Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

GF15 /·A595 GF16 Cockermouth \\# Bassenthwaite ##]7 /·A66 /·A591 Mungrisdale \\# \\# #\\ Bassenthwaite ·/Troutbeck \\# ¸0A5086 Lake Penruddock A66 0¸Low \\# #\\ High Lorton #\\ Lorton Whinlatter Applethwaite Threlkeld \\# \\# Pooley Bridge Forest #\\ #\\ \\# #\\ 0¸Scales B5292 #÷ A5091 H# #Thackthwaite #\\ p254 Braithwaite #\\ #\\ #\\5 Keswick ·/Watermillock A592 #\\ Loweswater Portinscale Dockray #\\ Ullswater GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes #\\ \\# Little Town #\\ Howtown mK 0¸Lamplugh \\# B5289 Crummock \\# Lodore Water \\# Kirkland Grange #\\ Thirlspot #\\ \\# Croasdale Buttermere #1\\#3 Ullswater #\\ #\\ Watendlath Buttermere \\# Patterdale#\\ Thirlmere \\# Rosthwaite Ennerdale Water Borrowdale & 6 #\\ Buttermere #Ennerdale Seatoller A591 7# 7 /·# /·Forest #\\ Grasmere 4\\# Seathwaite CUMBRIA A592 KirPkasstsone NLaatkieonDailstPraicrkt #÷ c Ambleside Wasdale 8#\\ River Duddon Trout Beck #Nether #\\ 777Wasdale Rydal Wastwater Great Langdale \\#3 Kentmere Elterwater \\# #]#2 \\# \\# Hardknott Pass & \\#Gosforth 77# ·/ ¸0\\# Santon Bridge Boot #\\ Wrynose Pass Little #\\ Townend A593 \\# Troutbeck Bridge \\# 10 \\# Langdale B5286 Irton \\# Cockley #\\#9 Beck 777 ¸0Eskdale Hawkshead ]# Windermere # H## # /·\\# B5285 1#\\2 Near Sawrey 77 LlRavenglass Coniston 1]#1 #\\1 Bowness- A591 #\\ Seathwaite p258 #\\ on-Windermere ·/ GF /·Ulpha\\# Torver #\\ ÷#\\# Coniston 15 Windermere Water Grizedale Forest A592 ·/A595 A593 e# 0 10 km 0 5 miles \\# #\\ LINK#\\ #\\ #\\ YOUR\\# \\##\\ The Drive » Take the A593 g Britain’s Wild TRIP Side west towards Skelwith Bridge, and follow signs to Elterwater f The Best of Head north or south and Great Langdale. It’s a Britain along the A591 to visit wonderful 8-mile drive that gets more of the Britain’s wilder and wilder the deeper Start this circuit of glorious natural beauty you head into the valley. There’s Britain’s greatest hits spots. a large car park beside the Old by picking up the M6 Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, but it gets at Penrith between busy in summer; there’s usually Manchester and overflow parking available in a Edinburgh. nearby field. 249

PIXELBUCKET / 500PX ©3 Great Langdaleh9.30am-5.30pm), a tiny house where he lived GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic LakesThe Lake District has with his sister Dorothy, some truly stunning val- wife Mary and three leys, but Great Langdale children between 1798 to a recipe formulated definitely ranks near the and 1807. Guided tours in 1854. top. As you pass through explore the house, and the pretty village of next door the Words- 4 p259 Elterwater and its village worth Museum has lots The Drive » From Grasmere, green, the scenery gets of memorabilia relating really wild and empty. to the Romantic poets continue north on the A591. Fells stack up like domi- (including haunting life You’ll pass through the dramatic noes along the horizon, masks of John Keats and pass known as Dunmail Raise, looming over a patch- Wordsworth). where a great battle is said work of barns and fields. to have taken place between If you’re up for a hike, A little way south of the Saxons and the Celtic king then tackle the multi- Grasmere is the house Dunmail, who was slain near the peak circuit around the where Wordsworth spent pass. Stay on the road past the Langdale Pikes. Alterna- most of his adult life, tively, the more sedentary Rydal Mount (%015394- option is to just admire 33002; www.rydalmount. the view over a pint of ale from the cosy bar of co.uk; adult/child £7.50/3.50, the Old Dungeon Ghyll (%015394-37272; www.odg. grounds only £4.50; co.uk; Great Langdale; s £58, d £116-132; pW#), a classic h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, hikers’ haunt. 11am-4pm Wed-Mon Nov, Dec The Drive » Retrace the road & Feb). It’s still owned by the poet’s descendants, to Ambleside and head north and is a much grander to Grasmere on the A591 for affair than Dove Cottage: 5 miles. you can have a look around the library, visit TRIP HIGHLIGHT the poet’s attic study and wander around the gar- 4 Grasmere dens he designed. Below the house, Dora’s Field The lovely little village of is filled with daffodils Grasmere is inextricably in springtime; it was linked with the poet planted in memory of William Wordsworth, Wordsworth’s daughter, who made it his home in who died of tuberculosis. the late 18th century and never left unless he really If you have a sweet had to. Two of his houses tooth, you’ll also want are now open to the pub- to pick up a souvenir at lic. The most famous is Dove Cottage (%015394- Sarah Nelson’s Ginger- 35544; www.wordsworth.org. bread Shop (%015394- uk; adult/child £7.50/4.50; 35428; www.grasmereginger bread.co.uk; Church Cottage; h9.15am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm Sun), which still makes its gingerbread 250

lake of Thirlmere all the way to Grizedale Forest Woodland stream Keswick (13 miles). TOP TIP: 5 Keswick NATIONAL TRUST MEMBERSHIP Another of the Lake District’s classic market Being a National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) towns, Keswick is a place member comes in very handy in the Lake District. that revolves around the The Trust owns several key attractions, including Hill great outdoors. Sev- Top and the Beatrix Potter Gallery near Hawkshead, eral big fells lie on its Wordsworth House in Cockermouth and Fell Foot and doorstep, including the Wray Castle near Windermere. Best of all, you get imposing lump of Skid- to park for free at all the NT’s car parks – handy in daw and the dramatic celebrated beauty spots like Buttermere, Borrowdale, Wasdale, Gowbarrow Park and Tarn Hows. 251

ANDREW ROLAND / SHUTTERSTOCK © JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP OLIVER BERRY, WRITER For classic English scenery, nowhere quite compares to the Lake District. With its fells and waterfalls, valleys and villages, lakes and meadows, it’s like a postcard that’s come to life. It’s visited by some 13 million people every year, but it’s still easy to find peace and serenity – whether it’s rowing across a lake, cycling through the countryside or standing atop a fell. Pack spare memory cards – you’ll need them. Left: A classic ploughman’s lunch Above: Grasmere, home to poet William Wordsworth Right: Hiking around Tarn Hows

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakesridge of Blencathra, but it’s the lake of Derwent- JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © water that really draws the eye: it was said to be Beatrix Potter’s favourite, and she supposedly got the idea for Squirrel Nut- kin while watching red squirrels frolicking on its shores. The Keswick Launch (%017687-72263; www.keswick-launch.co.uk; round-the-lake adult/child/ family £10.25/5.15/24) trav- els out around the lake year-round. Back in town, don’t miss a visit to George Fisher (%017687-72178; www.georgefisher.co.uk; 2 Bor- rowdale Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun), the most famous outdoors shop in the Lake District: if you need a new pair of hiking boots, this is defi- nitely the place to come. 4 p259 The Drive » The drive into Borrowdale on the B5289 is a beauty, passing several pretty villages as it travels through the valley. You can’t get lost en route to Honister Pass (10 miles from Keswick) – there’s only one road to take; Buttermere lies on the other side of the pass. You’ll want to stop for numerous photos on the way. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 6 Borrowdale & Buttermere South of Keswick, the B5289 tracks along the eastern side of Der- wentwater and enters the bucolic valley of Borrowdale, a classic Lakeland canvas of fields, 253

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes fells, streams and endless and is backed by a string £7.20/3.60; h11am-5pm drystone walls. It’s worth of impressive fells. The Sat-Thu Mar-Oct) in Cock- stopping off to see the summit of Haystacks is a ermouth. Now owned geological oddity of the popular route: it was the by the National Trust, Bowder Stone, a huge favourite fell of Alfred it’s been redecorated boulder deposited by a Wainwright, who penned in period style accord- glacier, and for a quick the definitive seven- ing to details published hike up to the top of Cas- volume set of guidebooks in Wordsworth’s own tle Crag, which has the of the Lake District’s fells father’s accounts: you best views of the valley. between the 1950s and can wander round the ’70s. It’s a two- to three- drawing room, kitchen, Then it’s up and over hour return walk from pantry and garden, and the perilously steep Buttermere. see the rooms where lit- Honister Pass, where the tle Willie and his brother Lake District’s last work- The Drive » From Buttermere John slept. ing slate mine (%017687- 77230; www.honister-slate village, bear left on the B5289 Cockermouth is also signed towards Loweswater the home of local beer- -mine.co.uk; mine tour adult/ and Crummock Water, which maker Jennings Brewery continues into the Lorton Valley. (%01900-821011; www. child £12.50/7.50; htours At Low Lorton, stay on the jenningsbrewery.co.uk; adult/ B5289, which continues 4 miles child £9/4.50; hguided tours 10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm to Cockermouth. Total distance: 1.30pm Wed-Sat), where Mar-Oct) is still doing a 11 miles. you can take a guided thriving trade. You can tour and learn about take a guided tour down 7 Cockermouth the brewing process, into the mine or brave then sample a couple the heights along the Grasmere might be of ales such as Cocker stomach-upsetting Via Wordsworth central, but Hoop and the excellently Ferrata, and pick up slate completists will want to named Sneck Lifter. Just souvenirs in the shop. visit the poet’s childhood a snifter, mind – you’re home (NT; %01900- driving, after all. Nearby Buttermere 824805; Main St; adult/child has a sparkling twinset The Drive » Head west on the of lakes, Buttermere and Crummock Water, A66 and detour onto the A595, which tracks the coast all the DETOUR: way to Whitehaven. To reach WHINLATTER Wasdale (35 miles all up), turn FOREST PARK off at Gosforth, and then follow signs to Nether Wasdale and Start: 6 Buttermere (p253) Wasdale Head. It’s quite easy to Encompassing 1200 hectares of pine, larch and miss the turning, so keep your spruce, Whinlatter (www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter) is eyes peeled; sat-navs can be England’s only true mountain forest, rising sharply very unreliable here. to 790m about 5 miles from Keswick. The forest is a designated red squirrel reserve; you can check TRIP HIGHLIGHT out live video feeds from squirrel cams at the visitor centre. It’s also home to two exciting mountain-bike 8 Wasdale trails and a tree-top assault course. You can hire bikes next to the visitor centre. Wild Wasdale is argu- ably the most dramatic To get to Whinlatter Forest Park from Buttermere, valley in the national look out for the right turn onto the B5292 at Low park. Carving its way for Lorton, which climbs up to Whinlatter Pass. 5 miles from the coast, 254

it was gouged out by a DETOUR: GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes long-extinct glacier dur- ST BEES HEAD ing the last Ice Age; if you look closely, you can Start: 7 Cockermouth still see glacial marks on the scree-strewn slopes Cumbria’s coastline might not have the white above Wastwater. Most sandy beaches of Wales or the epic grandeur of the people come for the Scottish coast, but it has a bleak beauty all of its chance to reach the sum- own – not to mention a renowned seabird reserve at mit of Scafell Pike, Eng- St Bees Head (RSPB; [email protected]), where land’s highest point; it’s a you can spot species including fulmars, herring tough six- to seven-hour gulls, kittiwakes and razorbills. You can also look for slog, but the views from England’s only nesting black guillemots at nearby the top are quite literally Fleswick Bay. Just try and forget the fact that one of as good as they get (as- the UK’s largest nuclear reactors, Sellafield, is round suming the weather plays the corner. ball, of course). The village of St Bees is 5 miles south of White- Afterwards, reward haven, and the headland is signposted from there. yourself with a meal at the Wasdale Head Inn coast. Now known as the TRIP HIGHLIGHT (%019467-26229; www. wasdale.com; s £59, d Ravenglass & Eskdale a Hardknott Pass & £118-130, tr £177; pW), a Railway (%01229-717171; Wrynose Pass gloriously olde-worlde www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk; hostelry with lashings adult/child/family return At the eastern end of of mountain heritage: it £13.50/6.75/38; c), its Eskdale lie England’s was here that the sport miniature choo-choos two steepest road passes, of rock climbing was pio- are a beloved Lakeland Hardknott and Wrynose. neered in the mid-19th attraction. They chuff Reaching 30% gradient century. for 7 miles along the in some places, and with valley from the station at precious few passing The Drive » Retrace your Ravenglass to the final places on the narrow, terminus at Dalegarth. single-file road, they’re route to Gosforth, and take the Nearby, the Boot Inn absolutely not for the coast road (A595) south to (%019467-23224; www. faint-hearted or for Ravenglass and follow signs to thebooteskdale.co.uk; Boot; nervous drivers – but the Eskdale (22 miles). Alternatively, mains £10-18; p) makes a views are amazing, and there’s a shortcut into Eskdale pleasant stop for lunch. they’re doable if you take via Nether Wasdale and Santon things slow (although it’s Bridge, but it’s easy to get lost, The Drive » Since you’re probably best to leave the especially if you’re relying on caravan or motor home sat-nav; a good road map is driving, the most sensible idea is in the garage). Make sure really handy here. to park near Dalegarth Station, your car has plenty of ride the train to Ravenglass oil and water, as you’ll 9 Eskdale and back, and then set off for do much of the road in Hardknott Pass. There’s only 1st gear, and the strain The valley of Eskdale was one road east. Take it and get on the engine can be once a centre for mineral- ready for a hair-raising, white- taxing. Take it slow, and mining, and a miniature knuckle drive. It’s 6 (very steep!) steam train was built miles from Eskdale to Hardknott to carry ore down from Pass. the hillsides to the 255

