PDF EUROPE’S BEST TRIPS 40 AMAZING ROAD TRIPS PDF ebook Edition 1st Edition Release Date Mar 2017 Pages 596 Useful Links WHeaandt tmo ooruer sghuoidpes? TTrroouubblleeswhiotohtyhoeurer PDF? HNeeaeddtmo ooruer FhAeQlps? SCtoanytaincttuosuhcehre © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
1 PLAN YOUR TRIPStart your planning here – We reveal the ultimate road trip list for Europe PLUS the highlights you’ll discover on the way and practical advice to kick-start your trip… IRYNA1/SHUTTERSTOCK © Europe’s best sights and IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK © EUROPE Ireland Great Britain France experiences, and the road trips AGNIESZKA SKALSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Tptdirmshnihertcaaevuittltemuuslelnairrmcaireen-ntes-e.ipscrbslIoaltcorae’slesofddntnovcadipedaisprludrillyneldabea,gglsdchvie,geeaiiehsllntiiwttvofdofeesur.trylhs,e Fqmmf2rru1ooooasnmmotin-urcstcmGe.l,vnieeBffiotnlur-lrtbaigrstgayiaaaeciansknnr,edtabtd.owrocsahihhlsidoitsts,rteeowcesrtviiualecdrrneydtthoing Ffcmbcwadrahimaeasfoaelntrriilrklgcltkodieeehaes-trtdrcssrwfleacuauadhuclsnpuleeslydtrcsouae,esulrrcvasttteeichsw,lneiwleadai-irtoccpegchuv.eldhaeHr-arinstttieaqsevdraoiuceunermtsaoeu.trjeudoorehenouodrawninsdd you there. BY REGION that will take EUROPE IFLYIKOEU Outdoor activities Alpine mountains along the Grossglockner Road Germany HtvAchirennrorodeweuyatnaghlrhljedaacsmgrhgoauaeunjrdendnsdcitmnlisicgefftodRswri.heyhivbinaroellopvskoniolcallaasksg,etevslsae.sst HIGHLIGHTS Wine tasting Douro Valley Food & Wine Switzerland Aerhcthitecture G4jro|eat Views A1rr}tBaEociRbGtrnomcfeubbyicaoRtarloemtturoeThhebsorpemhGehsnooPauimobpshenuialbteaslerepeutitaqrirderstuipgeebleuonCelsemalinmwctugairtlmTcdioadnrreengthtarLNeesiergtionneheiioannsnigoeietunsdâonaimrpodkpcmesr.iadqgnvsnhnfrtlengs.urccandeaeu–atodmEgoaaotHoileloslnd’ahulearotcmnsarfgtct,xviafitaeruelnirnhgactseceamtitcetsebscalacxryr,eplentsalhutgtaiaahynloSaga-hso,tgaceteeatnwsogveâ,onethrhehsritrnccShdaedeiLftpsidtpaedeoacy.esangnes’o,paadtsliwr,lohaBpadtelhagiafaralSrremmuec-entca-rcnletenailshreaoax.etthne,celdoo.edhlssuLsedtailsofsiihe’,gsowatn,pnstfnhaoeciegeirntmhllesleAsrhsbaduimwucuivyrCmprnlQhlppeeeeaIlwoiairtr-MosSvunreav-shksi–itioimseerejceAbs–rtrnvaeieRrbhsreihnssubacmttscfResyE.bsointoThigldoetlplm.leeiMyiualtaci’yryhlgnorncisehrdeeonirrpalueheryviogobsnfiSmoirndlmlsedsonnfytnrarpcSh,ssognHaoirCafgermsotsecnvoowfet,ueeroriutpaeAm,irTrvegcrntnoKionabpoEdegiersiashtcasstonealessseeiaainlsshigwdalm,nuit-rtrtslisathcesecnrtrsmeehsnIcAelneaaoytrtl.asauaeliei,taclrbsaradnTnhvVanJpmpsadlhevjilydskieuihiniesem.ecietporn’imsrensehssdMwotd&eifAtsduntgsenaea:s,ilöea-flcri.rcnlalycuhRI,mmma.llmaFPeeiiasLaBnfanVuangritnMpbtPegscordoneoagasdae–frdyCotiaivmenrutnndecearcioeenotesusSueryGudaanlsiatriysslsamMgcsnbmpsMssptsrltnoGooiadfhreesoicih,sa,asiedsou,denienlsetiMonmioilvnlniamonghEncsinedaccncme’–ggisdhiis’ueusegienurienmsc.retBesthepEicssaTdhrRSegtTvtaTnfMfal,oehaoruhoeogmaeloearrhhrmausopalrtrarerrcntmneuaeosnnheraaioeltreaoagtanBrsmiaoiatttoreLpnnlheidterigagoeTrksitcrasgieesrteelmtasZneeeaenscoo-stw,’.a,arsdlokae.ülhaetltoeofnlonteovnu.yrersmS’otoversioicsehcoiCsfkceunrmesoDtetrryaphi.oreostattpoyuhrRanvetilsiinaedrc,gnh WaEwdcmsoinuaeeniirdetnsnrahndtaoefcidopii-niuSeblotieoaplnvsbdivtaiaenlsiseelinouaanrapnoirp’lssiyna.fehfaodHrrtzhcoebbrrzeuisedaosarpcrad-tde,eromoiaefodtyreingidoinaomadcuusn.acpetseaoo, trnst, Swtmcaduwoieerctsiehnaotmpzdu:deoonpiranpwrtlzratoiszsoynl,ltiidtiimsnntansigneaoshkwslcsaeiciin-aktemdigrneeuptsesi.s,ltrytalyeeunsadaspdshtAeyyeclotvptouaesrc.dhyuAralidavvdere, Italian Lakes OAucttdivoiotires History 3Tuscan Wine Tour acTnhtyodhhaoeradauasvosrceegteaneduxnirrcindsadietmew–inghtaegloetoaiarrgcceiseahodtltulathyosisnedgcignriooffrte?ueehxnsHretite.servnWtireeitebrhs’ylsaet LT(aLrCtskCIiLahoipteomakameavsm2kwelnbpi,Ryoe:gpsoladCli’.siaTshuyti’tcsoShsrfasheMnstamdcehbdeeuuoLebteatiaorrbnininiuGginbets)alnigls;ghisrkecnoLmaqiaerttcsuojahhArcutoaehrsagyneeaeul.leir-oopltfTg,nssealauusatbhOhdthnn,srylkaualiedardpLlIieindretCtgrsneamssaldaoochcovegtalAuawkoatmaioMiirplanslnpsnoleeoodtenatadrdftdfdisyiol. 20 Epwpptbswaulrrokaiedaerthsyiahoitrisiglctneptisyhlrebng,aeoe-lmas,nweuisuwlsd.,niuarnHsgaidctfnceoenhigaed-rklsopaxasearurdtuenacgmmrsvryefaetedtomooainhnnuurctteadgrgntsurtiiit-avpr–nmatenisiaitomndayiurkeere IpehtstnccsvrhetteehaeernoiomrEdaaissnitupuettetmipeslaesrnrnelaeagoectcussnue.psie.ctnrdEixeoTtsctros,ovntclahtfercehhtovbieasarisfeeentanytaldcyhhtepwnhtteenietahlsdahnihedtsnteretrtroGasghrosaerinerrt–sullbyedodaslgaeferilisarohesclvki,ioenksuenatmsrdrhge SCahviaonutri’snpeicdtiunriensgqiune best experiences from each enable it all. for you. vineyards. country and its road trips. Trip 2 dCcehlelafCsrshcaeocmohkpouatpgonathesetTosaromsutnewdrhoilfe Portugal gBritain’s Wild Side 5World Heritage popping corks. PatoilcAogonnifinulrttcdaolietlraeruutdisisnnhdgoo.ttegaemueMislcrmsa’esermhtsraaamiaaemecrnnsaiediwtxdelssiisehyctmoarvuitfbneelauleatadplrmh,tytbcct.eesaauhaT.dmsklepheteatlepnesiedcvotsloaieu,peatgvnavisaindsatnctgliyeon-fg Austria 10 ABsgprlfoiroteratissoinh,ui’-snsalcbiyrleudfsuditveinewllgreisldedeietgNorhnautetrisoosnf al WCAoroelonnsdas;eearuscmlRaoasmsnidceV’cserorosns-a’s vRoving La Rioja Wine Wustrdmposaehhofinwtgiertisthrineenst-ig,dyknf,fosnrDwaruoueahrmwcsnkitelunslyeaebgeflpretaAaarh.rlenm-potrditofenyuwatecnhdhpaderisaetmstesnlk-seaaweislijsianeantsgneetirdc, country drive. 22 23 Parks. 9D-Day’s Beaches Trsmehhseeoomrenevoasert;neitahtalsselooemnfxgDupsl-NaDeiounarmymwsshatyanil.lnddy’s ReaetgeiroiensBaonddevginaes,yqaurdaslittyo xBeaAchleenstePjoort&ugaAll’sgasorvueth- h wThe Historic South the horizon. Spain Italy ccvoliilffalas-gbteassctukanennddesgrh,reooaffretessr,iunsrgef.aside BUcearrNiattEhasSeihndCi’psrOasS-lscctooiatnmynedBbhaNientnaehgp,feoos,ulrebaolnitmricue-ly VPboionratesDuytgosaausrlrd’usobTclViurmaaliinelllasevriyNyewocrostrhanenerdrn PdSaehaepnnesvadarsoiibinttgolaelensidgsthaettlto,eeoewrfi,osilcnsiuovaogdrispen,eshlwghysiossitdtnrhuiieecsensca-a,gobtnioevtadodekadrealaisderlnoistdfp.eol,af ins EERvpmierinctpuaeiinorsestsroaaennsoecdfrebv,theitrshetiuhRspposlumsauncabe-nkloiimfssteehdme usic, ~Grossglockner Road red wines. food and wine. Aessmnwwfeogiintaiuncgtnhesotebafgrai1iincdn9kdag3sc,i0ltyt–shivaioAisrtpuoireesousntanrgiddinaag3nlo6urpe. Italian Lakes Varenna, Lago di Como 11 historic drive. 21 Trip Highlights The best Inspiration Pick out Europe by Region Choose experiences and the road the trips that best suit where to begin your road-trip adventure. trips to take you there. your style. 2 ON THE ROAD 40 amazing road trips – Inspirational images, local knowledge, special detours, easy-to-read colour maps, expert advice and ways to link different trips together. ITALY 6 WONDERS OF ANCIENT SICILY 98km to Adda IMAGESEF/SHUTTERSTOCK © 37 PaOrrcoobRieegViaolnteallleindeesgili a Modica ]# Locarno ITALY 2 THE GRACEFUL ITALIAN LAKES Gravedona #\\ Colico Mfwiugoulndutpispoaoifilosogrptnilrndtta-heyeserggehsdiszsieecce.datmenzail.taheTtani’adcomBetemh:isitktdrsupttaoehorebiritsaaraeseeeihaiostcpusnrvdewohiukshanggtieUmeiaonnlehlnorsongnidrbe,lrktgtfeieiduethcelgtdcsaheeeiihehceittlsrpesdedoesonto-aylcaew--tymrtthoreasroeanvapyeerawesl-ea,rnsti-ot- #\\ Ascona BremboCassarate #\\ bdG1ws2p2eliaifprbool5d.h(ulOvSoea3ilteraaoc0uCenieglhs0cofavrnaccu-nintrtapopeiwoenhesl1daetigdum,lnratni9raubesMtGiqessoeClin0tgod&aramtpnoucuoimoaa2arocodt3lgertrsUoannlaaehriohm.silcst3jaqspgsnttdmye,saoaro0stt,euipksiwoirroAu,aop-btcUreh6euotlipbpahcateiron.d(lemgaCs3aasCuolasrar;th)0prstsbiohgowrhebd.hsspoeemrcayiid.teeaoshmeg.nhroaAroImlg8agselad)gewantiiSa,jrraidosavwstemdmaaaerne,eemsnticwitd-,elttvhdaeyhiabdeaeec-geruset SWITZERLAND verna built over it. 4 p99 E35 ‚ TtthwheeisStDySr1aiv1s5ey,»owuhHcicelohasdbeebicnaocomkneoNsnotqotuoi,te A2Olona BARRY WINIKER/GETTY IMAGES © 40km away. ANDY CHRISTIANI / GETTY IMAGES © ¸0 GFMalesco SS337 LCaogmo doi R \\# Rezzonico #\\ L(2Me6go0nn9otmnee) 95 FalmSVSea6n3ll1teaC\\#annobina 0¸ ¸0¸0 Á9Melezzo SS340dir # À8 #VNaalPzGairorcnaonaldee Cannobio 3 Menaggio\\# SS340 38Geneva to Zürich 2 TIthaeliaGnraLcaekfeusl LLauggoandoi \\#8 Varenna Pio Cadenabbia#\\ Bellagio Fhh(IgohscoLsarrloalahvmaaisdlkeennltaeeiddokadtyfsMhonbsasLlaNapeitaeaglnaolgtnrgdtplhooidiukoseooderlirmHneeiienaoncosC)gnledlfltoayhnRameownaenefodoottdmptuohs(oardaPLhefalnraaelmfiilcknlabtnleeo-icsemeesvetaCnisveieouoccsesftmerss,yDutts.thaoasiheAa)getrletenssedBda,ILrtitoan,aoaagrwwnglrritiotdooahshsmtneiMaAtldeoegrlaiapeaasutgksonhbclgefprieo,aesiuontsnelhrcaitereereinr 8À # #SS34 forested slopes. Luino Tremezzo \\#7 #\\6 BeRregPgaaimrocnaoaslcehe \\# Enna Lenno #\\ À8MLearggoozdzio Verbania SS583 \\# Ghiffa SBaoPntaaGrncroiactoo 8À # ¸0SS34 #]2 River Sesia MB(1i3os2bn5itnemo) R SS583 Breggia Sa(M1n6o8Pn5rtimme )o 0¸SS33 9Á 0¸ À8Baveno\\# Pa\\#llanza Laveno \\# SP394dir H# # lL À88À 8Àp46M(Mo14Rtot9an1rmtoen)eStresa ParCcaomFRipeoogriidoeniale A2 R SS340 a trip ]#1 ]# Lecco Ctshpoanintnete-acttkintehgsleiyndogoutastsbhceretonwutesgehanniSdtwsaietwnzeiogrrlmladna-ftdai’cms thoweuoasrbmtilgaognuends,ttachiiintsitetorsriooinc. cities, # #Lda'Ogrota SP1var \\# \\#MaLgaggioore Cernobbio Torno À8Orta San #\\ \\#Ranco LMaognoadtei SS394 Varese LAalgseordioi PLuasgioandio LAangnoondei RNBirasateburbrvaiaale \\# Brunate ]#4 Malnate Olgiate ]#5 Como SaAnlmSaelvnantoore \\# Comasco #\\ \\# #\\ Solbiate SS342 0¸Giulio #\\ Arona PardcdoeilARPpeiingaienotnoaale SS342 Bergamo 9 0¸ #E62 TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS ¸0 ¸0 ¸0¸0 KmA26 E35 481 KM / 300 MILES A8/26 LOMBARDY A2 481 km 0 km ZCwüuitrlhtiucarhaplolysvt-iibnrdaunsttcriitayl GREAT FOR… ¸0A26 0¸A8 0¸A4 GCOoeldsnmTeovowapnolgitraancecigtyalaonred edge PIEDMONT Legnano #\\ BJ cg WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A A9A BEST TIME TO GO Rho ]# GDRUENACTATNRGIPARWOOD, Laliangthdetasaupntrduinmwgne, as, wuthmheemrnaetrrhee WRITER best. BCb17eeatllrhlllaaoctIIeosInaoItb’ksuewrtlhylai,ef,weni,nhatehmtnheeeitosf Ticino GF1 0¸A4 ¸0A50 0¸Milan SmanooaNTriratefcnboecrhonvAiswiohlmetepdytguaoasraagsrteb’ershipdnnoogoPmeeyileaaatnoacaonsaltmgrgetmrttsdamiarsofatcmbcovoezasaauerofrilookn.npllybtlam’eTdgesairerehernteiCaScashanetney’oarsigbgstrdsrpfuiaaarssrptrauedcoroehteraonuaiuseecultqfrslnoaynsaauGedorelnPeblrgm-uxediatuessp’heilvtttlgaekeaterwhtcaenirmttbhenduetlbaaoiedsntero?,ser cBwBi€mCneaotaowewa2dcnahnoiulprdwl0lnottaiendPtr-p.t.rd;wM5oitashsieieagh0lnmstoapntaadar/eltrlhzeiuar–h1userez1eblra0mnudtoce0oceo;/ncdgetieMcradvh(tichnar,ho%r-iaoiweOreisP.lndlma9lddrocIora0awaeeenetw€ouf3l)mednaaaaf1sl2aa.w5d-dtiiszs3ttt5yd/uv;hzate.td3h8el3heIotrthess.ra0/h0s5retoocibvv5spa0halphuapeeuimc,t5epilgllrei6ldt,iloahs;hntwt.eg #^ A51 e# 20 km experience. 