Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © DON'T MISS Killarney Jaunting Cars Clip-clop in a traditional horse-drawn jaunting car on Trip o Galway Traditional Irish pub Belfast m Iconic Ireland 7 Days When previously The best of Ireland’s five-star cultural and natural warring communities attractions. (p301) have the courage to strive for peace, it’s n The Long Way Round 14 Days inspiring. Witness that Ireland’s crenellated coastlines, vibrant port cities transformation on and island treasures. (p315) Trip p o Ring of Kerry 4 Days Weave your way past jaw-dropping scenery as you Arranmore Island circumnavigate the Iveragh Peninsula. (p329) Ancient pubs, turf p The North in a Nutshell 10 Days fires and late-night Big cities, big-name sights, hidden beaches, tiny music sessions make islands – an epic drive. (p341) overnighting special. Do a Robinson Crusoe on q Musical Landscapes 5 Days A ride round County Clare’s hottest trad-music Trip p spots. (p353) Ennistymon This authentic market town in County Clare gives a genuine taste of country living. Savour its qfine bars on Trip Galway You may find it hard to leave the City of Tribes. Go for its culture, conviviality and craic on Trip q 299

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RICHARD CUMMINS/GETTY IMAGES © 22Iconic Ireland This trip gives you a glimpse of the very best Ireland has to offer, including the country’s most famous attractions, most spectacular countryside, and most popular towns and villages. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS lL##1 7 DAYS 959KM / 596 MILES 0 km 460 km GREAT FOR... Dublin Cliffs of Moher World-class museums, Majestic sea cliffs HBJ superb restaurants rising over 200m from and terrific nightlife BEST TIME TO GO a churning sea # April to September, 670 km for the long days and Roundstone best weather. Dingle ##5 Traditional pubs, enticing I ESSENTIAL # Ennis craft studios and music, PHOTO Km##7 # music everywhere The Lakes of Killarney Killorglin # Killarney from Ladies’ View on # Kenmare the Ring of Kerry. K BEST TWO DAYS The Connemara peninsula and the Ring of Kerry. DLoincgalteioPneCnainpstuiolna dMeitnaailrsdtBoegaochere 301

Leenane 4¼N59 \\# Clifden TBweenlvse H# #4\\# 4¼p304 N59 4¼ #R341 3#\\ \\# 22 Iconic Ireland Roundstone Every time-worn truth about Ireland will be found on IsAlarannds this trip: the breathtaking scenery of stone-walled ATLANTIC fields and wave-dashed cliffs; the picture-postcard OCEAN villages and bustling towns; the ancient ruins that DonPeoginatl have stood since before history was written. The Loop trip begins in Ireland’s storied, fascinating capital Head and transports you to the wild west of Galway and Mouth of the Shannon Connemara before taking you south to the even wilder GF23 Tralee Tralee folds of County Kerry. Bay \\# Slea 4¼ 4¼Head # # 4¼8 Dingle R561 #7\\ N86 1\\#3 R563 N70 Killorglin ]# 4¼ #Portmagee Kells mK& Valentia\\# Island 4¼N71 Kenmare H# #\\#12 #Sneem 10#\\ 4¼\\# N70 TRIP HIGHLIGHT www.tcd.ie; h 8am-10pm), p310 #1\\#1 home to the gloriously Skellig Michael Caherdaniel illuminated Book of Bantry Bay 1 Dublin Kells. It’s kept in the Old \\# Library’s stunning 65m World-class museums, Long Room (www.tcd.ie/ highlights beyond green fields, superb restaurants and visitors/book-of-kells; East which get greener and a little the best collection of more wild the further west you entertainment in the Pavilion, Library Colonnades, go. Twenty-four kilometres south country – there are plenty of Athlone (about halfway) of good reasons why the Trinity College; adult/student/ is a worthwhile detour to capital is the ideal place Clonmacnoise. to start your trip. Get child €10/9/free; h9.30am- some sightseeing in on a walking tour (p366) 5pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-4.30pm before ‘exploring’ at least Sun May-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun Oct-Apr; gall city centre). one of the city’s storied – 5 4 p312, p326 2 Galway City if not historic – pubs. Your top stop should The Drive »It’s a 208km The best way to appreci- ate Galway is to amble – be the grounds of Trinity trip to Galway city across the around Eyre Sq and College (%01-896 1000; country along the M6 motorway, which has little in terms of visual 302

:: : MAYO ROSCOMMON #\\ Longford #\\ Drogheda #] Irish #\\ Partry Sea Kells 4¼4¼GF# 4¼ 4¼4¼ 4¼ 4¼ 4¼ 4¼4¼LlGF##I#\\Lough N17 Roscommon #\\ LONGFORD N4 23 Mask 23 \\# Tuam N63 LoRuegeh : MEATH N3 DUBLIN Lough Mullingar Kinnegad Swords Corrib \\# #\\ #\\ Oughterard M4 WESTMEATH : Dublin #\\ #\\ #_1 GALWAY Athlone \\# M6 #\\ Screeb #\\ lar N59 Ballinasloe ConnRa33u6ghGt alw#^2ay #\\ N62 p366 #\\ Galway Bay M6 #\\ Tullamore KILDARE OFFALY \\# Naas Kilcolgan Loughrea #\\ #\\ GF 4¼ 4¼26 #\\ N67 OugVhatlmleyamaPortumna#\\ M7 IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland Birr \\# Slieve Bloom Portlaoise WICKLOW #5 #\\ Lisdoonvarna LDoeurggh Mountains #\\ MWoiucnktlaoiwns \\# Nenagh LAOIS 4¼ FG 4¼Cliffs of N85 26 CLARE M7 #4¼ 4¼ 4¼Moher 6#\\ Ennis Slieve #\\ M9 Bernagh Silvermine M8 Carlow #\\ M18 Hills Mountains Shannon \\# Thurles #\\ CARLOW BMlaocuknsttaaiinrss WEXFORD #^ Limerick Kilkenny #] Enniscorthy 4¼Tarbert N69 N24TippT\\#eIrParPyERA#]RYCasShlieevlHeailrlsdagKKheILllsK#\\ENNY #\\ 4¼#\\ Rathkeale \\# Lough 4¼ 4¼N69 4¼4Mullaghareirk Mountains 4KERRY LIMERICK Gur New Ross #\\ N20 Slievenamuck BHooilllesy N11 Charleville Hills #\\ Galtee Mountains Clonmel Wexford #] #\\ BMaolluynhtoauinras Mitchelsto#\\wn Comeragh #^ Waterford #\\ Mountains Nire Valley Rosslare BlaVcaklwleayter WATERFORD Ballyteige 4¼Mallow Bay Harbour #\\ N72 ##]9 Killarney Derrynasaggart MoNuangtlaesins #\\ Dungarvan Mountains Killarney CORK 4¼N25 #\\ Youghal National Cork #^ Youghal #\\ Park Bay #\\ Bantry #\\ Durrus GF23 StCGhaeonrngeel's 100 km 4¼N71 #\\ Kinsale 50 miles e#0 0 down Shop St towards LINK q Musical the Spanish Arch and the YOUR Landscapes River Corrib, stopping off TRIP for a little liquid suste- Take a detour from nance in one of the city’s n The Long Way Galway through County classic old pubs. Top of Round Clare’s hottest trad our list is Tig Cóilí (Main- music spots, picking guard St; h10.30am-midnight For comprehensive up the trail again in coverage of the best Lisdoonvarna. Mon-Thu, to 12.30am Fri & Sat, of south and north, to 11pm Sun), a fire-engine- combine these two trips red pub that draws making a loop from Galway. 303

IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland them in with its two live ers and traditional cur- era country town with an céilidh (traditional music rachs with tarred canvas amoeba-shaped oval of and dancing sessions) bottoms stretched over streets offering evocative each day. A close second wicker frames. strolls. It presides over is the cornflower blue the head of the narrow Tigh Neachtain (www.tigh Just south of the vil- bay where the River neachtain.com; 17 Upper Cross lage, in the remains of an Owenglin tumbles into St; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon- old Franciscan monas- the sea. The surrounding Thu & Sun, 10.30am-12.30am tery, is Malachy Kearns’. countryside beckons you Fri & Sat), known simply as Kearns is Ireland’s only to walk through woods Neachtain’s (nock-tans) full-time maker of tradi- and above the shoreline. or Naughtons – stop and tional bodhráns (hand- join the locals for a pint. held goatskin drums). 5 4 p312 Watch him work and buy The Drive »It’s 154km to the 5 4 p312 a tin whistle, harp or booklet filled with Irish Cliffs of Moher; you’ll have to The Drive »The most direct ballads; there’s also a backtrack through Galway city small free folk museum (take the N59) before turning route to Roundstone is to cut and a cafe. south along the N67. This will through Connemara along take you through the unique the N59, turning left on the The Drive »The 22km inland striated landscape of the Clifden Rd – a total of 76km. Burren, a moody, rocky and at Alternatively, the 103km coastal route from Roundstone to times fearsome space accented route, via the R336 and R340, Clifden is a little longer, but the with ancient burial chambers winds its way around small road is better (especially the and medieval ruins. bays, coves and lovely seaside N59) and the brown, barren hamlets. beauty of Connemara is yours TRIP HIGHLIGHT to behold. The 18km coastal 3 Roundstone route along the R341 brings 5 Cliffs of Moher you through more speckled Huddled on a boat-filled landscape; to the south you’ll Star of a million tourist harbour, Roundstone have glimpses of the ocean. brochures, the Cliffs of (Cloch na Rón) is one Moher (Aillte an Mothair, of Connemara’s gems. 4 Clifden or Ailltreacha Mothair) Colourful terrace houses are one of the most popu- and inviting pubs over- Connemara’s ‘capital’, lar sights in Ireland. look the dark recess of Clifden (An Clochán) is Bertraghboy Bay, which an appealing Victorian- The entirely vertical is home to lobster trawl- cliffs rise to a height of 203m, their edge falling DETOUR: away abruptly into the THE SKY ROAD constantly churning sea. A series of heads, the Start: 4 Clifden dark limestone seems to If you head directly west from Clifden’s Market march in a rigid forma- Sq you’ll come onto the Sky Road, a 12km route tion that amazes, no tracing a spectacular loop out to the township of matter how many times Kingston and back to Clifden, taking in some rugged, you look. stunningly beautiful coastal scenery en route. It’s a cinch to drive, but you can also easily walk or cycle it. Such appeal comes at a price: crowds. This is check-off tourism big time and bus-loads come and go constantly in summer. A vast visitor centre (www.cliffsofmoher.ie; 304

PAULGMCCABE/GETTY IMAGES © Skellig Michael View to Little Skellig 305

JOHN ELK/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP FIONN DAVENPORT, WRITER The loop from Dublin west to Galway and then south through Kerry into Cork explores all of Ireland’s scenic heavy hitters. It’s the kind of trip I’d make if I was introducing visiting friends to the very best Ireland has to offer, the kind of appealing appetiser that should entice them to come back and visit the country in greater depth. Top: Staigue Fort Left: Clifden Right: The road between Kenmare and Killarney

PETE SEAWARD/LONELY PLANET © h9am-9pm Jul & Aug, to 7.30pm June, to 7pm May & Sep, to 6.30pm Apr, to 6pm Mar IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; admis- ROBERT MCGRATH/GETTY IMAGES © sion to site adult/child €6/free) handles the hordes. Like so many over- popular natural wonders, there’s relief and joy if you’re willing to walk for 10 minutes. Past the end of the ‘Moher Wall’ south, there’s a trail along the cliffs to Hag’s Head – few venture this far. The Drive »The 39km drive to Ennis goes inland at Lahinch (famous for its world-class golf links); it’s then 24km to your destination, through flat south Clare. Dotted with stone walls and fields, it’s the classic Irish landscape. 6 Ennis As the capital of a renowned music county, Ennis (Inis) is filled with pubs featuring trad music. In fact, this is the best reason to stay here. Where’s best changes of- ten; stroll the streets pub- hopping to find what’s on any given night. If you want to buy an authentic, well-made Irish instrument, pop into Custy’s Music Shop (%065-682 1727; www.custys music.com; Cook’s Lane, off O’Connell St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat), which sells fiddles and other musical items as well as giving general info about the local scene. 5 4 p312, p361 307

IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland The Drive »It’s 186km to authentic charms are all 8 Slea Head yours to savour. Many of Dingle if you go via Limerick Dingle’s pubs double as Overlooking the mouth of city, but only 142km if you go via shops, so you can enjoy Dingle Bay, Mt Eagle and the N68 to Killimer for the ferry Guinness and a singalong the Blasket Islands, Slea across the Shannon estuary to among such items as Head has fine beaches, Tarbert. The views get fabulous screws and nails, wellies good walks and superbly when you’re beyond Tralee on and horseshoes. preserved structures the N86, especially if you take from Dingle’s ancient the 456m Connor Pass, Ireland’s 5 4 p313 past, including beehive highest. The Drive »It’s only 17km to huts, forts, inscribed stones and church sites. TRIP HIGHLIGHT Slea Head along the R559. The Dunmore Head is the views – of the mountains to westernmost point on 7 Dingle Town the north and the wild ocean to the Irish mainland and the south and west – are a big the site of the wreckage In summer, Dingle’s hilly chunk of the reason you came to in 1588 of two Spanish streets can be clogged Ireland in the first place. Armada ships. with visitors, there’s just no way around it; The Iron Age Dun- in other seasons, its beg Fort is a dramatic example of a promontory LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: fortification, perched atop ENNIS’ BEST TRAD a sheer sea cliff about 7km SESSION PUBS southwest of Ventry on the road to Slea Head. The Cíaran’s Bar (1 Francis St; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, fort has four outer walls to 12.30am Fri & Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun) Slip into this of stone. Inside are the small place by day and you can be just another remains of a house and a geezer pondering a pint. At night there’s usually beehive hut, as well as an trad music. Bet you wish you had a copy of the underground passage. Guinness mural out front! Brogan’s (24 O’Connell St; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, The Drive »The 88km to to 12.30am Fri & Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun) On the corner of Cooke’s Lane, Brogan’s sees a fine bunch of Killarney will take you through musicians rattling even the stone floors from Annascaul (home to a pub once about 9pm Monday to Thursday, plus even more owned by Antarctic explorer Tom nights in summer. Crean) and Inch (whose beach Cruise’s Pub (Abbey St; hnoon-2am) There are trad is seen in Ryan’s Daughter). At music sessions most nights from 9.30pm. Castlemaine, turn south towards Miltown then take the R563 to Killarney. Poet’s Corner Bar (Old Ground Hotel, O’Connell St; 9 Killarney h11am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11-12.30am Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun) This old pub often has massive trad sessions Beyond its proximity to on Fridays. lakes, waterfalls, wood- land and moors dwarfed O’Dea’s (66 O’Connell St; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, by 1000m-plus peaks, to 12.30am Fri & Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun) Unchanged since Killarney has many at least the 1950s, this plain-tile-fronted pub is charms of its own as well a hideout for local musicians serious about their as being the gateway trad sessions. Gets some of Clare’s best. to the Ring of Kerry, 308

KLEMPA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Dingle Peninsula Sheep pasture perhaps the outstanding 19th-century Muckross a Kenmare highlight of many a visit House. to Ireland. Picturesque Kenmare 5 4 p313, p339 carries its romantic Besides the breath- The Drive »It’s 27km along reputation more stylishly taking views of the than does Killarney, and mountains and glacial the N71 to Kenmare, much of it there is an elegance lakes, highlights of the through Killarney National Park about its handsome cen- 10,236-hectare Killarney with its magnificent views – tral square and attractive National Park include especially Ladies’ View (at 10km; buildings. It still gets Ireland’s only wild herd much loved by Queen Victoria’s very busy in summer, of native red deer, the ladies-in-waiting) and, 5km all the same. The town country’s largest area of further on, Moll’s Gap, a popular stands where the delight- ancient oak woods and stop for photos and food. fully named Finnihy, 309

IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland Roughty and Sheen Riv- 4km detour north takes you to of Daniel O’Connell, the ers empty into Kenmare the rarely visited Staigue Fort, campaigner for Catho- River. Kenmare makes which dates from the 3rd or 4th lic emancipation. His a pleasant alternative to century. ancestors bought the Killarney as a base for house and surrounding visiting the Ring of Kerry b Caherdaniel parkland, having grown and the Beara Peninsula. rich on smuggling with The big attraction here France and Spain. It’s 5 4 p313, p339 is Derrynane National largely furnished with The Drive »The 47km to Historic Park (% 066-947 O’Connell memorabilia, 5113; www.heritageireland. including the restored Caherdaniel along the southern ie; h10.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, triumphal chariot in stretch of the Ring of Kerry duck 10am-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Mar– which he lapped Dublin in and out of view of Bantry end Mar & Oct, 10am-4pm after his release from Bay, with the marvellous Beara Sat & Sun Nov; adult/child prison in 1844. Peninsula to the south. Just €4/2), the family home before you reach Caherdaniel, a DETOUR: SKELLIG MICHAEL Start: c Portmagee & Valentia Island The jagged, 217m-high rock of Skellig Michael (www.heritageireland.ie; hmid-May–Sep) (Archangel Michael’s Rock; like St Michael’s Mount in Cornwall and Mont Saint Michel in Normandy) is the larger of the two Skellig Islands and a Unesco World Heritage Site. It looks like the last place on earth where anyone would try to land – let alone establish a community – yet early Christian monks survived here from the 6th until the 12th or 13th century. Influenced by the Coptic Church (founded by St Anthony in the deserts of Egypt and Libya), their determined quest for ultimate solitude led them to this remote, wind-blown edge of Europe. In 2015, Skellig Michael featured as Luke Skywalker’s secret retreat in Star Wars: The Force Awakens (and will feature in subsequent episodes of the third trilogy), attracting a whole new audience to the island’s dramatic beauty. It’s a tough place to get to, and requires care to visit, but is worth every effort. You’ll need to do your best grizzly sea-dog impression (‘Argh!’) on the 12km crossing, which can be rough. There are no toilets or shelter, so bring something to eat and drink, and wear stout shoes and weatherproof clothing. Due to the steep (and often slippery) terrain and sudden wind gusts, it’s not suitable for young children or people with limited mobility. Be aware that the island’s fragility requires limits on the number of daily visitors. The 15 boats are licensed to carry no more than 12 passengers each, for a maximum of 180 people at any one time. It’s wise to book ahead in July and August, bearing in mind that if the weather’s bad the boats may not sail (about two days out of seven). Trips usually run from Easter until September, depending, again, on the weather. Boats leave Portmagee, Ballinskelligs and Derrynane at around 10am and return at 3pm, and cost about €45 per person. Boat owners generally restrict you to two hours on the island, which is the bare minimum to see the monastery, look at the birds and have a picnic. The crossing takes about 1½ hours from Portmagee, 35 minutes to one hour from Ballinskelligs and 1¾ hours from Derrynane. 310

The Drive »Follow the N70 HOLGER LEUE/GETTY IMAGES © for about 18km and then turn left onto the R567, cutting through some of the wildest and most beautiful scenery on the peninsula, with the ragged outline of Skellig Michael never far from view. Turn left onto the R565; the whole drive is 35km long. c Portmagee & Derrynane Estuary Horseriding near Caherdaniel Valentia Island The island makes an for Puck Fair, Ireland’s Portmagee’s single street ideal driving loop. From best-known extant pagan is a rainbow of colourful April to October, there’s festival. houses, and is much pho- a frequent, quick ferry tographed. On summer trip at one end, as well as First recorded in 1603, mornings, the small pier the bridge to Portmagee with hazy origins, this comes to life with boats on the mainland at the lively (read: boozy) festival embarking on the choppy other end. is based around the cus- crossing to the Skellig tom of installing a billy Islands. The Drive »On the 55km goat (a poc, or puck), the symbol of mountainous A bridge links Portma- drive between Portmagee and Kerry, on a pedestal in the gee to 11km-long Valentia Killorglin, keep the mountains town, its horns festooned Island (Oileán Dairbhre), to your right (south) and the with ribbons. Other en- an altogether homier sea – when you’re near it – to tertainment ranges from isle than the brooding your left (north). Twenty-four a horse fair and bonny Skelligs to the southwest. kilometres along is the unusual baby competition to street Like the Skellig Ring Glenbeigh Strand, a tendril of theatre, concerts and it leads to, Valentia is sand protruding into Dingle Bay fireworks; the pubs stay an essential, coach-free with views of Inch Point and the open until 3am. detour from the Ring of Dingle Peninsula. Kerry. Some lonely ruins Author Blake Morrison are worth exploring. d Killorglin documents his mother’s childhood here in Things Valentia was chosen Killorglin (Cill Orglan) is My Mother Never Told Me. as the site for the first a quiet enough town, but transatlantic telegraph that all changes in mid- cable. When the connec- August, when the town tion was made in 1858, it erupts in celebration put Caherciveen in direct contact with New York. The link worked for 27 days before failing, but went back into action years later. 311

/ GETTY IMAGES © IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland Eating & Sleeping Dublin 1 4 House Hotel Hotel €€€ (%091-538 900; www.thehousehotel.ie; Spanish 5 101 Talbot Modern Irish €€ Pde; r €140-220; pW) There’s a hip and cool (www.101talbot.ie; 100-102 Talbot St; mains array of colour in the lobby at this smart and €17-24; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sat; gall stylish boutique hotel. Public spaces contrast city centre) This Dublin classic has expertly modern art with trad details and bold accents. resisted every trendy wave and has been a Cat motifs abound. The 40 rooms are small but stalwart of good Irish cooking since opening plush, with bright colour schemes and quality more than two decades ago. Its speciality is fabrics. Bathrooms ooze comfort. traditional meat-and-two-veg dinners, but with vague Mediterranean and even Middle Clifden 4 Eastern influences: roast Wicklow venison with 5 Mitchell’s Seafood €€ sweet potato, lentil and bacon cassoulet and a sensational Morcoccan-style lamb tagine. (%095-21867; www.mitchellsrestaurantclifden. Superb. com; Market St; lunch mains €7-15, dinner mains 4 Number 31 Guesthouse €€€ €17-28; hnoon-10pm Mar-Oct) Seafood takes (%01-676 5011; www.number31.ie; 31 Leeson centre stage at this elegant spot. From a velvety Close; s/d incl breakfast €200/240; pW; gall chowder right through a long list of ever- city centre) The city’s most distinctive property changing and inventive specials, the produce is the former home of modernist architect Sam of the surrounding waters is honoured. The Stephenson, who successfully fused ’60s style wine list does the food justice. Lunch includes with 18th-century grace. Its 21 bedrooms are sandwiches and casual fare. Book for dinner. split between the retro coach house, with its 4 Dolphin Beach B&B €€ coolly modern rooms, and the more elegant (%095-21204; www.dolphinbeachhouse.com; Georgian house, where rooms are individually Lower Sky Rd; s from €90, d €130-180, dinner furnished with tasteful French antiques and big €40; pW) This exquisite B&B, set amid some comfortable beds. Gourmet breakfasts with of Connemara’s best coastal scenery, does kippers, homemade breads and granola are everything right. The emphasis is on style, served in the conservatory. tranquillity, relaxation and gorgeous views, a formula that can be hard to tear yourself away Galway City 2 from. It’s 5km west of Clifden, tucked away off the Lower Sky Road. 5 Quays Irish €€ (Quay St; mains lunch €11-14, dinner €17-22; Ennis 6 h11am-10pm) This sprawling pub does a 5 Rowan Tree roaring business downstairs in its restaurant, which has hearty carvery lunches and more Cafe Bar Mediterranean €€ ambitious mains at night. The cold seafood (www.rowantreecafebar.ie; Harmony Row; mains platter stars the bounty from Galway Bay. €11-23; h10.30am-11pm; W) There’s nothing Students on dates and out celebrating get low rent about the excellent Med-accented rowdier as the pints and hours pass. fare served at this cafe-bar on the ground floor of the namesake hostel. The gorgeous main 312