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes take breaks – you need the counties of Cumber- hikers, but it’s perhaps to keep your focus on the land, Westmorland and best known for the world road ahead. Lancashire histori- speed record attempts cally met. Then it’s a slow made here by father and From Eskdale, the descent down through son Malcolm and Donald road ascends via a hairpins and corners to Campbell between the series of very sharp, the packhorse Slaters 1930s and 1960s. Though steep switchbacks to the Bridge and on into the they jointly broke many remains of Hardknott valley of Little Langdale. records, in 1967 Donald Fort, a Roman outpost Phew! You made it. was tragically killed where you can still see during an attempt in his the remains of some of The Drive » Once you reach jet-boat Bluebird; the lit- the walls. Soon after you tle Ruskin Museum (www. reach Hardknott Pass at Little Langdale, follow the road ruskinmuseum.com; adult/ 393m (1289ft). The vistas east until you reach the A593, child £6/3; h10am-5.30pm here are magnificent: the main road between Skelwith Easter–mid-Nov, 10.30am- you’ll be able to see all Bridge and Coniston. Turn right 3.30pm Wed-Sun mid-Nov– the way to the coast on and follow it for 5 miles. Easter) has the full story. a clear day. Next you’ll drop down into Cockley b Coniston Coniston Water is also Beck before continuing said to have been the the climb up to Wrynose South of Ambleside, the inspiration for Arthur Pass (393m/1289ft). Near old mining village of Ransome’s classic chil- the summit is a small Coniston is dominated dren’s tale, Swallows and car park containing the by its hulking fell, the Amazons. The best way Three Shire Stone, where Old Man of Coniston, an to explore is aboard the ever-popular objective for Steam Yacht Gondola (NT; %015394-63850; www. HILL TOP nationaltrust.org.uk/steam- yacht-gondola; Coniston Two miles from Hawkshead in the tiny village of Near Jetty; half lake adult/child Sawrey, the idyllic cottage at Hill Top (NT; %015394- return £11/5.50, full lake adult/ 36269; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top; adult/child £10/5, child/family £21.50/10/51), admission to garden & shop free; hhouse 10am-5.30pm a beautifully restored Mon-Thu, 10am-4.30pm Fri-Sun, garden 10am-5.45pm steam yacht built in 1859. Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri-Sun) is the most famous house It travels over the lake in the whole of the Lake District. It belonged to to the stately home of Beatrix Potter, and was used as inspiration for many Brantwood (%015394- of her tales: the house features directly in Samuel 41396; www.brantwood.org.uk; Whiskers, Tom Kitten, Pigling Bland and Jemima adult/child £7.50/free, gardens Puddleduck, and you will doubtless recognise the only £4.95/free; h10.30am- kitchen garden from Peter Rabbit. 5pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, to 4pm Wed-Sun mid-Nov–mid-Mar), Following her death in 1943, Beatrix bequeathed owned by the Victorian Hill Top (along with more than 4000 acres of land) to polymath, critic, painter the National Trust, with the proviso that the house be and inveterate collector left with her belongings and decor untouched. The John Ruskin. The house house formed the centrepiece for celebrations to is packed with furniture mark the author’s 150th birthday in 2016. and crafts, and the gar- dens are glorious. Entry is by timed ticket; it’s very, very popular, so try visiting in late afternoon or on weekdays to avoid 4 p259 the worst crowds. 256

JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © Ambleside Bar at the historic Drunken Duck pub The Drive » Heading north ably pretty confection of and botanical paintings whitewashed cottages, (she had a particular from Coniston, turn right onto winding lanes and slate fascination with fungi). the B5285 up Hawkshead roofs. It’s car-free, so you Hill. You’ll pass Tarn Hows and can wander at will: don’t Nearby, make a detour the Drunken Duck en route to miss the Beatrix Potter via the manmade lake Hawkshead, about 4 miles east. Gallery (NT; www.national- of Tarn Hows before trust.org.uk/beatrix-potter-gal- stopping for lunch at c Hawkshead the Lake District’s finest lery; Red Lion Sq; adult/child dining pub, the wonder- If you’re searching for fully named Drunken the perfect chocolate-box £6/3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu Duck. lakeland village, look no mid-Mar–Oct), which has a further – you’ve found it collection of the artist’s 5 p259 in Hawkshead, an improb- original watercolours 257

GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes The Drive » Head back to DETOUR: GRIZEDALE FOREST Ambleside and then follow the A591 back towards Start: c Hawkshead (p257) Windermere. Just before you reach it, take the turn-off onto Stretching for 6000 acres across the hilltops the A592 to Troutbeck Bridge, between Coniston Water and Esthwaite Water, which climbs up to the lofty Grizedale Forest (www.forestry.gov.uk/grizedale) is Kirkstone Pass – at 454m this a wonderful place for a wander. It’s criss-crossed is the highest mountain pass by cycling trails, and is also home to more than in Cumbria that’s open to road 40 outdoor sculptures created by artists over the traffic. It’s steep, but it’s a main last 30 years, including a xylophone and a man A-road so it’s well maintained. of the forest. There’s an online guide at www. grizedalesculpture.org. d Ullswater As you leave the Hawkshead car park, you’ll From the windlashed immediately see a brown sign for Grizedale, heading heights of Kirkstone right onto North Lonsdale Rd. Just follow the brown Pass, the A592 loops signs from here – it’s 3 miles’ drive from the village. down towards the last stop on this jaunt around As you skirt up the For an epic end to the the Lake District: stately lake’s western edge, it’s trip, strap on your hiking Ullswater, the national worth stopping for a boots and tackle the park’s second-largest lake walk around Gowbar- famous ridge climb via (after Windermere). It’s row Park, where there’s Striding Edge to the sum- an impressive sight, its a clattering waterfall to mit of Helvellyn, the Lake silvery surface framed by admire called Aira Force, District’s third-highest jagged fells and plied by and impressive displays mountain at 950m. You’ll the puttering Ullswater of daffodils in springtime need a head for heights, ‘Steamers’ (%017684- (Wordsworth dreamt up but you’ll feel a real sense 82229; www.ullswater-steam- his most famous poem of achievement: you’ve ers.co.uk; round-the-lake adult/ while walking nearby, just conquered perhaps child £13.90/6.95); you can the one which starts ‘I the finest hill walk in all also hire your own ves- wandered lonely as a of England. sels from the Glenridding cloud...’). Sailing Centre. 258

Eating & Sleeping Bowness-on-Windermere 1 Keswick 5 4 Cranleigh Hotel £££ 4 Howe Keld B&B ££ (%015394-43293; www.thecranleigh.com; (%017687-72417; www.howekeld.co.uk; 5-7 The Kendal Rd, Bowness-on-Windermere; d £119-189, Heads; s £60-85, d £112-130; pW) This gold- GREAT BRITAIN 18 Classic Lakes ste £305-515; pW) This guesthouse has standard B&B pulls out all the stops: goose-down gone all out on the decor, but strip away the duvets, slate-floored bathrooms, chic colours snazziness and it’s still just a B&B. It’s worth and locally made furniture. The best rooms have bumping up to the superior for the spacious views across Crow Park and the golf course, bathrooms or maybe blowing the budget on one and the breakfast is a pick-and-mix delight. Free of the two over-the-top suites (check out the parking is available on The Heads if there’s space. Sanctuary, complete with Bose stereo, glass bath and picture-fireplace). Coniston b Ambleside 2 4 Bank Ground Farm B&B ££ 5 Lake Road Kitchen Bistro £££ (%015394-41264; www.bankground.com; East of the Lake; d from £90; p) This lakeside (%015394-22012; www.lakeroadkitchen.co.uk; farmhouse has literary cachet: Arthur Ransome Lake Rd; 5-/8-course tasting menu £50/80; used it as the model for Holly Howe Farm in h6-9.30pm Wed-Sun) This much-lauded new Swallows and Amazons. Parts of the house date bistro has brought some dazzle to Ambleside’s back to the 15th century, so the rooms are snug. dining scene. Its Noma-trained head chef Some have sleigh beds, others exposed beams. James Cross explores the ‘food of the north’, The tearoom is a beauty too, and there are and his multicourse tasting menus are chock cottages for longer stays. Two-night minimum. full of locally sourced, seasonal and foraged ingredients, from shore-sourced seaweed to Hawkshead c forest-picked mushrooms. Presentation is impeccable, flavours are experimental, and 5 Drunken Duck Pub Food £££ the Scandi-inspired decor is just so. A meal not to miss. (%015394-36347; www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk; Barngates; lunch mains £7-12, dinner mains £22; Grasmere 4 hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; pW) Long one of the Lakes’ premier dining destinations, the Drunken 4 How Foot Lodge B&B ££ Duck blends historic pub and fine-dining restaurant. On a wooded crossroads on the top (%015394-35366; www.howfootlodge.co.uk; of Hawkshead Hill, it’s renowned for its luxurious Town End; d £76-85; p) Just a stroll from food and home-brewed ales, and the flagstones Dove Cottage, this stone house has six rooms and sporting prints conjure a convincing country finished in fawns and beiges; the nicest are the atmosphere. Book well ahead for dinner or take deluxe doubles, one with a sun terrace and the your chances at lunchtime. other with a private sitting room. Rates are an If you fancy staying, you’ll find the rooms absolute bargain considering the location. (£105 to £325) are just as fancy as the food. The pub’s tricky to find: drive along the B5286 from Hawkshead towards Ambleside and look out for the brown signs. 259

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a 1269 3269 4269 6269 9269 a269

GIMAS / SHUTTERSTOCK © # Royal Highlands 19& Cairngorms The heart of the Scottish Highlands features a feast of castles and mountains, wild rollercoaster roads, ancient Caledonian pine forest, and the chance to see Highland wildlife up close and personal. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 110 miles 51 miles 4–5 DAYS Blair Castle Loch Garten 149 MILES / Explore the home of Watch ospreys nesting 238KM the dukes of Atholl, amid ancient Scotland's leading Caledonian pine forest GREAT FOR... aristocratic family GJB #5# BEST TIME TO GO LlBraemar # #2 July and August mean ##9 9 miles good weather and all Balmoral Castle attractions are open. Km# Aberfeldy Visit Her Majesty the Queen's own Highland I ESSENTIAL PHOTO estate The gorgeous view of Schiehallion mountain from Queen’s View on Loch Tummel. K BEST FOR WILDLIFE Watching the nesting ospreys at Loch Garten. LBoaclmatoioranl CCaapsttiloenOdneetaoilfsthtoegrooyhaelrfeamily’s residences 261