0¸TRIP HIGHLIGHT 0 10 miles 1 Stresa 0 TtLRooeipgfMt:h:tLtPo:EoCorrykhtxiaineaRgsnaefdradoltiehmS,eCaThnoriarlGlsptoioaonpVrigittaiotocow,rrMnoiosoosEdftmiEhcraaeicnTeuyerrleh,eNnoiatno Sea MGhétbt1tbobpaha8yhoouuosre5retudryqe5rheiErauesaaetrgut,ethnaseamLrayhidoaiolanneiiiwapbgrlsyedcCeiaouddoceayoicafeMlntmlydpsihito.samrheosgAcogtarakebvhagtuateateinieerndtodrldaelnldreaeytcedenotlw,aedkde- A4 Bern A Lucerne I ESSENTIAL saIaisrdnleTeadhtnvhtedihelsselaBti(arsIos.rproraalotelatmrBcaeeocasrtn.rioIosmnoselae) pQitTRseauirilhtbaasiua,decnnreirnai,g, ct(V(wlhPSueeipirdctoaGhtinnugaOnerglesloleRdelGreuaiMtaabntloealdde)nse.rJ-siyo, )sé 3iPhOttdwa;0ahceanl5htae9vd)tz5aaiuisizlm6tllneotir;s/-sceBtwC5chlao.huwwh3lrimdlk0wridionept.aimt€hesmshr1oseia2ealmeooe/b‘nEc€i6phdoae.2nh-o5rMst0rge0rtto.ara,l5emiroio0ss–nsfer-,/chme’1l .0id;- LINK A AA8 PHOTO gardens. YOUR Mtf1Pia6oaamBtndlhyair-flzecoitzaoroeolnas1atMc8rtmhmataehosdwot-rrc,seseepIsronh(oo%stemutlrae0rean3y.nt2Tat3ih-ce, 5 p53 TRIP A Fribourg The verdant Emmental 1 Grand Tour | The Swiss Alps rpeagsitoonraelxpeemrfpelicteiosn. From Stresa take From Verbania the A8 to Milan (Milano) hgoerueataddtoenosortrsto:hfp-teeharefsegtcrftoepar etthaeks, SAtLhtnueaconpepsreenernefre-hpacoaitrrnLncoaarkbaelme acar; K BCEUSLTTUFROER from where you can gorgeous glaciers, 402 km commence your own verdant valleys. fdAA1 Zürich’s mighty Grand Tour of Italy. Grindelwald Hiking at the foot of the Eiger museums and are relentless nightlife intoxicating. 541 45 44 Pick the right route with Get around easily with Discover even more with inspirational images and colour maps and route detours, walking routes and directions in easy stages. key trip highlights. ways to link your trips. 3 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS Everything you need for your Europe road trip Expert advice, practical info, language tips and more. less than €10 El Prat Airport petrol € (Barcelona) gasolina f Daily Costs €€ €10–20 Major car-rental wppaainr·radabs·rbcirsreeaees·nsmas ga·so·lee·na Budget: Less than €80 €€€ concessions at NEED TO Climate » Dorm bed: €20–30 more than Rental cars KNOW €20 agencies have arrival terminals. CURRENCY »hoDtoelu)b: €le5r5o–o6m5i(nmhoorsetainl (Mbuaddrgiedt Be6mv.u1ein0sruyaetmsevsCteotoots1ot.t0h1€05e5acm.m9ei0nn; tiuatrt’ense.ds3r0furotnom40 Euro (€) # SGaOnMtiaagy–oSdeepCompostela and Barcelona) Te1m1vr.aei3nri8uynpt3sem0sC;tmoiotsirttnea€uakt4ece.shs102tfhr5aoentmocde35rn.u04tnr2ea. mto Language »deSledlífa-c(adtaeirlyinsgeatnmdelnuun)c:h€m10e–n1ú5 TreaaxcihstChoescte€n2tr5etion €3300mainndutes. LANGUAGE BGaOrcyeelaorn-raound » Use museum and gallery ‘free Sleeping bbaatteterírayf Spanish (Castilian). Also # admission’ afternoons Mobile Phones (Cell ba·ta·ree·a Catalan, Basque and M» Didourablnegroeo:m€i8n0m-id1r7an5ge engine Galician. MGOadMriadr–May, Sep & Oct hotel: €65–140 Casas oRrufarramlehsouCsoems ffyorvihlliaregein Tpsi‘lslahtaisobperpotlrespeods.rdn.oIa’Nfontryuohueontnsuiecnocetrdiuahedinctaaaidatdostknieosthdhoupiefrswrmoc‘ailontloihtl’ohosiuinrtutnoarS‘aclemipcetdayisdlpnl.siaoriososnuhn’snusaidonnnucd(Alniiannkdtyedisoaatinhlssuegtcvhue‘iaceird.hy‘Ie’nnsisini’omaitunshirl‘aeiopfrnStrthoicooenontyuth’t.nwaiYsctehoiaorueltfoimtoEchnnhae)ggyi,rluirasEiildhsns,eogsysltniorssoouhttnr’ilcegcl osbelysuetenrhuodtanellstedryt-dehl-,re-ly motor m # » Lunch and/or dinner in local houses mo·tor VISAS the countryside. GsaoStteroanaSmyelsclerhfoaoneflrlnayumtgpnieoeotnnmotacrb9loeie0tuqirenusdstiarorneyifedseEse(fU)dno. orat # VGaOleynecaira-round restaurant: €20–40 HthoatshtaavleesenSsimuiptelerogoumesst.houses headlight Schengen visa. faro m # SGeOvOillcet–Apr PaccoacnrovamedrmtoerodedmsatoSiontnaatsoetfeftrueinnedsineadncadsotlleds, fa·ro tyre rueda f rwe·da mansions. » Car rental: per day from €25 PbaesnicsgióunesItnheoxupseenss,oivfete, enxwtriethmely T»€Bo1aDp4roc0ueEablonnlenddar:uoapoMnm(do€tir2nhe0et0otBphian-aleeMnnadarid€chrs1oi)dt7e, l5: shared bathrooms. Phones) C¿Paunedyeoeuscprlibeiarlsoe, write iptwdeo·dwe nes?·kree·beer·lo asiento de asp·eas··ygreaonon··teroeee·dn·edyaos IHheatedniadno accident. eakte·t·hneeee··ddeono·toen » Fine dining for lunch and Pcporriiscvteaotcefaabteadgtohourrboieloesmrinoidonimchaiwgtehitthsheeason: LaEpwovuhicatroaiholnalpmeSbesIlaaeM,nnbayucanatNndradodcrrAseatunhansroAbettermwaculeoiisdarmeiencdlpaymainntooibbrillee por favor? por fa·vor seguridad un dinner: €150–250 Japanese systems. SPANISH BASICS child seat para niños accidente. DWMraiylrdcmltiomtohaohtteotsusmummmeresr,sc, oclodldwwinitnetresrs BARCELONA ELSEWHERE Cold climate Hello. Hola. o·la C¿(eManenelloymopauupeasd)he?oinwdicmare (onm(teheneleolmpmwaaep·p·d)a?e)een·dee·kar diesel gasóleo ga·so·le·o INmneececeeásnditicoaou/mna/.eumcn/hafanic.| nmee·t·hkae··nseeee··tkoo/oaon/oo·na Goodbye. a·dyos FUEL How are you? Adiós. ke tal EMERGENCIES hmpseeeelrtmcvrhoiecaltenisctationcmgaagesscacoásoloninliicanoera kas·ko A¿Hreaytchaerrriel bcicyicclleitnag? pathasi k?a·reel bee·thee·kle·ta Petrol stations (usually Fine, thanks. ¿Qué tal? byen gra·syas me·ka·nee·ko I¿dsHetabhyiceaicprleaertbcaaiscm?yiecnletoparkinadgiea?b·peaer··tkhae·em·kyleen·t·atos ofEopxuepnnedc2ta4tloohnopguarmys)€ajc1oa.3rn5hbitgeoh€w1a.y8s0. »(luDxouurbioleusrosotamtei-nopwanreaddohrotel): & MADRID Excuse me. Bien, gracias. per·don so·ko·ro ga·so·lee·na per litre. €120–200 Perdón. lo syen·to ga·so·lee·ne·ra Sorry. Lo siento. RENTAL CARS WH»iAhgcehconmSetmoaosdGoaotnion(Jbuonok–sAouutga,npd uprbicleiscinhcoreliadseabyysu)p to 50%. less than less than Internet Access see Help! ¡Socorro! Auto Jardim (www. € €75 €65 WaInnit-dercinasefaetvscaa(ialfaenbsdlaeirsienursmauroaes.lltylofrdegei)n.gs Yes. Sí. autojardim.com) no dakyw/ahno·tuork?wes·ta Hertz (www.hertz.com) €€ €75– €65–140 No. No. por fa·vor IE’smtolyopsetr.dido/a. es·toy per·dee·do/a (m/f) H¿Couwánmtouccuehsitsa it per dee·a/o·ra por Holiday Autos (www. 200 Por favor. gra·syas día/hora? por holidayautos.com) Please. Gracias. Pepecar (www.pepecar.com) » Low season in parts of inland Spain. more humid in coastal Eating more Thank you. ON THE ROAD I¿sSethviasat…heporroeasdtato …? skea·vrae·ate…·rapor es·ta » Expect warm, dry and sunny weather; €€€ more than carretera? IMPORTANT NUMBERS Tapas Bar Tapas and than €140 You’re De nada. de na·da I’d like to Quisiera kael·ek·esey·ela·rra… Signs Europe-wide emergencies areas. drinks;open longer hours than €200 Money welcome. hire a … alquilar … oon to·do· Stop (%112) Tboshrfoieamngmdeeyoeobsxuitttrrcoamorcncoavrnseeehndyiiietnisncctaianwrsdtaeh,ywoetfifotoahnrm te·re·no (¿PH(uPoeodwroclauopánanrgtco)atrCieaamqnupío?I)park(pphwoeerr·kdewo?aan·p·taor·tkyaerma··pkoe)e Stop Give Way International access code S»»hALoogcuoaollddfeetsirmtiv(eaMtlsoactrraa–nvMesel:anmdyi,lpdrS,icceelepsasr&owaerOianctght.e)r and fewer crowds. restaurants. emergency. MMeyllnaammo …e is … me lya·mo … 4WD un todo- Ceda el Paso No Entry (%00) Mbf(rMurtAeeaoosTlanumeu2sMyvsat%aeceslclnda)ryr)CetjtfoeahdosanryacirrotdmAhtwsa,TadibnaCrtMisuodghirpeltdcdsrolruaa(emsaassybuwrháietcotithtnwhuiccecgnia.atodTrmhssdhd1Vose.ri5nasrce%ewaay,niasls terreno oboe·en·asee·kle·ta Prohibido Entrance Country code (%34) Rraucsitoincepsla(claergseertvaipnags). oon ko·che Acceso Taberna Arriving in Spain abroad. W¿¿CChóómamtoo’ssteeylllolaamumraanUs?astmede?? ko·mo se llyyaa··mmaaso(oi·nsft)e (pol) bicycle una oo·na mo·to TElhceocchaershe ahsa abvreorikaedon doewl kno·(cahte …). a·ve·rya·do Toll tapas and Barajas Airport (Madrid) 437 ko·mo te bicicleta (en …). (en …) se a Peaje One Way for Dirección Única Freeway Exit L»»oCMwoillddStienemacespneotrnraatlu(SNrpeosaivinn–;ArFaniednbailn)utchíaeannodrtthhaenMdendoitrethrrwaenseta.n coast. Panadería Bakery; good car un coche Vía Acceso ParkingA pastries and coffee. D¿¿HHoaabyblolaausinisngplgélesé?as?k Englisaah··bb?llaaseeenen·g·lgelses(p(ionlf)) motorcycle una moto Aparcamiento No Parking RaagierepnnotcraitelascthaaarrvrseivMdaleatsjeokrrsmcinainrta-hrlees.ntal ITehnagvoeuan pinacthtayzroe. . ten·go oon peen·cha·tho Prohibido Aparcar VoridneortbeyctaheWginlaesbs.ar where you » This is high season in ski resorts. CtoegrovfeocresrníaackBseearnhdadllr;athftebpelearce INdooennt’itenudnod. erstand. no en·tyen·do Want More? IM’veeheruqnueoduadtoosfinpetrol. me e ke·da·do seen » Many hotels are closed in beach areas gasolina. ga·so·lee·na but elsewhere prices M€mit5’eisnat3unr0todetsro&ufr4nob0emuvmse6ire.ny0su5tCaveoemsstttotooa1tr1h0o.e3u0nadm; FaPonnlarddninhteh-atd’ensemdSpytpahpathlnsarihnsaohsgpeuPs.ahl,ogrcaenhseienelcybfokporloomakun.ateYtLitooo.ucnn’oellmly . plummet. (cerveza). DIRECTIONS W¿Dhóendree’hsaay petrol statidogoann·?s·od·eleaei·onoe··nraa W¿Dhóendree’esst…á?…? gasolinera? una MspaecriiaslqisuinegirinasEeaatfeoroyd. centre. don·de es·ta … Price categories indicate the Taxis Cost €30 and reach the W¿Chuaálte’ss ltahdeireacdcdiórne?ss? kwal es la dee·rek·syon cost of a main course: centre in 20 minutes. 439 436 438
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd EUROPE’S BEST TRIPS 40 AMAZING ROAD TRIPS This edition written and researched by Belinda Dixon, Isabel Albiston, Oliver Berry, Stuart Butler, Kerry Christiani, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Peter Dragicevich, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Catherine Le Nevez, Sally O’Brien, Josephine Quintero, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Sainsbury, Andy Symington, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Nicola Williams, Neil Wilson
SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK Top Tips History & Essential PLAN YOUR TRIP Culture Photo Link Family Walking Welcome to Europe.......................... 7 Your Trips Tour Europe Map....................................... 8 Tips from Food & Europe Highlights............................ 10 Locals Drink 5 Eating If You Like....................................... 20 Trip Europe by Region............................ 22 Detour 4Outdoors Sleeping % Telephone i Internet s Swimming Number Access Pool h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly a Air- Selection Conditioning MAP LEGEND ON THE ROAD RRoouutteess TTrripipss ITALY................................. 25 TTrripipRRoouuttee TrTiprip Numbers TTrripipDDeettoouurr 1 Numbers 1 Grand Tour................. 12–14 Days 29 FPTLWTLPSFWriornareioerilnameklilelcwmkklleewwkoaeawRdanraaRdyroyadTyyoyTyuarurtirptieype #9 TrTipriSptSotpop 2 WWalkailnkigntgotuorur 2 The Graceful Italian place-STeecrotniadrayry Lakes...................5–7 Days 43 TLearntieary TrTipriDp eDteotuorur LUanseealed Road 3 Tuscan Wine HPÙ[i9go7hpwuUalaSyCCtaaNiRoppaoiintttiaauollnt(eaNlaMHtiwoaynrakl)ers Tour..........................4 Days 55 UPnlsaeza/leMdaRlload PSlatezpa/sMall 4 A malfi STtuepnsnel Coast........................7 Days 65 holderTPuendneesltrian 5 World Heritage VÓU5 US (InStteartset/aPteroHvwinyce) Wonders................14 Days 75 dk44 CaCliftoyr/nLiarSgteaTteowHnwy 6 W onders of Ancient Town/Village Sicily............... 12–14 Days 89 Hydrography 7 Italian PeOdevestrrpiaasns AreasRiver/Creek Riviera.....................4 Days 101 OWvearlkpaTsrsack/Path InBteeramchittent River Walk Track/Path SwCaempet/eMryangrove Boundaries WIDCnarPFCtayneoae(t/raeCrrmSmeklrhsaeirttltittse/etrinyatn(LO)atkheer) BoundaIrnitersnational InStteartnea/tPioronvailnce mapSCtalitffe/Province Cliff GlRaecsieerrvation Urban Area PHoypdurloaCgtIRnairioptvaeeintprram/hlCi(ytNrteeaentkitoRniavle)r Areas BeSapcohrtsground (TCCCSDWSoiatwtarwpayaynait/nt/taemeLa/Slr/alVapPril/gltrlM/aeogvaTiennogcwreno)ve TransFP(CCpCoaeeCAPohrrmmaiaFekrrrrbupsieetkslntottetieeniricaCtrrguyynal)a(rO/r ther) ReTsrearinv/aRtiaoinlway TransporInttermittent Lake AGirlpaociretr HighwPCFaHuaayinrbgkMilhceinuwaCglaaraykrr/eMrasrker UrTbranmArea Sportsground Train/Railway Tram Underground Note: NoTt arall isnymSbtaoltsiodnisplayed above appear on the maps in this book