dining room has high ceilings and a wondrous rooms that overlook the estuary, and two-room old wooden floor from the 18th century; tables family suites opening onto the terrace. It’s 1km outside have river views. Ingredients are locally southeast of the town centre. and organically sourced. 4 Old Ground Hotel Hotel €€ Killarney 9 (%065-682 8127; www.flynnhotels.com; 5 Brícín Irish €€ O’Connell St; s/d from €120/150; piW) A seasoned, charming and congenial space of (www.bricin.com; 26 High St; mains €19-26; polished floorboards, cornice-work, antiques h6-9pm Tue-Sat) Decorated with fittings from and open fires, the lobby is always a scene: a convent, an orphanage and a school, this old friends sinking into sofas, deals cut at Celtic deco restaurant doubles as the town IRELAND 22 Iconic Ireland the tables, and ladies from the neighbouring museum, with Jonathan Fisher’s 18th-century church’s altar society exchanging gossip over views of the national park taking pride of place. tea. Parts of this smart and rambling landmark Try the house speciality, boxty (traditional date back to the 1800s. The 83 rooms vary potato pancake). Two-/three-course dinner for greatly in size and decor – ask to inspect a few. €22/25 before 6.45pm. On balmy days, retire to tables on the lawn. 4 Crystal Springs B&B €€ Dingle 7 (%064-663 3272; www.crystalspringsbb.com; Ballycasheen Cross, Woodlawn Rd; s/d €70/95; 5 Idás Irish €€€ pW) The timber deck of this wonderfully relaxing B&B overhangs the River Flesk, where (%066-915 0885; John St; mains €27-31; trout anglers can fish for free. Rooms are richly h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun) Chef Kevin Murphy furnished with patterned wallpapers and walnut is dedicated to promoting the finest of Irish timber; private bathrooms (most with spa produce, much of it from Kerry, taking lamb baths) are huge. The glass-enclosed breakfast and seafood and foraged herbs from the Dingle room also overlooks the rushing river. It’s about peninsula and creating delicately flavoured a 15-minute stroll into town. concoctions such as braised John Dory fillet with fennel dashi cream, pickled cucumber, Kenmare a wild garlic and salad burnet. An early-bird menu offers two/three courses for €24.50/28.50. 5 Horseshoe Pub Food €€ 5 Out of the Blue Seafood €€€ (%064-664 1553; www.thehorseshoekenmare. (%066-915 0811; www.outoftheblue.ie; The com; 3 Main St; mains €14-26; hkitchen 5-10pm Wood; mains lunch €12.50-20, dinner €21-37; Thu-Mon) Flower baskets brighten the entrance h5-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-3pm & 5-9.30pm to this popular gastropub,CwahpticiohnChaapstiaonsChaoprtitobnCuatption excellent menu that runs from Kenmare Bay Sun) ‘No chips’, reads the menu of this funky blue-and-yellow, fishing-shack-style restaurant mussels in creamy apple cider sauce to braised on the waterfront. Despite its rustic surrounds, Kerry lamb on mustard mash. this is one of Dingle’s best restaurants, with an 4 Parknasilla Resort & Spa Hotel €€€ intense devotion to fresh local seafood (and only (%064-667 5600; www.parknasillaresort. com; Parknasilla; d/f/ste from €139/179/229; seafood); if they don’t like the catch, they don’t piWs) This hotel has been wowing guests (including George Bernard Shaw) since 1895 open. With seafood this good, who needs chips? with its pristine resort on the tree-fringed shores of the Kenmare River with views to the 4 Pax House B&B €€ Beara Peninsula. From the modern, luxuriously appointed bedrooms to the top-grade spa, (%066-915 1518; www.pax-house.com; Upper private 12-hole golf course and elegant restaurant, everything here is done just right. John St; d from €120; hMar-Nov; piW) It’s 3km southeast of Sneem. From its highly individual decor (including contemporary paintings) to the outstanding views over the estuary from room balconies and terrace, Pax House is a treat. Choose from less expensive hill-facing accommodation, 313

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ENDA CAVANAGHK PHOTOGRAPHY © The Long Way 23Round Why go in a straight line when you can perambulate at leisure? This trip explores Ireland’s jagged, scenic and spectacular edges; a captivating loop that takes in the whole island. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS ##3 14 DAYS 1300KM / 244 km ! Belfast 807 MILES Giant’s Causeway LlDublin ! GREAT FOR... One of the natural wonders of the world HBJ 600 km BEST TIME TO GO Westport You’ll have the best Photogenic Georgian weather (and crowds) town with a musical in June and August, reputation but September is ideal. ##6 I ESSENTIAL PHOTO ##9 # # The Burren Killahoey Beach from Doolin the top of Horn Head. Ring of # Km#1#4 K BEST TWO Kerry DAYS 1300 km Inishmór Stops 7 to 9 allow you Wind-lashed, Ardmore to experience the very cliff-protected World Secluded seaside best of the wild west, Heritage island village with ancient including a day trip to the Aran Islands. 740 km Christian ruins 315 DLoucbalitnioGnuCinanpetsiosnSdtoetraeihlsoutosego here

ATLANTIC OCEAN 23 The Long Way KBilalayla Round BlaBcakysodBallycroy Ballina There’s a strong case to be made that the very best #\\ Ireland has to offer is closest to its jagged, dramatic coastlines: the splendid scenery, the best mountain National ranges (geographically, Ireland is akin to a bowl, Park with raised edges) and most of its major towns and 4¼Clew Bay cities – Dublin, Belfast, Galway, Sligo and Cork. Castlebar#\\ N5 The western edge – between Donegal and Cork – #Westport 6\\# corresponds to the Wild Atlantic Way driving route. GFClifden #\\ Clifden 4¼N84 Bay 22 \\# GF26 Galway^# #Inishmór 9 The Burren #7 #Doolin #\\8 1 Dublin h9.30am-5pm Sep-Jun, to 4¼N85 7pm Jul & Aug; g21A, 51B, 4¼ #\\ From its music, art and 78, 78A, 123 from Fleet St, literature to the legendary jJames’s) is the most N67 Ennis nightlife that has inspired popular place to visit those same musicians, in town; a beer-lover’s Tralee 4¼ 4¼N69 N21 artists and writers, Disneyland and multi- Bay Dublin has always known media bells-and-whistles Dingle #\\ Tralee how to have fun and does homage to the country’s \\# Castlemaine it with deadly seriousness. most famous export and # 4¼1#\\0 N86 Start your sightseeing the city’s most enduring with a walk (p366). symbol. The old grain DBinagyle storehouse is a suitable Should you tire of the cathedral in which to # GF 4¼11 city’s more highbrow worship the black gold; Ring of ]# Killarney offerings, the Guinness shaped like a giant pint 22 N22 Storehouse (www.guinness- of Guinness, it rises #Kerry storehouse.com; St James’s seven impressive storeys 4¼N70 1\\#2 Kenmare Gate, South Market St; adult/ around a stunning cen- student/child €18/16/6.50, tral atrium. #\\ Glengarriff connoisseur experience €48; BaBnatyry #\\ Bantry 4¼N71 316

S C OT LAN D 5 4 p312, p326 The Drive » It’s 165km of Campbeltown#] motorway to Belfast – M1 in Giant's the Republic, A1 in Northern Ireland – but remember that H# #4¼ 4¼ 4¼ 4¼ #H#4¼RBosaDsyeusnLefpat3tn1ea9rkge4h#\\nynNy56\\#BunN1c#]3 ra#^naDCeA2orrleyraCiAn37aeu#\\sew3 pa3yA1286#\\BallycCaLNhsaatorlnrentnehel the speed limit changes from 4¼ 4¼N56 kilometres to miles as you #] Strabane Ballymena\\# \\# cross into the North. IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round A2 2 Belfast 4¼A5 Antrim \\# Belfast is in many ways ]#Donegal #] Omagh #Belfast 2 a brand-new city. Once lumped with Beirut, Donegal Baghdad and Bosnia as Bay \\# Lisburn one of the four ‘Bs’ for #] Dromore#\\ travellers to avoid, in 4¼N15 recent years it has pulled # 4¼ 4¼Sligo #]5 off a remarkable transfor- Bundoran A4 Armagh #] #] mation from bombs- and-bullets pariah to a #] #] Banbridge hip-hotels-and-hedonism party town. Enniskillen A1 The old shipyards on #\\Ballysadare Monaghan #] Newry the Lagan continue to give way to the luxury 4¼N17 apartments of the Titanic Quarter, whose centre- #\\ 4¼N4 4¼: : #] Dundalk piece, the stunning, star- N3 Dundalk shaped edifice housing Charlestown ::: Bay LINK Longford Drogheda ]# Irish YOUR \\# Sea TRIP Roscommon \\# 4¼ : 4¼M1 m Iconic Ireland For comprehensive N55 Mullingar coverage of the best of north #\\ Tuam : : \\# and south, combine these GF 4¼ # LlBallinasloe#\\ two trips making a loop from #\\ Athlone 22 M6 #\\ Swords Galway. Dublin 1 4¼ I##^ M6 q Musical #\\ Landscapes GF 4¼ 4¼26 Tullamore Naas \\# p366 #\\ Bray Take a detour from Galway through County Clare’s N65 M7 \\# hottest trad music spots, Greystones picking up the trail again in Birr #\\ Ennis. \\#Portlaoise Wicklow #\\ 317 4¼Nenagh M7 #\\ \\# Carlow#\\ Arklow \\# Thurles #\\ #] Kilkenny 4¼M11 #^ Limerick 444¼M9 \\#Enniscorthy Tipperary #\\ #] Cashel Clonmel #\\ \\# New Ross #]Wexford \\# Rosslare Harbour Mallow 4¼ 4¼ 44Waterford #^ \\# M8 N25 #\\ Dungarvan St George's Channel Youghal #\\ N25 mK#\\ # 4¼ #Cork 1#^3 1\\#4 Ardmore Cobh ATLANTIC OCEAN e# 0 80 km 0 50 miles

IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round the Titanic Belfast (www. um in 2016. They all add Cushendall and popular titanicbelfast.com; Queen’s to a list of attractions Ballycastle. that includes beauti- Rd; adult/child £17.50/7.25; fully restored Victorian TRIP HIGHLIGHT architecture, a glittering h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm waterfront lined with 3 Giant’s Causeway modern art, a fantastic Apr, May & Sep, 10am-5pm Oct- foodie scene and music- When you first see it Mar) centre, covering the filled pubs. you’ll understand why ill-fated liner’s construc- the ancients believed the tion here, has become the If you’re keen on learn- causeway was not a natu- city’s number-one tourist ing more about the city’s ral feature. The vast ex- draw. troubled history, take panse of regular, closely a walking tour of West packed, hexagonal stone New venues keep pop- Belfast. columns dipping gently ping up – already this beneath the waves looks decade historic Crumlin 5 4 p326 for all the world like the Road Gaol (%028-9074 The Drive » The fastest way to handiwork of giants. 1501; www.crumlinroadgaol. the causeway is to take the A26 This spectacular rock com; 53-55 Crumlin Rd; day north, through Ballymena, before formation – a national turning off at Ballymoney – a nature reserve and tour adult/child £8.50/6.50, total of 100km – but the longer Northern Ireland’s only (by 16km), more scenic route is Unesco World Heritage evening tour £7.50/5.50; to take the A8 to Larne and follow Site – is one of Ireland’s the coast through handsome most impressive and h10am-5.30pm, last tour 4.30pm, evening tour 6pm) and SS Nomadic opened to the public, and WWI warship HMS Caroline became a floating muse- DETOUR: GIANT’S CAUSEWAY TO BALLYCASTLE Start: 3 Giant’s Causeway Between the Giant’s Causeway and Ballycastle lies the most scenic stretch of the Causeway Coast, with sea cliffs of contrasting black basalt and white chalk, rocky islands, picturesque little harbours and broad sweeps of sandy beach. It’s best enjoyed on foot, following the 16.5km of waymarked Causeway Coast Way (www. walkni.com) between the Carrick-a-Rede car park and the Giant’s Causeway, although the main attractions can also be reached by car or bus. About 8km east of the Giant’s Causeway is the meagre ruin of 16th-century Dunseverick Castle, spectacularly sited on a grassy bluff. Another 1.5km on is the tiny seaside hamlet of Portbradden, with half a dozen harbourside houses and the tiny, blue-and-white St Gobban’s Church, said to be the smallest in Ireland. Visible from Portbradden and accessible via the next junction off the A2 is the spectacular White Park Bay, with its wide, sweeping sandy beach. The main attraction on this stretch of coast is the famous (or notorious, depending on your head for heights) Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (www.nationaltrust. org.uk; Ballintoy; adult/child £5.90/3; h9.30am-7pm Apr-Aug, to 6pm Mar, Sep & Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Feb). The 20m-long, 1m-wide bridge of wire rope spans the chasm between the sea cliffs and the little island of Carrick-a-Rede, swaying gently 30m above the rock- strewn water. 318

