestigious cellars, while illustrious Champagne Moët & Chandon (%03 26 at nearby Mercier (%03 houses. Beneath the 51 20 20; www.moet.com; 20 26 51 22 22; www.champagne streets are an astonish- mercier.fr; 68-70 av de Cham- ing 110km of subterra- av de Champagne; adult incl pagne; adult incl 1/2/3 glasses nean cellars, containing €14/19/22 Mon-Fri, €16/21/25 an estimated 200 million 1/2 glasses €23/28, 10-18yr Sat & Sun, 12-17yr €8; htours bottles of vintage bubbly. 9.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm, €10; htours 9.30-11.30am closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb) FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster & 2-4.30pm Apr–mid-Nov, 9.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri mid-Nov–Mar) offers CHAMPAGNE KNOW-HOW Types of Champagne »»Blanc de Blancs Champagne made using only chardonnay grapes. Fresh and elegant, with very small bubbles and a bouquet reminiscent of ‘yellow fruits’ such as pear and plum. »»Blanc de Noirs A full-bodied, deep golden Champagne made solely with black grapes (despite the colour). Often rich and refined, with great complexity and a long finish. »»Rosé Pink Champagne (mostly served as an aperitif) with a fresh character and summer-fruit flavours. Made by adding a small percentage of red pinot noir to white Champagne. »»Prestige Cuvée The crème de la crème of Champagne. Usually made with grapes from Grand Cru vineyards and priced and bottled accordingly. »»Millésimé Vintage Champagne produced from a single crop during an exceptional year. Most Champagne is nonvintage. Sweetness »»Brut Dry; most common style; pairs well with food. »»Extra Sec Fairly dry but sweeter than Brut; nice as an aperitif. »»Demi Sec Medium sweet; goes well with fruit and dessert. »»Doux Very sweet; a dessert Champagne. Serving & Tasting »»Chilling Chill Champagne in a bucket of ice for 30 minutes before serving. The ideal serving temperature is 7°C to 9°C. »»Opening Grip the bottle securely and tilt it at a 45-degree angle facing away from you. Rotate the bottle slowly to ease out the cork – it should sigh, not pop. »»Pouring Hold the flute by the stem at an angle and let the Champagne trickle gently into the glass – less foam, more bubbles. »»Tasting Admire the colour and bubbles. Swirl your glass to release the aroma and inhale slowly before tasting the Champagne. 179

ALEXEY FEDORENKO / GETTY IMAGES © ONZEG / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP KERRY CHRISTIANI, WRITER You can sip Champagne anywhere, but a road trip really slips under the skin of these Unesco-listed vineyards. Begin with an eye- opening, palate-awakening tour and tasting at grande maison cellars in Épernay and Reims. I love the far-reaching view from Phare de Verzenay and touring the back roads in search of small producers, especially when the aroma of new wine hangs in the air and the vines are golden in autumn. Top: Fortress, Champagne Left: Glasses of Champagne Right: Marne River with Épernay in background

FRANCE 13 Champagne Tastertours take place aboard a laser-guided under- YVES TALENSAC / GETTY IMAGES © ground train. Serious quaffers might prefer the intimate tours at Champagne Georges Cartier (%03 26 32 06 22; www.georgescartier.com; 9 rue Jean Chandon Moët; adult incl 1/2 glasses €12/16, 2-glass Grand Cru €22, 3-glass vintage €35; htours 10.30am, noon, 2.30pm, 4pm Tue-Sun), whose warren of cellars and pas- sageways, hewn out of the chalk in the 18th century, is incredibly atmospheric. Look out for the fasci- nating WWII graffiti. Tours are followed by a tasting of the maison’s Champagnes. Finish with a climb up the 237-step tower at De Castellane (%03 26 51 19 11; www.castellane.com; 57 rue de Verdun; adult incl 1 glass €14, under 12yr free; htours 10am-11pm & 2-5pm, closed Christmas–mid-Mar), which offers knockout views over the town’s rooftops and vine-clad hills. 5 4 p183 The Drive » Head south of town along av Maréchal Foch or av du 8 Mai 1945, following ‘Autres Directions’ signs across the roundabouts until you see signs for Cramant. The village is 10km southeast of Épernay via the D10. 6 Cramant You’ll find it hard to miss this quaint vil- lage, as the northern entrance is heralded 181

FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster THE SCIENCE OF CHAMPAGNE Champagne is made from the red pinot noir (38%), the black pinot meunier (35%) or the white chardonnay (27%) grape. Each vine is vigorously pruned and trained to produce a small quantity of high-quality grapes. Indeed, to maintain exclusivity (and price), the designated areas where grapes used for Champagne can be grown and the amount of wine produced each year are limited. Making Champagne according to the méthode champenoise (traditional method) is a complex procedure. There are two fermentation processes, the first in casks and the second after the wine has been bottled and had sugar and yeast added. Bottles are then aged in cellars for two to five years, depending on the cuvée (vintage). For two months in early spring the bottles are aged in cellars kept at 12°C and the wine turns effervescent. The sediment that forms in the bottle is removed by remuage, a painstakingly slow process in which each bottle, stored horizontally, is rotated slightly every day for weeks until the sludge works its way to the cork. Next comes dégorgement: the neck of the bottle is frozen, creating a blob of solidified Champagne and sediment, which is then removed. by a two-storey-high TRIP HIGHLIGHT press dating to 1630. Champagne bottle. From Reservations can be the ridge above the vil- 7 Le Mesnil-sur- made by phone or online; lage, views stretch out in Oger ask about the availability all directions across the of English tours when Champagne countryside, Finish with a visit to the you book. taking in a patchwork of excellent Musée de la fields, farmhouses and Vigne et du Vin (%03 26 Round off your trip rows upon rows of end- 57 50 15; www.champagne- with lunch at La Gare less vines. Pack a picnic launois.fr; 2 av Eugène Guil- (%03 26 51 59 55; www. and your own bottle of laume, cnr D10; adult incl 3 bubbly for the perfect flutes €12; htours 10am Mon- lagarelemesnil.com; 3 place Champagne country Fri, 10.30am Sat & Sun), where lunch. a local wine-growing de la Gare; menus €18-26; family has assembled a The Drive » Continue collection of century-old hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Wed, Champagne-making southeast along the D10 for equipment. Among the noon-1.30pm & 7-9pm Thu-Sat; 7km, and follow signs to Le- highlights is a massive c), which prides itself on Mesnil-sur-Oger. 16-tonne oak-beam grape serving bistro-style grub prepared with seasonal produce, simple as pork tenderloin with cider and potatoes. There’s a €9 menu for les petits. 182

Eating & Sleeping Reims 1 Épernay 5 5 Brasserie Brasserie €€ 5 La Cave à Regional Cuisine €€ Le Boulingrin Champagne (%03 26 40 96 22; www.boulingrin.fr; 29-31 (%03 26 55 50 70; www.la-cave-a-champagne. rue de Mars; menus €20-29; hnoon-2.30pm & com; 16 rue Gambetta; menus €20-38; hnoon- FRANCE 13 Champagne Taster 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat) A genuine, old-time brasserie 2pm & 7-10pm Thu-Mon; c) ‘The Champagne – the decor and zinc bar date back to 1925 – Cellar’ is well regarded by locals for its whose ambience and cuisine make it an enduring champenoise cuisine (snail-and-pig’s-trotter favourite. From September to June, the culinary casserole, fillet of beef in pinot noir), served focus is on fruits de mer (seafood) such as Breton in a warm, traditional, bourgeois atmosphere. oysters. There’s always a €9.50 lunch special. You can sample four different Champagnes 5 l’Assiette for €28. Champenoise Gastronomy €€€ 5 La Grillade French €€ (%03 26 84 64 64; www.assiettechampenoise. Gourmande com; 40 av Paul-Vaillant-Couturier, Tinqueux; (%03 26 55 44 22; www.lagrilladegourmande. menus €95-255; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm com; 16 rue de Reims; menus €19-59; hnoon- Thu-Mon, 7.30-10pm Wed) Heralded far and 2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) This chic, red-walled wide as one of Champagne’s finest tables and bistro is an inviting spot to try chargrilled meats crowned with the holy grail of three Michelin and dishes rich in texture and flavour, such stars, L’Assiette Champenoise is headed up by as crayfish pan-fried in Champagne and lamb chef Arnaud Lallemen. Listed by ingredients, his cooked in rosemary and honey until meltingly intricate, creative dishes rely on outstanding tender. Diners spill out onto the covered terrace produce and play up integral flavours – be it in the warm months. Breton lobster, or milk-fed lamb with preserved 4 La Villa vegetables. One for special occasions. Eugène Boutique Hotel €€€ 4 Les Telliers B&B €€ (%03 26 32 44 76; www.villa-eugene.com; 84 (%09 53 79 80 74; http://telliers.fr; 18 rue av de Champagne; s €160-177, d €216-343, ste des Telliers; s €67-84, d €79-120, tr €116-141, q €380-398; p aWs) Sitting handsomely €132-162; pW) Enticingly positioned down a astride the av de Champagne in its own grounds quiet alley near the cathedral, this bijou B&B with an outdoor pool, La Villa Eugène is a class extends one of Reims’ warmest bienvenues. act. It’s lodged in a beautiful 19th-century town The high-ceilinged rooms are big on art-deco mansion that once belonged to the Mercier character, and handsomely decorated with family. The roomy doubles exude understated ornamental fireplaces, polished oak floors elegance, with soft, muted hues and the odd and the odd antique. Breakfast costs an extra antique. Splash out more for a private terrace or €9 and is a generous spread of pastries, fruit, four-poster bed. fresh-pressed juice and coffee. 183

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1193 2193 6193 7193 8193

JULIAN ELLIOTT / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES © Châteaux of 14the Loire For centuries, France’s longest river has been a backdrop for royal intrigue and extravagant castles. This trip weaves nine of the Loire Valley’s most spectacular and sublimely beautiful châteaux. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS #9Km#Blois 5 DAYS # 189KM / 118 MILES 189 km Chambord GREAT FOR… France's château superstar, a royal hunting GB lodge on steroids BEST TIME TO GO 120 km Amboise May and June for Charles VIII's Loire-side good cycling weather; birthplace and Da July for gardens and Vinci's last home special events. # Villandry ##6 I ESSENTIAL ##5 PHOTO ##4 Château de Chenon­ Ll# ceau’s graceful arches reflected in the Cher Chinon River. Azay-le-Rideau Chenonceaux K BEST TWO A Renaissance Wander a fairy-tale DAYS jewel on a lovely landscape of reflected island arches and riverside The stretch between 52 km gardens Chenonceau and 107 km Chambord takes in the true classics. LCochaetnioonncCeaaputxioCnhdâetteaaiulsdtoe Cgohehneorenceau 185