CONTENTS FRANCE........................... 117 GREAT BRITAIN............... 203 8 Essential f The Best of France....................21 Days 121 Britain ...................21 Days 207 9 D-Day’s g Britain’s Wild Beaches...................3 Days 133 Side........................21 Days 221 a Atlantic to h The Historic Med........................10 Days 143 South.. ................9–11 Days 235 b The i Classic Pyrenees.................7 Days 153 Lakes.......................5 Days 247 c Riviera j R oyal Highlands Crossing..................4 Days 163 & Cairngorms..... 4–5 Days 261 d C hampagne k Great Taster.......................3 Days 175 Glen..................... 2–3 Days 271 e C hâteaux of the l West Wales: Swansea to Loire.........................5 Days 185 St Davids.................4 Days 279 Ireland Great p297 Britain p203 Germany p475 France Austria Switzerland p117 p555 p525 Portugal Italy p445 p25 Spain p369 3
Contents cont. IRELAND.......................... 297 PORTUGAL....................... 445 m Iconic w Douro Valley Ireland.....................7 Days 301 Vineyard Trails....5–7 Days 449 n T he Long Way x Alentejo & Algarve Round.....................14 Days 315 Beaches.............. 4–6 Days 459 o R ing of GERMANY........................ 475 Kerry........................4 Days 329 y Romantic p The North in a Rhine....................5–7 Days 479 Nutshell.................10 Days 341 z The Romantic q Musical Road.......................10 Days 491 Landscapes.............5 Days 353 { German Fairy SPAIN.............................. 369 Tale Road.................5 Days 505 r Mediterranean SWITZERLAND................ 525 Meander .................7 Days 373 | The Swiss s Costa del Sol Beyond the Alps..........................7 Days 529 Beaches.............. 3–4 Days 389 } Geneva to t N orthern Spain Zürich......................7 Days 541 Pilgrimage...........5–7 Days 399 AUSTRIA.......................... 555 u Historic Castilla y León........7 Days 415 ~ Grossglockner Road.....................5–7 Days 559 v Roving La Rioja Wine Region....... 2–4 Days 427 ¤ Along the Danube................ 2–4 Days 569 Switzerland Engelberg KAROLINARYSAVA/SHUTTERSTOCK © 4
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Italy Duomo, Florence 6
DIRIYE AMEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © WELCOME TO EUROPE Europe has an embarrassment of riches. To incomparable art and architecture, add a vivid past. To spectacular scenery and vibrant cities, add the finest food and wine. It’s a place that helps you do and be what you’ve always wanted. Hike mountain passes. Savour wine beside sun-ripened vines. Tour palazzi and pueblos. Linger over lunch-time people watching. Feel you belong. These riches are best by far discovered by car. And the countless stops we’ve crafted into 40 road trips are your key to unlocking those experiences. Grip the wheel in white-knuckle mountain routes. Cruise along coast roads. Drive historical timelines. Trace gourmet and vineyard trails. Trips packed with culture, cities, history, mountains, food, beaches, wine and art – they’re all waiting to be discovered and our routes will guide you every stop of the way. 7
44 #^ 8 444 EUROPE 444OSLO #_ HIGHLIGHTS#_STOCKHOLM 25 Giant’s Causeway 4444N O R W AY Legends abound around this unique geological marvel. SCOTTISH 19 Scottish Highlands RĪGA #_ #^©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd HIGHLANDS #^ Klaipėda ^# Offers imposing mountains, „ emerald green glades and glinting lochs. Spey ^# Aberdeen SWEDEN oselle S C OT LAN D Glasgow #_EDINBURGH ^# GIANT'S 34Derry/LondondeCrrAyU#^SEW„AY castle-Suptoonne-Thyennege COPENHAGEN _# RomKaanltiincinRghriande^# 17BELFAST #_ DENMARK Carlisle Tmheedmievaajelsvtii#^lclaGrgivedesar, ńvwisninkedysarpdasst ^# Mysterious and compelling and castle-capped cliffs. NORTHERN14 447 77444477444444444 8LimoCApGsauhetalsaeârtlcinwetceCetr^#akasIeao#^^#t.yRmiurokExuedsLoWDireAfo#^UvayNtaQtBhalelDuef:Lrpo#_iIfrlAmNLoetIRorabrpCesEdieserAuLrserrALPyRee#^NisslDv#^ytD:SteImw#^oFTrR:OyFpoeNtou_#hnL^#EotOn^#HhlSBIeERBtrNsEE„-iiGe^#rSNV^#mTEuL(AtPLHGce^#-iL^#AoLEn#^eL^#LrôMEgdCNtAYHhssA^#o„RNAmNa_#tC#^NmCotEDoaHiNTuvAnuLe]#EEorelgtOnIe)Leunphh^#u^#nNr^#sasSxçtwDemhoBiLOeni]#ncoRoe„iNhOrrUiereLSlsPUéRS.NAaeXEARnAiEEmLIMsSnTMSs#]StBHM_#Bw^#E#^TaOLEeE_#rRGCnrNRURopeI]#IaUDRTLtDnMtAGYAecijMyr_#oNdR#]nDDaO#^MüRmMSHsS^#AsItSNNe„raETal^#daIsCor#^bb#^raFoM^#HGfrmrBuüVaaaErrcA-mnMig#^^#eMR^#nkDkmSabezHMaf#_iUDtunnueaiuaZnrAnrnLntgtEeuotN-l^#MgbivBbpYeaeeEEuzrrrRnitfgi#^L#^uc^#IrhINtnDn#_rsSebsa#^^#rdlD^#uzerEbCcLSanPkZuu#_iznUErc#^zBgCPzPcOsLHeRoiWnIatAcCpAieerUihrnGisOooSVis:sdfU#^cTsItrtEiłBReEhcPa^#xNIaer#_^#owAyntNw,ezosdnoA#_u.ra^#aldńvBZO’e^#saRsHBaelAt#^ansUUSrTsdeKNaŁWLDeIgvOóGrnSAAeaadVtA#_L#^PrikRAźa_#RsAEólSKYzVwSIAeAATgWmegaliths laden with myths andP O LA N D a Oder Mura 444„#\\ _#
_# D u 444: #\\ Bourges _# BERN „ SWISS ALPS LJUBLJANA Osijek 31 „ 4444 4„ 4„4 „ALPvPA#_IoeBSoniCrrBr:attooOoegÉLr^#v:NaR^#^#uvee^#i#^o#^ñiodrPrai^#raDOaaFLs#^oRciaRnueT:::::#^BCeír#^nRUoroaGewLiG:::aGsroiuuAAny^#ntujTa:::::::g.OeeaLcRaMLrColoadíAdoW::::::EoéOVmiNaAaraTviTiN:::::nidn^#alidIlaeCejabaodudCoco::::::o#^olMluiBi::::dcRSnAuíta:::::rDo_#rAgny#^#^RDlto:::bIausDBane::::rcidlo^#ZLeb:eaaStarBerR::::oPao^#oLgc^#AcrSS::AaBhodB#^aeIrieaRze:::sNnblyPcaIlaeOaaaou::#^yJ\\#sfRmPAxtía^#::::oi#^upVá\\#GElanP::oablLanreriuoT::moannoAnLoc::ueNgiAalVeoD::ésV#\\uz#]#_OèEVsGraeRTLeolaleLRf::r^#LnonCAoAcdBFtilF:^#aeeeaR#]rrPM:rm]#rAcPaaaoenelNlnmlrdloBGptoCe-anMoiraglEcaufdLnaeadyeardu#^#]:osAneRcMeGnvhEiiô#^eglDnlnneIeTTeo#]]#oIEvSnsauRESRlAoWAnCNI#]TaT^#EAunZ_#AAo^#nrIENjTiseMaRLnAstAcLLOaKAcIAENiNLoNSiDAg^##^PS#^uGCeoraMieOan#^inloaBCTanoarFlgeLo^#nOlPgiRtaen^#o^#ErraiNRuCOgTE^#ViMraie_#Ee^#MSnsI_#AitATcAeNeRMA^#NI^#SACLNaPLLYaAR#_pFOOa#^mnIillVjeeCc#^epEsroOkNom#^AnabI#^SAaoPaT_#soCstZaCoSeAStRnAHaGpO^#z^#REDnlaARBRiAzutTOECaJbISABErEro#^NGoV#^IOvBOAnV^#a&i_#I#^rkNiA ère Río Jú „ALGARVE H:u#^:elv:aS^#:eviRlíloeCG^#óenridl ob^#^#a:JGaréan:nada : :: BEACHES : #^: AAmstuanlfniinCgocaosastt_#linVeAoLf vLeErTticTaAl : ^# : Murcia landscapes and chic resort towns. Fa:ro 37 Swiss Alps : Cád:iz #^ : ^# Málaga ^# Sky-piercing mountains, Alpine 4 meadows and chocolate-box #^ Gibraltar Almería villages. 33 Algarve Beaches TUNISIA Fine beaches, world-class 2 Italian Lakes ALGERIA 1 Florence syuorufrintgasatnedbusdeMsaO.foRoOdCtoOtempt Destination of choice for Boasts priceless masterpieces Goethe, Hemingway and and Renaissance architecture. e# 0 200 km George Clooney. 0 100 miles 9
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Europe’s best sights and experiences, and the road trips that will take you there. EUROPE HIGHLIGHTS Italian Lakes Italy’s northern lakes are simply sublime. The most picturesque and least visited is Lago di Como (Lake Como); a highlight of Trip 2: The Graceful Italian Lakes, a scenic jaunt around Lakes Maggiore, Orta and Como. Set in the shadow of the Rhaetian Alps, Lago di Como’s banks are speckled with Liberty-style villas and fabulous landscaped gardens that burst into blushing colour in April and May. Trip 2 10
IRYNA1/SHUTTERSTOCK © Italian Lakes Varenna, Lago di Como 11
HIGHLIGHTS Scottish Highlands Urquhart Castle Scottish Paris The Amalfi Highlands Coast What is there to say Scotland’s wild about the City of Light The Amalfi Coast is places abound in that hasn’t been said a Italy’s most dazzling breathtaking vistas: thousand times before? seafront stretch. Its imposing mountains, Quite simply, this is one coastal road – detailed emerald green glades, of the world’s essential in Trip 4: The Amalfi glinting lochs – the cities: sexy, suave and Coast – curves sinuously, scenery here is truly sophisticated. There’s a linking steeply stacked awe-inspiring. Drive lifetime of experiences towns and rocky inlets. right into the views on here, from the treasures All around, cliffs sheer Trip 19: Royal Highlands of the Louvre to the down into sparkling blue & Cairngorms, which cafes of Montmartre waters, lemons grow on delivers castles, peaks – encounter them on hillside terraces, and and wildlife galore – and Trip 8: Essential France, towering fichi d’India the chance to explore the which steers you all the (prickly pears) guard Royal family’s summer way from the chic capital silent mountain paths. holiday haunts. to the glistening Med. Trip 4 Trip j Trip 8 12
NITSAWAN KATERATTANAKUL/SHUTTERSTOCK © GRIMPLET/SHUTTERSTOCK © Châteaux of the Loire Château de Chambord BEST ROADS FOR DRIVING Châteaux of the Loire SS163 The ‘Nastro Azzurro’ weaves along the For sky’s-the-limit precipitous Amalfi Coast. Trip 4 extravagance, don’t miss Trip 14: Châteaux of Col d’Aubisque A route through the craggy the Loire. Constructed by France’s aristocratic Pyrenees; more like flying than driving. Trip b elite between the 15th and 17th centuries, these A939 Scottish Highlands Motor beside ski lavish mansions were designed to show off slopes at rollercoaster Lecht Pass. Trip j their owners’ wealth – something they manage The São Vicente Coast Road Cliff tops en route to achieve in spectacular fashion. Chambord is to Europe’s southwestern-most tip. Trip x the jewel in the crown, but on this trip you’ll see Silvretta High Alpine Road Brave 34 white- plenty of sparkling gems. knuckle switchbacks 2500m high in the Austrian Trip e Alps. Trip ~ 13
HIGHLIGHTS Stonehenge 14
VICTOR MASCHEK/SHUTTERSTOCK © Stonehenge Mysterious and compelling, Stonehenge is Great Britain’s most iconic ancient site. People have been drawn to this myth-laden ring of bluestones for the last 5000 years, and we still don’t know quite why it was built. Come up with your own theories while gazing at massive megaliths on Trip 17: The Historic South, a voyage which crosses the country via a centuries-long timeline through a captivating past. Trips fh BEST SIPS Castello di Verrazzano Sample Chianti Classico and olive oil at this ancient Italian castle. Trip 3 Épernay Explore bottle- packed cellars in the French town dubbed the capitale du champagne. Trip d Rioja Trek Tour a vineyard; sup in a bodega; make your own wine. Trip v Quinta do Crasto Spectacular, terraced vineyards on a ridge above the Río Douro. Trip w Engelszell Visit a 13th-century abbey to taste monk-made cheese and beer. Trip ¤ 15
RTARN/SHUTTERSTOCK © HIGHLIGHTS Swiss Alps View of the Matterhorn from Zermatt 16
