Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

it fell into English hands NAHLIK/GETTY IMAGES © in the 17th century. It’s a deeply picturesque spot: a low, water-fringed prom- ontory with a moat hewn out of the rock. The Drive » Near Creeslough, the bulk of Muckish Mountain rears up before the N56 to Dunfanaghy undulates past homesteads, loughs and sandy bays. Once in Dunfanaghy, with its gently kooky vibe, welcoming pubs and great places to sleep (see p351), look out for the signpost pointing right to Horn Head (25km). f Horn Head g Meenaleck Belfast Titanic Belfast This headland provides You never know who’ll TRIP HIGHLIGHT one of Donegal’s best drop by for one of the clifftop drives: along legendary singalongs at h Arranmore Island sheer, heather-clad Leo’s Tavern (%074-954 quartzite cliffs with 8143; www.leostavern.com; Arranmore (Árainn views of an island-dotted off R259, Crolly; hkitchen Mhór) offers a true taste sea. A circular road bears 1-8.45pm Jun-Sep, 5-8.45pm of Ireland. Framed by left to the coastguard Thu-Fri, 1-8.45pm Sat, 1-8pm dramatic cliff faces, station – park to take Sun Oct-May; Wc) in cavernous sea caves and the 20-minute walk due Meenaleck. It’s owned by clear sandy beaches, this north to the signal tower. Bartley Brennan, brother 9km-by-5km island sits Hop back in the car, of Enya and her siblings 5km offshore. Here you’ll continuing east – around Máire, Ciaran and Pól discover a prehistoric 1km later a viewpoint (aka the group Clannad). triangular fort and an off- tops cliffs 180m high. The pub glitters with shore bird sanctuary flut- There’s another superb gold, silver and platinum tering with corncrakes, vantage point 1km fur- discs and is packed with snipes and seabirds. Irish ther round – on a fine day musical mementos – is the main language you’ll see Ireland’s most there’s live music nightly spoken, pubs put on turf northerly point, Malin in the summer. fires, and trad-music Head. sessions run late into The Drive » Continue west the night. To get the full The Drive » The N56 castaway experience, stay on the R259 as it bobbles overnight (book). The Ar- continues west. Settlements and twists besides scattered ranmore Ferry (%074-952 thin out, the road climbs and communities and a boggy, then 0532; www.arranmoreferry. the pointed peak of Mt Errigal sandy, shore. Head on to the com; Burtonport; return adult/ fills more and more of your pocket-sized port of Burtonport, child/car & driver €15/7/30; windshield before the road following ferry signs right, to h4-8 daily sailings year-round) swings away. At tiny Crolly, follow embark for Arranmore Island takes 20 minutes. the R259 towards the airport, (25km). then turn right, picking up signs 4 p351 for Leo’s Tavern (35km). 349

IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell DETOUR: air. At tiny Maghera, FINTOWN RAILWAY head through the car park, down a track, over Start: h Arranmore Island (p349) a boardwalk and onto a truly stunning expanse You’ve been driving for days now – time to let the of pure-white sand. This train take the strain. The charming Fintown Railway exquisite place belies (%074-954 6280; www.antraen.com; off R250, Fintown; a bloody past. Some adult/child €8/5; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Jun–mid- 100 villagers hid from Sep) runs along a rebuilt 5km section of the former Cromwell’s forces in County Donegal Railway track beside picturesque nearby caves – all except Lough Finn. It’s been lovingly restored to its original one were discovered and condition, and a return trip in the red-and-white, massacred. 1940s diesel railcar takes around 40 minutes. To get to the railway, head east on the R252, off the N56 The Drive » Drive west south of Dungloe. Then settle back to enjoy the ride. through Maghera on a dramatic The Drive » The R259 remains: St Connell, a route that makes straight for the cousin of St Colmcille, gap in the towering hills.At the bounces down to Dungloe, founded a monastery fork, turn right, heading deeper where you take the N56 south here in the 6th century. into the remote headland, making into a rock-strewn landscape for Glencolumbcille (20km). that’s backed by the Blue Stack 4 p351 Mountains. After a stretch The Drive » Continue south k Glencolumbcille of rally-circuit-esque road, the sweep of Gweebarra Bay on the R261 through tweed- The welcome in the emerges. Take the sharp right producing Ardara. Shortly after scattered, pub-dotted, towards peaceful Narin (R261), leaving town, take the right, bayside village of following signs to the beach (trá), signed ‘Waterfall’, following a road Glencolumbcille (Gleann 45km from Arranmore Island. wedged between craggy hills and Cholm Cille) is warm. an increasingly sandy shore. In This remote settlement i Narin time the Assarancagh Waterfall also offers a glimpse of a (14km) comes into view. disappearing way of life. You’ve now entered the Father McDyer’s Folk beautiful Loughrea j Assarancagh Village (www.glenfolkvillage. Peninsula, which Waterfall com; Doonalt; adult/child glistens with tiny lakes €4.50/2.50; h10am-6pm cupped by undulating Step out of the car and Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Easter- hills. Narin boasts a you immediately feel Sep) took traditional life spectacular 4km-long, what an enchanting spot of the 1960s and froze wishbone-shaped Blue this is. As the waterfall it in time. Its thatched Flag beach, the sandy tip streams down the sheer cottages re-create daily of which points towards hillside, walk along life with genuine period Iniskeel Island. You can the road (really a lane) fittings, while the Craft walk to the island at low towards the sea. This Shop sells wines made tide along a 500m sandy 1.5km route leads past from such things as causeway. Your reward? time-warp farms – sheep seaweed, as well as An intimate island stud- bleat and the tang of marmalade and whiskey ded with early Christian peat smoke scents the truffles – a few treats at your journey’s end. 350

Eating & Sleeping Ballycastle 2 Rathmelton b 4 An Caislean Guesthouse ₤₤ 4 Frewin House B&B €€ Guesthouse (%074-915 1246; www.frewinhouse.com; Rectory (%028-2076 2845; www.ancaislean.co.uk; 42 Rd; d €110-150; p) Set in secluded grounds, Quay Rd; s/d from £45/60; pW) An Caislean this fine Victorian rectory combines antique has a luxurious lounge, a summer tea room and furniture with contemporary style. You can IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell restaurant, and a welcoming atmosphere.It’s arrange for a communal dinner by candlelight. just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. Portstewart 5 Downings d 4 Strandeen B&B ₤₤ 4 Beach Hotel €€ (Óstán na Trá; %074-915 5303; www.beachhotel. (%028-7083 3872; www.strandeen.com; 63 ie; s/d €80/120; p) Many of the bright, modern Strand Rd; d from £110) Set on a hilltop and more rooms at this large family-run hotel have ocean like a boutique hotel than a B&B, Strandeen has views. You can refuel in its restaurant (three four beautiful rooms, scrumptious organic and/ courses for €27.50) or bar (mains €10 to €22). or free-range breakfasts, bike rental (per day It’s in Downings, 4km north of Carrigart. £15), and an ocean-facing terrace. Derry 7 Dunfanaghy e 4 Merchant’s House B&B ₤₤ 4 Corcreggan Mill Guesthouse € (%074-913 6409; www.corcreggan.com; off (%028-7126 9691; www.thesaddlershouse. N56; camp sites from €12, s/d from €60/75; com; 16 Queen St; s/d/tr/f from £40/65/90/100; iW) Spotless four-bed dorms and private iW) This historic, Georgian-style town house guest rooms are tucked into cosy corners of this has an elegant lounge and dining room and lovingly restored former mill house, Continental home-made marmalade at breakfast. Some breakfast is included in the room rates. Some rooms share a bathroom. Call at Saddler’s rooms have private bathrooms. The mill is House (36 Great James St) first to pick up a key. 2.5km southwest of town on the N56. Glenevin Waterfall 9 Arranmore Island h 4 Glen House Guesthouse €€ 4 Claire’s Bed & Breakfast B&B € (%074-937 6745; www.glenhouse.ie; Straid, (%074-952 0042; www.clairesbandb.wordpress. Clonmany; r €70-100; pW) Despite the grand com; Leabgarrow; s/d €35/60; W) This modern surroundings and luxurious rooms, you’ll find house with simple rooms is right by the ferry port. neither pretension nor high prices at this gem of a guesthouse. The rooms are a lesson in Narin i restrained sophistication, and the setting is incredibly tranquil. The walking trail to Glenevin 4 Carnaween House B&B €€ Waterfall starts next to the Rose Tea Room (%074-954 5122; www.carnaweenhouse.com; (mains from €6; h10am-6pm daily Jul-Aug, Sat Narin; s/d €60/120, cottage from €210, mains & Sun only Mar-Jun & Sep-Oct), which opens to €15-25; hkitchen 6-9pm Thu-Sun, 1-4pm Sun a deck. Jun-Sep, shorter hrs rest of year; W) Carnaween House glows with brilliant white bedrooms in a luxury beach-house style. The restaurant serves modern Irish fare. 351

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DOUG MCKINLAY/GETTY IMAGES © Musical 26Landscapes From the busker-packed streets of Galway city, this rip-roaring ride takes you around County Clare and the Aran Islands to discover fine traditional-music pubs, venues and festivals. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 155 km 5 DAYS 155KM / 96 MILES Inisheer End-of-the-earth GREAT FOR… landscape and Ll traditional drumming HBJ festival Galway # # BEST TIME TO GO Inishmór The summer months, for outdoor céilidh Km#9# Doolin # Lisdoonvarna (traditional dancing) and music festivals. # I ESSENTIAL Kilfenora # PHOTO ##4 Nightly set-dancing at the crossroads, in Miltown # ##2 Vaughan’s of Kilfenora. Malbay 65 km K BEST FOR Ennistymon Ennis SONG Country village with Medieval town simply roaring Cascades and bursting with fine pubs Ennis, on summer music at every turn featuring trad music nights, where local musicians ply their 110 km wares. DLoocoalitnioAnmCuaspitcioianndpeetrafiolsrmtosgaot Gus O’Connor’s Pub 353 here

26 Musical Greatman's Landscapes Bay Gorumna Carra\\#roe Island #\\ Lettermullen Lettermullen Island SNoournthd Pick the big bawdy get-togethers of Galway’s always- GF#Inishmór 8 #\\ Kilronan on music scene, the atmospheric small pub sessions 23 in crossroad villages like Kilfenora or Kilronan on Inishmaan the Aran Islands, where nonplaying patrons are a Aran Islands minority, or the rollicking urban boozers in Ennis. Whatever way you like it, this region is undeniably one of Ireland’s hottest for traditional music. 1 Galway City nights. Or for something ATLANTIC more contemporary, OCEAN Galway (Gaillimh) has a Róisín Dubh (www. young student popula- roisindubh.net; Upper Dominick e# 0 10 km tion and largely creative St; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 0 5 miles community that give a till 2.30am Fri & Sat) is the palpable energy to the place to hear emerging trad music. Brogan’s (24 place. Walk its colourful international rock and O’Connell St; h10.30am- medieval streets, packed singer-songwriters. with heritage shops, 11.30pm Mon-Thu, to 12.30am sidewalk cafes and pubs, 5 4 p312, p361 all ensuring there’s never Fri & Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun), a dull moment. Galway’s The Drive » From Galway city on the corner of Cooke’s pub selection is second Lane, sees a fine bunch of to none, and some swing centre, follow either the coast musicians rattling even to tunes every night of road (R338) east out of town, the stone floors almost the week. Crane Bar or the inner R446, signposted every night in summer, (www.thecranebar.com; 2 Dublin or Limerick, as far as the and the plain-tile-fronted Sea Rd; h10.30am-11.30pm N18 and then cruise south to John O’Dea (66 O’Connell St; Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30am Ennis, where your great musical h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun), an tour of Clare begins. atmospheric old pub west of the Corrib, is the best TRIP HIGHLIGHT spot in Galway to catch an informal céilidh most 2 Ennis Ennis (Inis), a medieval town in origin, is packed with pubs featuring 354