14 Châteaux of the Loire From warring medieval warlords to the kings and queens of Renaissance France, a parade of powerful men and women have left their mark on the Loire Valley. The result is France’s most magnificent collection of castles. This itinerary visits nine of the Loire’s most iconic châteaux, ranging from austere medieval fortresses to ostentatious royal pleasure palaces. Midway through, a side trip leads off the beaten track to four lesser-known châteaux. Le Lude \\# FG8 TOURAINE Noyant \\# ·/A28 \\# \\# #\\ Châteaux- #\\ Beaumont- Château- la-Vallière la-Ronce Renault Neuillé- Pont-Pierre ·/A10 PAYS DE 0¸D959 Reugny \\# LA LOIRE Poce-sur- Cisse Nazelles- \\# Vernantes \\# Gizeux Rochecorbon Vouvray Négron #\\ #\\ \\# \\# #Amboise 6#\\ Tours #] #\\ /·D81 Villandry Langeais Montlouis- CENTRE #\\#3 #\\ Savonnières sur-Loire # ·/ ·/Bourgueil Bleré \\#2 D7 #\\ Vallères Montbazon Truyes D39 D16 p189 A85 \\# Azay-le- P4#\\e\\#rreD8S4 a#\\\\#ché /· /· /· H# ·/A85 Rideau #\\ Île St- Rigny- Monts #\\ Esvres Martin Ussé d'Ussé #\\ #\\ \\# D45 #\\ \\# Courçay Veigne #\\ D7 V# \\# /· # ·/\\# Cormery /·Montsoreau \\# D17 Indre #\\ HuisCmheâsteau Artannes \\# Sablonnière 0¸\\# \\#Candes-St-Martin /· FGD16 # ·/ ¸0\\#1 Chinon LlLerne D751 8 INDRE- \\# Reignac- #\\ Parc Naturel Régional sur-Indre ET-LOIRE LoTioruerAainnjeou A10 D943 Isle Vienne #\\ Auger #\\ Se#\\uilly Forêt de Sainte- Loches I ndr POITOU- Chinon \\# Maure-de- #\\ CHARENTES e FG191 km to 10‚ Touraine

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire1 Chinondown in the medieval(%02 47 96 72 60; www. part of town (along rue chateau-de-langeais.com; CTucked between the Voltaire), several fine adult/child €9/5; h9.30am- dr medieval Forteresse Roy- buildings dating from the 6.30pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am- ale de Chinon (%02 47 93 15th to 17th centuries. 5pm mid-Nov–Mar) – built 13 45; www.forteressechinon. in the 1460s – is superbly fr; adult/child €8.50/6.50; 4 p193 preserved inside and out, h9.30am-7pm May-Aug, to The Drive » Follow the D16 looking much as it did at 5pm or 6pm Sep-Apr) – a the tail end of the Middle magnificent hilltop castle north of Chinon for 10km, then Ages, with crenellated – and the Vienne River, head 15km east on the D7 past ramparts and massive Chinon is forever etched the fairy-tale Château d’Ussé towers dominating the in France’s collective (the inspiration for the fairy tale surrounding village. memory as the venue of Sleeping Beauty) to Lignières, Original 15th-century fur- Joan of Arc’s first meet- where you catch the D57 3km niture and Flemish tap- ing with Charles VII, north into Langeais. estries fill its flagstoned future king of France, in chambers. In one room, 1429. Highlights include 2 Langeais a life-size wax-figure superb panoramas from tableau portrays the mar- the castle’s ramparts and, The most medieval of riage of Charles VIII and the Loire châteaux, the Anne of Brittany, held Château de Langeais here on 6 December 1491, which brought about the e# 0 mK#Loir #\\ 20 km historic union of France 0 10 miles and Brittany. /·A10 e Langeais presents two faces to the world. From FG8 deFoBrlêotis Blois \\#9 Chambord the town you see a forti- 0¸#\\ D112 fied castle, nearly window- ##]7 Domaine less, with machicolated Huisseau- National de sur-Cosson Chambord Forêt de #\\ \\# Bracieux D102 Tour-en- ¸0Russy D765 ¸0 0¸Onzain D952 ¸0 #D952 #\\8#\\ Sologne LINK \\# Cande-sur- YOUR #\\ #\\ Beuvron Cheverny TRIP Chaumont- 8 Essential France ¸0D952 sur-Loire From Chambord LOIR- either head north for ET-CHER Versailles and Paris, or so#\\uth for a longer trip taking Pontlevoy #\\ Contres in wine, the Alps and the Med. \\# a Atlantic to Med # 0¸Montrichard #\\ Monthou- Head south-east to 5#\\ D176 \\# sur-Cher La Rochelle (a little over Chenonceaux ·/A85 200km) to begin a leisurely Sauld r e meander from coast to her #\\ St-Aignan coast. Luzille 0¸D675 \\# H# #\\Montpoupon p189 \\# Montrésor \\# Valençay #\\ 187 Nouans-les- Fontaines e