19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms You’ll tick off the highlights of Royal Deeside and the central Highlands as you make this circuit around Cairngorms National Park. Queen Victoria kick- started the Scottish tourism industry when she purchased Balmoral Castle in the middle of the 19th century, and her descendants still holiday here. Later, heed the call of the great outdoors with a visit to an osprey nesting site, and a funicular ride to a mountain top. Loch Ness Grantown- Cabrach #\\ Bridge ·/ on-Spey \\# of Brown A9 ##\\ GF20 \\# Foyers Carrbridge \\# Broomhill \\#4 Tomintoul #\\ #5 Loch Garten Blairnamarrow#\\ \\# Invermoriston Monadhliath Mountains #Aviemore 6#\\ \\# Coylumbridge H# ¸0Highland Cairngorms Cock \\# #\\ Calnabaichin National Park Bridge A939 #Wildlife Park 7 Cairn Gorm Gairn (1245m) #3\\ Ballater Kingussie\\# Newtonmore \\# # #8 \\# Kincraig p264 Ben Macdui R R (1309m) Cairngorm Mountains #2 Balmoral Highland lL #Braemar \\#1 Sp ey Folk Museum Castle /·A86 R Lochnagar \\# Dalwhinnie Pattack (1155m) ·/ Grampian Mountains \\# Clova A9 Forfar \\# Spittal of \\# Glenshee 20 km Blair Atholl 10 miles #ELoricchht Ben Vrackie R (840m) Killichonan \\# Tay #\\9 \\# Cray RKainn\\#nlooccThuhmme\\#lFPoarreksQt ue#en's \\# Killiecrankie \\# Kirkmichael \\# Pitlochry Loch Rannoch Bridge View Bridge of # KmFortingall Balgie \\# \\# 1\\#0 Aberfeldy H# Ben LLyoochn Lawers Loch \\# Kenmore #\\ Blairgowrie p268 (1214m)R Tay \\# Dunkeld GF40 miles to 15‚ e# 0 0

1 Braemar There are Highland quarters! The main at- GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms games in many towns traction is learning about Braemar is a pretty little and villages throughout Highland estate manage- village with a grand the summer, but the best ment, rather than royal location on a broad plain known is the Braemar revelations. ringed by mountains Gathering (www.brae where the Dee valley margathering.org), which You can buy a booklet and Glen Clunie meet. takes place on the first that details several In winter this is one of Saturday in September. waymarked walks within the coldest places in the Balmoral Estate; the best country – temperatures 5 4 p269 is the climb to Prince as low as -29°C have been Albert’s Cairn. recorded. The Drive » The upper valley The Drive » Continue east Just north of the vil- of the River Dee stretches east lage, turreted Braemar from Braemar to Aboyne. Made on the A93 for another 8 miles Castle (www.braemarcastle. famous by its long association to Ballater. co.uk; adult/child £8/4; with the monarchy, the region is h10am-4pm daily Jul & Aug, often called Royal Deeside. Head 3 Ballater Wed-Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct; east from Braemar on the A93 p) dates from 1628 and for 9 miles to the car park at the The attractive village of served as a government entrance to Balmoral Castle. Ballater owes its 18th- garrison after the 1745 century origins to the Jacobite rebellion. It was TRIP HIGHLIGHT curative waters of nearby taken over by the local Pannanich Springs (now community in 2007, and 2 Balmoral Castle bottled commercially as now offers guided tours Deeside Natural Mineral of the historic castle Built for Queen Victoria Water), and its prosper- apartments. in 1855 as a private ity to nearby Balmoral residence for the royal Castle. LINK family, Balmoral Castle YOUR (%01339-742534; www. The village recently TRIP balmoralcastle.com; Crathie; received a double dose adult/child £11.50/5; h10am- of misfortune when the k Great Glen 5pm Apr-Jul, last admission Old Royal Station (its The stirring 4.30pm; p) kicked off the main tourist attraction) wilderness of the revival of the Scottish burned down in May northwest Highlands Baronial style of archi- 2015, followed by the awaits – it’s an hour and tecture that characterises worst flooding in living three-quarters west to so many of Scotland’s memory in January 2016. Glen Coe. 19th-century country Most businesses were houses. The admission open again by summer f The Best of fee includes an interest- 2016, but the the station Britain ing and well-thought-out may remain closed until audioguide, but the tour 2018. Head an hour and a half is very much an outdoor south to Edinburgh to one through garden and There are many pleas- begin our epic loop of grounds. ant walks in the sur- Britain’s greatest hits at rounding area. The steep its midpoint. As for the castle itself, woodland walk up Craig- only the ballroom, which endarroch (400m) takes displays a collection of just over one hour; ask Landseer paintings and at the tourist office for royal silver, is open to the more info. If you’d rather public. Don’t expect to cycle, you can hire bikes see the Queen’s private 263

GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms from CycleHighlands (637m) where there’s a small ry, with reconstructions (%01339-755864; www. skiing area (it’s usually the first of a crofter’s kitchen and cyclehighlands.com; The road in Scotland to be blocked a blacksmith’s forge. Pavilion, Victoria Rd; bicycle by snow when winter closes in). hire per half-day/day £12/18; There’s excellent h9am-6pm) and Bike 4 Tomintoul mountain biking at the Station (%01339-754004; BikeGlenlivet (www.glen- www.bikestationballater.co.uk; Tomintoul (tom-in-towel) livetestate.co.uk; trails free, Station Sq; bicycle hire per 3hr/ is a pretty, stone-built parking £3) trail centre, 4.5 day £12/18; h9am-6pm), village with a grassy, miles north of Tomintoul, which also offer guided tree-lined main square. It off the B9136 road. bike rides and advice on was built by the Duke of local trails. Gordon in 1775 on the old 5 4 p269 military road that leads 4 p269 over the Lecht pass from The Drive » Continue Corgarff, a route now fol- The Drive » The A939 strikes lowed by the A939. The northwest from Tomintoul on village’s recently refur- the A939 for 8.5 miles before north through the mountains bished and extended turning left on a minor road to from Ballater to Tomintoul (25 museum (%01807-580285; the village of Nethy Bridge. In miles). The section beyond The Square; h10am-5pm Apr- the village, turn left towards Cock Bridge is a magnificent Oct) celebrates local histo- Aviemore on the B970 then, rollercoaster of a road, much after 600m, turn left again on a loved by motorcyclists, minor road to Loch Garten (total summiting at the Lecht pass 17 miles). DETOUR: CAIRNGORM MOUNTAIN Start: 6 Aviemore Cairngorm Mountain (1245m), 10 miles southeast of Aviemore, is the sixth-highest summit in the UK and home to Scotland’s biggest ski area. A funicular railway ferries skiers almost to the top of the mountain, and continues to operate throughout the summer so that visitors can get a taste of the high mountain plateau. The Cairngorm Mountain Railway (%01479-861261; www.cairngormmountain.org; adult/child return £11.50/7.50; hevery 20min 10am-4pm May-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Apr; p) is the national park’s most popular attraction, whisking you to the edge of the Cairngorm plateau (altitude 1085m) in just eight minutes. The bottom station is at the Coire Cas car park at the end of Ski Rd; at the top is an exhibition, a shop (of course) and a restaurant. For environmental and safety reasons, you’re not allowed out of the top station in summer unless you book a guided walk or mountain-bike descent; check the website for details. Six miles east of Aviemore, on the road to Cairngorm Mountain, Loch Morlich is surrounded by some 8 sq miles of pine and spruce forest that make up the Glenmore Forest Park. Its attractions include a sandy beach (at the east end) and a watersports centre. Nearby, the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre (www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk; Glenmore; adult/child £14/8; hclosed early Jan–mid-Feb; c) runs guided walks to see and feed Britain’s only herd of reindeer, who are very tame and will even eat out of your hand. Walks take place at 11am daily (weather-dependent), plus another at 2.30pm from May to September, and a third at 3.30pm Monday to Friday in July and August. 264

TRIP HIGHLIGHT cruising the outdoor- Mar; p) features a drive- GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms equipment shops or through safari park as 5 Loch Garten recounting their latest well as animal enclosures adventures in the cafes that offer the chance to A car park on the shores and bars. view rarely seen native of Loch Garten, amid wildlife, such as Scottish beautiful open forest Strathspey Steam wildcats, capercaillies, of Scots pine, gives ac- Railway (%01479-810725; pine martens and red cess to the RSPB Loch Station Sq; return adult/child squirrels, as well as spe- Garten Osprey Centre £14.25/7.15; p) runs steam cies that once roamed the (%01479-831694; www.rspb. trains on a section of Scottish hills but have org.uk/lochgarten; Tulloch; restored line between long since disappeared, osprey hide adult/child £5/2; Aviemore and Broomhill, including wolves, lynx, hosprey hide 10am-6pm 10 miles to the north- wild boars, beavers and Apr-Aug). Ospreys nest in east, via Boat of Garten. European bison. Last a tall pine tree on the There are four or five entry is two hours before reserve – you can watch trains daily from June closing. from a hide as the birds to August, and a more feed their young, and limited service in April, The Drive » Continue see live CCTV feeds from May, September, October the nest. These rare and and December. southwest on the B9152 through beautiful birds – the Kingussie to the Highland Folk only bird of prey in the The Cairngorm Sled- Museum (6.5 miles). world that eats only Dog Centre (%07767- fish – migrate here each 270526; www.sled-dogs. 8 Highland Folk spring from Africa, arriv- co.uk; Ski Rd; c) will take Museum ing in April and leaving you on a 30-minute sled in August (check the tour of local forest trails The old Speyside towns website to see if they’re in the wake of a team of of Kingussie (kin-yew- in residence). huskies, or a three-hour see) and Newtonmore sit sled-dog safari. The sleds at the foot of the great The Drive » The minor road have wheels, so snow’s heather-clad humps not necessary. known as the Monadh- leads back to the B970, where liath Mountains. New- you turn left along the banks of 4 p269 tonmore is best known as the River Spey to Coylumbridge; the home of the excellent turn right here to reach The Drive » From Aviemore Highland Folk Museum Aviemore (11 miles). (%01540-673551; www.high drive south on the B99152, landfolk.museum; Kingussie 6 Aviemore which follows the valley of the Rd, Newtonmore; h10.30am- River Spey; after 8.5 miles, soon 5.30pm Apr-Aug, 11am-4.30pm The gateway to the after passing through the vilage Sep & Oct; p), an open-air Cairngorms, Aviemore of Kincraig, you’ll see a sign collection of historical may not be the prettiest on the right for the Highland buildings and artefacts town in Scotland – the Wildlife Park. revealing many aspects main attractions are in of Highland culture and the surrounding area – 7 Highland lifestyle. Laid out like but when bad weather Wildlife Park a farming township, puts the hills off-limits, it has a community of Aviemore fills up with The Highland Wildlife traditional thatch-roofed hikers, cyclists and Park (%01540-651270; www. cottages, a sawmill, a climbers (plus skiers and highlandwildlifepark.org; Kin- schoolhouse, a shepherd’s snowboarders in winter) craig; adult/child £15.40/11.55; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, to 4pm Nov- 265

©CRAIG EASTON / LONELY PLANET © MILOSZ MASLANKA / SHUTTERSTOCK © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP NEIL WILSON, WRITER Pretty much everything about this trip screams classic Scotland – romantic castles set amid forest- fringed hills (including the British royal family’s own holiday home); picturesque Highland villages beside salmon-filled rivers; hiking and mountain biking amid wild mountain scenery in the heart of Britain’s biggest national park; iconic Scottish wildllife experiences (think ospreys, reindeer, wildcats); there’s even a whisky distillery thrown in for good measure! Top: Wild red deer Left: A road through Cairngorms National Park Right: Loch Garten

GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngormsbothy (hut) and a rural post office. CHRIS PETTY/ 500PX © The Drive » Join the main A9 Inverness to Perth road and follow it south for 35 miles to Blair Atholl, passing through bleak mountain scenery and climbing to a high point of 460m at the Pass of Drumochter TRIP HIGHLIGHT 9 Blair Atholl The village of Blair Atholl dates only from the early 19th century, built by the Duke of Atholl, head of the Murray clan, whose seat – magnificent Blair Castle (%01796-481207; www.blair-castle.co.uk; adult/ child £10.70/6.40, family £28.90; h9.30am-5.30pm Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar; p c) – is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Scotland. Thirty rooms are open to the public and they present a wonderful picture of upper-class Highland life from the 16th century on. The original tower was built in 1269, but the castle underwent significant remodelling in the 18th and 19th centuries. Highlights include the 2nd-floor Drawing Room with its ornate Georgian plasterwork and Zoffany portrait of the 4th duke’s family, complete with a pet lemur (yes, you read that correctly) called Tommy; and the Tapes- try Room draped with 267

GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms 17th-century wall hang- DETOUR: ings created for Charles I. GLEN LYON The dining room is sump- tuous – check out the Start: a Aberfeldy 9-pint wine glasses – and the ballroom is a vast The ‘longest, loneliest and loveliest glen in Scotland’, oak-panelled chamber according to Sir Walter Scott, stretches for 32 hung with hundreds of unforgettable miles of rickety stone bridges, native stag antlers. woodland and heather-clad hills, becoming wilder and more uninhabited as it snakes its way west. The 4 p269 ancients believed it to be a gateway to Faerieland, The Drive » Follow the B8079 and even the most sceptical of visitors will be entranced by the valley’s magic. southeast out of Blair Atholl for a few miles, past the historic There are no villages in the glen – the majestic battle site of Killiecrankie, scenery is the main reason to be here – just a cluster and turn right on the B8019 of houses at Bridge of Balgie, where the Bridge of Strathtummel road. This Balgie Tearoom (%01887-866221; Bridge of Balgie; gloriously scenic road leads snacks £3-5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct; pW#), with a along Loch Tummel (stop for suntrap of a terrace overlooking the river, serves as photographs at Queen’s View) a hub for walkers, cyclists and motorists. The owner to Tummel Bridge; turn left here is a fount of knowledge about the glen, and her on the B846 over the hills to pistachio and almond cake is legendary. Aberfeldy (29 miles). There are several waymarked woodland walks a Aberfeldy beginning from a car park a short distance beyond Bridge of Balgie, and more challenging hill walks into Aberfeldy is the gateway the surrounding mountains (see www.walkhighlands. to Breadalbane (the co.uk/perthshire). historic region surround- ing Loch Tay), and a good From Abefeldy, the B846 leads to the pretty base: adventure sports, village Fortingall, famous for its ancient yew tree, angling, art and castles where a narrow minor road strikes west up the glen; all feature on the menu another steep and spectacular route from Loch Tay here. It’s a peaceful, crosses the hills to meet it at Bridge of Balgie. The pretty place on the banks road continues west as far as the dam on Loch Lyon, of the Tay, but if it’s passing a memorial to Robert Campbell (1808–94), moody lochs and glens a Canadian explorer and fur trader, who was born in that steal your heart, you the glen. may want to push further west into Glen Lyon. of town is Aberfeldy blending session. More Distillery (www.dewars.com; expensive tours allow You arrive in the town tour adult/child £9.50/4.50; you to try venerable by crossing the River Tay Aberfeldy single malts via the elegant Wade’s h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon- and others. Bridge, built in 1733 as part of the network of 4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm 4 p269 military roads designed Mon-Sat Nov-Mar; p), home to tame the Highlands. of the famous Dewar’s At the eastern end whisky; tours include an entertaining interactive 268

Eating & Sleeping Braemar 1 Aviemore 6 4 St Margarets B&B £ 4 Cairngorm Hotel Hotel ££ (%01339-741697; [email protected]; 13 (%01479-810233; www.cairngorm.com; School Rd; s/tw £34/56; W) Grab this place if Grampian Rd; s/d from £72/104; pW) Better you can, but there’s only one room: a twin with a known as ‘the Cairn’, this long-established hotel serious sunflower theme. The genuine warmth is set in the fine old granite building with the GREAT BRITAIN 19 Royal Highlands & Cairngorms in the welcome is delightful. It’s tucked behind pointy turret opposite the train station. It’s a the church on the south side of the A93 road. welcoming place with comfortable rooms and a 4 Craiglea B&B ££ determinedly Scottish atmosphere, with tartan (%01339-741641; www.craigleabraemar.com; carpets and stags’ antlers. There’s live music Hillside Dr; d/f from £76/105; pW) Craiglea is on weekends, so it can get a bit noisy – not for a homely B&B set in a pretty stone cottage with early-to-bedders. three en suite bedrooms. Vegetarian breakfasts are available and the owners can rent you a bike Blair Atholl 9 and give advice on local walks. 4 Atholl Arms Hotel Hotel ££ Ballater 3 (%01796-481205; www.athollarms.co.uk; r from £90; pW#) This hotel, near Blair Atholl train 4 Auld Kirk Hotel ££ station, is convenient for the castle, with rooms (%01339-755762; www.theauldkirk.com; of a high standard; book ahead on weekends. Braemar Rd; s/d from £80/115; pW#) Here’s The Bothy Bar here is the sibling pub of the something a little out of the ordinary – a seven- Moulin Hotel in Pitlochry, snug with booth bedroom hotel housed in a converted 19th- seating, an enormous fireplace and bucket- century church. The interior blends original loads of character; there’s no better place to be features with sleek modern decor – the pulpit when the rain is lashing down outside. now serves as the reception desk, while the breakfast room is bathed in light from leaded Aberfeldy a Gothic windows. 4 Tigh’n Eilean Guest House B&B ££ Tomintoul 4 (%01887-820109; www.tighneilean.com; Taybridge Dr; s/d from £48/78; pW#) 4 Argyle Guest House B&B ££ Everything about this property screams comfort. It’s a gorgeous place overlooking the (%01807-580766; www.argyletomintoul.co.uk; Tay, with individually designed rooms – one has a Jacuzzi, while another is set on its own in 7 Main St; d/f from £65/115; W#) Comfortable a cheery yellow summer house in the garden, giving you a bit of privacy. The garden itself is accommodation for walkers, and the best fabulous, with hammocks for lazing in, and the riverbank setting is delightful. porridge in the Cairngorms! 5 Clockhouse Restaurant Scottish ££ (The Square; mains £10-14; hnoon-2pm & 6-8pm) Serves light lunches and bistro dinners made with fresh Highland lamb, venison and salmon. 269

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1277 2277 3277 8277 9277

DUNCAN ANDISON / SHUTTERSTOCKV © # 20Great Glen This lake-and-mountain themed trip leads you through some of the Highlands’ scenic hotspots, and along the shores of world- famous Loch Ness – here be monsters! TRIP HIGHLIGHTS Km# Inverness 2–3 DAYS 147 MILES/235KM 81 miles Urquhart Castle GREAT FOR... Evocative ruined castle overlooking JB monster-haunted Loch Ness Glengarry ##6 BEST TIME TO GO Viewpoint # 32 miles April to see snow ##4 Glen Nevis on the mountains, Superb hiking in the October for autumn lL##1 shadow of Britain's colours in the forests. highest peak I ESSENTIAL Glen Coe PHOTO Awe-inspiring mountain scenery combines with Failing a shot of the compelling history Loch Ness monster, 0 miles crossing the wire bridge at Steall Meadows. K BEST FOR FAMILIES A Nessie-hunting cruise from Fort Augustus. LGolecnatNioenviCsaCprtoiosnsidngettahileswtoirgeobhriedrgee through Nevis Gorge 271

20 Great Glen TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Great Glen is a geological fault running in 1 Glen Coe an arrow-straight line across Scotland, filled by a series of lochs including Loch Ness. This trip Scotland’s most famous follows the A82 road along the glen (completed glen is also one of its in 1933 – a date that coincides with the first grandest. The A82 road sightings of the Loch Ness Monster!) and links leads over the Pass of two areas of outstanding natural beauty – Glen Glencoe and into the Coe to the south, and Glen Affric to the north. narrow upper glen. The southern side is dominated by three massive, brooding spurs, known as the Three Sisters, while the northern side is enclosed by the continuous steep wall of the knife-edged Aonach Eagach ridge, a classic mountaineering challenge. e# 0 20 km #Orrin North 0 10 miles #\\ Kessock Reservoir Loch Beauly \\#8 mK##]9 \\#Culloden Monar #\\ Lochcarron Farrar #\\ Inverness horn Struy ·/A82 Loch Ness Find # GFMulLlaocrhdoch Cannich \\# #\\ Dores 16 \\#7 Drumnadrochit FG H# # /·16 \\#Dornie Loch p276 Urquhart 6 A9 Affric # Castle Five Sisters Carrbridge\\# of Kintail Glen \\# Foyers c (1068m) Affric Aviemore\\# #\\ Invermoriston \\# R A887 Shiel A87 Bridge \\# Monadhliath Mountains /· ¸0Glenelg #\\ \\#Arnisdale Cluanie Loch Cluanie ·/ #R Ladhar #\\ Inn Glengarry Loch \\#5 Fort Augustus Kincraig GF19 Bheinn Viewpoint Oich #\\ (1019m) Kinloch Hourn Loch # A87 Kingussie R #\\ R Quoich Invergarry\\# Newtonmore#\\ Loch /·A82 Arkaig Loch Strathan #\\ Lochy Glen Roy Achnacarry \\# ·/A86 #\\# GlenFfoinrtnaCWnoirllpiaacmGh#\\ai]#r3lochyR\\#(B1e3BSn4#\\pr4Niedmeagv)nei#\\sRBorTiLydrogeciehg \\# Dalwhinnie #4 Glen /·A830 /·LochA9 Grampian Nevis Mountains Loch Ericht Shiel GF16 Strontian Corran#\\ #\\2 Kinlochleven Kinloch Killiecrankie #\\ Rannoch #\\ Loch #\\ GF19 Rannoch ·/ #A861 Ballachulish\\# Aberfeldy\\# /· # lLLoch #\\ Linnhe Glencoe A82 1 Glen Coe \\# Bridge of Gaur

Glencoe Visitor Centre brings a steady stream the Fort has carved out GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Glen (NTS; %01855-811307; www. of hikers through the a reputation as ‘Outdoor glencoe-nts.org.uk; adult/child village. It is also the Capital of the UK’ (www. £6.50/5; h9.30am-5.30pm starting point for walks outdoorcapital.co.uk). Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Thu-Sun up the glen of the River Nov-Easter; p) provides Leven, through pleasant The small but fasci- comprehensive informa- woods to the Grey Mare’s nating West Highland tion on the geological, Tail waterfall, and harder Museum (%01397-702169; environmental and cul- mountain hikes into the www.westhighlandmuseum. tural history of Glencoe, Mamores. org.uk; Cameron Sq; h10am- charts the development 5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 4pm of mountaineering in the Scotland’s first Via Mar & Nov-Dec, closed Jan & glen, and tells the story Ferrata (%01855-413200; Feb) is packed with all of the Glencoe Massacre www.glencoeactivities.com; manner of Highland in all its gory detail. per person/family £55/170) – memorabilia. Look out a 500m climbing route for the secret portrait of 5 4 p277 equipped with steel lad- Bonnie Prince Charlie – The Drive » From Glencoe ders, cables and bridges – after the Jacobite rebel- snakes through the crags lions, all things Highland village at the foot of the glen, around the Grey Mare’s were banned, including head east on the B863 for 7 Tail, allowing non- pictures of the exiled miles along the southern shore climbers to experience leader, and this tiny of Loch Leven to Kinlochleven. the thrill of climbing painting looks like noth- (you’ll need a head for ing more than a smear of 2 Kinlochleven heights, though!). paint until viewed in a cylindrical mirror. Kinlochleven is hemmed 5 p277 in by high mountains The Drive » Return west 5 4 p277 at the head of beauti- ful Loch Leven, where along the north side of Loch The Drive » At the the West Highland Way Leven, perhaps stopping for lunch at the excellent Lochleven roundabout on the northern LINK Seafood Cafe, then head north edge of Fort William, take the YOUR on the A82 to Fort William (22 minor road that runs into Glen TRIP miles). Nevis; it leads to a car park at the far end of the glen, 6.5 miles j Royal Highlands 3 Fort William away. & Cairngorms Basking on the shores TRIP HIGHLIGHT Get your fill of Scottish of Loch Linnhe amid splendour by beginning magnificent mountain 4 Glen Nevis with this tour of castles scenery, Fort William has and mountains before one of the most enviable Scenic Glen Nevis – used heading west to Glen Coe. settings in the whole of as a filming location Scotland. If it wasn’t for for Braveheart and the g Britain’s Wild the busy dual carriage- Harry Potter movies – Side way crammed between wraps around the base the less-than-attractive of Ben Nevis, Britain’s Explore more of Britain’s town centre and the loch, highest mountain. natural beauty spots by and one of the highest The Glen Nevis Visitor taking this trip in reverse rainfall records in the Centre (%01397-705922; from Inverness. country, it would be www.bennevisweather.co.uk; almost idyllic. Even so, h8.30am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 9am-3pm Nov-Mar; p) is 273