lL 4¼#\\ Carnmore Athenry GALWAY M6 #\\ #4¼ 4¼Galway 1 R338 R446 #\\ Oranmore 4¼#\\ R336 #\\ #\\ #\\ Inverin Spiddal Barna Salthill #\\ Clarinbridge Galway Bay #\\ Kilcolgan GF23 New Kinvara Quay IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes Dobhach Bhráinín Burren Village #\\ 4¼ 4¼Bay Ardrahan #\\ (318m) R Blackhead #\\ N67 Kin#\\varRa347 Bay 4¼N18 Caher Valley Ballyvaughan 4¼Fanore #\\ (Khyber Pass) #\\ #\\ Bell Harbour #\\ Gort Oughtmama LCouutrgah Corkscrew R Valley Turlough #9 Km R Hill The Hill SSoouunthd SElilevvae (180m) Burren (282m) Inisheer R477 FG23 R 4¼(345m) N67 4¼R480 Doolin #6#\\ Lisdoonvarna #\\ Carron 4¼R460 Mul(l1a9g1hmm) ore ##\\7 4¼ 4¼ #N67 5#\\ Kilfenora R CLARE Lough 4¼M18 R478 George #\\ Crusheen 4¼R481 Lough #\\ Kilnaboy HHaegad's Liscannor Inchiquin Clare #\\ Corofin Lakelands ##\\ 4¼R460 #\\ Ruan Lahinch 4#\\ Ennistymon #\\ 23 4¼R476 GFLiscannor Bay 4¼N85 4¼N67 Miltown 4¼R460 #\\ Inagh 4¼N85 #\\ Tulla ##\\3 Malbay 4¼R474 # 4¼Ennis #\\2 MBaayl #\\ Spanish 4¼N68 M18 #\\ Quin Point #\\ Clarecastle #\\ ‚ FG151 km to 24 Quilty to 12.30am Fri & Sat, 12.30- LINK 11pm Sun) is a hideout for YOUR local musicians serious TRIP about their trad sessions. Cois na hAbhna (%065- n The Long Way o Ring of Kerry 682 0996; www.coisnahabhna. Round Head south to Killarney via Limerick to ie; Gort Rd; hshop 9am-5pm, From Galway, pick up this encounter jaw-dropping trad sessions 9pm Tue), a trip north or south for scenery around the pilgrimage point for crenellated coastlines, Iveragh Peninsula. traditional music and vibrant port cities and culture, has frequent island treasures. performances and a full 355

IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes range of classes in dance the low cliffs, coves country villages where and music; it’s also an and isolated beaches. A people go about their archive and library of classically friendly place business barely notic- Irish traditional music, in the chatty Irish way, ing the characterful song, dance and folklore. Miltown Malbay hosts buildings lining Main St. Traditional music aficio- the annual Willie Clancy And behind this facade nados might like to time Summer School, one there’s a surprise: the a visit with Fleadh Nua of Ireland’s great trad roaring Cascades, the (www.fleadhnua.com), a music events. O’Friel’s stepped falls of the River lively festival held in late Bar (Lynch’s; The Square; Inagh. After heavy rain May. h2pm-midnight Sun-Wed, they surge, beer-brown 6pm-1am Thu-Sat) is one and foaming, and you 5 4 p312, p361 of a couple of genuine risk getting drenched The Drive » From the N85 old-style places with on windy days in the occasional trad sessions. flying drizzle. Not to be that runs south of The Burren, The other is the dapper missed, Eugene’s (Main St; you’ll meet the smaller R460 Hillery’s (Main St; hnoon- h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, at the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it 12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am 10.30am-12.30am Fri-Sat, village of Inagh. Here you’ll find Fri-Sat). 12.30-11pm Sun) is intimate the Biddy Early Brewery, which and cosy and has a sells a draught ale, Red Biddy, The Drive » Hugging the trademark collection of made using local Burren plants visiting cards cover- and seaweeds for flavouring. coast, continue north until ing its walls, alongside Refuelled, it’s a straight run into you come to the small seaside photographs of famous Miltown Malbay. resort of Lahinch, more or less writers and musicians. a single street backing a wide The inspiring collection 3 Miltown Malbay beach renowned for its surfing. of whiskey (Irish) and From here, it’s only 4km up the whisky (Scottish) will Miltown Malbay was road to the lovely heritage town have you smoothly debat- a resort favoured by of Ennistymon. ing their relative merits. well-to-do Victorians, Another great old pub is though the beach itself TRIP HIGHLIGHT Cooley’s House (%065- is 2km south at Span- 707 1712; Main St; h10.30am- ish Point. To the north 4 Ennistymon 11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11.30pm of the Point, there are Sun), with music most beautiful walks amid Ennistymon (Inis nights in summer and on Díomáin) is one of those Wednesday (trad night) in winter. THE PIED PIPER 4 p361 Half the population of Miltown Malbay seems to be part of the annual Willie Clancy Irish Summer The Drive » Heading north School (%065-708 4148; www.scoilsamhraidhwillieclancy. com; hJul), a tribute to a native son and one of through a patchwork of green Ireland’s greatest pipers. The eight-day festival, now fields and stony walls on the in its fourth decade, begins on the first Saturday in R481, you’ll land at the tiny July, when impromptu sessions occur day and night, village of Kilfenora, some 9km the pubs are packed and Guinness is consumed by later. Despite its diminutive size, the barrel – up to 10,000 enthusiasts from around the pulse of Clare’s music scene the globe turn up for the event. Specialist workshops beats strongly in this area. and classes underpin the event; don’t be surprised to attend a recital with 40 noted fiddlers. 356

DESIGN PICS/TRISH PUNCH/GETTY IMAGES © Kilfenora Kilfenora Cathedral 5 Kilfenora a strong music tradition vaughanspub.ie; Main St; mains that rivals that of Doolin €8-15; hkitchen 10am-9pm) Underappreciated Kilfe- but without the crowds. has music in the bar nora (Cill Fhionnúrach) The Kilfenora Céili Band every night during the lies on the southern (www.kilfenoraceiliband. summer and terrific fringe of The Burren. com) is a celebrated set-dancing sessions in It’s a small place, with a community that’s been its barn on Thursday and diminutive 12th-century playing for 100 years; Sunday nights. cathedral, and is best its traditional music known for its high features fiddles, banjos, The Drive » From Kilfenora, crosses. The town has squeeze boxes and more. Vaughan’s Pub (www. the road meanders northwest 8km to Lisdoonvarna, home of the international matchmaking 357

MICHELLE MCMAHON/GETTY IMAGES © ROBIN BUSH/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP FIONN DAVENPORT, WRITER To witness a proper traditional session in one of the music houses of Clare or the fine old pubs of Galway can be a transcendent experience, especially if it’s appropriately lubricated with a pint (or few) of stout. Sure, there’ll be plenty of tourists about, but this is authentic, traditional Ireland at its most evocative. Top: Abandoned cottage, Inishmór Left: Eugene’s, Ennistymon Right: Musician, Galway

IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapesfestival. Posh during Victorian times, the town is more down NEIL SETCHFIELD/GETTY IMAGES © at heel today, but friendly, good-looking and far less overrun than Doolin. 6 Lisdoonvarna Lisdoonvarna (Lios Dún Bhearna), often just called ‘Lisdoon’, is well known for its mineral springs. For centuries people have been visiting the local spa to swallow its waters. Down by the river at Roadside Tavern (www. roadsidetavern.ie; Kincora Rd; mains €11.50-20; hnoon-4pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat, noon-8pm Sun), third- generation owner Peter Curtin knows every story worth telling. There are trad sessions daily in summer. Look for a trail beside the pub that runs 400m down to two wells by the river. One is high in sulphur, the other iron. Mix and match for a cocktail of minerals. Next door, Burren Smokehouse (%065-707 4432; www.burren smokehouse.ie; Kincora Rd; h9am-7pm May-Aug, 9am-6pm Apr, 10am-5pm Mar & Sep-Oct, shorter hrs winter; p) is where you can learn about the ancient Irish art of oak-smoking salmon. The Drive » Just under 10 minutes’ drive west of here is the epicentre of Clare’s trad music scene, at Doolin. Also known for its setting – 6km north of the Cliffs of Moher – what’s called Doolin is really three small neighbouring villages. There’s Fisherstreet, right on the water, Doolin itself, about 1km east on the little River Aille, and Roadford, another 1km east. 359

IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes 7 Doolin thousands of travellers TRIP HIGHLIGHT each year who find their Doolin gets plenty of desolate beauty beguil- 9 Inisheer press as a centre of Irish ing. The largest and traditional music, owing most accessible Aran, On Inisheer (Inis Oírr), to a trio of pubs that Inishmór, is home to the smallest of the Aran have sessions through ancient fort Dún Aengus Islands, the breathtak- the year. McGann’s (www. (Dún Aonghasa; www. ingly beautiful end-of- mcgannspubdoolin.com; heritageireland.ie/en/west/ the-earth landscape adds Roadford; h10am-12.30am, dunaonghasa/; adult/child to the island’s distinctly kitchen 10am-9.30pm) has €4/2; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, mystical aura. Steeped all the classic touches 9.30am-4pm Nov-Mar, closed in mythology, traditional of a full-on Irish music Mon & Tue Jan & Feb), one of rituals are still very pub; the action often the oldest archaeologi- much respected here. spills out onto the street. cal remains in Ireland. Locals still carry out a Right on the water, Gus The island also has some pilgrimage with potential O’Connor’s Pub (www.gus lively pubs and restau- healing powers, known oconnorspubdoolin.net; Fish- rants, particularly in as the Turas, to the Well erstreet; h9am-midnight), a the only town, Kilronan. of Enda, an ever-burbling sprawling favourite, has Irish remains the local spring in the southwest. a rollicking atmosphere. tongue, but most locals For a week in late June It easily gets the most speak English with visi- the island reverberates to crowded and has the tors. Tí Joe Watty’s Bar the thunder of traditional highest tourist quotient. (www.joewattys.com; Kilronan; drums during Craiceann MacDiarmada’s (Roadford; hkitchen 12.30-9pm) is the Inis Oírr International hbar 11am-midnight, kitchen best pub in Kilronan, Bodhrán Summer School 9am-9.30pm), also known with traditional sessions (www.craiceann.com), which as McDermott’s, is a most nights. Turf fires includes Bodhrán master simple and sometimes warm the air on the 50 classes, workshops and rowdy red-and-white old weeks a year when this is pub sessions as well as pub popular with locals. needed. Informal music Irish dancing. Rory Con- When the fiddles get sessions, turf fires and a neely’s atmospheric inn going, it can seem like a broad terrace with har- Tigh Ruaírí (Strand House; scene out of a John Ford bour views make Tí Joe %099-75020; www.tighruairi. movie. Mac’s (Kilronan) a local fa- com; r €50-90; i) hosts vourite, while jovial Tigh live music sessions and, 4 p361 Fitz (Killeany), near the here since 1897, Tigh Ned airport, has traditional (meals €5-10) is a welcom- The Drive » You’ll need to sessions and set dancing ing, unpretentious place, every weekend. It’s 1.6km with harbour views and leave your car at one of Doolin’s from Kilronan (about a lively traditional music. many car parks to board the 25-minute walk). ferry to the Aran Islands. 4 p361 4 p361 8 Inishmór The Drive » Ferries can be The Aran Islands sing their own siren song to picked up between Aran Islands but tickets must be prebooked. 360