ALBERTO LOYO/SHUTTERSTOCK © La Rioja Hotel Marqués de Riscal Swiss Alps Florence La Rioja Wine Country You’d think after From Brunelleschi’s motoring through 537km red-capped Duomo to La Rioja is the sort of of mind-blowing Alpine Michelangelo’s David place where you could scenery on Trip 37: The and Botticelli’s The Birth spend weeks searching Swiss Alps that you had of Venus, Florence boasts out the finest drops. seen it all. Wrong. After priceless masterpieces Bodegas offering wine a succession of dramatic and a historic centre that tastings and villages that green peaks, Alpine looks much as it did in shelter wine museums lakes, glacial ravines Renaissance times. Art are the mainstays. Aside and other hallucinatory aside, the city is perfect from scenery and fine natural landscapes, for al fresco dining and quaffs, you’ll find plenty you pull into your final wine drinking. And it’s of surprises (such as a destination: Zermatt, a only part of Trip 5: World Frank Gehry–designed highly desirable Alpine Heritage Wonders – an masterpiece in a tiny resort built around epic exploration of Italy’s village) on Trip 31: the incomperable finest historic cities: Roving La Rioja Wine Matterhorn. Venice, Siena, Pisa and Region. Rome. Trip | Trip v Trip 135 17
HIGHLIGHTS Algarve Beaches The Giant’s Causeway Beach-lovers have much to celebrate The grand geological flourish of the on a drive along Portugal’s southern Giant’s Causeway is Northern Ireland’s coast. Sandy islands, cliffs and shore most popular attraction and one of the set the stage for memorable backroad world’s most startling natural wonders. explorations on Trip 33: Alentejo & Here, you can clamber over some of Algarve Beaches. After a day spent the 40,000 unique hexagonal basalt surfing or frolicking in the sea, you can columns that trail off into the sea. roll up to a beautifully sited restaurant Discover the rich legends that surround for a seafood feast overlooking the them on Trip 23: The Long Way Round; crashing waves. as you circumnavigate enchanting Ireland’s entire shore. Trip x Trips np 18
STEFVAL/SHUTTERSTOCK © (left) Algarve beaches Alvor, near Portimão; (below) Rhine Valley Ehrenfels Castle, near Rüdesheim DMITRY EAGLE ORLOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © BEST CITIES Romantic Rhine London Theatre, history, art, food: The Rhine has long mesmerised artists, Britain’s capital has them all. Trips fh as is illustrated by the 19th-century paintings in Koblenz on Trip 34: Rome Unique, exquisite, romantic; the Romantic Rhine. From Düsseldorf one-time capital of the world remains and Cologne, the majestic river snakes through churning whirlpools, medieval unmissable. Trips 15 villages, vineyards and castle-capped cliffs. Your trail mirrors it, leading to Dublin Georgian charm in a vibrant, forests and fortresses, and to evenings contemporary city. Plus 1000-plus pubs. sipping rieslings under chestnut trees. Trips mn Trip y Barcelona Playful, historic and flush with unique art. The Spanish city of your dreams. Trip r 19
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd AGNIESZKA SKALSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © IF YOU LIKE Wine tasting Douro Valley Architecture Great Views Art Boasting an unparalleled Awe-inspiring mountains, Renaissance glories, architectural legacy, sun-kissed shores, majestic Impressionist Europe is home to some river valleys, vine-etched masterpieces, modernist of the world’s most hills – Europe can claim marvels, landmark celebrated masterpieces superb landscapes linked museums – Europe’s in building design. by ribboning roads. These astonishing artistic Romanesque cathedrals, are truly unforgettable legacy is guaranteed to baroque palaces, drives. linger long in the memory Georgian cities, half- after you get home. timbered cottages, ancient 4Amalfi Coast Italy’s From Michelangelo to monuments, cutting-edge Picasso, Europe is a sheer creations – the wealth of most celebrated shore is a indulgence for art-lovers buildings arrayed here will classic Mediterranean pin- and a feast for the eyes. be a memorable part of up – simply sublime views. your trip. 1Grand Tour Take in jRoyal Highlands & eChâteaux of the Loire Leonardo’s The Last Supper, Cairngorms A sweep of Botticelli’s The Birth of Resplendent châteaux line Venus, Michelangelo’s David the banks of the Loire, each majestic mountains and and so much more. one more extravagant than pine forests encircles the the last. Queen’s Scottish summer rMediterranean home. hThe Historic South Meander See artwork oRing of Kerry Virtually Three of England’s most by Spanish greats, from spectacular cathedrals, every corner on this iconic Picasso in Malaga to Catalan plus London, and Bath’s Irish drive reveals a vista giants in Barcelona. Georgian city-scape. worthy of a postcard. }Geneva to Zürich Rich tNorthern Spain |The Swiss Alps All and diverse art collections Pilgrimage Showcasing the big names are here: dot this mountanous route Matterhorn, Eiger, Jungfrau, – encompassing everything a string of ancient chapels Schilthorn, Titlis and Mönch. from the Renaissance to medieval villages and some Cubism. stunning cathedrals. 20
IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Outdoor activities Alpine mountains along the Grossglockner Road Outdoor History Food & Wine Activities In Europe the past is ever With its superb produce Europe is an adventure present. Everywhere lies and culinary traditions, playground extraordinaire evidence of an enthralling Europe is a food- and with landscapes that make heritage stretching back wine-lover’s dream pretty much any activity thousands of years – from destination. Here you possible. Hike mountain stone circles and Greek can dine al fresco in a trails, surf gorgeous temples to battlefields, medieval piazza, feast on beaches, go summer-time chateaux, cathedrals and seafood in a historic port, skiing, windsurfing and castles. This history is a or nibble on cured meats white-water rafting – our seam stitched through the in a Spanish bodega. adrenaline-laced trips entire continent and our enable it all. trips unravel the stories 3Tuscan Wine Tour for you. gBritain’s Wild Side Savour fine dining in 5World Heritage Chianti’s picturesque A fresh-air fuelled tour of vineyards. Britain’s best wilderness Wonders Rome’s spots, including eight dChampagne Taster gloriously diverse National Colosseum and Verona’s Parks. Arena; a classic cross- Chefs cook up a storm while country drive. cellars echo to the sound of xAlentejo & Algarve popping corks. 9D-Day’s Beaches Beaches Portugal’s south- vRoving La Rioja Wine The events of D-Day still coast stunner, offering resonate along Normandy’s Region Bodegas, quality cliff-backed shores, seaside shores; the museums and villages and great surf. memorials explain why. eateries and vineyards to the horizon. ~Grossglockner Road hThe Historic South wDouro Valley A feat of 1930s Austrian Britain’s Stonehenge, engineering, this road UNESCO-city Bath, sublime Vineyard Trails Northern swings giddily around 36 cathedrals and Napoleonic- switchbacks – opening up era ships combine for a truly Portugal’s culinary corner mountain activities galore. historic drive. boasts sublime views and red wines. 21
EUROPE ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd BY REGION Ireland The emerald isle delivers picture-postcard views that are brooding, dramatic and delightful in turn. It’s a place to revel in scenery, history, music-filled pubs and the stillness of village life. These nine glorious countries Spain have dramatically different Passionate, sophisticated and characters – each as irresistible devoted to living the good life, and as exciting as the next. What Spain showcases sun-baked plains and glittering shores, it also to do and where do go? Here’s enables leisurely discoveries of your guide to getting the very heritage, food, wine and art. best experiences from each country and its road trips. Portugal Portugal’s mix of the medieval and the maritime makes touring a real treat. The legacy of a sometimes turbulent past includes medieval castles, vine- lined terraces and captivating cities. Meanwhile, the pounding Atlantic has sculpted a coast of glorious sandy bays. 22
Great Britain France From cliff-backed shores and France seduces with a somehow quaint villages, to historic familiar culture woven around monuments and wild, wild cafe terraces, village-square moors., Britain boasts everything markets and lace-curtained from Georgian architecture to bistros where the plat du jour is 21st-century art. chalked up outside. Here too find world-class art, architecture and delightfully scenic drives. Germany Here the majestic Rhine snakes through churning whirlpools, vast vineyards and medieval villages. And all around storybook castles crown jagged cliffs. Switzerland Switzerland is simply spectacular, with dazzling scenery at every turn: pristine lakes, lush meadows, snow-dusted Alps. Add cosmopolitan cities and you have a country making it easy to drive deep into its heart. Italy Austria Epicentre of the Roman White-knuckle Alpine passes Empire and birthplace of the usher in a wealth of adrenaline Renaissance, this sun-kissed sports, from year-round skiing virtuoso serves up sublime music, to windsurfing and white-water food and wine. rafting, while pretty castles and dense forests frame the majestic, mighty Danube. 23
24
Italy FEW COUNTRIES CAN RIVAL ITALY’S WEALTH OF RICHES. Its historic cities boast iconic monuments and masterpieces at every turn, its food is imitated the world over and its landscape is a majestic patchwork of snow- capped peaks, plunging coastlines, lakes and remote valleys. And with many thrilling roads to explore, it offers plenty of epic driving. The trips outlined in this section run the length of the country, leading from Alpine summits to southern volcanoes, and from hilltop towns in Tuscany to fishing villages on the Amalfi Coast. They take in heavyweight cities and little-known gems, and cover a wide range of experiences. So whether you want to tour gourmet towns, historic vineyards or idyllic coastlines, we have a route for you. Amalfi Coast Positano TSOMCHAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GERMANY # Italy AUSTRIA #^ Innsbruck 4444 444 444 44 44FGFG44 44GF4 4(SB4AM(3MW8ioVa8oR1on4n0IiRssnTc1mtotmetoZea)#^E)TARMVul^#LeearAsigrnLsgbNLioaaAaoD#]ncgnrsoeaditarir#]]#niao2C#]MoL#]mC#^ia1logaomonBoPd#]]#BieiarrMgceeaos#]nmc(d3Oize9aoLarRVnG0ta5laaegemrBrso#]do]#)oda#^nilzaT#]Ma5r(n]#a3ero3CmnR4#]oVPt3omaomallaaldd)ec#^ucadhaViioeLnJiUceBL#\\TJKa#^AvrGTvNauiRrrsAlniifioeej^#_#resSkteLaOVENIA #^ (M1C3ro1o4ncmtee) #^ Bologna Genoa GFFRANCE CROATIA Ventimiglia 7 R Florence SAN #_#\\ MARINO Ancona MONACO Pisa ]# #^ #^ MONACO FG3 Lago Trasimeno Montepulciano \\# #^ Ascoli AdSreiaatic Monte Amiata R 5 Perugia Piceno FG(1736m) #] Lago di Corno Grande Bolsena L'Aquila R(2912m) ]# ^# Viterbo R(M27o9n5tme A) maro FRANCE \\# Vieste ROME _# Frosinone R FGMo(9n4te9mCa)vo #] 1 Santa Foggia #] Bari Teresa di \\# Mt Vesuvius #^ Gallura FGVicoNIEasqcphuClieaaenpGSssraoiell#^eforR\\#n(d1oi24]#81Sma)lePrnoot^#en(M2z2oRa4n8temP)olTlianro]#anGtoallipL#\\oe#]lci ce ]# Olbia #] Sassari Nuoro #] Oristano ]# R Tyrrhenian Punta Sea La Marmora Iglesias (1834m) #] #^ Cosenza #] #] Crotone Cagliari ]# Vibo Valentia Messina ]# GFTrapani #^ Palermo Mt Etna Taormina #] (3340m) Marsala #\\ R Ionian Sea Pizzo R #\\ Carbonara MEDITERRANEAN #] Catania SEA 6 (1979m) #] Agrigento ]# ]# Syracuse Ragusa : :: e 00 150 mile3s00 km 26