BOUDEWIJN SLUIJK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©situated 1.5 miles up13m by a ‘ladder’ of five the glen, and provides consecutive locks. It’s GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Gleninformation on hiking, fun to watch, and the weather forecasts, and neatly landscaped canal specific advice on climb- banks are a great place the film) and displays of ing Ben Nevis. to soak up the sun. The medieval items discov- Caledonian Canal Centre ered in the castle. The From the car park at (%01320-366493; Ardchattan five-storey tower house at the end of the road, there House, Canalside; h10am- the northern point is the is an excellent 1.5-mile 4pm), beside the lowest most impressive remain- walk through the spectac- lock, has information on ing fragment and offers ular Nevis Gorge to Steall the history of the canal. wonderful views across Meadows, a verdant valley the water. dominated by a 100m- Cruise Loch Ness high bridal-veil waterfall. (%01320-366277; www. The Drive » A short hop of 2 You can reach the foot of cruiselochness.com; adult/ the falls by crossing the child £14/8; hhourly 10am- miles leads to Drumnadrochit. river on a wobbly, three- 4pm Apr-Oct, 1 & 2pm only Nov- cable wire bridge – one Mar), at the jetty beside cable for your feet and one the canal bridge, oper- for each hand – a real test ates one-hour cruises on of balance! Loch Ness accompanied by the latest high-tech The Drive » Return down sonar equipment so you can keep an underwater Glen Nevis and head north on eye open for the Loch the A82. At Invergarry, turn left Ness monster. onto the A87 which climbs high above Loch Garry; stop at the The Drive » It’s a famous Glengarry Viewpoint (layby on left). By a quirk of straightforward but scenic perspective, the lochs to the 17-mile drive along the shores of west appear to form the map Loch Ness to Urquhart Castle. outline of Scotland. Return to the A87 and continue to Fort TRIP HIGHLIGHT Augustus (44 miles). 6 Urquhart Castle 5 Fort Augustus Commanding a superb Fort Augustus, at the location with outstand- junction of four old mili- ing views over Loch tary roads, was originally Ness, Urquhart Castle a government garrison (HS; %01456-450551; adult/ and the headquarters of child £8.50/5.10; h9.30am- General George Wade’s 6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct, to road-building operations 4.30pm Nov-Mar; p) is a in the early 18th century. popular Nessie-hunting Today it’s a neat and hot spot. A huge visitor picturesque little place centre (most of which is bisected by the Caledo- beneath ground level) nian Canal. includes a video theatre (with a dramatic ‘reveal’ Boats using the canal of the castle at the end of are raised and lowered 274

Loch Ness Fort Augustus Abbey 7 Drumnadrochit form of a cardboard cut- for yourself. Exhibits out at Drumnadrochit’s include the original Deep, dark and narrow, monster exhibitions. equipment – sonar Loch Ness stretches for survey vessels, miniature 23 miles between Inver- The Loch Ness Centre submarines, cameras ness and Fort Augustus. (%01456-450573; www. and sediment coring Its bitterly cold waters tools – used in various have been extensively ex- lochness.com; adult/child monster hunts, as well plored in search of Nes- as original photographs sie, the elusive Loch Ness £7.95/4.95; h9.30am-6pm Jul and film footage of monster, but most visi- sightings. You’ll find out tors see her only in the & Aug, to 5pm Easter-Jun, Sep & about hoaxes and optical Oct, 10am-3.30pm Nov-Easter; p c) adopts a scientific approach that allows you to weigh the evidence 275

GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Glen DETOUR: magnificent centuries-old GLEN AFFRIC sycamore tree. Start: 7 Drumnadrochit (p275) Corner on the Square (p277) makes a good Glen Affric (www.glenaffric.org), one of the place to break your most beautiful glens in Scotland, extends deep journey. into the hills beyond Cannich, halfway between Drumnadrochit and Beauly. The upper reaches of 5 p277 the glen, now designated as Glen Affric Nature The Drive » Drive east on the Reserve, is a scenic wonderland of shimmering lochs, rugged mountains and native Scots pine A862 for 12 miles to Inverness. forest, home to pine martens, wildcats, otters, red squirrels and golden eagles. 9 Inverness A narrow, dead-end road leads southwest from Inverness has a great loca- Cannich; about 4 miles along is Dog Falls, a scenic tion astride the River Ness spot where the River Affric squeezes through a at the northern end of the narrow, rocky gorge. A circular walking trail (red Great Glen. In summer waymarks) leads from Dog Falls car park to a it overflows with visitors footbridge below the falls and back on the far side of intent on monster hunting the river (2 miles, allow one hour). at nearby Loch Ness, but it’s worth a visit in its own The road continues beyond Dog Falls to a parking right for a stroll along the area and picnic site at the eastern end of Loch picturesque River Ness, a Affric, where there are several short walks along the cruise on Loch Ness, and river and the loch shore. The circuit of Loch Affric a meal in one of the city’s (10 miles, allow five hours walking, two hours by excellent restaurants. mountain bike) follows good paths right around the loch and takes you deep into the heart of some very The main attraction wild scenery. in Inverness is a leisurely stroll along the river to illusions, as well as 8 Beauly the Ness Islands. Planted learning a lot about the with mature Scots pine, ecology of Loch Ness – is Mary, Queen of Scots is beech and sycamore, and there enough food in said to have given this linked to the river banks the loch to support even village its name in 1564 and each other by elegant one ‘monster’, let alone a when she visited, exclaim- Victorian footbridges, the breeding population? ing in French: ‘Quel beau islands make an appealing lieu!’ (What a beautiful spot. They’re a 20-minute The Drive » Head west on the place!). Founded in 1230, walk south of the castle – the red-sandstone Beauty head upstream on either A831 which leads to the village Priory is now an impres- side of the river (the start of Cannich – jumping-off point sive ruin, haunted by the of the Great Glen Way), for the Glen Affric detour – cries of rooks nesting in a and return on the oppo- before turning north along lovely site bank. Strathglass to reach Beauly (30 miles). 4 p277 276

Eating & Sleeping Glen Coe 1 century villa set in its own landscaped grounds, the Grange is crammed with antiques and fitted 4 Clachaig Inn Hotel ££ with log fires, chaise lounges and Victorian roll-top baths. The Turret Room, with its window (%01855-811252; www.clachaig.com; s/d seat in the turret overlooking Loch Linnhe, is our favourite. It’s 500m southwest of the town £53/106; pW) The Clachaig, 2 miles east centre. No children. of Glencoe village, has long been a favourite haunt of hill walkers and climbers. As well as 5 Lime Tree Scottish ££ GREAT BRITAIN 20 Great Glen comfortable en suite accommodation, there’s a (%01397-701806; www.limetreefortwilliam. smart, modern lounge bar with snug booths and co.uk; Achintore Rd; mains £16-20; h6.30- high refectory tables, mountaineering photos 9.30pm; pW) Fort William is not over- and bric-a-brac, and climbing magazines to leaf endowed with great places to eat, but the through. restaurant at this small hotel and art gallery 5 Glencoe Café Cafe £ has put the UK’s Outdoor Capital on the (%01855-811168; www.glencoecafe.co.uk; gastronomic map. The chef turns out delicious Glencoe village; mains £4-8; h10am-4pm dishes built around fresh Scottish produce, daily, to 5pm May-Sep, closed Nov; pW) ranging from Loch Fyne oysters to Loch Awe This friendly cafe is the social hub of Glencoe trout and Ardnamurchan venison. village, serving breakfast fry-ups till 11.30am (including vegetarian versions), light lunches Beauly 8 based around local produce (think Cullen skink, smoked salmon quiche, venison burgers), and 5 Corner on the Square Cafe £ the best cappuccino in the glen. (%01463-783000; www.corneronthesquare. co.uk; 1 High St; mains £7-13; h8.30am-5.30pm Kinlochleven 2 Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun) 5 Lochleven Seafood Cafe Seafood ££ Beauly’s best lunch spot is this superb little (%01855-821048; www.lochlevenseafoodcafe. delicatessen and cafe that serves breakfast co.uk; mains £11-23, whole lobster £40; hmeals noon-3pm & 6-9pm, coffee & cake 10am-noon & (till 11.30am), daily lunch specials (11.30am to 3-5pm mid-Mar–Oct; p c) This outstanding place serves superb shellfish freshly plucked 4.30pm) and excellent coffee. from live tanks – oysters on the half shell, razor clams, scallops, lobster and crab – plus a daily Inverness 9 fish special and some non-seafood dishes. For warm days, there’s an outdoor terrace with a 4 Heathmount Boutique Hotel ££ view across the loch to the Pap of Glencoe, a distinctive conical mountain. Hotel (%01463-235877; www.heathmounthotel. com; Kingsmills Rd; s/d from £75/105; pW) Small and friendly, the Heathmount combines a popular local bar and restaurant with eight Fort William 3 designer hotel rooms, each one different, ranging from a boldly coloured family room in 4 Grange B&B £££ purple and gold to a slinky black velvet four- poster double. Five minutes’ walk east of the (%01397-705516; www.grangefortwilliam.com; city centre. Grange Rd; d £145; pW) An exceptional 19th- 277

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a 1289 2289 4289 7289 8289 9289 a289

BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © West Wales: Swansea to 21St Davids This route links two distinctly Welsh cities – one large and one beyond tiny – by way of Wales’ two most famously beautiful stretches of coast. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 4 DAYS 125 MILES / 125 miles 201KM St Davids Historic micro-city GREAT FOR… set in an ancient landscape BG mK#10## # Carmarthen BEST TIME TO GO St Davids # Haverfordwest June, July and August offer the # ###7 Tenby Llanelli# lL best beach weather; although there’s no Pembroke Swansea assurances of sun. 86 miles # I ESSENTIAL Tenby PHOTO Postcard-perfect #Rhossili 4# beach town with a The view of Three medieval core Rhossili Cliffs Bay from Miles of golden sand Pennard Castle. backed by steep- sloped downs K BEST FOR FAMILIES 20 miles Splashing about on PLoecmabtiroonkeCsahpitrieonCodaestatilEsletoguggoShtearcek Rocks Ù# the beach at Tenby. 279

21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids The broad sandy arc of Swansea Bay is only a teaser for what is to come. Once you escape the city sprawl, the wild beauty of the Welsh coast immediately begins to assert itself. Waves crash against sheer cliffs painted from a rapidly changing palate of grey, purple and inky black. In between are some of Britain’s very best beaches: glorious sandy stretches and tiny remote coves alike. \\# 44Cardigan #] Moylgrove#\\ ¸0A487 44 ¸0Goodwick#\\ #\\ Dinas Nevern Henllan#\\ \\# #\\Cross #\\ Cenarth A478 Llandysul #\\ New#\\port 0¸ 4¸04Porthgain Trefin #\\ A487 Fishguard #\\ Bwlch #\\ Crymach B4313 Gwynt #\\ \\# Abereiddy #\\ Pembrokeshire 4Porthmelgan PEAM40BROKESHIRLRleEysse-ryv-ofrirbnNCaPtoaiaorskntal Km # # ¸0St Clarbeston Davids #\\10 \\#9 Solva St Non's Ramsey 4440¸ 0¸ #Island Bay Newgale #\\ \\# Road #\\ Carmarthen A487 6]# Canaston Whitland St Brides Bridge \\# Bay A40 \\# Haverfordwest \\# St Clears 440¸ 0¸ ¸0 H#SkomerBroad Haven #\\ \\# Island Martin's B4327 A4076 PCeomasbtrNokaetisohnirael Narberth A477 4444H# ¸0# 0¸ 440¸# 44444444#44ATLAN 44444 444OCEAHaven Marloes \\#Johnston Park p282 #\\ Laugharne Kidwelly #\\5 TIC \\#DaS\\#ltHeAe#\\naFdnrAe'ssWnLhgeiwHMnlseHat#\\neiatlaeefdyvorerPpBdn2eoRS8m\\#sto6ahcbcDkerksrooskBctS4oekt3n#\\1G#\\D9\\#Noa#\\v#\\8eS\\#u\\#ayBgtnlaPlra'eBsocendakaAddmr4pdaa7Bo7CbuHfalueraya#\\norv#\\dekelwMnee anor\\#bA4i\\#e77\\#8rSTa\\#ueCInAsanldlmabdenyerrdoyCstfahoromBtaa#\\yrPtehenndine Bur#\\ry N Port Llanmadoc \\# Llangennith #\\ 44Head 44#Rhossili #4\\ \\# e# 0 20 km CBhrainstnoell 0 10 miles 44

swanseaindoormarket.co.uk; swan.ac.uk; Mumbles Rd, Sketty; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat) 1 Swansea Oxford St; h8am-5.30pm at Swansea University. GREAT BRITAIN21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids Mon-Sat), then dive into Although it’s not the the whizz-bang National 4 p289 most immediately at- tractive place, Wales’ Waterfront Museum The Drive » Broad second biggest city has (%0300 111 2333; www.muse its own workaday charm Oystermouth Rd traces the edge and an enviable setting umwales.ac.uk; South Dock Ma- of Swansea Bay, changing its on 5-mile-long, sandy, name to Mumbles Rd halfway Swansea Bay. An active rina, Oystermouth Rd; h10am- along. It’s only 4 miles from bar scene is enthusiasti- 5pm) and the charmingly central Swansea to the heart of cally supported by a large old-fashioned Swansea the Mumbles strip. student population, while Museum (%01792-653763; a new brace of afford- www.swanseamuseum.co.uk; 2 The Mumbles able ethnic eateries has improved the city’s once Victoria Rd; h10am-5pm Swansea’s swanky seaside drab dining options no Tue-Sun). Fans of Welsh suburb sprawls along the end. poet Dylan Thomas western curve of Swansea can tour his birthplace Bay and terminates in Fuel up on Welsh cakes (%01792-472555; www. the pair of rounded hills hot off the griddle at which may have gifted Swansea Market (www. dylanthomasbirthplace.com; the area its unusual name (from the French Les 5 Cwmdonkin Dr, Uplands; Mamelles – ‘the breasts’). Oystermouth Castle adult/child £8/6; htours (%01792-635478; www.swan- 11am, 1pm & 3pm), explore sea.gov.uk/oystermouthcastle; his legacy at the Dylan Castle Ave; adult/child £3/1.50; h11am-5pm Easter-Sep) is Thomas Centre (%01792- well worth a visit – a Norman fortress standing 463980; www.dylanthomas. guard over the fashion- able Newton Rd bar and #\\ Lampeter com; Somerset Pl; h10am- shopping strip. 4.30pm), catch a show at the Dylan Thomas Pick up an ice cream \\# Llanybydder #\\Theatre (%01792-473238; at Joe’s (%01792-368212; www.joes-icecream.com; 526 www.dylanthomastheatre.org. uk; Gloucester Pl), where he once trod the boards, and visit some of the many pubs he famously Llangadog \\# frequented. If you’ve got \\# Llandeilo \\# an interest in antiquities, seek out the fascinating Egypt Centre (www.egypt. Ammanford \\# LINK YOUR #\\ TRIP FG38 miles to 15 h The Historic South f The Best of Britain Pontarddulais Sample some The Welsh coast heritage and culture before tour is an obvious side-trip GF#\\ 70 miles to 17 hitting the wild coast: from from our grand tour of the #\\ Ll Oxford, it’s two and a half best sights of Britain – it’s ‚ hours west on the M4 to an hour’s drive between ]# Swansea. Swansea and Cardiff. Llanelli #\\ #Swansea 281 ^#1 Reynoldston ##]2 Mumbles 440¸\\# #A4118 \\#3 lL Parkmill #\\ Port 44Eynon

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids Mumbles Rd; h10.30am- at the village of Murton, a sharp zoo and a puppet theatre. 5.30pm), a Swansea right-hand turn leads to the Nearby Parc-le-Breos institution since it was B4436 and on to the A4118, the (Parkmill) contains the founded by an Italian main Gower road. remains of a 5500-year- immigrant in 1922, and old burial chamber. take a stroll along the 3 Parkmill waterside promenade However, the real rea- to the Victorian pier The spectacular coastal son to stop in Parkmill is (%01792-365225; www. landscape of the Gower to take a stroll to Three mumbles-pier.co.uk; Mumbles Peninsula was recognised Cliffs Bay. Recognised Rd). There’s a pretty little by officialdom when it as one of Britain’s most sandy beach tucked just was declared the UK’s beautiful beaches, Three beneath it. If you’re peck- first ‘Area of Outstanding Cliffs has a memorable ish there are some good Natural Beauty’ in 1956. setting, with a ruined cafes and restaurants 13th-century castle above spread along the water- In the village of Park- and a triple-pointed front, and plenty of pubs mill, historic mill build- rock formation fram- and bars too. ings have been converted ing a natural arch at its into the Gower Heritage eastern end. 4 p289 Centre (%01792-371206; www.gowerheritagecentre. The Drive » From Parkmill, The Drive » From the co.uk; Parkmill; adult/child £6.80/5.80; h10am-5.30pm; continue west on the A4118, Mumbles it’s 6 miles to Parkmill c). Despite its worthy- following the signs to Rhossili. on the Gower Peninsula. Head sounding name, it’s a Eventually the road turns left uphill on Newton Rd, following great place to take kids, towards the village of Scurlage the Gower signs. Eventually the incorporating a petting and the Rhossili turn-off. All up houses give way to fields and, it’s a distance of 10 miles along good roads, but it’s quite likely DETOUR: LAUGHARNE Start: 6 Carmarthen (p285) While shooting down the highway between Carmarthen and Tenby, it’s worth considering taking a left at St Clears to visit the small town of Laugharne (pronounced ‘larn’) on the Taf estuary. Perched picturesquely above the reed-lined shore, Laugharne Castle (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales; Wogan St; adult/child £3.80/2.85; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) is a hefty 13th-century fortress which was converted into a mansion in the 16th century. Swansea may have been Dylan Thomas’ birthplace but Laugharne is where he chose to live out his final years, providing the inspiration for his classic play for voices Under Milk Wood. Many fans make the pilgrimage here to visit the boathouse (%01994-427420; www.dylanthomasboathouse.com; Dylan’s Walk; adult/child £4.20/2; h10am-5pm May-Oct, 10.30am-3pm Nov-Apr) where he lived, the shed where he wrote and his final resting place in the graveyard of St Martin’s Church. Also worth a look is cosy Brown’s Hotel (%01994-427688; www.browns-hotel.co.uk; King St; pizza £8-10; h11am-11pm), one of his favourite watering holes. Laugharne is situated 4 miles off the highway and you’re best to allocate at least a couple of hours to explore it properly. Although you can continue southwest from here on narrow roads, you’re better off backtracking to the A477 to get to Tenby. 282

JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES © St Davids St Davids Cathedral you’ll be stuck behind a slow- Head, a dragon-shaped lords were given author- moving campervan or tractor at promontory which turns ity and a large degree of some point along the way. into an island at high autonomy to subjugate tide and is home to seals the Welsh in the south TRIP HIGHLIGHT and a variety of sea birds. and along the English It’s safe to explore it on border. The cute little 4 Rhossili foot for 2½ hours either Carmarthenshire town of side of low tide, but keep Kidwelly has a particular- It can be dangerous for an eye on the time and ly well-preserved example. swimmers but the three mind you don’t get cut off miles of surf-battered by the incoming tide. Originally erected in golden sands of Rhossili 1106, only 40 years after Bay make it the Gower 5 p289 the Norman invasion of Peninsula’s most dramatic The Drive » It’s only 31 miles England, Kidwelly Castle and spectacular beach. (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales; Surfers tend to congregate from Rhossili to Kidwelly, but Castle Rd, Kidwelly; adult/child at the village of Llangen- allow an hour as the narrow £4/3; h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, nith near the north end lanes leading out from the 10am-4pm Nov-Feb) got its of the beach, but Rhossili Gower Peninsula will slow you current configuration of village to the south makes down. The first part of the imposing stone walls in for a better casual stop. journey zigzags along tiny lanes the 13th century. Wander There’s a National Trust to the peninsula’s northern around and explore its visitor centre (%01792- edge. Before and after motoring remaining towers and 390707; www.nationaltrust.org. through the scraggly outskirts battlements, or just stop uk/gower; Coastguard Cottages, of Llanelli, it’s a pleasantly rural by to take a photo of the Rhossili; h10.30am-4pm) drive. grey walls looming above here, and the excellent the peaceful river far Bay Bistro & Coffee House 5 Kidwelly below. (p289), if you’re after a meal or a snack. Castles are a dime a The Drive » From Kidwelly, dozen in this part of This end of the beach Wales – a legacy of a time take the A484 north for 10 is abutted by Worms when Norman ‘Marcher’ miles through the green fields of Carmarthenshire. Eventually 283

BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP PETER DRAGICEVICH, WRITER As well as traversing two of Wales’ most acclaimed beauty spots – the Gower Peninsula and the Pembrokeshire Coast – this journey offers the perfect introduction to contemporary Welsh life. You’ll get a taste of a large post-industrial city, visit tiny fishing villages, travel through fertile farmland and wash up in St Davids – a place as close to the Welsh soul as any could claim to be. Top: Rhossili Bay, Gower Peninsula Left: Colourful buildings in Solva Right: Picturesque Tenby Harbour

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davidsyou’ll see Carmarthen in the distance, straddling a hill above BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © the River Tywi. 6 Carmarthen Although it has ancient provenance, there’s not an awful lot to see in Carmarthenshire’s county town. Still, it’s worth stopping to stretch your legs with a stroll through its historic centre. Call into Castle House (Nott Sq; h9.30am- 4.30pm Mon-Sat) to exam- ine the few sections that remain of a once mighty fortress. Carmarthen Market (www.carmarthen shiremarkets.co.uk; Market Way; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) has existed since Roman times. It’s a good place to sample the local specialty, Carmarthen ham – an air-dried meat that’s very similar to pro- sciutto. Carmarthenshire is a largely agricultural county, and the market remains an important hub for local producers. The Drive » Twenty-six miles of verdant farmland separate Carmarthen from Tenby. Take the A40 to St Clears, where you can either detour to Laugharne or branch off on the A477 and enter Pembrokeshire. Past Kilgetty, turn left onto the A478, which leads directly to Tenby. TRIP HIGHLIGHT 7 Tenby Sandy, family-friendly beaches spread out in either direction from the pretty pastel-striped 285

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids resort town occupying Tue-Sat Jan-Mar) and the and a community of the headland. Tenby’s National Trust’s restored Cistercian monks. historic core is still partly enclosed by Nor- Tudor Merchant’s House 4 p289 man walls, although all (NT; %01834-842279; www. The Drive » From Tenby it’s that’s left of its castle is nationaltrust.org.uk; Quay a meagre collection of Hill; adult/child £5/2.50; a short and sweet 10-mile hop ruins gazing over the sea. h11am-5pm Wed-Mon Easter- to Pembroke. From the town Jul, Sep & Oct, daily Aug, Sat centre, head west on Greenhill The beach is the big & Sun Nov-Easter). If you’ve Rd, head under the railway attraction here, but if got the time, take a boat bridge and turn right at the the weather’s not co- trip out to Caldey Island roundabout. Follow Hayward operating, pop into Ten- (%01834-844453; www. Lane (the B4318) through a caldey-island.co.uk; adult/child patchwork of fields until you by Museum & Art Gallery £12/6; hMon-Sat May-Sep, reach the Sageston roundabout. (%01834-842809; www. Mon-Thu Apr & Oct), home to Turn left onto the A477 and then tenbymuseum.org.uk; Castle seals, seabirds, beaches veer left on the A4075. Hill; adult/child £4.95/free; h10am-5pm daily Apr-Dec, DETOUR: WEST OF PEMBROKE Start: 8 Pembroke The remote peninsula that forms the bottom lip of the long, deep-sea harbour of Milford Haven has some of the Pembrokeshire Coast’s most dramatic geological features and blissful little beaches. The National Trust–managed Stackpole Estate (NT; %01646-661359; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; hdawn-dusk) covers 8 miles of coastline south and west of Pembroke. It includes the golden sands of Barafundle Bay and Broad Haven South, and a network of walking tracks around the Bosherston Lily Ponds. Continue past Bosherston to the coast and a short steep path leads to the photogenic shell of St Govan’s Chapel, wedged into a slot in the cliffs just above the pounding waves. There’s a natural rock arch here, one of many along this stretch of coast. Sadly, the coast to the west of here is part of a military firing range. When the red flags are flying there’s no public access to some of the Pembrokeshire Coast’s most arresting natural sights – the Elegug Stack Rocks and the gigantic arch known as the Green Bridge of Wales. After sidestepping the firing range, the road continues on to Freshwater West – a moody, wave-battered stretch of coast that has provided a brooding backdrop for movies such as Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows and Ridley Scott’s Robin Hood. It’s widely held to be Wales’ best surf beach, but also one of the most dangerous for swimmers. From Pembroke it’s 4 miles to the Stackpole Estate and 8 miles to Freshwater West. If it’s beach weather, you could easily make a day of it. Take the B4319 heading south from Pembroke; Stackpole, Bosherston and the Ellegug Stack Rocks are reached from narrow country lanes branching off it. The B4319 continues past Freshwater West and terminates at the B4320, where you can turn right to head back to Pembroke. 286