DETOUR: IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round HORN HEAD Start: 4 Dunfanaghy Horn Head has some of Donegal’s most spectacular coastal scenery and plenty of birdlife. Its dramatic quartzite cliffs, covered with bog and heather, rear over 180m high, and the view from their tops is heart-pounding. The road circles the headland; the best approach by car is in a clockwise direction from the Falcarragh end of Dunfanaghy. On a fine day, you’ll encounter tremendous views of Tory, Inishbofin, Inishdooey and tiny Inishbeg islands to the west; Sheep Haven Bay and the Rosguill Peninsula to the east; Malin Head to the northeast; and the coast of Scotland beyond. Take care in bad weather as the route can be perilous. atmospheric landscape 4 Dunfanaghy landscape is flat, the features, but it can get road flanked by fields, very crowded. If you can, Huddled around the hedge rows and clusters try to visit midweek or waterfront beneath the of farmhouses. Castlebar, out of season to experi- headland of Horn Head, 15km before Westport, is ence it at its most evoca- Dunfanaghy’s small, at- a busy county town. tive. Sunset in spring and tractive town centre has autumn is the best time a surprisingly wide range 5 4 p326 for photographs. of accommodation and The Drive » It’s 100km to some of the finest dining Visiting the Giant’s options in the county’s Westport, across the western Causeway itself is free northwest. Glisten- edge of County Clare – as you of charge but you pay ing beaches, dramatic follow the N17 (and the N5 to use the car park on a coastal cliffs, mountain once you pass Charlestown), combined ticket with the trails and forests are all the landscape is flat, the road within a few kilometres. flanked by fields, hedge rows Giant’s Causeway Visitor and clusters of farmhouses. Experience (%028-2073 5 p326 Castlebar, 15km before 1855; www.nationaltrust.org. The Drive » The 145km Westport, is a busy county town. uk; adult/child with parking £9/4.50, without parking south to Sligo town will take you TRIP HIGHLIGHT £7/3.25; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, back through Letterkenny (this to 6pm Feb, Mar & Oct, to 5pm stretch is the most scenic), after 6 Westport Nov-Jan); parking-only which you’ll follow the N13 as tickets aren’t available. far as Ballyshannon and then, as There’s a lot to be said for you cross into County Sligo, the town planning, especially 5 p326 N13 to Sligo town. if 18th-century architect James Wyatt was the The Drive » Follow the 5 Sligo Town brains behind the job. Westport (Cathair na A29 and A37 as far as Derry/ It’s 100km to Westport, Mairt), positioned on the Londonderry, then cross across the western edge River Carrowbeg and the the invisible border into the of County Clare – shores of Clew Bay, is eas- Republic and take the N13 to as you follow the N17 ily Mayo’s most beautiful Letterkenny before turning (and the N5 once you town and a major tourist northwest along the N56 to pass Charlestown), the destination for visitors to Dunfanaghy. It’s a total of this part of the country. 136km. 319

PATRYK KOSMIDER/GETTY IMAGES © MICHELLE MCMAHON/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP FIONN DAVENPORT, WRITER Not only are you covering the spectacular landscapes of mountains and jagged coastlines of the Wild Atlantic Way, but you can also explore the modern incarnation of the country’s earliest settlements, taking you from prehistoric monuments to bustling cities. Top: Thatched cottage, Doolin Left: Donkey, Inishmór Right: Cliffs of Moher

IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round It’s a Georgian classic, its octagonal square and JOHN ELK/GETTY IMAGES © tidy streets lined with trees and handsome buildings, most of which date from the late 18th century. The Drive » Follow the N84 as far as the outskirts of Galway city – a trip of about 100km. Take the N18 south into County Clare. At Kilcolgan, turn onto the N67 and into the heart of the Burren. 7 The Burren The karst landscape of the Burren is not the green Ireland of postcards. But there are wildflowers in spring, giving the 560-sq-km Burren brilliant, if ephemeral, colour amid its austere beauty. Soil may be scarce, but the small amount that gath- ers in the cracks and faults is well drained and nutrient-rich. This, together with the mild Atlantic climate, sup- ports an extraordinary mix of Mediterranean, Arctic and alpine plants. Of Ireland’s native wildflowers, 75% are found here, including 24 species of beautiful orchids, the creamy- white burnet rose, the little starry flowers of mossy saxifrage and the magenta-coloured bloody cranesbill. The Drive » It’s 36km southwest to Doolin along the R460 and R476 roads, which cut through more familiar Irish landscapes of green fields. The 321

IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round real pleasures along here are the that standards don’t al- the stunning stone fort villages – the likes of Kilfenora ways hold up to those in perched perilously on the and Lisdoonvarna are great for some of the less-trampled island’s towering cliffs. a pit stop and even a session of villages in Clare. traditional music. Powerful swells pound 4 p361 the 60m-high cliff face. 8 Doolin A complete lack of rails The Drive » Ferries from or other modern addi- Doolin is renowned as a tions that would spoil centre of Irish tradi- Doolin to Inishmór take about this amazing ancient tional music, but it’s also 90 minutes to make the site means that you can known for its setting – crossing. not only go right up to 6km north of the Cliffs of the cliff’s edge but also Moher – and down near TRIP HIGHLIGHT potentially fall to your the ever-unsettled sea, doom below quite easily. the land is windblown, 9 Inishmór When it’s uncrowded, with huge rocks exposed you can’t help but feel by the long-vanished A step (and boat- or the extraordinary energy topsoil. plane-ride) beyond that must have been har- the desolate beauty of nessed to build this vast Many musicians live in Connemara are the Aran site. the area, and they have Islands. Most visitors are a symbiotic relationship satisfied to explore only The arid landscape with the tourists: each Inishmór (Árainn) and west of Kilronan (Cill desires the other and its main attraction, Dún Rónáin), Inishmór’s main each year things grow Aengus (Dún Aonghasa; settlement, is dominated a little larger. But given www.heritageireland.ie/en/ by stone walls, boulders, the heavy concentration west/dunaonghasa/; adult/ scattered buildings and of visitors, it’s inevitable child €4/2; h9.30am-6pm the odd patch of deep- Apr-Oct, 9.30am-4pm Nov-Mar, green grass and potato closed Mon & Tue Jan & Feb), plants. DOOLIN’S MUSIC PUBS 4 p327, p361 The Drive » Once you’re Doolin’s three main music pubs (others are recent interlopers) are, in order of importance to the music back on terra firma at Doolin, scene: it’s 223km to Dingle via the N85 through Ennis as far as Limerick McGann’s (www.mcgannspubdoolin.com; Roadford; City. The N69 will take you into h10am-12.30am, kitchen 10am-9.30pm) McGann’s has all County Kerry as far as Tralee, the classic touches of a full-on Irish music pub; the beyond which it’s 50km on the action often spills out onto the street. The food here N86 to Dingle. is the best of the trio. a Dingle Gus O’Connor’s Pub (www.gusoconnorspubdoolin.net; Fisherstreet; h9am-midnight) Right on the water, this Unlike the Ring of Kerry, sprawling favourite packs them in and has a rollicking where the cliffs tend to atmosphere when the music and drinking are in full dominate the ocean, it’s swing. the ocean that domi- nates the smaller Dingle MacDiarmada’s (Roadford; hbar 11am-midnight, kitchen Peninsula. The opal-blue 9am-9.30pm) Also known as McDermott’s, this simple waters surrounding the red-and-white old pub can be the rowdy favourite of promontory’s multihued locals. When the fiddles get going, it can seem like a scene out of a John Ford movie. 322

landscape of green hills AN ANCIENT FORT IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round and golden sands give rise to aquatic adventures For a look at a well-preserved caher (walled fort) of and to fishing fleets that the late Iron Age to early Christian period, stop at haul in fresh seafood that Caherconnell Fort (www.burrenforts.ie; R480; adult/ appears on the menus of child €7/4, with sheepdog demo €9.60/5.60; h10am-6pm some of the county’s Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mar-Apr & Oct, 10am-5.30pm May, finest restaurants. June & Sept), a privately run heritage attraction that’s more serious than sideshow. Exhibits detail how the Centred on charming evolution of these defensive settlements may have Dingle town, there’s an reflected territorialism and competition for land alternative way of life among a growing, settling population. The drystone here, lived by artisans walling of the fort is in excellent condition. The top- and idiosyncratic char- notch visitor centre also has information on many acters and found at trad other monuments in the area. It’s about 1km south of sessions and folkloric Poulnabrone Dolman on the R480. festivals across Dingle’s tiny settlements. its most rugged between Kate Kearney’s Cottage is Waterville and Caherdan- a pub where most visitors The classic loop drive iel in the southwest of park their cars before around Slea Head from the peninsula. It can get walking up to the gap. Dingle town is 50km, but crowded in summer, but allow a day to take it all even then the remote c Kenmare in – longer if you have Skellig Ring can be un- time to stay overnight in crowded and serene – and If you’ve done the Ring in Dingle town. starkly beautiful. an anticlockwise fashion (or cut through the Gap 5 4 p313, p327 The Ring of Kerry can of Dunloe), you’ll end up The Drive » Take the N86 easily be done as a day in handsome Kenmare, a trip, but if you want to largely 18th-century town as far as Annascaul and stretch it out, places to and the ideal alternative then the coastal R561 as far stay are scattered along to Killarney as a place to as Castlemaine. Then head the route. Killorglin and stay overnight. southwest on the N70 to Kenmare have the best Killorglin and the Ring of Kerry. dining options, with 5 4 p313, p327 From Dingle, it’s 53km. some excellent restau- The Drive » Picturesque rants; elsewhere, basic b Ring of Kerry (sometimes very basic) villages, a fine stone circle and pub fare is the norm. calming coastal scenery mark The Ring of Kerry is the The Ring’s most popular the less-taken, 143km route longest and the most diversion is the Gap of from Kenmare to Cork city. diverse of Ireland’s big Dunloe, an awe-inspiring When you get to Leap, turn circle drives, combining mountain pass at the right onto the R597 and go as jaw-dropping coastal western edge of Kil- far as Rosscarbery; or, even scenery with emerald larney National Park. It’s better, take twice as long (even pastures and villages. signposted off the N72 though it’s only 24km more) between Killarney to and freelance your way along The 179km circuit usu- Killorglin. The incredibly narrow roads near the water the ally begins in Killarney popular 19th-century entire way. and winds past pristine beaches, the island-dotted Atlantic, medieval ruins, mountains and loughs (lakes). The coastline is at 323

P/EGTETRTUYNIMGEARG/EGSE©TTY IMAGES ©LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: THE HEALY PASS IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round Instead of going directly into County Cork along the N71 from Kenmare, veer west onto the R571 and drive for 16km along the northern edge of the Beara Peninsula. At Lauragh, turn onto the R574 and take the breathtaking Healy Pass Road, which cuts through the peninsula and brings you from County Kerry into County Cork. At Adrigole, turn left onto the R572 and rejoin the N71 at Glengarriff, 17km east. d Cork City TRIP HIGHLIGHT Ireland’s second city e Ardmore is first in every impor- tant respect, at least Because it’s off the main according to the locals, drag, Ardmore is a sleepy who cheerfully refer to seaside village and one of it as the ‘real capital of the southeast’s loveliest Ireland’. The compact spots – the ideal destina- city centre is surrounded tion for those looking for by interesting waterways a little waterside R&R. and is chock full of great restaurants fed by argu- St Declan reputedly set ably the best foodie scene up shop here sometime in the country. between AD 350 and 420, which would make Ard- 5 4 p327 more the first Christian bastion in Ireland – long The Drive » It’s only 60km before St Patrick landed. The village’s 12th- to Ardmore, but stop off in century round tower, one Midleton, 24km east of Cork of the best examples of along the N25, and visit the these structures in Ire- whiskey museum. Just beyond land, is the town’s most Youghal, turn right onto the distinctive architectural R671 for Ardmore. feature, but you should also check out the ruins of St Declan’s church and well, on a bluff above the village. 324

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Tourists cross the 30m-high bridge 325