FROG DARES/SHUTTERSTOCK © DON'T MISS Scrovegni Chapel See the Renaissance blossoming through the tears in Giotto’s moving frescoes for the Scrovegni Chapel on Trip 1 Sicily Noto Cathedral Montalcino 1 Grand Tour 12–14 Days Crowned by a 14th- The classic cultural tour – part pilgrimage, part century fort, this hilltop rite of passage. (p29) town produces one of Italy’s top red wines. 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes 5–7 Days Indulge yourself on Trip The destination of choice for Goethe, Hemingway and George Clooney. (p43) 3 3 Tuscan Wine Tour 4 Days Vietri sul Mare Red wine fuels this jaunt around historic Chianti vineyards and Tuscan cellars. (p55) Bring back a piece of the Amalfi Coast from 4 Amalfi Coast 7 Days this seaside centre, A stunning coastline of vertical landscapes and renowned for its bright- chic resort towns. (p65) hued ceramics, on Trip 5 World Heritage Wonders 14 Days 4 Discover the Unesco-listed treasures of Italy’s art cities. (p75) Noto 6 Wonders of Ancient Sicily 12–14 Days Stroll one of Italy’s Unearth Sicily’s ancient Greek temples, Byzantine most beautiful town treasures and bewitching baroque towns. (p89) centres, admiring golden baroque buildings in the 7 Italian Riviera 4 Days southern Sicilian sun on Seaside bastions, palm-fringed promenades, belle époque villas. (p101) Trip 6 27
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 uri 140 240 240 440 541 6 841 941
DAVID CLAPP/GETTY IMAGES © 1Grand Tour The gap-year journey of its day, the Grand Tour is a search for art and enlightenment, adventure and debauchery. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS lL Verona ##4 555 km 12–14 DAYS Venice 1390KM / Turin # Marvel at 865 MILES marble palaces # and gold mosaics GREAT FOR… ##6 710 km BH Florence Siena # Enjoy the BEST TIME TO GO world’s greatest Viterbo # Renaissance hits Spring (March to May) is perfect for urban ##8 sightseeing. Rome Km##9 I ESSENTIAL Catch up on PHOTO 2000 years of Naples Western history Ponder the fallen in Florence’s 1070 km Pompeii and the multicoloured, marble treasures they left behind duomo (cathedral). 1390 km K BEST FOR RLocmaetiIonnteCraioprtoiofnSdt ePteatielsr'tsoBgaoshiliecrae HISTORY Rome, the repository of over 2500 years of European history. 29
Aosta Varese #] #^ 0¸A26 VALLE Milan Ll ¸0D' AOSTA A4 #] #^ H# Novara Turin p32 # 0¸#^1 PIEDMONT ¸0A21 Tortona A ]# ]# Pi 1 Grand Tour Alessandria From the Savoy palaces of Turin and Leonardo’s Last ¸0 0¸E74 A7 Supper to the dubious drinking dens of Genoa and ¸0A26 the pleasure palaces of Rome, the Grand Tour is part scholar’s pilgrimage and part rite of passage. Cuneo Savona ##^2 Offering a chance to view some of the world’s #] Genoa greatest masterpieces and hear Vivaldi played on ]# Golfo di 18th-century cellos, it is a rollicking trip filled with FRANCE ¸0LIGURIA Genova La the sights, sounds and tastes that have shaped A8 European society for centuries. #]Imperia MONACO Ligurian Sea FRANCE Corsica MEDITERRANEAN SEA 1 Turin First they travelled Sassari SA through France before In his travel guide, Voy- crossing the Alps at Mt #] age through Italy (1670), Cenis and heading to travel writer and tutor Turin (Torino), where Like the Medicis in Richard Lassels advo- letters of introduction Florence (Firenze) and cated a grand cultural admitted them to the the Borghese in Rome tour of Europe, and in city’s agreeable Parisian- (Roma), Turin’s Savoy particular Italy, for young style social whirl. Turin’s princes had a penchant English aristocrats, dur- tree-lined boulevards for extravagant architec- ing which the study of still retain their elegant, ture and interior decor. classical antiquity and French feel and many You suspect they also the High Renaissance turn-of-the century cafes, pined for their hunting would ready them for such as Caffè San Carlo lodges in Chambéry, future influential roles (Piazza San Carlo 156; h8am- France, from where they shaping the political, eco- originated, as they nomic and social realities midnight Tue-Fri, to 1am Sat, of the day. to 9pm Mon), still serve Torinese hot chocolate beneath their gilded chandeliers. 30
LOMBARDY GLaarkdea VENETO ]#Treviso SLOVENIA #]Bergamo #^ Trieste 0¸]#Vicenza A4 an CROATIA ¸0#^ Brescia#] A4 Verona # #]#3 #^4 Venice Brenta ]# Padua Riviera ¸0¸0ona A1 Mantua 0¸A13 A21 ]# ]# #] #]Ferrara Piacenza Cremona ¸0A22 EMILIA- ROMAGNA #] Modena ##^5 Bologna #]Ravenna 0¸A14 ¸0a ITALY 1 Grand Tour A1 #] di Forlì ]# #]Rimini I## 0¸a La Spezia Lucca E45 #] SAN MARINO Pisa #] ^#6 Florence ^#Ancona Adriatic p114 Greve in Sea Livorno ]# \\# Chianti LE MARCHE ]#Arezzo Siena ]# Perugia TUSCANY ^# E78 3 E45 UMBRIA #]Grosseto BLoalgsoendai \\#Orvieto A1 0¸FG #0¸¸0 ¸0 0¸CE Ascoli Piceno #] SS4 Elba A24 ABRUZZO Viterbo #]7 ]# Pescara ^# ¸0L'Aquila A14 LAZIO ica Rome #8 MOLISE TyrrSheeanian I# #]Frosinone ]# Isernia Foggia ]# p112 ¸0A1 #] Benevento Latina ]# A16 CAMPANIA 100 km ¸0Caserta]# 50 miles mK #Naples ^#9 Pompeii e# 0 0 GF4 #\\ ]#Salerno SARDINIA ‚ invited André le Nôtre, LINK 4 Amalfi Coast Versailles landscaper, YOUR Play truant from to design the gardens TRIP high-minded museums of Palazzo Reale (www. and head south from ilpalazzorealeditorino.it; 3 Tuscan Wine Naples for the Blue Piazza Castello; adult/reduced Tour Ribbon drive on the €12/6, 1st Sun of month free; Amalfi Coast. h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) Linger in the bucolic in 1697. hills around Florence and enjoy fine gourmet 5 p40 dining and world- renowned wine-tasting. 31
ITALY 1 Grand Tour The Drive » The two-hour stalked by prostitutes streets in Europe. Visit and beggars, while the the finest of them, the (170km) drive to Genoa is all excessive shrewdness of Palazzo Spinola (www. on autostrada, the final stretch the Genovese banking palazzospinola.beniculturali. twisting through the mountains. families earned them a it; Piazza Superiore di Pellic- Leave Turin following signs for reputation, according to ceria 1; adult/reduced €4/2; the A55 (towards Alessandria), author Thomas Nugent, h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, which quickly merges with the as ‘a treacherous and from 1.30pm Sun) and the A21 passing through the pretty over-reaching set of Palazzo Reale (www. Piedmontese countryside. Just people’. palazzorealegenova.benicul before Alessandria turn south turali.it; Via Balbi 10; adult/ onto the A26 for Genoa/Livorno. And yet with tour- reduced €4/2; h9am-7pm ists and businessmen Tue-Sat, 1.30-7pm Sun). After 2 Genoa arriving from around the stop for sweets at Pietro world, Genoa was, and Romanengo fu Stefano Some travellers, shy of still is, a cosmopolitan (www.romanengo.com; Via crossing the Alps, might place. The Rolli Palaces, Soziglia 74r; h3.30-7.30pm arrive by boat in Genoa a collection of grand Mon, 9am-1pm & 3.15-7.15pm (Genova). Despite its mansions originally Tue-Sat). superb location, mild meant to host visiting microclimate and lush popes, dignitaries and 5 p40, p107 flora, the city had a royalty, made Via Balbi dubious reputation. Its and Strada Nuova (now The Drive » This 365km historic centre was a Via Giuseppe Garibaldi) warren of dark, insalubri- two of the most famous drive takes most of the day, ous caruggi (alleys), so stop for lunch in Cremona (p40). Although the drive is DETOUR: on autostrada, endless fields MILAN of corn line the route. Take the A7 north out of Genoa and at Start: 1 Turin (p30) Tortona exit onto the A21 around industrial Piacenza to Brescia. No Grand Tour would be complete without a detour At Brescia, change again onto up the A4 to Milan (Milano) to eyeball Leonardo da the A4 direct to Padua. Vinci’s iconic mural The Last Supper (Il Cenacolo; %02 9280 0360; www.cenacolovinciano.net; Piazza Santa 3 Padua Maria delle Grazie 2; adult/reduced €6.50/3.25; h8.15am- 7pm Tue-Sun; mCadorna). Advance booking is essential Bound for Venice (booking fee €1.50). (Venezia), Grand Tour- ists could hardly avoid From his Portrait of a Young Man (c 1486) to visiting Padua (Padova), portraits of Duke Ludovico Sforza’s beautiful although by the 18th mistresses, The Lady with the Ermine (c 1489) and century international La Belle Ferronière (c 1490), Leonardo transformed students no longer the rigid conventions of portraiture to depict highly flocked to Palazzo del Bò individual images imbued with naturalism. Then (%049 827 30 47; www.unipd. he evolved concepts of idealised proportions and it/en/guidedtours; Via VIII the depiction of internal emotional states through Febbraio; adult/reduced €7/2; physical dynamism (St Jerome), all of which cohere hsee website for tour times), in the masterly Il Cenacolo.. the Venetian Republic’s radical university where Copernicus and Galileo taught classes. 32
You can visit the uni- TRIP HIGHLIGHT Sun winter; fSan Marco), ITALY 1 Grand Tour versity’s claustrophobic, Venice was considered an wooden anatomy theatre 4 Venice exciting den of debauch- (the first in the world), ery. Venetian wives were although it’s no longer de Top of the itinerary, Ven- notorious for keeping rigueur to witness dissec- ice at last! Then, as now, handsome escorts (cicis- tions on the average tour- La Serenissima’s watery beo), courtesans held ist itinerary. Afterwards landscape captured the powerful positions at don’t forget to pay your imagination of travellers. court and much time was respects to the skulls At Carnivale (www.carni- devoted to frequenting of noble professors who vale.venezia.it) in Febru- casinos and coffeehouses. donated themselves for ary numbers swelled Caffè Florian (%041 520 dissection because of to 30,000; now they 56 41; www.caffeflorian.com; the difficulty involved in number in the hundreds Piazza San Marco 56/59; drinks acquiring fresh corpses. of thousands. You cannot €10-25; h9am-midnight; Their skulls are lined up take your car onto the fSan Marco) still adheres in the graduation hall. lagoon islands so leave to rules established in it in a secure garage in the 1700s. Beyond the university Mestre, such as Garage the melancholy air of the Europa Mestre (%041 So do as the Venetians city did little to detain 95 92 02; www.garageeuro- would do: glide down the foreign visitors. Even pamestre.com; Corso del Grand Canal on the No Giotto’s spectacular Popolo 55, Mestre; per day €15; 1 Vaporetto (ticket €7.50) frescoes in the Cappella h8am-10pm), and hop on for an architectural tour degli Scrovegni (Scrovegni the train to Venice Santa of 50 palazzi (mansions), Chapel; %049 201 00 20; Lucia where water taxis gossip in the balconies www.cappelladegliscrovegni. connect to all the islands. of the Teatro La Fenice it; Piazza Eremitani 8; adult/ (%041 78 66 72, tours 041 reduced €13/6, night ticket Aside from the mind- 78 66 75; www.teatrolafenice. €8/6; h9am-7pm), where improving art in the it; Campo San Fantin 1965; advance reservations are theatre visits adult/reduced essential, were of limited Gallerie dell’Accademia €10/7, concert/opera tickets interest given medieval (%041 520 03 45; www. from €15/45; fSanta Maria art was out of fashion, gallerieaccademia.org; Campo dei Giglio), or listen for and only devout Catholics della Carità 1050; adult/ summer thunderstorms ventured to revere the reduced €10/8 plus supple- in Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, strange relics of Saint ment during special exhibitions, played by Interpreti Anthony in the Basilica first Sun of the month free; Veneziani (%041 277 05 di Sant’Antonio (Il Santo; h8.15am-2pm Mon, to 7.15pm 61; www.interpretiveneziani. %049 822 56 52; www.ba- Tue-Sun; fAccademia) and com; Chiesa San Vidal, Campo silicadelsanto.org; Piazza del extraordinary architec- di San Vidal 2862; adult/re- Santo; h6.20am-7.45pm Apr- tural masterpieces such duced €28/23; hdoors open Oct, to 6.45pm Nov-Mar). as the Palazzo Ducale, 8.30pm; fAccademia). the Campanile, Long- The Drive » Barely 40km hena’s Chiesa di Santa For more earthly Maria della Salute and pleasures take a tour of from Venice, the drive from the glittering domes of Venice’s centuries-old Padua is through featureless the Basilica di San Marco markets with a gourmet areas of light industry along the (St Mark’s Basilica; %041 270 food walk. A4 and then the A57. 83 11; www.basilicasan marco.it; Piazza San Marco; 5 4 p40, p87 h9.45am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun summer, to 4pm The Drive » Retrace your steps to Padua on the A57 and 33