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire walls rising forbiddingly Labyrinthe (Maze) and Claude. The interior decor from the drawbridge. the Jardin d’Ornement is mostly 19th century; But the sections facing (Ornamental Garden), the Salon de Biencourt the courtyard have large which depicts various was given historically windows, ornate dormers kinds of love (fickle, coherent furnishings and and decorative stonework passionate, tender and comprehensively restored designed for more refined tragic). But the highlight in 2016. The lovely living. is the 16th-century-style English-style gardens Jardin des Simples were restored and partly Behind the château is (Kitchen Garden), where replanted in 2015. a ruined stone keep con- cabbages, leeks and car- structed in 994 by warlord rots are laid out to create The Drive » Follow the D84 Foulques Nerra, France’s nine geometrical, colour- first great château builder. coordinated squares. east 6km through the tranquil It is the oldest such struc- Indre valley, then cross the ture in France. For bird’s-eye views river south into Saché, home across the gardens and to an attractive château and 5 p193 the nearby Loire and Balzac museum. From Saché Cher Rivers, climb to continue 26km east on the D17, The Drive » Backtrack south the top of the donjon 11km northeast on the D45 and (keep), the only medieval 9km east on the D976. Cross across the Loire River on the D57, remnant in this other- north over the Cher River and then follow the riverbank east wise Renaissance-style follow the D40 east 1.5km to 10km on the D16 to Villandry. château. Chenonceaux village and the Château de Chenonceau. 3 Villandry The Drive » Go southwest 4km TRIP HIGHLIGHT The six glorious land- on the D7, then turn south 7km on scaped gardens at the the D39 into Azay-le-Rideau. 5 Chenonceaux Château de Villandry (%02 47 50 02 09; www. TRIP HIGHLIGHT Spanning the languid chateauvillandry.com; 3 rue Cher River atop a su- Principale; chateau & gardens 4 Azay-le-Rideau premely graceful arched adult/child €10.50/6.50, bridge, the Château de gardens only €6.50/4.50, audio- Romantic, moat-ringed Chenonceau (%02 47 23 guides €4; h9am-btwn 5pm & Azay-le-Rideau (%02 47 90 07; www.chenonceau.com; 7pm year-round, château interior 45 42 04; www.azay-le-rideau. adult/child €13/10, with audio- closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec & early fr; adult/child €8.50/free, guide €17.50/14; h9am-7pm Jan-early Feb) are among audioguide €4.50; h9.30am- or later Apr-Sep, to 5pm or 6pm the finest in France, with 6pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Jul & Aug, Oct-Mar) is one of France’s over 6 hectares of cascad- 10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar) is one most elegant châteaux. ing flowers, ornamental of France’s absolute gems, It’s hard not to be moved vines, manicured lime wonderfully adorned with and exhilarated by the trees, razor-sharp box elegant turrets, delicate glorious setting, the for- hedges and tinkling foun- stonework and steep slate mal gardens, the magic tains. Try to visit when roofs, and surrounded by of the architecture and the gardens are bloom- a shady, landscaped park. the château’s fascinating ing, between April and Built in the 1500s, the history. The interior is October; midsummer is château’s most famous decorated with rare fur- most spectacular. feature is its Italian-style nishings and a fabulous loggia staircase overlook- art collection. Wandering the pebbled ing the central courtyard, walkways, you’ll see the decorated with the royal This extraordinary classical Jardin d’Eau salamanders and ermines complex is largely the (Water Garden), the of François I and Queen work of several remark- able women (hence its 188