Eating & Sleeping IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round Dublin 1 piW) Belfast’s most flamboyant Victorian building (the old Ulster Bank head office) 5 Fade Street Social Modern Irish €€ has been converted into the city’s most flamboyant boutique hotel, a fabulous fusion (%01-604 0066; www.fadestreetsocial.com; 4-6 of contemporary styling and old-fashioned Fade St; mains €19-32, tapas €5-12; h12.30- elegance, with individually decorated rooms. 10.30pm Mon-Fri, 5-10.30pm Sat & Sun; W; Luxe leisure facilities at its gymnasium and gall city centre) Two eateries in one, courtesy spa include an eight-person rooftop hot tub. Its of renowned chef Dylan McGrath: at the front, restaurant, Great Room (mains £19.50-28.50; the buzzy tapas bar, which serves up gourmet h7am-11pm), is magnificent. bites from a beautiful open kitchen. At the back, the more muted restaurant specialises in Irish Giant’s Causeway 3 cuts of meat – from veal to rabbit – served with home grown, organic vegetables. There’s a bar 5 55 Degrees North International ££ upstairs too. Reservations suggested. (%028-7082 2811; www.55-north.com; 1 4 Westbury Hotel Hotel €€€ Causeway St; mains £10-19; h12.30-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat, noon-8.30pm (%01-679 1122; www.doylecollection.com; Sun; vc) Floor-to-ceiling windows allow you to soak up a spectacular panorama of sand Grafton St; r/ste from €240/360; piW; gall and sea from this stylish restaurant. The food concentrates on clean, simple flavours. city centre) Tucked away just off Grafton St is one of the most elegant hotels in town, although you’ll need to upgrade to a suite to really feel the luxury. The standard rooms are perfectly comfortable but not really of the same theme as Dunfanaghy 4 the luxurious public space – the upstairs lobby is a great spot for afternoon tea or a drink. 5 Cove Modern Irish €€ Belfast 2 (%074-913 6300; www.thecoverestaurant donegal.com; off N56, Rockhill, Port-na-Blagh; 5 Ginger Bistro ££ dinner mains €17-25; h1-4pm Sun, 6.30-9pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year, (%028-9024 4421; www.gingerbistro.com; 6-8 closed Jan–mid-Mar) Owners Siobhan Sweeney Hope St; mains lunch £10-12.50, dinner £16-24; and Peter Byrne are perfectionists who tend to h5-9pm Mon, noon-3pm & 5-9.30pm Tue-Thu, every detail in Cove’s art-filled dining room, and noon-3pm & 5-10pm Fri & Sat; v) Ginger is on your plate. The cuisine is fresh and inventive. cosy and informal, but its food is anything Seafood specials are deceptively simple with but ordinary – the flame-haired owner/chef subtle Asian influences. After dinner, enjoy the (hence the name) really knows what he’s doing, elegant lounge upstairs. Book ahead. sourcing top-quality Irish produce and creating exquisite dishes such as tea-smoked duck Sligo Town 5 breast with ginger and sweet-potato puree. 4 Merchant Hotel Hotel £££ 5 Lyons Cafe Modern European € (%028-9023 4888; www.themerchanthotel. (%071-914 2969; www.lyonscafe.com; Quay com; 16 Skipper St; d/ste from £200/300; St; mains €7-15; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Sligo’s 326

flagship department store, Lyons, opened in Kenmare c 1878 – with original leadlight windows and squeaky timber floors – and has been going 5 Tom Crean Fish & Wine Irish €€ strong since 1923. At its airy 1st-floor cafe, acclaimed chef (and cookbook author) Gary (%064-664 1589; http://tomcrean.ie; Main Stafford offers a fresh and seasonal menu. St; 2-/3-course menus €25/29, mains €16.50; 4 Pearse Lodge B&B €€ h5-9.30pm Thu-Sun late-Mar–Dec; W) Named (%071-916 1090; www.pearselodge.com; Pearse for Kerry’s pioneering Antarctic explorer, Rd; s/d from €50/80; iW) Welcoming owners and run by his granddaughter, this venerable Mary and Kieron have four stylish guest rooms restaurant uses only the best of local organic with hardwood floors. The breakfast menu produce, cheeses and fresh seafood, all served IRELAND 23 The Long Way Round includes smoked salmon and French toast in modern, low-key surrounds. The oysters with bananas. A sunny sitting room opens to a au naturel capture the scent of the sea; the garden. It’s 700m southwest of the centre. homemade ravioli of prawn mousse, and sesame seed-crusted Atlantic salmon with lime and coriander are divine. Inishmór 7 4 Virginia’s Guesthouse B&B €€ 4 Kilmurvey House B&B €€ (%064-664 1021; www.virginias-kenmare.com; (%099-61218; www.kilmurveyhouse.com; Henry St; s/d from €40/75; W) You can’t get Kilmurvey; s/d from €50/90; hmid-Apr– more central than this award-winning B&B, mid-Oct) On the path leading to Dún Aengus whose creative breakfasts celebrate organic is this grand 18th-century stone mansion. local produce (rhubarb and blueberries in It’s a beautiful setting and the 12 rooms are season, for example, as well as fresh-squeezed well maintained. Hearty meals (dinner €30) OJ and porridge with whiskey). Its eight rooms incorporate vegetables from the garden, and are super-comfy without being fussy. local fish and meats. You can swim at a pretty beach that’s a short walk from the house. Cork City d Dingle a 5 Market Lane Irish, International €€ 5 Idás Irish €€€ (%021-427 4710; www.marketlane.ie; 5 Oliver Plunkett St; mains €10-25; hnoon-10pm (%066-915 0885; John St; mains €27-31; Mon-Thu, noon-10.30pm Fri & Sat, 1-9pm Sun; Wc) It’s always hopping at this bright h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun) Chef Kevin Murphy corner bistro. The menu is broad and hearty, changing to reflect what’s fresh at the English is dedicated to promoting the finest of Irish Market: perhaps braised ox cheek in ale, or smoked haddock with bacon and cabbage? No produce, much of it from Kerry, taking lamb reservations for fewer than six diners; sip a drink at the bar till a table is free. and seafood and foraged herbs from the Dingle peninsula and creating delicately flavoured concoctions such as braised John Dory fillet with fennel dashi cream, pickled cucumber, 4 Imperial Hotel Hotel €€ wild garlic and salad burnet. An early-bird menu offers two/three courses for €24.50/28.50. (%021-427 4040; www.flynnhotels.com; South 4 Pax House B&B €€ Mall; d €130-200; piW) Having recently (%066-915 1518; www.pax-house.com; Upper celebrated its bicentenary – Thackeray, John St; d from €120; hMar-Nov; piW) From Dickens and Sir Walter Scott have all stayed its highly individual decor to the outstanding here – the Imperial knows how to age gracefully. views over the estuary from room balconies and Public spaces resonate with period detail, terrace, Pax House is a treat. Choose from less while the 130 bedrooms feature writing desks, expensive hill-facing accommodation, rooms that understated decor and modern touches overlook the estuary, and two-room family suites including a luxurious spa and a digital music opening onto the terrace. It’s 1km southeast of library. Irish Free State commander-in-chief the town centre. Michael Collins spent his last night alive here; you can ask to check into his room. 327

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MARKUS GANN/SHUTTERSTOCK © 24Ring of Kerry Circumnavigating the Iveragh Peninsula, the Ring of Kerry is the longest and most diverse of Ireland’s prized peninsula drives, combining jaw-dropping cliffs with soaring mountains. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS J% 4 DAYS 202KM / 125 MILES 189 km # Killarney Muckross Estate GREAT FOR… Magnificent garden-set # #1#1 mansion, deer parks, BJ waterfall and abbey #10 BEST TIME TO GO # Late spring and early Rossbeigh autumn for temperate Strand weather free of summer crowds. ##7 # Kenmare I ESSENTIAL PHOTO Caherdaniel 158 km Aquatic activities Gap of Dunloe Ross Castle as galore and horse rides Rocky bridges cross you row a boat to along the beach crystal-clear streams Inisfallen. 90 km and lakes K BEST FOR WILDLIFE Killarney National Park, home to Ireland’s only wild herd of native red deer. WLoactaetrivoinlleCaCpotuionntydeCtoaailsstatol sgcoenherey 329

4¼R560 #\\ 4¼ FGDingle22 \\# #\\ N86 Ventry 24 Ring of Kerry Dingle Bay You can drive the Ring of Kerry in a day, but the Knocknadobar longer you spend, the more you’ll enjoy it. The circuit (688m) winds past pristine beaches, the island-dotted R Atlantic, medieval ruins, mountains and loughs, with Killelan the coastline at its most rugged between Waterville Mountain and Caherdaniel in the peninsula’s southwest. You’ll also find plenty of opportunities for serene, starkly (275m) beautiful detours, such as the Skellig Ring and the Cromane Peninsula. R #Cahersiveen \\#5 Knightstown H#Valentia \\# Island GFp333 4¼N70 #\\ Portmagee 22 4¼R565 #\\# 6\\# Waterville Ballinskelligs Bolus BallinBsakyelligs Head 1 Killarney site of some important Derrynane Bronze Age settle- Bay A town that’s been prac- ments, based on the tising the tourism game copper ore mined on Scariff for more than 250 years, Ross Island. Killarney Killarney is a well-oiled changed hands between Romantic poet Percy machine driven by the warring tribes, the most Bysshe Shelley, who be- sublime scenery of its notable of which were gan Queen Mab here. namesake national park, the Fir Bolg (‘Bag Men’), and competition keeps expert stonemasons who The town can easily standards high. Killarney built forts and devised be explored on foot in an nights are lively and Ogham script. It wasn’t hour or two, or you can most pubs put on live until the 17th century get around by taking a music. that Viscount Kenmare horse-drawn jaunting car. developed the town Killarney and its as an Irish version of 5 4 p313, p339 surrounds have been England’s Lake District. The Drive » From Killarney, inhabited probably since Among its notable the Neolithic period 19th-century tourists head 22km west to Killorglin and were certainly the were Queen Victoria and 330

Dingle Lougher ‚ 150 km to Mt Caherconree e# 0 10 km 4¼ GFPeninsula 0 5 miles #\\ 26 R (825m) #\\ R561 4¼Lispole Farranfore Annascaul N86 Inch #\\ Castlemaine \\# #\\ \\# Castlemaine Cromane Harbour 4¼ 4¼Inch Peninsula Annagh H#Point N22 Bog Killorglin R563 22 # FGCromane\\# p332 #\\2 # 4¼ J%RoSstrsabneidgh Glenbeigh 4¼N70 Lough N72 #\\ Caragh 3 Kerry Bog Village #Rossbeigh Strand Lough #]1 Killarney Leane #FGKells Bay 4 22 RMuseum IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry Seefin #Mountain Ross 12 Castle R (494m) Been Hill Glencar 4¼Kells \\# (668m) R Killarney N71 Carrauntoohil National 11 (1039m) Park Muckross 4¼ #R N70 \\# #Gap of Dunloe 10 Estate Coomacarrea KERRY (772m) R Iveragh \\# Moll's Gap Peninsula 4¼N71 4¼R568 Inny Deriana 4¼N70 4¼R569 \\# River Lough Kilgarvan #9\\# Kenmare Sneem \\# #\\8 Darreenafoyle # 4¼\\# Parknasilla \\# Lough #\\ N71 Currane Kenmare River Beara Peninsula Tahilla R RE(5a4g3lmes)Hill Barraboy Knockboy 4¼N70 Tuosist \\# R (706m) Knocknagorraveela Mtn R (412m) Caherdaniel #\\ (507m) #\\# #\\7 Castlecove R Coomnadiha #\\Lauragh (644m) CORK Derrynane Sugarloaf \\# Glengarriff Mtn Ardgroom #\\ R R Ballylickey Coomacloghane Knockowen (574m) R BaBnatyry #\\ (599m) (658m) along the N72, the southe#\\rn side LINK q Musical of which is framed by Ireland’s YOUR Landscapes highest mountain range, TRIP Macgillycuddy’s Reeks. The Drive about three hours mountains’ elegant forms were m Iconic Ireland north from Killarney carved by glaciers, with summits From Killarney, to Galway to start a buttressed by ridges of purplish pick up the trail north to quest for County Clare’s rock. The name derives from complete in reverse this hottest trad music spots. the ancient Mac Gilla Muchudas tour of the very best of clan; reek means ‘pointed hill’. Ireland’s attractions. In Irish, they’re known as Na Crucha Dubha (the Black Tops). 331

IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry 2 Killorglin the route until you reach of Ireland’s ubiquitous Kenmare. peat bogs. You’ll see the Killorglin (Cill Orglan) is thatched homes of the quieter than the waters 5 4 p339 turf cutter, blacksmith, of the River Laune that thatcher and labourer, as lap against its 1885-built The Drive » Killorglin sits at well as a dairy, and meet eight-arched bridge – rare Kerry Bog ponies. except in mid-August, the crossroads of the N72 and when there’s an explo- the N70; continue 13km along The Drive » It’s less than 1km sion of time-honoured the N70 to the Kerry Bog Village ceremonies at the famous Museum. from the museum to the village Puck Fair (Aonach an Phuic; of Glenbeigh; turn off here %066-976 2366; www.puck 3 Kerry Bog Village and drive 2km west to unique fair.ie), a pagan festival Museum Rossbeigh Strand. whose first recorded mention was in 1603. Between Killorglin and 4 Rossbeigh Strand A statue of King Puck Glenbeigh, the Kerry (a goat) peers out from Bog Village Museum This unusual beach is a the Killarney side of the (www.kerrybogvillage.ie; tendril of sand protrud- river. Ballincleave, Glenbeigh; adult/ ing into Dingle Bay, with child €6.50/4.50; h8.30am- views of Inch Point and Killorglin has some of 6pm; pc) re-creates a the Dingle Peninsula. On the finest eateries along 19th-century bog village, one side, the sea is ruf- the Ring. That said, typical of the small com- fled by Atlantic winds; on there’s not much com- munities that carved out the other, it’s sheltered petition along much of a precarious living in and calm. the harsh environment DETOUR: CROMANE PENINSULA Start: 2 Killorglin Open fields give way to spectacular water vistas and multihued sunsets on the Cromane Peninsula, with its tiny namesake village sitting at the base of a narrow shingle spit. Cromane’s exceptional restaurant, Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant (%066-976 9102; http://jackscromane.com; 2-/3-course menus €33/39, dinner mains €16.50-32.50; h6- 9pm Wed-Sat, 1-3.30pm & 6-9pm Sun, hrs may vary; pc), is a local secret and justifies the trip. Entering this 1866-built coastguard station feels like arriving at a low-key village pub, but a narrow doorway at the back of the bar leads to a striking, whitewashed contemporary space where lights glitter from midnight-blue ceiling panels, and there are stained glass and metallic fish sculptures, a pianist and huge picture windows overlooking the water. Seafood is the standout, but there’s also steak, roast lamb and a veggie dish of the day. Cromane is 9km from Killorglin. Heading southwest from Killorglin along the N70, take the second right and continue straight ahead until you get to the crossroads. Turn right; Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant is on your left. For more info on the area, visit www.cromane.net. 332

DETOUR: IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry VALENTIA ISLAND & THE SKELLIG RING Start: 5 Cahersiveen If you’re here between April and October, and you’re detouring via Valentia Island and the Skellig Ring, a ferry service (%087 241 8973; one way/return car €7/10, cyclist €2/3, pedestrian €1.50/2; h7.45am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun Jul & Aug, 7.45am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9.30pm Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct) from Reenard Point, 5km southwest of Cahersiveen, provides a handy shortcut to Knightstown on Valentia Island. The five-minute crossing departs every 10 minutes. Alternatively, there’s a bridge from Portmagee to Valentia Island. Crowned by Geokaun Mountain, 11km-long Valentia Island (Oileán Dairbhre) makes an ideal driving loop, with some lonely ruins that are worth exploring. Knightstown, the only town, has pubs, food and walks. The Skellig Experience (%066-947 6306; www.skelligexperience.com; adult/child €5/3, incl cruise €30/17.50; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm May, Jun & Sep, to 5pm Tue-Sat Mar, Apr, Oct & Nov; p) heritage centre, in a distinctive building with turf-covered barrel roofs, has informative exhibits on the Skellig Islands offshore. From April to September, it also runs two-hour cruises around the Skelligs. If the weather’s bad, there’s often the option of a 90-minute mini-cruise (€22/11, including museum entry) in the harbour and channel. Immediately across the bridge on the mainland, Portmagee’s single street is a rainbow of colourful houses. On summer mornings the small pier comes to life with boats embarking on the choppy crossing to the Skellig Islands. Portmagee holds set-dancing workshops (www.moorings.ie) over the May bank holiday weekend, with plenty of stomping practice sessions in the town’s Bridge Bar (hfood noon- 9pm), a friendly local gathering point that’s also good for impromptu music year- round and more formal sessions in summer. The wild and beautiful, 18km-long Skellig Ring road links Portmagee and Waterville via a Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area centred on Ballinskelligs (Baile an Sceilg), with the ragged outline of Skellig Michael never far from view. The Drive » Rejoin the N70 rather dour compared on the inside walls, a with the peninsula’s clochán (circular stone and continue 25km south to other settlements, but the building shaped like an Cahersiveen. atmospheric remains of old-fashioned beehive) 16th-century Ballycar- and the remains of a 5 Cahersiveen bery Castle, 2.4km along house. The smaller, 9th- the road to White Strand century Leacanabuile Cahersiveen’s popula- Beach from the town has an entrance to an tion – over 30,000 in centre, are well worth a underground passage. 1841 – was decimated by visit. Their inner walls and the Great Famine and chambers give a strong emigration to the New Along the same road sense of what life was World. A sleepy outpost are two stone ring forts. like in a ring fort. Leave remains, overshadowed The larger, Cahergall, your car in the park- by the 688m peak of dates from the 10th cen- ing area next to a stone Knocknadobar. It looks tury and has stairways 333

JORG GREUEL/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP CATHERINE LE NEVEZ, WRITER In a land criss-crossed with classic drives, the Ring of Kerry is perhaps the most classic of all. Now a key stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way, the Ring showcases Ireland’s most spectacular coastal scenery, its ancient and recent history, its low-ceilinged pubs with crackling turf fires and spontaneous, high- spirited trad-music sessions, and the Emerald Isle’s most engaging asset: its welcoming, warm-hearted locals. Above: Ross Castle, Killarney Left: Killarney National Park Right: Standing stones, Waterville

DESIGN PICS/THE IRISH IMAGE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES © wall and walk up the IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry footpaths. RICHARD CUMMINS/GETTY IMAGES © The Drive » From Cahersiveen you can continue 17km along the classic Ring of Kerry on the N70 to Waterville, or take the ultrascenic route via Valentia Island and the Skellig Ring, and rejoin the N70 at Waterville. 6 Waterville A line of colourful houses on the N70 between Lough Currane and Ballinskelligs Bay, Waterville is charm- challenged in the way of many mass-consumption beach resorts. A statue of its most famous guest, Charlie Chaplin, beams from the seafront. The Charlie Chaplin Comedy Film Festival (http:// chaplinfilmfestival.com) is held in August. Waterville is home to a world-renowned links golf course. At the north end of Lough Currane, Church Island has the ruins of a medieval church and beehive cell reputedly founded as a monastic settlement by St Finian in the 6th century. 4 p339 The Drive » Squiggle your way for 14km along the Ring’s most tortuous stretch, past plunging cliffs and soaring mountains, to Caherdaniel. 335

IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry TRIP HIGHLIGHT beach, mountain and eye to the wooded hills woodland horse treks for above town, may make 7 Caherdaniel all levels. you forget for a split second that Kenmare is a The scattered hamlet of The Drive » Wind your way seaside town. With rivers Caherdaniel counts two named Finnihy, Roughty of the Ring of Kerry’s east along the N70 for 21km to and Sheen emptying highlights: Derrynane Sneem. into Kenmare Bay, you National Historic Park, couldn’t be anywhere surrounded by sub- 8 Sneem other than southwest tropical gardens; and Ireland. bar-restaurant Scarriff Sneem’s Irish name, An Inn (%066-947 5132; http:// tSnaidhm, translates In the 18th century scarriffinn.com; Caherdaniel; to ‘the knot’, which is Kenmare was laid out to h9am-9pm, kitchen hrs vary), thought to refer to the an X-shaped plan, with a with its picture windows River Sneem that swirls, triangular market square framing what it plausibly knot-like, into nearby in the centre. Today the claims is ‘Ireland’s finest Kenmare Bay. inverted V to the south view’ over rugged cliffs is the focus. Kenmare and islands. Take a gander at the Bay stretches out to the town’s two cute squares, southwest, and there Most activity here then pop into the Blue are glorious views of the centres on the Blue Flag Bull (%064-664 5382; South mountains. beach. Derrynane Sea Sq; mains €17-29; hfood Sports (%087 908 1208; noon-2pm & 6-9.30pm), a Signposted south- www.derrynaneseasports.com; perfect little old stone west of the square is an Derrynane Beach) organ- pub, for a pint. early Bronze Age stone ises sailing, canoeing, circle, one of the biggest surfing, windsurfing and 4 p339 in southwest Ireland. water-skiing (from €40 The Drive » Along the 27km Fifteen stones ring a per person), as well as boulder dolmen, a burial equipment hire (around drive to Kenmare, the N70 drifts monument rarely found €10 per hour). Eagle away from the water to coast outside this part of the along under a canopy of trees. country. Rock Equestrian Centre (%066-947 5145; www. 9 Kenmare 5 4 p313, p339 eaglerockcentre.com; Bally- The Drive » The coastal carnahan; per hr €35) offers The copper-covered lime- stone spire of Holy Cross scenery might be finished, but, Church, drawing the if anything, the next 23km are even more stunning as you head TOP TIP: north from Kenmare to the Gap AROUND (AND ACROSS) of Dunloe on the vista-crazy THE RING N71, winding between rock and lake, with plenty of lay-bys Tour buses travel anticlockwise around the Ring, and (shoulders) to stop and admire authorities generally encourage visitors to drive in the views (and recover from the the same direction to avoid traffic congestion and switchback bends). accidents. If you travel clockwise, watch out on blind corners. There’s little traffic on the Ballaghbeama TRIP HIGHLIGHT Gap, which cuts across the peninsula’s central highlands and has some spectacular views. a Gap of Dunloe Just west of Killarney National Park, the Gap 336

KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK Designated a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in 1982, Killarney National Park (www. killarneynationalpark.ie) is among the finest of Ireland’s national parks. And while its proximity to one of the southwest’s largest and liveliest urban centres (including pedestrian entrances right in Killarney’s town centre) is an ongoing threat due to high visitor numbers, it’s an important conservation area for many rare species. Within its 102 sq km is Ireland’s only wild herd of native red deer, which has lived here continuously for 12,000 years, as well as the country’s largest area of ancient oak woods and views of most of its major mountains. IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry The glacial Lough Leane (the Lower Lake or ‘Lake of Learning’), Muckross Lake and the Upper Lake make up about a quarter of the park. Their peaty waters are as rich in wildlife as the surrounding land: cormorants skim across the surface, deer swim out to graze on islands, and salmon, trout and perch prosper in a pike-free environment. Lough Leane has vistas of reeds and swans. With a bit of luck, you might see white-tailed sea eagles, with their 2.5m wingspan, soaring overhead. The eagles were reintroduced here in 2007 after more than 100 years of local extinction. There are now more than 50 in the park and they’re starting to settle in Ireland’s rivers, lakes and coastal regions. And like Killarney itself, the park is also home to plenty of summer visitors, including migratory cuckoos, swallows and swifts. TRiInPcHKluIeGdeHipnLIgGyHotThuer eyes peeled, too, for the park’s smallest residents – its insects, south northern emerald dragonfly, which isn’t normally found this far in Europe and is believed to have been marooned here after the last ice age. of Dunloe is ruggedly then right again at the bends are nerve-testing. beautiful. In the winter crossroads (about 13km It’s worth walking or it’s an awe-inspiring from the N71 all up). taking a jaunting car (or, mountain pass, over- A simple 19th-century if you’re carrying two shadowed by Purple hunting lodge, it has wheels, cycling) through Mountain and Macgilly- an open-air cafe and a the Gap, however: the cuddy’s Reeks. In high dock for boats crossing scenery is a fantasy of summer it’s a bottleneck Killarney National Park’s rocky bridges over clear for the tourist trade, Upper Lake. From here mountain streams and with buses ferrying a (very) narrow road lakes. Alternatively, countless visitors here weaves up the hill to the there are various options for horse-and-trap rides Gap – theoretically you for exploring the Gap through the Gap. can drive this 8km route from Killarney. to the 19th-century pub On the southern side, The Drive » Continue on the surrounded by lush, Kate Kearney’s Cottage green pastures, is Lord (%064-664 4146; www. N71 north through Killarney Brandon’s Cottage (Gear- katekearneyscottage.com; National Park to Muckross hameen, Beaufort; dishes mains €11-23.50; hfood Estate (32km). noon-8pm; pc) and €3-8; h8am-3pm Apr-Oct), back but only outside TRIP HIGHLIGHT accessed by turning summer. Even then left at Moll’s Gap on the walkers and cyclists b Muckross Estate R568, then taking the have right of way, and first right, another right the precipitous hairpin The core of Killarney Na- at the bottom of the hill, tional Park is Muckross 337

IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry Estate, donated to the (%064-663 0804; www. case, every step of which state by Arthur Bourn muckross-house.ie; adult/child is a different height in Vincent in 1932. Muck- €9/6, incl Muckross House order to break an at- ross House (%064-667 €15/10.50; h10am-6pm Jun- tacker’s stride. Access is 0144; www.muckross-house. Aug, 1-6pm May & Sep, 1-6pm by guided tour only. ie; adult/child €9/6, incl Sat & Sun Apr & Oct). These Muckross Traditional Farms reproductions of 1930s You can hire boats €15/10.50; h9am-7pm Jul & Kerry farms, complete (around €5) from Ross Aug, to 5.30pm Sep-Jun; p) is with chickens, pigs, cat- Castle to row out to a 19th-century mansion, tle and horses, re-create Inisfallen, the largest restored to its former farming and living condi- of Killarney National glory and packed with tions when people had to Park’s 26 islands. The period fittings. Entrance live off the land. first monastery on is by guided tour. Inisfallen is said to have The Drive » Continuing a been founded by St The beautiful gardens Finian the Leper in the slope down, and a block further 2km north through the 7th century. The island’s behind the house con- national park brings you to fame dates from the early tains a restaurant, craft historic Ross Castle. 13th century when the shop and studios where Annals of Inisfallen were you can see potters, c Ross Castle written here. Now in the weavers and bookbinders Bodleian Library at Ox- at work. Jaunting cars Restored by Dúchas, ford, they remain a vital wait to run you through Ross Castle (%064-663 source of information on deer parks and woodland 5851; www.heritageireland. early Munster history. to Torc Waterfall and ie; Ross Rd; adult/child €4/2; Inisfallen shelters the Muckross Abbey (about h9.30am-5.45pm early ruins of a 12th-century €20 each, return; hag- Mar-Oct; p) dates back to oratory with a carved Ro- gling can reap discounts). the 15th century, when manesque doorway and a The visitor centre has an it was a residence of the monastery on the site of excellent cafe. O’Donoghues. It was the St Finian’s original. last place in Munster to Adjacent to Muckross succumb to Cromwell’s The Drive » It’s just 3km House are the Muck- forces, thanks partly to its cunning spiral stair- north from Ross Castle back to ross Traditional Farms Killarney. 338

Eating & Sleeping Killarney 1 Brookhaven House, run by a friendly family, with spick-and-span rooms, comfy beds and a sunny 4 Aghadoe sea-view breakfast room. Heights Hotel Luxury Hotel €€€ Sneem 8 (%064-663 1766; www.aghadoeheights.com; 4 Parknasilla Resort & Spa Hotel €€ Aghadoe; d/f/ste from €249/319/390, bar mains (%064-667 5600; www.parknasillaresort. IRELAND 24 Ring of Kerry com; Parknasilla; d/f/ste from €139/179/229; €15-29.50; hbar 11am-9.30pm; piWs) piWs) This hotel has been wowing guests (including George Bernard Shaw) since 1895 A huge, glassed-in swimming pool overlooking with its pristine resort on the tree-fringed shores of the Kenmare River with views to the the lakes is the centrepiece of this stunning Beara Peninsula. From the modern, luxuriously appointed bedrooms to the top-grade spa, contemporary hotel, but you can also soak private 12-hole golf course and elegant restaurant, everything here is done just right. up the views from the bar and Lake Room It’s 3km southeast of Sneem. Restaurant (mains €21-38; h6.30-9.30pm; c), both of which are open to nonguests, as is the decadent spa, with 11 treatment rooms and four-chamber thermal suite. Heavenly beds have memory foam mattresses. Killorglin 2 5 Bianconi Irish €€ Kenmare 9 (%066-976 1146; www.bianconi.ie; Bridge St; 5 Horseshoe Pub Food €€ mains €14.50-25; h8am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, (%064-664 1553; www.thehorseshoekenmare. 8am-12.30am Fri & Sat, 6-11pm Sun; Wc) com; 3 Main St; mains €14-26; hkitchen 5-10pm Bang in the centre of town, this Victorian-style Thu-Mon) Flower baskets brighten the entrance pub has a classy ambience and an equally to this popular gastropub, which has a short but classy menu. Its spectacular salads, such as excellent menu that runs from Kenmare Bay Cashel blue cheese, apple, toasted almonds mussels in creamy apple cider sauce to braised and chorizo, are a meal in themselves. Upstairs, Kerry lamb on mustard mash. newly refurbished guest rooms (doubles from €110) have olive and truffle tones and luxurious 5 Tom Crean Fish & Wine Irish €€ bathrooms (try for a roll-top tub). S(%t; 20-/634--c6o6u4rs1e58m9e;nhuttsp€:/2/5tCo/a2mp9tci,ormenCaanainp.itseio;€nM1C6aa.ip5nt0io;nCaption 4 Coffey’s River’s Edge B&B € h5-9.30pm Thu-Sun late-Mar–Dec; W) Named (%066-976 1750; www.coffeysriversedge.com; for Kerry’s pioneering Antarctic explorer, Lower Bridge St; s/d €50/70; pW) You can sit and run by his granddaughter, this venerable out on the balcony overlooking the River Laune restaurant uses only the best of local organic at this contemporary B&B with spotless spring- produce, cheeses and fresh seafood, all served toned rooms and hardwood floors. Central in modern, low-key surrounds. location next to the bridge. 4 Virginia’s Guesthouse B&B €€ Waterville 6 (%064-664 1021; www.virginias-kenmare.com; Henry St; s/d from €40/75; W) You can’t get 4 Brookhaven House B&B €€ more central than this award-winning B&B, (%066-947 4431; www.brookhavenhouse. whose creative breakfasts celebrate organic com; New Line Rd; d €80-120; pW) The pick local produce (rhubarb and blueberries in of Waterville’s B&Bs is the contemporary season, for example, as well as fresh-squeezed OJ and porridge with whiskey). 339

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SLOW IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES © The North in a 25Nutshell The North’s must-do trip takes in unmissable cities and big-name sights. It also heads off the tourist trail, revealing secret beaches, quaint harbours, waterfalls and music-filled pubs. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 110 km 10 DAYS Giant's Causeway 470KM / 292 MILES 455 km An extraordinary Arranmore Island outcrop of ancient, GREAT FOR… A castaway island geometric rock where music plays into BJ the night #Horn Mamore's ##4 BEST TIME TO GO Gap Head ! lL##1 March to June and September mean # 1#3 good weather but fewer crowds. #1#7 #Derry I ESSENTIAL Km# PHOTO Glencolumbcille Crossing the Carrick- Carrigart Belfast a-Rede Rope Bridge Ride horseback Experience the as it swings above the across wide, transformed capital of waves. golden sands the North 370 km 0 km K BEST FOR BLoacllaytciaosntlCeaSputinosnedt eotnaitlhsetohagrobhoeurre SCENERY Stops 16 to 20 head into the heart of wild, wind-whipped Donegal. 341

25 The North in a Nutshell On this road-trip-to-remember you’ll drive routes that cling to cliffs, cross borders and head high onto mountain passes. You’ll witness Ireland’s turbulent past and its inspiring path to peace. And you’ll also explore rich faith, folk and music traditions, ride a horse across a sandy beach, cross a swaying rope bridge and spend a night on a castaway island. Not bad for a 10-day drive. Malin Head e# 0 40 km 0 20 miles Glenevin #Fanad Head Waterfall Ballyliffin SLwouilglhyc #\\ Horn 9 #\\ ATLANTIC Clonmany #\\ Carndonagh OCEAN Head Tory #15 Mamore's Glentogher #\\ Sound Dunfanaghy #\\ Carrigart 4¼\\# Gap 4¼\\# Moville #\\ R238 #1\\#3 R2#\\40 # 4¼ # 4¼ 4¼# 4¼4¼4¼# 4¼## ## 4¼ 4¼ArranIsmlaonrdeM1#\\e7 en#\\aBRl2eu59rctGkownG1pe6oCoerrrd#\\tFotaoal#\\hlrlyceoarDkrrNua5#\\6ngRlh#\\#\\ewCMyMr(eo6ueu7M(Rc70snk5tlmtoi2asEum)ihrnNgr5)6hi#\\gRaC1al4DathsotmeleeltMNo5R6Rinl2#\\fa4o5tRr12h#\\d415mullBaN11\\#nu23 rn1f#\\0o#]oFB#\\tBau#\\uhrtnacDnrea^#7rn8r#\\ayMIsRu2kQ3\\#f8afuPhiogeilneeytn'sAL2Foouygleh \\# Dungloe#\\ Letterkenny #\\ H# 4¼Gweebarra #\\ 4¼Bay #Narin 1#\\8 4¼R261 Doochary DONEGAL \\#Claudy #\\ N13 #\\Fintown Finn Dunnamanagh p350 Raphoe #\\ #\\ Mt Sawel Valley (678m) R N56 Aghla ]# Strabane Mountain Stranorlar Sperrin R (598m) Ballybofey \\##\\ #\\ 4¼ Mountains Glenties A5 Castlefin #\\ #Maghera #\\ 19 #\\Ardara #\\ Plumbridge Newtownstewart KmGlencolumbcille Assarancagh Blue Stack 4¼N15 #\\ #2\\#0 4¼R230 Waterfall Mountains GFoorrteisnt GPalernk #÷R M(54u2llmag)hcarn Castlederg#\\ #\\ 4¼TYRONE A505 Creggan Malin#\\ #\\ Inver 4¼N56 ]# Donegal Beg #\\ Omagh #] Carrick #\\ #\\ Bruckless Dunkineely #\\ GFRossnowlagh Pettigo #\\ 23 #\\ #\\Kesh Dromore 4¼A5 LouLgohwEerrne #\\ \\# Ballyshannon \\# Fintona Bundoran ]# \\# Irvinestown \\# Ballygawley #\\ Mullaghmore \\# FERMANAGH Belleek \\# #\\ \\#

£17.50/7.25; h9am-7pm dock where the liner was TRIP HIGHLIGHT Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & fitted out. 1 Belfast Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) is a The Drive » As you drive the stunning multisensory In bustling, big-city experience: see bustling M3/M2 north, the now-familiar Belfast, the past is shipyards, join crowds H&W cranes recede. Take the palpably present – walk A26 through Ballymena; soon the city’s former sectar- at Titanic’s launch, feel the Antrim Mountains loom ian battlegrounds for a temperatures drop as large to the right. Skirt them profound way to start she strikes that iceberg, along the A44 into Ballycastle, exploring the North’s and look through a glass 96km from Belfast. story. Next, cross the River Lagan and head floor at watery footage of 5 4 p326 to the Titanic Quarter. Dominated by the tower- the vessel today. Slightly ing yellow Harland and IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshellto the west, don’t miss Wolff (H&W) cranes, it’s the Thompson Graving 2 Ballycastle where RMS Titanic was Antrim MountainsDock (www.titanicsdock. built. Titanic Belfast com; Queen’s Rd; graving dock Head beyond the sandy (www.titanicbelfast.com; beach to the harbour at Queen’s Rd; adult/child admission free, pump house the appealing resort of Ballycastle. From here, adult/child £5/3.50; h10am- daily ferries (%028-2076 9299; www.rathlinballycastle 5pm Sat-Thu, 9.30am-5pm Fri), where you descend ferry.com; adult/child/bicycle into the immense dry #\\ Rathlin r]#eturn £12/6/3.30) depart Island for Rathlin Island, where you’ll see sea stacks and #\\ Shrove # 4¼ # #4¼#Po#\\5rtrPu#\\soChraGtAsu2iatsenewtw#\\4'asBaruytBsWhaPBmlahlairniiyktltleso#\\CyRa3Bro1r5pice#\\k2B-arB-iRdagleledyceastle CNhaonrtnhel thousands of guillemots, Downhill k\\# ittiwakes, razorbills and puffins. #\\ 4 p351 FG23 4¼#\\ Coleraine Armoy #\\ #\\ Cushendun LINK A44 #\\ Waterfoot YOUR #\\ Limavady Ballymon#\\ey TRIP #6 Roe Valley #÷ Glenariff m Iconic Ireland Forest Park Trip down to Dublin 4¼B68 #\\ Garvagh Clogh (four hours via the N3) to #\\ #\\ Martinstown #\\ add the best of the south’s attractions to your northern Dungiven #\\ Kilrea Glenarm jaunt. DERRY #\\ Broughshane 4¼A2 n The Long Way Round #\\ R Slemish From Glencolumbcille head R Portglenone #\\ #\\ (438m) Larne \\# 53km west to Donegal to com\\#plete the west and Mullaghmore #\\ Maghera Ballymena south legs of this coastal (554m) to\\#ur of vibrant port cities 4¼R #\\ Kells and island treasures. #\\ Draperstown Ballynure A26 #\\ Slieve Randalstown #\\ #\\ #\\ Gallion R #\\ (528m) ANTRIM #\\ Ballyclare 4¼A54 4¼Antrim \\# M2 \\# Moneymore Lough Neagh Ll#\\ Kildress#\\ \\# Cookstown ##\\ Pomeroy Newtownabbey \\# Crumlin #\\ Belfast #_1 \\# Coalisland FGDunmurry #\\ 23 Dungannon #\\ ARMAGH Lisburn \\# DOWN 137 km to 4¼M1 Lurgan 343 GF#\\ \\# #] ‚ Portadown ]# 22 Craigavon #\\ #\\ #\\

IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell The Drive » Pick up the put an end to fishing, hardened from the top however. and bottom inwards. B15 towards Ballintoy, which It contracted, and the meanders up to a gorse-dotted The Drive » The B15, then the hexagonal cracks spread coastal plateau where hills part as the rock solidified. to reveal bursts of the sea. As A2, snake west along clifftops the road plunges downwards, and past views of White Park Entry to the Causeway take the right turn to the Bay’s sandy expanse. Swing site is free, but to use the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge right onto the B146, passing National Trust car park (10km). Dunseverick Castle’s fairy-tale you’ll need to buy a ticket tumblings, en route to the that includes entrance to 3 Carrick-a-Rede Giant’s Causeway (11km). the excellent new Giant’s Rope Bridge Causeway Visitor Experi- TRIP HIGHLIGHT ence (%028-2073 1855; www. The Carrick-a-Rede Rope nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child Bridge (www.nationaltrust. 4 Giant’s Causeway with parking £9/4.50, without org.uk; Ballintoy; adult/child parking £7/3.25; h9am-7pm £5.90/3; h9.30am-7pm Stretching elegantly out Apr-Sep, to 6pm Feb, Mar & Oct, Apr-Aug, to 6pm Mar, Sep & from a rugged shore, the to 5pm Nov-Jan). Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Feb) loops Giant’s Causeway (www. across a surging sea to a nationaltrust.org.uk; hdawn- 5 p326 tiny island 20m offshore. dusk) is one of the world’s This walkway of planks true geological wonders. The Drive » Continue west, and wire rope sways Clambering around this some 30m above the jetty of fused geometric through Bushmills, with its waves, testing your nerve rock chunks, it’s hard to famous distillery, picking up and head for heights. The believe it’s not man- the A2 Coastal Causeway route bridge was originally put made. Indeed, legend towards Portrush. You’ll pass up each year by salmon says Irish giant Finn Mc- wind-pruned trees, crumbling fishermen to help them Cool built the Causeway Dunluce Castle and Portrush’s set their nets, and signs to cross the sea to fight long sandy beaches before along the 1km clifftop Scottish giant Benan- arriving at Portstewart (16km). hike to the bridge detail donner. More prosaically, the fascinating process. however, scientists tell 5 Portstewart Declining stocks have us the 60-million-year- old rocks were formed Time for some unique when a flow of molten parking. Head through basaltic lava cooled and resort-town Portstewart, following signs for the CAUSEWAY COAST WALKS Strand (beach). Ever- sandier roads descend The official Causeway Coast Way (www.walkni.com) to an immense shoreline stretches for 53km from Ballycastle to Portstewart, that doubles as a car park but individual chunks can be walked whenever you for 1000 vehicles. It’s a feel like stretching your legs. Day hikes include the decidedly weird experi- supremely scenic 16.5km section between Carrick- ence to drive and park a-Rede and the Giant’s Causeway – one of the finest (£5) on an apparently coastal walks in Ireland. Shorter options also abound, endless expanse of hard- including a 2km ramble around Portrush, a 1.5km packed sand. It’s also stroll on sandy White Park Bay and a 300m scramble at your own risk, which around ruined Dunluce Castle. doesn’t deter the locals (but do stick to cen- tral, compacted areas). Nearby, a 1km walking 344

trail meanders up a sand TOP TIP: IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell ladder, through huge THE BORDER dunes and past marram grass and occasional Driving 20 minutes north out of Derry will see you orchids. entering another country: the Republic of Ireland. Be aware that road sign speed limits will suddenly 4 p351 change from mph to km/h, while wording switches The Drive » Take the A2 west, from English to Irish and English. Stock up on euros in Derry or visit the first post-border ATM. through Coleraine towards Downhill. About 1km after the 7 Derry Ireland’s most significant Mussenden Temple’s dome historical themes: the appears, take the Bishop’s Northern Ireland’s poverty that led to mass Rd left up steep hills with second city offers another migration and the con- spectacular Lough Foyle views. powerful insight into sequences of sectarian Descend, go through Limavady the North’s troubled violence. One gravestone and onto the B68 (signed past and the remarkable among many is that of Dungiven). Soon a brown steps towards peace. the McKinney family, Country Park sign points to Roe It’s best experienced on recording a string of Valley (42km). foot. Drop into the Tower children dying young: at Museum (www.derrycity.gov. 13 years, 11 months, nine 6 Roe Valley uk/museums; Union Hall Pl; months, and six weeks. adult/child £4/2; h10am- It also bears the name This beguiling coun- 5.30pm). Its imaginative of 34-year-old James try park (h9am-dusk) Story of Derry exhibition Gerard McKinney, one is packed with rich leads you through the of 13 unarmed civilians reminders of a key Irish city’s history, from the shot dead when British industry: linen produc- 6th-century monastery troops opened fire on tion. The damp valley of St Colmcille (Columba) demonstrators on Bloody was ideal for growing the to the 1960s Battle of the Sunday, 1972. flax that made the cloth; Bogside. the fast-flowing water The Drive » Rejoin the R238 powered the machinery. 5 4 p351 The Green Lane Museum north, turning onto the R240 to (h1-4.30pm Sat-Thu May-Aug, The Drive » The A2 heads Carndonagh, climbing steeply Sat & Sun Sep), near the car into rounded summits. After park, features sowing north towards Moville. Soon quaint Ballyliffin and Clonmany, fiddles, flax breakers and speed-limit signs switch from pick up the Inis Eoghain (Scenic spinning wheels. Look mph to km/h: welcome to the Route) towards Mamore’s Gap, out for nearby watchtow- Republic of Ireland. Shortly after before parking at the Glen ers, built to guard linen Muff take the small left turn, House Tea Rooms (40km). spread out to bleach in signed Iskaheen, up the hill. Park the fields, and Scutch beside Iskaheen church (11km). 9 Glenevin Mills, where the flax was Waterfall pounded. 8 Iskaheen Welcome to Butler’s The Drive » Head back into It’s completely off the Bridge – from here a tourist trail, but Iskaheen 1km trail winds beside Limavady to take the A2 west church’s tiny graveyard a stream through a to Derry (28km). Green fields offers evidence of two of wooded glen to Glenevin give way to suburbs, then city streets. 345

DEIRDRE GREGG/GETTY IMAGES © STEPHEN SAKS/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP ISABEL ALBISTON, WRITER Starting in Belfast, a city whose turbulent history seems finally to be coming second to its flourishing future, this trip gives a sense of the north’s past and present while showcasing a stunning and ancient natural landscape – the striking hexagonal rocks of the Giant’s Causeway date back 60 million years. Top: Portstewart Strand Left: Tower Museum, Derry Right: Lighthouse, Arranmore Island

IRELAND 25 The North in a NutshellWaterfall, which cascades 10m down the rock face. TRISH PUNCH/GETTY IMAGES © It’s an utterly picturesque, gentle, waymarked route that’s the perfect spot for a leg stretch. 4 p351 The Drive » The Inis Eoghain snakes south up to Mamore’s Gap, a high-altitude, white- knuckle mountain pass that climbs 260m on single-lane, twisting roads, past shrines to the saints. After a supremely steep descent (and glorious views), go south through Buncrana, and on to Fahan (37km), parking beside the village church. a Fahan St Colmcille founded a monastery in Fahan in the 6th century. Its creeper-clad ruins sit beside the church. Among them, hunt out the beautifully carved St Mura Cross. Each face of this 7th-century stone slab is decorated with a cross in intri- cate Celtic weave. The barely discernible Greek inscription is the only one known in Ireland from this early Christian period and is thought to be part of a prayer dating from 633. The Drive » Take the N13 to Letterkenny, where you’ll pick up the R245 to Rathmelton (aka Ramelton), a 10km sweep north through the River Swilly valley. Turn off for the village, heading downhill to park beside the water in front of you (50km). 347

IRELAND 25 The North in a Nutshell b Rathmelton c Rathmullan Bay and around Fanad Head. It then hugs the (ironically) In this picture-perfect Refined, tranquil Rath- narrow Broad Water en route to town, rows of Georgian mullan was the setting Carrigart (74km), with its village- houses and rough-walled for an event that shaped centre horse-riding centre. stone warehouses curve modern Ireland. In 1607 along the River Lennon. a band of nobles boarded TRIP HIGHLIGHT Strolling right takes you a ship here, leaving with to a string of three-storey, the intention of raising d Carrigart three-bay Victorian ware- an army to fight the houses; walking back and occupying English. But Most visitors scoot left up Church Rd leads they never returned. straight through laid- to the ruined Tullyaugh- Known as the Flight of back Carrigart, heading nish Church, with its the Earls, it marked the for the swimming beach Romanesque carvings in end of the Irish (Catholic) at Downings (there’s also the eastern wall. Walking chieftains’ power. Their accommodation there; left beside the river leads estates were confiscated, see p351). But they miss past Victorian shops to paving the way for the a real treat: a horse ride the three-arched, late- Plantation of Ulster with on a vast beach. The 18th-century Rathmelton British (Protestant) set- Carrigart Riding Centre Bridge. tlers. Beside the sandy (%087 227 6926; per hr adult/ beach, look for the strik- child €20/15) is just across 4 p351 ing modern sculpture the main street from depicting the departure sandy, hill-ringed Mulroy The Drive » Cross the town of the earls, waving to Bay, meaning you can their distressed people as head straight onto the bridge, turning right (north) they left. beach for an hour-long for Rathmullan. The hills of the ride amid the shallows Inishowen Peninsula rise ahead The Drive » Head straight and the dunes. Trips go and Lough Swilly swings into on the hour, but it’s best view – soon you’re driving right on from the harbour, picking to book. beside the shore. At Rathmullan up Fanad/Atlantic Dr, a roller- (11km), make for the harbour coaster road that surges up The Drive » Head south car park. Lough Swilly’s shore, round huge Knockalla, past the exquisite for Creeslough. An inlet with a beach at Ballymastocker creamy, single-towered castle soon pops into view. The turn- NORTH WEST 200 ROAD RACE off comes on the plain, where brown signs point through narrow lanes and past farms to Doe Castle (12km) itself. Driving this delightful coast can have its challenges, e Doe Castle so imagine doing it at high speed. Each May the world’s best motorcyclists do just that, going as The best way to fast as 300km/h in the North West 200 (www. appreciate the charm of northwest200.org), which is run on a road circuit early-16th-century Doe taking in Portrush, Portstewart and Coleraine. This Castle is to wander the classic race is Ireland’s biggest outdoor sporting peaceful grounds, admir- event and one of the last to take place on closed ing its slender tower and public roads anywhere in Europe. It attracts up to crenellated battlements. 150,000 spectators; if you’re not one of them, it’s The castle was the best to avoid the area on the race weekend. stronghold of the Scottish MacSweeney family until 348