DE AGOSTINI/A. DAGLI ORTI/GETTY IMAGES © DEA / G. CIGOLINI/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP PAULA HARDY, WRITER There’s almost no need to explain why the Grand Tour is a classic trip. It is the template for all modern travel itineraries, where for the first time people travelled for curiosity, pleasure and learning. Covering Italy’s show-stopping cities, it offers travellers a view of the country’s very best art, architecture and antiquities, while transporting them from alpine peaks to sun-struck southern shores. Top: Anatomy theatre, University of Padua Left: Hall of Mirrors, Palazzo Reale, Genoa Right: Teatro La Fenice, Venice
ITALY 1 Grand TourA4 and navigate around the ring road in the direction of Bologna JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © to pick up the A13 southwest for this short two-hour drive. After Padua the dual carriageway dashes through wide-open farmland and crosses the Po river, which forms the southern border of the Veneto. 5 Bologna Home to Europe’s oldest university (established in 1088) and once the stomping ground of Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch, Bologna had an enviable reputation for courtesy and culture. Its historic centre, complete with 20 soaring towers, is one of the best- preserved medieval cit- ies in the world. In the Basilica di San Petronio (www.basilicadisanpetronio.it; Piazza Maggiore; h7.45am- 2pm & 3-6pm), originally intended to dwarf St Pe- ter’s in Rome, Giovanni Cassini’s sundial (1655) proved the problems with the Julian calendar giving us the leap year, while Bolognesi stu- dents advanced human knowledge in obstetrics, natural science, zool- ogy and anthropology. You can peer at their strange model wax- works and studiously labelled collections in the Palazzo Poggi (www. museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it; Via Zamboni 33; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-1pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun). 35
ITALY 1 Grand Tour In art as in science, Maria del Fiore; www.oper- The Drive » The next 210km, the School of Bologna aduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del gave birth to the Car- Duomo; h10am-5pm Mon-Wed continuing south along the racci cousins Ludovico, & Fri, to 4pm Thu, to 4.45pm Sat, A1, travels through some of Agostino and Annibale, 1.30-4.45pm Sun) to Michel- Italy’s most lovely scenery. who were among the angelo’s and Botticelli’s Just southwest of Florence the founding fathers of Ital- greatest hits, David and vineyards of Greve in Chianti ian baroque and were The Birth of Venus, in the harbour some great farmstays, deeply influenced by the while Arezzo is to the east. At Counter-Reformation. Galleria dell’Accademia Orvieto exit onto the SS71 and See their emotionally (%055 29 48 83; www. skirt Lago di Bolsena for the final charged blockbusters in firenzemusei.it; Via Ricasoli 60; 45km into Viterbo. the Pinacoteca Nazion- adult/reduced €8/4, incl tem- ale (www.pinacotecabologna. porary exhibition €12.50/6.25; 7 Viterbo beniculturali.it; Via delle Belle h8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) Arti 56; adult/reduced €4/2; and the Galleria degli From Florence the road h9am-1.30pm Tue & Wed, Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery; www. to Rome crossed the 2-7pm Thu-Sun). uffizi.beniculturali.it; Piazzale dreaded and pestilential degli Uffizi 6; adult/reduced campagna (countryside), 5 4 p41 €8/4, incl temporary exhibition a swampy, mosquito- €12.50/6.25; h8.15am- infested low-lying area. The Drive » Bologna sits at 6.50pm Tue-Sun), Florence, Unlike now, inns en route according to Unesco, con- were uncomfortable and the intersection of the A1, A13 tains the highest number hazardous, so travellers and A14. Navigate west out of of artistic masterpieces in hurried through Siena, the city, across the river Reno, the world. stocking up on wine for onto the A1. From here it’s a the rough road ahead. straight shot into Florence for Whereas Rome They also stopped briefly 100km, leaving the Po plains and Milan have torn in medieval Viterbo for behind you and entering the low themselves down and a quick douse in the hills of Emilia-Romagna and the been rebuilt many times, thermal springs at the forested valleys of Tuscany. incorporating a multitude Terme dei Papi (%0761 35 of architectural whims, 03 90; www.termedeipapi.it; TRIP HIGHLIGHT central Florence looks Strada Bagni 12; pool adult/child much as it did in 1550, €12/8, Sun €18/8; h9am-7pm 6 Florence with stone towers and Wed-Mon, plus 9pm-1am Sat), cypress-lined gardens. and a tour of the High Re- From Brunelleschi’s red- naissance spectacle that tiled dome atop Florence’s 5 4 p41, p63, p86 is the Villa Lante (%0761 Duomo (Cattedrale di Santa 28 80 08; Via Jacopo Barozzi 71; adult/reduced €5/2.50; TOP TIP: h8.30am-1hr before sunset JUMP THE QUEUE IN Tue-Sun). FLORENCE The Drive » Rejoin the A1 In July, August and other busy periods such as Easter, long queues are a fact of life at Florence’s key after a 28km drive along the museums. For a fee of €4 each, tickets to the Uffizi rural SS675. For the next 40km and Galleria dell’Accademia (where David lives) can the A1 descends slowly into be booked in advance. To organise your ticket, go to Lazio, criss-crossing the river www.firenzemusei.it or call Firenze Musei (%055 29 Tevere and keeping the ridge of 48 83; www.firenzemusei.it). the Apennines to the left as it darts through tunnels. At Fiano 36
Romano exit for Roma Nord TOP TIP: onto the A1dir for the final 20km ROME INFORMATION descent into the capital. LINE TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Comune di Roma (city council) runs a free ITALY 1 Grand Tour multilingual information line (%06 06 08; h9am- 8 Rome 9pm), providing information on culture, shows, hotels, transport etc. You can also book theatre, concert, In the 18th century Rome, exhibition and museum tickets on this number. The even in ruins, was still call centre, has staff who speak English, French, thought of as the august Arabic, German, Spanish, Italian and Chinese capital of the world. Here available from 4pm to 7pm. more than anywhere the Grand Tourist was his love poems and died at antique perfumery awakened to an interest of consumption. Officina Profumo Farma- in art and architecture, ceutica di Santa Maria although the Colosseum Although the Pantheon Novella (www.smnovella. (Colosseo; %06 3996 7700; (www.pantheonroma.com; Pi- it; Corso del Rinascimento 47; www.coopculture.it; Piazza h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; del Colosseo; adult/reduced azza della Rotonda; h8.30am- gCorso del Rinascimento). incl Roman Forum & Palatino €12/7.50; h8.30am-1hr before 7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; 5 4 p41, p86 sunset; mColosseo) was still filled with debris and the gLargo di Torre Argentina) The Drive » Past Rome the Palatine Hill was covered and Vatican Museums in gardens, its excavated (Musei Vaticani; %06 6988 landscape is hotter and drier, treasures slowly accu- trees give way to Mediterranean mulating in the world’s 4676; http://mv.vatican.va; shrubbery and the grass starts oldest national museum, to yellow. Beyond the vineyards the Capitoline Museums Viale Vaticano; adult/reduced of Frascati, just 20km south of (Musei Capitolini; %06 06 Rome, the A1 heads straight to 08; www.museicapitolini.org; €16/8, last Sun of month free; Naples (Napoli) for 225km, a Piazza del Campidoglio 1; adult/ two-hour drive that often takes reduced €12/10; h9.30am- h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am- much longer due to heavy traffic. 7.30pm, last admission 6.30pm; gPiazza Venezia). 12.30pm last Sun of month; TRIP HIGHLIGHT mOttaviano-San Pietro) were Arriving through the a must, most travellers 9 Naples Porta del Popolo, visitors preferred to socialise first spied the dome of St in the grounds of the Only the more adven- Peter’s (Basilica di San Pietro; Borghese Palace (%06 3 turous Grand Tourists www.vatican.va; St Peter’s Sq; 28 10; www.galleriaborghese. continued south to the h7am-7pm summer, to 6.30pm salacious city of Naples. winter; mOttaviano-San it; Piazzale del Museo Borghese At the time Mt Vesu- Pietro) before clattering vius glowed menacingly, along the corso to the 5; adult/reduced €11/6.50; erupting six times during customs house. Once the 18th century and eight done, they headed to h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; times in the 19th century. Piazza di Spagna, the gVia Pinciana). But Naples was the home city’s principal meeting of opera and commedia place where Keats penned Follow their example dell’arte (improvised and mix the choicest comedic satire), and sights with more venal pleasures such as fine dining at Open Colonna (%06 4782 2641; www. antonellocolonna.it; Via Milano 9a; meals €20-80; h12.30- 3.30pm Tue-Sun, 7-11.30pm Tue-Sat; a; gVia Nazionale) and souvenir shopping 37
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © singing lessons and seats at Teatro San Carlo (%081 ITALY 1 Grand Tour 797 23 31; www.teatrosancarlo. it; Via San Carlo 98; hbox office 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; gR2 to Via San Carlo) were obligatory. Then there were the myths of Virgil and Dante to explore at Lago d’Averno and Campi Flegrei (the Phlegrean Fields). After the discovery of Pompeii (%081 857 53 47; www.pompeiisites.org; entrances at Porta Marina, Pi- azza Esedra & Piazza Anfiteatro; adult/reduced €13/7.50, incl Herculaneum €22/12; h9am- 7.30pm summer, to 5pm winter) in 1748, the unfolding drama of a Roman town in its death throes drew throngs of visitors. Then, as now, it was the most popular tourist sight in Italy and its priceless mosaics, frescoes and colossal sculptures filled the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (%081 442 21 49; http://cir.campania.beniculturali. it/museoarcheologiconazionale; Piazza Museo Nazionale 19; adult/reduced €8/4; h9am- 7.30pm Wed-Mon; mMuseo, Piazza Cavour). 4 p41 38