nickname, Le Château des completed the château’s Grande Gallerie over the FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire Dames). The distinctive construction and added Cher. From 1940 to 1942 it arches and the eastern the yew-tree maze and served as an escape route formal garden were added the western rose garden. for refugees fleeing from by Diane de Poitiers, Chenonceau had an 18th- German-occupied France mistress of King Henri II. century heyday under (north of the Cher) to the Following Henri’s death, the aristocratic Madame Vichy-controlled south. Catherine de Médicis, the Dupin, who made it a cen- king’s scheming widow, tre of fashionable society; The Drive » Follow the D81 forced Diane (her second guests included Voltaire cousin) to exchange and Rousseau. north 13km into Amboise; 2km Chenonceau for the rather south of town, you’ll pass the less grand Château de The château’s pièce de Mini-Châteaux theme park, Chaumont. Catherine résistance is the 60m-long, whose intricate scale models chequerboard-floored of 44 Loire Valley châteaux are great fun for kids! DETOUR: SOUTH OF THE LOIRE RIVER Start: 4 Azay-le-Rideau Escape the crowds by detouring to four less-visited châteaux between Azay-le- Rideau and Chenonceaux. First stop: Loches, where Joan of Arc, fresh from her victory at Orléans in 1429, famously persuaded Charles VII to march to Reims and claim the French crown. The undisputed highlight here is the Cité Royale (%02 47 59 01 32; www.chateau-loches. fr; h24hr), a vast citadel that spans 500 years of French château architecture in a single site, from Foulques Nerra’s austere 10th-century keep to the Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles of the Logis Royal. To get here from Azay-le-Rideau, head 55km east and then southeast along the D751, A85 and D943. Next comes the quirky Château de Montrésor (%02 47 92 60 04; www. chateaudemontresor.fr; Montrésor; adult/child €8/4; h10am-7pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun mid-Nov–Mar), 19km east of Loches on the D760, still furnished much as it was over a century ago, when it belonged to Polish-born count, financier and railroad magnate Xavier Branicki. The eclectic decor includes a Cuban mahogany spiral staircase, a piano once played by Chopin and a treasury room filled with Turkish hookahs, plus other spoils from the 17th-century Battle of Vienna. Next, head 20km north on the D10 and D764 to the Château de Montpoupon (%02 47 94 21 15; www.chateau-loire-montpoupon.com; adult/child €9/5; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep, shorter hours winter), idyllically situated in rolling countryside. Opposite the castle, grab lunch at the wonderful Auberge de Montpoupon (%02 47 59 01 18; www.chateau-loire- montpoupon.com; Céré-la-Ronde; mains €11.50-18.50; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat Apr-Oct). Continue 12km north on the D764 to Château de Montrichard, another ruined 11th-century fortress constructed by Foulques Nerra. After visiting the château, picnic in the park by the Cher River or taste sparkling wines at Caves Monmousseau (%02 54 32 35 15; www.monmousseau.com; 71 route de Vierzon, Montrichard; h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar). From Montrichard, head 10km west on the D176 and D40 to rejoin the main route at Chenonceaux. 189

IBREAKSTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © VALERY ROKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP DANIEL ROBINSON, WRITER Travel doesn’t get more quintessentially French – or splendidly pampering – than this tour of the most famous Loire Valley châteaux, which brings together so many of the things I love most about France: supremely refined architecture, richly dramatic history, superb cuisine and delectable wines. My family especially enjoys the forbidding medieval fortresses of Langeais and Loches, which conjure up a long-lost world of knights, counts and court intrigue. Top: Le Close Lucé Left: Chapelle St-Hubert Right: Château Royal d’Amboise

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire TRIP HIGHLIGHT DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © 6 Amboise Perched on a rocky es- carpment above town, the Château Royal d’Amboise (%02 47 57 00 98; www.cha teau-amboise.com; place Michel Debré; adult/child €11.20/7.50, incl audioguide €15.20/10.50; h9am-6pm or 7.30pm Mar–mid-Nov, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.15pm mid-Nov–Feb) was a favoured retreat for all of France’s Valois and Bour- bon kings. The ramparts afford thrilling views of the town and river, and you can visit the fur- nished Logis (Lodge) and the Flamboyant Gothic Chapelle St-Hubert (1493), where Leonardo da Vinci’s presumed re- mains have been buried since 1863. Amboise’s other main sight is Le Clos Lucé (%02 47 57 00 73; www.vinci-closluce. com; 2 rue du Clos Lucé; adult/ child €15/10.50; h9am-7pm or 8pm Feb-Oct, 9am or 10am- 5pm or 6pm Nov-Jan; c), the grand manor house where Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519) took up resi- dence in 1516 and spent the final years of his life at the invitation of François I. Already 64 by the time he arrived, Da Vinci spent his time sketching, tinkering and dreaming up ingenious contraptions. Fascinating models of his many inventions are on display inside the home and around its lovely 7-hectare gardens. 5 4 p193 191

FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire The Drive » Follow D952 5 p193 Haddock’s ancestral The Drive » Cross the Loire home, Marlinspike Hall. northeast along the Loire’s northern bank, enjoying 35km of and head 16km southeast into 4 p193 beautiful river views en route to Cheverny via the D765 and D102. The Drive » Take the D102 Blois.The town of Chaumont-sur- Loire makes a pleasant stop for its 8 Cheverny 10km northeast into Bracieux, imposing château and gardens. then turn north on the D112 Perhaps the Loire’s most for the final 8km run through 7 Blois elegantly proportioned forested Domaine National de château, Cheverny (www. Chambord, the largest walled Seven French kings lived chateau-cheverny.fr; av du Châ- park in Europe. Catch your first in Château Royal de Blois teau; château & gardens adult/ dramatic glimpse of France’s (www.chateaudeblois.fr; place child €10.50/7.50; h9.15am- most famous château on the du Château; adult/child €10/5, 7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5.30pm right as you arrive in Chambord. audioguide €4/3; h9am-6pm Oct-Mar) represents the or 7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-noon zenith of French classical TRIP HIGHLIGHT & 1.30-5.30pm Nov-Mar), architecture: the perfect whose four grand wings blend of symmetry, 9 Chambord were built during four geometry and aesthetic distinct periods in French order. Inside are some of A crowning achievement architecture: Gothic (13th the most sumptuous and of French Renaissance century), Flamboyant elegantly furnished rooms architecture, Château de Gothic (1498–1501), early anywhere in the Loire Val- Chambord (www.chambord. Renaissance (1515–20) ley. Highlights include the org; adult/child €11/9, parking and classical (1630s). You formal Dining Room, with €4-6; h9am-5pm or 6pm; can easily spend half a panels depicting the story c) – with 440 rooms, day immersing yourself of Don Quixote; the King’s 365 fireplaces and 84 in the château’s dramatic Bedchamber, with ceiling staircases – is by far the and bloody history and ex- murals and tapestries largest, grandest and most traordinary architecture. illustrating stories from visited château in the Greek mythology; and a Loire Valley. Begun in 1519 In the Renaissance children’s playroom com- by François I (r 1515–47) wing, the most remarkable plete with toys from the as a weekend hunting feature is the spiral log- time of Napoléon III. lodge, it quickly grew into gia staircase, decorated one of the most ambitious with fierce salamanders Cheverny’s kennels and expensive architectur- and curly Fs, heraldic house pedigreed hunting al projects ever attempted symbols of François I. The dogs; feeding time, known by a French monarch. King’s Bedchamber was as Soupe des Chiens, the setting for one of the takes place most days Rising through the bloodiest episodes in the at 11.30am. Behind the centre of the structure, the château’s history. In 1588 château, the 18th-century world-famous double- Henri III had his arch- Orangerie, which shel- helix staircase – reputedly rival, Duke Henri I de tered priceless artworks, designed by Leonardo Guise, murdered by royal including the Mona Lisa, da Vinci – ascends to the bodyguards (the king is during WWII, is now a great lantern tower and said to have hidden be- warm-season tearoom. rooftop, where you can hind a tapestry while the marvel at a skyline of deed was done). Dramatic Tintin fans may recog- cupolas, domes, turrets, and graphic oil paintings nise the château’s façade chimneys and lightning illustrate these events next as the model for Captain rods and gaze out across door in the Council Room. the vast grounds. 192

Eating & Sleeping Chinon 1 entrées, two mains and two desserts. It’s small, so reserve ahead. 4 Hôtel de France Hotel €€ 4 Le Vieux Manoir B&B €€ (%02 47 93 33 91; www.bestwestern- (%02 47 30 41 27; www.le-vieux-manoir.com; 13 hoteldefrance-chinon.com; 47 place du Général rue Rabelais; d incl breakfast €150-220, f €330, de Gaulle, aka place de la Fontaine; d €99-139, cottages €260-310; hlate Mar-1 Nov; p aW) apt €175; aW) Run impeccably by the same Set in a lovely walled garden, this restored FRANCE 14 Châteaux of the Loire couple since 1979, this Best Western–affiliated mansion has oodles of old-time charm. The hotel, right in the centre of town, has 30 rooms six rooms and two cottages, decorated with arrayed around an inner courtyard. Tastefully antiques, get lots of natural light, and owners decorated in a contemporary style, many have Gloria and Bob (expat Americans who once ran views of the château – as does the magnificent, an award-winning Boston B&B) are generous flowery terrace on the roof. Offers enclosed with their knowledge of the area. bicycle parking. No lift. Blois 7 Langeais 2 5 L’Orangerie 5 Au Coin des Halles Bistro €€ du Château Gastronomy €€€ (%02 47 96 37 25; www.aucoindeshalles.com; 9 (%02 54 78 05 36; www.orangerie-du-chateau. rue Gambetta; lunch menus €16.50, other menus fr; 1 av Dr Jean Laigret; menus €38-84; €26-55; h12.15-2pm & 7.15-9pm Fri-Tue) Half hnoon-1.45pm & 7-9.15pm Tue-Sat; p) This a block from the entrance to the château, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves cuisine elegant eatery is mi-bistrot, mi-gastro (half- gastronomique inventive inspired by both French bistro, half-gastronomic restaurant), serving tradition and culinary ideas from faraway lands. delicious cuisine du marché (cuisine based on The wine list comes on a tablet computer. For what’s available fresh in the markets) grown and dessert try the speciality, soufflé. raised by local producers. Amboise 6 Cheverny 8 4 La Levraudière B&B € 5 La Fourchette French €€ (%02 54 79 L8e1v9r9a;uwdiwèwre.;ladlCeianvpcrtalioubndrCeiaeaprketfi.oafnrs;Ct1a€p8ti0on, Caption chemin de la (%06 11 78 16 98; 9 rue Malebranche; lunch/ 5-person ste €150; W) In a peaceful farmhouse dinner menus €17/30; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Sat, from 1892, amid 3.5 hectares of grassland, La 7-8.30pm Fri & Sat, plus Tue & Wed evenings Levraudière’s four rooms are comfortable and summer) Hidden away in a back alley off rue homey and come with king-size beds. Sonia Nationale, this is Amboise’s favourite address Maurice, the friendly owner, speaks English and for family-style French cooking – chef Christine is happy to supply local cycling maps. Situated will make you feel as though you’ve been invited 2.5km south of the Château de Cheverny. to her house for lunch. The menu has just two 193

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KNOW Climate CURRENCY Brittany & Normandy # Paris Euro (€) GO Apr–Sep # GO May & Jun LANGUAGE # French Alps GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing) French or Jun & Jul (hiking) VISAS French Riviera # Generally not required for GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct stays of up to 90 days (or at all for EU nationals); Warm to hot summers, mild winters Corsica # some nationalities need a Warm to hot summers, cold winters GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct Schengen visa. Mild year-round Mild summers, cold winters FUEL Alpine climate Petrol stations are common When to Go around main towns and High Season (Jul & Aug) larger towns. Unleaded »»Queues at big sights and on the road, especially August. costs around €1.28 per litre; »»Christmas, New Year and Easter equally busy. gazole (diesel) is usually at »»Late December to March is high season in Alpine ski resorts. least €0.15 cheaper. »»Book accommodation and tables in the best restaurants well RENTAL CARS in advance. ADA (www.ada.fr) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep) Auto Europe (www. »»Accommodation rates drop in southern France and other hot autoeurope.com) spots. Avis (www.avis.com) Europcar (www.europcar. »»Spring brings warm weather, flowers and local produce. com) »»The vendange (grape harvest) is reason to visit in autumn. Hertz (www.hertz.com) Low Season (Oct–Mar) »»Prices up to 50% lower than high season. IMPORTANT NUMBERS »»Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and Ambulance (SAMU) %15 shorter hours. Police %17 Fire %18 »»Hotels and restaurants in quieter rural regions (such as the Europe-wide emergency %112 Dordogne) are closed. 194

Daily Costs Hostels New-wave hostels are networks are compatible. Use a design-driven, lifestyle spaces French SIM card with a French Budget: less than €130 with single/double rooms as well number to make cheaper calls. »»Dorm bed: €18–30 as dorms. »»Double room in budget Internet Access Hotels Hotels embrace every hotel: €90 budget and taste. Refuges and Wi-fi is available at major gîtes d’étape (walkers’ lodges) airports, in most hotels, and »»Admission to many attractions for hikers can be found on trails at many cafes, restaurants, in mountainous areas. museums and tourist offices. first Sunday of month: free Price ranges refer to a double Money »»Lunch menus: less than €20 room in high season, with private bathroom, excluding breakfast: ATMs at every airport, most train Midrange: €130–220 stations and on every second »»Double room in a midrange € less than €90 street corner in towns and cities. €€ €90–190 Visa, MasterCard and Amex hotel: €90–190 €€€ more than €190 widely accepted. »»Lunch menus in gourmet Arriving in France Tipping restaurants: €20–40 Aéroport de Charles de By law, restaurant and bar prices Gaulle (Paris) are service compris (ie include a Top end: more than €220 15% service charge), so there’s »»Double room in a top-end Trains, buses and RER suburban no need to leave a pourboire (tip). trains run to the city centre every hotel: €190–350 15 to 30 minutes between 5am Useful Websites and 11pm; night buses kick in »»Top restaurant dinner: from 12.30am to 5.30am. Fares French Government are €9.75 by RER, €6 to €17.50 Tourist Office (www.france.fr) menu €65, à la carte €100–150 by bus and €8 by night bus. Flat Sights, activities, transport and fare of €50/55 for 30-minute taxi special-interest holidays. Eating journey to right-/left-bank central Lonely Planet (www. Paris (15% higher between 5pm lonelyplanet.com/france) Travel Restaurants & bistros and 10am, and Sundays). tips, accommodation, forum Range from traditional to and more. contemporary minimalist; urban Aéroport d’Orly (Paris) Mappy (www.mappy.fr) dining is international, rural Mapping and journey planning. dining staunchly French. Linked to central Paris by Orlyval rail then RER (€12.05) Opening Hours Brasseries Open from dawn or bus (€7.50 to €12.50) every until late, these casual eateries 15 minutes between 5am and Banks 9am–noon and 2–5pm are great for dining in between 11pm. Or T7 tram to Villejuif-Louis Monday to Friday or Tuesday to standard meal times. Aragon then metro to the centre Saturday (€3.60). The 25-minute journey Restaurants noon–2.30pm Cafes Ideal for breakfast and by taxi costs €35/30 to right-/ and 7–11pm six days a week light lunch; many morph into left-bank central Paris (15% more Cafes 7am–11pm bars after dark. from 5pm to 10am, and Sundays). Bars 7pm–1am Shops 10am–noon and 2–7pm Price ranges refer to the average Mobile Phones Monday to Saturday cost of a two-course meal: European and Australian phones € less than €20 work, but only American mobiles €€ €20–40 (cells) with 900 and 1800 MHz €€€ more than €40 Sleeping B&Bs Enchanting properties with maximum five rooms. 195