LEIGHTON COLLINS / SHUTTERSTOCK © Parkmill Pennard Castle 8 Pembroke A strip of mainly Geor- village straight out of gian and Victorian build- central casting. Pastel- The little town of ings leads down from the hued cottages line the Pembroke is completely castle, including among gurgling stream running dominated by hulk- them some good pubs through its lower reach- ing Pembroke Castle and the excellent Food at es, while Georgian town (%01646-684585; www. Williams (%01646-689990; houses cling to the cliffs pembroke-castle.co.uk; www.foodatwilliams.co.uk; above. When the tide’s Main St; adult/child £6/5; 18 Main St; mains £5-8.50; out, the water disappears h10am-5pm; c), which h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, completely from the looms over the end of its 10am-3pm Sun; W) cafe. harbour, leaving the sail- main street. The fortress ing fleet striking angular is best viewed from the 4 p289 poses on the sand. Mill Pond, a pretty lake which forms a moat on The Drive » The 24-mile There’s not much to three sides of the craggy do here except to stroll headland from which the journey to Solva heads through about perusing the an- castle rises. Pembroke the port town of Pembroke Dock, tique shops and galleries, played a leading role in crosses the Daugleddau estuary or to settle in some- British history as the and then heads up through where cosy for a meal. birthplace of the first Pembrokeshire’s nondescript Our favourite for the Tudor king, Henry VII. county town of Haverfordwest. latter is the Cambrian Compared to many of Exit Haverfordwest on the A487, Inn (%01437-721210; www. its contemporaries, the which traverses farmland before thecambrianinn.co.uk; 6 Main castle is in extremely reaching the coast at Newgale, good nick, with lots of a surf beach backed by a high St; mains £11-21, s/d £70/95; well-preserved towers, bank of pebbles. From here the hnoon-3pm & 6-9pm; v), dungeons and wall-walks road shadows the coast. an upmarket pub known to explore. Needless to for its gourmet burgers say, kids love it. 9 Solva and meat pies. Clustered around a hook- If you need to burn shaped harbour, Solva is off some calories after- the classic Welsh fishing wards, a 1-mile walk 287

GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids will take you upstream LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: to the Solva Woollen ST DAVID’S DAY Mill (%01437-721112; www. solvawoollenmill.co.uk; Middle St David’s Day is to the Welsh what St Patrick’s Day Mill; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon- is to the Irish – a day to celebrate one’s essential Fri Oct-Jun, 9.30am-5.30pm Welshiness, albeit somewhat more soberly than Mon-Sat, 2-5.30pm Sun Jul- their Celtic brethren from across the way. If you’re Sep), which is the oldest in Wales on 1 March, there’s no better place to be working mill of its kind than the saint’s own city, St Davids. All around the in Pembrokeshire. cathedral a host of golden daffodils explodes into flower seemingly right on cue; people pin leek, 4 p289 daffodil or red dragon badges to their lapels; the streets are strung with flags bearing the black and The Drive » You really can’t gold St David’s cross; and cawl (a traditional soupy stew) is consumed in industrial qualities. Of course, go wrong on the 3-mile drive to the focus of more solemn events is the cathedral, St Davids. Just continue west. where the saint’s remains lie in a recently restored shrine, a replica of one which was destroyed during TRIP HIGHLIGHT the Reformation. a St Davids there’s a treasury and surf you’re after, head to historic library hidden broad, beautiful White- A city only by dint of its within. Right next to the sands Bay (Porth Mawr). prestigious cathedral, cathedral are the ruins pretty St Davids feels of a spectacular medieval Also not to be missed more like a small town bishop’s palace (Cadw; is Oriel y Parc (Landscape or an oversized village. www.cadw.gov.wales; adult/ Gallery; %01437-720392; Yet this little settlement www.orielyparc.co.uk; cnr High looms large in the Welsh child £3.50/2.65; h9.30am- St & Caerfai Rd; h10am- consciousness as the 4pm), an architecturally hometown of its patron 5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm interesting visitor centre saint. Nov-Feb). and art gallery showcas- ing landscape paintings Fascinating St St David was born at from the collection of the Davids Cathedral (www. St Non’s Bay, a ruggedly National Museum Wales. stdavidscathedral.org.uk; beautiful section of coast suggested donation £3, tours with a holy well and a 4 p289 £4; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, cute little chapel, a short 12.45-5.30pm Sun) stands on walk from the centre of the site of the saint’s own town. If it’s a swim or 6th-century religious set- tlement. Wonderful stone and wooden carvings decorate the interior, and 288

Eating & Sleeping Swansea 1 the town walls. Three of the four rooms have en suites, while the other has a private bathroom 4 Christmas Pie B&B accessed from the corridor. B&B ££ (%01792-480266; www.christmaspie.co.uk; Pembroke 8 2 Mirador Cres, Uplands; s/d £53/82; pW) The name suggests something warm and 4 Woodbine B&B ££ comforting, and this suburban villa does not (%01646-686338; www. GREAT BRITAIN 21 West Wales: Swansea to St Davids disappoint. The three en-suite bedrooms are all pembrokebedandbreakfast.co.uk; 84 Main St; s/d individually decorated. Plus there’s fresh fruit from £50/65; W) This well-kept, forest-green and an out-of-the-ordinary, vegetarian-friendly Georgian townhouse presents a smart face to breakfast selection. Pembroke’s main drag. The three pretty guest rooms are tastefully furnished, with original The Mumbles 2 fireplaces and contemporary wallpaper. Two 4 Patricks have en suites, while the family room has its bathroom out on the corridor. with Rooms Boutique Hotel £££ (%01792-360199; www.patrickswithrooms. Solva 9 com; 638 Mumbles Rd; r £120-175; W) Patricks has 16 individually styled bedrooms in bold 4 Haroldston House B&B ££ contemporary colours, with art on the walls, (%01437-721404; www.haroldstonhouse.co.uk; fluffy robes and, in some of the rooms, roll-top 29 High St; r £80-90; pW) Set in a lovely old baths and sea views. Some are set back in Georgian merchant’s house, this wonderful a separate annexe. Downstairs there’s an B&B offers chic modern style. The simple but upmarket restaurant and bar. tastefully decorated rooms feature art by owner Ian McDonald as well as other Welsh or Rhossili 4 Wales-based artists. There’s a free electric-car 5 Bay Bistro & Coffee House Bistro £ charging point, discounts for guests arriving by (%01792-390519; www.thebaybistro.co.uk; public transport, and tasty, inventive breakfast mains £6-12; h10am-5.30pm; v) A buzzy beach cafe with a sunny terrace, good surfy options. vibrations and the kind of drop-your-panini views that would make anything taste good – St Davids a CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption although the roster of burgers, sandwiches, cakes and coffee stands up well regardless. On 4 Tŵr y Felin Hotel £££ summer evenings it opens for alfresco meals. (%01437-725555; www.twryfelinhotel.com; Caerfai Rd; r/ste from £160/240) Incorporating an odd circular tower that was once a windmill, this chic boutique hotel is St Davids’ most Tenby 7 upmarket option. The entire building is lathered with contemporary art, with dozens of pieces 4 Southside Hotel ££ in the lounge-bar and restaurant alone. The (%01834-844355; www.southsidetenby. 21 bedrooms are all luxurious, but the most co.uk; Picton Rd; s/d £45/80; W) Rooms are spectacular is the three-level circular suite in spacious, comfortable and not at all chintzy the tower itself. at this friendly little private hotel just outside 289

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KNOW Climate CURRENCY Warm to hot summers, Pound sterling (£) mild winters LANGUAGE Fort William # # Aberdeen GO May or Sep GO May–Sep English; also Scottish Gaelic and Welsh # Edinburgh GO Any time VISAS GBrOecMoany–Sep # Norwich Generally not needed for GO May–Sep stays of up to six months. # Not a member of the # London Schengen Zone. # Exeter GO Any time GO Apr–Oct FUEL When to Go Urban petrol (gas) stations High Season (Jun–Aug) are plentiful; service stations »»Weather at its best. are regularly spaced on »»Accommodation rates peak. motorways. Fill up before »»Busy roads, especially in seaside areas, national parks and heading into rural areas, where they’re scarcer. big-draw cities. Expect to pay around £1.10 Shoulder (Mar–May & Sep–Oct) per litre. »»Crowds reduce. »»Prices drop. RENTAL CARS »»Weather often good. Avis www.avis.co.uk Low Season (Nov–Feb) »»Wet and cold. Budget www.budget.co.uk »»Snow falls in mountain areas. »»Outside London, opening hours often reduced. Europcar www.europcar. co.uk Thrifty www.thrifty.co.uk IMPORTANT NUMBERS Emergency (%112 or %999) Police, fire, ambulance, mountain rescue, coastguard AA (%0800 88 77 66) Roadside assistance RAC (%800 197 7815) Roadside assistance 290

Your Daily Budget budget to corporate offerings to Mobile Phones Budget: Less than £55 boutique. »»Dorm beds: £15–30 The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 »»Cheap cafe and pub meals: B&Bs Range from a room in network, which covers Europe, someone’s house (with shared Australia and New Zealand, but £7–11 bathroom) to luxury spoils. isn’t compatible with the North American GSM 1900, although Midrange: £55–120 Inns Rooms above rural pubs; most modern mobiles can »»Double hotel or B&B room: can be a cosy choice. function on both networks. £65–130 (London £100–200) Hostels Bare-bones, often Internet Access dorm-style, accommodation. »»3G and 4G mobile broadband »»Restaurant main meal: £10–20 Reviews of places to stay use the coverage is good in urban Top End: More than £120 following price ranges, all based centres, but limited in rural areas. »»Four-star hotel room: from on double room with private bathroom in high season. »»Many accommodation £130 (London from £200) LONDON OTHER providers have wi-fi access (free »»Three-course meal in a good or up to £6 per hour). £ less than less than restaurant: around £40 ££ »»Internet cafes (from £1 per £££ £100 £65 »»Car rental per day: from £35 hour) are rare away from tourist £100– £65– spots. £200 £130 Money Eating more more than than ATMs (‘cash machines’) are Restaurants From cheap-and- £200 £130 common in cities and towns. cheerful to Michelin-starred, Visa and MasterCard are widely covering all cuisines. Arriving in Great accepted, although some B&Bs Britain take cash or cheque only. Pubs Serve reasonably priced meals, some are top notch. Heathrow airport Trains, Tipping London Underground (tube) and Cafes Good daytime option buses to central London from Restaurants Around 10–15% for casual breakfasts, lunch or 5am to around midnight (night in eateries with table service. afternoon tea. buses run later) are £5.70– Pubs & Bars If you order 21.50. Taxis to central London and pay at the bar, tips are not Vegetarian Find meat-free cost £45 to £85. expected. If you order a meal at restaurants in towns and cities. the table and pay afterwards, But rural menus may contain Gatwick airport Trains to then 10% is usual. just one ‘choice’. central London from 4.30am Taxis Roughly 10%. to 1.35am £10–20; 24hr buses In reviews, the following price (hourly) to central London from Useful Websites ranges refer to a main dish. £5. Taxis to central London: Prices are slightly higher in £100. Lonely Planet (www. London. lonelyplanet.com/great-britain) Eurostar trains from Paris Desti­nation information, hotel £ less than £10 or Brussels Arrive at London bookings, traveller forums. ££ St Pancras International station. Visit Britain (www.visitbritain. £££ £10–£20 com) Comprehensive tourist info. Buses from Europe Arrive at more than London Victoria Coach Station. 291 £20 Sleeping Hotels From small townhouses to grand mansions; from

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Grand Arcade YOUR LEGS Browse some of the 60 prestigious shops CAMBRIDGE in Cambridge’s glitzy Grand Arcade. It’s one of the few places you can park Start/Finish: Grand Arcade centrally, so it’s a good place to start. Distance: 3 miles Duration: Three hours The Walk » Head for the Lion Yard entrance; exit University city Cambridge is a place onto Petty Cury, crossing the square to emerge in which to walk. This tour takes in onto stately King’s Parade. Cut left to King’s a prestigious college, magnificent College Chapel. chapels, an ancient library, a cosy teashop and gardens lining a river King’s College Chapel filled with punts. In a city crammed with showstop- Take this walk on Trip ping buildings, King’s College Chapel (%01223-331212; www.kings.cam.ac.uk/ f chapel; King’s Pde; adult/child £9/6; h9.30am- 3.15pm Mon-Sat & 1.15-2.30pm Sun term time, 9.30am-4.30pm daily, to 3.30pm Dec, Jan & university holidays) is the scene-stealer. The grandiose structure is one of England’s most extraordinary examples of Gothic architecture. Its intricate 80m-long, fan- vaulted ceiling is the world’s largest. The Walk » Stroll north up King’s Parade. Great St Mary’s Church A major expansion of Great St Mary’s (www.gsm.cam.ac.uk; Senate House Hill; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) between 1478 and 1519 resulted in the late–Gothic Perpendicular style you see today. Strik- ing features include the mid-Victorian stained-glass windows, seating galleries and two organs. Climb the tower (adult/ child £3.90/2.50) for superb vistas. The Walk » Dodge bicyclists and touting tour guides to marvel at the ornate gates of Gonville & Caius College. Soon Trinity’s elaborate Tudor entrance way towers up on the left. Trinity College The largest of Cambridge’s colleges, elegant Trinity College (www.trin.cam.ac.uk; Trinity St; adult/child £3/1; h10am-4.30pm, closed early Apr–mid-Jun) features a sweeping Great Court: the biggest of its kind in the world. It also boasts the renowned Wren Library (hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 10.30am- 12.30pm Sat term time only), containing 55,000 books dated before 1820. Works include those by Shakespeare and Swift. 292

And an original Winnie the Pooh, writ- 11111 ten by Trinity graduate AA Milne. 11111 The Walk » Head back through Trinity’s entrance 11111 and pass the front of gorgeous St John’s College. 1 1 1 1 1 Victoria Rd Round Church 1 1 1 1 1 Cambridge’s intensely atmospheric Round Church (www.christianheritage.org. 11111 uk; Bridge St; £2.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1.30-5pm Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun) is one of only 000000000000000 four such structures in England. It was built by the mysterious Knights Castle St ChestertoCnaRmd Templar in 1130. No rt hampton St Jesus The Walk » Cut right down sweet, narrow Green Portugal Pl and onto wide Jesus Green. Pass ortugal Pl Park St tennis players to stroll the wooden boardwalk beside the river and ranks of punts. After crossing Bridge St P Round the bridge by Magdelene College, it’s not long before you reach the Backs. Queen's Rd The Church La # Backs Trinity # Jesus The Backs Trinity St College # St John'sSt From here you’ll see the stately sweep of St John’s College amid the trees; Trinity Garrett Green StSidney St sits next door. Welcome to ‘the Backs’, Hostel La a series of riverside parks behind the colleges’ grandiose facades and stately King's Great courts – picture-postcard snapshots of #0000000SC0000000th0000000uMracrhy's graceful bridges and student life. Clare Bridge College #ï # 0000 Chapel The Walk » Nip up Garret Hostel Lane for closer # college views. Next come the gates of Clare College, Grand then glimpses of the impressive King’s College Arcade Chapel; the Palladian Fellows’ Building is to the J%Benet St right. After curving beside Queens’ College, cut left. St King's Pde # FitzPbemillbierosk0000e0000St Mathematical Bridge Mathematical From Silver St’s bridge, look left to spy Bridge the Mathematical Bridge, a flimsy- looking wooden construction built in # 1749. Silver Mill La The Walk » Look out for the fleets of about-to- Newnh a m R d Trumpington St embark punts on the right as you head up Silver St. G ra nta Pl Fitzbillies Fen Causeway Cambridge’s oldest bakery, Fitzbillies (www.fitzbillies.com; 52 Trumpington St; mains £6-12; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) has a soft spot in the hearts of generations of students, thanks to its ultrasticky Chelsea buns. The Walk » Stroll up King’s Parade, passing now- familiar King’s College. Turn right just before Great St Mary’s, retracing your steps back to the car. e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH SouthGate YOUR LEGS BATH On cruising into Bath, follow signs to SouthGate car park. It’s set beneath Start/Finish: SouthGate a new shopping centre which aims to Distance: 2½ miles echo the city’s Georgian architecture. Duration: Three hours The Walk » Exit into St Lawrence St and head Bath’s cityscape is simply sumptuous – so stunning it has north, to join Stall St, before cutting right down World Heritage site status. On this Abbeygate St towards the Roman Baths. walk you’ll encounter architecture ranging from Roman baths via a Roman Baths medieval cathedral to exquisite Georgian designs. The Romans built a complex of bath- houses (p150) above three natural hot Take this walk on Trips springs, which emerge at a toasty 46°C (115°F). They form one of the best- fh preserved ancient Roman spas in the world. A tour reveals the Great Bath (a lead-lined pool filled with steaming water), bathing pools, changing rooms and excavated sections revealing the hypocaust heating system. The Walk » From Bath’s baths it’s a few steps east to the city’s abbey. Bath Abbey Towering Bath Abbey (p196) was built between 1499 and 1616, making it the last great medieval church raised in England. On the striking west facade angels climb up and down stone lad- ders, commemorating a dream of the founder, Bishop Oliver King. You can also take tower tours. The Walk » Cross the square south of Bath Abbey, then wind onto Parade Gardens passing the Empire Hotel (1901) and the rushing weir to Pultney Bridge (1773), a rarity in that it features shops. Then duck up Green St. Tasting Room High-class vintages, tapas and piled- high platters of meats and cheese are the modi operandi of the Tasting Room (%01225-483070; www.tastingroom.co.uk; 6 Green St; mains £6-13; h10.30am-11pm Wed- Sat, to 4.30pm Mon & Tue), a slinky cafe-bar set above a wine merchant. The Walk » Turn into elegant Milsom St, browsing its chic shops as you make your way, via George St, into narrow Bartlett St, a trendy enclave. 294

44 Marlborough Buildings eRoyal # 0 44400 m Cres#cent The Paragon 0 VRicotyoarlia Russell St 0.2 miles Brock The Bath Park Royal Ave St Circus Assembly 44 #Rooms Sydney # Georgian Alfred St Henrietta Gardens Park Car Park GardGeeonrge St Walcot St .# River Avon Great Pulteney St 4 .# BMroialsdomStSt Green St 44 Laura Pl 44 Upper Bristol Rd QueeQnuSeqen Sq # ò# Pulteney Tasting Room Bridge Barton St Recreation Ground Bath Upper Stall St Abbey Borough WallsWestgate St ##ï Roman Baths J% 4444444Midland BridgeRd # Parade Pde Green # Gardens Park York St Cricket Lower North Ground G re Grand Pump Abbeygate St Room Henry St en Park Rd SouthGate # St Lawrence St Pul ten ey Rd Bristol RdRiver Avon .# 444£# Bath Spa Station Bath Assembly Rooms 444Georgian Garden When they opened in 1771, Bath’s As- The tiny, walled Georgian Garden (off sembly Rooms (NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Royal Ave; h9am-5pm) features period 19 Bennett St; h10.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm plants and gravel walkways. They’ve Nov-Feb) were where fashionable social- been carefully restored, providing an ites gathered to waltz, play cards and intriguing insight into what would have listen to the latest chamber music. Tour lain behind the Circus’ grand facades. the card room, tearoom and ballroom. The Walk » Pass through Queen Sq, the oldest The Walk » Next it’s into The Circus (1768), of Bath’s Georgian squares to skirt the elaborate a gorgeous ring of 33 houses divided into semi- Theatre Royal (1805). Upper Borough Walls marks circular terraces. From there gracious Brock St medieval Bath’s northern edge; from here it’s a gradually reveals Bath’s exquisite Royal Crescent. short stroll to the Pump Room. Royal Crescent Grand Pump Room The imposing, impeccably grand Royal The centre of the grand 19th-century Crescent (p196) curls around private Pump Room (www.romanbaths.co.uk; Stall lawns. Designed by John Wood the St; h10am-5pm) is filled with restaurant Younger (1728–82) and built between tables, but the interior also shelters an 1767 and 1775, the houses appear per- ornate spa fountain from which Bath’s fectly symmetrical from the outside, but famous hot springs flow. Ask staff for a no two houses are quite the same inside. (free) glass; it will be startlingly warm – an impressive 38°C (100°F). The Walk » From the Crescent’s far end, stroll The Walk » Cut down Stall St, back into back along Royal Ave. Opposite the bowling green pavilion, cut left from the main road, up an St Lawrence St and back to your car. easy-to-miss path to hunt out the gate in the wall leading into the Georgian Garden. 295



Ireland YOUR MAIN REASON FOR VISITING? TO EXPERIENCE IRELAND OF THE POSTCARD – captivating peninsulas, dramatic wildness and undulating hills. Scenery, history, culture, bustling cosmopolitanism and the stillness of village life – you’ll visit blockbuster attractions and replicate famous photo ops. But there are plenty of surprises too – and they’re all within easy reach of each other. Whether you want to drive through the wildest terrain or sample great food while hopping between spa treatments, we’ve got something for you. Ring of Kerry Ruined cottage on the seashore REMIZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ireland Ballyliffin #]L\\#Bim#^u\\#anDLvPcoaeorndrarrydtny#\\soat/neCwdoae#\\l#\\rretrryaineANFB#\\TGoaRr#÷lleelIsynMtcaaPrisafrtflke Dunfanaghy North \\# Channel Gortahork #\\ Burtonport Letterkenny DONEGAL #\\ \\# FG GFGF FG FG GFGFACTlOaLdCdARCaEolgNiufhAdndTed\\#uNnsBfItf#\\aoCWEnn\\##÷PCNgreeraooaSsiNrsnMrtOot#÷kMionpu#\\ouirle2aDnoCnttgmhNBPoldra2oabhtawlaaoasatBr#\\lteBrtnlylkGaiiGaylrnouelac\\#llCnLa#\\erbyr\\#rBroaoo\\#ncdlae\\#wrlauyacrMnrlg\\#soalihiVbtAKl\\#ynuleiYialm#\\l#^lfaOeb#\\gnceEoSiA2nlrSlBL#\\taRe62nlhGiaIB#\\oi#\\3gGCesyAuosPnLOcLnRroAoWyDdrORmtBL#]ooBAuSEoamrnmYoSCulayle2NoglniOn#\\]#l#\\nig5enhaegMaa#\\rn\\#o\\##\\selMaAla#]#\\oLgtOeEhhoCLNIlnaoRoT#\\-ur#\\LneLESRKrEgFeLooeTinhIciBhrEuwl#\\OMYSabnnkWiDgRRern-eNeRtihrIru]#sMoFngErOGrKakRs::oogSrAcNFrMbiaion#÷#]TllerNO#\\nlEwLalE:esyuMeOAtAnRkalCnOLl\\#EPem]#OeGi:D\\#\\#Anea#÷FALAIHnAagrVFSTOkagbAGAFMNHNrAbhKMooLND:oeDrrreYDOetFmyEn#]lDOislColns:NRateúaNrKri#\\gPRG#\\eAnxgaIDAsa:#÷hYlCLTGih2taer\\#REga/aDknanPH2NLr]#Ra:MnrAaMNoaeRAAlvRruaoMAReíkEoN#\\n#\\YggwwEGaAnhthW2rbyTH#]#]inIr3m2HD#]CLi]#o\\#d5#]DuUKoB\\#Ng\\#L_#DrtuBeLOaDeghINr÷#nOLnDRwoaOUdI\\#OWbngNTEUrWFKa\\##÷r_#yhRHoL\\#iBliHNlekdr\\#bATWeBoLSBdFCgrsHNtwNooIiaaaterEcNnrsetaEPnDk#\\etLhewnlaLslRgyeFoIrtgcoSwrkowANfPuaieoesaarsgSrlhrthldakTlen FGKilkee #\\ TIPPERARY Fergus 2\\#3 #^ Limerick Kilkenny CARLOW Ferns Tarbert#\\ Bay Ballybunion #\\ ]# 4Listowel #\\ Tralee \\# Adare\\# \\#Dungarvan \\# Tipperary ]# Cashel KILKENNY \\# Enniscorthy LIMERICK #\\ New Wexford Ross #\\ \\# ]# Cahir Waterford #^ 4Dingle #\\ Annascaul Castlemaine WEXFORD \\# Rosslare #\\ Harbour #\\ CORK Mallow Lism#\\ orWe AT#\\EDRuFnOgRaDrva\\#nTramore \\# StCGhaeonrngeel's \\# KERRY Kilmore FGKells Quay Portmagee #\\ GF#\\ 24 #÷ KNia#]ltlaiKornnilaellyaPranreky Cor#^k 23 \\# \\#Ardmore Youghal #\\ Kenmare GFWaterville \\# #\\ Cobh \\# Caherdaniel 2#\\2 #÷ Gougane Barra Forest Park \\# \\# Bantry Glengarriff #\\ Clonakilty #\\ Baltimore e# 0 50 km 0 25 miles 298