Florence View of the red-tiled dome of the Duomo 39
Eating & Sleeping ITALY 1 Grand Tour Turin 1 Venice 4 6 Fiorio Cafe 5 Dalla Marisa Venetian $$ (Via Po 8; h8.30am-1am Tue-Sun) Garner (%041 72 02 11; Fondamenta di San Giobbe literary inspiration in Mark Twain’s old window 652b, Cannaregio; set menu lunch/dinner seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a €15/35; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-11pm Thu-Sat; cafe where 19th-century students once plotted fCrea) At this Cannaregio institution, you’ll revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly be seated where there’s room and get no played whist. The bittersweet hot chocolate menu – you’ll have whatever Marisa’s cooking. remains inspirational. And you’ll like it. Lunches are a bargain at €15 for a first, main, side, wine, water and coffee – Genoa 2 pace yourself through prawn risotto to finish 5 Trattoria della Raibetta Trattoria $$ with steak and grilled zucchini, or Marisa will (%010 246 88 77; www.trattoriadellaraibetta. jokingly scold you over coffee. it; Vico Caprettari 10-12; meals €35; hnoon- 2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun) Totally typica 5 Ristoteca Oniga Venetian $$ Genoese food can be found in the family-run joints hidden in the warren of streets near the (%041 522 44 10; www.oniga.it; Campo San cathedral. This, a snug trattoria with a low brick- vaulted ceiling, serves regional classics such Barnaba 2852; meals €19-35; hnoon-2.30pm as trofiette al pesto or octopus salad alongside excellent fresh fish. & 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon; W; fCa’ Rezzonico) Its menu peppered with organic ingredients, Oniga serves exemplary sarde in saor (sardines in tangy onion marinade), seasonal pastas and the odd Hungarian classic like goulash (a nod to former chef Annika Major). Oenophiles will appreciate the selection of 100-plus wines, handy for toasting to the €19 set lunch menu. Cremona 2 Grab a sunny spot in the campo, or get cosy in a wood-panelled corner. 5 La Sosta Osteria $$ 4 Ca’ Angeli Boutique Hotel $$ (%0372 45 66 56; www.osterialasosta.it; Via (%041 523 24 80; www.caangeli.it; Calle del Sicardo 9; meals €35-40; h12.15-2pm Tue-Sun, Traghetto de la Madoneta 1434, San Polo; d 7.15-10pm Tue-Sat) La Sosta is surrounded €95-225, ste from €200; aW; fSan Silvestro) by violin-makers’ workshops and is a suitably Murano glass chandeliers, a Louis XIV love-seat harmonious place to feast on regional delicacies and namesake 16th-century angels set a refined such as tortelli di zucca (pumpkin pasta parcels) tone at this restored, canalside palazzo. Guest and baked snails. The entrance is plastered with rooms are a picture with beamed ceilings, so many approving restaurant-guide stickers antique carpets and big bathrooms, while the that you can’t see through the glass. dining room looks out onto the Grand Canal. Breakfast includes organic products where possible. 40
Bologna 5 Rome 8 5 All’Osteria Bottega Osteria $$ 5 Necci Cafe $$ (%051 58 51 11; Via Santa Caterina 51; meals (%06 9760 1552; www.necci1924.com; Via €35-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat) Fanfulla da Lodi 68; dinner around €45, lunch At this osteria truly worthy of the name, owners mains around €8; h8am-2am; W; jVia Daniele and Valeria lavish attention on every Prenestina) Iconic Necci opened as a gelateria table between trips to the kitchen for plates of in 1924 and later became a favourite of director culatello di Zibello ham, tortellini in capon broth, Pier Paolo Pasolini. Good for a drink or a meal, pork shank in red wine reduction and other it serves up sophisticated Italian cooking to an ITALY 1 Grand Tour Slow Food delights. Desserts are homemade by eclectic crowd of all ages, with a lovely, leafy Valeria, from the ciambella (Romagnola ring- garden terrace (ideal for families). shaped cake) to fresh fruit sorbets. 5 Enoteca Regionale 4 Bologna nel Cuore B&B $$ Palatium Ristorante $$$ (%051 26 94 42; www.bolognanelcuore.it; Via (%06 6920 2132; Via Frattina 94; meals €55; Cesare Battisti 29; s €80-100, d €100-140, apt h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; gVia del €125-130; p aW) This centrally located, Corso) A rich showcase of regional bounty, run immaculate and well-loved B&B features a pair by the Lazio Regional Food Authority, this sleek of bright, high-ceilinged rooms with pretty tiled wine bar serves excellent local specialities, bathrooms and endless mod cons, plus two such as porchetta (pork roasted with herbs) comfortable, spacious apartments with kitchen or gnocchi alla Romana con crema da zucca and laundry facilities. Owner and art historian (potato dumplings Roman-style with cream Maria generously shares her knowledge of of pumpkin), as well as an impressive array of Bologna and serves breakfasts featuring jams Lazio wines (try lesser-known drops such as made with fruit picked near her childhood home Aleatico). in the Dolomites. 4 Hotel Scalinata di Spagna Hotel $$ Florence 6 (%06 6994 0896; www.hotelscalinata.com; Piazza della Trinità dei Monti 17; d €130-260; 5 I Due Fratellini Sandwiches $ a iW; mSpagna) Given its location – perched alongside the Spanish Steps – the (%055 239 60 96; www.iduefratellini.com; Via Scalinata is surprisingly modestly priced. An informal and friendly place, it’s something dei Cimatori 38r; panini €3; h10am-7pm) This of a warren, with a great roof terrace and low corridors leading off to smallish, old-fashioned hole-in-the-wall has been in business since yet romantic rooms. Book early for a room with a view. 1875. Wash panini down with a beaker of wine and leave the empties on the wooden shelf outside. 4 Palazzo Guadagni Hotel Hotel $$ Naples 9 (%055 265 83 76; www.palazzoguadagni.com; 4 Grand Hotel Vesuvio Hotel $$$ Piazza Santo Spirito 9; d €130-230; aW) This romantic hotel overlooking Florence’s liveliest (%081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope summertime square is legendary – Zeffirelli shot scenes from Tea with Mussolini here. 45; s/d €280/310; a iW; g128 to Via Housed in an artfully revamped Renaissance palace, it has 15 spacious if old-fashioned rooms Santa Lucia) Known for hosting legends – past and an impossibly romantic loggia terrace with wicker chairs and predictably dreamy views. guests include Rita Hayworth and Humphrey Bogart – this five-star heavyweight is a decadent melange of dripping chandeliers, period antiques and opulent rooms. Count your lucky stars while drinking a martini at the rooftop restaurant. 41
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 153 253 553 653 953
RENE HARTMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK © # The Graceful 2Italian Lakes Writers from Goethe to Hemingway have lavished praise on the Italian lakes, dramatically ringed by snow-powdered mountains and garlanded by grand villas and exotic, tropical flora. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 132 km 5–7 DAYS Bellagio 213KM / 132 MILES 36 km Bounded by classic Cannobio gardens brimming GREAT FOR… The prettiest medieval with camellias hamlet on Lake BHJ Maggiore ##6 BEST TIME TO GO #3# # Lecco April to June, when Baveno Laveno Km# the camellias are in lL## # full bloom. #1 #5# Bergamo I ESSENTIAL PHOTO The cascading gardens of Palazzo Borromeo. Stresa Como K BEST FOR A perfect setting for Silk souvenirs and GLAMOUR sunsets over the lakeside swimming Borromean palaces 113 km Touring Bellagio’s 0 km headland in a mahogany cigarette boat. LBoecllaatgioionTChaepgtiaorndednestaoiflsVtiollagMo helezried’Eril on the banks of Lago di Como 43
¸0Malesco SS337 ¸0Melezzo \\# Valle SS631 C\\#annobina Falmenta #Parco 2 The Graceful Nazionale Cannobio 3 Italian Lakes Val Grande À8SS34 Formed at the end of the last ice age, and a popular holiday spot since Roman times, the Italian lakes Lago di have an enduring natural beauty. At Lago Maggiore Mergozzo (Lake Maggiore) the palaces of the Borromean Verbania \\# Ghiffa Islands lie like a fleet of fine vessels in the gulf, their ¸0À8 # 9ÁBavenoSS\\#S3S334Pa#\\ll]#a2nza grand ballrooms and shell-encrusted grottoes once H# #lLp46 Laveno host to Napoleon and Princess Diana, while the siren call of Lago di Como (Lake Como) draws Arabian \\# sheikhs and Hollywood movie stars to its discreet forested slopes. ]#1 Stresa SP394dir R Pa Monte À8Mottarone (1491m) SP1var Lago Lago Maggiore d'Orta #\\ Lago di \\# Monate R Ranco N Orta San B Giulio #\\ Arona 0¸E62 ¸0A26 ¸0 ¸0A26 PIEDMONT TRIP HIGHLIGHT Bella took the name of River Sesia Carlo III’s wife, the 1 Stresa bella Isabella, in the 0¸A4 17th century, when its More than Como and centrepiece, Palazzo palace, the Galleria dei Garda, Lago Maggiore Borromeo (%0323 3 05 56; Quadri (Picture Gallery) has retained the belle www.isoleborromee.it; Isola is hung with Old Mas- époque air of its early ters, including Rubens, tourist heyday. Attracted Bella; adult/child €15/8.50, Titian, Veronese and José by the mild climate and Ribera (Spagnoletto). the easy access the new incl Palazzo Madre adult/child 1855 railway provided, By contrast, Isola the European haute €20.50/10; h9am-5.30pm Madre eschews ostenta- bourgeoisie flocked to mid-Mar–mid-Oct) was built. tion for a more romantic, buy and build grand lake- Construction of the villa familial atmosphere. side villas. and gardens was thought The 16th- to 18th- out in such a way that century Palazzo Madre The star attractions the island would have the are the Borromean appearance of a vessel, Islands (Isole Borromee) with the villa at the prow and their palaces. Isola and the gardens dripping down 10 tiered terraces at the rear. Inside the 44
R ]# Locarno ITALY 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes98km toGravedona \\# ColicoAdda \\# Ascona Parco Regionale degli BremboFG37 verna \\# Orobie Valtellinesi SWITZERLAND ‚ LCaogmo odi R Parco Monte Regionale ¸0¸0#3 E35Olona Cassarate Á9Rezzonico #\\ Legnone Bergamasche A2 SS340dir (2609m) Enna 8À4 Luino #8À##LLuaggoandoiTremCLaeeMdnzeenznnooaa#\\bgb#\\g7iSiaoS3\\##\\40 \\#6#\\8 Varenna Pio Almenno Bellagio San Salvatore a \\# \\# Parco 8ÀSS583 Botanico 0¸SS342 San Grato R Km#Bergamo Monte 9 San Primo (1685m) no Breggia Monte SS583 Bisbino 9Á ¸0dir (1325m) R SS340 À8 À8 0¸ 8À1var Parco Regionale A2 Campo dei Fiori #\\ SS394 Varese Cernobbio ]# Lecco \\# Torno di #]#4 Malnate Olgiate #\\# Brunate Lago di PLuasgioandoi ALangnoondei ate Riserva À8#\\ Comasco #\\ ]#5 Como Naturale Brabbia Solbiate #\\ Alserio SS342 Parco Regionale del Pineta 0¸di Apiano 0¸A8/26 E35 ¸0A2 LOMBARDY 0¸Legnano #\\ A8 ¸0A4 Rho ]# FG ¸0Ticino ¸0A50 A4 ¸0Milan ^# A51 1 e# 0 20 km 0 10 miles (%0323 3 05 56; www. LINK | The Swiss Alps isoleborromee.it; adult/child YOUR From Verbania €12/6.50, incl Palazzo Bor- TRIP head north-east for the romeo €20.50/10; h9am- greatest of the great 5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct) 1 Grand Tour outdoors: perfect peaks, includes a ‘horror’ thea- From Stresa take gorgeous glaciers, tre with a cast of devilish the A8 to Milan (Milano) verdant valleys. marionettes, while from where you can Chinese pheasants stalk commence your own the English gardens. Grand Tour of Italy. 5 p53 45