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language The sounds used in spoken French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by o or u followed by an almost inaudible nasal consonant sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our guides) and the deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides below as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine. BASICS Where’s …? oo ay … Où est …? Hello. Bonjour. bon·zhoor Goodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwa EATING & DRINKING Yes./No. Oui./Non. wee/non Excuse me. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwa What would you recommend? Qu’est-ce que vous kes·ker voo Sorry. Pardon. par·don conseillez? kon·say·yay Please. S’il vous plaît. seel voo play I’d like …, please. Thank you. Merci. mair·see Je voudrais …, zher voo·dray … s’il vous plaît. seel voo play You’re welcome. der ree·en I’m a vegetarian. De rien. Je suis végétarien/ zher swee vay·zhay·ta·ryun/ végétarienne. (m/f) vay·zhay·ta·ryen Do you speak English? Parlez-vous anglais? par·lay·voo ong·glay Please bring the bill. Apportez-moi a·por·tay·mwa I don’t understand. l’addition, la·dee·syon Je ne comprends pas. zher ner kom·pron pa s’il vous plaît. seel voo play How much is this? C’est combien? say kom·byun EMERGENCIES ACCOMMODATION Help! o skoor Au secours! zhe swee· Do you have any rooms available? I’m lost. pair·dew Est-ce que vous avez es·ker voo za·vay Je suis des chambres libres? day shom·brer lee·brer perdu/perdue. (m/f) How much is it per night/person? Quel est le prix kel ay ler pree par nuit/personne? par nwee/per·son Want More? DIRECTIONS For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Can you show me (on the map)? Planet’s French Phrasebook. You’ll Pouvez-vous m’indiquer poo·vay·voo mun·dee·kay find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or (sur la carte)? (sewr la kart) you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. 196

windscreen petrol pare-brise essence par·breez battery es·son batterie tyre ba·tree pneu engine pner moteur mo·ter headlight phare far Signs Does that include insurance? Est-ce que l’assurance es·ker la·sew·rons est comprise? ay kom·preez Cédez la Priorité Give Way Does that include mileage? No Entry Est-ce que le kilométrage es·ker ler kee·lo·may·trazh Sens Interdit est compris? ay kom·pree Entrée Entrance What’s the speed limit? Quelle est la vitesse kel ay la vee·tes Péage Toll maximale permise? mak·see·mal per·meez Sens Unique One Way Sortie Exit Is this the road to …? C’est la route pour …? say la root poor … I’m ill. zher swee ma·lad Can I park here? es·ker zher per Je suis malade. a·play la po·lees Est-ce que je peux sta·syo·nay ee·see Call the police! a·play un mayd·sun stationner ici? Appelez la police! Call a doctor! Where’s a service station? Appelez un médecin! Où est-ce qu’il y a une oo es·keel ya ewn station-service? sta·syon·ser·vees Please fill it up. Le plein, s’il vous plaît. ler plun seel voo play ON THE ROAD I’d like (20) litres. Je voudrais (vingt) zher voo·dray (vung) litres. lee·trer I’d like to Je voudrais zher voo·dray hire a/an ... louer … loo·way … Please check the oil/water. Contrôlez l’huile/l’eau, kon·tro·lay lweel/lo 4WD un quatre-quatre un kat·kat s’il vous plaît. seel voo play automatic/ une auto- ewn o·to· I need a mechanic. manual matique/ ma·teek/ manuel ma·nwel J’ai besoin d’un zhay ber·zwun dun mécanicien. may·ka·nee·syun motorbike une moto ewn mo·to The car/motorbike has broken down. La voiture/moto est la vwa·tewr/mo·to ay tombée en panne. tom·bay on pan How much is it daily/weekly? Quel est le tarif par kel ay ler ta·reef par I had an accident. jour/semaine? zhoor/ser·men J’ai eu un accident. zhay ew un ak·see·don 197

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Place de la Concorde YOUR LEGS PARIS If it’s Parisian vistas you’re after, the place de la Concorde makes a fine Start: Place de la Concorde start. From here you can see the Arc Finish: Panthéon de Triomphe, the Assemblée Nationale Distance: 4.5km (the lower house of parliament), the Duration: 3 hours Jardin des Tuileries and the Seine. Laid out in 1755, the square was where many Paris is one of the world’s most aristocrats lost their heads during the strollable cities, whether that means Revolution, including Louis XVI and window-shopping on the boulevards Marie Antoinette. The obelisk in the or getting lost among the lanes of centre originally stood in the Temple of Montmartre. This walk starts by the Ramses at Thebes (now Luxor). Seine, crosses to the Île de la Cité and finishes in the Latin Quarter, The Walk » Walk east through Jardin des Tuileries. with monuments and museums aplenty en route. Jardin des Tuileries Take this walk on Trip This 28-hectare landscaped garden (h7am-11pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours Sep-May; 8 c; mTuileries, Concorde) was laid out in 1664 by André Le Nôtre, who also created Versailles’ gardens. Filled with fountains, ponds and sculptures, the gardens are now part of the Banks of the Seine World Heritage Site, created by Unesco in 1991. The Walk » Walk across place du Carrousel onto the Cour Napoléon. Musée du Louvre Overlooking the Cour Napoléon is the mighty Louvre, with its controversial 21m-high glass Grande Pyramide, designed by IM Pei in 1989. Nearby is the Pyramide Inversée (Upside-Down Pyramid), which acts as a skylight for the underground Carrousel du Louvre shopping centre. The Walk » Continue southeast along riverside Quai du Louvre to the Pont Neuf metro station. Pont Neuf As you cross the Seine, you’ll walk over Paris’ oldest bridge – ironically known as the ‘New Bridge’, or Pont Neuf. Henri IV inaugurated the bridge in 1607 by crossing it on a white stallion. The Walk » Cross the Pont Neuf onto the Île de la Cité. Walk southeast along Quai des Horloges, and then turn right onto bd du Palais. 198