Eating & Sleeping Galway City 1 married Dylan Thomas. With 140 modern rooms and a large, enclosed pool, the hotel’s 4 Heron’s Rest B&B €€ view of the Cascades from the entrance steps is breathtaking, and there are 20 hectares of (%091-539 574; www.theheronsrest.com; wooded gardens. 16a Longwalk; s/d from €80/140; W) Ideally located in a lovely row of houses on the banks of Doolin 7 the Corrib, the thoughtful hosts here give you IRELAND 26 Musical Landscapes deck chairs so you can sit outside and enjoy the 4 Cullinan’s Guesthouse Inn €€ scene. Other touches include holiday-friendly (%065-707 4183; www.cullinansdoolin.com; d breakfast times (8am to 11am), decanters of from €100; pW) Owned by well-known fiddle- port (enough for a glass or two) and more. playing James Cullinan, the eight rooms at this Rooms are small and cute, with double-glazed smart place on the River Aille are very good- windows and water views. looking, with power showers and comfortable fittings. A couple of rooms are slightly smaller Ennis 2 than the others, but are right on the water. 5 Zest There’s a lovely back terrace for enjoying the Cafe € views. (www.zestfood.ie; Market Pl; meals €5-10; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun) Inishmór 8 Zest combines a deli, bakery, shop and cafe. Excellent prepared foods from the region are 4 Man of Aran Cottage B&B €€ offered along with salads, soups and much (%099-61301; www.manofarancottage.com; more. It’s ideal for a coffee or lunch. Kilmurvey; s/d from €55/80; hMar-Oct) Built 4 Old Ground Hotel Hotel €€ for the 1930s film of the same name, this (%065-682 8127; www.flynnhotels.com; thatched B&B doesn’t trade on past glories – O’Connell St; s/d from €120/150; piW) A its authentic stone-and-wood interiors define seasoned, charming and congenial space of charming. The owners are avid organic polished floorboards, cornice-work, antiques gardeners (the tomatoes are famous) and their and open fires, the lobby is always a scene: bounty can become your meal (mains €22). old friends sinking into sofas, deals cut at the tables, and ladies from the neighbouring Inisheer 9 church’s altar society exchanging gossip over tea. Parts of this smart and rambling landmark 4 Fisherman’s Cottage & date back to the 1800s. The 83 rooms vary B&B €€ greatly in size and decor – don’t hesitate to South Aran House inspect a few. On balmy days, retire to tables (%099-75073; www.southaran.com; Castle on the lawn. Village; s/d €49/80; hApr-Oct; W) Slow-food enthusiasts run this sprightly B&B and cafe Ennistymon 4 that’s a mere five-minute walk from the pier; look for the lavender growing in profusion at 4 Falls Hotel Hotel €€ the entrance. Meals (dinner mains €12 to €20) (%065-707 1004; www.fallshotel.ie; off N67; celebrate local seafood and organic produce. r from €95; pWs) Built on the ruins of an Nonguests can enjoy cakes by day and dinner at O’Brien castle, this handsome and sprawling night, but will need to book. Rooms are simple Georgian house was once Ennistymon House, yet stylish. Kayaking and fishing are among the the family home of Caitlín MacNamara, who activities on offer. 361

NEED TO ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KNOW Climate CURRENCY Warm to hot summers, Republic of Ireland: Euro (€); mild winters Northern Ireland: pound sterling (£) Belfast # GO May-Sep LANGUAGES Galway Dublin English, Irish GO May-Sep # # GO Any time VISAS lots of indoor attractions Generally not required by citizens of Europe, Australia, Kerry Cork New Zealand, USA and GO May-Sep # # GO May-Sep Canada. When to Go FUEL High Season (Jun–mid-Sep) Petrol (gas) stations are »»Weather at its best. everywhere, but are limited »»Accommodation rates at their highest (especially in August). on motorways. Expect »»Tourist peak in Dublin, Kerry, southern and western coasts. to pay €1.30 per litre of unleaded (€1.20 for diesel) Shoulder Season (Easter to May, mid-Sep to Oct) in the Republic and £1.15 »»Weather often good; sun and rain in May, ‘Indian summers’ for unleaded and diesel in Northern Ireland. and often warm in September. RENTAL CARS »»Summer crowds and accommodation rates drop off. Avis (www.avis.ie) Low Season (Nov–Feb) »»Reduced opening hours from October to Easter; some Europcar (www.europcar.ie) destinations close. Hertz (www.hertz.ie) »»Cold and wet weather throughout the country; fog can reduce Thrifty (www.thrifty.ie) visibility. IMPORTANT NUMBERS »»Big-city attractions operate as normal. Country code (%353 Republic of Ireland, %44 Northern Ireland) Emergencies (%999) Roadside Assistance (%1800 667 788 Republic of Ireland, %0800 887 766 Northern Ireland) 362

Daily Costs Sleeping Buses Take around 45 minutes Budget: Less than €60 to the centre of Dublin. »»Dorm bed: €12–20 Hotels From chain hotels to »»Cheap meal in cafe or pub: Norman castles – with prices to Mobile Phones match. €6–12 Phones from most other B&Bs Standards vary, but countries work in Ireland but »»Pint: €4.50–5 (more expensive the B&B is the bedrock of Irish attract roaming charges. Local accommodation. SIM cards cost from €10; SIM in cities) and basic handsets around €40. Hostels Feature clean dorms Midrange: €60–120 and wi-fi. Some have laundry and Internet Access »»Double room in hotel or B&B: kitchen facilities. Most hotels, B&Bs, hostels, bars €80–180 (more expensive in Sleeping price indicators and restaurants offer free wi-fi Dublin) represent the cost of a double access. Internet cafes charge up room in high season: to €6/£5 per hour. »»Main course in midrange Republic/ Northern Money restaurant: €12–25 Ireland ATMs are widely available. Credit »»Car rental (per day): from €/£ <€80/£50 and debit cards can be used in €€/££ most places, but check first. €25–45 €80–180/ £50–120 Tipping Top End: More than €120 »»Four-star hotel stay: from €150 €€€/£££ >€180/£120 Not obligatory, but 10% to 15% »»Three-course meal in good in restaurants; €1/£1 per bag for hotel porters. restaurant: around €50 Useful Websites »»Top round of golf (midweek): Entertainment Ireland from €90 (www.entertainment.ie) Countrywide listings for every Eating Arriving in Ireland kind of entertainment. Dublin Airport Failte Ireland (www. Restaurants From cheap discoverireland.ie) Official cafes to Michelin-starred feasts, Rental cars The main rental tourist board website – practical covering all kinds of cuisines. agencies have offices at the info and a huge accommodation airport. database. Cafes For all-day breakfasts, Lonely Planet (www. sandwiches and basic dishes. Taxis Taxis to the city take 30 to lonelyplanet.com/ireland) 45 minutes and cost €20 to €25. Destination information, hotel Pubs Pub grub ranges from bookings, traveller forums and toasted sandwiches to carefully Buses Run every 10 to 15 more. crafted dishes. minutes to the city centre (€7). Northern Ireland Tourist Hotels All hotel restaurants take Cork Airport Board (www.nitb.com) Official non-guests. They’re a popular tourist site. option in the countryside. Rental cars There are car-hire desks for the main companies. Eating price indicators represent the cost of a main dish: Taxis A taxi to/from town costs €20 to €25. Republic/Northern Ireland Buses Run every half hour between 6am and 10pm to the €/£ <€12/£12 train station (€7.40). €€/££ €12–25/ Dun Laoghaire €€€/£££ £12–20 Ferry Port >€25/£20 DART (Suburban rail); 25 minutes to the centre of Dublin. 363

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language Irish (Gaeilge) is the country’s official language. In 2003 the government introduced the Official Languages Act, whereby all official documents and street signs must be either in Irish or in both Irish and English. Despite its official status, Irish is really only spoken in pockets of rural Ire- land known as the Gaeltacht, the main ones being Cork (Corcaigh), Donegal (Dún na nGall), Galway (Gaillimh), Kerry (Ciarraí) and Mayo (Maigh Eo). Ask people outside the Gaeltacht if they can speak Irish and nine out of 10 of them will probably reply, ‘ah, cupla focal’ (a couple of words), and they generally mean it – but many adults also regret not having a greater grasp of it. Irish is a compulsory subject in schools for those aged six to 15. In recent times, a new Irish curriculum has been introduced cutting the hours devoted to the subject but making the lessons more fun, practical and celebratory. Irish divides vowels into long (those with an accent) and short (those without), and also distinguishes between broad (a, á, o, ó, u) and slender (e, é, i and í), which can affect the pronunciation of preceding consonants. Other than a few clusters, such as mh and bhf (both pronounced as w), consonants are generally pronounced the same as in English. Irish has three main dialects: Connaught Irish (in Galway and northern Mayo), Munster Irish (in Cork, Kerry and Waterford) and Ulster Irish (in Donegal). Our pronunciation guides are an anglicised version of modern standard Irish, which is essentially an amalgam of the three – if you read them as if they were English, you’ll be able to get your point across in Gaeilge without even having to think about the specifics of Irish pronunciation or spelling. BASICS Thank you (very) much. Go raibh (míle) goh rev (meela) maith agat. mah agut Hello. Dia duit. deea gwit Excuse me. gamoh lesh scale Hello. (reply) deeas moyra gwit Gabh mo leithscéal. Dia is Muire duit. I’m sorry. taw brohn oruhm Good morning. Tá brón orm. Maidin mhaith. mawjin wah Do you speak (Irish)? An bhfuil (Gaeilge) agat? on wil (gaylge) oguht Good night. Oíche mhaith. eekheh wah I don’t understand. Ní thuigim. nee higgim Goodbye. (when leaving) Slán leat. slawn lyat What is this? Cad é seo? kod ay shoh Goodbye. (when staying) Slán agat. slawn agut Yes. taw Want More? Tá. For in-depth language information and No. handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- Níl. neel et’s Irish Language & Culture. You’ll find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or It is. sheh you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone Sea. phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. It isn’t. nee heh Ní hea. 364

Signs What’s your name? Cad is ainm duit? kod is anim dwit Dúnta Gardaí Closed My name is (Sean Frayne). Leithreas Police (Sean Frayne) is (shawn frain) is Ná Caitear Tobac Toilet ainm dom. anim dohm Oifig An Phoist No Smoking Oifig Eolais Post Office Impossible! nee faydir ay Oscailte Tourist Information Ní féidir é! Páirceáil Open Fir Parking Nonsense! rawmaysh Mná Men Ráiméis! Women That’s terrible! guh hoofawsokh Go huafásach! Take it easy. tohg ay gobogay Tóg é gobogé. DAYS OF THE WEEK What is that? kod ay shin Monday Dé Luaín day loon Cad é sin? baw wah lohm Tuesday Dé Máirt day maart I’d like to go to … dull go dee … Wednesday Dé Ceádaoin day kaydeen Ba mhaith liom bah wah lohm … Thursday Déardaoin daredeen dul go dtí … a kyanukh Friday Dé hAoine day heeneh I’d like to buy … kyawn ella Saturday Dé Sathairn day sahern Ba mhaith liom … goh dyass Sunday Dé Domhnaigh day downick a cheannach. another/one more NUMBERS ceann eile nice 1 go deas 2 MAKING CONVERSATION 3 haon hayin dó doe Welcome. 4 trí tree Ceád míle fáilte. kade meela fawlcha 5 ceathaír kahirr (lit: 100,000 welcomes) cúig kooig 6 sé shay Bon voyage! seacht shocked Go n-éirí an bóthar leat! go nairee on bohhar lat 7 hocht hukt 8 naoi nay How are you? kunas aw taw too 9 deich jeh Conas a tá tú? haon déag hayin jague 10 dó dhéag doe yague I’m fine. thawm go mah fiche feekhe Táim go maith. 11 fiche haon feekhe hayin 12 … please. … maws ay do hall ay 20 … más é do thoil é. 21 Cheers! Slainte! slawncha 365

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STRETCH Trinity College YOUR LEGS DUBLIN Ireland’s most prestigious univer- sity (%01-896 1000; www.tcd.ie; College Start/Finish Trinity College Green; h8am-10pm; gall city centre) is a Distance 4.9km masterpiece of architecture and land- Duration 3 hours scaping, and Dublin’s most attractive bit of historical real estate, beautifully Dublin’s most important attractions preserved in Georgian aspic. are concentrated on the south side of the Liffey, split between the older The Walk » From Trinity College, walk west medieval town dominated by the castle and the two cathedrals, and along Dame St and turn into Dublin Castle. the handsome 18th-century city that is a showcase of exquisite Georgian Chester Beatty Library aesthetics. The world-famous library (%01-407 Take this walk on Trips 0750; www.cbl.ie; Dublin Castle; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun year-round, mn closed Mon Nov-Feb, free tours 1pm Wed, 3pm & 4pm Sun; gall city centre), in the grounds of Dublin Castle, houses the collection of mining engineer Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (1875–1968). Spread over two floors, the breathtaking collection in- cludes more than 20,000 manuscripts, rare books, miniature paintings, clay tablets, costumes and other objects of historical and aesthetic importance. The Walk » Exit the castle and walk west; you’ll see Christ Church Cathedral directly in front of you. Christ Church Cathedral Its hilltop location and eye-catching flying buttresses make this the most photogenic by far of Dublin’s three cathedrals (Church of the Holy Trinity; www. christchurchcathedral.ie; Christ Church Pl; adult/student/child €6/4.50/2; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun year-round, longer hours Jun-Aug; g50, 50A, 56A from Aston Quay, 54, 54A from Burgh Quay) as well as one of the capital’s most recognisable sym- bols. It was founded in 1030 on what was then the southern edge of Dublin’s Viking settlement. The Normans re- built the lot in stone from 1172. The Walk » Go south along Nicholas St (which becomes New St); St Patrick’s is 400m along. St Patrick’s Cathedral Reputedly, it was at this cathedral (www.stpatrickscathedral.ie; St Patrick’s Close; 366

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Spain SPECTACULAR BEACHES, MOUNTAINTOP CASTLES, MEDIEVAL VILLAGES, STUNNING ARCHITECTURE and some of the most celebrated restaurants on the planet – Spain has an allure that few destinations can match. There’s much to see and do amid the enchanting landscapes that inspired Picasso and Velàzquez. You can spend your days feasting on seafood in coastal Galician towns, feel the heartbeat of Spain at soul-stirring flamenco shows or hike across the flower- strewn meadows of the mountains. The journeys in this region offer something for everyone: beach lovers, outdoor adventurers, family travellers, music fiends, foodies and those simply wanting to delve into Spain’s rich art and history. Costa del Sol Mijas ALEX TIHONOVS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spain ·/ GF ·//··/ /··/ ·/·/·/ ·/FGFG FG·//·P:oA#^rASCtRClRo^#aotíaaoinm^#ssortFu#]DoiBeaños^#rgruatraeoroOgoll^#aduaEPe:::srLnuABte8nuaçantc:rgaaaes2o#^sdde:9aOe :vZiAaeA5:::::2mdvoi:::Aol]#6]#éAr#^L6as:::::6e]#]#PóVa:GTnaloeilrj::::(lnór2ae6cnAd:::4RC^#iM6ao8eSAmBrB#]i::::l8rraiiaaT)edsBnydc::noAaotAou6dry6a2fr:::r#]a7engdl^#dNo:a#^Re1evsíer:EogAbD1Bar2ou3il#]e0:#^br3Pa1o:aoS]#m#^Le::SopbS2og::alA9oarr^#s1ionn5a:::tAñai^#Páo:::6n8 : : T/· /· /·/·FG/· ·/GF ·//·/·GF /··/ /·LISBLeAO#_ivrN1ei5aRi0r^#ímoo i:P#^lPeeFjO3soao:BÉ0R^#rr0veTotdH^#:^#kojUaeEmaulrmCldGBCeaeePSyAbahrglCiaaGaasPLve^#G#^rrálnriotnasqCedcrRezllueuooacfiaa^#oíz^#seslaoCdtooBL#]adNr:::::eduáadeaTdezANddPtaAGMe::ruDaaaiarSAr#^rztiMoNojécuaqbA:::olñcee#^la6c#]rurOrhnzPa6oatvieauenaaRd:lrC^#irnrlalO#]aqatáAlo:::eula6CcPdScAdFo2LeaiaereOerelorrR:rGerSo^#qcsAAe]#rseluun46oaaíP(sv::::6Ge2oatSsRiiSNC2Ll5ceidNdtlaTboo98aar:óreaFMalraar2gadauralttPmiu^#CjqueuedGtAm::leoinoturlen7)uoaAohMsaadatfiartall#^ebrvaTdmnodNcaRMSiioaAn3eé-NcdaraPíVi::lnotenn0aeneaaáeGrlRaddrtz(srlJuSq:3oúoraaMdRC(M]#o4uraraj#]2gaaedl7#^eEeié0a:::nlrAT9ueaDra6#^n4#_maodo49lI:::RmdTla)mNeAMREadaS4SSP4)dM::::REieaA2oeSPgRarA#]r7qgiuaD::::AreAuirraCRGrnNqRaeRsrl:auuEuaGAAbS(yIdN2eE(eA(DaNlaoeN2all2^#ma2mnn-lNaNmd1I1tf7eCcIst0uoec6ap1avaaer7rmea7VtaadAlzímaumBtadani7roe]#)llreáajíra)l)aaaarldlab#^scra,aaaAsrr3a0 ejo Río J ú ATLANTIC Río Sad o OCEAN Rí e# 0 0 r Mediterranean Meander 7 Days u Historic Castilla y León 7 Days Over 1000km of coastline Madrid to Soria via some of inland celebrating the ever-changing Spain’s captivating towns and Mediterranean. (p373) villages. (p415) s Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches v Roving La Rioja Wine Region 3–4 Days 2–4 Days More than touristy resorts on the Discover the wealth of the grape misunderstood southern coast. on this peaceful countryside drive. (p389) (p427) t Northern Spain Pilgrimage 5–7 Days Roads that crisscross the Camino de Santiago pilgrim route. (p399) 370

FRANCE Montpellier ]# Avignon ccRcRR #] : #^ Marseille #] Toulouse DON'T MISS 0¸#^ : MtH(P3ue3re5d5simcdoa) RN26(P03Ai4cnR0oe4tAd:moeN) DRO_#(dP3'iRE1c4asR3taAmts) BGeoalufedduec #] Perpignan Cabo de Gata :: A slice of arid coastline that the developers : :#] : LA VELLA forgot. Fortunately, it’s : now a natural park and :Zara:Eg7 oza: :: sports abundant flora and birdlife. Explore it :#^ : Lle:#]ida : /·: :#] Girona ron Trip R : :: Orchidarium : R:í Meander through Europe’s largest orchid ·/ /· GFA23 : collection, in the Costa : : :AP2 27 ^# B:arcelona del Sol beach town of o :Ebro: Tar:ragona sEstepona, on Trip Río : : #] Covarrubias /·AP7 VGaollefnocdiae Step behind the walls of El Maestrazgo Costa del this stunning riverside Azahar village and into another ]# Teruel world on Trip u T úria :#] Castellón de la Badia Plana (Castelló d'Alcúdia Wine Tasting de la Plana) #^ La Rioja is home to the best red wines in Spain – ^#Valencia Palma de bodegas, tours, tastings Mallorca and museums will ·/A7 inform as you consume /·AP7 : on Trip v :: :Ali:ca]#:nEt#]elchBeCloanstcaa #^ :Murcia MEDITESRERAANEAN :C#]ostCa:MMaraetnraogrena Cálida GMoalzfoardreón ALGERIA BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Gibraltar Upper Rock Nature Reserve 371

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INIGO CIA / GETTY IMAGES © Mediterranean 27Meander Follow the Mediterranean coast northeast out of Málaga and you’ll be contemplating far more than just beach umbrellas. Roman ruins, heavyweight art, and fabulous festivals also pepper this surprisingly cultural coastline. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS KmTarragona #1#2 7 DAYS # 1095 KM / 1095 km 680 MILES La Rambla Stretch your legs on GREAT FOR… one of Europe's finest boulevards BJ 726 km ##9 BEST TIME TO GO Ciudad de las Artes y # Xàtiva March to June is las Ciencias sunny, but not too hot, See Valencia's and and there are plenty Spain's new cutting edge of festivals, including in this futuristic complex Las Fallas. lL # Cartagena I ESSENTIAL ##1 PHOTO # Mojácar The chameleonic ##4 Sagrada Familia changes every time Museo Picasso Málaga Cabo de Gata you visit. Admire the greatest Precious enclave of pure 20th-century master in unblemished K BEST FOR the city of his birth Mediterranean coastline OUTDOORS 1 km 254 km Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Nijar. Barcelona Sagrada Familia 373

: ::: ::::: :: #\\ Zamora : #^: : ]# : : #\\:Vall:adolid : Tor:desill:as : GF /· /·#\\ 30 A62 A6 #] Salamanca Segovia #\\ #\\ 27 Mediterranean Pico de Ávila \\# Meander Almanzor Arenas de From the Costa Daurada to the Costa del Sol, from (2592m) R #\\San Pedro Plasencia : /·NV #\\ : Toledo ]# \\# Navalmoral de la Mata Catalan pride in Sitges to Andalucian passion in : Almería, from the Roman ruins of Tarragona to the : : Modernisme buildings of Barcelona: this drive #\\pr]#o:ves : : Río Zujar : :: :#\\ that not all southern Spain is a beach bucket of ::: Don Almadén ::: Benito #\\ #\\ cheesy tourist clichés. The full 1095km trajectory Peñarroya- PuertollanoRío Jándula passes through four regions; two languages; Spain’s Pueblonuevo \\# #\\ Pozoblanco Parque Natural stoeoconnudm-,etrhouirsd-toancodusnitx.th- largest cities; and beaches lLTRIP HIGHLIGHT R #\\ Sierra Norte Córdoba \\# de Sevilla 1 Málaga #^ The Costa del Sol can #\\ Lora del Río #^ OÉscu#\\injaaLucenLa(1#o\\3b8a0Rtmejo) GFseem wholly soulless #\\ \\# #\\ Loja Antequera #\\ #\\ #^ #\\ #\\ : #^Seville #\\ #\\ : #\\ : becoming an art heavy- : : Arahal weight to rival Madrid or : Olvera #\\ #\\ Barcelona. Recent gallery openings include the :: ]# \\# modernist Centre Pom- pidou and the evocative Arcos Ronda ##^1 #\\ de la /·#\\ A7 Málaga Frontera #\\27 Fuengirola Costa del Sol until you fall gasping for Museo Ruso de Málaga Tarifa #^ Gibraltar a shred of culture into (www.coleccionmuseoruso.es; #\\ Málaga, an unmistakably Avenida de Sor Teresa Plat 15; Spanish metropolis curi- adult/child €8/free; h11am- area near the port with ously ignored by the lion’s 10pm Tue-Sun; p). They giant murals and groovy share of the millions of join over 20 established cafes. tourists who land annu- art nooks anchored by ally at Pablo Ruíz Picasso the distinguished Museo 5 4 p386 International Airport. Picasso Málaga (www. The Drive » Head east out museopicassomalaga.org; Calle Málaga is currently of Málaga on the A7 motorway on the crest of a wave San Agustín 8; admission €7; towards Almería. This is and is a great place to southern Spain’s epic coastal begin this epic 1000km- 10am-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to road (also known as European plus drive. The city that 9pm Fri & Sat) Moving with route 15 or E15) and will be until 2003 lacked even a the times, Málaga is also your companion for much of museum to its legendary developing its own arts this trip. The coast gets ever native son, Picasso, is district, Soho, transform- ing a former rundown

: ::: : : :::::::: : #\\ \\# : : :::::: /· Km::Pa:rqu::\\#eAd:eraRDníudoeaDroue#\\rCoalata#]ñSazoorria : : Manresa : : ::: : Ll:eida : #\\ Toss:a de Mar #\\ Río Jalón A23 : #^ Z:arag:oza : : #]: I:gualada \\# : : : AP:2 : : Vilafranca : del Penedès \\# ·/ #Natural : # #Idel Hoz NII : R:ío Eb:ro: : 1#^2 Barcelona ·/ ·/ ·/ #\\# N1 #\\1#\\1 Sitges p442 : :: :Alcañ:iz #\\ Reus \\# #]10 : AP7 Tarragona Tortosa Deltebre \\# GF H#:30 : :#] Guadalajara :M::A_#D:R::\\#IAD:rga:nd\\#a Pastrana car Amposta \\# #\\ #\\ Riumar p381 VGaollefnocdiae \\# Sant Carles Teruel ]# de la Ràpita \\# RíoJú Peñíscola Río Cab riel : : de:l Rey #] Cuenca Benicàs:sim SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander \\# \\# A:ranjuez : /·:]# Castellón de la Plana :: AP7 ]#: /·N4 #\\ Sagunto Inca ##^9 Valencia Palma de #\\ #\\ Mallorca \\# Consuegra Alcázar de #^ \\# #\\ San Juan Tomelloso \\# Villarrobledo Alginet \\# \\#Sueca Manzanares #\\ ##\\ #\\ Albacete Xàtiva \\# Tabernes de Valldigna Munera ^# \\#8 \\# Gandia Ontinyent#\\ #\\ Denia : \\# Ibiza \\# ·/ /· /· ·/ H###\\ A30 Valdepeñas Y:ecla \\# \\# Alcoy ándula A32 Jumilla #\\ El:da \\# \\# Ibi #\\ Benidorm A4 Parque Natural :Elch:e]# #]7 Alicante MEDITERRANEAN Sierras de Cazorla, SEA \\# Bailén Segura y las Villas Orihuela : Jódar : Murcia ^# #\\ : p380 \\# Espuña R #^ Jaén Huéscar (1585m) A30 #\\ San Pedro del Pinatar \\# Mazarrón \\# Los Alcázares #B(2á2Sr7ba1namrtaa)RB#\\aza \\# 6]# \\# La Unión ·/Granada Puerto #\\ Lumbreras #\\Águilas Cartagena AP7 #^ Parque Natural \\#5 Mojácar # ·/ # # #A#\\2l#\\muSñieércraaNr#\\eAvalAmd7aerí#^3a Níj#\\ar4PdaerCqaubeoNdaetural Adra Gata-Níjar San José e# 0 200 km 0 100 miles more precipitous as you enter LINK u Historic Granada province. After 68km YOUR Castilla y León turn south on the N340 and TRIP follow it for 8km into Almuñécar. From Barcelona it’s r Costa del Sol nearly six hours west 2 Almuñécar Beyond the to Madrid, but you’ll Beaches encounter some of Granada province’s Spain’s most captivating cliff-lined, 80km-long Can’t get enough of historic towns and coast has a hint of Italy’s the Mediterranean? villages. Amalfi about it, although Jump onto this trip in it is definitively Spanish Málaga and head all the way down the coast to Gibraltar. 375

SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander when you get down to 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am- savvy travellers head for the nitty-gritty. Its warm 1pm Sun) at the top of Almería’s equally hefty climate – there’s no real a hill overlooking the Alcazaba fortress, which winter to speak of – lends sea, with fine views and lords it over a city that it the name, Costa Tropical. another cleverly curated once served as chief sea The region’s unofficial museum. outlet for the 10th-century capital is Almuñécar, Córdoba caliphate. a fiercely traditional The Drive » After 20 years town that’s a little rough Almería’s old Moorish around the edges, but in the making, the final links quarter that lies in the very relaxed. of the A7 around Motril and skirts of the Alcazaba Salobreña were established hill hasn’t been spruced Dedicated to beach in 2015 after many delays. up for the tourist hordes, fun, Almuñécar’s The autopista (toll way) takes meaning it is scruffy, but seafront is divided by a drivers around the north of very real. Get Moor- rocky outcrop, the Peñón Motril, bypassing the older ishly acquainted in the del Santo, with pebbly N340 in the south. As the Alcazaba (Calle Almanzor; Playa de San Cristóbal landscape gets more arid h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sat Apr– stretching to its west, you’ll spy increasing numbers mid-Jun, to 3.30pm Tue-Sat and Playa Puerta del Mar of commercial greenhouses mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 5.30pm to the east backed by a punctuating the coastal Tue-Sat mid-Sep–Mar, to strip of cool cafes. landscape. Almería beckons. 3.30pm Sun all year), or the Distance from Almuñécar to The Museo Arque- Almería is 139km. Hammam Aire de ológico (Calle San Joaquín; Almería (www.aire- adult/child €2.35/1.60; 3 Almería dealmeria.com; Plaza de la Constitución 5; 1½hr session h10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm Don’t underestimate incl 15min aromatherapy €23; Tue-Sat, 10.30am-1pm Sun) in sun-baked Almería, a h10am-10pm), a sanitised the maze of the old town tough waterside city modern-day version of a highlights Almuñécar’s with an illustrious Arabic bathhouse. The ancient Phoenician history and a handful city’s latest sight is the roots. Tickets include of important historical fantastic Museo de la entry to the Castillo monuments to prove it. Guitarra (%950 27 43 58; de San Miguel (Santa While the queues bulge Ronda del Beato Diego Ventaja; Adela Explanada; adult/child outside Granada’s Al- admission €3; h10.30am- hambra, mere trickles of 1.30pm Tue-Sun, 6-9pm Fri €2.35/1.60; h10am-1.30pm & & Sat Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm Tue-Sun, 5-8pm Fri & Sat Oct- TOP TIP: May), which documents TOLL ROADS Almeria’s understated role in the development The AP7 (also known as E15), is a toll-charging of the iconic instrument. autopista (motorway) that parallels much of Spain’s southern coastline. You will have to stop periodically 5 p386 to pay a toll at manned booths. The total cost for the route highlighted here will be in the vicinity of €57. The Drive » Head east out of The confusingly named A7 follows a similar route to the AP7, but is toll-free. The N340 is a third road Almería on the N344. Cross the paralleling Spain’s southern coast, although these Río Andarax and pass the airport days much of it has merged with the A7. Some of the on your right. Fork right onto the N340 follows the route of the Roman Vía Augustus. ALP202 and at a T-junction turn right. Follow the road (AL3108) through low hills into the village of San José (total distance 40km). 376

THE PICASSO TRAIL SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander Málaga and Barcelona are linked by more than Mediterranean beaches – both cities have strong Picasso connections. The great Andalucían painter was born in Málaga in 1881 and lived there until he was 10, while Barcelona served as his inspiration and muse in the late 1890s and early 1900s when he intermittently resided in the Catalan capital. As a result, the start and finish points of this trip stand as important way-stations in Picasso’s illustrious career and are loaded with plenty of art and artefacts to investigate. Málaga guards the painter’s birth house, the diminutive Casa Natal de Picasso (www.fundacionpicasso.malaga.eu; Plaza de la Merced 15; admission €3; h9.30am-8pm), which includes a replica of his father’s erstwhile studio. Nearby, and run by the same foundation, is the Museo Picasso Málaga (%902 44 33 77; www.museopicassomalaga. org; Calle San Agustín 8; admission €7, incl temporary exhibition €10; h10am-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat), which opened in 2003. Barcelona hosts the Museu Picasso (%93 256 30 00; www.museupicasso.bcn.cat; Carrer de Montcada 15-23; adult/child €14/free, temporary exhibitions adult/child €6.50/free, 3-8pm Sun & 1st Sun of month free; hTue, Wed & Fri-Sun 9am- 7pm, to 9.30pm Thu; mJaume I), which, with over 4000 exhibits, has one of the most complete Picasso collections in the world. On a more modest scale, but also worth perusing as you pass through, is Alicante’s Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MACA; www.maca-alicante.es; Plaza Santa María 3; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) displaying Picasso’s Portrait d’Arthur Rimbaud (1960); and the Museu Cau Ferrat (www.museusdesitges.cat; Carrer de Fonollar) in Sitges, encased in the house of Picasso’s friend, the late artist Santiago Rusiñol. 4 Cabo de Gata ing villages (remember in San José offers a full them?) remain low-key. range of courses. If you can find anyone old enough to remember A good nexus is San The Drive » Follow the the Costa del Sol before José, with its secluded the bulldozers arrived, beaches, including Playa AL3108 inland from San José they’d probably say it de los Genoveses just until you hit the A7 autovia looked a bit like Cabo southwest of the village. (highway) just shy of Nijar. Head de Gata. Some of Spain’s Footpaths run along the northeast towards Valencia for most beautiful and coast in either direction, 43km until the exit for A370, least-crowded beaches criss-crossing the pro- signposted Mojácar. are strung between the tected Parque Natural grand cliffs and capes de Cabo de Gata-Nijar. 5 Mojácar east of Almería City, They’re good for a short where dark volcanic hills tentative stroll or a Tucked away in an tumble into a sparkling full-blown multiday ex- isolated corner of one of turquoise sea. cursion. The area is also Spain’s most traditional one of the best places regions Mojácar was Though Cabo de Gata in Andalucía for diving. almost abandoned in the is not undiscovered, it Isub (%950 38 00 04; www. mid-20th century until a still has a wild, elemental isubsanjose.com; Calle Babor foresighted local mayor feel and its scattered fish- started luring artists and 8; h8.30am-2pm & 4-7.30pm others with giveaway property offers. Although Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun Mar-Dec) 377

IMAGE BY CHRIS WINSOR / GETTY IMAGES © CALLE MONTES / GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP BRENDAN SAINSBURY, AUTHOR Growing up, I always imagined Spain’s southern coast to be full of raucous resorts plying 18 to 30 holidays. When I eventually visited, I found that, in between the ‘Benidorms’, there was as much culture as after-hours cacophony. Where else can you find a city more innately Spanish than Málaga, a coast more unsullied than Cabo de Gata, or a Roman amphitheater more thrillingly sited than Tarragona’s? Top: Outdoor dining in Málaga Left: Tarragona’s Roman amphitheatre Right: Cabo de Gata

SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meanderthe tourists have arrived, Mojácar has retained its UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP / GETTY IMAGES © essence. There are actually two towns here: old Mojácar Pueblo, a jumble of white, cube-shaped houses on a hilltop 2km inland, and Mojácar Playa, a modern beach resort. Exploring Mojácar Pueblo is mainly a mat- ter of wandering the mazelike streets, with their bougainvillea- swathed balconies, stopping off at craft shops, galleries and boutiques. El Mirador del Castillo, at the top-most point, has a cafe-bar and magnificent views. The fortress-style Iglesia de Santa María (Calle Iglesia) dates from 1560 and may have once been a mosque. South of Mojácar Playa, the beaches are quieter, and once you get to the fringes of town, there are a number of more secluded areas. 4 p386 The Drive » Retrace your steps from Mojácar back to the A7 autovia. After 10km merge onto the AP7 near Vera. This is a toll road. Continue until the exit for Cartagena Oeste. At the roundabout take the N332 into the city. Mojácar to Cartagena is 134km. 6 Cartagena Cartagena’s fabulous natural harbour has been used for thousands of years. Stand on the 379

SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander battlements of the castle to 3pm Sun) has lots of 7 Alicante that overlooks this city old pots, flashy lights, and you can literally buttons to press, films Of all Spain’s mainland see layer upon layer of to watch and a replica provincial capitals, history spread below you, Phoenician trading ship, Alicante is the most from Phoenician traders while the super Museo influenced by tourism, through Roman legionar- del Teatro Romano (www. thanks to the nearby ies, Islamic architects teatroromanocartagena.org; airport and resorts. and the armies of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento 9; Nevertheless, this is Christian Reconquista adult/child €6/5; h10am- a dynamic, attractive to the factories of the 6pm or 8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Spanish city with a industrial age. Sun) transports visitors castle, old quarter and via escalators and an long waterfront. The As archaeologists con- underground passage to eating scene is exciting tinue to reveal a long- a magnificent, recently and the nightlife is abso- buried, and fascinating, restored Roman theatre lutely legendary, whether Roman and Carthagin- dating from the 1st you’re chugging pints ian heritage, the city century BC. with the stag parties at is finally starting to 7pm or twirling on the get the recognition it 5 p386 dance floor with the deserves. The Museo locals seven hours later. The Drive » Get back on the Nacional de Arqueología There are sweeping Subacuática (Arqua; AP7 towards Alicante (more views over the city from http://museoarqua.mcu. tolls!). After 75km the autovia the large 16th-century es; Paseo del Muelle Alfonso rejoins the (free) A7. Follow it XII 22; adult/child €3/free; for 32km before taking exit 17A Castillo de Santa Bár- h10am-8pm or 9pm Tue-Sat, signposted Alicante. bara (adult/child €3/1.50; DETOUR: ORIHUELA Start: 6 Cartagena (p379) Beside the Río Segura and flush with the base of a barren mountain of rock, the historical heart of Orihuela, with superb Gothic, Renaissance and, especially, baroque buildings, well merits a detour. The old town is strung out between the river and a mountain topped by a ruined castle. The main sights are dotted along it, more or less in a line. A few of the buildings are particularly worth looking out for. The Convento de Santo Domingo (Calle Adolfo Claravana; admission €2; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm or 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) is a 16th-century convent with two fine Renaissance cloisters and a refectory clad in 18th-century tilework. One of the town’s splendid ecclesiastical buildings is the 14th-century Catalan Gothic Catedral de San Salvador (Calle Doctor Sarget; h10.30am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat), with its three finely carved portals and a lovely little cloister. The Renaissance facade of Iglesia de las Santas Justa y Rufina (Plaza Salesas 1; h10am-1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri) is worth admiring, and its Gothic tower is graced with gargoyles. Orihuela is between the Cartagena and Alicante stops on this trip. To reach it branch west off the AP7 onto the CV91 around 70km north of Cartagena. 380

DETOUR: SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander DELTA DE L’ERBE Start: 9 Valencia (p382) The delta of the Río Ebre, formed by silt brought down by the river, sticks out 20km into the Mediterranean near Catalonia’s southern border. Dotted with reedy lagoons and fringed by dune-backed beaches, this completely flat and exposed wetland, with Parc Natural Delta de l’Ebre comprising 77 sq km, is northern Spain’s most important waterbird habitat. The migration season (October and November) sees the bird population peak, but they are also numerous in winter and spring. Even if you’re not a twitcher, a visit here is worthwhile for the surreal landscapes alone. Tiny whitewashed farmhouses seem to float on little islands among green and brown paddy fields which stretch to the horizon. It’s completely unlike anywhere else in Catalonia. The scruffy, sprawling town of Deltebre is at the centre of the delta but push on from here to smaller villages such as Riumar, the coastal village at the delta’s easternmost point, or Poblenou del Delta. To reach Deltebre, branch off AP7 at exit 41, 180km north of Valencia. The town lies 13km to the east along TV3454. h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, north, passing through a famous as the birthplace to 8pm Oct-Mar), which couple of tunnels and heading of the Borgia Popes Ca- also houses a museum progressively downhill as lixtus III and Alexander recounting the history it forges an inland route to VI. The town’s glory of Alicante. If you’re not Valencia. After 106km exit on days ended in 1707 when up for the steep climb, the CV645 signposted Xàtiva. Felipe V’s troops torched the city has a couple of It’s 5km to the town itself. most of the town. good free museums. The Museo de Arte Contem- 8 Xàtiva What’s interesting in poráneo de Alicante Xàtiva lies south and (p377) displays Dalí, Xàtiva (Spanish: Játiva) uphill from the Alameda, Miró and Picasso, among is often visited on an including the castle others. The Museu de easy and rewarding (adult/child €2.40/1.20; Fogueres (Museo de las 50km day trip from Va- Hogueras; Rambla de Méndez lencia or – in this case – h10am-6pm or 7pm Tue-Sun), Núñez 29; h10am-2pm & as a stop on the way which clasps to the sum- 5-8pm or 6-9pm Tue-Sat) has north from Alicante. It mit of a double-peaked photos, costumes and has a small historic quar- hill overlooking the old an audiovisual presenta- ter and a mighty castle town. Today, behind its tion of the Fiesta de Sant strung along the crest crumbling battlements Joan. of the Serra Vernissa, you’ll find a mixture of at whose base the town flower gardens (bring 5 p386 snuggles. a picnic), tumbledown turrets and towers, and The Drive » Leave Alicante The Muslims estab- an excellent museum on lished Europe’s first pa- medieval life. The walk on the A77 signposted Valencia. per manufacturing plant up to the castle is a long After 10km merge onto the in Xàtiva, which is also one, but the views are A7. The autovia proceeds sensational. 381

OSCAR SÁNCHEZ PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©The Drive » Use N340 to veg farmland La Huerta, is famous as the home of SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander rejoin the A7 and head north to rice dishes such as pa- Valencia. Just outside the city ella, but its buzzy dining when the A7 merges with the scene offers plenty more Spain, its maze of narrow AP7, take the V31, Valencia’s besides. cobbled streets encir- main southern access road cled by steep walls and for the final 18km into the city 5 4 p387 crowned with a splendid centre. Catedral (www.catedralde- The Drive » Leave Valencia on tarragona.com; Plaça de la Seu; TRIP HIGHLIGHT the V21 signposted Puçol. After adult/child €5/3; h10am- 9 Valencia 23km you’ll rejoin your reliable old friend, the AP7. Get your 7pm Mon-Sat mid-Mar–Oct, Spain’s third-largest city toll money ready! The AP7 is is a magnificent place, your route for the next 200km, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm content for Madrid taking you into Catalonia. Take Sat Nov–mid-Mar). A lively and Barcelona to grab exit 38 and get on the A7 for eating and drinking the headlines while it the final 35km of the route into scene makes for an entic- gets on with being a Tarragona. ing stop. wonderfully liveable city with thriving cultural, a Tarragona eating and nightlife scenes. Never afraid to The eternally sunny innovate, Valencia has port city of Tarragona diverted its flood-prone is an improbable mix of river to the outskirts Mediterranean beach of town and converted life, Roman history and the former riverbed medieval alleyways. As into a wonderful green Spain’s second-most ribbon of park winding important Roman site, right through the city. Tarragona has a wealth On it are the strikingly of ruins, including a futuristic buildings of seaside amphitheatre the Ciudad de las Artes where gladiators once y las Ciencias (City of hacked away at each Arts & Sciences; www.cac. other (or wild animals) to es; combined ticket for Ocean- the death. ogràfic, Hemisfèric & Museo de las Ciencias Príncipe Felipe The Unesco-listed Ro- adult/child €36.25/27.55), man sites are scattered designed by local-boy- around town. Entrance made-good Santiago tickets can be acquired Calatrava. Other brilliant at the Museu d’Historia contemporary buildings de Tarragona (MHT; www. grace the city, which also museutgn.com; adult/child has a fistful of fabulous per site €3.30/free, all sites Modernista architecture, €11.05/free; hsites 9am- great museums and a 9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun large, characterful old Easter-Sep, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, quarter. 10am-3pm Sun Oct-Easter). Valencia, surrounded The town’s medieval by the fertile fruit-and- heart is one of the most beautifully designed in 382

Sitges A seaside resort with great nightlife 5 4 p387 beach-resort town has the beaches are long and The Drive » From Tarragona been a favourite with sandy, the tapas bars upper-class Catalans prolific and the Carnaval use the N240 to get back onto since the late 19th bacchanalian. AP7 and head east towards century, as well as a key Barcelona. After 23km take exit location for the bur- The main beach is 31 onto the C32. Follow this road geoning Modernisme flanked by the attractive for 31km, crossing one viaduct movement which paved seafront Passeig Maritim, and burrowing through two the way for the likes of dotted with chiringuitos tunnels, to Sitges. Picasso. A famous gay (beachside bars) and di- destination, in July and vided into nine sections b Sitges August Sitges turns into with different names by a one big beach party with series of breakwaters. This lovely fishing- a nightlife to rival Ibiza; village-turned-pumping- The art highlight is the recently refurbished 383

SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander Museu Cau Ferrat colossus to rival Paris or 261-265; adult/student/child (p377), built in the Rome, let alone Madrid. 1890s as a house-cum- Take our ‘stretch your €20.50/16.50/10.25; h9am- studio by artist Santiago legs’ walk (p442) to Rusiñol – a pioneer of bag some of its many 8pm Mar-Oct, to 6.30pm the Modernista move- highlights. The city’s Nov-Feb; mDiagonal) with ment. The whitewashed ever-evolving symbol is its rooftop chimney pots mansion is full of his Gaudí’s one-of-a-kind and statues of medieval own art and that of his Sagrada Familia (%93 207 knights. History lurks contemporaries, includ- 30 31; www.sagradafamilia. in the Barri Gótic, home ing his friend Picasso, to La Catedral (%93 342 as well as a couple of El cat; Carrer de Mallorca 401; 82 62; www.catedralbcn.org; Grecos. adult/child under 11yr/senior Plaça de la Seu; admission free, The Drive » It’s only 40km & student €14.80/free/12.80; special visit €6, choir admis- to Barcelona! Get back onto the C32 and pay your last cursed h9am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm sion €2.80; h8am-12.45pm & toll. Fly through a multitude of Oct-Mar; mSagrada Família), tunnels. After 30km of driving, which rises like an un- 5.15-7.30pm Mon-Sat, special take exit 168 and follow the finished symphony over signs for Barcelona, Gran Via L’Eixample district. The visit 1-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun and Centre Ciutat. surounding grid is well & holidays; mJaume I), while known for the whimsical the modern hip crowd TRIP HIGHLIGHT waves of Modernisme congregate in the Born, a architecture, a style ex- subneighbourhood of La c Barcelona pounded most eleoquent- Ribera quarter. ly in La Pedrera (Casa Milà; Barcelona is a guidebook %90 220 21 38; www.lapedrera. A good orientation in itself and a cultural point in this complex com; Carrer de Provença city is the legendary (and much copied) La Rambla (mCatalunya, Liceu or Drassanes), a tree-lined LEGACY OF THE ROMANS What did the Romans ever do for us? Well, quite a lot actually, an assertion that rapidly gains validity as you drive northeast up the Mediterranean coast of Spain. The Roman colonies in Hispania (their name for the Iberian peninsula) lasted from around 400BC to 200BC and reminders of their existence are spread all along the coast from Andalucía up to Catalonia. The three main stops for Roma- philes are Málaga, Cartagena and Tarragona, all once flourishing Roman cities whose pasts equal or outweigh their present profiles in modern Spain. Málaga’s Roman amphitheatre (%951 50 11 15; Calle Alcazabilla 8), nestled beneath its Alcazaba, was rediscovered in 1951 and dates from the 1st century AD when the settlement was called Malaca. An adjacent interpretive centre has touch screens and displays artefacts dug up from the site. Cartagena (Carthago Nova to the Romans) has multiple Roman sights including villas, a theatre and parts of an old wall. The history is all pulled together at the new-ish Museo del Teatro Romano (p380), where you can buy a museum pass for all the sights. Tarragona (Tarraco) was once capital of Rome’s Spanish provinces and has ruins to prove it, including an amphitheatre, a forum, street foundations and the Aqüeducte Romà (Pont del Diable; admission free; h9am-dusk), a glorious two-tiered aqueduct. Wonderful ocean-themed mosaics can be seen in the nearby Museu Nacional Arqueològic de Tarragona (www.mnat.cat; Plaça del Rei 5; adult/child €2.40/free; h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun). 384

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander FESTIVALS If you’re undertaking this trip in February, March or August, look out for the following festivals. Feria de Malaga (hmid-Aug) Málaga’s nine-day feria (fair), launched by a huge fireworks display, is the most ebullient of Andalucía’s summer ferias. It resembles a mad Rio-style street party with plenty of flamenco and fino (sherry); head for the city centre to be in the thick of it. At night, festivities switch to large fairgrounds and nightly rock and flamenco shows at Cortijo de Torres, 3km southwest of the city centre; special buses run from all over the city. Las Fallas de San José (www.fallas.es; hMarch) The exuberant, anarchic swirl of Las Fallas de San José – fireworks, music, festive bonfires and all-night partying – is a must if you’re visiting the city of Valencia in mid-March. The fallas themselves are huge sculptures of papier mâché on wood built by teams of local artists. Each neighbourhood sponsors its own falla. Sitges Carnaval (www.sitges.com/carnaval) Carnaval in Sitges is a week-long booze- soaked riot made just for the extroverted and exhibitionist, complete with masked balls and capped by extravagant gay parades held on the Sunday and the Tuesday night, featuring flamboyantly dressed drag queens, giant sound systems and a wild all-night party with bars staying open until dawn. Held in February/March; dates change from year to year. pedestrian promenade Ribera from El Raval. and gardens of Montjuic, which was made with the To the northeast lies the site of the 1992 Olympics. evening paseo (stroll) in Modernisme-inspired mind. La Rambla divides L’Eixample quarter; to the 5 4 p387 the Barri Gòtic and La south are the steep parks 385

Eating & Sleeping SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander Málaga 1 Mojácar 5 5 El Mesón de Tapas, Argentinian €€ 4 Hostal El Olívar Hostal € Cervantes (%950 47 20 02; www.hostalelolivar.es; Calle (%952 21 62 74; www.elmesondecervantes.com; Estación Nueva 11, Mojácar Pueblo; s/d incl Calle Álamos 11; mains €13-16; h7pm-midnight breakfast €38/59; aiW) A stylish and Wed-Mon) Cervantes started as a humble tapas welcoming addition to the Mojácar Pueblo bar run by expat Argentinian Gabriel Spatz (the options, the Olívar has contemporary, pretty original bar is still operating around the corner), rooms with up-to-date bathrooms and tea/ but has expanded into plush spacious digs with coffee sets. Some overlook a plaza, others the an open kitchen, fantastic family-style service countryside. Breakfast is generous and you and incredible meat dishes. can take it on a panoramic terrace, when the 4 Molina Lario Hotel €€ weather is decent. (%952 06 20 02; www.hotelmolinalario.com; Cartagena 6 Calle Molina Lario 20-22; r €116-130; aWs) Perfect for romancing couples, this hotel 5 Techos Bajos Seafood €€ has a sophisticated contemporary feel with spacious rooms decorated in a cool palette (www.techosbajos.com; Calle Joaquín Madrid; of earthy colours. There are crisp white dishes €7-16; h9.30am-4pm Tue-Sun, plus 7pm- linens, marshmallow-soft pillows and tasteful midnight Fri & Sat) Locals absolutely flood this paintings, plus a fabulous rooftop terrace and large, no-frills kind of place at lunchtime for its pool with views to the sea. Situated within well-priced portions of fresh fish and seafood. confessional distance of the cathedral. You’ll find it down the hill from the bus station, right opposite the fishing port. Almería 3 Alicante 7 5 Casa Puga Tapas € 5 Cervecería Sento Tapas € (www.barcasapuga.es; Calle Jovellanos 7; wine & tapa €2.80; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon- (Calle Teniente Coronel Chápuli 1; tapas €2-8; Sat, closed Wed evening) The undisputed tapas h10am-5pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Superb, champ (since it opened in 1870) is Casa Puga; quality montaditos (little rolls) and grilled make it an early stop, as it fills up fast. Shelves things are the reason to squeeze into this of ancient wine bottles, and walls plastered with brilliant little bar. Watching the nonstop staff everything from lottery tickets to ancient maps, in action is quite an experience too. They’ve are the backdrop for a tiny cooking station that got a bigger branch nearby, but this has the churns out saucers of tasty stews and griddled atmosphere. meats, fish, mushrooms and shrimps. 386

Valencia 9 Barcelona c 5 Delicat Tapas, Fusion €€ 5 Quimet i Quimet Tapas €€ (%963 92 33 57; Calle Conde Almodóvar 4; (%93 442 31 42; Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25; mains €9-14; h1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue- tapas €4-11; hnoon-4pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat, 1-4pm Sun) At this particularly friendly, noon-4pm Sat & Sun; mParal·lel) Quimet i intimate option (there are only nine tables, plus Quimet is a family-run business that has been the terrace in summer), Catina, up front, and passed down from generation to generation. her partner, Paco, on full view in the kitchen, There’s barely space to swing a calamar (squid) offer an unbeatable-value, five-course menu in this bottle-lined, standing-room-only place, SPAIN 27 Mediterranean Meander of samplers for lunch and a range of truly but it is a treat for the palate, with montaditos innovative tapas anytime. made to order. Let the folk behind the bar advise 4 Caro Hotel Hotel €€€ you, and order a drop of fine wine to accompany (%963 05 90 00; www.carohotel.com; Calle the food. Almirante 14; r €143-214; paW) Housed in 5 Tapas 24 Tapas €€ a sumptuous 19th-century mansion, this sits (%93 488 09 77; www.carlesabellan.com; Carrer atop some 2000 years of Valencian history, with de la Diputació 269; tapas €4-9; h9am-midnight restoration revealing a hefty hunk of the Arab Mon-Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia) Carles Abellan, wall, Roman column bases and Gothic arches. master of Comerç 24 in La Ribera, runs this Each room is furnished in soothing dark shades, basement tapas haven known for its gourmet has a great king-sized bed, and varnished versions of old faves. Specials include the bikini cement floors. Bathrooms are tops. For that (toasted ham and cheese sandwich – here very special occasion, reserve the 1st-floor the ham is cured and the truffle makes all the grand suite, once the ballroom. Savour, too, its difference) and a thick black arròs negre de sípia excellent restaurant Alma del Temple. (squid-ink black rice). 4 Five Rooms Boutique Hotel €€ Tarragona a (%93 342 78 80; www.thefiverooms.com; Carrer 5 AQ Catalan €€ de Pau Claris 72; s/d from €155/165; aiW; mUrquinaona) Like they say, there are five (%977 21 59 54; www.aq-restaurant.com; rooms (standard rooms and suites) in this Carrer de les Coques 7; degustation €40-50; 1st-floor flat virtually on the border between h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sat) This is a L’Eixample and the old centre of town. Each bubbly designer haunt alongside the cathedral is different and features include broad, firm with stark colour contrasts (black, lemon and beds, stretches of exposed brick wall, mosaic cream linen), slick lines and intriguing plays on tiles and minimalist decor. There are also two traditional cooking. One of the two degustation apartments. menus is the way to go here, or the weekday 4 DO Boutique Hotel €€€ lunch menú for €18. (%93 481 36 66; www.hoteldoreial.com; 4 Hotel Plaça de la Font Hotel €€ Plaça Reial 1; s/d from €230/280; aWs; (%977 24 61 34; www.hotelpdelafont.com; Plaça mLiceu) Overlooking the magnificent plaza for de la Font 26; s/d €55/75; aW) Comfortable which it is named, this 18-room property has modern rooms, with photos of Tarragona handsomely designed rooms, set with beamed monuments above the bed, overlook a bustling ceilings, wide plank floors and all-important terrace in a you-can’t-get-more-central-than- soundproofing. The service is excellent, and the this location, right on the popular Plaça de facilities extensive, with roof terrace (with bar la Font. The ones at the front are pretty well in summer), dipping pool, solarium and spa. Its soundproofed and have tiny balconies for excellent market-to-table restaurants draw in people-watching. visiting foodies. 387

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HOLGER LEUE / GETTY IMAGES © Costa del Sol Beyond the 28Beaches This coast-hugging trip travels via a sparkling tiara of holiday resorts, as well as some little known gems and a diamond of a capital: Málaga. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 3–4 DAYS 195 KM / 121 MILES 77 km 58 km GREAT FOR… Torremolinos Málaga Dine on fresh seafood Get high on culture at H in La Carihuela Málaga’s superb museums BEST TIME TO GO ##2 Ll Visit from March to ##3 June or September # Nerja to November, when # temperatures are ##6 cooler and traffic less. Fuengirola # I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Estepona The old town in Km# Gibraltar Marbella, especially when the bougainvillea Marbella is in bloom. Explore Marbella’s picturesque historic K BEST FOR centre FAMILIES 118 km Beaches, theme parks and the Andalucian mentality (everyone loves kids), makes this a super-family-friendly trip. 389 Málaga

Costa del Sol 28 Beyond the Beaches This drive, running from Nerja in the east to Gibraltar in the west, travels via a landscape that constantly shifts and changes: from orchards of subtropical fruit trees to shimmering white urbanisations; a culture-loving metropolis to the cobbled backstreets of a former fishing village. Be prepared for a journey that constantly challenges any preconceived ideas you may have about this, Spain’s most famous, tourist-driven coast. #\\ \\# \\# #\\ 0¸ GF 0¸A376 ‚ 286 km to 33 A92 Campillos R Peña de los #\\ #\\ Bobadilla Almargen Enamorados #\\ Olvera N342 \\# ¸0#\\Coripe Teba#\\ Embalse del Antequera \\# (880m) Conde del E(l13T3o6rcma)lR /· 0¸Villamartín c \\# Algodonales Setenil de las Guadalhorce #\\ Valle de A45 A356 #\\ Riogordo \\# \\# #\\Bodegas El Ardales #\\ Abdalajis Palomas \\# 0¸Embalse ¸0de Bornos Comarés El Torreón dEemZabhaalsrea A343 Casabermeja#\\ Parque (1654m) A357 Natural c Puerta de las \\# Grazalema H#El Bosque \\# R c Montes de Burgo #\\ Álora #\\ p392 Málaga Puerto del #\\ Yunquera #\\ Pizarra T(o1r9r1e8cmill)a #\\ #\\ Alozaina Cártama Benajarafe Boyar Benaoján\\# Ronda Málaga ¸0 ¸0 # ·/ # ## #/·#El(E8P(18lRi0c2A9aRmlc1jlamJih#\\)biomFL)eraeUoACNSnnbAlacaat3rPoet3uiduaq3rrcr1nearueqa#\\oedulcLae#\\aloessCasa#\\#\\rGedCFsreaoou#\\rlnatcetíensErAas3t69eBpeo#\\7nnahaaPvíaSsriA#\\qe7NrureiaeMRNv\\#deaeIasst#\\rltu#\\aPBábrsuanaeenll#\\rlú#\\a6tTsoo#\\loOxjenCCo\\#MoíMnisjaitj#\\asa#\\\\#sLdEAaell\\#5hGCM\\#4#\\arauiajlFaraníusnde#\\eTnogr#\\rieB\\#r3oqeAulnTa7eaob2l^#mrrraáeddmaeonalindRCeoionssl#\\catóaVnictor#\\ia ¸0A405 San Pedro #\\ Manilva de Alcántara dCeolsStaol Castellar de la Guadiaro Frontera #\\ \\# #\\ 0¸A381 Sotogrande ·/San A7 Roque #\\ Los Barrios #\\ La Línea de MEDITESRERAANEAN Algeciras \\# Km#\\ la Concepción Pelayo #\\ ##^8 Gibraltar #\\ Tarifa

1 Nerja DETOUR: FRIGILIANA In a charmed spot sit- ting at the base of the Sierra Almijara peaks, this former fishing Start: 1 Nerja SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches village has retained its low-rise village charm, After the cavernous gloom of the Cueva de Nerja, despite the proliferation consider heading inland to Frigiliana, a pueblos blanco of souvenir shops and voted as the prettiest in Andalucía by the Spanish day trippers. At its heart tourism authority. It’s well signposted: take the M5105 is the Balcón de Europa, inland from Nerja, passing groves of mango and one of the most beautiful avocado trees and follow signs to the casco historico promenades on the Costa and car park. Frigiliana is famed for its sweet local wine del Sol, built on the site and honey, which you can buy at small village shops. It of a Moorish castle. Grab is an enchanting place with a tangible Moroccan feel; a coffee at one of the ter- read the plaques around town to learn why – the village stretches back to the time of the Moors. raced cafes before head- ing north of town to visit de Nerja (www.cuevade the extraordinary Cueva nerja.es; adult/child €9/5; The Drive » Consider taking the slightly slower, but more #\\ hunguided visit 10am-1pm & scenic, N340 to Rincón de #\\\\#4#\\-5.30pm Sep-Jun, 10am-6pm la Victoria, then pick up the BZaofqaurerateyade \\# Alhama de Jul & Aug; guided visit 1-2pm & A7-E15 bypass to Málaga. This Granada #\\5.3#\\0-6.30pm Sep-Jun, 11am- meandering coastal road passes c Maroma #\\noon & 6.30-7.30pm Jul & Aug), through pretty agricultural (2069m) Parque Natural dating back a cool five land. Look for the centuries-old R Sierras de Tejeda, million years: it’s a 4km watchtowers from the days of Almijara y Alhama long theatrical wonder- Barbarian invaders. It’s a total R El Lucero drive of 58km (1¼ hours). Vélez Cómpeta (1779m) #\\ land of extraordinary \\# rock formations, subtle TRIP HIGHLIGHT H#Málaga shifting colours and sta- #\\ lactites and stalagmites. 2 Málaga ·/A7 Frigiliana Almuñécar #\\ Book a one- or two-night Torrox #\\ p391 stay here to experience 5 p397 the city’s buzzing bar life #\\ #lLFG#\\#\\ 27 \\# #\\1 Torre #\\ Nerja #\\ del Mar Torrox Costa TrCoopsitcaal LINK YOUR TRIP r Mediterranean x Alentejo & Meander Algarve Beaches Málaga is the start of this For more stunning coast, east-coast ramble that head west via Seville to the takes in several of the Portuguese border then most stunning cities in on to Cacela Velha to do Spain, including its final the Algarve trip in reverse. destination: Barcelona. (349km). e# 0 20 km 391 0 10 miles

SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches and increasingly sophis- Lario; cathedral & museum This is a busy stretch of autovia ticated foodie scene. Mál- €5, tower €6; h10am-6pm (highway) that passes the aga has also emerged as Mon-Sat), then duck inside airport. It’s a drive of 18.5km or a serious cultural capital, to admire the gorgeous 25 minutes. with some 30 museums, retables and stash of including the Museo 18th-century religious TRIP HIGHLIGHT Carmen Thyssen (www. art. Travel further back carmenthyssenmalaga.org; in time by visiting the 3 Torremolinos Alcazaba (Calle Alcazabilla; Calle Compañía 10; admission admission €2.20, incl Castillo de Start your exploration in Gibralfaro €3.40; h9.30am- the centre of town with a €4.50, incl temporary exhibition 8pm Tue-Sun), a fascinating meander down pedes- €9; h10am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), 11th-century Moorish trian Calle San Miguel, the Museo Ruso (%951 92 palace-fortress. Across lined with shops, cafes 61 50; www.coleccionmuseo- from the entrance – and and bars. Continue as the street winds down to ruso.es; Avenida de Sor Teresa Roman Amphitheatre steps which lead to Play- (%951 50 11 15; Calle Alca- amar, the main beach. Plat 15; adult/child €8/free; zabilla 8) – Batik (%952 22 Turn right for one of the h11am-10pm Tue-Sun; p), 10 45; www.batikmalaga.com; most delightful walks and the Museo del Vidrio Calle Alcazabilla 12; mains €12- on the Costa, round the y Cristal (Museum of Glass & 20; h10am-midnight; W) is rocky headland to La Crystal; %952 22 02 71; www. an atmospheric place for Carihuela; the former a drink and innovative fishing barrio (neigh- museovidrioycristalmalaga. bite to eat. bourhood) which is now, fittingly, home to some com; Plazuela Santísimo Cristo 5 4 p397 superb seafood restau- rants such as Casa Juan de la Sangre 2; admission €5; The Drive » Leaving Málaga, (www.losmellizos.net; Calle h11am-7pm Tue-Sun), a San Ginés 20, La Carihuela; private collection that take the A7 in the direction of mains €13-20). This paseo concentrates on glass and Algecíras, Torremolinos and (walk) continues to the crystal. Climb the tower Cádiz, then follow the MA20 for fabulous views from signposted to Torremolinos. the landmark 16th-century Catedral de Málaga (%952 21 59 17; Calle Molina DETOUR: COMARÉS Start: 2 Málaga (p391) Heading inland, northeast of Málaga, brings you to La Axarquía, a stunning rugged region, great for hiking, and stippled with pretty unspoiled pueblos (villages). A highlight of the area is, quite literally, Comarés which sits like a snowdrift upon a lofty mountain (739m) commanding spectacular views of the surrounding mountain range and coast. Wander the tangle of narrow lanes and don’t miss the remarkable summit cemetery. There are also several walking trails that start from here; stop by the small ayuntamiento (town hall) on Plaza de la Axarquía for more information and maps. The village is home to several bars and a couple of restaurants, as well as a small supermarket for self-caterers. Get here via the A45 autovia (highway), direction Granada, Córdoba and Seville, take the Casabermeja exit and follow signs to Comarés via the A356 (through Riogordo) and the MA159. The journey totals 55km and should take you roughly one hour. 392

Puerto Deportivo de TOP TIP: SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches Benalmádena, striking TOLL ROAD AP7 for its Gaudí-cum-Asian- cum-Mr Whippy–style If you are travelling in July and August, consider architecture, and large taking the AP7 toll road, at least between Fuengirola choice of bars, restau- and Marbella as the A7 can become dangerously rants and shops overlook- congested. This particular A7 stretch (formerly part of ing the boats (one of the N340) used to be notorious for accidents; however, which reputedly belongs the situation has improved since the introduction of a to actor celeb and native 80km/h speed limit in former trouble spots. malagueño Antonio Banderes). very well, with no cages cobbled streets, dipping or bars, but, rather, spa- into the tapas bars and 5 p397 cious enclosures and con- shopping for souvenirs. The Drive » Continue on the servation and breeding Be sure to walk up to the programs. Plaza de Toros (museum €3; N340, which hugs the coast and h10am-8pm); an unusual passes through the busy coastal 5 p397 square-shaped bullring resort of Benalmádena Costa. The Drive » From Fuengirola’s at the top of the village, Note that there is a 50km speed surrounded by lush limit on this scenic stretch. central Renfe train station, take ornamental gardens with Avenida Alcalde Clemente Díaz spectacular views of the 4 Fuengirola Ruiz inland. Cross the autovia A7 coast. Mijas also has a and continue on the Carretera large foreign resident The appeal of Fuengirola de Mijas. In Mijas follow signs population and a vigor- lies in the fact that it is a to the underground carpark (€1 ous calendar of events, genuine Spanish working for 24 hours). This 7km journey including live flamenco town, as well as a popular should take around 10 minutes. shows in the main resort. There is a large plaza every Wednesday foreign resident popula- 5 Mijas at noon, an annual blues tion here as well, many festival in July and of whom arrived here in The pueblo blanco regular concerts in the the ’60s and stayed after (white village) of Mijas auditorium. their ponytails went grey. has retained its sugar- Grab a (bar) chair in cube cuteness despite The Drive » Return to the A7 pretty flower-festooned being on the coach-tour Plaza de la Constitucíon, circuit. Art buffs should autovia. This double carriageway which is overlooked by check out the Centro passes through the most the baroque facade of the de Arte Contemporá- densely built span of the entire church, then explore the neo de Mijas (CAC; www. Costa, with urbanisations such surrounding narrow pe- cacmijas.info; Calle Málaga 28; as Calahonda and Miraflores destrian streets flanked admission €3; h10am-7pm that date from the 1980s, by idiosyncratic small Tue-Sun) contemporary when the Costa was at its peak shops and tapas bars. The art museum, with its of popularity and expansion. excellent Bioparc (%952 second-largest collec- Continue west along here until 66 63 01; www.bioparcfuengiro- tion of Picasso ceramics you reach the exit for Marbella; la.es; Avenida Camilo José Cela; in the world. Otherwise a total drive of 33km or 25 adult/child €18/13; h10am- this village is all about minutes. sunset; p), northwest of strolling the narrow here, is the Costa’s best zoo and treats its animals 393

HOLGER LEUE / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES © KEN WELSH / ALAMY © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP JOSEPHINE QUINTERO, AUTHOR My home for two decades, the Costa del Sol is changing all the time and definitely for the better. Whatever you already know about this coast, one fact is for sure – it is extraordinary: both crazily diverse and supremely entertaining. In other words, I have ensured there’s never a dull moment on this classic drive – and there shouldn’t be dull weather either – it’s called ‘the sunshine coast’ for good reason. Top: Gibraltar ape perched high above the town Left: Resort life in Marbella Right: Estepona’s pretty balconied houses

SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the BeachesTRIP HIGHLIGHT MONYSASI / GETTY IMAGES © 6 Marbella Marbella is the Costa del Sol’s classiest ‘rich and famous’ resort and is a good choice for an overnight stop. This town has a magnificent natural setting, sheltered by the beautiful Sierra Blanca mountains, as well as a gorgeous old town with pristine white houses, narrow traffic-free streets and geranium-filled balconies. At its heart is picturesque Plaza de los Naranjos, dating back to 1485 with tropical plants, palms and orange trees. From here walk to the coastal promenade via the lush Parque de la Alameda gardens with its fountains and tiled seats. Next consider a gentle stroll east along the sea- front towards the luxuri- ous marina of Puerto Banús, past the five-star resorts of the Marbella Club and Puente Ro- mano, the latter named after the still-standing Roman bridge, once part of the Via Augustus link- ing Càdiz to Rome. It’s 6km in total to the port if you decide to stride out all the way. 5 4 p397 The Drive » Continue due west on the A7 autovia, signposted to Algeciras and Cádiz. This stretch of highway is less built up and passes by San Pedro de la Alcántera, as well as five golf courses (they don’t 395

SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches nickname this the Costa del Golf The Drive » For the final leg Den, the Great Siege for nothing!). It’s a snappy 20 Tunnels (h9.30am-6.15pm), minutes or just 24km to your consider taking the AP7 toll road the Moorish castle, the next stop: Estepona. for the first 20km (12 minutes, Military Heritage Centre, €3.50) as the N340 coastal and the 100-tonne gun. 7 Estepona stretch here is very slow, with The Rock’s most famous numerous roundabouts. At inhabitants, however, This is the Costa del Sol Guadiaro the AP7 merges with are the tailless Barbary resort which is most the A7 for the rest of the 34km macaques. Some of the intrinsically Spanish, journey. Consider a refreshment 200 apes hang around with a charming historic stop at swanky Sotogrande the top cable-car station centre of narrow cobbled harbour; Sotogorande is while others are found streets flanked by simple also home to Spain’s leading at the Apes’ Den. Most pueblo houses decorated golf course, the Real Club Gibraltar soujourns start by well-tended pots of ge- Valderrama. in Grand Casemates Sq, a raniums. Make a beeline jolly place surrounded by for the historic Plaza de 8 Gibraltar bars and restaurants, but las Flores square with with a grim history as its fountain centrepoint, Red pillar boxes, fish- the site of public execu- orange trees and handy and-chips shops, bobbies tions. Learn more about tourist office, where you on the beat and creaky the Rock’s history at the can stop for a town map. seaside hotels. Stuck fine Gibraltar Museum Highlights here include strategically at the jaws (www.gibmuseum.gi; 18-20 the fabulous Orchidarium of Europe and Africa, (www.orchidariumestepona.es; Gibraltar’s Palladian Bomb House Lane; adult/ Calle Terraza 86; h11am-2pm architecture and camera- & 5-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to hogging Barbary apes child £2/1; h10am-6pm 11pm Fri & Sat), with the create an interesting Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat); don’t largest orchid collection contrast and finale to miss the well-preserved in Europe, some 1500 your journey. Highlights Muslim bathhouse and species, plus subtropical on ‘the Rock’ include an intricately painted plants, flowers and trees. the Upper Rock Nature 7th-century-BC Egyptian A meandering path takes Reserve (adult/child incl mummy that washed up you through the exhibi- attractions £10/5, vehicle £2, here in the late 1800s. tion space and past a pedestrian excl attractions dramatic 17m-high water- £0.50; h9am-6.15pm, last fall. Estepona’s Puerto entry 5.45pm), one of the Deportivo is excellent for most dramatic landforms water sports, as well as in southern Europe. En- bars and restaurants. try tickets include admis- sion to the extraordinary 5 p397 St Michael’s Cave (St Michael’s Rd; h9am-5.45pm, to 6.15pm Apr-Oct), the Apes’ 396

Eating & Sleeping Nerja 1 include a delicious salmorejo (thick garlicky gazpacho), barbecued sardines, and almejas 5 Oliva Modern European €€€ (clams) in a spicy paprika-based sauce. The terrace fronts onto the sand. (%952 52 29 88; www.restauranteoliva.com; Calle Pintada 7; mains €19-23; h1-4pm & Fuengirola 4 7-11pm) Impeccable service, single orchids, a drum-and-bass soundtrack and a charcoal- 5 La Cepa Seafood € SPAIN 28 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches grey-and-green colour scheme; in short, this (Plaza Yate 21; tapas €3, mains €7-10; hnoon- place has class. The menu is reassuringly brief 4pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, to 3.30pm Sun) Hidden and changes regularly according to what’s in away on an attractive bar-and-restaurant-lined season. The inventive dishes combine unlikely square, the menu concentrates on seafood, ingredients such as pistachio falafel and including such tentacle ticklers as fried squid, mango panna cotta with black-olive caramel. and prawns wrapped in bacon. Reservations recommended. Málaga 2 Marbella 5 5 Uvedoble Taberna Tapas € 5 El Estrecho Tapas € (www.uvedobletaberna.com; Calle Císter 15; (Calle San Lázaro; tapas €2.50-3.50; hnoon- tapas €2.70; h12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight midnight) It’s always crammed, so elbow your Mon-Sat; W) There’s not much elbow room at way to a space in the small back dining room this slick contemporary place, but this local and order from a massive menu that includes tapas hotspot is planning to expand to meet the tapas such as salmorejo (gazpacho) and demand for their famously popular seafood- seafood salad. based tapas such as fideos negro tostada con calamaritos (toasted black noodles with baby 4 Hotel San Cristóbal Hotel €€ squid), and grilled octopus with potatoes and (%952 86 20 44; www.hotelsancristobal.com; chives. Avenida Ramñon y Cajal 3; s/d incl breakfast 4 El Hotel del Pintor Boutique Hotel €€ €60/85; W) Dating back to the ’60s, this (%952 06 09 81; www.hoteldelpintor.com; Calle solid midrange hotel has recently revamped Álamos 27; s/d €59/70; aiW) The red, black and white colour scheme of this friendly, small rooms sporting tasteful pale-grey and cream hotel echoes the abstract artwork of malagueño artist Pepe Bornov, whose paintings are on decor contrasting with smart navy fabrics. permanent display throughout the public areas and rooms. Although convenient for most of the Most rooms have balconies and a pool is being city’s main sights, pack your earplugs, as the rooms in the front can be noisy, especially on a planned. Saturday night. Estepona 6 5 La Esquina del Arte Tapas € (Calle Villa; tapas €2-3; hnoon-midnight Torremolinos 3 Mon-Sat; W) This place may be in the middle of the historic centre but there is nothing old 5 El Cordobes Andalucian €€ fashioned about the creative tapas and pintxos (Basque tapas) here. Expect tasty bites such (Playamar; mains €12-15; c) The best of the as prawns wrapped in flaky pastry, pâté with beachside chiringuitos (seafront restaurants), fig jam and peppers stuffed with salt cod. It has attracting a loyal Spanish clientele. Specialities excellent wines by the glass. 397

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