ITALY 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes The Drive » Leave Stresa dendrons and camellias, the foot of the Cannobino acres of tulip flowers and valley, the medieval ham- westwards on the Via Sempione hothouses full of equato- let of Cannobio is located (SS33) skirting the edge of rial lilies it is considered 5km from the Swiss the lake for this short, 14km one of Europe’s finest border. It is a dreamy drive. Pass through Baveno and botanical gardens. Dur- place. Piazza di Vittorio round the western edge of the ing the last week in April, Emanuele III, lined with gulf through the greenery of Settimana del Tulipano pastel-hued houses, is the the Fondo Toce natural reserve. takes place, when tens of location of a huge Sun- When you reach the junction thousands of tulips erupt day market that attracts with the SS34, turn right for in magnificent multi- visitors from Switzer- Verbania. coloured bloom. land. Right in the heart of the historic centre, in 2 Verbania 5 p53 a 15th-century monas- The Drive » Pick up the tery that later became The late-19th-century the home of the Pironi Villa Taranto (%0323 55 SS34 again, continuing in a family, is the atmospheric 66 67; www.villataranto.it; Via northeasterly direction out of Hotel Pironi (%0323 Vittorio Veneto 111, Verbania Verbania, through the suburbs 7 06 24; www.pironihotel. Pallanza; adult/reduced of Intra and Pallanza. Once €10/5.50; h8.30am-6.30pm you’ve cleared the town the it; Via Marconi 35; s €120, d mid-Mar–Sep, 9am-4pm 20km to Cannobio are the €150-195, tr €185-230; pW). Oct; p) sits just outside prettiest on the tour, shadowing Behind its thickset walls Verbania. In 1931, royal the lake shore the entire way are rooms with frescoed archer and Scottish cap- with views across the water. vaults, exposed timber tain Neil McEacharn beams and an assortment bought the villa from the TRIP HIGHLIGHT of tastefully decorated Savoy family and started bedrooms. to plant some 20,000 3 Cannobio species. With its rolling You can hire small hillsides of purple rhodo- Sheltered by a high sailing boats (€35/55 mountain and sitting at per one/two hours) and make an excursion to DETOUR: the ruined Castelli della LAGO D’ORTA Malpaga, located on two rocky islets to the south Start: 1 Stresa (p44) of Cannobio. In summer it is a favourite picnic Separated from Lake Maggiore by Monte Mottarone spot. (1492m) and enveloped by thick, dark-green woodlands, Lago d’Orta would make a perfect Alternatively, explore elopers’ getaway. At 13.4km long by 2.5km wide you the wild beauty of the can drive around the lake in a day. The focal point is Valle Cannobina up the the captivating medieval village of Orta San Giulio, SS631, following the which sits across from Isola San Giulio, where you’ll surging Torrente Can- spy the frescoed, 12th-century Basilica di San nobino stream into the Giulio (h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Apr-Sep, heavily wooded hillsides 9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Oct-Mar). Come to Malesco. Just 2.5km during the week and you’ll have the place largely to along the valley, in yourself. Sant’Anna, the torrent forces its way powerfully through a narrow gorge 46
known as the Orrido di LAGO MAGGIORE EXPRESS ITALY 2 The Graceful Italian Lakes Sant’Anna, crossed at its narrowest part by a The Lago Maggiore Express (%091 756 04 00; www. Romanesque bridge. lagomaggioreexpress.com; adult/child 1-day tour €34/17, 2-day tour €44/22) is a picturesque day trip you can do The Drive » The next part of without the car. It includes train travel from Arona or Stresa to Domodossola, from where you get the the journey involves retracing charming Centovalli train, crossing 100 valleys, to the previous 22km drive to Locarno in Switzerland and a ferry back to Stresa. Verbania-Intra to board the The two-day version is perhaps better value if you cross-lake ferry to Laveno. have the time. Ferries run every 20 minutes (one-way tickets cost €8 to rooms is the 1830 Salone II 54; h3-7.30pm Mon, 9am- €13 for car and driver). Once in Impero (Empire Hall), Laveno pick up the SP394dir with heavy chandeliers 12.30pm & 3-7.30pm Tue-Sat) and then the SP1var and SS394 and four canvases by you can buy top-quality for the 23km drive to Varese. David Simpson (born in scarves, ties and fabrics 1928). for a fraction of the cost 4 Varese you’d pay elsewhere. The Drive » The 28km drive Spread out to the south After wandering the of the Campo dei Fiori from Varese to Como isn’t medieval alleys of the hills, Varese is a prosper- terribly scenic, passing through historic centre take a ous provincial capital. a string of small towns and stroll along Passeggiata From the 17th century suburbs nestled in the wooded Lino Gelpi, where you onwards, Milanese nobles hills. The single-lane SS342 pass a series of water- began to build second passes through Malnate, front mansions, finally residences here, the Solbiate and Olgiate Comasco arriving at Villa Olmo most sumptuous being before reaching Como. (%031 25 23 52; Via Cantoni 1; the Palazzo Estense, completed in 1771 for TRIP HIGHLIGHT gardens free, villa entry varies Francesco III d’Este, the governor of the Duchy of 5 Como by exhibition; hvilla during Milan. Although you can- not visit the palace you Built on the wealth of exhibitions 9am-12.30pm are free to wander the its silk industry, Como vast Italianate gardens is an elegant town and & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, gardens (open 8am to dusk). remains Europe’s most important producer 7.30am-11pm summer, to 7pm To the north of the city of silk products. The winter). Set grandly facing sits another great villa, Museo della Seta (Silk the lake, this Como land- Villa Panza (%0332 28 Museum; %031 30 31 80; mark was built in 1728 39 60; www.fondoambiente. www.museosetacomo.com; Via by the Odescalchi family, it; Piazza Litta 1; adult/re- Castelnuovo 9; adult/reduced related to Pope Innocent duced €10/5; h10am-6pm €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, XI, and now hosts block- Tue-Sun), donated to the to 1pm Sat) unravels the buster art shows. During state in 1996. Part of town’s industrial history, the summer the Lido di the donation were 150 with early dyeing and Villa Olmo (%031 57 08 71; contemporary canvases printing equipment on www.lidovillaolmo.it; Via Cer- collected by Giuseppe display. At A Picci (%031 Panza di Biumo, mostly 26 13 69; Via Vittorio Emanuele nobbio 2; adult/reduced €8/4; by post-WWII American h9am-7pm mid-May–Sep), artists. One of the finest an open-air swimming pool and lakeside bar, is open to the public. 47
OLAF PROTZE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES © MATS SILVAN/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES © WHY THIS IS A GREAT TRIP PAULA HARDY, WRITER Despite centuries of fame as a tourist destination, there’s a timeless glamour to the Italian lakes, especially Lago di Como with its mountainous amphitheatre of snow- capped Alps. One of the best ways to see it is to walk the old mule tracks. There are some easy walks with fabulous views around Brunate. Pick up a map showing the trails from the Como tourist office. Top: Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio, Lago di Como Left: Market stalls in Cannobio, Lago Maggiore Right: The gardens of Villa Monastero, Varenna, Lago di Como
Search
Read the Text Version
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
- 7
- 8
- 9
- 10
- 11
- 12
- 13
- 14
- 15
- 16
- 17
- 18
- 19
- 20
- 21
- 22
- 23
- 24
- 25
- 26
- 27
- 28
- 29
- 30
- 31
- 32
- 33
- 34
- 35
- 36
- 37
- 38
- 39
- 40
- 41
- 42
- 43
- 44
- 45
- 46
- 47
- 48
- 49
- 50
- 51
- 52
- 53
- 54
- 55
- 56
- 57
- 58
- 59
- 60
- 61
- 62
- 63
- 64
- 65
- 66
- 67
- 68
- 69
- 70
- 71
- 72
- 73
- 74
- 75
- 76
- 77
- 78
- 79
- 80
- 81
- 82
- 83
- 84
- 85
- 86
- 87
- 88
- 89
- 90
- 91
- 92
- 93
- 94
- 95
- 96
- 97
- 98
- 99
- 100
- 101
- 102
- 103
- 104
- 105
- 106
- 107
- 108
- 109
- 110
- 111
- 112
- 113
- 114
- 115
- 116
- 117
- 118
- 119
- 120
- 121
- 122
- 123
- 124
- 125
- 126
- 127
- 128
- 129
- 130
- 131
- 132
- 133
- 134
- 135
- 136
- 137
- 138
- 139
- 140
- 141
- 142
- 143
- 144
- 145
- 146
- 147
- 148
- 149
- 150
- 151
- 152
- 153
- 154
- 155
- 156
- 157
- 158
- 159
- 160
- 161
- 162
- 163
- 164
- 165
- 166
- 167
- 168
- 169
- 170
- 171
- 172
- 173
- 174
- 175
- 176
- 177
- 178
- 179
- 180
- 181
- 182
- 183
- 184
- 185
- 186
- 187
- 188
- 189
- 190
- 191
- 192
- 193
- 194
- 195
- 196
- 197
- 198
- 199
- 200
- 201
- 202
- 203
- 204
- 205
- 206
- 207
- 208
- 209
- 210
- 211
- 212
- 213
- 214
- 215
- 216
- 217
- 218
- 219
- 220
- 221
- 222
- 223
- 224
- 225
- 226
- 227
- 228
- 229
- 230
- 231
- 232
- 233
- 234
- 235
- 236
- 237
- 238
- 239
- 240
- 241
- 242
- 243
- 244
- 245
- 246
- 247
- 248
- 249
- 250
- 251
- 252
- 253
- 254
- 255
- 256
- 257
- 258
- 259
- 260
- 261
- 262
- 263
- 264
- 265
- 266
- 267
- 268
- 269
- 270
- 271
- 272
- 273
- 274
- 275
- 276
- 277
- 278
- 279
- 280
- 281
- 282
- 283
- 284
- 285
- 286
- 287
- 288
- 289
- 290
- 291
- 292
- 293
- 294
- 295
- 296
- 297
- 298
- 299
- 300
- 301
- 302
- 303
- 304
- 305
- 306
- 307
- 308
- 309
- 310
- 311
- 312
- 313
- 314
- 315
- 316
- 317
- 318
- 319
- 320
- 321
- 322
- 323
- 324
- 325
- 326
- 327
- 328
- 329
- 330
- 331
- 332
- 333
- 334
- 335
- 336
- 337
- 338
- 339
- 340
- 341
- 342
- 343
- 344
- 345
- 346
- 347
- 348
- 349
- 350
- 351
- 352
- 353
- 354
- 355
- 356
- 357
- 358
- 359
- 360
- 361
- 362
- 363
- 364
- 365
- 366
- 367
- 368
- 369
- 370
- 371
- 372
- 373
- 374
- 375
- 376
- 377
- 378
- 379
- 380
- 381
- 382
- 383
- 384
- 385
- 386
- 387
- 388
- 389
- 390
- 391
- 392
- 393
- 394
- 395
- 396
- 397
- 398
- 399
- 400
- 401
- 402
- 403
- 404
- 405
- 406
- 407
- 408
- 409
- 410
- 411
- 412
- 413
- 414
- 415
- 416
- 417
- 418
- 419
- 420
- 421
- 422
- 423
- 424
- 425
- 426
- 427
- 428
- 429
- 430
- 431
- 432
- 433
- 434
- 435
- 436
- 437
- 438
- 439
- 440
- 441
- 442
- 443
- 444
- 445
- 446
- 447
- 448
- 449
- 450
- 451
- 452
- 453
- 454
- 455
- 456
- 457
- 458
- 459
- 460
- 461
- 462
- 463
- 464
- 465
- 466
- 467
- 468
- 469
- 470
- 471
- 472
- 473
- 474
- 475
- 476
- 477
- 478
- 479
- 480
- 481
- 482
- 483
- 484
- 485
- 486
- 487
- 488
- 489
- 490
- 491
- 492
- 493
- 494
- 495
- 496
- 497
- 498
- 499
- 500
- 501
- 502
- 503
- 504
- 505
- 506
- 507
- 508
- 509
- 510
- 511
- 512
- 513
- 514
- 515
- 516
- 517
- 518
- 519
- 520
- 521
- 522
- 523
- 524
- 525
- 526
- 527
- 528
- 529
- 530
- 531
- 532
- 533
- 534
- 535
- 536
- 537
- 538
- 539
- 540
- 541
- 542
- 543
- 544
- 545
- 546
- 547
- 548
- 549
- 550
- 551
- 552
- 553
- 554
- 555
- 556
- 557
- 558
- 559
- 560
- 561
- 562
- 563
- 564
- 565
- 566
- 567
- 568
- 569
- 570
- 571
- 572
- 573
- 574
- 575
- 576
- 577
- 578
- 579
- 580
- 581
- 582
- 583
- 584
- 585
- 586
- 587
- 588
- 589
- 590
- 591
- 592
- 593
- 594
- 595
- 596
- 597
- 598
- 599
- 1 - 50
- 51 - 100
- 101 - 150
- 151 - 200
- 201 - 250
- 251 - 300
- 301 - 350
- 351 - 400
- 401 - 450
- 451 - 500
- 501 - 550
- 551 - 599
Pages:
